121
CLUTCH
SPECIFICATIONS
Type................................................... Single dry plate
Operation................................................... Mechanical
Pressure plate type .................................... Diaphragm
Release bearing type .......................Prelubri cated ball
Driven plate:
Outside diameter .................................... 215 mm
Rivet depth limit ....................................0.3 mm
Runout limit .........................................0.5 mm
Maximum spline backlash ...................0.7 mm
Pressure plate:
Diaphragm spring height
(installed) ...................................... 30.5-32.5 mm
Spring finger vari ation limit.....................0.5 mm
Clutch pedal:
Height .............................................. 175-185 mm
Free play ....................................... 12.5-17.5 mm
Release lever free play............................ 2.5-3.5 mm
Flywheel machining limit ...............................0.3 mm
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Pressure plate bolts.......................................... 29 Nm
Pedal pivot pin nut ......................................... 22 Nm
Cable loc knut.................................................... 4 Nm
Lower clutch housing to engine bolts.............. 21 Nm
Centre and upper clutch housing
to engine bolts .................................................. 49 Nm
1. CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING
CLUTCH SLIPPING
(!) Worn driven plate facing: Check and renew
the clutch driven plate.
(2) Insufficient clutch pedal free play: Check and
adjust the clutch pedal free play. Ensure that the
release lever free play is correct.
(3) Weak or broken pressure plate diaphragm
spring: Check and renew the pressure plate assembly. (4) Worn or scored flywh eel: Machine or renew
the flywheel. Worn or scored pressure plate face: Renew the
pressure plate assembly.
Renew the clutch driven plate if the friction material is
worn down to, or is within 0.3 mm of the rivets.
NOTE: In most cases clutch slippage is first
evident by a marked increase in engine revs,
for no apparent reason, when pulling up a
steep hill. The clutch condition can be
positively diagnosed as follows: With the
handbrake firmly applied, and the rear
wheels chocked, select top gear and release
the clutch with the engine running at ap-
proximately 2 000 rpm. Clutch slippage is
evident if the engine does not stall. Make the
test as quickly as possible to prevent any
further clutch damage.
CLUTCH SHUDDER
(1) Oil on the driven plate facings: Renew the
clutch driven plate. Invest igate and rectify the source
of the oil leak.
(2) Scored pressure plate or flywheel face: Re-
new the pressure plate assembly or machine the
flywheel. (3) Loose or damaged driven plate hub: Check
and renew the clutch driven plate. (4) Loose driven plate facings: Renew the clutch
driven plate. (5) Cracked pressure plate face: Renew the pres-
sure plate assembly.
Manual Transaxle and Drive Shafts 137
Dismantled view of the gear lever assembly.
(7) Remove the bushes, spacer and O rings from
the bottom of the gear lever.
(8) Remove the nuts retaining the floor bracket
to the vehicle floor panel and remove the bracket from
the vehicle. (9) If necessary, disconnect the control rod and
the support rod from the transaxle and remove the
rods from the vehicle. (10) Check all the components for deterioration,
wear and damage. Renew the unserviceable compo-
nents as necessary. Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:
(1) Install all the components to the locations
noted during dismantling.
(2) Lubricate all the pivot points with multipur-
pose grease prior to assembly. (3) Tighten all the nuts securely.
(4) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
gear selection.
6. DRIVE SHAFTS
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Remove the dust cap from the centre of the
front hub. Remove the split pin and nut retainer from
the outer end of the drive shaft. (2) With an assistant applying the brakes, loosen
the nut on the outer end of the drive shaft.
(3) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. If necessary, refer to the Wheels and
Tires section for the correct jacking points.
Assembled view of the left hand side drive shaft
assembly.
(4) Remove the split pin and castellated nut
retaining the tie rod to the steering knuckle. (5) Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering
knuckle using a suitable puller or alternatively place a
hammer or dolly on one side of the steering knuckle
and strike the opposite side with a hammer.
(6) Remove the split pin and castellated nut
retaining the suspension ball joint to the bottom of the
steering knuckle. (7) Disconnect the suspension ball joint from
the steering knuckle using a suitable puller or alterna-
tively place a hammer or dolly on one side of the
steering knuckle and strike the opposite side with a
hammer. (8) Remove the retaining bolts and remove the
brake caliper from the stee ring knuckle. Refer to the
Assembled view of the right hand side drive shaft
assembly.
