1990 BMW 3 SERIES engine

6 Strut or shock absorber/coil
spring- renewal
4
Note:This section applies to all front strut
assemblies and, on 5-Series models, the rear
coil-over shock absorber assemblies.
1If the struts, shock absorbers or coil springs
exhibit the telltale signs of wear (leaking fluid,
loss of damping capability, chipped, sagging
or cracked coil springs) explore all options
before beginning any work. Strut or shock
absorber assemblies complete with springs
may be available on an exchange basis, which
eliminates much time and work. Whichever
route you choose to take, check on the cost
and availability of parts before dismantling the
vehicle.
Warning: Dismantling a strut or
coil-over shock absorber
assembly is a potentially
dangerous undertaking, and
utmost attention must be directed to the
job, or serious injury may result. Use only a
high-quality spring compressor, and
carefully follow the manufacturer’s
instructions supplied with the tool. After
removing the coil spring from the strut
assembly, set it aside in a safe, isolated
area.
2Remove the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11). Mount the
assembly in a vice. Line the vice jaws with
wood or rags to prevent damage to the unit,
and don’t tighten the vice excessively.
3Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor (these
can be obtained at most car accessory shops,
or it may be possible to hire one) on the
spring, and compress it sufficiently to relieve
all pressure from the suspension support (see
illustration). This can be verified by wiggling
the spring.
4Prise the protective cap off the damper rod
self-locking nut. Loosen the nut (see
illustration)with a spanner while holding thedamper rod stationary with another spanner
or an Allen key.
5Remove the nut, the strut bearing, the
insulator and the large washer. Check the
bearing for smooth operation. If it doesn’t turn
smoothly, renew it. Check the rubber insulator
for cracking and general deterioration. If there
is any separation of the rubber, renew the
insulator.
6Lift off the spring retainer and the rubber
ring at the top of the spring. Check the rubber
ring for cracking and hardness. Renew it if
necessary.
7Carefully lift the compressed spring from
the assembly and set it in a safe place, such
as a steel cabinet.
Warning: Never place your head
near the end of the spring!
8Slide the protective tube and rubber
bumper off the damper rod. If either is
damaged or worn, renew it.
9If you’re working on a front strut, loosen
and remove the threaded collar (see
illustration)and pull the old strut cartridge
from the strut housing. Pour the old oil from
the strut housing.
10On all struts except gas-charged units, fill
the strut housing with 20 to 25 cc (3-Series),
42 to 47 cc (518i and 520i 5-Series models) or
20 to 25 cc (all other 5-Series models) ofengine oil (the oil helps cool the shock
absorber by transferring heat to the strut
housing). Note:It doesn’t matter what
viscosity or grade of engine oil is used.
11Refitting is otherwise the reverse of
removal. Tighten the threaded collar to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Make sure you align the end of the coil spring
with the shoulder of the rubber ring and with
the spring retainer (see illustration). Tighten
the damper rod nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
12Refit the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11).
7 Balljoints- check and renewal
3
Check
Note:On 3-Series models, there are two
balljoints on each control arm - one between
the middle of the arm and the subframe, and
the other between the outer end of the arm
and the steering knuckle. On 5-Series models,
there are balljoints on the outer ends of the
control arm and the thrust arm.
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2Visually inspect the rubber boot between
the balljoint and the subframe or steering
knuckle, etc for cuts, tears or leaking grease.
If you note any of these conditions, renew the
control arm or thrust arm - the balljoints are
not available separately.
3Place a large lever under the balljoint, and
try to push the balljoint up. Next, position the
lever between the arm and the subframe or
between the arm and steering knuckle. If you
can see or feel any movement during either
check, a worn balljoint is indicated.
