1988 OPEL VECTRA trunk

Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the wiring plugs are
correctly reconnected and that the unit is
located securely.
36Knock sensor and module
(X16 SZ models) - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1The knock sensor fitted to the X16 SZ
engine is located on the cylinder block below
the inlet manifold, between cylinders 2 and 3.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the wiring and unscrew the unit
from the block.
4The module and control unit are located on
the left-hand side of the engine compartment
behind the battery. To remove, disconnect the
wiring multiplug and remove the retaining
bolts (see illustration).
5There is no provision for testing the knock
sensor or module without dedicated Vauxhall
test equipment. Check for external damage
and replace if necessary.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the wiring plugs are
correctly reconnected and that the units are
located securely.
37Knock sensor (Simtec
system) - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect wiring harness plug, from inlet
air temperature sensor and wiring harness
plug, from hot mass air flow meter.
3Remove crankcase ventilation hoses.
4Remove coolant hoses from air inlet hoses,
hot film mass air flow meter complete with air
inlet hoses, from upper part of air cleaner and
throttle body.5Press retaining clip for 1st and 4th cylinder
injectors in plug strip (with screwdriver)
towards fuel distributor pipe - lifting plug strip
at the same time. On the underside of the plug
strip there are a total of 6 plug connections, 4
of which are for the injectors.
6Disconnect wiring harness plug for knock
sensor from the plug strip.
7Connect a 1 metre length of separate cable
to knock sensor wiring harness plug (note
routing).
8Remove knock sensor from cylinder block
(see illustration).
9Disconnect knock sensor cable from
separately attached cable, separate cable
remains in engine compartment.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
the following.
11Before refitting ensure that the sensor is
spotlessly clean. Clean the entire contact
surface of the sensor must lie directly on the
cylinder block. Do not use any form of
washers.
12Carefully refit sensor into the block.
Tighten to the correct torque.
13Guide knock sensor cable between ridges
on inlet manifold using separate cable -
ensure correct routing.
14Remove the cable.
15Insert the wiring harness plug for the
knock sensor, into the plug strip.
16Correctly align the spring clips for theinjectors as they may prevent engagement of
the plug strip. Correct contact between the
plug strip and the injector is essential.
17When connecting plug strip, an audible
‘click’ should be heard.
18Ensure that hoses are in good condition
and installed securely with the two clamps.
38Inlet manifold (SOHC without
Multec) - removal and refitting
3
Note:Refer to warning in Section 2, before
proceeding. Use a new gaskets when refitting.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the idle speed adjuster and its
hoses, referring to Section 22, if necessary.
3Release the securing clip, then disconnect
the throttle cable and balljoint from the throttle
valve lever. Slide the throttle cable grommet
from the bracket on the inlet manifold, and
move the throttle cable to one side out of the
way.
4Loosen the clamp screw and disconnect
the air trunking from the throttle body.
5Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the
brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet
manifold(see illustration).
6Disconnect the camshaft cover breather
hose from the throttle body.
7Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
throttle body. Be prepared for coolant
spillage, and clamp or plug the open ends of
the hoses, to prevent further coolant loss.
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle
position sensor.
9Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the fuel pressure regulator.
10Disconnect the wiring harness housing
from the fuel injectors and move it to one side,
taking care not to strain the wiring. Pull up on
the wiring harness housing, and compress the
wiring plug retaining clips to release the
harness housing from the injectors.
11Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
rail. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take
adequate fire precautions. Clamp or plug the
open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt
ingress and further fuel leakage.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•17
38.5 Disconnecting the brake servo
vacuum hose -
SOHC models37.8 Knock sensor and wiring
(Simtec system)
1 Sensor2 Securing bolt
36.4 Knock sensor and module (X16 SZ models)
1 Sensor2 Module3 Sensor securing bolt
4B

12Unscrew and remove the top alternator
mounting nut and bolt.
13Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
14Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw
the manifold from the cylinder head. Recover
the gasket (see illustrations).
15It is possible that some of the manifold
studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder
head when the manifold securing nuts are
unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be
screwed back into the cylinder head once the
manifold has been removed, using two
manifold nuts locked together.
16If desired, the ancillary components can
be removed from the manifold, referring to the
relevant Chapter.
