1988 FIAT TEMPRA brakes

Job 14. Hydraulic clutch
components.

Later Tipos
and Tempras used a hydraulic clutch in place of

the cable
arrangement used on the early cars. No adjustment

is
possible.
a - clutch fluid reservoir b - master cylinder supply hose c - boot d - master cylinder e - mounting bracket f - cover
a
-
threaded cap b - seals c - master cylinder body
d - slave cylinder body e - bleed screw cap f - bleed screw
Job 14-2
g h i
i k
• Step 1: This is the layout of the hydraulic clutch compo-
nents. Note that the master cylinder supply hose (b) is a low
pressure hose. The method of disconnecting the rigid hose (k)
and the flexible hose (h) is very similar to that for disconnecting
the brake hoses in PART H: BRAKES, Jobs
15
and 16
Removal of the master cylinder or slave cylinder, should
replacement become necessary, can be easily discerned from
the drawing shown here. Note that, if the clevis pin which
holds the master cylinder to the pedal is worn, it should be
replaced. The master cylinder bolts can be reached only after
the cover (f) has been undipped and removed. The slave
cylinder is held to the gearbox casing by the bracket (e) and
must first be disconnected from the clutch arm (I).
• Step 2: These are the internal components of the clutch
master and slave cylinders. Because the clutch components are
not as safely critical as brake components, it is acceptable to
- mounting bracket - vibration damper - rigid hose - clutch operating arm Job 14-1
• Step 9:
Remove the
bearing
retention
cirdip from the

stub axle
(also,
Job 13-1, part
«...
- slave cylinder - flexible hose • Step 10:
...and press out

the old
bearing

{Job
13-1,

part c).
Note

the
inner race
usually breaks

free and
has to

be drifted
off

the hub,
as
shown.
Q Step 11: Clean the stub axle and press in the new
bearing, putting pressure on the outer track only. Refit

the
cirdip.
Q Step 12: Now press the hub into the bearing using a

suitable
tube putting pressure on the inner track.
• Step 13:
Continue the
assembly in the

reverse
order of
dismantling and

see
Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures

for torque
settings.

Use
new drive-

shaft to
hub nuts

and stake
them in

to the
shaft
groove. New

caliper fixing
bolts must also be used.

extend their life by fitting new seals, when necessary. Note that
you will need to use internal circlip pliers to remove the circlip
from the pushrod on the master cylinder in order to dismantle it.
When you need to bleed the clutch hydraulic system, follow
the procedure described for brake bleeding in PART H:
BRAKES, Job 17. Because the circuit is far simpler, the
procedure itself is likely to be both simpler and quicker to carry
out. Note that the bleed screw (f) is normally covered by a cap
(e) which must be removed before the bleed screw can be
slackened.
PART C: COOLING SYSTEM
PART C: Contents - ' B SI s |§w ^ - -
-
silt Job 1: Component positions. Job 4. Thermostat
-
replacement.
Job 2. Radiator and cooling fan
-
replacement. Job 5. Coolant pump
-
replacement.
Job 3. Thermostatic switch
-
testing and replacing.
Job 1. Component positions.
1 - bottom hose - radiator to pump 2 - top, hose - radiator to thermostat 3 - radiator
4 - thermostat 5
-
water pump 6 - thermostatic switch 7 - cooling fan
Type 1
1 - expansion tank 2 - hose, tank to pump 3 - bottom hose, radiator to thermostat 4 - top hose, thermostat to radiator 5 - hose, radiator to expansion tank
6 - thermostat/housing assembly 7 - delivery pipe, thermostat to pump 8
-
water pump 9 - cooling fan 10
-
thermostatic switch 11 - radiator core Type 2
Type 2: ...and these the diesel engine's components. Type 1: These are the components of the petrol engine
cooling system...
Job 2. Radiator and cooling fan -
replacement.
• Step 1: Unplug the electrical connections from the fan
motor and thermostatic switch.
• Step 2: Drain the cooling system and disconnect all
hoses from the radiator.
Q Step 3: Undo the mounting bolts and remove the
radiator/fan assembly from the car.
• Step 4: Undo the fan
mounting fixing bolts and
remove the complete
assembly from the radiator.
Also see illustration Type 1
(petrol), or Type 2
(diesel).
Q Step 5: Refit in reverse
order.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The fan assembly can be
removed from the car without disturbing the radiator if
required. New fan units are supplied by FIAT complete
with the mounting bracket, ready to bolt on. D
Job 3. Thermostatic switch -
testing and replacing.
• Step 1: The thermostatic switch which controls the fan is
located in the radiator header tank. See illustration Type
1,

