1990 BMW 3 SERIES steering

13 Sump- removal and refitting
1
1Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
2Raise the front of the vehicle and place it
securely on axle stands.
3Remove the splash shields from under the
engine.
4Where applicable, disconnect the hoses
attached to the sump, and move them to one
side (see illustration).
5Where applicable, disconnect the oil level
sensor electrical connector (see illustration).
6Where applicable, remove the cast-
aluminium inspection cover that covers the
rear of the sump (see illustrations).
7On models with the M40 engine, unbolt and
remove the lower sump section and remove
the gasket (this is necessary for access to the
front mounting bolts). Unscrew the mounting
bolt, and pull the oil dipstick tube from the
sump (see illustrations). Check the condition
of the O-ring, and renew it if necessary.
8On models with the M40 engine, unscrew
the engine mounting nuts on both sides, then
attach a suitable hoist and lift the engine
sufficiently to allow the sump to be removed.
As a safety precaution, position axle stands or
blocks of wood beneath the engine.
9Remove the bolts securing the sump to theengine block and front/rear covers (see
illustration).
10Tap on the sump with a soft-faced
hammer to break the gasket seal, and lower
the sump from the engine.
11Using a gasket scraper, scrape off all
traces of the old gasket from the engine
block, the timing chain cover, the rear main oil
seal housing, and the sump. Be especially
careful not to nick or gouge the gasket sealing
surfaces of the timing chain cover and the oil
seal housing (they are made of aluminium,
and are quite soft).
12Clean the sump with solvent, and dry it
thoroughly. Check the gasket sealing surfaces
for distortion. Clean any residue from thegasket sealing surfaces on the sump and
engine with a rag dampened with a suitable
solvent.
13Before refitting the sump, apply a little
RTV-type gasket sealant to the area where the
front and rear covers join the cylinder block..
Lay a new sump gasket in place on the block.
If necessary, apply more sealant to hold the
gasket in place.
14Carefully position the sump in place (do
not disturb the gasket) and refit the bolts.
Start with the bolts closest to the centre of the
sump, and tighten them to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, using a criss-
cross pattern. Do not overtighten them, or
leakage may occur.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•15
13.5 If applicable, disconnect the oil level
sensor connector at the left side of the
engine, down near the power steering
pump mounting bracket13.4 If applicable, remove the nut securing
the power steering lines to the sump, and
move the lines to one side to allow you to
get at the sump bolts12.30e Angle-tightening the cylinder head
bolts (M40 engine)
13.9 Remove the bolts holding the sump
to the engine block and front cover, as
shown here on a six-cylinder engine13.7b Removing the oil dipstick tube
bracket mounting bolt
13.6b . . . remove the cover to get to all
the sump bolts13.6a Remove the four inspection cover
bolts (arrowed) and . . .
13.7a Main sump retaining bolts accessed
after removal of the lower sump section on
the M40 engine (engine on bench for clarity)
2A

detach them. Pieces of masking tape with
numbers or letters written on them work well
(see illustration).
6Label and detach all coolant hoses from the
engine (see Chapter 3).
7Remove the cooling fan, shroud and
radiator (see Chapter 3). Note:On the M40
engine, it is only necessary to remove the
cooling fan and shroud; however, prevent
damage to the radiator by covering it with a
piece of wood or cardboard.
8Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).
9Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail
(see Chapter 4).
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area, and don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance (such as a water heater or
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
immediately with soap and water. When
you perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses, and have a
fire extinguisher on hand.
10Disconnect the accelerator cable (see
Chapter 4) and kickdown linkage/speed
control cable (see Chapter 7B), if applicable,
from the engine.
11Where fitted, unbolt the power steering
pump (see Chapter 10). Leave the lines/hoses
attached, and make sure the pump is kept in
an upright position in the engine compartment
(use wire or rope to restrain it out of the way).
12On air-conditioned models, unbolt the
compressor (see Chapter 3) and set it aside,
or tie it up out of the way. Do not disconnect
the hoses.
13Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1) and
remove the filter. Remove the engine splash
guard from under the engine.
14Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5).15Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5).
This is not essential on all models, but it is a
good idea in any case to avoid accidental
damage.
16Unbolt the exhaust system from the
engine (see Chapter 4).
17If you’re working on a vehicle with an
automatic transmission, remove the torque
converter-to-driveplate fasteners (see
Chapter 7B). On the M40 engine, unbolt the
automatic transmission fluid coolant pipes
from the sump.
18Support the transmission with a jack.
Position a block of wood between them, to
prevent damage to the transmission. Special
transmission jacks with safety chains are
available - use one if possible.
19Attach an engine sling or a length of chain
to the lifting brackets on the engine. If the
brackets have been removed, the chain can
be bolted directly to the intake manifold studs,
but place a flat washer between the chain and
the nut, and tighten the nut all the way up to
the chain, to avoid the possibility of the studs
bending.
20Roll the hoist into position and connect
the sling to it. Take up the slack in the sling or
chain, but don’t lift the engine.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it’s supported only by a
hoist or other lifting device.
21On M10, M20 and M30 engines, remove
the transmission rear crossmember, and
slightly lower the rear of the transmission.
22Remove the transmission-to-engine block
bolts using a Torx socket. Note:The bolts
holding the bellhousing to the engine block
will require a swivel at the socket, and a very
long extension going back towards the
transmission.
23Remove the engine mounting-to-frame
bracket nuts. On the M40 engine, unbolt the
dampers from the mountings.
24Recheck to be sure nothing is still
connecting the engine to the transmission or
vehicle. Disconnect anything still remaining.
25Raise the engine slightly. Carefully work it
forwards to separate it from the transmission.
If you’re working on a vehicle with an
automatic transmission, you may find the
torque converter comes forward with theengine. If it stays with the transmission, leave
it, but you may find it easier to let it come
forward until it can be grasped easier and be
pulled from the crankshaft. Note:When
refitting the torque converter to the
transmission before the engine is refitted, be
sure to renew the transmission front pump
seal, which will probably be damaged when
the converter comes out with the engine.
Either method is acceptable, but be prepared
for some fluid to leak from the torque
converter if it comes out of the transmission. If
you’re working on a vehicle with a manual
transmission, draw the engine forwards until
the input shaft is completely disengaged from
the clutch. Slowly raise the engine out of the
engine compartment. Check carefully to make
sure everything is disconnected.
26Remove the flywheel/driveplate (and
where applicable, the engine rear plate), and
mount the engine on an engine stand (see
illustration). Do not turn the M40 engine
upside-down (see Cautionin Section 4).
Refitting
27Check the engine and transmission
mountings. If they’re worn or damaged, renew
them.
28Refit the flywheel or driveplate (see
Chapter 2A). If you’re working on a manual
transmission vehicle, refit the clutch and
pressure plate (see Chapter 7A). Now is a
good time to fit a new clutch.
29If the torque converter came out with the
engine during removal, carefully refit the
converter into the transmission before the
engine is lowered into the vehicle.
30Carefully lower the engine into the engine
compartment - make sure the engine
mountings line up.
31If you’re working on an automatic
transmission vehicle, guide the torque
converter onto the crankshaft following the
procedure outlined in Chapter 7B.
32If you’re working on a manual
transmission vehicle, apply a dab of high-
melting-point grease to the input shaft, and
guide it into the clutch and crankshaft pilot
bearing until the bellhousing is flush with the
engine block.. Do not allow the weight of the
engine to hang on the input shaft.
33Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts,
and tighten them securely.
Caution: DO NOT use the bolts to
force the transmission and
engine together.
34Refit the remaining components in the
reverse order of removal.
35Add coolant, oil, power steering and
transmission fluid as needed.
2B•6 General engine overhaul procedures
5.26 Removing the engine rear plate -
M40 engine5.5 Label each wire before unplugging the
connector
If there’s any possibility of
confusion, make a sketch of
the engine compartment and
clearly label the lines, hoses
and wires.
