1987 NISSAN PULSAR service

184 Brakes
than 0.05 mm. If the wheel hub end float exceeds
Specifications, the bearing must be renewed as de-
scribed in the Rear Suspension section.

(3) Position the dial gauge plunger against the
centre of the brake disc contact area. Rotate the hub
and measure the runout. Ma ximum allowable runout
is 0.07 mm. (4) If the runout exceeds the specified amount,
machine or renew the brake disc. (5) Install the rear wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground. (6) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
To Remove and Install

(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
(2) Remove the clip securing the brake hose to
the suspension unit and disengage the hose. (3) Remove the bolts retaining the caliper an-
chor plate. (4) Slide the caliper from the brake disc and
suspend the caliper clear of the work area using wire
or cord.
NOTE: Do not allow the caliper to hang on
the brake hose.

(5) Remove the grease cap from the rear hub.
(6) Remove the split pin, nut retainer, hub nut
and washer from the stub axle. (7) Remove the hub assembly from the stud
axle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Tighten the rear hub to the specified torque.
(2) Install the brake caliper and tighten all the
bolts to the specified torque. (3) Rotate the hub and check for roughness. If
the hub does not rotate smoothly, renew the hub
bearing as described in the Rear Suspension section. (4) Install the rear wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
(5) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
To Inspect

(1) Inspect the machined faces of the disc for
scores, cracks, wear and signs of overheating. (2) Using a micrometer, measure the thickness
of the disc at several posit ions around the face of the
disc. Renew the disc if the minimum thickness is
below Specifications.

(3) If the disc thickness is satisfactory but the
disc is scored, machine equal amounts from the
machined face on each side of the disc, to restore the
serviceability of the disc.


Inspect the machined faces of the disc for scores,
cracks, wear and signs of overheating.
NOTE: Disc machining is best entrusted to
a reliable brake specialist who can advise on
disc serviceability.

7. REAR DRUM BRAKES
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove th e rear wheels and release
the handbrake.
(2) Remove the grease cap from the rear hub.
(3) Remove the split pin, nut retainer, hub nut
and washer from the stub axle. Remove the brake
drum and hub assembly.

(4) Mark each brake shoe and spring to ensure
correct assembly. (5) Rotate the star wheel until the adjuster
assembly is at its shortest length.
Installed view of the left hand side rear drum brake
components.

Electrical System 191
This is usually accompanied by discoloura-
tion of the electrolyte.

CHARGE INDICATOR LAMP REMAINS ON
• Loose or broken alternator drive belt: Adjust
or renew the drive belt.
• Faulty regulator unit: Check and renew the
regulator unit. • Faulty alternator: Check and overhaul the
alternator. • Short to earth in the warning lamp circuit:
Check and repair the circuit.

Checking the alternator drive belt for deterioration.
CHARGE INDICATOR LAMP DOES NOT
OPERATE

• Lamp bulb blown: Check and renew the
faulty bulb. • Open circuit in the wi ring or bulb socket:
Check and rectify the open circuit. • Faulty alternator diode: Overhaul the alter-
nator.
NOISE IN DRIVE BELT OR ALTERNATOR

(1) Drive belt frayed or out of alignment with
the pulleys: Renew the drive bell or align the pulleys.

• Loose alternator moun ting bolts or worn
bearings: Tighten the mounting bolts or renew the
bearings. • Loose alternator pulley: Tighten the pulley
retaining nut.
• Faulty alternator: Overhaul or renew the
alternator. • Faulty diodes in the alternator: Overhaul the
alternator, install a new heat sink.
NOTE: To check if the noise is in the
alternator or drive belt, loosen the alternator
and remove the drive belt. If the noise is
gone when the engine is run for a short time
check the serviceability of the belt and
alternator components.

2. BATTERY AND STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING

STARTER LACKS POWER TO CRANK ENGINE
(1) Battery undercharged: Check the charging
system and rectify as necessary.


Cleaning the battery terminals using a battery post
cleaner.
• Battery faulty, will not hold charge: Check
and renew the battery. • Battery leads or terminals loose or corroded:
Clean and tighten the leads or terminals.
• Faulty starter motor: Check and overhaul the
starter motor. • Faulty starter solenoid switch or contacts:
Check and renew the solenoid as necessary.
STARTER WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO CRANK
ENGINE

(1 ) Open circuit in the starting system : Check
for dirty or loose leads or terminals, dirty commuta-
tor, faulty solenoid or faulty switch. On automatic
Spin the alternator pulley over by hand to check the
bearings for noise.

