1987 NISSAN PULSAR recommended oil

70 Cooling and Heating Systems


Installed view of the heater hoses. 1.6 liter models with the air cleaner removed for clarity
.
When the engine is at normal operating
temperature and the heater valve is open,
both of the heater hoses should feel
warm/hot. If the valve is not allowing the
coolant to flow, one hose will be hot while
the other will be cold.

NO COOLED AIR INSIDE VEHICLE
(1) Compressor drive belt slipping or broken:
Renew and/or adjust the drive belt as described in the
Engine Tune-up section.
(2) Insufficient refrigerant: Check the system for
leaks and charge as necessary. Refer to the Air
Conditioning heading in th is section for information
on checking the refrigerant level. (3) Compressor inoperative: Check for power to
the compressor clutch before removing the compres-
sor for repair by a specialist. (4) Heater system allowing warm air to mix with
cooled air: Check the operation of the heater system.
NOTE: The above trouble shooting proce-
dures are basic checks only. If the air
conditioning system is suspect, it is rec-
ommended that the vehicle be taken to an
authorized dealer for testing and repair.
It is normal for water to be seen drain-
ing under the vehicle from the evaporator
after the vehicle has been operated with
the air conditioning on.

3. DESCRIPTION
The cooling system is of the sealed, pressurized
type with fan and water pump assistance. The system
is pressurized in order to raise the boiling point of the
coolant and so increase the efficiency of the engine.

Provision for pressure a nd vacuum relief of the
system is incorporated in the radiator cap.

The radiator overflow hose is connected to a
reserve tank mounted adjacent to the battery. As the
coolant volume expands due to an increase in tem-
perature, the pressure valve in the radiator cap opens
and allows the excess coolant to flow into the reserve
tank. When the engine is stopped and the temperature
of the coolant falls, the vacuum valve in the radiator
cap opens and allows the excess coolant in the reserve
tank to siphon back into the radiator. Thus the
necessity for frequent topping up of the coolant is
eliminated.

The temperature of the cooling system is con-
trolled by a thermostat located in the thermostat
housing attached to the cylinder head.

The thermostat prevents circulation of coolant
through the radiator by directing coolant through the
by-pass circuit, until the engine has reached operating
temperature. This restricted circulation allows the
engine to reach operating temperature quickly, im-
proving drivability and fuel economy.

Removal of the thermostat to cure overheating is
not recommended because th e by-pass circuit will
remain open reducing the amount of water flowing
through the radiator.

An anti-corrosion inhibitor should always be
added to the coolant to protect the cooling and
heating systems from corrosion.

The water pump is mounted to the front of the
engine and is driven by the camshaft drive belt. It is
equipped with a double row ball bearing and a spring
loaded seal assembly. The water pump is a disposable
unit and cannot be repaired.

The fan is driven by an electric motor which is
actuated by the coolant temperature sensor and the
control unit.

On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, an
additional electric fan is m ounted to the radiator. This
fan is controlled by a sw itch connected to the air
conditioning compressor.

The radiator consists of an aluminum core with
plastic side tanks. Minor damage to the core can be
repaired using Nissan repair agent.

The left hand tank of the radiator houses the
transaxle oil cooler on automatic transaxle models.

To drain the cooling system a drain plug is
provided on the lower radiator pipe outlet.

4. RADIATOR
NOTE: To avoid scalding, use caution when
releasing the radiator cap on an engine
which is at the normal operating tempera-
ture. Turn the cap anti-clockwise to the first
stop and allow any pressure in the system to
release. When the pressure is released turn
the cap past the stop and remove it from the
radiator.

Cooling and Heating Systems
11. BLOWER FAN
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Working below the glov e compartment, dis-
connect the wiring connector to the blower fan motor.
(3) Remove the bolts retaining the blower fan
motor and carefully lower the motor while disconnect-
ing the drain hose.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
( t ) Tighten all bolts securely.
(2) Check that the blow er fan operates correctly.

Dismantled view of the blower fan and associated
components.
12. AIR CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
The air conditioning system, when used in con-
junction with the heater, enables any reasonable tem-
perature to be achieved inside the vehicle. It can also
reduce the humidity of the incoming air, aiding
demisting even when cooling is not required.