part 6 (petrol), or Type 2, part
10
(diesel) .
• Step 2: To remove, drain the cooling system, disconnect
the switch and unscrew it from the radiator.
• Step 3: H INSIDE INFORMATION! Test the switch
using a test bulb and two leads. Connect one to a
battery terminal and the other to one of the switch
terminals. Now connect a wire between the remaining
switch and battery terminal. (9

turning while undoing the large nut that secures the top
mounting
-
or ask your FIAT dealer to do it for you. B
• Step 8: Refer to Job
1-1B.
Pull off the mounting (3),
spacer (4), rubber buffer (5), stop buffer and sleeve (6) and the
coil spring (2).
FACT FILE: COIL SPRINGS
If a coil spring is cracked, sagged or heavily
rusted, replace the front springs AS A PAIR.
FIAT springs are colour-coded with a stripe
of either yellow or green paint. Use only a
matching pair.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Never undo the centre nut (Steps 7 and 8) without
using a suitable spring compressor.
• The power contained within the spring is enormous
and extremely dangerous.
• If you are not trained or experienced in this part of
the job, leave it to your FIAT dealer.
Q Step 9: Refit all components in reverse order, making
sure the coil spring is properly seated with the large coil at the
bottom and the end of the coil, tight against the stop in the
spring seat. Tighten to the specified tightening torques (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures) only when the car is back on
its wheels.
Job 12. Front wheel bearing
replacement.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The wheel bearing will probably be
destroyed as it is removed from the hub.
The hub and bearing can
be drifted out from the hub
carrier.
• If you have difficulty doing so, you could remove the
hub carrier and take it to your FIAT dealer for bearing
replacement.
• Step 1: H INSIDE INFORMATION:
• The hub nut (see illustration Job
12-9,
part f) requires
a great deal of torque to undo!
• Lever off the dust cap and slacken the centre hub nut
(see illustration Job 1-1B, part 13) while the car is still
on the ground.
• Try to lift the staking from the groove in the drive-
shaft. If it won't all come clear, don't worry! It will unroll
as the nut is undone.
• You will need an extra-long lever (about half-a-metre
long) to undo the hub nut.
• Slacken the wheel bolts while the car is on the
ground. H
Q Step 2: Raise and support the car on axle stands. Remove
the road wheel. Remove the hub/drive-shaft nut.
• Step 3: Undo the brake caliper and the bracket retaining
bolts. Move the caliper clear, still connected to the hose but
not putting weight on it. See PART H: BRAKES, Job 3.
• Step 4: Undo the
two bolts and remove
the brake disc...
• Step 5: ...and
then the disc shield
(arrowed).
• Step 6: Undo the
nut and disconnect
the trackrod balijoint
using a splitter tool.
See Job 3.
Q Step 7: Remove the two bolts securing the hub carrier to
the shock absorber and pull the hub carrier clear. See Job
11.

• Step 8: Undo the pinch bolt fixing the lower wishbone
balijoint pin to the hub carrier and part the carrier from the
wishbone. See Job 7.
• Step 9: Carefully withdraw the hub carrier
-
complete
with hub and bearing (parts b to e, inclusive)
-
from the drive-
shaft CV joint (a) and take to the bench.
Q Step 10: Using a
suitable press or a
large vice, push the
hub (see illustration
Job
12-9,
part e)
from the carrier
(part d)
E3 INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: This is the
point at which the
bearing will
probably be
destroyed, the outer
remaining in the
hub carrier and the
inner on the hub. H
• Step 11: Start
the separation of the
bearing inner track by
use of a hammer and
keen bladed chisel...

Job 13. Rear shock absorbers and
coil springs - replacement.
Q Step 12: ...then complete the
operation by using a standard
puller with a strong packing piece
(arrowed) for the puller shaft to
'push' against.
G Step 13: Remove the circlip
(see illustration Job
12-9,
part b)
and drift or press out the bearing
outer track from the hub carrier.
• Step 14: Check the hub
carrier for serviceability and
replace if it is in any way
damaged.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! The
new bearing is a complete
sealed unit and requires no
extra lubrication. D
• Step 15: Press the bearing
into the carrier using pressure on
the outer track ONLY (a). Fit the
circlip to retain it.
• Step 17:
Reassemble the front
suspension and brakes

in
the reverse order of
removal. See relevant

Jobs
for detailed infor-
mation. Use a NEW
hub nut fitted as
shown.
FACT FILE: STAKING THE HUB NUT
• Step 18: Use a cold