Refitting
17Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
18Where applicable refit any ancillary
components to the manifold, with reference to
relevant Sections of Chapters 4A or 4B.
19If the alternator mounting bracket has
been unbolted from the manifold, refit it
before refitting the manifold, as access to the
securing bolt is extremely limited once the
manifold is in place.
20Refit the manifold using a new gasket,
and tighten the securing nuts to the specified
torque.
21Ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and
wires are correctly reconnected.
22On completion, check and if necessary
top-up the coolant level, (Chapter 3).
23Check and if necessary adjust the throttle
cable free play, as described in Chapters 4A
or 4B, as applicable.
24If any of the fuel system components have
been disturbed or renewed, check and if
necessary adjust the idle mixture, as
described in Chapters 4A or 4B, as applicable.
39Inlet manifold (SOHCwith
Multec) - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Depressurise the fuel system Section 8).
2Remove the air box (see Section 5).
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Either remove the throttle body assembly
(see Section 32), or disconnect the throttle
cable, wiring, fuel and vacuum hoses and
pipes to allow the manifold to be removed
with the throttle body.
5Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 3).
6Continue as described in Chapter 4A,
Section 26, paragraph 4 onwards.
Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; renew all gaskets and seals
disturbed.
40Inlet manifold (DOHC
models) - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the air
mass meter. Recover the sealing ring.
3Loosen the clamp screw securing the air
trunking to the right-hand end of the air mass
meter.
4Using an Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the four bolts securing the air box to the
throttle body. Lift the air box from the throttle
body, and disconnect the hose from the base
of the air box then withdraw the air box/air
mass meter assembly.
5Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle
position sensor.
6Slide the throttle cable end from the throttle
valve lever. Then pull the cable end grommet
from the bracket on the inlet manifold and
move the throttle cable to one side out of the
way.
7Disconnect the two breather hoses from the
rear of the camshaft cover. Disconnect the
larger hose from the throttle body, and
remove the hose completely.
8Position a wad of rag beneath one of the
fuel hose unions on the fuel rail, to absorb the
fuel that will be released as the union is
disconnected.
9Slowly loosen the fuel hose union, to
gradually relieve the pressure in the fuel feed
line, then disconnect the hose from the fuel
rail. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take
adequate fire precautions. Plug the end of the
fuel hose, to prevent dirt ingress and further
fuel leakage.
10Repeat paragraphs 9 and 10 for the
remaining fuel hose-to-fuel rail union.
11Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the fuel pressure regulator.
12Disconnect the wiring harness housing
from the fuel injectors and move it to one side,
taking care not to strain the wiring. Pull up on
the wiring harness housing, and compress the
wiring plug retaining clips to release the
housing from the injectors.
13Unscrew the union nut, and disconnectthe brake servo vacuum hose from the left-
hand side of the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
14Unscrew the retaining nut, and remove
the fuel hose bracket from the left-hand side
of the throttle body.
15Unscrew the securing nuts, and
disconnect the earth leads from the fuel rail
securing studs at either end of the fuel rail.
16Unscrew the securing bolt, and remove
the cable/hose bracket from the left-hand end
of the inlet manifold.
17Remove the idle speed adjuster, as
described in Section 22.
18Unscrew and remove the top alternator
mounting nut and bolt.
19Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
20Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw
the manifold from the cylinder head. Recover
the gasket.
21It is possible that some of the manifold
studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder
head when the manifold securing nuts are
unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be
screwed back into the cylinder head once the
manifold has been removed, using two
manifold nuts locked together.
22If desired, the ancillary components can
be removed from the manifold, with reference
to the relevant Sections of Chapters 4A or 4B.
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
4B•18Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
38.14A Unscrew the securing nuts
40.13 Brake servo vacuum hose
connection at inlet manifold (arrowed) -
DOHC models
38.14B ...and withdraw the inlet manifold -
SOHC models

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
Starter to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Starter support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Temperature regulator plug (M20) * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Timing belt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Timing belt drive gear to crankshaft: *
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250184
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by between 40°and 50°
Timing belt guide roller bracket to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to cylinder block:
Engines up to 1993
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 45°
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 15°
1993-on engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Transfer box bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
Transmission to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
1General
This part of Chapter 2 describes
procedures that are specific to the DOHC
engine. It should be read in conjunction with
Part A.