The basic components of the air conditioning sys-
tem are an evaporator, co ndenser, compressor, re-
ceiver/dryer, expansion valve and pipes and hoses
carrying the refrigerant through the system. Various
subsidiary controls and sensors are also utilized to
protect the system against low or high pressure and
excessive temperature.

The refrigerant will boil at a very low tempera-
ture (-33 deg C) and therefore must be contained
under pressure. Escaping refrigerant can cause frost-
bite and eye damage and will produce a poisonous gas
when burnt. Also, if the system suffers a rapid loss of
refrigerant, oil from the compressor may be carried
out with the refrigerant. It is recommended that any
work requiring disconnection of the components be
referred to an au thorized dealer.

In the event of major repair s to the vehicle such as
engine removal, the compress or hoses are of sufficient


Schematic diagram of a typical air conditioning
system.
length to allow the compressor to be removed as the
engine is lowered from the engine compartment with-
out disturbing any refrigerant line connections.

If the operation of the air conditioning system is
in doubt, it is recommended that the vehicle be taken
to an authorized dealer for testing and repair.

TO CHECK REFRIGERANT CHARGE
(1) Start the engine and operate the air condi-
tioner on maximum cooling for a few minutes.
(2) Observe the flow of refrigerant through the
sight glass located at the top of the receiver/dryer. On
some models it may be necessary to use a mirror to
see the sight glass. (3) If the system is operating correctly, the sight
glass will be clear during the operation of the com-
pressor. Occasional bubbles may be seen when the
compressor cycles on and off during operation, but a
NUT j-
Bubbles in the sight glass when the air conditioner is
operating indicates a low refrigerant charge.

Cooling and Heating Systems 81
continuous stream of bubbles indicates that the refriger-
ant charge is low.

A large number of bubbles or foam indicates that
the refrigerant charge is very low.

No bubbles or the presen ce of oil streaks in the
sight glass indicate that the system is completely
empty.

NOTE: If the outside air temperature is
high, a certain number of bubbles may be
observed in the sight gl ass, even though the
system is fully charged.

If the system requires recharging, the vehicle
should be taken to an authorized dealer for evacu-
ation, leak testing and recharging.

Do not operate the system if it is known that the
refrigerant charge is low as damage may result.

MAINTENANCE
The air conditioning system requires l i t t l e main-
tenance other than the following. Where applicable,
refer to the Lubrication an d Maintenance section for
the recommended service intervals.

(1) Check the refrigerant charge level in the
receiver/dryer sight glass. Recharge the system as
necessary. It is considered normal for the system to
require periodic recharging. (2) Inspect the air conditioner pipes and hoses
for leaks, deterioration and alignment. Evidence of oil
leakage is an indication of refrigerant leakage. Repair
or renew as necessary.
(3) Inspect the evaporator drain tube and the
condenser cooling fins for blockage. Clean as neces-
sary.
(4) Check the drive belt for deterioration and for
correct tension. Refer to the Engine Tune-up section
for the correct procedure.
(5) Operate the system at least once a week for
approximately 15 minutes to keep the compressor
seals lubricated.

Fuel and Engine Management 89
The procedure for fabricating an LED test lamp is
fully described in the El ectrical System section.

If a conventional test lamp with a filament type
bulb is to be used, ensure that the current draw of the
test lamp does not exceed 0.3 amp to avoid damage to
the electronic components.

To check the current draw connect an accurate
ammeter, such as the multimeter described previ-
ously, in series with the test lamp and a battery.

If the ammeter reads less than 0.3 amp the test
lamp is suitable.

Tachometer
(1) Disconnect the resistor from the tachometer
pick-up wiring connector which is located on the
ignition coil wiring harness, and connect the positive
lead of an accurate tachometer to the brown wire
terminal in the wiring connector. (2) Connect the negative lead to a good earthing
point.

View showing the location of the tachometer pickup
wiring connector with the resistor installed.
Timing Light
(1) Connect the timing light to the engine fol-
lowing the instrument manufacturers instructions.

NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the
timing light with the engine running as
voltage surges could damage the alternator
or control unit. Do not allow the high
tension leads to open circuit with the engine
running as damage to the engine manage-
ment system could result.

(2) Do not connect the timing light positive lead
to the alternator output terminal. Where possible,
connect the power leads of the timing light to an
external power source to prevent possible transient
voltages damaging the alternator or control unit.

4. SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS AND ADJUSTMENTS
NOTE: Due to the use of complex electronic
components in the engine management sys-

tem, the diagnosis and testing procedures
described in this section should not be
carried out by persons lacking an under-
standing of electronics and the precautions
associated with the servicing of electronic
components. It is rec ommended that should
a fault arise in the system, the vehicle be
referred to an authorized workshop.

The control unit can be damaged by
component faults not indicated by the self
diagnosis codes and the renewal of the
control unit without lo cating the cause of
the failure will result in the failure of the
replacement unit. It is for this reason that
the practice of substituting components to
isolate faults is not recommended.

Prior to performing any of the follow-
ing operations, refer to the Service Pre-
cautions and Procedures heading.

PRELIMINARY CHECKS
Prior to performing the Self Diagnosis Test Pro-
cedures, perform the following preliminary checks and
rectify any problems as necessary.

(1) Check for an adequate supply of fuel in the
fuel tank. (2) Check the wiring connectors and earth points
of all engine management components for clean,
secure connections. To prevent damage to the control
unit, disconnect the negative battery terminal before
disconnecting any engine ma nagement wiring connec-
tors. (3) Check the condition of the battery. Refer to
the Electrical System sectio n for checking procedures.
Rectify any faults as necessary. (4) Check the air cleaner element for restriction.
(5) Check for air leaks at the throttle body, inlet
manifold and all related hoses. (6) Check the fuel pump pr essure as described
later in this section. (7) Ensure that the engine is in a satisfactory
mechanical condition and is in tune. Refer to the
Engine and Engine Tune-up sections as necessary.
SELF DIAGNOSIS

This function is very useful in locating system
faults particularly intermittent problems. However,
the self diagnosis mode does not provide comprehen-
sive testing of the engine management system, and
therefore should always be used in conjunction with
the other test procedures described later, in order to
accurately locate system faults.

To Interpret Self Diagnosis Codes
Once the self diagnosis mode is activated, various
fault codes will be displayed as a series of flashes by
the ECM warning lamp on the instrument cluster.

Manual Transaxle and Drive Shafts 129

renewed as individual units. The C.V. joints are
lubricated in manufacture and need no attention in
service unless one of the r ubber boots is damaged. In
this case the joint can be cl eaned and repacked with
the recommended grease and a new boot installed.

From July 1989, Pulsar Q and Vector SSS manual
transaxle models are equipped with a limited slip
differential incorporating a viscous coupling. The
coupling is not repairable and must be renewed as an
assembly if unserviceable. A test procedure for the
viscous coupling is included in the text in this section.

3. TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
Special Equipment Required:
To Dismantle and Assemble — Puller set, press
and press plates, dial gauge
To Measure Mainshaft Turning Torque —
Suitable slotted adaptor and torque gauge

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands.

(2) Remove the battery as described in the
Electrical System section. (3) Remove the drive shafts as described later in
this section. (4) Disconnect and remove the starter motor as
described in the Elect rical System section.

Front view of the transaxle removed from the vehicle.
(5) Support the rear of the engine using a jack
with a piece of timber between the jack head and the
engine sump.
(6) Remove the bolts retaining the clutch hous-
ing to the engine. (7) Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor wiring,
the reverse lamp wiring, the gear lever control rod and
the gear lever support rod from the transaxle. (8) Remove the transaxle mounting through bolt
and remove the bolts retaining the mounting bracket
to the transaxle.
(9) With the left hand front wheel removed,
remove the left hand inner mudguard panel. (10) Maneuver the transaxle away from the
engine. Lower and withdraw the transaxle from under
the vehicle.
NOTE: Do not allow the transaxle to hang
on the clutch driven plate during removal.
Support the transaxle on a trolley jack if
necessary.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Lubricate the input shaft splines sparingly
with lithium base molybdenum disulphide grease. (2) Support the transaxle during installation. Do
not allow the transaxle to hang on the clutch driven
plate. (3) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
(4) Fill the transaxle with the specified quantity
and grade of oil. (5) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
transaxle operation. Also ch eck for transaxle oil leaks
and rectify as necessary.
TO DISMANTLE

(1) Remove the clutch release components from Rear view of the transaxle removed from the vehicle.

Automatic Transaxle 141

(2) Incorrectly adjusted kickdown cable: Check
and adjust or renew the kickdown cable as required.

