1987 NISSAN PULSAR clutch

70 Cooling and Heating Systems


Installed view of the heater hoses. 1.6 liter models with the air cleaner removed for clarity
.
When the engine is at normal operating
temperature and the heater valve is open,
both of the heater hoses should feel
warm/hot. If the valve is not allowing the
coolant to flow, one hose will be hot while
the other will be cold.

NO COOLED AIR INSIDE VEHICLE
(1) Compressor drive belt slipping or broken:
Renew and/or adjust the drive belt as described in the
Engine Tune-up section.
(2) Insufficient refrigerant: Check the system for
leaks and charge as necessary. Refer to the Air
Conditioning heading in th is section for information
on checking the refrigerant level. (3) Compressor inoperative: Check for power to
the compressor clutch before removing the compres-
sor for repair by a specialist. (4) Heater system allowing warm air to mix with
cooled air: Check the operation of the heater system.
NOTE: The above trouble shooting proce-
dures are basic checks only. If the air
conditioning system is suspect, it is rec-
ommended that the vehicle be taken to an
authorized dealer for testing and repair.
It is normal for water to be seen drain-
ing under the vehicle from the evaporator
after the vehicle has been operated with
the air conditioning on.

3. DESCRIPTION
The cooling system is of the sealed, pressurized
type with fan and water pump assistance. The system
is pressurized in order to raise the boiling point of the
coolant and so increase the efficiency of the engine.

Provision for pressure a nd vacuum relief of the
system is incorporated in the radiator cap.

The radiator overflow hose is connected to a
reserve tank mounted adjacent to the battery. As the
coolant volume expands due to an increase in tem-
perature, the pressure valve in the radiator cap opens
and allows the excess coolant to flow into the reserve
tank. When the engine is stopped and the temperature
of the coolant falls, the vacuum valve in the radiator
cap opens and allows the excess coolant in the reserve
tank to siphon back into the radiator. Thus the
necessity for frequent topping up of the coolant is
eliminated.

The temperature of the cooling system is con-
trolled by a thermostat located in the thermostat
housing attached to the cylinder head.

The thermostat prevents circulation of coolant
through the radiator by directing coolant through the
by-pass circuit, until the engine has reached operating
temperature. This restricted circulation allows the
engine to reach operating temperature quickly, im-
proving drivability and fuel economy.

Removal of the thermostat to cure overheating is
not recommended because th e by-pass circuit will
remain open reducing the amount of water flowing
through the radiator.

An anti-corrosion inhibitor should always be
added to the coolant to protect the cooling and
heating systems from corrosion.

The water pump is mounted to the front of the
engine and is driven by the camshaft drive belt. It is
equipped with a double row ball bearing and a spring
loaded seal assembly. The water pump is a disposable
unit and cannot be repaired.

The fan is driven by an electric motor which is
actuated by the coolant temperature sensor and the
control unit.

On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, an
additional electric fan is m ounted to the radiator. This
fan is controlled by a sw itch connected to the air
conditioning compressor.

The radiator consists of an aluminum core with
plastic side tanks. Minor damage to the core can be
repaired using Nissan repair agent.

The left hand tank of the radiator houses the
transaxle oil cooler on automatic transaxle models.

To drain the cooling system a drain plug is
provided on the lower radiator pipe outlet.

4. RADIATOR
NOTE: To avoid scalding, use caution when
releasing the radiator cap on an engine
which is at the normal operating tempera-
ture. Turn the cap anti-clockwise to the first
stop and allow any pressure in the system to
release. When the pressure is released turn
the cap past the stop and remove it from the
radiator.

