1987 NISSAN PULSAR tow

120 Emission Control
If the flap does not operate as described, renew
the air cleaner housing.

(2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo
unit and connect it to a vacuum gauge.
(3) Start and run the engine at approximately
1 200 rpm. If the engine is cold there should be
vacuum. (4) As the engine temperature increases the
vacuum should decrease to zero. If the vacuum gauge does not read as described,
check that the vacuum supply hose is connected to the
thermal vacuum valve and the throttle body.

If no fault is found, renew the thermal vacuum
valve.

4. EXHAUST CONTROL SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust system is the greatest source of
pollutant emission from the internal combustion
engine.

On the Pulsar range of vehicles covered by this
manual, the exhaust control system consists of a
catalytic converter and the engine management sys-
tem. The engine management system constantly mon-
itors the exhaust gases via an oxygen sensor located in
the exhaust system. Fuel injection is then adjusted
accordingly to give the minimum amount of exhaust
emissions. Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section for further information.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER
The catalytic converter, which is located in the
exhaust system, converts hydrocarbons, oxides of
nitrogen and carbon monoxide present in the exhaust
gases into carbon dioxide, nitrogen, water and heat.

The catalytic converter does not require periodic
maintenance or replacement under normal circum-
stances. However, it can be damaged or poisoned by
excessively high exhaust gas temperatures, raw fuel
and the use of leaded fuel.

Installed view of the catalytic converter.
To prevent the use of leaded fuel, a small diam-
eter fuel filler neck with a spring loaded trap door is
used.

To prevent damage to the catalytic converter, the
following precautions sh ould be observed.

(1) Do not operate the vehicle on leaded fuel.
(2) Do not push or tow start the vehicle.
(3) Do not allow the engine to idle for prolonged
periods. (4) Do not operate the vehicle if the engine is
misfiring.
(5) Avoid running the vehicle out of fuel.
(6) Ensure that the engine oil is formulated to
contain low phosphorous levels.
To Inspect Catalytic Converter

(1) Inspect the converter for dents and damage.
If the converter is damaged, it should be renewed. (2) Inspect the converter heat shield for damage
and ensure that it is positioned correctly. Renew the
converter heat shield if necessary.
To Remove and Install
To remove and install the catalytic converter,
refer
to the Exhaust System heading in the Engine section.

122 Clutch


Check the engine mountings for damage and deterio- ration.
NOTE: Clutch shudder is usually most
evident when reversing up an incline. As
loose or damaged engine mountings are a
cause for clutch shudder, thoroughly check
the engine mounting rubbers and mounting
hardware for damage or looseness before
removing the clutch for inspection.

CLUTCH GRAB
(1) Oil soaked driven plate facings: Renew the
clutch driven plate. Invest igate and rectify the source
of the oil leak.
(2) Cracked pressure plate face: Renew the pres-
sure plate assembly. (3) Loose or broken engine mountings: Check
and renew the engine mountings as necessary.
(4) Binding release mechanism: Check the oper-
ation of the release mechanism.
NOTE: Visually check the operation of the
cable actuated release mechanism. Check
the inner cable for fraying and jamming in
the outer cable.

INSUFFICIENT CLUTCH RELEASE
(1) Stretched, frayed or broken clutch cable:
Check and renew the clutch cable. (2) Worn or damaged release mechanism: Check
and renew components as necessary. (3) Insufficient pedal height: Check and adjust
the pedal height.
(4) Warped clutch driven plate: Renew the
clutch driven plate. (5) Excessive clutch release lever free play:
Check and adjust the release lever free play to
Specifications.
NOTE: Visually check that the clutch cable
operates the release lever before removing
the clutch for inspection.

RELEASE BEARING NOISE
(1) Dry or worn release bearing: Check and
renew the release bearing.
(2) Damaged pressure plate diaphragm spring;
Check and renew the pressure plate assembly.
NOTE: Lightly depress the clutch pedal with
the engine running to check for release
bearing noise. If the release bearing is faulty
and has to be renewed, always check the
other clutch components.


Check the diaphragm spring fingers for scoring and damage.
2. DESCRIPTION
The clutch consists of a single, dry, driven plate
assembly, splined to slide on the transaxle input shaft.
A diaphragm spring type pr essure plate assembly is
bolted to the engine flywheel.

The driven plate is sandwiched between the
pressure plate and the flywheel and transmits the
drive from the engine to the transaxle.