138 Manual Transaxle and Drive Shafts
Brakes section if necessary. Suspend the caliper with
wire or cord attached to the coil spring.
(9) Hold the steering knuckle and hub assembly
and tap the drive shaft out of the hub using a soft
faced hammer.
(10) Drain the oil from the transaxle into a
container.
(11) Prise the drive shaft out of the transaxle and
remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Ensure that the drive sh aft is firmly attached
to the differential side gear by attempting to pull the
shaft out of the gear. (2) Tighten all nuts securely and install new split
pins. (3) Fill the transaxle with the specified grade and
quantity of oil.
TO DISMANTLE AND ASSEMBLE
(1) Remove the drive shaft from the vehicle as
previously described.
(2) Remove and discard both the inner C.V.
joint boot retaining clips from the inner C.V. joint. (3) Roll back the large en d of the inner C.V.-
joint boot using a thin blade screwdriver, prise out the
C.V. joint retaining ring.
(4) Withdraw the C.V. joint housing from the
drive shaft and ball assembly. (5) Remove the inner snap ring retaining the ball
assembly to the drive shaft and withdraw the ball
assembly. (6) Remove the remaining inner C.V. joint re-
taining snap ring and the C.V. joint boot from the
drive shaft. (7) Noting their installed positions remove the
cage and ball assembly off the inner race and press the
balls out of the cage. (8) Remove and discard the clips retaining the
outer C.V. joint boot to the drive shaft and remove
the C.V. joint boot.
NOTE: The outer C.V. joint cannot be
dismantled.
(9) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and blow
dry with compressed air.
(10) Inspect the ball contact faces of the inner ball
race and C.V. joint housing for pitting and wear.
(11) Inspect the ball cage and the balls for wear
and damage. (12) Rotate the drive shaft with the outer C.V.
joint at a sharp angle and inspect the internal
components of the outer C.V. joint for wear and
damage. Renew if necessary by tapping the C.V. joint
from the drive shaft.
NOTE: Do not reuse the retaining snap ring
if the C. V. joint is removed from the drive
shaft.
(13) Check the C.V. joint boots for damage and
deterioration. (14) Renew all worn or damaged components as
necessary. Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:
(1) Thoroughly pack the outer C.V. joint with
molybdenum disulphide grease. (2) Install the outer C.V. joint boot and retain in
position using new retaining clips. Ensure that the
boot and the clips ar e correctly seated.
(3) Install the inner C.V. joint boot, small
end
first, onto the drive shaft and pull it well down the
shaft. (4) Install the outer snap ri ng for the inner C.V.
joint into its locating groove in the drive shaft. (5) Position the inner ball race inside the ball
cage with the chamfered end of the ball race towards
the small end of the cage. (6) Press the balls firmly into the ball cage,
ensure that the balls are fully seated. (7) Install the ball assem bly onto the drive
shaft
with the small end of the cage towards the outer C.V.
joint and install the inner snap ring retaining the
ball
assembly onto the drive shaft.
(8) Pack the C.V. joint with the prescribed
amount of molybdenum disul phide grease. Refer to
Specifications. (9) Install the C.V. joint retaining ring into the
C.V. joint housing. Ensure that the retaining ring is
correctly seated.
Dismantled view of the inner C.V. joint. Install the ball assembly onto the drive shaft, with the
small end of the cage towards the outer C.V. joint.
Automatic Transaxle 141
(2) Incorrectly adjusted kickdown cable: Check
and adjust or renew the kickdown cable as required.
NOTE: Check and adjust the throttle cable
before adjusting the kickdown cable.
ENGINE WILL NOT START IN P OR N
RANGE OR WILL START IN ANY RANGE
(1) Neutral safety switch faulty: Adjust or renew
the neutral safety switch. (2) Incorrectly adjusted selector cable: Check
and adjust the selector cable as detailed.
2. DESCRIPTION
The automatic transaxle combines a fluid coup-
ling or torque converter with a fully automatic three
speed epicyclic gear system.