It may be necessary to rock
the engine slightly, or to turn
the crankshaft, to allow the
input shaft splines to mate
with the clutch plate

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front disc brake caliper
Caliper guide (mounting) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 35
Caliper bracket-to-strut housing bolts
3-Series, E30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Rear disc brake caliper
Caliper guide (mounting) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 35
Carrier-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Brake hose-to-caliper fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 17
Master cylinder-to-brake servo nuts
3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 29
Brake servo mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Hydraulic line-to-hydraulic brake servo threaded
fittings - 5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
9•2 Braking system
1 General information
All 3-Series models, and 5-Series E28 (“old-
shape”) models, are equipped with front disc
brakes and either rear drum or rear disc
brakes. 5-Series E34 (“new-shape”) models
have disc brakes front and rear. Front and
rear brakes are self-adjusting on all models.
Some later models are equipped with an Anti-
lock Braking System (ABS); this is described
in Section 2.
Hydraulic system
The hydraulic system consists of two
separate circuits. The master cylinder has
separate reservoirs for the two circuits; in the
event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic
circuit, the other circuit will remain operative.
Brake servo
The vacuum brake servo, utilising engine
manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure
to provide assistance to the hydraulically
operated brakes, is mounted on the bulkhead
in the engine compartment.
A hydraulic brake servo system is used on
5-Series E28 models. This system uses
hydraulic pressure from the power steering
pump to assist braking.
Handbrake
The handbrake operates the rear brakes,
and is cable-operated via a lever mounted in
the centre console. The handbrake assembly
on rear drum brake models is part of the rear
drum brake assembly, and is self-adjusting.
On rear disc brake models, the handbrake
uses a pair of brake shoes located inside the
centre portion of the rear brake disc, and is
manually-adjusted.
Brake pad wear warning system
The brake pad wear warning system is
linked to a red warning light in the instrumentcluster, which comes on when the brake pads
have worn down to the point at which they
require renewal. DO NOT ignore this reminder.
If you don’t renew the pads shortly after the
brake pad wear warning light comes on, the
brake discs will be damaged.
On some models, the brake pad wear
warning system also includes an early
warning light that comes on only when the
brake pedal is depressed, letting you know in
advance that the pads need to be renewed.
The wear sensor is attached to the brake
pads. The sensor is located at the left front
wheel; on some models, there is another
sensor at the right rear wheel. The wear
sensor is part of a closed circuit. Once the
pads wear down to the point at which they’re
flush with the sensor, the disc grinds away the
side of the sensor facing the disc. Thus, the
wire inside the sensor is broken, and the red
light on the instrument panel comes on.
Always check the sensor(s) when renewing
the pads. If you change the pads before the
warning light comes on, the sensor(s) may still
be good; once the light has come on, renew
the sensor.
Service
After completing any operation involving
dismantling of any part of the brake system,
always test drive the vehicle to check for
proper braking performance before resuming
normal driving. When testing the brakes, try to
select a clean, dry, road with no camber (ie as
flat as possible) and with no other traffic.
Conditions other than these can lead to
inaccurate test results.
Test the brakes at various speeds with both
light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle
should stop evenly, without pulling to one side
or the other. Avoid locking the brakes,
because this slides the tyres and diminishes
braking efficiency and control of the vehicle.
Tyres, vehicle load and wheel alignment are
factors which also affect braking
performance.
2 Anti-lock Braking system
(ABS)- general information
The Anti-lock Braking System is designed
to maintain vehicle control, directional stability
and optimum deceleration under severe
braking conditions on most road surfaces. It
does so by monitoring the rotational speed of
each wheel and controlling the brake line
pressure to each wheel during braking. This
prevents the wheels from locking up.
