1988 FIAT TEMPRA engine oil

O 23. Have your assistant press down firmly on the brake pedal while you check the rear brake flexible hoses for bulges, splits or other deterioration.
o 24. Check the fuel tank for leaks or corrosion. Remember also to check the fuel filler cap
-
a correctly sealing filler cap is a part of the MoT test.
O 25. Examine the handbrake mechanism. Frayed or broken cables or worn mounting points, either to the bodywork or in the linkage will all be failure points.
o 26. Check each of the rear wheel
bearings as for the fronts.
o 27. Spin each rear wheel and check that neither the wheel bearings nor the brakes are binding. Pull on and let off the handbrake and check once again to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is releasing.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Only run the car out of doors.
• Beware of burning yourself on a hot exhaust system.
o 28. While you are out from under the car, but with the rear end still raised off the ground, run the engine. Hold a rag over the end of the exhaust
pipe and listen for blows or leaks in the system. You can now get back under the car and investigate further if necessary.
o 29. Check the exhaust system mountings and check for rust, corrosion or holes in the rear part of the system.
o 30. Check the rear brake back plate or calipers (as appropriate) for any signs of fluid leakage.
o 31. Check the insides and the outsides of the tyres as well as the tyre treads for damage, as for the front tyres.
PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS
This is an area that is impossible to
check accurately at home. However,
the following rule-of-thumb tests will
give you a good idea whether your car
is likely to fail or not.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: If you
feel that your car is likely to fail
because of the emission test, have
your MoT testing station carry out
the emission part of the test first so
that if it fails, you don't waste
money on having the rest of the
test carried out. Q
O 1. PETROL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1973 AND DIESEL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1979 only have to pass visible smoke check. Rev the engine to about 2,500 rpm (about half maximum speed) for 20 seconds and then allow it to return to idle. If too much smoke is emitted (in the opinion of the tester) the car will fail.
O 2.DIESEL ENGINES FROM 1 AUGUST 1979 The engine will have to be taken up to maximum revs several times by the tester, so make certain that your timing belt is in good condition, otherwise severe damage could be caused to your engine. If the latter happens, it will be your responsibility!
FACT FILE: VEHICLE EMISSIONS

PETROL
ENGINED VEHICLES WITHOUT
CATALYSER

Vehicles first used before 1 August 1973

• visual smoke check only.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1973 and 31 July 1986

• 4.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1986 and 31 July 1992

• 3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.
PETROL ENGINED VEHICLES FITTED WITH
CATALYTIC

CONVERTERS
i

Vehicles first used from 1 August 1992
(K-registration on)

• All have to be tested at an MoT Testing Station specially equipped to
handle cars fitted with catalytic converters whether or not the vehicle
is fitted with a 'cat'. If
the
test, or the garage's data, shows that the
vehicle was not fitted with a 'cat' by the manufacturer, the owner is
permitted to take the vehicle to
a
Testing Station not equipped for
catalysed cars, if he/she prefers to do so (up to 1998-only). Required
maxima are
-
3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million,
unburned hydrocarbons. The simple emissions test (as above) will be
supplemented by a further check to make sure that the catalyst is
maintained in
good
and efficient working order.
• The tester also has to check that the engine oil is up to a specified
temperature before carrying out the test. (This is because 'cats' don't
work properly at lower temperatures
-
ensure your engine is fully
warm!)
DIESEL ENGINES'EMISSIONS
STANDARDS

• The Tester will have to rev your engine hard,
several times. If it is not in good condition, he is
entitled to refuse to test it. This is the full range of
tests, even though all may not apply to your car.

Vehicles first used before 1 August, 1979

• Engine run at normal running temperature; engine speed taken to
around 2,500 rpm (or half
governed
max. speed, if lower) and held for
20 seconds. FAILURE, if engine emits dense blue or black smoke for
next 5 seconds, at tick-over. (NOTE: Testers are allowed to be more
lenient with pre-1960 vehicles.)