192 Electrical System
transaxle models, check for a faulty or incorrectly
adjusted neutral safety switch.

1. Discharged battery: Check for a fault or short
circuit in the system. 2. Battery fully charged but will not crank
engine. Check for a locked drive and ring gear,
internal starter faul t or seized engine.
3. Fusible link blown: Check and repair the
cause and renew as necessary.
NOTE: Rotate the engine by hand to ensure
that the starter drive is not locked with the
flywheel ring gear and t hat the engine is not
seized. Ensure that the ignition key is
turned off before rotating the engine.

3. LIGHTING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
LAMP OR LAMPS FAIL TO LIGHT
1. Faulty bulb(s): Check and renew the faulty
bulb(s). 2. Open circuit in the wiring or connections:
Check the lamp circuits and rectify as necessary.

1. Faulty lamp switch: Check and if necessary
renew the lamp switch. 2. Faulty fuse or fuse connection: Repair the
fuse connection or renew the fuse. 3. Lamp relay faulty: Check and renew as
necessary.
NOTE: Switch on the lamps concerned and
using a test lamp, check that the lamp
circuits are operating. This is best done by
starting at the lamp wiring connector or
bulb holder and work ing back to the power
source.

LAMP OR LAMPS INCORRECTLY
ILLUMINATED

1. Lamp or lamps incorrectly earthed: Check
the lamp earth for loosene ss or clean the contact,
either at the lamp body or wire.
2. Incorrect bulbs installe d: Check the bulb
wattage and voltage and renew with the correct type if
necessary. 3. Dirty or damaged lamp reflector: Clean or
renew the lamp reflector. 4. Faulty bulb: Check with a known serviceable
bulb and renew if necessary. 5. Dirty lamp lens: Clean or renew the lamp
lens. 6. High resistance or faulty connections be-
tween the alternator and battery: Check the circuit
and rectify th e condition.
7. Poor earth connection between the battery
and the engine or alternat or: Check the battery earth
lead and the strap between the engine and the body. 8. Voltage regulator faulty: Check and renew
the voltage regulator.
NOTE: The most common cause for this
condition is dirty t erminals on the earth
leads. Check all earth leads at their earthing
points.

4. TURN SIGNAL LAMP TROUBLE SHOOTING
TURN SIGNAL LAMP DOES NOT LIGHT AND
NO AUDIBLE NOISE FROM FLASHER UNIT

(1) Fuse blown: Rectify the fault and renew the
fuse.

(2) The Flasher unit is faulty: Renew the unit
(3) Turn signal switch faulty: Renew the switch
(4) Fault in the wiring circuit: Check and repair
the fault.

TURN SIGNAL WARNING LAMP DOES NOT
FLASH BUT AUDIBLE CLICKING FROM
FLASHER UNIT

(1) Warning lamp bulb blown: Check and renew
the bulb.

Checking the rear combination lamp circuit using a test
lamp.
Checking the headlamp circuit using a test lamp.

Electrical System 195
(2) Remove the battery holding clamp and lift
the battery from the vehicle.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

Ensure that the terminals and posts are
clean. When connecting the l eads to the battery,
ensure that the polarity is correct. Connect the
positive lead first. Do not over tighten the terminal clamp
nuts.
Apply petroleum jelly to the battery termi-
nals to prevent corrosion.
MAINTENANCE

Battery maintenance should be performed at the
scheduled services.

NOTE: Keep naked flames away from the
battery as the battery gases are highly
explosive.

(1) Keep the battery and the surrounding area
clean and dry. In particular, ensure that the top of the
battery is free from dirt and moisture to prevent a
voltage drop between the terminals.

If necessary, clean the battery case as follows:
Remove the battery from the vehicle as
previously described.
Pour hot water over the battery being careful
not to allow any water to enter the battery through the
filler cap vent holes. Wipe the battery case clean.
Clean the battery terminals and posts using a
battery post cleaner, wire brush or emery cloth.
Remove all dirt and corrosion.
Remove the filler caps and check that the
vent holes are clear. Check the electrolyte le vel and replenish with distilled water as necessary. The correct level is just
above the top of the plates. Do not overfill the battery.
Do not transfer electrolyte from one cell to another.