The ABS system has three main
components - the wheel speed sensors, the
electronic control unit, and the hydraulic
control unit. The sensors - one at each wheel
since 1985, but at both front wheels and one
at the rear differential on earlier models - send
a variable voltage signal to the control unit,
which monitors these signals, compares them
to its program information, and determines
whether a wheel is about to lock up. When a
wheel is about to lock up, the control unit
signals the hydraulic unit to reduce hydraulic
pressure (or not increase it further) at that
wheel’s brake caliper. Pressure modulation is
handled by electrically-operated solenoid
valves.
If a problem develops within the system, an
“ABS” warning light will glow on the
dashboard. Sometimes, a visual inspection of
the ABS system can help you locate the
problem. Carefully inspect the ABS wiring
harness. Pay particularly close attention to the
harness and connections near each wheel.
Look for signs of chafing and other damage
caused by incorrectly-routed wires. If a wheel
sensor harness is damaged, the sensor
should be renewed (the harness and sensor
are integral).
Warning: DO NOT try to repair an
ABS wiring harness. The ABS
system is sensitive to even the
smallest changes in resistance. Repairing
the harness could alter resistance values

the stop-light switch (see Section 13). Note:
On right-hand-drive models, the brake pedal
in on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and is
connected to the left-hand side by a cross-
shaft. The adjustment is carried out on the
pushrod at the left-hand side, but the
dimension is measured at the pedal on the
right-hand side.
14On 5-Series models, adjust the brake
pedal height and the stop-light switch (see
Section 13).
15Refit the master cylinder (see Section 7)
and attach the vacuum hose.
16Carefully test the operation of the brakes
before returning the vehicle to normal use
9 Hydraulic brake servo-
description, removal and
refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Description
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, a
hydraulic brake servo system is fitted. The
servo unit, located between the brake pedal
(left-hand-drive) or cross-shaft lever (right-
hand-drive) and the master cylinder, is
operated by hydraulic pressure generated by
the power steering pump. When the engine is
running, the power steering pump supplies
hydraulic pressure to a power flow regulator/
accumulator. The regulator/accumulator
stores and regulates the pressure to the
hydraulic brake servo. When you press the
brake pedal, the pressure in the servo helps
actuate the master cylinder, reducing pedal
effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo cannot be
overhauled; if it fails, a new one must be fitted.
Testing the system requires special tools, so
even fault diagnosis is beyond the scope of
the home mechanic. If the system fails, take it
to a dealer service department or other
qualified garage for repairs.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
20 times or more.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 7).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply line fittings, then disconnect them.
Plug the lines, to prevent dirt from entering the
system, and to prevent further fluid loss.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt
can damage the servo, so be
extremely careful to prevent dirt
from entering the system while
the lines are disconnected.
6Working from inside the passenger
compartment, remove the lower left trim
panels above the brake pedal (left-hand-drive
models) or glovebox and trim (right-hand-drive models). On left-hand-drive models, also
disconnect the pedal return spring.
7Prise off the retaining clip, and disconnect
the pushrod from the brake pedal (see
illustration 8.9) or cross-shaft lever.
8Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illus-
tration 8.10).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic lines to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Note:Don’t try to
tighten these fittings without a torque wrench.
If they’re loose, they can leak, which can affect
system operation; if they’re tight, they can be
damaged, and they’ll also leak. You’ll need a
crowfoot-type split ring (“brake”) attachment
for your torque wrench to tighten the fittings
properly.
10When you’re done, bleed the brake
hydraulic system (Section 16) and adjust the
brake pedal travel and the stop-light switch
(see Section 13).
10 Handbrake cable(s)- renewal
2
1Peel back the boot at the base of the
handbrake lever, and remove the handbrake
cable adjusting nut (see illustration)which
also secures the cable to the handbrake lever.There are two cables - one for each rear wheel
- and a nut for each cable. On some models, it
may be necessary to remove the centre
console completely for access.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the rear brake drum (see Section 6)
or rear brake disc (see Section 5).
4On rear drum models, unhook the
handbrake cable from the lever on the rear
brake shoe (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, remove the handbrake shoes and the
actuator (see Section 12) and unhook the
handbrake cable from the actuator (see
illustrations).