The lower engine is basically the same as
the 2.0 litre SOHC. However the pistons are
attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon
pins, which are fully floating, and are secured
by circlips.
Both camshafts on these engines are driven
from the crankshaft by one toothed
composite rubber belt. Each cylinder has four
valves (two inlet and two exhaust), operated
directly from the camshafts by hydraulic
self-adjusting valve lifters. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves.
DOHC models are fitted with a remotely
mounted oil cooler.
The distributor is driven directly from the
exhaust camshaft.
2Engine - removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Carry out procedure in Chapter 2A, noting
the following differences.
2With the car safely raised, remove the
engine undershield.
3The fuel hoses need to be disconnected
from the fuel rail.
4Disconnect coolant hoses from the cylinder
block and cylinder head. Also disconnect the
oil cooler pipe unions from the oil pump.
5Unbolt the right-hand driveshaft centre
bearing support bracket from the rear of the
cylinder block.
Refitting
6Refitting the engine is similar to theprocedure in Chapter 2A. The exceptions
being, replacement of the right-hand
driveshaft centre bearing support bracket at
the rear of the cylinder block and retightening
the securing bolts.
7Replace the undershield.
3Engine/transmission
mountings- renewal
3
The procedure for replacing the engine/
transmission is similar to SOHC models, see
Chapter 2A. However this engine is fitted with
an undershield that needs to be removed
before replacing the mounts. Do not forget to
replace the undershield before lowering the
car.
4Timing belt, sprockets and belt
tensioner and idler pulleys-
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Note: The timing belt should be renewed on
refitting. A two-legged puller may be required
to remove the crankshaft sprocket
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.2Disconnect the air cleaner trunking from the
airflow meter, then remove the cover and the
air cleaner element from the air cleaner. If
desired, for improved access, the complete
air cleaner assembly can be removed, as
described in Chapter 4B.
3Remove the power steering pump drivebelt,
as described in Chapter 10.
4Remove the alternator drivebelt, as
described in Chapter 5.
5Remove the three securing screws, and
withdraw the outer timing belt cover. Recover
the rubber grommets from the screw holes in
the cover if they are loose.
6Turn the crankshaft using a Torx socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the timing
marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned
with the notches in the camshaft cover. The
notch in the crankshaft pulley should also be
aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt
cover (see illustrations).
7Extract the six securing bolts using a
splined bit, and withdraw the crankshaft
pulley (see illustration). If necessary,
counterhold the crankshaft using a socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt. If the engine is in
the vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented
from turning by having an assistant engage
first gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel ring gear teeth can
be jammed using a large screwdriver or
similar tool. Before removing the pulley, check
that the timing marks are still aligned.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•3
4.6B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover (circled)4.6A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark
aligned with notch in camshaft cover
2B

pitting. If evident, the cylinder head and all
bearing caps must be renewed as a matched
set, as there is no provision for refacing if the
bearing caps cannot be renewed individually.
8The camshaft(s) should show no marks or
scoring on the journal or cam lobe surfaces. if
evident, renew the camshaft(s).
9It is advisable to renew the camshaft front
oil seal(s) as a matter of course. Prise the old
seal(s) from the front of the camshaft(s) and
discard them.
Refitting
10Begin refitting by liberally coating the
contact faces of the hydraulic valve lifters and
the camshaft(s) with molybdenum disulphide
paste.
11Coat the mating faces of the front and
rear bearing caps with sealing compound and
refit the bearing caps in their original positions
as noted during removal.
12Tighten the camshaft bearing cap nuts to
the specified torque in half-turn stages, as
when loosening the nuts. Note that when
refitting the exhaust camshaft, the two smaller
rear bearing cap securing nuts should be
tightened after all the main camshaft bearing
cap nuts have been tightened. Note also that
the two smaller nuts should be tightened to a
lower torque wrench setting than the main
nuts.
13Turn the camshaft until the locating peg
for the camshaft sprocket is uppermost, then
lubricate the lips of a rear camshaft front oil
seal with a little grease, and fit the oil seal,
using a tube or socket of similar diameter with
a washer and the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Screw the camshaft sprocket bolt into the end
of the camshaft to draw the oil seal into
position on its shoulder.
14Repeat the procedure for the remaining
camshaft.