chisel
with an edge
ground to an angle of
about 60 degrees to stake

the
collar of the nut. USE

A
NEW NUT EACH TIME
IT IS REPLACED.
Q Step 19: Make sure the staked-down section of the collar

fits
in the stub axle

slot
in the opposite
direction to the
direction of the

nut
rotation, as
shown.
• Step 1: Refer to the drawings Job 1-1Cand 1-1D.
• Step 2: Leave the weight on the suspension by means of
a jack under the trailing arm (see illustration Job
1-1C,
part
• Step 3: Undo the nuts (see illustration Job
1-1D,
part
6)

and washers retaining the shock absorber (Job
1-1D,
part 5).
• Step 4: Pull the shock absorber off the top and bottom
mounting studs and carefully lower the jack to release the
pressure on, and then withdraw the coil spring. See also
Job 11
O Step 5: Refit in reverse order making sure that the coil
spring is properly seated top and bottom and that the shock
absorber nuts are tightened to the correct torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Job 14. Rear suspension and
wheel bearings - replacement.
Carry out this Job in connection with illustration Job
1-1C
and
1-1D.
• Step 1: IMPORTANT NOTE:
The trailing arms come
complete with bearings and
spacers (arrowed) as an
assembly. If the bearings are
defective, or the arm is cracked
or distorted, or showing signs
of wear or corrosion on the
wheel side, the whole assembly must be changed.
Q Step 2: Support the rear of the car on axle stands so that
the suspension hangs free. Remove the road wheels.
• Step 3: Remove the exhaust system. See PART F: FUEL
AND EXHAUST, Job 14.
• Step 4: Remove the fuel tank. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST, Job 10
• Step 5: Disconnect the brake pipes from the four-way
union and plug the ends to prevent excessive fluid loss.
Q Step 6: Slacken the cable adjustment under the
handbrake lever and disconnect the rear cable ends from the
equaliser. See PART H: BRAKES, Job 18
/ • Step 7: • Using a trolley
jack under the rear end of
the trailing arm to be
removed, compress the spring enough to undo the
mounting nuts and remove the shock absorber.
• Slowly lower the jack and remove the spring. This
allows you to use the weight of the car to help you
compress the spring
-
a difficult task otherwise!
Q Step 16: Press the hub into
the bearing, pushing ONLY on the
inner track with a suitable piece of
strong tube (1).

• Step 8:
Support the
axle beam with
the jack and
undo the
mounting bolts
(arrowed and
indicated by
operator with
socket bar).
Lower the
complete unit
from the car.
IMPORTANT NOTE: In this shot, the top shock absorber
mountings have been disconnected, leaving the shock
absorber fitted to the suspension and the coil springs in
place. We recommend 'our' approach, covered in Step 7!
• Step 9: Undo the bolts securing the anti-roll bar and
remove it. (See Job 9.) Disconnect the brake pipes from the
side to be worked on and remove the brake drum.
Q Step 10: Remove the hub cap (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part 13) by carefully tapping and levering with a screwdriver.
• Step 11: Undo the hub nut (see illustration Job 1-1D,
part
10).

PART H: BRAKES
• Step 12: A special tool
(1857508000) or a VERY
strong Allen key (a) will be
required to reach into the
hub (b), and plenty of
leverage!
Q Step 13: Remove the
hub and inspect the bearing
for roughness or noise or
roughness when turning it by hand.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! The bearing is lubricated for
life and is only supplied as an assembly with the hub. B
• Step 14: Inspect the stub axle pin (see illustration Job
1-