4Have an assistant grasp the tyre at the top
and bottom, and shake the top of the tyre with
an in-and-out motion. Touch the balljoint stud
nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn
balljoint stud or a widened hole in the
subframe or steering knuckle. If the latter
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
6.4 Prise the protective cap off the
damper rod nut, and remove the large nut
(arrowed) - to prevent the damper rod from
turning, place an Allen key in the end of
the shaft6.3 Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor to
the spring, and compress it sufficiently to
relieve all pressure from the suspension
support
6.11 Make sure you align the end of the
coil spring with the shoulder of the rubber
ring, and with the spring retainer
6.9 Loosen and remove the threaded
collar, and pull the old strut cartridge from
the strut housing - on all struts except
gas-charged units, pour the old oil from
the strut housing. (Spring should have
been removed first!)
10

4Inspect and, if necessary, renew any worn
or defective bolts, washers, bushes or links.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all fasteners securely.
13 Rear trailing arms (3-Series)
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and
support it securely on axle stands. Remove
the wheel(s).
2Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8), or
disconnect it from the final drive output
flange.
3Disconnect the rear brake hose from the
metal brake line at the bracket on the trailing
arm (see illustration). Note: For information
on disconnecting brake hose-to-metal line
connections, see Chapter 9. Plug the line and
hose, to prevent dirt ingress and loss of brake
fluid.
4Disconnect the handbrake cable (see
Chapter 9).
5Disconnect the lower end of the shockabsorber from the trailing arm (see Section 9),
and lower the trailing arm.
6Remove the trailing arm pivot bolts (see
illustration)and remove the trailing arm.
7Inspect the pivot bolt bushes. If they’re
cracked, dried out or torn, take the trailing
arm to an engineering works and have them
new ones fitted. Each bush has a larger
diameter shoulder on one end. Make sure this
larger diameter shoulder on each bush faces
away from the trailing arm, ie the inner bush
shoulder faces the centre of the vehicle, and
the outer bush shoulder faces away from the
vehicle.Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Support
the trailing arm with a trolley jack, and raise it
to simulate normal ride height, then tighten
the nuts and bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Be sure to bleed the
brakes as described in Chapter 9.
14 Rear trailing arms (5-Series)
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle and
support it securely on axle stands. Remove
the wheel(s).2Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8).
3Disconnect the rear brake hose from the
metal brake line at the bracket on the trailing
arm (see illustration). Note: For information
on disconnecting brake hose-to-metal line
connections, see Chapter 9. Plug the line and
hose, to prevent dirt ingress and loss of brake
fluid.
4Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
handbrake actuator, and unclip the handbrake
cable from the trailing arm (see Chapter 9).
5Remove the ABS wheel sensor (if
applicable) from the trailing arm, and unclip
the sensor wire harness from the arm.
Position the sensor aside so it won’t be
damaged during removal of the trailing arm.
6If you’re removing the right trailing arm,
unplug the connector for the brake pad wear
sensor, if applicable.
7Disconnect the rear anti-roll bar from the
trailing arm (see Section 12).
8On 1983 and later models, remove one of
the rear axle carrier bolts (see illustration).
9Disconnect the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see Section 11).
10Remove the two trailing arm pivot bolts
and nuts, and remove the trailing arm from the
vehicle.
11Inspect the pivot bolt bushes. If they’re
cracked, dried out or torn, take the trailing
arm to an engineering works, and have new
ones fitted. The bush inner sleeve is longer on
one side. Make sure the bushes are fitted with
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
14.3 Disconnect the brake hose (left
arrow) from the fitting on the metal brake
line (right arrow) at this bracket13.6 Nut (arrowed) for the outer pivot bolt
13.3 Disconnect the rear brake hose
(middle arrow) from the metal brake line
fitting (right arrow) at this bracket on the
trailing arm, then plug the line and hose
immediately; the other arrow points to the
nut for the inner pivot bolt
12.3b Bolt (arrowed) connecting rear anti-
roll bar link to trailing arm (5-Series)12.3a A nut and bolt (arrowed) connect
each rear anti-roll bar link to the rear
trailing arms (3-Series)12.2 Rear anti-roll bar bracket bolt
(arrowed) (3-Series)

axle (it probably will), use a puller to remove
the race from the stub axle. If you can’t get
the race off with a puller, take the stub axle to
an engineering works and have it pressed off.