NOTE: Check and adjust the throttle cable
before adjusting the kickdown cable.

ENGINE WILL NOT START IN P OR N
RANGE OR WILL START IN ANY RANGE

(1) Neutral safety switch faulty: Adjust or renew
the neutral safety switch. (2) Incorrectly adjusted selector cable: Check
and adjust the selector cable as detailed.
2. DESCRIPTION

The automatic transaxle combines a fluid coup-
ling or torque converter with a fully automatic three
speed epicyclic gear system.

The transaxle provides th ree forward ratios and
one reverse. The hydraulic system consists of a single
pump and valv e arrangement.

The final drive or differential and the transaxle
use a common lubricant. The transaxle oil pan and
final drive drain plug will have to be removed to drain
the transaxle completely. Topping up or refilling is
done through the dipstick tube.

The gear selector lever is floor mounted and
connected to the transaxle by an adjustable cable. The
selector quadrant adjacent to the base of the lever is
marked P, R, N, D, 2, 1.

It is necessary for the selector lever to be in P or
N before the engine can be started. When testing or
tuning the engine, the handbrake must be firmly
applied and the selector lever placed in the P position,
otherwise the vehicle could move forward or back-
wards as the engine speed is increased.

For long distance towing the vehicle should be
towed with the front end raised.

It is not possible to start the engine by either
towing or pushing the vehicle.

The transaxle can be removed from the vehicle
without engine removal.

NOTE: As extensive knowledge and equip-
ment is required to overhaul the automatic
transaxle assembly, it is therefore not a
worthwhile repair proposition for the aver-
age person. However if the transaxle must
be overhauled by a specialist or be replaced
with a reconditioned unit, the removal and
installation procedure is fully described at
the end of this section.

3. TRANSAXLE FLUID
Only use the recommended transaxle fluid speci-
fied by the manufacturer when topping up or changing
the fluid in the system.

TO CHECK AND TOP UP
NOTE: The fluid level should be checked
after approximately 5 minutes driving on
the road when the engine has achieved its
normal operating temperature of approxi-
mately 65 deg C.

(1) Place the vehicle on a level floor and open
the engine bonnet.

NOTE: When working on the automatic
transaxle cleanliness is very important. Do
not reuse transaxle fluid and do not allow
foreign matter to enter the filler opening.

(2) Clean around the top of the dipstick to
ensure that no dirt or foreign matter can enter the
dipstick tube.
(3) Place the selector in the P position and
firmly apply the handbrake. (4) Move the selector thro ugh each gear return-
ing it to the P position.
(5) Check the fluid level with the engine running
at idle. Install the dipstick fully into the dipstick tube.
NOTE: If the vehicle has been driven at high
speed, or has been towing a load, or driven
through heavy city traffic in hot weather, a
period of about 30 minutes should be
allowed to permit the transaxle to cool
before checking the fluid level.

(6) Withdraw the dipstick and check the fluid
level reading. The fluid should be at the H mark on
the dipstick. If the fluid is low, stop the engine and
remove the dipstick from the vehicle. Using a funnel,
top up the transaxle with the recommended type of
transaxle fluid through the dipstick tube. (7) If the level is reading too high allow the
engine to cool down for about 30 minutes and recheck
the level as described. If the level is still too high, a
small amount of transaxle fluid may be drained from
the transaxle.

Checking the fluid level on the automatic transaxle
dipstick.

150 Steering — Part 2

View of the steering gear and associated components removed from the vehicle.
mark the universal coupling joint in relation to the
steering gear pinion as an aid to installation.

(2) Remove the bolt retaining the universal
coupling joint to the steering gear pinion. (3) Raise the front of the vehicle, support it on
chassis stands at the jack ing points and remove the
front wheels. Refer to the Wheel and Tires section.
(4) Remove the split pins and castellated nuts
from the tie rod end studs and disconnect the tie rod
ends from the steering arms.
NOTE: Disconnect each tie rod end by
placing a suitable dolly or hammer against
one side of the steer ing arm eye and striking
the opposite side with a hammer.