15Refit the distributor with reference to
Chapter 5. Fit a new timing belt and the
camshaft sprockets, then adjust the timing
belt as described in Section 4 or 5, as
applicable.
8Cylinder head -removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
4
Note: The engine must be cold when the
cylinder head is removed. Do not remove the
cylinder head from a hot engine. New cylinder
head bolts, a new cylinder head gasket and a
new timing belt must be used on refitting.
The torque settings (as shown in Chapter 2A)
are only applicable to latest specification head
bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or
alternative make, head bolts may require
different torques. Consult your supplier
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system, as described in
Chapter 3.3Remove the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
4The cylinder head can be removed
complete with the inlet manifold, or the inlet
manifold can be detached from the cylinder
head before removal, with reference to
Chapter 4B. If no work is to be carried out on
the inlet manifold, it can be unbolted from the
cylinder head and supported to one side out
of the way, thus avoiding the need to
disconnect the relevant hoses, pipes and
wiring.
5If the cylinder head is to be removed
complete with the inlet manifold, disconnect
all relevant hoses, pipes and wiring from the
inlet manifold and associated components,
referring to Chapter 4B, and unbolt the
manifold support bracket from the manifold.
Loosen the alternator mountings with
reference to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper
alternator mounting from the inlet manifold.
6If the inlet manifold is to be left in the engine
compartment, continue as follows, otherwise
go on to paragraph 17.
7Disconnect the wiring plug from the airflow
meter, and the breather hose from the air box
on the throttle body. Disconnect the air
cleaner trunking and remove the airflow
meter/air box assembly from the throttle
body. Refer to Chapter 4B if necessary.
8Disconnect the end of the throttle cable
from the throttle valve lever, then unbolt the
throttle cable support bracket and remove it
from the inlet manifold.
9Unscrew the two earth lead securing nuts
from the fuel rail (one at each end of the rail)
and disconnect the three earth leads.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the
throttle position switch.
11Pull up on the wiring harness housing, and
disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
injectors by compressing the retaining clips.
Move the wiring harness housing to one side.
12Disconnect the two breather hoses from
the rear of the camshaft cover.
13Loosen the alternator mountings, with
reference to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper
alternator mounting from the inlet manifold.
14Unbolt the manifold support bracket from
the manifold.15Make a final check to ensure that all
necessary hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected, then unscrew the securing nuts
and lift the inlet manifold from the cylinder
head. Ensure that the manifold is properly
supported, taking care not to strain any of the
hoses, pipes and wires, etc., which are still
connected.
16Recover the manifold gasket from the
cylinder head.
17Remove the timing belt, camshaft
sprockets, and timing belt tensioner and idler
pulleys, as described in Section 4.
18Unscrew the upper and middle studs for
the timing belt outer cover screws. Note that
the upper stud simply unscrews from the
cylinder head, but the middle stud is secured
by a bolt.
19Unscrew the two upper rear timing belt
cover securing bolts from the cylinder head.
20Remove the distributor cap and HT leads
with reference to Chapter 5.
21Disconnect the distributor wiring plug.
22Disconnect the coolant hose from the
left-hand end of the cylinder head.
23Unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase
breather tube bracket to the end of the
cylinder head.
24Disconnect the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing, and disconnect the
wiring plugs from the temperature gauge
sender and the coolant temperature sensor
(both situated in the thermostat housing).
25Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
26On X20 XEV models, remove the
camshaft, as described in Section 7.
27Using a Torx socket, and working in the
order shown (see illustrations), loosen all the
cylinder head bolts by a quarter of a turn, then
loosen all the bolts by half a turn, and finally
loosen and remove the bolts. Recover the
washers. Note that the loosening sequence
on X20 XEV differs to other DOHC engines.
28Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder
block. If necessary, tap the cylinder head
gently with a soft-faced mallet to free it from
the block, but do not lever at the mating
faces. Note that the cylinder head is located
on dowels.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•7
8.27B Cylinder head bolt loosening
sequence - (X 20 XEV engines)8.27A Cylinder head bolt loosening
sequence - (20 XEJ and C 20 XE engines)
2B

the cylinder head above the camshaft(s)
through a hose. From here the gases are
drawn into the inlet manifold/throttle body (as
applicable) and/or the air box on the
carburettor (where applicable), where they are
re-burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture, hence
reducing harmful exhaust emissions.
