1987 NISSAN PULSAR ignition

192 Electrical System
transaxle models, check for a faulty or incorrectly
adjusted neutral safety switch.

1. Discharged battery: Check for a fault or short
circuit in the system. 2. Battery fully charged but will not crank
engine. Check for a locked drive and ring gear,
internal starter faul t or seized engine.
3. Fusible link blown: Check and repair the
cause and renew as necessary.
NOTE: Rotate the engine by hand to ensure
that the starter drive is not locked with the
flywheel ring gear and t hat the engine is not
seized. Ensure that the ignition key is
turned off before rotating the engine.

3. LIGHTING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
LAMP OR LAMPS FAIL TO LIGHT
1. Faulty bulb(s): Check and renew the faulty
bulb(s). 2. Open circuit in the wiring or connections:
Check the lamp circuits and rectify as necessary.

1. Faulty lamp switch: Check and if necessary
renew the lamp switch. 2. Faulty fuse or fuse connection: Repair the
fuse connection or renew the fuse. 3. Lamp relay faulty: Check and renew as
necessary.
NOTE: Switch on the lamps concerned and
using a test lamp, check that the lamp
circuits are operating. This is best done by
starting at the lamp wiring connector or
bulb holder and work ing back to the power
source.

LAMP OR LAMPS INCORRECTLY
ILLUMINATED

1. Lamp or lamps incorrectly earthed: Check
the lamp earth for loosene ss or clean the contact,
either at the lamp body or wire.
2. Incorrect bulbs installe d: Check the bulb
wattage and voltage and renew with the correct type if
necessary. 3. Dirty or damaged lamp reflector: Clean or
renew the lamp reflector. 4. Faulty bulb: Check with a known serviceable
bulb and renew if necessary. 5. Dirty lamp lens: Clean or renew the lamp
lens. 6. High resistance or faulty connections be-
tween the alternator and battery: Check the circuit
and rectify th e condition.
7. Poor earth connection between the battery
and the engine or alternat or: Check the battery earth
lead and the strap between the engine and the body. 8. Voltage regulator faulty: Check and renew
the voltage regulator.
NOTE: The most common cause for this
condition is dirty t erminals on the earth
leads. Check all earth leads at their earthing
points.

4. TURN SIGNAL LAMP TROUBLE SHOOTING
TURN SIGNAL LAMP DOES NOT LIGHT AND
NO AUDIBLE NOISE FROM FLASHER UNIT

(1) Fuse blown: Rectify the fault and renew the
fuse.

(2) The Flasher unit is faulty: Renew the unit
(3) Turn signal switch faulty: Renew the switch
(4) Fault in the wiring circuit: Check and repair
the fault.

TURN SIGNAL WARNING LAMP DOES NOT
FLASH BUT AUDIBLE CLICKING FROM
FLASHER UNIT

(1) Warning lamp bulb blown: Check and renew
the bulb.

Checking the rear combination lamp circuit using a test
lamp.
Checking the headlamp circuit using a test lamp.

Electrical System 193


Installed view of the stop lamp switch and the flasher
unit.
(2) Fault in the warning lamp wiring: Check and
repair the fault.

NOTE: When renewing bulbs ensure that a
new bulb of the correct wattage is used.

TURN SIGNAL LAMPS FLASH WEAKLY AND
AT GREATER THAN NORMAL SPEED

1. Faulty flasher unit: Check and renew the
flasher unit.
2. Front or rear bulb blown on the turn side:
Check and renew the bulb.
NOTE: If the flasher unit is to be renewed,
always try to obtain a genuine replacement
part.

HAZARD WARNING LAMPS DO NOT
OPERATE

Fuse blown: Rectify the fault and renew as
necessary.
Flasher unit faulty: Re new the flasher unit.
Hazard warning switch faulty: Renew the
switch.
Fault in the wiring circuit: Check and repair
the fault.
5. TEST EQUIPMENT AND SOME APPLICATIONS

Special Equipment Required:
To Make Test Lamp or Jumper Lead — Soldering
iron

When working on the electrical system, a test
lamp and jumper leads can be very useful to check
circuits.

TO MAKE A JUMPER LEAD
The minimum materials required to make a
jumper lead are one length of 4 mm wire and two
small alligator clips.

Grouping of materials to construct jumper leads of
various sizes.
Bare both ends of a suitable length of 4 mm
wire. Connect a small alligato r clip to each end of
the wire. Solder and tape the connections. Test the jumper lead for continuity by re-
moving one battery cable and connecting the lead
between the cable and the battery terminal. Turn the
ignition On and the dashboard warning lamps should
operate indicating a completed circuit through the
jumper lead. Remove the jumper lead from the circuit and
reconnect the battery.
NOTE: Make a few jumper leads of various
lengths using different sizes and types of
alligator and battery clips.