Vehicles first used on or after 1 August, 1979

• After checking engine condition, and with the engine at normal
running temperature, the engine will be run up to full revs between
three and six times to see whether your engine passes the prescribed
smoke density test. (For what it's worth
-
2.5k for non-turbo cars; 3.0k
for turbo diesels. An opacity meter probe will be placed in your car's
exhaust pipe and this is not something you can replicate at home.)
Irrespective of the meter readings, the car will fail if
smoke
or vapour
obscures the view of other road users.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: The diesel engine test puts a lot of stress on the
engine. It is IMPERATIVE that your car's engine is properly serviced,
and the cam belt changed on schedule, before you take it in for the
MoT test. The tester is entitled to refuse to test the car if
he
feels that
the engine is not in serviceable condition and there are a number of
pre-Test checks he may carry out.

Please read the whole of the Introduction to this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
CHAPTER 5
SERVICING YOUR CAR
Everyone wants to own a
car that starts first time,
runs reliably and lasts
longer than the average.
And it's all a question of
thorough maintenance!
If you follow the FIAT-
approved Service Jobs
listed here you can almost
guarantee that your car will
still be going strong when
others have fallen by the
wayside
-
or the hard
shoulder.
How To Use This Chapter
This chapter contains all of the servicing Jobs recommended
by FIAT for all models of Tipo and Tempra imported into the
UK except cars with 1.8 and 2 litre DOHC petrol engines. To
use the schedule, note that:
• Each letter code tells you the Service Interval at which you
should carry out each Service Job.
• Each Service Job has a Job number.
• Look up the number in the relevant part of this chapter and
you will see a complete explanation of the work.
SAFETY FIRST!
SAFETY FIRST information must always be read with
care and always taken seriously.
• In addition, please read the whole of Chapter 1,
Safety First! before carrying out any work on your
car.
• There are many hazards associated with working on
a car but all of them can be avoided by adhering
strictly to the safety rules.
• Don't skimp on safety!
SERVICE INTERVALS - INTRODUCTION
• We think it is very
important to keep things as
straightforward as possible.
And where you see this heading, you'll know there's
an extra tip to help 'make it easy' for you!
Over the years, FIAT, in common with all other manufacturers,
have lengthened their recommended service intervals. For
instance, oil changes on later FIATs don't have to take place as
often as earlier ones. In the main, these changes have not
come about because of specific modifications to the cars
themselves. They have come about because of a number of
factors: Lubricants, spark plugs, seals and other components
have improved and mechanical parts are better made due to
improved materials and production techniques.
As a result, you are recommended to follow the maker's
recommendations on how often to service your car. If your car
lies right on a change-over point, the choice of which
schedule to follow will be yours, unless the specific advice
given here recommends otherwise
-
as we said earlier, most
change points came about for a number of reasons, so it
generally isn't necessary to identify with pinpoint accuracy
which bracket your car belongs to, if it isn't obvious.
32

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

PART G: BRAKING SYSTEM
Job 49. Check front brakes
Job 50. Check rear brakes
Job 51. Check/adjust handbrake
Job 52. Check brake pipes
Job 53. Change brake hydraulic fluid
SERVICE INTERVALS
C
C
C
C
E
Job 56. Check seat and seat belt mountings C
Job 57. Check headlight alignment C
Job 58. Check underbody C
Job 59. Check spare tyre B
Job 60. Change pollen filter C
Job 61. Replace airbag gas generator 10 years
PART I: ROAD TEST
PART H: BODYWORK & INTERIOR
Job 54. Lubricate hinges and locks
Job 55. Check windscreen
Job 62. Road test and specialist check. AFTER EVERY
SERVICE

ENGINE BAY LAYOUTS
These are the engine bay layouts common to almost all Tipo/Tempras. Note that there is no carburettor fitted to fuel-injected
vehicles.
1 - PETROL ENGINES 2 - DIESEL ENGINES
1
-
oil filler cap 7
-
distributor (ignition) 12 - oil filter location
2
-
engine oil dipstick 8
-
coil (ignition) 13
-
fuel pump (mechanical)
3
-
coolant filler cap 9
-
electronic control unit (ECU), 14
-
diesel injection pump
4 - brake fluid reservoir Digiplex 2 15
-
alternator location (behind engine)
5 - battery 10
-
air filter housing
6
-
screenwash reservoir cap 11
-
fuel filter
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
1B. ...and the diesel's
dipstick is in a similar
spot, located at the
front edge of the
timing cover, behind
the right-hand
headlight.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: The
difference between MIN and MAX
marks is approximately one litre of
oil. Q
We recommend that these Jobs are carried out on a weekly
basis, as well as before every long journey. They consist of
checks essential for your safety and for your car's reliability.
• Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level.
Check the engine oil level with the car on level ground. If the
engine has been running, leave it turned off for several
minutes to let the oil drain into the sump.
1A. All petrol engines
have the dipstick at
the front of the block,
towards the timing
belt end...
1C. Lift the dipstick out,
wipe it dry and re-insert it. The oil
level is correct when between the
MAX and MIN marks.

