1988 FIAT TEMPRA wheel

O 23. Have your assistant press down firmly on the brake pedal while you check the rear brake flexible hoses for bulges, splits or other deterioration.
o 24. Check the fuel tank for leaks or corrosion. Remember also to check the fuel filler cap
-
a correctly sealing filler cap is a part of the MoT test.
O 25. Examine the handbrake mechanism. Frayed or broken cables or worn mounting points, either to the bodywork or in the linkage will all be failure points.
o 26. Check each of the rear wheel
bearings as for the fronts.
o 27. Spin each rear wheel and check that neither the wheel bearings nor the brakes are binding. Pull on and let off the handbrake and check once again to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is releasing.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Only run the car out of doors.
• Beware of burning yourself on a hot exhaust system.
o 28. While you are out from under the car, but with the rear end still raised off the ground, run the engine. Hold a rag over the end of the exhaust
pipe and listen for blows or leaks in the system. You can now get back under the car and investigate further if necessary.
o 29. Check the exhaust system mountings and check for rust, corrosion or holes in the rear part of the system.
o 30. Check the rear brake back plate or calipers (as appropriate) for any signs of fluid leakage.
o 31. Check the insides and the outsides of the tyres as well as the tyre treads for damage, as for the front tyres.
PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS
This is an area that is impossible to
check accurately at home. However,
the following rule-of-thumb tests will
give you a good idea whether your car
is likely to fail or not.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: If you
feel that your car is likely to fail
because of the emission test, have
your MoT testing station carry out
the emission part of the test first so
that if it fails, you don't waste
money on having the rest of the
test carried out. Q
O 1. PETROL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1973 AND DIESEL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1979 only have to pass visible smoke check. Rev the engine to about 2,500 rpm (about half maximum speed) for 20 seconds and then allow it to return to idle. If too much smoke is emitted (in the opinion of the tester) the car will fail.
O 2.DIESEL ENGINES FROM 1 AUGUST 1979 The engine will have to be taken up to maximum revs several times by the tester, so make certain that your timing belt is in good condition, otherwise severe damage could be caused to your engine. If the latter happens, it will be your responsibility!
FACT FILE: VEHICLE EMISSIONS

PETROL
ENGINED VEHICLES WITHOUT
CATALYSER

Vehicles first used before 1 August 1973

• visual smoke check only.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1973 and 31 July 1986

• 4.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1986 and 31 July 1992

• 3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.
PETROL ENGINED VEHICLES FITTED WITH
CATALYTIC

CONVERTERS
i

Vehicles first used from 1 August 1992
(K-registration on)

• All have to be tested at an MoT Testing Station specially equipped to
handle cars fitted with catalytic converters whether or not the vehicle
is fitted with a 'cat'. If
the
test, or the garage's data, shows that the
vehicle was not fitted with a 'cat' by the manufacturer, the owner is
permitted to take the vehicle to
a
Testing Station not equipped for
catalysed cars, if he/she prefers to do so (up to 1998-only). Required
maxima are
-
3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million,
unburned hydrocarbons. The simple emissions test (as above) will be
supplemented by a further check to make sure that the catalyst is
maintained in
good
and efficient working order.
• The tester also has to check that the engine oil is up to a specified
temperature before carrying out the test. (This is because 'cats' don't
work properly at lower temperatures
-
ensure your engine is fully
warm!)
DIESEL ENGINES'EMISSIONS
STANDARDS

• The Tester will have to rev your engine hard,
several times. If it is not in good condition, he is
entitled to refuse to test it. This is the full range of
tests, even though all may not apply to your car.

Vehicles first used before 1 August, 1979

• Engine run at normal running temperature; engine speed taken to
around 2,500 rpm (or half
governed
max. speed, if lower) and held for
20 seconds. FAILURE, if engine emits dense blue or black smoke for
next 5 seconds, at tick-over. (NOTE: Testers are allowed to be more
lenient with pre-1960 vehicles.)