13Remove the large circlip that retains the
bearing in the bearing housing (see
illustration), then drive the bearing out of the
bearing housing with a large socket or a
suitable piece of pipe (see illustration).
14Refitting is basically a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points:
a) Fit the new bearing using a large socket
or a suitable piece of pipe, with an
outside diameter the same diameter as
the outer race (see illustration). Don’t
apply force to the inner race. Make sure
the bearing is fully seated against the
back of the bore. Refit the circlip, making
sure it’s fully seated into its groove.
b) BMW dealers use special tools (Part Nos.
23 1 1300, 33 4 080 and 33 4 020) to pull
the stub axle into the bearing, because
the smooth portion between the splined
portion of the stub axle and the flange is a
press-fit, and knocks out the wheel
bearing inner race during refitting of the
stub axle. However, you can refit the stub
axle without these tools, using the old
inner race and a piece of pipe 13 mm
long by 38 mm inside diameter (seeillustration). First, insert the stub axle
through the new bearing until the
threaded portion protrudes from the inner
race. Refit the nut and tighten it until the
splined portion of the stub axle shaft
bottoms against the nut. You’ll need to
hold the stub axle flange with a lever or a
large screwdriver while tightening the nut
(see illustration). Remove the nut, refit
your piece of pipe, centred on the inner
race and refit the nut (see illustration).
Tighten the nut again until it bottoms
against the splines. Remove the nut, refit
the old inner race, refit the nut and tighten
it once more until it bottoms against the
splines. Remove the nut, remove the old
inner race, refit your piece of pipe, refit
the old inner race, refit the nut and tighten
it until it bottoms against the splines.
Remove the nut, the old race and the
pipe. Refit the drive flange, refit the nut
and tighten it securely, but don’t attempt
to tighten it to the final torque until the
vehicle is lowered to the ground.
c) Refit the wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground before tightening the stub axle
nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
16 Steering system-
general information
On 3-Series models, the steering wheel and
steering column are connected to a rack-and-
pinion steering gear (power-assisted where
applicable) via a short universal joint shaft.
When the steering wheel is turned, the
steering column and universal joint turn a
pinion gear shaft on top of the rack. The
pinion gear teeth mesh with the gear teeth of
the rack, so the rack moves right or left in the
housing when the pinion is turned. The
movement of the rack is transmitted through
the track rods and track rod ends to the
steering arms, which are an integral part of
the strut housings.
On 5-Series models, the upper part of the
steering system is identical to a 3-Series.
Instead of a rack-and-pinion set-up, however,
these models use a power-assisted
recirculating ball steering box which steers
the front wheels via a steering linkage
consisting of a Pitman arm, an idler arm, a
centre track rod, a pair of inner track rods,
and two track rod ends.
10•12 Suspension and steering systems
15.14d When you refit the spacer, make
sure it’s centred on the inner race of the
bearing before tightening the nut15.14c Hold the stub axle flange with a
large lever while tightening the nut15.14b You can fabricate your own spacer
tool from a piece of 13 mm long, 38 mm
inside diameter pipe (left); you’ll also need
to use the old inner race (right)
15.14a To refit the new bearing, use a
large socket or a piece of pipe with an
outside diameter the same diameter as the
outer race of the bearing - don’t apply
force to the inner race - and make sure the
bearing is fully seated against the back of
its bore15.13b . . . then drive the bearing out of
the housing with a large socket or a
suitable piece of pipe15.13a Remove the large circlip that
retains the bearing in the housing . . .

Where power-assistance is fitted, hydraulic
pressure (provided by an engine-driven pump)
delivers power steering fluid to the rack-and-
pinion steering gear or the recirculating-ball
steering box - this enhances steering
response and reduces steering effort.
Aside from maintaining the proper level of
power steering fluid in the system and
checking the tension of the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1, where applicable), the steering
system requires no maintenance. However,
on high-mileage vehicles, the track rod end
balljoints, the universal joints on either end of
the universal joint shaft, and the rubber
coupling between the steering column and the
universal joint shaft will wear, develop
excessive play, and cause the steering to feel
somewhat loose. At this point, you’ll have to
renew these items; they can’t be serviced.
