1988 OPEL CALIBRA handbrake

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

9
System type
Models without ABS:
1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front discs and rear drums, with vacuum servo assistance, dual
hydraulic circuit split diagonally, pressure-proportioning valves in rear
hydraulic circuit. Cable-operated handbrake on rear wheels
2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear discs, with vacuum servo assistance, dual hydraulic
circuit split diagonally, pressure-proportioning valves in rear hydraulic
circuit. Cable-operated handbrake on rear wheels
All models with Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear discs, with vacuum servo assistance, operated via
hydraulic modulator, dual hydraulic circuit split front/rear, pressure-
proportioning valves in rear hydraulic circuit. Cable-operated
handbrake on rear wheels
Front discs
Type:
1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid or ventilated (as from 10/91)
2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ventilated
Diameter:
1.4, 1.6 and early 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 mm
Late (as from 10/91) 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 mm
Maximum disc run-out (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm
Minimum pad friction material thickness (including backing plate):
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm
Minimum disc thickness after machining: *
1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models (with solid discs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.7 mm
1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models (with vented discs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 mm
2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.0 mm
* When this dimension is reached, only one further new set of brake pads is permissible, then renew the discs
Chapter 9
Braking system
ABS electronic control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .22
ABS hydraulic modulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
ABS relays (ABS-2E systems only) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .23
ABS wheel sensors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Brake fluid pipes and hoses - general, removal and refitting . . . . . . .25
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Front brake disc shield - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Front disc caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Front disc pads - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Handbrake cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Handbrake shoes (rear disc brakes) - inspection, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Master cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Master cylinder (ABS) - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Master cylinder (non-ABS) - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Rear brake backplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rear brake pressure-proportioning valves - removal and refitting . . .24
Rear brake shoes (drum brakes) - inspection, removal and refitting . .6
Rear disc caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Rear disc pads - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Rear wheel cylinder (drum brakes) - removal, overhaul and refitting .12
Vacuum servo - description and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Vacuum servo - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
9•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Rear discs
Type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Solid
Diameter (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 mm
Maximum disc run-out (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.1 mm
Minimum pad friction material thickness (including backing plate):
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.0 mm
Minimum disc thickness after machining (all models) * . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.0 mm
* When this dimension is reached, only one further new set of disc pads is permissible, then renew the discs
Minimum handbrake shoe friction material thickness (lining only)
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 mm
Rear drums
Internal diameter (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 mm
Minimum shoe friction material thickness (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.5 mm above rivet heads
Brake fluid type/specification:
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Lubricants and fluidsin “Weekly checks”
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
ABS hydraulic modulator mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
ABS wheel sensor mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
ABS control unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.51
Brake fluid line unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1612
Caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
Front brake disc securing screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Front brake fluid hose to caliper union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4030
Front caliper bracket to hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9570
Front caliper guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Front caliper mounting (solid disc models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9570
Front caliper to mounting bracket (vented disc models) . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Handbrake lever securing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
Master cylinder mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2216
Master cylinder stop screw (ATE type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Pressure proportioning valve to master cylinder:
ATE type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129
GMF type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4030
Rear brake backplate/stub axle spring:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5037
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 30º
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 15º
Rear brake disc securing screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Rear caliper mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8059
Rear drum securing screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Rear wheel cylinder mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
Vacuum servo support bracket to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2216
Vacuum servo to support bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
1General description
The foot brake operates on all four wheels.
Solid or ventilated disc brakes are fitted at the
front, and self-adjusting drum or solid disc
brakes are fitted at the rear, depending on
model. Actuation is hydraulic, with vacuum
servo assistance. The handbrake is cable-
operated, and acts on the rear wheels only.
The hydraulic system is split into two
circuits. On non-ABS models, the system is
split diagonally, and on ABS models, the
system is split front and rear. If there is a
hydraulic fluid leak in one circuit, the
remaining circuit will still function, so that
some braking capability remains.