The transaxle provides th ree forward ratios and
one reverse. The hydraulic system consists of a single
pump and valv e arrangement.
The final drive or differential and the transaxle
use a common lubricant. The transaxle oil pan and
final drive drain plug will have to be removed to drain
the transaxle completely. Topping up or refilling is
done through the dipstick tube.
The gear selector lever is floor mounted and
connected to the transaxle by an adjustable cable. The
selector quadrant adjacent to the base of the lever is
marked P, R, N, D, 2, 1.
It is necessary for the selector lever to be in P or
N before the engine can be started. When testing or
tuning the engine, the handbrake must be firmly
applied and the selector lever placed in the P position,
otherwise the vehicle could move forward or back-
wards as the engine speed is increased.
For long distance towing the vehicle should be
towed with the front end raised.
It is not possible to start the engine by either
towing or pushing the vehicle.
The transaxle can be removed from the vehicle
without engine removal.
NOTE: As extensive knowledge and equip-
ment is required to overhaul the automatic
transaxle assembly, it is therefore not a
worthwhile repair proposition for the aver-
age person. However if the transaxle must
be overhauled by a specialist or be replaced
with a reconditioned unit, the removal and
installation procedure is fully described at
the end of this section.
3. TRANSAXLE FLUID
Only use the recommended transaxle fluid speci-
fied by the manufacturer when topping up or changing
the fluid in the system.
TO CHECK AND TOP UP
NOTE: The fluid level should be checked
after approximately 5 minutes driving on
the road when the engine has achieved its
normal operating temperature of approxi-
mately 65 deg C.
(1) Place the vehicle on a level floor and open
the engine bonnet.
NOTE: When working on the automatic
transaxle cleanliness is very important. Do
not reuse transaxle fluid and do not allow
foreign matter to enter the filler opening.
(2) Clean around the top of the dipstick to
ensure that no dirt or foreign matter can enter the
dipstick tube.
(3) Place the selector in the P position and
firmly apply the handbrake. (4) Move the selector thro ugh each gear return-
ing it to the P position.
(5) Check the fluid level with the engine running
at idle. Install the dipstick fully into the dipstick tube.
NOTE: If the vehicle has been driven at high
speed, or has been towing a load, or driven
through heavy city traffic in hot weather, a
period of about 30 minutes should be
allowed to permit the transaxle to cool
before checking the fluid level.
(6) Withdraw the dipstick and check the fluid
level reading. The fluid should be at the H mark on
the dipstick. If the fluid is low, stop the engine and
remove the dipstick from the vehicle. Using a funnel,
top up the transaxle with the recommended type of
transaxle fluid through the dipstick tube. (7) If the level is reading too high allow the
engine to cool down for about 30 minutes and recheck
the level as described. If the level is still too high, a
small amount of transaxle fluid may be drained from
the transaxle.
Checking the fluid level on the automatic transaxle
dipstick.
142 Automatic Transaxle
(8) Install the dipstick and start the engine and
recheck the fluid level.
NOTE; Do not overfill the transaxle or
foaming and unsatisfactory operation of the
transaxle will result.
TO DRAIN AND REFILL
This is not a normal maintenance and lubrication
procedure. It is only necessary to drain the complete
system, including the torq ue converter and the oil
cooler, when the transaxle assembly is removed for
overhaul or the renewal of transaxle components such
as bearings, clutches or as semblies. When this condi-
tion arises, the torque converter and the cooler should
be cleaned and flushed to remove any dirt or sludge.
After transaxle overhaul, install approximately 6
liters of new transaxle fluid, and top up as previously
described.
4. BRAKE BAND
Band adjustment is not a normal maintenance
procedure.
The adjustment entails removal of the valve body
and for this reason the vehicle should be taken to an
authorized dealer.
5. KICKDOWN CABLE
TO ADJUST
(1) On models with a 1.6 liter engine, remove
the air cleaner assembly. (2) With the aid of an assistant, ensure that the
throttle valve is fully open when the throttle pedal is
fully depressed. (3) Push the clip on the outer kickdown cable
and pull the cable away from the throttle linkage.
View of the kickdown cable adjustment point. 1.6 liter
engine.