Before you conclude that the steering
system needs work, however, always check
the tyres (see Section 25) and tyre pressures
(see Chapter 1). Also inspect the bearings in
the strut upper mounts (see Section 5), the
front hub bearings (see Section 8) and other
suspension parts, which may also be
contributing to an imprecise steering feel.
17 Track rod ends-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen but do not remove the wheel bolts,
then raise the front of the vehicle and secure it
on axle stands. Remove the front wheel.
3-Series models
2Loosen the nut on the track rod balljoint
stud, and free the balljoint stud from the
steering arm using a balljoint separator. In the
absence of a separator tool, try giving the
steering arm a few light blows with a hammer
(see illustration). Remove the nut, and
separate the balljoint stud from the steering
arm.3Loosen the clamp bolt that locks the track
rod end to the inner track rod. Measure the
length of the track rod end, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure the
track rod end is refitted in the same position
(see illustration). Unscrew the track rod end
from the inner track rod.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure the mark you made on the threads of the
track rod end is aligned correctly, if
applicable. If you measured the track rod end,
make sure it is refitted to the same distance.
5Have the toe-in checked and, if necessary,
adjusted at a dealer service department or
qualified garage.
5-Series models
6Measure the length of the track rod and
record your measurement, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure the
track rod end is refitted in the same position
(see illustration). Loosen the clamp bolt.
7Use a balljoint separator or a puller to
separate the track rod end from the steering
arm (see illustration).
8Unscrew the track rod end.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you align the paint mark made on the
threads of the track rod end, if applicable. If
you measured the track rod end, make sure it
is refitted to the same distance.
10Have the toe-in checked and, if
necessary, adjusted at a dealer service
department or qualified garage.
18 Steering gear boots
(3-Series)- renewal
4
1Remove the track rod ends (see Sec-
tion 17).
2Cut the boot clamps at both ends of the old
boots, and slide off the boots.
3While the boots are removed, inspect the
seals in the end of the steering gear. If they’releaking, renew the steering gear (see Sec-
tion 19).
4Slide the new boots into place and fit new
boot clamps.
5Refit the track rod ends (see Section 17).
19 Rack-and-pinion steering
gear (3-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Loosen but do not remove the wheel bolts,
raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the front wheels.
2Mark the lower universal joint on the
steering shaft and the pinion shaft, to ensure
proper alignment when they’re reassembled.
Remove the nut and bolt that attach the lower
end of the universal joint shaft to the steering
gear pinion shaft. Loosen the bolt and nut at
the upper end of the universal joint shaft. Slide
the universal joint shaft up a little, disengage it
from the pinion shaft, and remove it. Inspect
the universal joints and the rubber coupling
for wear. If any of them are worn or defective,
renew the universal joint shaft.
3On power steering models, using a large
Suspension and steering systems 10•13
17.6 Measure the length of the track rod
and record your measurement, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure
the track rod end is refitted in the same
position, then loosen the clamp bolt
(arrowed)17.3 Loosen the clamp bolt (arrowed) that
locks the track rod end to the inner track
rod. Paint an alignment mark on the
threads, to ensure the track rod end is
refitted in the same position, and
unscrew the track rod end from the inner
track rod17.2 Loosen the nut on the track rod
balljoint stud. For preference use a
balljoint separator; otherwise, give the
steering arm a few light blows with a
hammer to release the balljoint stud.
Remove the nut, and separate the balljoint
stud from the steering arm
17.7 Using a puller to separate the track
rod end from the steering arm
10

21 Steering box (5-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note:If you find that the steering box is
defective, it is not recommended that you
overhaul it. Because of the special tools
needed to do the job, it is best to let your
dealer service department overhaul it for you
(otherwise, fit a new unit). Removal and
refitting the steering box is outlined here.
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times.
2Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir (see Chap-
ter 1).
3Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
4Support the front of the engine with a trolley
jack. Place a block of wood between the jack
head and the sump to protect the sump from
damage.