Maintenance
3Certain models have a mesh filter inside the
camshaft cover, which should be cleaned in
paraffin if clogging is evident (see
illustration).
4On high mileage vehicles, particularly when
regularly used for short journeys, a jelly-like
deposit may be evident inside the crankcase
ventilation system hoses. If excessive
deposits are present, the relevant hose(s)
should be removed and cleaned.
5Periodically inspect the system hoses for
security and damage, and renew as
necessary. Note that damaged or loose hoses
can cause various engine running problems
that can be difficult to trace.
6The crankcase breather/dipstick tube can
be unbolted from the cylinder block after
disconnecting the hose. Use a new gasket
when refitting.
3Compression test -
description
3
Description
1If engine performance is poor, or if misfiring
occurs which cannot be attributed to the
ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly, it can give warning of
trouble on a high mileage engine before any
other symptoms become apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
3Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the coil LT (“+15”) wire. Fit the
compression tester to No 1 cylinder spark
plug hole.4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6The difference in pressure between any two
cylinders should be no more than 1.0 bar
(14.5 lbf/in2). If the pressure in any cylinder is
low, pour a teaspoonful of clean engine oil
into the spark plug hole, and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
cylinder bore or piston ring wear was
responsible for the pressure loss. No
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
valves, or a blown head gasket may be to
blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
leaking between them.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT wire.
4Major operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
1The following operations may be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and refitting of oil pressure relief
valve (see Section 30)
b)Removal and refitting of timing belt and
sprockets
c)Removal and refitting of camshaft housing
(SOHC engines)
d)Removal and refitting of camshaft(s)
e)Removal and refitting of cylinder head
f)Removal and refitting of sump
g)Removal and refitting of oil pump
h)Removal and refitting of
piston/connecting rod assemblies
i)Removal and refitting of flywheel
j)Renewal of crankshaft front oil seal
k)Removal and refitting of
engine/transmission mountings
Note: It is possible to renew the crankshaft
rear oil seal with the engine in the vehicle, but
this requires the use of special tools, and is a
difficult operation, due to the lack of working
space. For this reason, this operation is
described with the engine removed from the
vehicle.
5Major operations requiring
engine removal
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle to carry out the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
c)Renewal of crankshaft rear oil seal
6Method of engine removal
The engine may be removed either on its
own, or together with the transmission. Unless
work is also necessary on the transmission, it
is recommended that the engine is removed
on its own. In either case, the engine or
engine/transmission assembly must be lifted
out through the top of the engine
compartment, using a hoist and lifting tackle.
7Engine - removal and refitting,
(leaving transmission in car)
4
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation.If the torque converter is
removed (even partially) from the transmission,
a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will
leak out. To prevent this, when prising the
engine from the transmission and removing it,
be careful to keep the torque converter
pressed firmly into the transmission. If the
transmission is to be removed for some time,
retain the torque converter by bolting a strip of
metal across the bellhousing mating surface.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet (Chapter 11).
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Drain the cooling system, remove the
radiator and transmission fluid cooler hoses
(automatic models), as described in Chapter 3.
5Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1,
remove the oil filter and discard, safely.
6Remove the air cleaner (or air cleaner
cover), the air cleaner trunking, and the air
box from the carburettor or throttle body (as
applicable), referring to Chapter 4A or 4B, if
necessary. On carburettor models,
disconnect the hot air hose from the exhaust
manifold hot air shroud and the air cleaner,
and remove the hose. On automatic models,
disconnect additional wiring, hoses, etc., from
the carburettor, as described in Chapter 4A.
7Remove the alternator, as described in
Chapter 5.
8On models with power steering, remove the
hydraulic pump, as described in Chapter 10.
9Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.
10Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle lever and the bracket on the
carburettor or inlet manifold, as applicable.
11On carburettor models, disconnect the
coolant hoses from the automatic choke
housing, and disconnect the wiring from the
automatic choke heater and the choke
pull-down solenoid (see illustrations). Also
disconnect the air box vacuum pipe from the
carburettor.