(4) Slowly depress the throttle pedal to the full
throttle position.
The outer kickdown cable will automatically ad-
just and emit a clicking noise.
6. TRANSAXLE SELECTOR LINKAGE
TO ADJUST CONTROL CABLE
(1) Place the selector lever in the Park position.
(2) Loosen the control cable locknuts and ensure
that the transaxle selector lever is in the Park position.
View of the transaxle selector linkage control cable
adjustment.
(3) Hold the selector rod horizontal and adjust
the outer locknut until it touches the selector rod.
(4) Tighten the inner locknut securely.
7. NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
The neutral safety switch, incorporating the re-
verse lamp switch is located on the transaxle case
View of the kickdown cable adjustment point. The
arrow indicates the direction in which the outer kick-
down cable must be pulled to initiate the automatic adjustment. 1.8 liter engine.
Automatic Transaxle 143
facing towards the radiator support panel at the front
of the vehicle.
The neutral safety switch allows electrical current
to pass to the starter circ uit only when the selector
lever is in the Park or Neutral position. The switch is
adjustable but non-repairable.
TO TEST
(1) Disconnect the neutral safety switch wiring
connector.
(2) Connect an ohmmeter between terminals 1
and 2 at the neutral safety switch wiring connector.
Continuity should exist when the selector lever is in
the P or N positions. (3) Perform the same check with terminals 3 and
4 with the selector lever in the R position. Continuity
should exist.
NOTE: If the readings are other than that
specified, the neutral safety switch will have
to be adjusted or renewed.
Neutral safety switch connector terminal identification.
TO ADJUST
(1) Select Neutral and firmly apply the hand-
brake. (2) Loosen the neutral safety switch retaining
bolts.
(3) Align the holes in the neutral safety switch
body and the neutral safety switch arm. (4) Install a 2.5 mm diameter split pin or drill bit
into the holes to align the arm with the neutral safety
switch body. (5) Secure the retaining bolts and test the switch
as previously described.
If the test indicates a fault, renew the neutral
safety switch.
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. (2) Remove the selector cable split pin and wave
washer from the transaxle selector lever.
(3) Disconnect the electric al connector and re-
move the neutral safety switch retaining bolts. (4) Maneuver the neutral safety switch clear of
the transaxle selector lever and withdraw the switch
from the vehicle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Clean the area around the neutral safety
switch mounting.
(2) Apply a small amount of chassis grease to the
jaws of the neutral safety switch arm. (3) Check the adjustment of the selector cable as
previously described. (4) Adjust the neutral safety switch as previ-
ously described.
(5) Check the operation of the neutral safety
switch and ensure that the engine will not start in any
position other than P and N. Check that the reversing
lamps operate only when R is selected.
8. TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
Special Equipment Required:
To Remove and Install — Suitable trolley jack to
which the transaxle can be secured
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the left hand front wheel.
(2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the left hand side inner mudguard
(3)
panel.
(4) Remove the left hand drive shaft as de-
scribed in the Manual Tran saxle and Drive Shafts
section. (5) Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor wiring,
selector control cable and the neutral safety switch
wiring from the transaxle. Disconnect the kickdown
cable from the throttle linkage and the support
bracket. (6) Disconnect the oil cooler hoses from the
Using a 2.5 mm drill bit to adjust the neutral safety
switch.
146 Steering — Part 1
STEERING PULLS TO ONE SIDE
(1) Uneven tire wear or pressures: Check the
condition of the tires and inflate to the recommended
pressures.
(2) Incorrect front wheel alignment: Check and
align the front end.
(3) Dragging brakes: Check each wheel for drag-
ging brakes. Overhaul the brakes as necessary. (4) Damaged suspension or crossmember: In-
spect and renew the damaged components. (5) Faulty power steering gear assembly: Re-
move the power steering gear for overhaul.
FRONT WHEEL WOBBLE OR SHIMMY
(1) Uneven tire wear or incorrect tire pressures;
Check the condition of the tires and inflate to the
recommended pressures. (2) Tire or wheel imbalance: Check and balance
as necessary (3) Worn or badly adjusted hub bearings: Check
the condition and adjust the front hub bearings.