TO MAKE A TEST LAMP
Due to the extensive use of electronic components
in the electrical system, an LED (light emitting diode)
test lamp can be made from a suitable length of 3 mm
wire, an alligator clip, an LED, a 1/4 watt 560 ohm
resistor, a suitable case such as an old ball point pen
case and a length of rod or wire sharpened to form a
probe.

(1) Solder the length of wire to the K (cathode)

194 Electrical System


Schematic of LED test lamp. Ensure that the connec-
tions to the K (cathode) lead and A (anode) lead of the LED are as illustrated.
lead of the LED. The K lead is the shorter of the two
leads and is adjacent to the flat on the LED.

Solder the 560 ohm resister to the A (anode)
lead of the LED. Solder a short length of wire to the other lead
of the resistor and to the probe. Drill a hole in the side of the case to accept
the wire attached to the K lead of the LED. Mount the probe in the case. If using a pen
case, push the probe through the lower end of the pen
after removing the refill. Push the lead attached to the K lead of the
LED through the hole made in the side of the case and
solder the alligator clip to the lead.
Mount the LED to the case. If using a pen
case, the LED may be mounted in the plug at the top
of the pen after drilling the plug to accept the LED. Suitably attach the probe to the case using
adhesive or tape.
TO TEST SWITCHES

Disconnect the wires from the switch.
Using a test lamp, test each wire to locate the
power wire. It may be nec essary to turn the ignition
On as the switch may be wired through the ignition
circuit. Disconnect the test lamp and connect a jumper lead between the power wire and the wire
from the other side of the switch.

If the circuit functions, the switch can be consid-
ered faulty and should be renewed. Refer to the
heading Switches and Controls.

TO TEST BULBS
Remove the bulb from the bulb holder.
Connect a jumper lead between the positive
terminal of a battery a nd the base of the bulb.
Connect another jumper lead between the
negative battery terminal and the contact on the base
of the bulb. The bulb should illuminate. If the bulb has two filaments, connect the jumper
lead to the second contact on the base of the bulb. The
second filament should illuminate.

If the bulb fails to illuminate, it should be
renewed with a bulb of the correct voltage and
wattage.

TO TEST CIRCUITS
Turn the circuit switch On.
Using a test lamp, check for power at one of
the circuit connections. A fuse is a good starting point.
If power is available, reconnect the connector and
continue checking towards the motor or bulb end of
the circuit.

If power is not available, continue checking
towards the battery or switch end of the circuit.

6. BATTERY
Special Equipment Required: To Test — Hydrometer
To Charge — Battery charger

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Disconnect the negative and positive battery
terminals.

Installed view of the battery.

Electrical System 201
nosed pliers. This will safeguard the diodes
by transferring any excess heat to the jaws of
the pliers.

Using a suitable drift, install the bearing into
the drive end bracket, install the retainer plate and
screws. Tighten the screws securely. Using a suitable press and press plates, install
the bearing to the slip ring end of the rotor shaft.
Ensure that pressure is ex erted only on the inner race
and that the stop ring groove is nearest to the sl i p
rings. Ensure that the rotor sh aft rear bearing stop
ring is positioned so that the protruding part of the
ring is located in the deepest part of the groove. Install the stator, diode pack and
regulator
assembly to the slip ring e nd bracket. Install the
retaining nuts and washers and tighten securely. Install the nut and insulator to the terminal
and tighten securely. Using a piece of wire, hold the brushes in a
retracted position. Hold the drive end bracket in a soft jawed
vice and install the rotor shaft assembly to the drive
end bracket. Install the pulley, retaining nut and washer to
the rotor shaft and tighten the retaining nut to the
specified torque. Apply a heated 200 watt soldering iron to the
slip ring end bracket at the bearing mounting boss for
3-4 minutes to heat the bracket and allow the
installation of the rotor shaft rear bearing. Aligning the marks made on dismantling and
ensuring that the rotor sh aft rear bearing retaining
ring protrusion is located in the deepest part of its
groove, install the rotor/stator assembly to the slip ring
end bracket.
Remove the brush retr acting wire from the
alternator, ensure that the alternator component
marks are aligned, install the retaining through bolts
and tighten them securely. Check the alternator rotor for smooth oper-
ation and install the al ternator to the vehicle
as
previously described.
Check the alternator operation on the vehicle
as previously described.
8. STARTER MOTOR
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Brushes — Soldering iron
To Renew Armature Bearings — Bearing puller
DESCRIPTION
Two types of starter motors are installed to the
range of vehicles covere d by this manual, either
Hitachi or Bosch.