5On rear drum models, pull the cable and
cable conduit (tube) out of the back of the
brake backplate, then detach the cable
conduit from the cable clips on the back of
the trailing arm (it’s easier to pull out the old
cable, and fit the new cable, with the conduit
straight instead of curved). On rear disc
models, it’s unnecessary to detach the cable
conduit from the brake backplate, but it’s a
good idea to detach the conduit from the clips
and guides securing it to the trailing arm, to
take some of the bend out of the conduit.
6Working from the wheel end of the cable
conduit, pull the cable out of the conduit (see
illustration).
7Lubricate the new cable with multi-purpose
grease, then insert it into the cable conduit
Braking system 9•11
10.1 Peel back the handbrake lever boot
and remove the relevant handbrake cable
adjusting nut (both arrowed)
10.6 Pull the cable out of its conduit;
before you refit the new cable, be sure to
lubricate it with multi-purpose grease10.4b . . . then remove the pin securing the
cable to the inner cam, and remove the
inner cam
10.4a To detach the handbrake cable from
the handbrake actuator on models with rear
disc brakes, pull on the outer cam and
disconnect it from the inner cam . . .
9

simply unscrew it. Plug the open fitting in the
caliper if the hose is removed for any length of
time, to prevent dirt ingress.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Make sure the brackets are in
good condition and the locknuts are securely
tightened. Renew the spring clips if they don’t
fit tightly.
6Carefully check to make sure the
suspension and steering components do not
make contact with the hoses. Have an
assistant turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock during inspection.
7Bleed the brake system as described in
Section 16.
Metal brake line renewal
8When renewing brake lines, use genuine
parts only - preferably from a BMW dealer.
9Genuine BMW brake lines are supplied
straight. You’ll need a pipe-bending tool to
bend them to the proper shape.
10First, remove the line you intend to renew,
lay it on a clean workbench and measure it
carefully. Obtain a new line of the same
length, and bend it to match the pattern of the
old line.
Warning: Do not crimp or
damage the line. No bend should
have a smaller radius than
14 mm. Make sure the protective
coating on the new line is undamaged at
the bends.
11When fitting the new line, make sure it’s
well supported by the brackets, that the
routing matches the original, and that there’s
plenty of clearance between movable
components or those components which will
become hot.
12After refitting, check the master cylinder
fluid level, and add fluid as necessary. Bleed
the brake system as outlined in Section 16,
and test the brakes carefully before driving the
vehicle. Be sure there are no leaks.
16 Brake hydraulic system-
bleeding
3
Warning: Wear eye protection
when bleeding the brake system.
If the fluid comes in contact with
your eyes, immediately rinse
them with water, and seek medical
attention. Most types of brake fluid are
highly flammable, and may ignite if spilled
onto hot engine components, for example.
In this respect, brake fluid should be
treated with as much care as if it were
petrol. When topping-up or renewing the
fluid, always use the recommended type,
and ensure that it comes from a freshly-
opened sealed container. Never re-use old
brake fluid bled from the system, and don’t
top-up with fluid which has been standing
open for a long time, as it is potentially
dangerous to do so.
Note:Bleeding the hydraulic system is
necessary to remove any air which has
entered the system during removal and
refitting of a hose, line, caliper or master
cylinder.
1It will probably be necessary to bleed the
system at all four brakes if air has entered the
system due to low fluid level, or if the brake
lines have been disconnected at the master
cylinder.
2If a brake line was disconnected at only one
wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder
need be bled.
3If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting
located between the master cylinder and any
of the brakes, that part of the system served
by the disconnected line must be bled.
4Bleed the right rear, the left rear, the right
front and the left front brake, in that order,
when the entire system is involved.
5Remove any residual vacuum from the
brake servo by applying the brakes about 30
times with the engine off. This will also relieve
any pressure in the anti-lock brake system
(where applicable).