5Remove the pivot bolts from the inner ends
of the front control arms (see Section 4).
6Remove the nuts from the left and right
engine mountings (see Chapter 2).
7Remove the mounting bolts (two on each
side on earlier models, three on each side on
later models) from the subframe crossmember
(see illustration)and remove the subframe.
8Remove the nuts and bolts that secure the
universal joint shaft to the steering box worm
shaft. Slide the universal joint shaft up and off
the worm shaft. Inspect the universal joint
shaft for wear. If it’s stiff or worn, renew it.
9Remove the banjo bolts, and disconnect
the hydraulic pressure line and the return line
from the box (see illustration). Plug the ends
of the lines to prevent fluid loss and
contamination. Discard the sealing washers -
new ones should be used when reassembling.
10Remove the steering box retaining bolts
(see illustrations)and remove the steering
box.
11If it’s necessary to detach the Pitman arm
from the box sector shaft (to have the box
serviced or to switch the arm to a new orrebuilt unit), make a match mark across the
two for correct reassembly. Remove the
Pitman arm retaining nut and washer. Use a
puller to withdraw the arm if necessary.
Refitting
12Refit the Pitman arm by aligning the
match marks made during removal, then
tighten the nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
13When fitted the Pitman arm must not have
any measurable endfloat within 100° from the
neutral position. If play exists, have the
following parts checked:
a) Sector shaft and bearings (for wear)
b) Thrust washer and adjuster bolt head (for
wear)
c) Ball nut and worm shaft (for wear)
14Refit the steering box. Align the mark on
the pinion gear shaft with the mark on the
universal joint shaft, and tighten the steering
box bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to use new self-locking nuts
on the universal joint shaft, the centre track
rod, the steering box and the crossmember.
Also, use new sealing washers on the
hydraulic line fittings.
16Refer to Chapter 1 and fill the powersteering reservoir with the recommended
fluid, then bleed the system as described in
Section 23. Check for leakage from the lines
and connections.22 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine undertray.
2On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times before
loosening the hydraulic line fittings.
3Disconnect the fluid return hose, and drain
the power steering fluid from the reservoir into
a clean container. Disconnect the pressure
line from the pump.
4If you need to remove the pulley from the
pump, push on the power steering pump
drivebelt by hand to increase the tension, and
unscrew the pulley nuts or bolts.
5Loosen the power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt, and remove the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
6Remove the mounting bolts (see
illustrations)and detach the power steering
pump.
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
21.10a This bolt (arrowed) secures the
steering box to the subframe
crossmember. The nut, not visible in this
photo, is accessed through a hole in the
crossmember (engine removed for clarity,
left-hand-drive shown)21.9 Disconnect the power steering
pressure line fitting (right arrow) and the
return line fitting (left arrow). Note that the
return line fitting banjo bolt is larger than
the bolt for the pressure line fitting (left-
hand-drive shown)21.7 Subframe crossmember bolts
(arrowed)
22.6a Typical 3-Series power steering
pump adjusting bolt (arrowed) . . .
21.10b This bolt (arrowed) attaches the
steering box to the body (the nut, not
visible in this photo, is on the front side of
the steering box)
10

Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the nuts and bolts securely. Adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
8Top-up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Sec-
tion 23).
23 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Recheck the fluid level and top
up if necessary.
4Start the engine and run it at 1000 rpm or
less. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock again (three or four times) and recheck
the fluid level one more time. Note:On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, pump the
brake pedal five or six times before turning the
steering wheel. Once the fluid level remains
constant, continue turning the wheel back and
forth until no more bubbles appear in the fluid
in the reservoir.
5Lower the vehicle to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Recheck the fluid
level. Position the wheels straight-ahead.24 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If the vehicle is
equipped with an airbag, do not
attempt this procedure. Have it
performed by a dealer service
department or other qualified specialist, as
there is a risk of injury if the airbag is
accidentally triggered.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
BMW emblem in the centre of the steering
wheel.
3Remove the steering wheel nut, and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4On all 3-Series models, and on 1986 and
later 5-Series models, turn the ignition key to
the first position to unlock the ignition lock.