The starter motor is the induced pole type with
four brushes and four pole shoes with field coils.

A solenoid switch is attached to the starter drive
end bracket. The solenoid plunger is connected to
the overrunning clutch and drive pinion assembly
through a lever and pivot arrangement.

When the solenoid windings are energized, the
plunger acting on the lever and pivot engages the drive
pinion with the flywheel ri ng gear and at the same
time closes the switch supplying power from the
positive lead of the battery to the starter motor field
coils and armature to operate the motor.

As the engine fires, the over-running clutch of the
drive pinion assembly prevents high speed rotation of.
and possible damage to, the starter armature if the
solenoid windings are not immediately de-energized
by releasing the ignition key.

The starter solenoid switch windings are energized
by the ignition switch.

TO TEST ON VEHICLE
Should the starter motor fail to operate when the
ignition switch is turned to the Start position, check
the following points:

Check the battery condition and state of
charge. Refer to the Battery heading for the correct
procedure.
Clean the battery terminals, taking particular
care to remove the scale from the positive ( + )
terminal post and terminal. Check the earth connection for tightness and
cleanliness.
Switch on the headlamps and turn the igni-
tion switch to Start. If the lamps dim but the starter
motor does not operate, it could indicate that a short
circuit has developed in the starting system. Check that the engine is not seized or that the
starter motor drive pinion and ring gear are not
locked as these conditions would -give the same
indications as above.

(5) If the lamps do not dim and the starter
motor does not operate, this would indicate an open
circuit such as a broken or disconnected wire or a
switch not operating.

If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transaxle, turn the ignition switch to Start and move
the selector lever through all the gear selection range.
If the starter motor operates in any position other
than N or P, the neutral safety switch is faulty.

(6) Check all the external wiring to ensure that
the fault is not external. If the external circuit proves
satisfactory, indicating that the problem is in the
starter motor, the unit will have to be removed and
tested.

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
solenoid. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts,

206 Electrical System
Install the armature and yoke to the drive end
bracket rotating the drive to align the reduction gears.
Do not use force.
Install the retaining through bolts to the
commutator end bracket and lighten the through bolts
and armature end cover retaining screws securely. Install the solenoid to the drive end bracket,
install the retaining screws and tighten them securely.
Install the brush connector strap and
install
the retaining nut and washer and tighten securely.
9 . IGNITION SYSTEM

The testing and repair procedures for the ignition
system are fully covered in the Fuel and Engine
Management section.

10. STEERING WHEEL
The removal and installation procedures for the
steering wheel and horn pad are fully covered in the
Steering section.

11. SWITCHES AND CONTROLS
IGNITION SWITCH
To Remove and Install
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the retaining screws from the steer-
ing column cover. Unclip and separate the upper and lower
steering column covers and remove the upper cover. Release the column adjusting lever and re-
move the lower cover by guiding the column adjusting
lever through the hole in the upper end of the cover.

Disconnect the ignition switch wiring at the
switch. Remove the retaining screw and withdraw
the ignition switch fr om the lock assembly.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.

COMBINATION SWITCH
The combination switch is mounted at the top of
the steering column and incorporates two switches.
The parking lamp, headlamp, headlamp flasher, head-
lamp dipper and turn signal lamps are operated by a
lever on the right hand side. A lever on the left hand
side operates the windscreen washer and wiper switch.

These switches can be re newed without removing
the combination switch.

To Remove and Install Switches
Remove the retaining screws from the steer-
ing column cover.
Unclip and separate the upper and lower
steering column covers and remove the upper cover.

View of the combination switch removed from the
vehicle.
Release the column adjusting lever and re-
move the lower cover by guiding the column adjusting
lever through the hole in the upper end of the cover. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
applicable switch. Remove the retaining screws located at the
top and bottom of the applicable switch and remove
the switch. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.

To Remove and Install Combination Switch Base
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the steering wheel as described in
the Steering section Remove the retaining screws from the steer-
ing column cover. Unclip and separate the upper and lower
steering column covers and remove the upper cover.
Release the column adjusting lever and re-
move the lower cover by guiding the column adjusting
lever through the hole in the upper end of the cover.
Dismantled view of the steering lock and ignition
switch assembly

Electrical System 215
Ensure that the wiper motor is in the Park
position before installing the wiper arm. If in doubt,
turn the wiper switch to the Off position and turn the
ignition switch to the On position until the wiper
motor stops.
Install the wiper arm to the pivot so that the
wiper blade is horizontal to the lower edge of the edge
of the rear window when in the Park position.
17. FUSES, FUSIBLE LINKS AND RELAYS

TO CHECK AND RENEW FUSE
NOTE: If a fuse is found to be faulty or
burnt out, use a replacement fuse of the
specified amperage only. The specified amp-
erage is marked on the fuse.