The hydraulic fluid supply to the rear brakes
is regulated so that the front brakes alwayslock first under heavy braking. The fluid
pressure to the rear brakes is controlled by
two valves, one for each brake, which are
either screwed into the master cylinder or
mounted on the rear underbody of the vehicle,
depending on model.
The brake servo is of the direct-acting type,
fitted between the pedal and the master
cylinder. The servo is powered by vacuum
developed in the inlet manifold. Should the
servo fail, the brakes will still operate, but
increased pedal pressure will be required.
2Anti-lock braking system
(ABS) - general
1ABS is available as an option for all models.
When the ignition is switched on, an ‘ABS’
symbol illuminates in the instrument panel for
a short time. 2The system comprises an electronic control
unit, roadwheel sensors, hydraulic modulator,
and the necessary valves and relays. Disc
brakes are fitted to all four wheels. The
purpose of the system is to stop wheel(s)
locking during heavy brake applications. This
is achieved by automatic release of the brake
on the locked wheel, followed by re-
application of the brake. This procedure is
carried out several times a second by the
hydraulic modulator.
3The modulator is controlled by the
electronic control unit, which itself receives
signals from the wheel sensors, which monitor
the locked or unlocked state of the wheels.
The two front brakes are modulated
separately, but the two rear brakes are
modulated together.
4The ABS unit is fitted between the brake
master cylinder and the brakes, the vacuum
servo and master cylinder being of similar
type for both non-ABS and ABS models.
9•2Braking system

4Front disc pads - inspection,
removal and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the front roadwheel bolts and
apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of the
vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members.
2Remove the roadwheels. Turn the steering to
full right-hand lock, and check the wear of the
friction material on the right-hand brake pads.
Check that the thickness of the friction material
(including the backing plate) is not less than the
minimum given in the Specifications.
3Turn the steering to full left-hand lock, and
check the left-hand brake pads in the same
way.
4If any brake pad is worn below the specified
minimum thickness, renew all the front pads
as a set.
5If the pads require renewal, continue as
follows according to model.
Removal
1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models
6Note how the anti-rattle springs are located
(see illustration), then drive the upper and
lower pad retaining pins out from the inboard
side of the caliper, using a pin punch.
7Remove the anti-rattle springs (see
illustration).
8Push the pads away from the disc slightly,
then using a pair of pliers, withdraw the
outboard pad (see illustration).
9Withdraw the inboard pad, and the shim
that fits between the pad and the caliper
piston (see illustration).
Refitting
10Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,
but take care not to inhale it. Carefully remove
any rust from the edge of the brake disc.11To accommodate the new thicker pads,
the caliper piston must be depressed fully into
its cylinder bore, using a flat bar of metal such
as a tyre lever. The action of depressing the
piston will cause the fluid level in the reservoir
to rise, so to avoid spillage, syphon out some
fluid using an old hydrometer or a teat pipette.
Refer to the note at the beginning of Section 3.
Do not lever between the piston and disc to
depress the piston.
12Check that the cutaway recesses in the
piston are positioned vertically. If necessary,
carefully turn the piston to its correct position.
13Apply a little brake grease to the top and
bottom edges of the backplates on the new
brake pads.
14Locate the new pads in the caliper,
ensuring that the shim is in place between the
inboard pad and the piston. Ensure that the
friction material faces the disc, and check that
the pads are free to move slightly.
15Locate the anti-rattle springs on the pads,
then insert the pad retaining pins from the
outboard side of the caliper, while depressing
the springs. Tap the pins firmly into the caliper
(see illustration).
16Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
17Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
18Apply the footbrake hard several times to
position the pads against the discs.
19Check and if necessary top-up the brake
fluid level.20New brake pads should be carefully
bedded in and, where possible, heavy braking
should be avoided during the first 100 miles
(160 km) or so after fitting new pads.
2.0 litre models
Removal
21Where applicable, pull the pad wear
sensor from the inboard pad, and disconnect
the wiring at the connector under the wheel
arch, next to the suspension strut (see
illustration). Note the wire routing.
22Using a screwdriver, prise the pad
retaining clip from the outboard edge of the
caliper, noting how it is located (see
illustration).