TOPPING-UP
1D. On petrol
engines the oil
filler cap is pull-
out rectangular
plug at the end
of the rocker
On diesel engines, the round cap is near the same end of the
cam cover. This cap is removed by turning a quarter-turn to
the left and lifting.
DIESEL ENGINES
Top-up, if necessary using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water
and Paraflu anti-freeze.
cover adjacent to
the distributor.
Note that on some models, the cap is circular.
1E. Pour in the
fresh oil carefully,
preferably using a
funnel. A clean
plastic bottle with
the bottom cut
off is ideal!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regularly check the ground over
which the car has been parked for traces of oil or other
fluid leaks. If a leak is found, don't drive the car without
first finding out where the leak is from, and ideally,
repairing it.
G Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level.
SAFETY FIRST!
• ALWAYS check the coolant level with the engine
COLD
• If the engine is hot there is a real danger of

scalding
from boiling coolant gushing from the tank
when the cap is removed.
Never allow the coolant level to fall below the MIN (or UVELLO
A FREDDO) mark on the expansion tank. It is vitally important
that all engines have the correct proportion of anti-freeze in
the coolant all year round to prevent corrosion. A 50% mix of
distilled water with FL Paraflu coolant gives the best
protection.
• Job 3. Brake/dutch fluid
-
check level/s.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On later models, a hydraulic clutch is
fitted. The same fluid reservoir serves both brakes and
clutch.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If brake fluid should come into contact with skin or
eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
• It is acceptable for the brake fluid level to fall
slightly during normal use, but if it falls significantly
below the MIN mark on the reservoir there is probably
a leak or internal seal failure. Stop using the car until
the problem has been put right.
• If you let dirt get into the hydraulic system it can
cause brake failure. Wipe the filler cap clean before
removing it.
• You should only ever use new brake fluid from a
sealed container
-
FIAT recommend FL Tutela Top 4
brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture and this could
cause the brakes to fail when carrying out an
emergency stop or during another heavy use of the
brakes
-
just when you need them most and are least
able to do anything about it, in fact!
On all models the brake fluid reservoir is positioned above the
master cylinder either in the rear right-hand or rear left-hand
corner of the engine bay, according to model. The reservoir is
semi-transparent so the level can be checked without
disturbing the cap.
PETROL ENGINES
2A. The coolant should be just
below the remote header tank
filler neck
-
about 25 mm
(1
in)
above the MIN (or UVELLO A
FREDDO) mark on the tank
(arrowed). This is the header tank
(screw-on cap, removed), on the
passenger-side of the engine bay,

at
the very front of the engine
bay.
3. If brake fluid topping-up is
required, turn the cap without
allowing the centre section to
turn. This section, with two wires
attached, swivels in the cap.
Place the cap and float to one
side
-
take care not to drip fluid
from the float
-
and top up with
FL Tutela Top 4 brake and
clutch fluid.
Check that the brake fluid-level
warning-light is operating. Turn
the ignition key to the MAR
I
i 3
»35
2B. Check the
level as described

in
Job 2A.
Unscrew the
coolant filler cap
anti-clockwise
and remove it.
DON'T confuse
the coolant cap
with the smaller
windscreen washer fluid cap, to one side of it.