(5) If the battery electrolyte requires frequent
replenishing, check the batt ery case for cracks. If the
case is damaged, renew the battery.

Check for overcharging by measuring the output
of the alternator as described later in this section.

Apply petroleum jelly to the battery termi-
nals to prevent corrosion. If the electrolyte has overflowed and contam-
inated the battery carrier and surrounding body
panels, proceed as follows:
With the battery removed from the vehicle,
sprinkle bicarbonate of soda over the contaminated
areas.
Pour hot water over the bicarbonate of soda.
The bicarbonate of soda will react with the water and
begin to foam. When the bicarbonate of soda has stopped
foaming, rinse the area with clean water and allow to
dry. Remove any blistered paint from the con-
laminated areas. Paint the contaminated areas with a corro-
sion inhibiting paint.
TO TEST AND CHARGE

(1) Using a hydrometer, test the specific gravity
of the battery electrolyte. Refer to the following chart
which shows charge conditi ons for various specific
gravity readings.

1.110-1.130............................... Fully discharged
1.140-1.160..............................Nearly discharged
1.170-1.190 ........................... Approximately one
quarter charged
1.200-1.220..................................... Half charged
1.230-1.250......................... Approximately three
quarters charged
1.250-1.280..................................... Fully charged

These readings are for electrolyte at a temperature
of 20 deg C. For every 10 deg above 20 deg C, add
0.007. For every 10 deg below 20 deg C, subtract
0.007.

NOTE: An accurate specific gravity reading
cannot be obtained if distilled water has
recently been added to the electrolyte. If the
electrolyte level is below the battery plates,
replenish with distilled water and charge the
battery before testing the specific gravity.

(2) If a low state of charge is indicated, or if the
specific gravity readings vary more than 0.030 be-
tween cells, the battery s hould be 'charged, using a
battery charger, with attention to the following points:

(a) Disconnect the negati ve and positive battery
terminals.
Cleaning the battery terminals using a battery post
cleaner.

196 Electrical System



Check the specific gravity in each cell with a hydro-
meter.
Check the battery electrolyte level and re-
plenish as necessary. Remove the filler cap s from the battery.
Follow the battery charger manufacturers
instructions. (3) Should the battery fail to operate satisfacto-
rily after charging, it is recommended that it be taken
to a workshop with the necessary equipment to per-
form a load test. Load testing, when performed in
conjunction with the specific gravity tests described
above will give an accurate indication of the service-
ability of the battery.
7. ALTERNATOR
Special Equipment Required
To Test On Vehicle - Voltmeter, 100-0-100
amp ammeter, ohmmeter
To Dismantle — 200 watt soldering iron,
bearing
puller, press
To Assemble — 200 watt soldering iron
DESCRIPTION
Two types of alternator are installed to the range
of vehicles covered by this manual, either Hitachi or
Bosch. In the alternator, the field and pole shoe assembly
is the moving part and it is shaped to form the rotor.
Since only a low amperage current flows between the
slip rings on the rotor shaft and the brushes, wear on
the brushes and slip rings is very slight and mainte-
nance is reduced to a minimum. The output current is generated in the fixed stator
windings and is a three phase alternating current
(AC). The stator windings are wound on a laminated
soft iron former, star connected and installed between
the end brackets. As it is not possible to charge a storage battery
with alternating current, it is necessary to rectify the
output of the stator windings to direct current (DC). This is done by a bank of diodes mounted within the
alternator slip ring end bracket.
The output of the alternator is governed by the
regulator and the built in ch aracteristics of the alter-
nator.
The regulator and brush holder assembly on
Hitachi alternators is mounted within the alternator
on the slip ring end bracket side. On Bosch
alternators
the regulator and brush holder unit is mounted to the
outside of the slip ring end bracket. An electrical cut out unit is not necessary with the
alternator charging system as the diodes prevent a
reverse current flow through the alternator.
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Ensure that the battery is connected with the
correct polarity to earth. Refer to Specifications.
Do not short out or ground any terminals
common to the charging circuit. Always disconnect the battery before con-
necting a battery charger.
If a booster battery is used, always connect it
in a parallel circuit i.e. positive to positive ( + to + )
and negative to negative (- to -) to maintain a 12
volt supply. Never disconnect the battery or terminals in
the charging circuit while the engine is running. Regularly check that the alternator drive belt
tension is as specified. Refer to the Engine Tune-up
section.
Keep the battery terminals clean and all
electrical connections tight. Disconnect the battery and alternator when
electric welding on the vehicle.
TO TEST ON VEHICLE If the charge indicator lamp stays on after the
engine has been started and run at approximately
1 000 rpm, carry out the following tests. Stop the engine.
Check the condition and adjustment of the
alternator drive belt. Clean the battery terminals, tighten all elec-
trical connections, check the wiring for shorts to earth
and/or bridged circuits. Ensure that the battery is fully
charged. If the battery is discharged charge it or
replace it with one fully charged. Start the engine and allow it to run until
normal operating temperature is reached.
Stop the engine and disconnect the negative
battery terminal.
Remove the nut and washer from the alter-
nator output terminal (B +) and disconnect the alter-
nator output lead. Connect one lead of an ammeter to the
alternator output terminal and the other lead to the
lead removed from the output terminal. Connect the negative battery terminal and
connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals.