2A•8SOHC engine procedures
2.3 Crankcase ventilation filter removed
from camshaft cover -
1.6 litre engine

supported to one side out of the way, thus
avoiding the need to disconnect the relevant
hoses, pipes and wiring.
5If the cylinder head is to be removed
complete with the manifolds, disconnect all
relevant hoses, pipes and wiring from the inlet
manifold and associated components,
referring to Chapter 4A or 4B. On carburettor
models, disconnect the hot air hose from the
shroud on the exhaust manifold. Loosen the
alternator mountings, with reference to
Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper alternator
mounting from the inlet manifold.
6If the inlet manifold is to be left in the engine
compartment, continue as follows, otherwise
go on to paragraph 15.
7Disconnect the air cleaner trunking from the
air box on the carburettor or throttle body, or
directly from the throttle body (as applicable),
and disconnect the camshaft cover breather
hose that runs to the carburettor or throttle
body (as applicable), (see illustration).
8On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models,
disconnect the smaller coolant hose from the
top of the thermostat housing.
9On 1.6 litre models (except C 16 NZ2),
disconnect the breather hose (which runs
from the camshaft cover to the inlet manifold)
at the camshaft cover.
10On fuel injection models, unbolt the two
wiring harnesses earth leads from the
camshaft housing (see illustration).
11On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C 16
NZ2), disconnect the stub hose that connects
the crankcase breather tube to the rear of thecamshaft housing (see illustration).
12Loosen the alternator mountings, referring
to Chapter 5, then unbolt the upper alternator
mounting from the inlet manifold.
13Make a final check to ensure that all
necessary hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected, then unscrew the securing
nuts, noting the location of the engine lifting
bracket, and lift the inlet manifold from the
cylinder head. Ensure that the manifold is
properly supported, taking care not to strain
any of the hoses, pipes and wires, etc., which
are still connected.
14Recover the manifold gasket from the
cylinder head.
15If desired, remove the exhaust manifold,
with reference to Chapter 4C.
16Remove the timing belt and the camshaft
sprocket, as described in Section 11.
17Unscrew the two upper rear timing belt
cover securing bolts from the camshaft
housing.
18Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the coil, labelling them if necessary
to aid refitting, and remove the distributor
cap, referring to Chapter 5. Where applicable,
disconnect the distributor wiring plug.
19If not already done, disconnect the stub
hose that connects the crankcase breather
tube to the camshaft housing. If applicable
unscrew the bolt securing the crankcase
breather tube bracket to the end of the
cylinder head (see illustrations).
20Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing.21On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
hoses from the fuel pump. Be prepared for fuel
spillage, and plug the open ends of the hoses,
to prevent further fuel loss and dirt ingress.
22Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have
been disconnected.
23Working from the outside inwards in a
spiral pattern as shown (see illustration),
loosen all the cylinder head bolts by a quarter
of a turn. Then loosen all the bolts by half a
turn, and finally loosen and remove the bolts.
Recover the washers.
24Lift the camshaft housing from the
cylinder head (see illustration). If necessary,
tap the housing gently with a soft-faced mallet
to free it from the cylinder head, but do not
lever at the mating faces. Note that the
camshaft housing is located on dowels.
25Lift the rocker arms and their thrust pads
from the cylinder head, keeping them in order
so that they can be refitted in their original
positions (see illustrations).
26Lift the hydraulic valve lifters from the
cylinder head, and place them upright in an oil
bath until they are to be refitted (see
illustration). Ensure that the depth of oil is
sufficient to fully cover the valve lifters, and
keep the lifters in order, so that they can be
refitted in their original positions.
27Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder
block (see illustration). If necessary, tap the
cylinder head gently with a soft-faced mallet
to free it from the block, but do not lever at the
mating faces. Note that the cylinder head is
located on dowels.
2A•20SOHC engine procedures
20.7 Disconnecting a camshaft cover
breather hose -
2.0 litre engine20.11 Disconnecting the crankcase
breather tube stub hose -
1.6 litre engine
20.23 Cylinder head bolt loosening
sequence - SOHC engines20.19B Unbolting the crankcase breather
tube bracket from the cylinder head -
2.0 litre model20.19A Disconnecting the crankcase
breather tube stub hose -
2.0 litre engine
20.10 Unbolting the fuel injection wiring
harness earth leads from the camshaft
housing - 2.0 litre engine