121
CLUTCH
SPECIFICATIONS
Type................................................... Single dry plate
Operation................................................... Mechanical
Pressure plate type .................................... Diaphragm
Release bearing type .......................Prelubri cated ball
Driven plate:
Outside diameter .................................... 215 mm
Rivet depth limit ....................................0.3 mm
Runout limit .........................................0.5 mm
Maximum spline backlash ...................0.7 mm
Pressure plate:
Diaphragm spring height
(installed) ...................................... 30.5-32.5 mm
Spring finger vari ation limit.....................0.5 mm
Clutch pedal:
Height .............................................. 175-185 mm
Free play ....................................... 12.5-17.5 mm
Release lever free play............................ 2.5-3.5 mm
Flywheel machining limit ...............................0.3 mm
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Pressure plate bolts.......................................... 29 Nm
Pedal pivot pin nut ......................................... 22 Nm
Cable loc knut.................................................... 4 Nm
Lower clutch housing to engine bolts.............. 21 Nm
Centre and upper clutch housing
to engine bolts .................................................. 49 Nm
1. CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING
CLUTCH SLIPPING
(!) Worn driven plate facing: Check and renew
the clutch driven plate.

(2) Insufficient clutch pedal free play: Check and
adjust the clutch pedal free play. Ensure that the
release lever free play is correct.
(3) Weak or broken pressure plate diaphragm
spring: Check and renew the pressure plate assembly. (4) Worn or scored flywh eel: Machine or renew
the flywheel. Worn or scored pressure plate face: Renew the
pressure plate assembly.


Renew the clutch driven plate if the friction material is
worn down to, or is within 0.3 mm of the rivets.
NOTE: In most cases clutch slippage is first
evident by a marked increase in engine revs,
for no apparent reason, when pulling up a
steep hill. The clutch condition can be
positively diagnosed as follows: With the
handbrake firmly applied, and the rear
wheels chocked, select top gear and release
the clutch with the engine running at ap-
proximately 2 000 rpm. Clutch slippage is
evident if the engine does not stall. Make the
test as quickly as possible to prevent any
further clutch damage.

CLUTCH SHUDDER
(1) Oil on the driven plate facings: Renew the
clutch driven plate. Invest igate and rectify the source
of the oil leak.
(2) Scored pressure plate or flywheel face: Re-
new the pressure plate assembly or machine the
flywheel. (3) Loose or damaged driven plate hub: Check
and renew the clutch driven plate. (4) Loose driven plate facings: Renew the clutch
driven plate. (5) Cracked pressure plate face: Renew the pres-
sure plate assembly.

122 Clutch


Check the engine mountings for damage and deterio- ration.
NOTE: Clutch shudder is usually most
evident when reversing up an incline. As
loose or damaged engine mountings are a
cause for clutch shudder, thoroughly check
the engine mounting rubbers and mounting
hardware for damage or looseness before
removing the clutch for inspection.

CLUTCH GRAB
(1) Oil soaked driven plate facings: Renew the
clutch driven plate. Invest igate and rectify the source
of the oil leak.
(2) Cracked pressure plate face: Renew the pres-
sure plate assembly. (3) Loose or broken engine mountings: Check
and renew the engine mountings as necessary.
(4) Binding release mechanism: Check the oper-
ation of the release mechanism.
NOTE: Visually check the operation of the
cable actuated release mechanism. Check
the inner cable for fraying and jamming in
the outer cable.

INSUFFICIENT CLUTCH RELEASE
(1) Stretched, frayed or broken clutch cable:
Check and renew the clutch cable. (2) Worn or damaged release mechanism: Check
and renew components as necessary. (3) Insufficient pedal height: Check and adjust
the pedal height.
(4) Warped clutch driven plate: Renew the
clutch driven plate. (5) Excessive clutch release lever free play:
Check and adjust the release lever free play to
Specifications.
NOTE: Visually check that the clutch cable
operates the release lever before removing
the clutch for inspection.

RELEASE BEARING NOISE
(1) Dry or worn release bearing: Check and
renew the release bearing.
(2) Damaged pressure plate diaphragm spring;
Check and renew the pressure plate assembly.
NOTE: Lightly depress the clutch pedal with
the engine running to check for release
bearing noise. If the release bearing is faulty
and has to be renewed, always check the
other clutch components.


Check the diaphragm spring fingers for scoring and damage.
2. DESCRIPTION
The clutch consists of a single, dry, driven plate
assembly, splined to slide on the transaxle input shaft.
A diaphragm spring type pr essure plate assembly is
bolted to the engine flywheel.

The driven plate is sandwiched between the
pressure plate and the flywheel and transmits the
drive from the engine to the transaxle.