Electrical System 203
BRUSH HOLDER
Dismantled view of the Hitachi starter motor.
Check the field coil insulation using an
ohmmeter. Connect one test probe to the solenoid
cable terminal and the other test probe to the body of
the yoke. If continuity exists, renew the field coils. Check that the commutator is free from
pitting and burning. Clean the commutator with a
petrol moistened cloth and polish with a strip of fine
glass paper.
A badly worn commutator may be repaired by
mounting in a lathe and taking a light cut using a very
sharp tool with the lathe rotating at high speed. After
machining, undercut the insulation between the seg-
ments to Specifications. Do not machine the commu-
tator to below 29 mm diameter. Check the armature
gear teeth for wear and damage.

Check the armature for short circuit using an
ohmmeter. Place one of the test probes on the
armature shaft or core and move the other test probe
around the periphery of the commutator. If continuity
exists at any point, the armature is faulty and should
be renewed. Check the pinion for wear and damage. The
pinion should move smoothl y along the clutch assem-
bly helical splines. Check the spring, collar and snap
ring for serviceability.
Check that the clutch assembly locks in one
direction and rotates smoothly in the opposite direc-
tion. Check for wear and damage to the reduction gear
teeth on the outside of the clutch assembly.
Check that continuity exists between the
solenoid spade terminal and the solenoid body and
between the solenoid spade terminal and the solenoid
field coil terminal. Renew the solenoid if continuity
does not exist. Renew all the components found to be
unserviceable in the above checks.
To Assemble

Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

(1) If removed, install new bearings to the clutch
assembly and the armature. Lubricate the armature
bearings with high temperature grease.

The sealed bearings on the clutch assembly are
lubricated during manufacture and further lubrication
is unnecessary.

Apply high temperature grease to the yoke
end cover bearing recess, the drive end bracket and
pinion housing bearing recesses, the clutch assembly
reduction gear teeth, the armature gear teeth, the
pinion helical splines, th e solenoid plunger and the
spring and lever. Install the pinion to the clutch assembly and
install the spring and collar to the pinion. Hold the collar down and install the snap ring
to the end of the pinion.
Position the collar over the snap ring. If
necessary, squeeze the snap ring into the groove using
multigrip pliers to enable the collar to be clipped over
the snap ring. Install the pinion and clutch assembly to the
drive end bracket.
Install the pinion housing to the drive end
bracket. Install and tighten the retaining screws
se-
curely. Check that the pinion rotates freely.
Assemble the lever and spring to the solenoid
in the position noted on dismantling.
Install the solenoid assembly and rubber seal
to the drive end bracket.
Install and tighten the solenoid retaining
bolts securely. Connect 12 volts between the solenoid spade
terminal and the solenoid field coil terminal and
measure the distance that the end of the pinion
protrudes from the pinion housing. Pull the pinion by hand until it contacts the stop
and measure the pinion end protrusion.