6Remove the master cylinder reservoir
cover, and fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
Refit the cover. Note:Check the fluid level
often during the bleeding operation, and add
fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level
from falling low enough to allow air into the
master cylinder.
7Have an assistant on hand, an empty clear
plastic container, and a length of clear plastic
or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleed screws.
Alternatively, a “one-man” bleeding kit can be
used. A “one-man” kit usually contains a tubeor bottle with a one-way valve incorporated -
in this way, the pedal can be pumped as
normal, but air is not drawn back into the
system when the pedal is released. If a one-
man kit is used, follow the instructions
provided with it; similarly with pressure
bleeding kits. In any case, you will also need a
supply of new brake fluid of the
recommended type, and a spanner for the
bleed screw.
8Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the
bleed screw slightly, then tighten it to a point
where it is tight but can still be loosened
quickly and easily.
9Place one end of the tubing over the bleed
nipple, and submerge the other end in brake
fluid in the container (see illustration).
10Have the assistant pump the brakes a few
times, then hold the pedal firmly depressed.
Note:If the vehicle is equipped with ABS,
have the assistant pump the pedal at least 12
times.
11While the pedal is held depressed, open
the bleed screw just enough to allow a flow of
fluid to leave the caliper or wheel cylinder.
Your assistant should press the brake pedal
smoothly to the floor, and hold it there. Watch
for air bubbles coming out of the submerged
end of the tube. When the fluid flow slows
after a couple of seconds, close the screw
and have your assistant release the pedal.
12Repeat paragraphs 10 and 11 until no
more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten
the bleed screw and proceed to the left rear
wheel, the right front wheel and the left front
wheel, in that order, and perform the same
procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir frequently.
Warning: Never re-use old brake
fluid. It absorbs moisture from
the atmosphere, which can allow
the fluid to boil and render the
brakes inoperative.
13Refill the master cylinder with fluid at the
end of the operation.
14Check the operation of the brakes. The
pedal should feel solid when depressed, with
no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire
process. Do not operate the vehicle if you are
in doubt about the effectiveness of the brake
system.
9•14 Braking system
16.9 Place one end of the tubing over the
bleed screw, and submerge the other end
in brake fluid in the container
15.3 A typical brake line-to-brake hose
connection: To disconnect it, use one
spanner to hold the hex-shaped fitting on
the end of the flexible hose (lower right
arrow) and loosen the threaded fitting on
the metal line with a split ring (“brake”)
spanner (upper right arrow), then remove
the spring clip (left arrow)
Brake fluid is an effective
paint stripper, and will attack
plastics; if any is spilt, wash it
off immediately with copious
amounts of water.

10
General
Power steering fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyres
Tyre sizes
3-Series, E30
316 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14
316i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14, 195/65x14
318i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14
320i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x14
325i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x14, 200/60x356, 205/55x15
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”)
518 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14
525i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14, 195/70x14
528i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/70x14
535i and M535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220/55x390
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”)
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15
520i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15, 225/60x15
525i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15, 205/65x15, 225/65x15
530i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205/65x15, 225/60x15
535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225/60x15, 240/45x415
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems
Balljoints - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Control arm (3-Series) - inspection, removal and refitting,
and bush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Control and thrust arms (5-Series) - inspection, removal and
refitting, and bush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Front hub and wheel bearing assembly - removal and refitting . . . . 8
Front strut assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Rack-and-pinion steering gear (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . 19
Rear anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Rear coil springs (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear shock absorbers (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear shock absorber/coil spring assembly (5-Series) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Rear trailing arms (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Rear trailing arms (5-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Rear wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Steering box (5-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering gear boots (3-Series) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Steering linkage (5-Series) - inspection, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Strut or shock absorber/coil spring - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Suspension and steering checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Track rod ends - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Wheel alignment - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Wheels and tyres - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