The use of a higher amperage fuse than
that specified could cause damage to the
vehicle wiring harness.

The fuses are mounted in a fuse box
located in the lower right hand corner of the
dashboard.

Remove the cover from the lower right hand
corner of the dashboard and using the information
marked on the fuse box, locate the fuse protecting the
circuit at fault. Pull the fuse out of the fuse box and inspect
it for serviceability.
Should the fuse appear to be in a serviceable
condition, test its continuity with an ohmmeter or test
lamp. Should the fuse be faulty or burnt out,
install
a new fuse of the same amperage. If the circuit is still inoperative or the fuse
burns out again, test the circuit as previously de-
scribed in this section or refer the problem to an
automotive electrician.
TO CHECK AND RENEW FUSIBLE LINK

NOTE: If a fusible link is found to be faulty
or burnt out, use a genuine replacement
fusible link of the specified amperage only.

The use of a higher amperage fusible link
than that specified could cause damage to
the vehicle wiring harness.

A new fusible link should never be in-
stalled until the fault which caused the
original link to fail has been repaired.

The fusible links installed to protect the
vehicles wiring system are located adjacent
to the washer bottle on the right hand inner
mudguard.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal
Check the fusible link visually for service-
ability.
Should the fusible link appear to be in a
serviceable condition, test its continuity using
an
ohmmeter or a test lamp. If the fusible link proves to be faulty, install
a
new fusible link and have an assistant temporarily
connect the battery while the circuit is checked for
operation.


View of the fuse box cover showing the fuse identifi-
cation label. Installed view of the fusible links.
View of the fuse box.

216 Electrical System

NOTE: While checking the operation of the
fusible link, loosely connect the battery-
terminal only, to safeguard against damage
to the wiring harness.

(5) If the circuit is still inoperative or the fusible
link burns out again, refer the problem to an auto-
motive electrician.

RELAY LOCATIONS
The various relays employed in the vehicle elec-
trical system are located behind the fusible links
adjacent to the washer bottle in the engine compart-
ment, on the engine compartment bulkhead, under
the windscreen wiper motor and in the fuse box at the
lower right hand side of the dashboard.

The engine compartment relays power the radia-
tor fan, horn, condenser fan, bulb check, automatic
transaxle neutral safety switch, air conditioner and
condenser motor.


Installed view of the fuse box relays.
The fuse box relays power the fuel pump, ignition,
some accessories and the el ectronic control module.

18. TRAILER WIRING
There are several brands of trailer wiring connec-
tors available with a variet y of pin configurations. The
most common is the seven pin type which provides
for two auxiliary circuits, usually used for reverse
lamps and electric trailer brakes.


Installed view of the engine compartment relays.
Installed view of the engine compartment relays.


Useful connections which can be used if the trailer to
be towed is fitted with different type plug to the towing
vehicle socket
Brylite seven pin trailer plug and socket.

Electrical System 219


Wiring diagram (WDI) for the starting, charging and engine management systems.
COLOUR CODE
The first letter of the code
represents the main wire color,
the other letters represent the
trace colors.

B - BLACK
L - BLUE
G - GREEN
R - RED
Y - YELLOW
W - WHITE
N - BROWN
O - ORANGE
K - PINK
S - GREY V - VIOLET
P - PURPLE X - LIGHT GREEN
Z - LIGHT BLUE
M - DARK GREEN
T - DARK BLUE
A - LIGHT BROWN
E - SLATE
D - TAN

KEY 1. Battery
2. Fusible links
3. To BATT WD4
4. Alternator
5. Starter motor
6. To No 27 WD2
7. Ignition switch
8. To No.10 WD4
9. To ECU BIO
10. Inhibitor relav
11. Neutral safety
switch
12. Fuse No.8 Ignition
13. Ignition coil
14. Distributor
15. To ECU A1
16. Fuel pump relay
17. Fuel pump
18. ALDL connector - Terminal G
19. Oil pressure switch
20. To No. 19 WD2
21. To No. 4 WD2
22. Reverse lamp switch
23. Fuse No. 9 Ignition
24. L H reverse lamp
25. R H reverse lamp
26. EGI relay
27. ECU C16 and B1
28. ECU A6
29. To ECU D16
30. To ECU D15
31. Injectors
32. Ignition relay
33. To No. 1 WD2
34. To tachometer
35. Condensor
36. Bypass circuit (manual transaxle)