Vehicles first used on or after 1 August, 1979

• After checking engine condition, and with the engine at normal
running temperature, the engine will be run up to full revs between
three and six times to see whether your engine passes the prescribed
smoke density test. (For what it's worth
-
2.5k for non-turbo cars; 3.0k
for turbo diesels. An opacity meter probe will be placed in your car's
exhaust pipe and this is not something you can replicate at home.)
Irrespective of the meter readings, the car will fail if
smoke
or vapour
obscures the view of other road users.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: The diesel engine test puts a lot of stress on the
engine. It is IMPERATIVE that your car's engine is properly serviced,
and the cam belt changed on schedule, before you take it in for the
MoT test. The tester is entitled to refuse to test the car if
he
feels that
the engine is not in serviceable condition and there are a number of
pre-Test checks he may carry out.

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'

COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.

ruvj
uivjh I
uuluj
^ Use a magnetic screw-
driver or place some thick
grease on the end of the
screwdriver to prevent the screws from falling
-

especially when replacing the lens.
7H. Undo screws (A) and (B), pull out the light unit (D) and
undo the connector (E). The height of the beam can later be
adjusted with screw (C).
71. Alternatively: Work from under the front of the car, leaving
the unit in place.
Undo the four screws holding the cover in place. Note that
you do not need to remove the electrical connection from the
cover. On one version of these lights, you have to release the
ends of the spring clips (B) and swing them back to remove
the bulb.
7J. On another version,
you unhook the bulb
retainer (G), remove
the bulb and
disconnect the bulb
cable (L). When
refitting, ensure that
the cut-out in the bulb
base-plate (H) is
located correctly.
REAR LIGHTS
-
TIPO
7K. Open the
hatchback door and
remove the three
screws (arrowed)
holding the lens in
place.
7L. From the inner side
of the light unit, take
out the two screws
(arrowed) holding the
lens to the unit. Take
care not to strain the
wiring.
7M. These are the positions of the bulbs. All of the bulbs are
released by pushing in slightly, turning anti-clockwise and
pulling out when free.
REAR LIGHTS -
TEMPRA
SALOON
7N. Open the boot
lid and remove the
screw (F).
-fog light bulb (21W)
70
70. Lift the lens away. The bulbs are removed as described in
7M.
REAR LIGHTS
-
TEMPRA ESTATE
7P. Open the
tailgate door and
remove the two
screws (A).
From inside the
car, remove the
spare wheel, if
fitted, open the
side compartment and remove its covers. Unscrew the knurled
nut (A) which fits on to the captive screw (B) mounted on the
lens. Use your other hand to prevent the lens from falling.
Now, pull off the lens and remove the two knurled nuts (C) to
give you access to the bulb holder.
A - tail-light
bulb (5W)
B - stop light
bulb (21W)
C - direction
indicator bulb
(21W)
D - reversing light bulb (21W) E
A - reversing
bulb (21W)
B - direction
indicator bulb (21W)
C - stop light bulb
(21W)
D
-
tail-light bulb
(5W)
E - fog light bulb
(21W)

FACT FILE: FUSES contd. 7h. CERTAIN TIPO MODELS: Other
fuses are i) a set of three fuses (15A, 30A
and 40A) protecting the air conditioning,
when fitted, located in the engine bay,
near the horns (A). Press in the two sides
(arrowed) to remove the cover.
And ii) there is a 60A
fuse, located near the
fuse box, protecting
the fan on Diesel
vehicles.
7i. On latest vehicles,
there are two 10A
fuses (a) protecting
the electric petrol
pump and the
Lambda sensor
preheater. Remove
the screws (arrowed)
and the cover.
7g. TEMPRAS WITH
AIR CONDITIONING
30A The Air conditioning
system fuse is housed on
a bracket on the engine
compartment bulkhead.
The following two fuses
are located under the
front crossmember near
the right headlight.
3A High-speed radiator fan relay.
7.5A Electromagnetic air conditioner compressor clutch.
The relays housed near the fuses are part of the air
conditioner circuit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Replace the sealed cover carefully
after changing a fuse. Ensure the gasket is correctly
positioned and the screws are fully tightened.
PART B: ENGIIME AND COOLING SYSTEM
Q Job 8. Change engine oil and filter.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Refer to the section on ENGINE OILS and RAISING

THE
CAR SAFELY in Chapter f, Safety First! before

carrying
out this work.
• You must wear plastic gloves when changing the oil.