Cushion rubbers are interposed between the hub
of the driven plate assembly and the plate friction
surfaces in order to cushion the drive.

The release mechanism is actuated by the clutch
pedal through a cable to the release lever and bearing.

Operation of the clutch pedal moves the release
lever which pushes the release bearing into contact
with the diaphragm spring fingers, forcing the dia-
phragm centre towards the flywheel. When the outer
edge of the diaphragm deflects, the clutch is caused to
disengage.

Clutch pedal free play is adjusted at the release
lever end of the clutch cable.

Clutch pedal height is adjusted at the pedal stop
on the pedal mounting bracket located under the
dashboard.

138 Manual Transaxle and Drive Shafts
Brakes section if necessary. Suspend the caliper with
wire or cord attached to the coil spring.

(9) Hold the steering knuckle and hub assembly
and tap the drive shaft out of the hub using a soft

faced hammer.
(10) Drain the oil from the transaxle into a
container.
(11) Prise the drive shaft out of the transaxle and
remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that the drive sh aft is firmly attached
to the differential side gear by attempting to pull the
shaft out of the gear. (2) Tighten all nuts securely and install new split
pins. (3) Fill the transaxle with the specified grade and
quantity of oil.
TO DISMANTLE AND ASSEMBLE

(1) Remove the drive shaft from the vehicle as
previously described.
(2) Remove and discard both the inner C.V.
joint boot retaining clips from the inner C.V. joint. (3) Roll back the large en d of the inner C.V.-
joint boot using a thin blade screwdriver, prise out the
C.V. joint retaining ring.
(4) Withdraw the C.V. joint housing from the
drive shaft and ball assembly. (5) Remove the inner snap ring retaining the ball
assembly to the drive shaft and withdraw the ball
assembly. (6) Remove the remaining inner C.V. joint re-
taining snap ring and the C.V. joint boot from the
drive shaft. (7) Noting their installed positions remove the
cage and ball assembly off the inner race and press the
balls out of the cage. (8) Remove and discard the clips retaining the
outer C.V. joint boot to the drive shaft and remove
the C.V. joint boot.
NOTE: The outer C.V. joint cannot be
dismantled.

(9) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and blow
dry with compressed air.
(10) Inspect the ball contact faces of the inner ball
race and C.V. joint housing for pitting and wear.

(11) Inspect the ball cage and the balls for wear
and damage. (12) Rotate the drive shaft with the outer C.V.
joint at a sharp angle and inspect the internal
components of the outer C.V. joint for wear and
damage. Renew if necessary by tapping the C.V. joint
from the drive shaft.
NOTE: Do not reuse the retaining snap ring
if the C. V. joint is removed from the drive
shaft.

(13) Check the C.V. joint boots for damage and
deterioration. (14) Renew all worn or damaged components as
necessary. Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

(1) Thoroughly pack the outer C.V. joint with
molybdenum disulphide grease. (2) Install the outer C.V. joint boot and retain in
position using new retaining clips. Ensure that the
boot and the clips ar e correctly seated.
(3) Install the inner C.V. joint boot, small
end
first, onto the drive shaft and pull it well down the
shaft. (4) Install the outer snap ri ng for the inner C.V.
joint into its locating groove in the drive shaft. (5) Position the inner ball race inside the ball
cage with the chamfered end of the ball race towards
the small end of the cage. (6) Press the balls firmly into the ball cage,
ensure that the balls are fully seated. (7) Install the ball assem bly onto the drive
shaft
with the small end of the cage towards the outer C.V.
joint and install the inner snap ring retaining the
ball
assembly onto the drive shaft.
(8) Pack the C.V. joint with the prescribed
amount of molybdenum disul phide grease. Refer to
Specifications. (9) Install the C.V. joint retaining ring into the
C.V. joint housing. Ensure that the retaining ring is
correctly seated.

Dismantled view of the inner C.V. joint. Install the ball assembly onto the drive shaft, with the
small end of the cage towards the outer C.V. joint.

Automatic Transaxle 141

(2) Incorrectly adjusted kickdown cable: Check
and adjust or renew the kickdown cable as required.

NOTE: Check and adjust the throttle cable
before adjusting the kickdown cable.