23Prise out the two guide bolt dust caps
from the inboard edge of the caliper, then
using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew the
9•4Braking system
4.6 Front disc pad anti-rattle springs
(arrowed) - models with solid discs
4.8 Withdrawing the outboard disc pad -
models with solid discs
4.21 Withdrawing the pad wear sensor
from the inboard pad - DOHC model4.15 Fitting a disc pad retaining pin -
models with solid discs4.9 Withdrawing the inboard disc pad and
shim - models with solid discs
4.7 Removing an anti-rattle spring -
models with solid discs

outboard pad and anti-squeal shim that fits
between the pad and the caliper body.
7Withdraw the inboard pad and anti-squeal
shim.
Refitting
8Proceed as described in Section 4,
paragraphs 10 and 11.
9Check that the cutaway recesses in the
pistons are positioned downwards, at
approximately 23°to the horizontal. A
template made of card may be used to check
the setting (see illustration). If necessary,
carefully turn the pistons to their correct
positions.
10Apply a little brake grease to the top and
bottom edges of the backplates on the new
brake pads.
11Locate the new pads and the anti-squeal
shims in the caliper. Ensure that the friction
material faces the disc, and check that the
pads are free to move slightly.
12Locate the anti-rattle spring on the pads,
then insert the pad retaining pins from the
inside edge of the caliper, while depressing
the spring. Tap the pins firmly into the caliper.
13Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
14Proceed as described in Section 4,
paragraphs 17 to 20 inclusive.
6Rear brake shoes (drum
brakes) - inspection, removal
and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1It is recommended that the brake shoes are
inspected when necessary by removing the
drums. This will enable a proper inspection of
the linings to be made, and additionally, the
wheel cylinders can be inspected for leaks. If
preferred, however, a provisional inspection of
the state of wear of the rear shoe linings can
be made by removing the plugs from the
inspection holes in the brake backplates.2Use a torch or inspection lamp, and if
necessary a mirror, to check that the friction
material has not worn down to less than the
specified minimum.
3If any one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, all four rear brake shoes must
be renewed as a set, as follows.
Removal
4Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheels.
5Fully release the handbrake.
6Extract the drum securing screw and
remove the drum. If the drum is tight, remove
the plug from the inspection hole in the brake
backplate, and push the handbrake operating
lever towards the brake shoe to move the
shoes away from the drum. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjuster (see
illustrations).
7Note the location and orientation of all
components before dismantling, as an aid to
reassembly.
8Clean the dust and dirt from the drum and
shoes, but take care not to inhale it.
9Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by depressing the cups and turning
them through 90°using a pair of pliers (see
illustrations). Note that the hold-down pins
are removed through the rear of the brake
backplate.
10Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
operating lever.11The upper and lower return springs may
now be unhooked and the shoes removed
separately, or the assembly of shoes, adjuster
strut and springs may be removed together.
Remove the hub, refer to Chapter 10, if
necessary. Take care not to damage the
wheel cylinder rubber boots. Before removing
the return springs, note the position and
orientation of the springs and adjuster strut.
12If the shoes are to be removed for some
time, fit a stout rubber band or a spring clip to
the wheel cylinder, to prevent the pistons from
being pushed out of their bores. In any event,
do not press the brake pedal while the drum is
removed.
Refitting
13Clean the dust and dirt from the brake
backplate, but take care not to inhale it.
14Apply a small amount of brake grease to
the shoe rubbing areas on the backplate.
15Investigate and rectify any source of
contamination of the linings (wheel cylinder or
hub bearing oil seal leaking).
16Although linings are available separately
(without shoes), renewal of the shoes
complete with linings is to be preferred,
unless the reader has the necessary skills and
equipment to fit new linings to the old shoes.
17If not already done, dismantle the shoes,
strut and springs. Note the position and
orientation of the components. On later
models (1992-on), the brake shoe lower
anchorage has been modified so that it is now
rectangular, necessitating modified brake
shoes and a modified lower return spring (see
illustration).