1D, part
12)
for any signs of damage or distortion. Replace if
in doubt.
Q Step 15: Refitting is the reverse of removal but note the
following:
• See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for all tightening
torques as you progress through the assembling.
• Use new hub nuts and fully tighten once the suspension is
mounted to give you stability.
• Refer to PART H: BRAKES when refitting the brake parts
and bleeding the brakes.
PART H: Contents %
Job 1. Understanding Tipo/Tempra brakes.
Job 2. Front brake pads
-
replacement.
Job 3. Front brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 4. Front brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 5. Rear brake shoes
-
replacement.
Job 6. Rear wheel cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 7. Rear brake disc pads
-
replacement.
Job 8. Rear brake caliper
-
replacement.
Job 9. Rear brake disc
-
replacement.
Job 10. Master cylinder
-
replacement.
Job 11. Servo check
-
remove and refit.
Job 12. Pressure regulating valve, non-ABS system -
replacement and adjustment.
Job 13. Pressure regulating valves, ABS system
-
replacement
and adjustment.
Job 14. RPM sensors, ABS systems
-
replacement.
Job 15. Flexible hoses
-
replacement.
Job 16. Metal pipes
-
replacement.
Job 17. Brake bleeding.
Job 18. Handbrake cables
-
replacement.
Job 1. Understanding
Tipo/Tempra brakes.
• Point
1
A: This is the standard disc/drum system used on
cars without anti-lock brakes, shown here in left hand drive
form.
1 - fluid reservoir and master cylinder 2 - servo 3
-
front disc brakes
4 - handbrake lever 5 - rear drum brakes 6
-
four way pipe union 7 - load proportioning/ pressure limiting valve
Job 1-1A
1 - front disc brakes 2
-
front flywheel 3 - front wheel RPM sensors 4 - hydraulic control unit 5 - brake light switch 6 - device failure warning light switch
7 - rear flywheel 8 - main control relay with excess voltage protection 9 - electronic control unit 10 - rear disc brakes 11 - rear wheel RPM sensors 12 - load proportioning/pressure limiting valve Job
1-1B

Q Point 1B: This version shows the anti-lock braking system
and has discs replacing drums at the rear. One of two makes
is used
-
Lucas or Bosch
-
and both are similar in design.
Shown here is the Bosch ABS system in left hand drive form.
Apart from checking that the hydraulic and electrical connec-
tions are sound, anti-lock brakes are not repairable. Individual
components and friction materials can be replaced but
otherwise, you should consult your FIAT dealer for diagnosis
of system faults (with specialised equipment) and rectification.
SPECIAL NOTES: • Unplug the electronic control unit
(ECU) before any electric welding is carried out.
• When oven drying paint, the ECU cannot withstand 95
degrees Celsius for more than a few minutes or 85
degrees Celsius for more than 2 hours.
• Disconnect the battery earth before removing the
hydraulic control.
• When reconnecting the battery, make sure the connec-
tions are firm and sound.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: When disconnecting brake
pipes or hoses, it is essential to minimise brake fluid loss.
This can be done by unscrewing the master cylinder
reservoir cap, laying a sheet of plastic across the opening,
and refitting the cap. This will prevent atmospheric
pressure from pushing the fluid out of opened lines. D
Job 2. Front brake pads -
replacement.
Changing and checking the Tipo's and Tempra's brake pads
are virtually identical jobs. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your
Car, pages 59 and 60
Job 3. Front brake caliper -
replacement.
Carry out this work with reference to Chapter 5, Servicing
Your Car, Job 49, pages 59 and 60.
Q Step 1: Slacken the front road wheels, jack up the car
and support on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
Q Step 2: Unplug
the brake pad wear
sensor (a
-
arrowed)
and ease the fluid
pipe/hose from the
bracket (b
-
arrowed)

on
the shock absorber
leg.
Q Step 3: Undo the brake fluid pipe union from the caliper
body and plug the end to prevent too much fluid loss.
Q Step 4: Undo the bolts and remove the caliper.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! The caliper securing bolts must
always be replace by new FIAT ones when loosened or
removed. They are of a special self-locking type. B
Q Step 5: Refit in reverse order and bleed the brakes, see
Job 17
Job 4. Front brake disc -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Carry out Steps 1 to 4 in Job 3.
• Step 2:
Undo the
securing bolts
and remove
the caliper
support
bracket.
• Step 3:
Undo the disc
fixing bolts
and withdraw
the brake
disc.
Q Step 4: Refit the remaining parts in reverse order of
removal. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your Car.
Carry out this work with reference to Chapter 5, Servicing
Your Car, Job 50, pages 60 and 61.
Job 5. Rear brake shoes -
replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! It often helps to work on one
side at a time, completing all the work on that side of
the car and using the other side as a reference before
you start dismantling it. Q
• Before refitting the disc,
ensure that the mating
surfaces
-
hub to disc, are
clean and undamaged.
• Spin the disc to be sure there is no 'run out' before
proceeding further.
Job 4-2