ENGINE WILL NOT START IN P OR N
RANGE OR WILL START IN ANY RANGE

(1) Neutral safety switch faulty: Adjust or renew
the neutral safety switch. (2) Incorrectly adjusted selector cable: Check
and adjust the selector cable as detailed.
2. DESCRIPTION

The automatic transaxle combines a fluid coup-
ling or torque converter with a fully automatic three
speed epicyclic gear system.

The transaxle provides th ree forward ratios and
one reverse. The hydraulic system consists of a single
pump and valv e arrangement.

The final drive or differential and the transaxle
use a common lubricant. The transaxle oil pan and
final drive drain plug will have to be removed to drain
the transaxle completely. Topping up or refilling is
done through the dipstick tube.

The gear selector lever is floor mounted and
connected to the transaxle by an adjustable cable. The
selector quadrant adjacent to the base of the lever is
marked P, R, N, D, 2, 1.

It is necessary for the selector lever to be in P or
N before the engine can be started. When testing or
tuning the engine, the handbrake must be firmly
applied and the selector lever placed in the P position,
otherwise the vehicle could move forward or back-
wards as the engine speed is increased.

For long distance towing the vehicle should be
towed with the front end raised.

It is not possible to start the engine by either
towing or pushing the vehicle.

The transaxle can be removed from the vehicle
without engine removal.

NOTE: As extensive knowledge and equip-
ment is required to overhaul the automatic
transaxle assembly, it is therefore not a
worthwhile repair proposition for the aver-
age person. However if the transaxle must
be overhauled by a specialist or be replaced
with a reconditioned unit, the removal and
installation procedure is fully described at
the end of this section.

3. TRANSAXLE FLUID
Only use the recommended transaxle fluid speci-
fied by the manufacturer when topping up or changing
the fluid in the system.

TO CHECK AND TOP UP
NOTE: The fluid level should be checked
after approximately 5 minutes driving on
the road when the engine has achieved its
normal operating temperature of approxi-
mately 65 deg C.

(1) Place the vehicle on a level floor and open
the engine bonnet.

NOTE: When working on the automatic
transaxle cleanliness is very important. Do
not reuse transaxle fluid and do not allow
foreign matter to enter the filler opening.

(2) Clean around the top of the dipstick to
ensure that no dirt or foreign matter can enter the
dipstick tube.
(3) Place the selector in the P position and
firmly apply the handbrake. (4) Move the selector thro ugh each gear return-
ing it to the P position.
(5) Check the fluid level with the engine running
at idle. Install the dipstick fully into the dipstick tube.
NOTE: If the vehicle has been driven at high
speed, or has been towing a load, or driven
through heavy city traffic in hot weather, a
period of about 30 minutes should be
allowed to permit the transaxle to cool
before checking the fluid level.

(6) Withdraw the dipstick and check the fluid
level reading. The fluid should be at the H mark on
the dipstick. If the fluid is low, stop the engine and
remove the dipstick from the vehicle. Using a funnel,
top up the transaxle with the recommended type of
transaxle fluid through the dipstick tube. (7) If the level is reading too high allow the
engine to cool down for about 30 minutes and recheck
the level as described. If the level is still too high, a
small amount of transaxle fluid may be drained from
the transaxle.

Checking the fluid level on the automatic transaxle
dipstick.

Automatic Transaxle 143
facing towards the radiator support panel at the front
of the vehicle.

The neutral safety switch allows electrical current
to pass to the starter circ uit only when the selector
lever is in the Park or Neutral position. The switch is
adjustable but non-repairable.

TO TEST
(1) Disconnect the neutral safety switch wiring
connector.
(2) Connect an ohmmeter between terminals 1
and 2 at the neutral safety switch wiring connector.
Continuity should exist when the selector lever is in
the P or N positions. (3) Perform the same check with terminals 3 and
4 with the selector lever in the R position. Continuity
should exist.
NOTE: If the readings are other than that
specified, the neutral safety switch will have
to be adjusted or renewed.


Neutral safety switch connector terminal identification.
TO ADJUST
(1) Select Neutral and firmly apply the hand-
brake. (2) Loosen the neutral safety switch retaining
bolts.
(3) Align the holes in the neutral safety switch
body and the neutral safety switch arm. (4) Install a 2.5 mm diameter split pin or drill bit
into the holes to align the arm with the neutral safety
switch body. (5) Secure the retaining bolts and test the switch
as previously described.

If the test indicates a fault, renew the neutral
safety switch.