Used
engine oil can severely irritate the skin and
is
carcinogenic.
Used diesel engine oil is an even greater

health
hazard.
•
Oil
drain plugs are often over-tightened, so take

care
that the spanner does not slip.

Take
care that the effort needed to undo the drain

plug
doesn't tip the car off its supports
-
remember to

use
wheel
chocks!

rtj&^si ' # °nly dram theu 0,7 fr°m a ff (y warm engine
-
but not
so

hot that the oil can scald!
• Allow the oil to drain for at least ten minutes before
replacing the sump plug.
• You can use this time by renewing the oil filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The plug is a taper-fit and can
become very tight, necessitating the use of a long drive-
bar for its removal.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: On side-mounted drain holes,
as the oil empties, the angle of 'spurt' will change, so be
prepared to move the container. E3

8A. The
sump drain

plug is on
the
under-side of the

sump on
petrol
engines, and on the

side
of the sump
(timing belt end of
engine) on the

diesel.
The plug has

a
recessed
hexagonal head and you will need either a sump plug
spanner, a large Allen key, or a 'Hex' headed socket fitted to a

socket
wrench.
8B. Once the initial
tightness of the
plug has been
released, unscrew
the last few turns
by hand, holding
the plug in place
until the threads
have cleared, then
withdrawing it
smartly to allow oil to flow into the receptacle beneath.
expert22
8C. On all engines,
including diesel, the
oil filter is mounted
low on the front of
the engine block,
towards the timing
belt. Use a strap or
chain wrench to
unscrew the old
filter. Note that
there may be a lot of oil spilt as the filter seal is broken, so
keep the drip tray beneath it.
/yifl http://rutracker.org

• Job 25. Check ignition timing.
_ FACT FILE: IGNITION SYSTEM TYPES
Two different types of electronic ignition
systems have been fitted to the petrol
engines covered by this manual.
The earlier Breakerless Inductive Discharge System can
be adjusted. Its distributor is fitted as shown in illus-
tration 25A.
The later, Digiplex 2 system, has an integrated ignition
and fuel injection control system and any checks and
adjustments will need to be carried out by your FIAT
dealership with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
See Job 28.
MAGNETI MARELLI BREAKERLESS INDUCTIVE
DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
CHECK VACUUM AND MECHANICAL ADVANCE SYSTEMS
25A. This is the
location of the break-
erless electronic
ignition components in
the car. The distributor
(1) is fitted to the front
of the block while the
ignition coil
(2)
is
alongside the battery.
25B. This type of distributor can be
identified by the electronic ignition
control module (a) and the vacuum
advance unit (b), not fitted to other
ignition types.
• the engine must be at
ature.
• the idle speed/mixture/CO adjustments must be correct