Cushion rubbers are interposed between the hub
of the driven plate assembly and the plate friction
surfaces in order to cushion the drive.

The release mechanism is actuated by the clutch
pedal through a cable to the release lever and bearing.

Operation of the clutch pedal moves the release
lever which pushes the release bearing into contact
with the diaphragm spring fingers, forcing the dia-
phragm centre towards the flywheel. When the outer
edge of the diaphragm deflects, the clutch is caused to
disengage.

Clutch pedal free play is adjusted at the release
lever end of the clutch cable.

Clutch pedal height is adjusted at the pedal stop
on the pedal mounting bracket located under the
dashboard.

Clutch 123
3. CLUTCH UNIT AND RELEASE MECHANISM

Special Equipment Required:
To Install — Clutch aligning tool
TO REMOVE
(1) Remove the transaxle from the vehicle as
described in the Manual Transaxle section. (2) Mark the pressure plate cover in relation to
the flywheel to ensure installation to the original
location. (3) Progressively loosen and remove the pressure
plate assembly retaining bolts working in a diagonal
sequence across the assembly. (4) Remove the pressure plate and driven plate
assemblies from the flywheel. Note the installed
direction of the driven plate to aid assembly.
(5) Disengage the clips retaining the release
bearing carrier to the release fork and slide the release
bearing assembly out of the clutch housing. Note the
installed position of the re taining clips to aid assem-
bly. (6) Align the release fork retaining pins with the
slots in the clutch housing and remove the pins using
a pin punch.
(7) Remove the release lever and shaft and
withdraw the release fork and return spring from the
clutch housing.
TO CHECK AND INSPECT

(1) Check the driven plate facings. Renew the
driven plate if the facings are worn down to within
0.3 mm of the rivet heads or are gummy and oil
soaked.
(2) Check the driven plate hub cushion rubbers
for deterioration and damage. Renew the driven plate
if the hub is damaged. (3) Mount the driven plate on the transaxle
input shaft and measure the spline backlash at the
outer edge of the driven plate. Renew the driven plate
if the spline backlash is beyond Specifications. (4) Check the pressure pl ate assembly for wear
on the diaphragm spring fingers, cracked diaphragm
spring and a cracked or distorted cover. Check that
the pressure plate face is not badly scored.

(5) Check the flywheel face for heat cracks, burn
marks and scoring. Renew the flywheel if it is badly
scored.

NOTE: Slight glazing or burn marks on the
pressure plate or flywheel faces can be
corrected using emery paper. Minor scoring
on the flywheel face may be corrected by
machining the flywheel.

(6) Rotate the release bearing by hand and check
for noise or roughness. Renew the bearing and carrier
as an assembly if fa ults are found.
(7) Check the release lever and shaft for wear
and damage. Renew as necessary.
(8) Check the release shaft bushes and seal for
wear or damage. Renew as necessary.
(9) Check the release fork for wear and the
return spring for fatigue. Renew as necessary.
TO INSTAL

(1) Sparingly apply lithium base molybdenum
disulphide grease to the tr ansaxle input shaft splines,
release bearing carrier bore and rear contact surfaces,
release shaft bushes and release fork contact surfaces.
Slide the driven plate onto the transaxle input shaft
and remove the excess grease from the splines. (2) Install the release shaft to the clutch housing,
return spring and release fork. Install the retaining pins
Dismantled view of the flywheel, driven plate and
clutch pressure plate.
Dismantled view of the clutch release components.

124 Clutch


Illustration showing the clutch aligning tool. The tool
can be readily fabricated from a length of round section
wood or metal. Dimension A = diameter of the ma-
chined section of the crankshaft. Dimension B - inside
diameter of the driven plate hub.
to the release fork ensuring that the return spring is
correctly anchored.

(3) Install the release bearing to the clutch hous-
ing and install the clips re taining the release bearing
carrier to the release fork. (4) Install the driven plate to the flywheel in the
direction noted on removal. Install the aligning tool to
hold the driven plate in position.
NOTE: Some driven plates are marked
Flywheel side to indicate the correct in-
stalled direction.