9•6Braking system
5.9 Checking a rear caliper piston cut
away recess angle with a card template6.6B Push the handbrake operating lever
to move the shoes away from the drum
6.9B . . . then withdraw the cup and spring6.9A Release the shoe hold-down cup . . .
6.6A Extracting a brake drum securing
screw

18If both brake assemblies are dismantled
at the same time, take care not to mix up the
components. Note that the left-hand and
right-hand adjuster components are marked.
The threaded rod is marked “L” or “R”, and
the other “handed” components are colour-
coded black for the left-hand side, and silver
for the right-hand side.
19Dismantle and clean the adjuster strut.
Apply a smear of silicone-based grease to the
adjuster threads.
20Examine the return springs. If they are
distorted, or if they have seen extensiveservice, renewal is advisable. Weak springs
may cause the brakes to bind.
21If a new handbrake operating lever was
not supplied with the new shoes (where
applicable), transfer the lever from the old
shoes. The lever may be secured with a pin
and circlip, or by a rivet, which will have to be
drilled out.
22If the components are to be refitted as an
assembly, assemble the new shoes, springs
and adjuster components. Expand the
adjuster strut to ease fitting (see
illustrations).
23Offer the shoes to the brake backplate. Be
careful not to damage the wheel cylinder
boots, or to displace the pistons. Remember
to remove the rubber band or spring clip from
the wheel cylinder, where applicable.
24When the shoes are in position, insert the
hold-down pins and secure them with the
springs and cups (see illustration).
25Reconnect the handbrake cable, then refit
the hub, and adjust the bearing if the hub was
removed.
26Fitting the shoes and springs together as
an assembly may be too difficult. It is possible
to fit the shoes and secure them with the
hold-down pins and then fit the adjuster strut,
the return springs and adjuster.27Back off the adjuster wheel to reduce the
length of the strut, until the brake drum will
pass over the shoes.
28Make sure that the handbrake operating
lever is correctly positioned, with the pin on
the edge of the shoe web, not riding on top of
it, then refit and secure the brake drum.
29Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
30Adjust the brakes by operating the
footbrake at least fifteen times. A clicking
noise will be heard at the drums, as the
automatic adjusters operate. When the
clicking stops, adjustment is complete.
31Check the handbrake adjustment, as
described in Section 26.
32Refit the roadwheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
33New brake linings should be carefully
bedded-in and, where possible, heavy braking
should be avoided during the first 100 miles
(160 km) or so after fitting new linings.
7Handbrake shoes (rear disc
brakes) - inspection, removal
and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1Although 2.0 litre models are fitted with rear
disc brakes, the handbrake operates
independently of the footbrake, using brake
shoes on the inside of the disc in a similar way
to rear drum brake models.
2To inspect the handbrake shoes on all
SOHC models, it is necessary to remove the
hub/disc, as described in Chapter 10.
3To inspect the handbrake shoes on DOHC
models it will be necessary to remove the
brake disc, as described in Section 10.
4With the hub/disc or the disc (as applicable)
removed, check that the friction material has
not worn down to less than the specified
minimum.
Braking system 9•7
6.22A Right-hand adjuster strut correctly
fitted to shoes
6.24 Rear brake components correctly
assembled (hub removed for clarity)6.22C Adjuster lever spring fitted to
leading shoe6.22B Fitting the upper return spring to
the shoes
6.17 Modified rear brake shoe lower anchorage - 1992-on models
9

5If any one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, all four handbrake shoes must
be renewed as a set, as follows.
SOHC models
Removal
6Clean the dust and dirt from the various
components, but take care not to inhale it.
7Disconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring from the handbrake operating
lever at the brake backplate. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjustment, with
reference to Section 26.
8Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by depressing the cups and turning
them through 90°using a pair of pliers. Note
that the hold-down pins are removed through
the rear of the brake backplate.
9The shoes, adjuster, handbrake operating
lever and return springs can now be removed
together as an assembly.
10Note the position and orientation of all
components, then unhook the upper and
lower return springs from the shoes, and
recover the handbrake operating lever and the
adjuster.
Refitting
11Apply a little brake grease to the threads
of the adjuster, then screw it together to its
minimum length. Also apply a little brake
grease to the shoe rubbing areas on the
lockplate.