• Step 3: ...and
remove the caliper
support bracket.
Ll Step 4: Unscrew
the disc fixing bolts and
withdraw the disc.
clean and undamaged.
• Before refitting the disc,
ensure that the mating
surfaces
-
hub to disc, are
Job 10. Master cylinder
replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: • On right-hand drive cars, the
master cylinder is on the driver's side and is VERY
different to get at, behind the engine.
• To remove the master cylinder on these cars you may
need to remove the complete assembly
-
master cylinder,
servo and pedal assembly
-
from inside the car. Q
• Step 1: IMPORTANT NOTE: Protect all paint surfaces
from possible brake fluid spillage before starting work.
You know what a good paint stripper it is!
• Step 2: Syphon off as much brake fluid as possible or
bleed it out
through one of the
front brakes until
the master cylinder
makes 'sucking'
noises.
• Step 3:
Remove the
reservoir from the
master cylinder.
138
• Step 4: Use a spanner
-
preferably a purpose-made split
ring spanner
-
to undo all the pipe unions from the master
cylinder.
• Step 5:
Undo the nuts
securing the
master cylinder
to the servo and
remove it.
• Step 6: Refit
in the reverse
order and refer
to Job
77
for
bleeding the
brakes.
Job 11. Servo check
and refit.
remove
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: • Before condemning the
servo for lack of efficiency, check the condition of the
one-way valve and vacuum pipe connecting it to the
inlet manifold.
• Ease the valve out of the front of the servo and
disconnect the pipe from the inlet manifold.
• Check that you can only blow one way through the
valve
-
from the servo end towards the inlet manifold (or
the brake vacuum pump
-
Diesel models).
• The vacuum pipe can suffer failure in many ways. Age
can harden it until it cracks, causing an air leak which
sometimes results in a whistling noise and rough slow-
running.
• Loose connections could also produce the same result.
• The other type of vacuum hose failure is an implosion
(where the hose is sucked flat by the vacuum) often
because oil has softened the hose.
• This is not so easily detected, as it rarely upsets the
engine performance and resumes its normal shape
shortly after the engine is stopped.
• The inner lining can also deteriorate, causing a
blockage. Q
• Step 1: Follow Job
10
to remove the master cylinder.
• Step 2: From inside the car, unhook the accelerator cable
from the pedal fork.
• Step 3:
Undo the
fixing nuts,
remove the
retaining
plate and
pedal
assembly.
•
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Job 11-3

Job 12. Pressure regulating valve,
non-ABS system - replacement
and adjustment.
• Step 9: Bleed the brakes, see Job
17

139
-8
The pressure regulating valve is also known as the load
proportioning valve.
[G Step 1: Position the car on ramps, over a pit or on a lift,
keeping the weight on the rear wheels.
• Step 2: Remove the handbrake cable from its support
bracket on the fuel tank...
• Step 3: ...and
remove the support
bracket for the rear
exhaust section for better
access.
• Step 4: Undo all the
pipe unions on the
regulating valve using
split ring spanners where
possible, to avoid
damage. Plug the ends
of the pipes and catch
any fluid that drains out.
Unhook the spring
(arrowed) from the
mounting bracket.
Q Step 5: Undo the fixing belts and remove the valve
assembly.
• Step 6: Mount the new unit, remake all hydraulic
connections and connect the spring. Note that, if the valve
does not work properly, it cannot be repaired but must be
replaced.
• Step 7: Place a load of 60 kg with a full fuel tank, or 90
kg with an empty fuel tank, as far forward as possible in the
boot.
• Step 4: Prise
off the sound
proofing plate
stud with a screw-
driver (1, which
cannot be re-
used) and
unscrew the stud
(2). Move the
plate (3) to one
side, to give
access to the
servo retaining
nuts.
• Step 5:
Remove the split

pin
and
disconnect the
servo rod from
the brake pedal.
G Step 6: Move
the sound
proofing plate
sufficiently to
remove the servo
mounting nuts
(three
-
arrowed;
one being
unscrewed by a
socket extension).
G Step 7: From
under the bonnet,
withdraw the
servo from the
bulkhead.
G Step 9: Adjust the nut as
necessary to achieve this
setting measuring through
the aperture in the front
cover, from inside the engine
bay.
G Step 10: Continue re-
assembly in reverse order.
G Step 8:
When refitting the
servo to the
bulkhead and
with the pushrod
(a) connected to
the brake pedal,
the gap between
the piston control
rod adjusting nut
(b) and the master
cylinder mounting
flange should be
between 22.45
and 22.65 mm.
22.45-22.65 mm
• Step 8:
• Loosen the
bracket
retaining screw
(1).
• Apply a
downwards
force to the
bracket eye (2)
of 55 Nm for all
models except
the 1600
automatic
petrol and 1900
turbo diesel which should be 30 Nm.
• Keeping the bracket (3) in position. Tighten the retaining
screw (1).