(5) Install the pressure plate to the flywheel in the
position marked on removal. (6) Ensure that the driven plate is correctly
centered and install the pressure plate retaining
bolts.
Tighten the bolts progressively in a diagonal sequence
to the specified torque. (7) Install the transaxle to the vehicle as de-
scribed in the Manual Transaxle section. (8) Adjust the clutch pedal height and free play
as described under the Adjustments heading later in
this section.
4. CLUTCH PEDAL

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Working in the engine compartment, loosen
the adjusting nut and disconnect the inner clutch
cable from the clutch release lever at the clutch
housing.
(2) Working inside the vehicle, release the inner
clutch cable from the top of the clutch pedal.
(3) Remove the nut from the end of the clutch
pedal pivot pin. (4) Note the installed position of the clutch
pedal return spring and remove the pivot pin from the
clutch pedal.
(5) Remove the clutch pedal from the vehicle
and remove the bush from the clutch pedal. (6) Examine the clutch pedal and the bush for
bend, cracks, wear and damage. Examine the return

Installed view of the clutch pedal.
spring for cracks and fatigue. Renew parts as neces-
sary.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Lubricate the hook on the top of the clutch
pedal and the pivot pin and bush with lithium base
molybdenum disulphide grease. (2) Install the return spring to the position noted
on removal. (3) If necessary, adjust the pedal height and free
play as described under the Adjustments heading later
in this section.
5. CLUTCH CABLE

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Working in the engine compartment, loosen
the adjusting nut and disconnect the inner clutch
cable from the clutch release lever at the clutch
housing.
(2) Release the outer clutch cable retaining nut
and slide the outer cable out of the slot in the
mounting bracket.
View of the clutch cable assembly.

Clutch 125
(3) Remove the nuts retaining the outer cable
flange to the vehicle bulkhead.
(4) Working inside the ve hicle, disconnect the
inner cable from the top of the clutch pedal. (5) Pull the clutch cable through the bulkhead
into the engine compartment. (6) Release the clip retaining the centre of the
clutch cable and remove the cable from the vehicle. (7) Check the inner cable for fraying, wear and
damage. Check the outer cable for kinks, wear and
damage. If necessary, renew the cable assembly. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Lubricate the inner cable ends with lithium
base molybdenum disulphide grease prior to installa-
tion. (2) Tighten the nuts retaining the outer cable
flange to a torque of 11 Nm. (3) Check and if necessary , adjust the clutch
pedal height and free play as described under the
heading Clutch Adjustments.
6. CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS
TO ADJUST PEDAL HEIGHT (1) Fold back the floor carpet and the sound
insulation from the drivers side floor panel.
(2) Measure the distance at right angles from the
floor panel to the centre of the pedal pad. (3) If the pedal height is not as specified, adjust
the pedal stop bolt until the correct pedal height is
obtained.

TO ADJUST PEDAL AND RELEASE LEVER
FREE PLAY
(1) Loosen the inner cable locknut at the release
lever clevis. (2) Push the release lever until resistance is felt
when the release bearing contacts the pressure plate
fingers and hold the release lever in this position.
(3) Tighten the inner cable adjusting nut until
the inner cable is taut.
(4) Loosen the adjusting nut 2.5-3.5 turns and
tighten the inner cable locknut. (5) Measure the release lever free play. If the free
play is not as specified, loosen the locknut and turn
the adjusting nut until the correct free play is
obtained.

View of the clutch release lever free play adjusting
nut.
(6) Lightly depress the clutch pedal until resis-
tance is felt when the release bearing contacts the
pressure plate fingers. Measure the distance from the
centre of the pedal pad in this position to the centre
of the pedal pad when the pedal is contacting the stop
bolt. If necessary, check and adjust the release lever
free play which should bring the pedal free play within
Specifications.

Measuring the clutch pedal height with the carpet
removed.