FACT FILE: FUSES contd. 7h. CERTAIN TIPO MODELS: Other
fuses are i) a set of three fuses (15A, 30A
and 40A) protecting the air conditioning,
when fitted, located in the engine bay,
near the horns (A). Press in the two sides
(arrowed) to remove the cover.
And ii) there is a 60A
fuse, located near the
fuse box, protecting
the fan on Diesel
vehicles.
7i. On latest vehicles,
there are two 10A
fuses (a) protecting
the electric petrol
pump and the
Lambda sensor
preheater. Remove
the screws (arrowed)
and the cover.
7g. TEMPRAS WITH
AIR CONDITIONING
30A The Air conditioning
system fuse is housed on
a bracket on the engine
compartment bulkhead.
The following two fuses
are located under the
front crossmember near
the right headlight.
3A High-speed radiator fan relay.
7.5A Electromagnetic air conditioner compressor clutch.
The relays housed near the fuses are part of the air
conditioner circuit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Replace the sealed cover carefully
after changing a fuse. Ensure the gasket is correctly
positioned and the screws are fully tightened.
PART B: ENGIIME AND COOLING SYSTEM
Q Job 8. Change engine oil and filter.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Refer to the section on ENGINE OILS and RAISING

THE
CAR SAFELY in Chapter f, Safety First! before

carrying
out this work.
• You must wear plastic gloves when changing the oil.

Used
engine oil can severely irritate the skin and
is
carcinogenic.
Used diesel engine oil is an even greater

health
hazard.
•
Oil
drain plugs are often over-tightened, so take

care
that the spanner does not slip.

Take
care that the effort needed to undo the drain

plug
doesn't tip the car off its supports
-
remember to

use
wheel
chocks!

rtj&^si ' # °nly dram theu 0,7 fr°m a ff (y warm engine
-
but not
so

hot that the oil can scald!
• Allow the oil to drain for at least ten minutes before
replacing the sump plug.
• You can use this time by renewing the oil filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The plug is a taper-fit and can
become very tight, necessitating the use of a long drive-
bar for its removal.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: On side-mounted drain holes,
as the oil empties, the angle of 'spurt' will change, so be
prepared to move the container. E3

8A. The
sump drain

plug is on
the
under-side of the

sump on
petrol
engines, and on the

side
of the sump
(timing belt end of
engine) on the

diesel.
The plug has

a
recessed
hexagonal head and you will need either a sump plug
spanner, a large Allen key, or a 'Hex' headed socket fitted to a

socket
wrench.
8B. Once the initial
tightness of the
plug has been
released, unscrew
the last few turns
by hand, holding
the plug in place
until the threads
have cleared, then
withdrawing it
smartly to allow oil to flow into the receptacle beneath.
expert22
8C. On all engines,
including diesel, the
oil filter is mounted
low on the front of
the engine block,
towards the timing
belt. Use a strap or
chain wrench to
unscrew the old
filter. Note that
there may be a lot of oil spilt as the filter seal is broken, so
keep the drip tray beneath it.
/yifl http://rutracker.org

8D. To prevent the rubber sealing
ring on the new filter from
buckling or twisting out of shape
while tightening, smear it with
clean oil.
8E. Screw the new filter onto the
stub by hand. When the rubber
sealing ring contacts its seat,
continue to turn the
filter a further 3/4
of a turn, by hand
only. Over-tight-
ening the filter
makes it difficult to
remove at the next
oil change and can
buckle the seal,
causing a leak.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: It isn't necessary to use
excessive force when refitting the sump plug. Simply grip
the spanner (no need for an extension, now!) so that the
thumb rests on the spanner head, limiting the amount of
leverage that can be applied. Use firm pressure only.
Before refitting the plug, wipe around the drain hole
with a piece of clean cloth to remove any dirt. II
8F. Pour in the correct quantity of
Selenia engine oil (see Chapter
3, Facts and Figures) and check
the level against the dipstick.
Note that the empty oil filter will
cause the level to drop slightly
when the engine is started and
the oil flows into it. Before using
the car, run the engine for two
minutes, turn off, leave to stand
for a few minutes and then
recheck and correct the oil level.
• Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation.
10B. H INSIDE
INFORMATION: If
the gasket sticks
-