12Fit one of the new brake shoes, and
secure it to the backplate with the hold-down
pin, spring and cup.
13Fit the handbrake operating lever in
position.
14Fit the remaining brake shoe, and secure
with the hold-down pin, spring and cup.
15Hook the upper return spring onto the
shoes.
16Fit the adjuster between the lower ends of
the shoes, as noted before dismantling, then
fit the lower return spring (see illustrations).
17Reconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring to the handbrake operating
lever.
18Refit the hub/disc, and adjust the wheel
bearing play, as described in Chapter 10, but
do not refit the roadwheel at this stage.
19Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.20Check the handbrake cable adjustment,
as described in Section 26.
21Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
DOHC models
Removal
22Proceed as described in paragraphs 6
and 7.
23Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by turning the cups through using a
screwdriver. Note that the hold-down pins are
removed through the rear of the brake
backplate. Note also the position and
orientation of all components, then unhook
the upper and lower return springs from the
shoes, and recover the handbrake operating
lever and the adjuster.
Refitting
24Proceed as described in paragraphs 11 to
14 inclusive.
25Hook the lower return spring onto the
shoes.
26Fit the adjuster between the upper ends of
the shoes, as noted before dismantling, then
fit the upper return spring (see illustration).
27Reconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring to the handbrake operating
lever.
28Refit the brake disc as described in
Section 10, but do not refit the roadwheel at
this stage.
29Proceed as described in paragraphs 19
to 21 inclusive.
8Front disc caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3 before proceeding. Before
dismantling a caliper, check that replacement
parts can be obtained, and retain the old
components to compare them with the new
ones. New sealing rings must be used on the
fluid hose union bolt on refitting
Models with solid discs
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
2Remove the brake disc pads, as described
in Section 4.
3Working under the bonnet, remove the
brake fluid reservoir cap, and secure a piece
of polythene over the filler neck with a rubber
band, or by refitting the cap. This will reduce
the loss of fluid during the following
procedure.
4Unscrew the brake fluid hose union bolt
from the rear of the caliper, and disconnect
the hose. Recover the two sealing rings from
the union bolt (one either side of the hose end
fitting). Be prepared for fluid spillage, and plug
the open ends to prevent dirt ingress and
further fluid loss.
5Prise out the two caliper bracket mounting
bolt dust caps from the inboard edge of the
caliper bracket, then using an Allen key or
hexagon bit, unscrew the mounting bolts, and
withdraw the caliper assembly from the
vehicle.
Overhaul
6If desired, the caliper can be overhauled as
follows. Otherwise, go on to paragraph 24 for
details of refitting.
7Brush the dirt and dust from the caliper, but
take care not to inhale it.
8Mount the caliper bracket in a soft-jawed
vice. Then separate the caliper body from the
mounting bracket by pressing the front face of
the caliper body downwards and simultane-
ously sliding the caliper body from the
locating pins on the bracket. Recover the
guide springs from the bracket, noting their
orientation.
9Using a screwdriver, prise the dust seal
retaining clip from the piston dust seal, then
carefully prise off the dust seal.
10Place a thin piece of wood in front of the
piston to prevent it from falling out of its bore
and sustaining damage. Then apply low air
pressure - e.g. from a foot pump - to the
hydraulic fluid union hole in the rear of the
caliper body, to eject the piston from its bore.
9•8Braking system
7.16A Fitting the lower shoe return spring
- SOHC models
7.26 Handbrake shoe adjuster and upper
return spring correctly fitted - DOHC models
7.16B Handbrake shoe components
correctly assembled - SOHC models

Overhaul
6If desired, the caliper can be overhauled as
follows. Otherwise, go on to paragraph 20 for
details of refitting.
7Brush the dirt and dust from the caliper, but
take care not to inhale it.
8Note that no attempt must be made to
separate the two halves of the caliper.
9Using a screwdriver, prise the dust seal
retaining clips from the piston dust seals, then
carefully prise off the dust seals.