-
see Job 35.
• Start the engine and run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Point the timing light at the crankshaft pulley timing mark
and ensure that the mark lines up with the 10 degrees Before
Top Dead Centre (BTDC) mark on the timing belt cover.
• If the reading is 'out' stop the engine and slacken the clamp
nut on the distributor so that the distributor can just be turned
with firm hand pressure.
• Turn the distributor a very small amount, restart the engine
and check again.
• Repeat the procedure until, with the engine running, the
crankshaft pulley timing mark lines up with the 10 degree
BTDC mark. Then tighten the nut securing the distributor to
the engine block.
You can now check the vacuum advance system as follows:
• increase the engine speed to approximately 2,000 rpm and,
with the timing light pointed at the timing marks, make a
mental note of the position of the mark on the crankshaft
pulley in relation to the timing belt cover. If the position is no
further advanced than 10 degrees BTDC, the mechanical
advance system inside the distributor is probably seized.
• stop the engine, reconnect the vacuum advance pipe and
repeat the procedure.
• you should see a further amount of advance taking place
and if not, the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance
mechanism is probably punctured.
• if either or both of these faults have occurred, your engine
will run uneconomical^ and inefficiently and it may pay you to
fit a new distributor.
MAGNETI MARELLI DIGIPLEX 2 ELECTRONIC
IGNITION
25D. This is the layout of the Digiplex ignition system, viewed
from over the engine looking towards the left-side of the car.
The ignition coil (1) is adjacent to the battery. The electronic
control unit (2) is nearer to the engine bay sidewall. The
distributor (3) is mounted on the end of the cylinder head and
the rpm and Top Dead Centre (TDC) sensor (4) is located on
the crankshaft cover on the flywheel side.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before
checking the ignition timing,
you must be certain that:
• the pipe from the distributor
vacuum unit is disconnected
from the distributor and plugged.
its normal operating temper-
instructions. The
timing light should
always be connected
to No.
1
spark plug
lead
-
the one nearest
the timing belt end of
the engine.
48
25C. To check the ignition timing, connect up a stroboscopic
lamp, either as shown on the inset or in accordance with the
manufacturer's

FACT FILE: DIGIPLEX DISTRIBUTOR
REMOVAL
25E. If the distributor has to be removed
for any reason, it is ESSENTIAL that the
PRECISE position of the rotor arm in
relation to the distributor body and the
position of the distributor body (2) in relation to the
cylinder head
-
via the spacer (1)
-
are clearly marked so
that they can be
replaced in
EXACTLY the
same position.
Note that the
locator
(arrowed) only
gives an approx-
imate, not a
precisely correct
location of the
spacer.
25F. D INSIDE
INFORMATION:

Use
touch-up
paint
and
let it
dry before
removing the
unit. D
SETTING THE RPM AND TDC SENSOR POSITION
25G. This job can not
be carried out without
the FIAT special tool
illustrated. The sensor
is correctly positioned
when the engine is
produced and to
prevent accidental
tampering, one of the
two bolts holding the
sensor in place is a
shear bolt and will have to be renewed if removed.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The slots in the distributor body are
NOT used to alter the advance setting, as on a conven-
tional distributor. This operation is carried out by the
position of the TDC sensor
-
see later.
CHECKING THE IGNITION ADVANCE can be carried out in an
approximate manner using the same method as described in

25C.
However, you must make sure that the following steps

are
taken:
•
the
vacuum pipe between the electronic control unit and

the
inlet manifold must remain connected and be in good
condition
-
neither blocked nor split.
•
the
engine must be at its normal operating temperature.
•
the
idle speed/mixture/CO adjustments must be correct
-

see Job 35.
•
with
the engine idling at between 800 and 900 rpm, the

mark on
the crankshaft pulley should be at approximately 12
degrees BTDC.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The only marks are for 0, 4 and 10
degrees BTDC, so you will have to make a guess at the
correct position for 12 degrees.
FACT FILE: TIMING MARKS
y-; • It appears that some earlier engines
H. j may be fitted with different types of
J timing marks. There might be a metal
pointer fitted to the timing belt cover.
Other engines may have their timing marks in the
flywheel housing, so that you need to take out a rectan-
gular rubber bung and look out for the fixed timing
mark on the flywheel housing and the timing settings