which it
frequently does -
DON'T lever the
Q Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances.
The valve gear clearances need to be checked at the appro-
priate intervals, when the engine is cold.
ALL PETROL AND DIESEL ENGINES
10A. Remove the
air cleaner (where
necessary)
-
see Job
30 then remove the
bolts holding the
camshaft cover in
place. This is the
petrol engine with
air filter removed...
cover or your
could or you could
easily damage it.
Use a spatula to push through the soft joint until the
gasket/cover comes free. D
10C. E3 INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The oil level inside
the housing is
above the level of
the bottom of the
cover plate on
these engines.
Try: i) raising the
front of the car as
high as safely possible, so that oil drains out of the back
of the housing; ii) stuffing cloths beneath the opening
and have more ready, for mopping up; iii) being ready to
clean off the front of the engine with degreaser, when
the job is finished. D
10D. The valve
clearance is
measured directly
beneath the cam
and must be
checked when the
high point of the
cam (arrowed) is
pointing directly
upwards and away
9. Check the
condition of the
breather hose from
the valve cover or
cam cover to the air
cleaner. If the pipe
has become
blocked or
damaged, replace
it, transferring the
flame trap from inside the old pipe to the new one. On some
models, you will have to remove the air filter housing to get at
the crankcase ventilation pipe beneath. Note this type of
spring clip
-
use pliers to slacken-off when removing or re-
fitting.
Try different feeler gauge thicknesses until you find one that's
a tight sliding fit between cam and follower. Make a written
note of each clearance starting with number
1
at the timing
belt end of the engine.
from the cam follower.

—I Job 13. Check cooling system.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The coolant level should be checked
-
and the
cooling system worked on, ONLY WHEN THE
COOLANT IS COLD. If you remove the pressure cap or
bleed screws when the engine is hot, scalding coolant
will spurt out.
• Keep anti-freeze away from children. If it is acciden-
tally swallowed or contacts skin or eyes, rinse
immediately with plenty of water and seek immediate
medical help.
Examine the cooling system hoses, looking for signs of
splitting, chafing and perishing. Squeeze the top and bottom
radiator hoses. Any hard, brittle areas or crackling sounds tell
you that the hoses are decomposing from the inside
-
replace-
ments needed!
SAFETY FIRST!
If
a
clearance is outside the tolerances shown in Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures, the relevant shim will have to be changed.
New
shims
are available from your FIAT dealer. This work is
fully described in Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
10E. You must
always use a new
gasket, especially in
view of the oil level
mentioned earlier.
Clean the housing

and
cover faces and

use
the gasket dry.

11.
Examine the

belt
for wear. If
there
is
any
cracking, or if the
toothed side
10F.H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The cover is 'anti-
crush'
-
you CAN'T
tighten beyond
the lugs pointed
out here
-
so
there's no point
trying! H
0 Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt.
Remove the camshaft belt outer cover. See Chapter 6,

Repairs
and Replacements, PART A: ENGINE.
FACT FILE: VALVE IDENTIFICATION:
T
—
Remember that clearances for inlet and
3™ exhaust valves differ. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures. Counting from the
—^ timing belt end the valves are:
1.1,1.2 8-valve AND DIESEL ENGINES:
EXHAUST -1, 3, 6, 8. INLET
-
2, 4, 5, 7.
1372cc AND 1581cc ENGINES: EXHAUST -1, 4, 5, 8.
INLET
-
2, 3, 6, 7.
1.2 16-valve Hydraulic tappets
-
non-adjustable.
13. If original FIAT hose
clips (a) are fitted, cut them
off (taking great care not to
damage the stub beneath!)
and replace with screw-
tight clips, when fitting a
new hose. Ensure that hose
clips are secure and firm but
not over-tightened.
Check that the wires to the
cooling fan switch (b) are in
good shape. Also, refer to
Job
27

• Job 14. Change engine coolant.
• See SAFETY FIRST! at the start of Job 13.
appears worn, or
any 'teeth' are
missing, replace
the belt straight
away. If the belt

breaks
the valves may collide with the pistons, causing serious
engine damage. Camshaft belt replacement is described in

Chapter 6,
Repairs and Replacements, or you may wish to

have
your FIAT dealer carry out the work for you. If you can
twist the belt through more than 90 degrees, it needs re-
tensioning. Also see Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
m
AUtOKAlIC CtMAU s/
b
14A. Remove the expansion tank filler cap. Move the heater
control (a) to the red (open) position or, on automatic
systems, press the TEMP button (b) on the dash until HI
appears on the display (c).
—i Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt.

It is
ESSENTIAL that you renew the camshaft drive belt at the
recommended interval. See the Service Interval Chart at the

start
of this chapter. Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements
explains how to carry out the work.
14B. Loosen the
worm-drive clip
(arrowed) and
pull off the
bottom radiator
hose.