5Remove the steering wheel from thesteering shaft. If the wheel is difficult to
remove from the shaft, use a steering wheel
puller to remove it - don’t hammer on the
shaft.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to align the match marks you made on the
steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
25 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1
Note:For more information on care and
maintenance of tyres, refer to Chapter 1.
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel-belted radial tyres as
original equipment. Use of other types or
sizes of tyres may affect the ride and handling
of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types or
sizes of tyres, as the handling and braking
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be renewed in pairs on the same
axle; if only one new tyre is being fitted, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be renewed if they are bent,
heavily dented, leak air, or are otherwise
damaged.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics, as
well as tyre life. Whenever a new tyre is fitted,
the tyre and wheel should be balanced.
10•16 Suspension and steering systems
24.3 After removing the steering wheel
nut, mark the relationship of the steering
wheel to the steering shaft (arrowed) to
ensure proper alignment during
reassembly
22.6c Typical 5-Series power steering pump mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.6b . . . and mounting nut and bolt (arrowed)

11
1 General information
These models feature an all-steel welded
construction, where the floorpan and body
components are welded together and
attached to separate front and rear subframe
assemblies. Certain components are
particularly vulnerable to accident damage,
and can be unbolted and repaired or renewed.
Among these parts are the body mouldings,
bumpers, bonnet, doors, tailgate, and all
glass.
Only general body maintenance procedures
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Bodywork and underframe-
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheelarches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be usedon vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear, so that water can
be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in
the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears, by the use of proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.
Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Bodywork repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bodywork repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Boot lid/tailgate - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Fixed glass - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Interior trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal, refitting and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering column shrouds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
11•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents

7 Hinges and locks-
maintenance
1
Every six months or so, the hinges and lock
assemblies on the doors, bonnet and the boot
lid/tailgate should be given a few drops of
light oil or lock lubricant. The door or tailgate
lock strikers should also be lubricated with a
thin coat of grease, to reduce wear and
ensure free movement.
8 Fixed glass- renewal
5
Renewal of the windscreen and fixed glass
requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive materials, and some specialised
tools and techniques. These operations
should be left to a dealer service department
or windscreen specialist.
9 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
1
3-Series
1Detach the clips along the top of the grille
(see illustration).2Remove the screws, and lift the centre and
side grilles out (see illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5-Series
E28 (“old-shape”) models
6Remove the screws, and detach the centre
and side grille pieces.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
E34 (“new-shape”) models
Centre grille
8Remove the screws and detach the
headlight covers in the engine compartment
for access.
9Remove the screw, and lift out the plastic
cover behind the centre grille for access to the
clips.
10From the engine compartment, reach
under the headlight housings and detach the
clips retaining the centre grille valances, then
push the grille forwards (see illustration).
11Use a screwdriver to depress the clips,
detach the grille assembly and remove it by
pulling it straight out.
12Refit the centre grille by placing it in
position and pushing it straight back until it
clips into place.
Side grille
13Remove the centre grille.
14Remove the screws, and lift the side grille
assembly out (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Bonnet- removal, refitting and
adjustment
1
Note: The bonnet is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
3-Series models
1Open the bonnet. Scribe or draw alignment
marks around the bolt heads to ensure proper
alignment on refitting (see illustration).
2Disconnect the earth cable and windscreen
washer hose from the bonnet.
3Detach the bonnet hinge rod clip and
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
10.3a Use needle-nose pliers to pull off
the hinge pin clip . . .
10.1 Use paint or a marking pen to mark
on the hinge plate around the bolt heads -
mark around the entire hinge plate, if
desired, before adjusting the bonnet
9.14 Remove the screws and pull the side
grille assembly straight out
9.10 Detach the centre grille valance by
reaching under each headlight and
pressing on the release lever
9.2b Side grille screw locations (arrowed)9.2a The centre grille is held in place by
two screws (arrowed)9.1 Open the bonnet and remove the grille
retaining clips (arrowed)