on
the flywheel itself.
• It always helps to paint all of the timing marks with
white paint or typists' correction fluid so that they are
easier to see when the timing light is operating.
1. Line up the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the 0
degrees (TDC) mark on the timing belt cover. See 25C.
2. Without moving the crankshaft from this position, undo the
screws holding the rpm and TDC sensor to the sensor carrier
plate. Fit the tool no. 1895898000 in place of the sensor.
Check that the flywheel pin or lug (3) must fit in the groove of
the tool and the bolts must tighten easily. If not, carry out the
following procedure:
3. Slacken the bolts securing the carrier plate behind the
sensor.
4. Move the plate so that the tool slips freely into the sensor's
hole and the bolts tighten easily.
5. Tighten the bolts holding the sensor carrier plate in place.
6. Remove the tool and refit the sensor.
ON BOTH TYPES: As the distributor is turned (clockwise to
advance, anti-clockwise to retard), the timing mark on the
flywheel will be seen to move relative to the pointers. Move
the distributor so the timing marks are aligned correctly, and
retighten the clamp nut or bolts.
• Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s.
26A. Depending on
your Tipo or Tempra
model, access to the
alternator belt and
adjustment fixings will
probably be possible
from the engine bay.
V-BELTS ONLY
Check the belt, and if there is any sign of cracking, 'polishing',
fraying or severe wear on the inner face, replace it. The belt
should deflect by about 10 mm when firm thumb pressure is
applied to the belt between the pulleys in the direction of the
arrow. Too little tension and the belt might slip; too much,
and belt and bearing wear will increase.

PART F: STEERING AMD SUSPENSION
G Job 42. Check front wheel bearings.

In
order to check for wear:
• raise the front of the car on axle stands (see Chapter 1,
Safety First!)
• place the gearbox in neutral
• pull the handbrake securely on and chock the rear wheels

Try
spinning each wheel (as far as possible with a front-drive
car), feeling for rough rotation. Rock the wheel about its
centre, feeling for excess bearing play.
D INSIDE INFORMATION: If a wheel bearing is worn, you
will normally hear a noise on the outer, loaded bearing
when cornering. D
G Job 43. Check front suspension.
BOTTOM BALL JOINT
Jack
up
the car underneath the suspension lower arm
(wishbone), so that the wheel is two inches off the ground.
See Chapter
1,
Safety First.
SUSPENSION STRUT/SHOCK ABSORBER
43D. Examine the shock
absorber, which is enclosed
inside the coil spring, for
leaks, looking for signs of a
'damp' oil stain seeping from
underneath the top half of
the shock absorber body.
The top of the strut/shock
absorber is mounted in a
rubber bush which can be
checked for softness,
cracking or deterioration
from inside the engine bay.
43A. Place a long,
rigid bar between

the
ground and the
bottom of the tyre
tread, and carefully
'jog' the wheel
upwards repeatedly
while a helper looks

at and
feels the
lower balljoint for vertical movement. The helper should NOT

lie
under the car, and you should be careful not to rock the

car
off
the jack.
Also examine the ball joint gaiter for any

damage
or leakage of grease
-
a simple, visual examination.

You will
have to replace the wishbone assembly if the gaiter is
damaged. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements for
information.
TRACK CONTROL ARM INNER BUSHES
43B. Further raise the car

and
support it on an axle

stand
under the subframe so

that the
suspension on the

side being
checked can hang
free. Lever between the arm

and
subframe, looking for
excessive movement of the
bushes. Some cushioned
flexing
is
normal. See

Chapter
6, Repairs and
Replacements for bush
replacement information.

One bush is
at the front

inner end
of the wishbone...
ANTI-ROLL BAR BUSHES
43E. Check the outer
mountings, on the
suspension, and the body
mountings.
• Job 44. Check steering column, rack and TREs.
44A. Drive the car on to car
ramps, firmly apply the
handbrake and chock the
rear wheels. Get your helper
to sit inside the car, turn the
ignition key to the 'MAR'
(ON) position to release the
steering column lock. Now,
move the steering wheel
repeatedly about 100 mm (4
in.) each way while someone
checks for free movement in
BOUNCE TEST: Try 'bouncing' each front corner of the car in
a rhythmical motion, pressing down as hard as you can. When
you let go, the movement should continue for no more than
one-and-a-half rebounds. If it does so, this is a sure indication
that the shock absorber is
worn and should be replaced.
If one of the front shock
absorbers needs replacing,
replace both, for safety
reasons.