10•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front suspension
Strut damper rod nut
Rod with external hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Rod with internal hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Strut cartridge threaded collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Strut upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Front control arm (3-Series)
Control arm-to-steering knuckle balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . 64
Control arm-to-subframe balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Control arm bush bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Lower control arm (5-Series)
Control arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . 85
Control arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Thrust arm (5-Series)
Thrust arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . . 85
Thrust arm through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Front hub (wheel bearing) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Steering arm-to-strut bolts (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Anti-roll bar (3-Series)
Anti-roll bar-to-connecting link bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets-to-subframe . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link bracket-to-control arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar (5-Series)
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Anti-roll bar link-to-strut housing locknut
Yellow chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
White chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
10•2 Suspension and steering systems
Torque wrench settingsNm
Rear suspension
Rear shock absorber (3-Series)
Shock absorber-to-upper mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15
Shock absorber-to-trailing arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Rear shock absorber (5-Series)
Lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 to 142
Upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Upper spring mounting-to-shock absorber locknut . . . . . 22 to 24
Trailing arms (3-Series)
Trailing arm-to-lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Trailing arm-to-anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 23
Trailing arms (5-Series)
Trailing arm-to-rear axle carrier (rubber bush
through-bolt and nut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Trailing arm-to-axle carrier connecting link (1983-on) . . . 126
Rear wheel bearing drive flange axle nut (5-Series)
M22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 to 210
M27 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 to 260
Steering system
Steering wheel retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering gear-to-subframe mounting bolts (3-Series) . . . . . 41
Steering box-to-front suspension subframe bolts (5-Series) 42
Track rod end-to-steering arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Track rod end clamping bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Pitman arm-to-steering box (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Steering linkage balljoints (all) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, new ones fitted, of the same
part number or of original-equipment
quality and design. Torque specifications
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Any bent or
damaged parts must be renewed.
The front suspension (see illustrations)is a
MacPherson strut design. The struts are
secured at the upper ends to reinforced areas
at the top of the wheel arches, and at the
lower ends to the steering arms/control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the control arms
via connecting links, and to the suspension
subframe (3-Series models) or the underbody
(5-Series models).
The independent rear suspension system
on 3-Series models (see illustration)features
coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers.
The upper ends of the shock absorbers are
attached to the body; the lower ends are
connected to trailing arms. An anti-roll bar is
attached to the trailing arms via links, and to
the body with clamps.
The independent rear suspension system on
5-Series models (see illustration)uses coil-over shock absorber units instead of separate
shock absorbers and coil springs. The upper
ends are attached to the body; the lower ends
are connected to the trailing arms. The rear
suspension of 5-Series models is otherwise
similar to that of 3-Series models: two trailing
arms connected by an anti-roll bar.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint shaft, the steering gear, the powersteering pump (where fitted) and the steering
linkage, which connects the steering gear to
the steering arms. On 3-Series models, a
rack-and-pinion steering gear is attached
directly to the steering arms via the track rods
and track rod ends. On 5-Series models, a
recirculating-ball steering box is connected to
the steering arms via a Pitman arm, a centre
track rod, the outer track rods and the track
rod ends.
1.1a Front suspension and steering components (3-Series models)
1 Subframe 3 Anti-roll bar link 5 Strut 7 Steering gear
2 Anti-roll bar 4 Control arm 6 Track rod end

Suspension and steering systems 10•3
1.1b Front suspension and steering
components (5-Series models -
left-hand-drive shown)
1 Subframe
2 Anti-roll bar
3 Anti-roll bar link
4 Centre track rod
5 Outer track rod
6 Track rod end
7 Steering arm
8 Control arm
9 Thrust arm
10 Strut
1.2 Rear suspension components
(3-Series models)
1 Shock absorber
2 Coil spring
3 Driveshaft
4 Trailing arm
5 Rear axle carrier
6 Anti-roll bar link
1.3 Rear suspension components
(5-Series models - left-hand-drive shown)
1 Shock absorber/coil spring assembly
2 Driveshaft
3 Anti-roll bar link
4 Anti-roll bar
5 Trailing arm
6 Rear axle carrier
10