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. (2) Remove the selector cable split pin and wave
washer from the transaxle selector lever.
(3) Disconnect the electric al connector and re-
move the neutral safety switch retaining bolts. (4) Maneuver the neutral safety switch clear of
the transaxle selector lever and withdraw the switch
from the vehicle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Clean the area around the neutral safety
switch mounting.
(2) Apply a small amount of chassis grease to the
jaws of the neutral safety switch arm. (3) Check the adjustment of the selector cable as
previously described. (4) Adjust the neutral safety switch as previ-
ously described.

(5) Check the operation of the neutral safety
switch and ensure that the engine will not start in any
position other than P and N. Check that the reversing
lamps operate only when R is selected.

8. TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
Special Equipment Required:
To Remove and Install — Suitable trolley jack to
which the transaxle can be secured

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the left hand front wheel.

(2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the left hand side inner mudguard

(3)
panel.

(4) Remove the left hand drive shaft as de-
scribed in the Manual Tran saxle and Drive Shafts
section. (5) Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor wiring,
selector control cable and the neutral safety switch
wiring from the transaxle. Disconnect the kickdown
cable from the throttle linkage and the support
bracket. (6) Disconnect the oil cooler hoses from the
Using a 2.5 mm drill bit to adjust the neutral safety
switch.

Steering — Part 3 155
(4) Support the rack carefully and lever back the
tabs of the ball housing lock washers. To prevent
damage to the steering gear, avoid any impact to the
steering rack.
(5) Holding the rack with an adjustable spanner,
unscrew the ball housings from the rack using a
Stillsons wrench. Remove and discard the lock wash-
ers. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Install the new lock washer to the
rack,
ensuring that the lockwasher tangs are located in the
rack end. (2) Install the ball housing as semblies to the rack.
Tighten the ball housings to the specified torque and
secure by bending the lock washer. (3) Before installing the rubber boots ensure that
the vent holes, located towards each end of the rack
near the ball housings, are clear. If necessary clear the
hole with a suitable probe. (4) Apply sealant to the la rge end of the rubber
boot and grease to the small end. and install the boots,
being careful not to damage or twist them. Secure the boots with the clamps and clip
s ensuring that the clips
are facing downwards.

(5) Install the t i e rod end locknuts and tie rod
ends to the t i e rod. Install the t i e rod ends the same
number of turns noted on removal. Tighten the lock-
nuts to the specified torque.

Install the power steerin g gear assembly to the
vehicle as described under the previous heading and
bleed the system as described under the heading In
Car Adjustments, Checks and Minor Repairs.

TO RENEW RUBBER BOOTS
The procedure to renew the rubber boots is fully
covered in the Manual Steering section under the
Steering Gear Assembly heading.

TO RENEW TIE ROD ENDS
The procedure to renew the t i e rod ends is fully
covered in the Manual Steering section under the
Steering Gear Assembly heading.

Front Suspension 157


Check the stabilizer bar links for wear and damage.
(3) Incorrect front end alignment: Check and
adjust the alignment as necessary. (4) Defective stabilizer bar mounting rubbers or
worn link ball joints: Renew component as necessary. (5) Weak or broken front coil spring: Renew
both springs as a matching pair. (6) Broken or weak rear coil spring: Renew both
springs as matching pair. (7) Drive shaft bent or distorted: Check and
renew as necessary. (8) Tie rod end worn or damaged: Check and
renew as necessary.
(9) Control arm ball joint worn or damaged:
Check and renew as necessary.
(10) Control arm mounting bolts loose: Tighten
the control arm bolts. (11) Wheel hub bearing worn: Check and renew
as necessary. NOTE: As a quick guide to suspension unit
condition, bounce the front of the vehicle up
and down (one side at a time), the vehicle
should come to rest in a single movement. If
it bounces two or three times before stop-
ping, the suspension unit should be renewed.
If the from of the vehicle is tower on one
side than the other, remove the coil spring
and check its free length against a new
spring. If the spring is found to be unservice-
able it is good practice to install two new
springs as a matching pair. This also applies
to the springs on the rear of the vehicle.

2. DESCRIPTION
The front suspension is an independent type
comprising two Macpherson strut suspension units
mounted vertically on each side of the vehicle. The
lower end of the suspension unit is bolted to the
steering knuckle, which in turn houses the front hub
bearings. The steering knuckle pivots on the control
arm by means of a ball joint.