(4) Faulty or worn suspension, units: Check and
overhaul or renew as a pair.
NOTE: Check the steering linkage as previ-
ously described. Raise the front of the vehi-
cle and check the adjustment of the hub
bearings by moving the road wheel in and
out at the top and bottom. No movement in
the bearings should be felt. Check the sus-
pension units as outlined in the Front Sus-
pension section.
STEERING ERRATIC OR WANDERING
(1) Incorrect or uneven wheel alignment setting:
Check and adjust th e steering geometry.
(2) Smooth front tires: Check and renew the
tires as necessary.
Checking the steering gear mounting bolts for security.
(3) Steering gear assembly loose on the cross-
member: Inspect for damage and tighten the steering
gear mounting bolts.
(4) Wear in the tie rod ball housing: Renew the
worn t i e rod and ball housing. (5) Wear in the rack and pinion: Remove the
steering gear assembly for overhaul. (6) Loose or incorrectly adjusted hub bearings:
Check and adjust the front hub bearings.
FAILURE OF POWER ASSISTANCE
(1) Loose or broken pump drive belt: Renew or
adjust the pump drive belt.
(2) Low fluid level in the power steering reser-
voir: Check for leakage, repair or renew the faulty
components. Top up the fluid level. (3) Insufficient power steering pump pressure:
Check the delivery pressure, renew the pump if
defective. (4) Faulty power steering gear assembly: Re-
move the power steering gear assembly for overhaul.
156
FRONT SUSPENSION
SPECIFICATIONS
Type.................. Independent MacPherson strut with
coil springs and control arms
Shock absorber .................. Hydraulic, non-repairable
Hub bearing end float (maximum) ............. 0.05 mm
Ball joint axial play (maximum) ....................0.7 mm
Ball joint turning torque (used)...............0.5-4.9 Nm
Wheel alignment:
Toe in ..................................................... 0-2 mm
Camber ........................................- 0 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
Caster ..............................................1 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
King pin inclination..................... 1 3 ° 5 5 ' ± 4 5 '
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Hub bearing nut..................................... 196-235 Nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle nut ...... 118 Nm
Suspension unit to body nuts ......................... 29 Nm
Piston rod nut .................................................. 72 Nm
Brake caliper to steering knuckle bolts ........... 52 Nm
Ball joint to steering knuckle bolt ................... 86 Nm
Control arm bracket bolts ............................... 98 Nm
Control arm pivot bolt ................................ 118 Nm
Stabiliser bar link nuts..................................... 44 Nm
Stabiliser bar bracket bolts .............................. 21 Nm
1. FRONT SUSPENSION TROUBLE
SHOOTING
FRONT END NOISE
(1) Loose upper suspension mounting or piston
rod: Tighten the mounting or piston rod nuts. (2) Loose or worn suspension unit lower ball
joint: Tighten or renew the lower ball joint.
(3) Noise in the suspension unit: Renew the
faulty suspension unit, preferably in pairs.
(4) Worn or loose steering gear: Overhaul the
steering gear assembly. (5) Worn front hub bearings: Renew the hub
bearings:
(6) Loose or defective stab ilizer bar, control arm
or mountings: Check, tighten or renew the mounting
rubbers.
Check the ball joints for wear and deterioration.
(7) Worn stabilizer bar link ball joints: Renew
the stabilizer bar links.
(8) Drive shafts worn or insufficiently lubri-
cated: Check the lubricant and the dust boots and
renew as necessary. (9) Drive shaft splines in the hub or the
differential worn or dama ged: Check and renew as
necessary.
NOTE: To check the front suspension com-
ponents for wear, raise the front of the
vehicle, support it on chassis stands and
allow both front wheel to hang free. With an
assistant pushing and pulling the front
wheels in and out at the top and then at the
bottom, check for excessive looseness at the
front hub bearings and lower control arm
inner pivot bushes. Noise or vibration in the
front end can also be caused by excessive
tire or wheel unbalance. Drive shaft joint
noise is usually more pronounced when
moving slowly with the steering on full lock.
POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING
ABILITY
(1) Low or uneven tire pressures: Inflate the
tires to the recommended pressures.
(2) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty
unit, preferably in pairs.