10Using a clamp, secure one of the pistons
in its fully retracted position. Then apply low
air pressure (e.g. from a foot pump), to the
hydraulic fluid union hole in the rear of the
caliper body, to eject the remaining piston
from its bore. Take care not to drop the
piston, which may result in damage.
11Temporarily close off the bore of the
removed piston, using a flat piece of wood or
similar improvised tool. Then remove the
clamp from the remaining piston, and again
apply air pressure to the caliper union to eject
the piston.
12Carefully prise the seals from the grooves
in the caliper piston bores, using a plastic or
wooden instrument.
13Inspect the surfaces of the pistons and
their bores in the caliper for scoring, or
evidence of metal-to-metal contact. If evident,
renew the complete caliper assembly.
14If the pistons and bores are in good
condition, discard the seals and obtain a
repair kit, which will contain all the necessary
renewable items. Also obtain a tube of brake
cylinder paste.
15Clean the piston and cylinder bore with
brake fluid or methylated spirit - nothing else!
16Apply a little brake cylinder paste to the
pistons, cylinder bores and piston seals.
17Begin reassembly by fitting the seals to
the grooves in the caliper bores.
18Locate the dust seals in their grooves in
the pistons, then insert the pistons carefully
into their bores until they enter the seals. It
may be necessary to rotate the pistons to
prevent them from jamming in the seals.
19When the pistons have been partially
depressed, engage the dust seals with the
rims of the caliper bores, and fit the retaining
clips.
Refitting
20Refit the caliper and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque, ensuring that the
ABS sensor bracket is in position, where
applicable.
21Reconnect the brake fluid pipe to the
caliper, and tighten the union nut.
22Refit the disc pads, as described in
Section 5.
23Remove the polythene from the brake
fluid reservoir filler neck and bleed the
relevant brake hydraulic circuit, as described
in Section 3.
24Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
10Brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
3
Inspection
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant roadwheel bolts. If
checking a front disc, apply the handbrake,
and if checking a rear disc, chock the front
wheels, then jack up the relevant end of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
2Where applicable, check that the brake disc
securing screw is tight. Then fit a spacer
approximately 10.0 mm (0.4 in) thick to one of
the roadwheel bolts, and refit and tighten the
bolt in the hole opposite the disc securing
screw (see illustration).
3Rotate the brake disc, and examine it for
deep scoring or grooving. Light scoring is
normal, but if excessive, the disc should be
removed and either renewed or machined
(within the specified limits) by an engineering
works.
4Using a dial gauge, or a flat metal block and
feeler blades, check that the disc run-out does
not exceed the figure given in the Specifications.
Measure the run-out 10.0 mm (0.4 in) in from the
outer edge of the disc. 5On all SOHC models, if the rear disc run-
out is excessive, check the rear wheel bearing
adjustment, as described in Chapter 10.
6If the front disc run-out (all models), or the
rear disc run-out (DOHC models), is
excessive, remove the disc as described later
in this Section. Check that the disc-to-hub
surfaces are perfectly clean. Refit the disc and
check the run-out again.
7If the run-out is still excessive, the disc
should be renewed.
8To remove a disc, continue as follows.
Front disc
Removal
9Where applicable, remove the roadwheel
bolt and spacer used when checking the disc.
10Remove the disc pads, (Section 4).
11On 2.0 litre models, unscrew the two
securing bolts and remove the caliper
bracket.
12Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the disc from the hub, where applicable tilting
it to clear the brake caliper (see illustration).
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
make sure that the mating faces of the disc
and hub are perfectly clean, and apply a little
locking fluid to the threads of the securing
screw. Refit the disc pads, (Section 4).
Rear disc - SOHC models
14On these models, the disc is integral with
the rear hub, and removal and refitting is
described in Chapter 10.
9•10Braking system
9.5A Withdrawing a rear caliper mounting
bolt . . .10.2 Refit a wheel bolt and spacer
(arrowed) opposite the disc securing screw
(A) before checking brake disc run-out
10.12 Removing a disc securing screw -
SOHC model
9.5B . . . which also secures the ABS
sensor bracket - DOHC model