The control arm pivots at its inner ends on rubber
bushes.

A stabilizer bar is attached to both ends of the
control arms using ball joint links. The stabilizer bar
is attached to the front underbody by brackets and
mounting rubbers.

Each front suspension unit assembly comprises a
tubular shock absorber type suspension unit, sur-
rounded at the upper end by a coil spring. On top of
the coil spring is the upper mounting which attaches
to the underside of the inner mudguard panel. The
piston rod of the suspensi on unit is attached to the
centre of the upper mounting by a rubber mounted
bearing.

When a suspension unit is found to be defective it
is recommended that both suspension units be re-
newed as a pair.

Camber is adjusted by means of a cam on the
upper steering knuckle to suspension unit mounting
bolt.

The kingpin inclination and caster are set in
production and cannot be adjusted. Any variation in
these angles will be caused by worn or damaged
components.

3. STEERING KNUCKLE
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Wheel Bearing — Press and press plates
and suitable tubes and mandrels
To Check Hub End Float — Dial gauge
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheel.


Checking the control arm bolts for security.

162 Front Suspension
the ball joint or bushes as described later in this
section.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) When installing the control arm bush
bracket, ensure that the protrusion on the bracket is
towards the inside of the vehicle.
(2) Do not fully tighten the control arm bush
bolts and through bolt nut until the curb weight of the
vehicle is on the suspension.
NOTE: Curb weight is with the vehicle
unladen except for a full tank of fuel and
normal amounts of oil and water and with
the spare lyre, jack and hand tools in their
normal positions.

(3) Tighten the ball joint nut to the specified
torque and retain with a new split pin.

TO CHECK AND RENEW BALL JOINT
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described.

(2) Install the ball joint nut and turn the ball
joint at least ten revolutions to ensure that the ball
joint is correctly seated. (3) Using a spring scale with the hook placed
over the split pin hole, check the ball joint swinging
torque. A new ball joint should measure 15.7-80.4 N
and a used ball joint should measure 7.8-80.4 N.
Renew the ball joint if necessary. (4) Using a small torque wrench or preload
gauge, measure the force requi red to rotate the ball
joint. A new ball joint should measure between
1.0-4.9 Nm and a used ball joint should measure
between 0.5-4.9 Nm. Renew the ball joint if neces-
sary.

(5) To renew the ball joint, remove the snap ring
from the stud end of the ball joint using snap ring
pliers. (6) Support the control arm in a press, ball joint
stud uppermost, with a suitable tube that is large
enough for the ball joint to pass through. (7) Press the ball joint out from the control arm.
(8) Press a new ball joint into the control arm
using a suitable tube that pushes on the outer circum-
ference of the joint only.
(9) Install the snap ring and install the
control
arm to the vehicle as previously described.

TO RENEW CONTROL ARM BUSHES
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described. Mark the position of the rear
control arm bush. (2) To remove the rear control arm bush use a
bearing puller and a press. When installing the bush
use a suitable tube that pushes on the inner edge of the
bush only. NOTE: Ensure that the bush is installed
with the flat portion in its original location.

(3)
To remove the front control arm bush use a
suitable tube that pushes on the outer circumference
of the bush and a split tu be supporting the control
arm. (4) After the bush has been pressed out approx-
imately half way, cut the protruding part of the bush
using a hacksaw. Cutting the bush in this way will
allow removal.
(5) Support the control arm and push the new
bush in from the outside using a suitable tube that
pushes on the outer circumference only. (6) Install the control ar m to the vehicle as
previously described.
6. STABILISER BAR
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands.

(2) Remove the bolts at the flexible joint retain-
ing the front engine pipe to the exhaust pipe located
below the stabilizer bar. (3) Remove the bolt from the exhaust pipe
mounting below the stabilizer bar. Disconnect the
exhaust pipe at the flexible joint and allow the front of
the pipe to hang down. (4) Remove the stabilizer bar bracket retaining
bolts and remove the stabilizer bar brackets from the
vehicle. (5) Remove the stabilizer bar lower link nuts
from each control arm. When removing the lower nuts
it may be necessary to hold the upper nuts with a
spanner.
(6) Maneuver the stabilizer bar from the
vehicle.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that the stabilizer bar mounting rub-
bers are in a serviceable condition and secure in the
mounting brackets.

Dismantled view of one end of the stabilizer bar.