(5) Remove the bolts from the steering gear
mounting brackets. (6) Separate the steering gear pinion from the
universal coupling joint and maneuver the steering
gear from the vehicle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that the steering gear mounting
bracket rubbers are in good condition. Renew if
necessary.
(2) Renew the split pins on the tie rod castel-
lated nuts.
(3) Check and if necessary adjust the front wheel
toe in. Refer to the Front Suspension section for the
correct procedure.
TO OVERHAUL

To overhaul the steering gear a range of special
tools is required. If the steering gear has a fault
which requires the removal of the rack or pinion it
is recommended that the necessary repairs be car-
ried out by an authorized dealer.

TO RENEW TIE ROD BALL HOUSINGS
(1) Remove the steering gear from the vehicle as
previously described.
(2) Note or mark the installed position of the
mounting rubbers as an aid to assembly and remove
the rubbers from the steering gear.
(3) Thoroughly clean the exterior of the steering
gear in a suitable cleaning solvent.
(4) Secure the steering gear in a soft jawed vice
and centralize the rack in the steering gear. (5) Loosen both the ti e rod end locknuts and
unscrew the tie rod ends from the tie rods, noting the
number of turns required to do so. Remove the
locknuts from the tie rods. (6) Remove the tie rod rubber boot retaining
clamps, detach the boot s from the steering gear
housing and slide them from the tie rods. Take care to
position a container to catch the oil contained in the
steering gear assembly. (7) Where the tie rod ball housing is retained by
staking, drill the staking away from the rack and t i e
rod using a 4.0 mm drill. Do not drill into the rack
more than is necessary to drill out the staking.
Where the tie rod ball housing is retained by a
lock pin, drill out the lock pin from the ball housing
and tie rod using a 4.0 mm drill. Do not exceed a
drilling depth of 10.0 mm.

Using a 4.0 mm drill to remove the staking from the tie
rod ball housing.

156
FRONT SUSPENSION
SPECIFICATIONS
Type.................. Independent MacPherson strut with
coil springs and control arms
Shock absorber .................. Hydraulic, non-repairable
Hub bearing end float (maximum) ............. 0.05 mm
Ball joint axial play (maximum) ....................0.7 mm
Ball joint turning torque (used)...............0.5-4.9 Nm
Wheel alignment:
Toe in ..................................................... 0-2 mm
Camber ........................................- 0 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
Caster ..............................................1 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
King pin inclination..................... 1 3 ° 5 5 ' ± 4 5 '
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Hub bearing nut..................................... 196-235 Nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle nut ...... 118 Nm
Suspension unit to body nuts ......................... 29 Nm
Piston rod nut .................................................. 72 Nm
Brake caliper to steering knuckle bolts ........... 52 Nm
Ball joint to steering knuckle bolt ................... 86 Nm
Control arm bracket bolts ............................... 98 Nm
Control arm pivot bolt ................................ 118 Nm
Stabiliser bar link nuts..................................... 44 Nm
Stabiliser bar bracket bolts .............................. 21 Nm
1. FRONT SUSPENSION TROUBLE
SHOOTING

FRONT END NOISE
(1) Loose upper suspension mounting or piston
rod: Tighten the mounting or piston rod nuts. (2) Loose or worn suspension unit lower ball
joint: Tighten or renew the lower ball joint.
(3) Noise in the suspension unit: Renew the
faulty suspension unit, preferably in pairs.
(4) Worn or loose steering gear: Overhaul the
steering gear assembly. (5) Worn front hub bearings: Renew the hub
bearings:
(6) Loose or defective stab ilizer bar, control arm
or mountings: Check, tighten or renew the mounting
rubbers.

Check the ball joints for wear and deterioration.
(7) Worn stabilizer bar link ball joints: Renew
the stabilizer bar links.
(8) Drive shafts worn or insufficiently lubri-
cated: Check the lubricant and the dust boots and
renew as necessary. (9) Drive shaft splines in the hub or the
differential worn or dama ged: Check and renew as
necessary.

NOTE: To check the front suspension com-
ponents for wear, raise the front of the
vehicle, support it on chassis stands and
allow both front wheel to hang free. With an
assistant pushing and pulling the front
wheels in and out at the top and then at the
bottom, check for excessive looseness at the
front hub bearings and lower control arm
inner pivot bushes. Noise or vibration in the
front end can also be caused by excessive
tire or wheel unbalance. Drive shaft joint
noise is usually more pronounced when
moving slowly with the steering on full lock.

POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING
ABILITY

(1) Low or uneven tire pressures: Inflate the
tires to the recommended pressures.

(2) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty
unit, preferably in pairs.