If necessary, add or subt ract shims between the
solenoid mounting face and the drive end bracket
until the difference between the above measurements
is 0.3-1.5 mm.

Install the armature to the yoke.
Install the brush holder to the yoke. Install
the
PLUNGER
O RING

Electrical System 215
Ensure that the wiper motor is in the Park
position before installing the wiper arm. If in doubt,
turn the wiper switch to the Off position and turn the
ignition switch to the On position until the wiper
motor stops.
Install the wiper arm to the pivot so that the
wiper blade is horizontal to the lower edge of the edge
of the rear window when in the Park position.
17. FUSES, FUSIBLE LINKS AND RELAYS

TO CHECK AND RENEW FUSE
NOTE: If a fuse is found to be faulty or
burnt out, use a replacement fuse of the
specified amperage only. The specified amp-
erage is marked on the fuse.

The use of a higher amperage fuse than
that specified could cause damage to the
vehicle wiring harness.

The fuses are mounted in a fuse box
located in the lower right hand corner of the
dashboard.

Remove the cover from the lower right hand
corner of the dashboard and using the information
marked on the fuse box, locate the fuse protecting the
circuit at fault. Pull the fuse out of the fuse box and inspect
it for serviceability.
Should the fuse appear to be in a serviceable
condition, test its continuity with an ohmmeter or test
lamp. Should the fuse be faulty or burnt out,
install
a new fuse of the same amperage. If the circuit is still inoperative or the fuse
burns out again, test the circuit as previously de-
scribed in this section or refer the problem to an
automotive electrician.
TO CHECK AND RENEW FUSIBLE LINK

NOTE: If a fusible link is found to be faulty
or burnt out, use a genuine replacement
fusible link of the specified amperage only.

The use of a higher amperage fusible link
than that specified could cause damage to
the vehicle wiring harness.

A new fusible link should never be in-
stalled until the fault which caused the
original link to fail has been repaired.

The fusible links installed to protect the
vehicles wiring system are located adjacent
to the washer bottle on the right hand inner
mudguard.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal
Check the fusible link visually for service-
ability.
Should the fusible link appear to be in a
serviceable condition, test its continuity using
an
ohmmeter or a test lamp. If the fusible link proves to be faulty, install
a
new fusible link and have an assistant temporarily
connect the battery while the circuit is checked for
operation.


View of the fuse box cover showing the fuse identifi-
cation label. Installed view of the fusible links.
View of the fuse box.

Body 227

Dismantled view of the front door lock components. Dimension A at the stepped adjuster holder should be 0.5-2.0 mm. Turn the stepped adjuster holder to give the correct free play.
EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE
To Remove and Install
Remove the interior handles, the trim panel
and the plastic sealing sheet as previously described.
Remove the retaining nuts from inside the
door panel. Withdraw the handle slightly while ensur-
ing that the link is sliding out of the lock assembly.
Maneuver the exterior handle from the vehicle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

Ensure that the exterior handle and seal are
in a serviceable condition and installed correctly to
prevent the entry of dust and water. Ensure that the exterior handle operates
correctly and has 0.5-2.0 mm free play at the stepped
adjuster holder. Adjust the stepped adjuster holder if
necessary.
Check the operation of the door lock assem-
bly before installing the plastic sealing sheet, the trim
panel and the interior handles as previously described.
LOCK CYLINDER

To Remove and Install
(1) Remove the interior handles, the trim panel
and the plastic sealing sheet as previously described.


Wind the door glass up fully and disconnect
the operating link between the door lock and the lock
cylinder.
Using a suitable screwdriver, remove the
lock cylinder retaining clip and withdraw the lock
cylinder from the outer door panel.
Installation is a reversal of the removal
procedure.

LOCK STRIKER PLATE
To Remove, Install and Adjust
Mark the position of the striker plate on the
door pillar with a soft lead pencil to facilitate correct
replacement of the striker plate.
Remove the retaining screws from the striker
plate to the door pillar and remove the striker plate.
Inspect the striker plate for wear and renew as
necessary.
Install the striker plate to the door pillar
according to the pencil marks made on removal.
Close the door and observe the alignment
with the body panel or rear door. If necessary, loosen
the striker plate retaining screws and move the striker
plate in or out to achieve a flush fit. If the door lifts or drops when the lock