126
MANUAL TRANSAXLE AND DRIVE SHAFTS

SPECIFICATIONS
TRANSAXLE
Type .....................................Five speed, synchromesh
on all forward gears
Model .......................................................... RS5F31A
Gear ratios: 1.6 liter -

First .......................................................... 3.333:1
Second...................................................... 1.955:1
Third......................................................... 1.286:1
Fourth....................................................... 0.975:1
Fifth.......................................................... 0.810:1
Reverse .................................................... 3.417:1
1.8 liter -
First .......................................................... 3.063:1
Second...................................................... 1.826:1
Third......................................................... 1.286:1
Fourth ....................................................... 0.975:1
Fifth.......................................................... 0.810:1
Reverse .................................................... 3.417:1
Gear end float:
Fifth...............................................0.18-0.41 mm
Second, third and fourth................0.20-0.40 mm
First ...............................................0.18-0.31 mm
Synchro ring to gear clearance:
Standard ............................................ 1.0-1.3 mm
Minimum ................................................. 0.7 mm
Turning torque (new bearings):
Differential assembly ........................ 3.9-7.8 Nm
Total differential and mainshaft __ 5.9-13.7 Nm
Differential and final drive:
Type ........................ Helical ring gear and pinion
Ratio......................................................... 4.167:1
Lubricant:
Grade ............................................. 80W-90 GL-4
Capacity ..................................................2.7 liters
DRIVE SHAFTS
C.V. joint lubrication:
Lubricant ........ Valvoline Special Moly EP grease
Amount ................................................. 40 grams
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Transaxle case retaining bolts ........
Cover plate to transaxle case .......................... 8.3 Nm
Input shaft bearing retainer bolts ..................... 21 Nm
Control bracket bolts ...................................... 8.3 Nm
Reverse check plug.......................................... 25 Nm
Ring gear to differential case........................... 88 Nm
Filler and drain plugs....................................... 34 Nm
Reverse lamps switch ...................................... 29 Nm
Upper and centre clutch housing to engine…...49 Nm
Lower clutch housing to engine ...................... 21 Nm

1. MANUAL TRANSAXLE AND DRIVE
SHAFT
TROUBLE SHOOTING

DIFFICULT GEAR CHANGE
(1) Faulty clutch or clutch release mechanism:
Check and adjust or overhaul the clutch or the clutch
release mechanism. (2) Loose control bracket retaining bolts: Dis-
mantle the transaxle and tighten the control bracket
retaining bolts. Apply Loctite or an equivalent to the
bolt threads to prevent a repeat of the problem.
(3) Faulty gear lever assembly: Check and
renew
or repair the gear lever assembly. (4) Bent or worn gear lever control rod: Repair
or renew the faulty components. (5) Worn transaxle selector mechanism: Over-
haul the transaxle assembly. Renew components as
necessary.
.21 NmCheck the synchronizing teeth on the gears and synchro
rings for chipping or wear.

Manual Transaxle and Drive Shafts 127
(6) Lubricating oil too thick: Drain the transaxle
and refill with the corre ct amount and grade of
lubricating oil. (7) Excessive end float in the mainshaft or input
shaft gears: Overhaul the transaxle.
NOTE: Check the clutch for correct opera-
tion. If reverse gear can be selected without
any gear clash this is a good indication that
the clutch is operating normally. Also check
that the correct type and grade of lubricating
oil is being used.

SLIPPING OUT OF GEAR
(1) Worn gear control rod assembly bushes:
Check and renew the worn components as necessary. (2) Faulty gear lever assembly: Check and renew
the faulty components. (3) Faulty synchroniser mechanism: Overhaul
the transaxle.

Check the engine mountings for damage and deterio-
ration.
(4) Worn or fatigued detent components: Renew
the faulty components as necessary.
(5) Excessive end float in the mainshaft or input
shaft: Overhaul the transaxle. Check and renew the
faulty components.
NOTE: In most cases, slipping out of gear is
caused by wear or damage to internal
components of (he tran saxle. However, prior
to removing and dismantling the transaxle
assembly, check the engine mounting rub-
bers and mounting hardware as vibrations
caused by loose or deteriorated engine
mountings can cause the transaxle to slip
out of gear.

GEARS CLASH ON CHANGING DOWN
(1) Faulty clutch or clutch release mechanism:
Check, adjust or overhaul the clutch or the clutch
release mechanism.


Check the friction surface of the synchro rings and cones
for wear or damage.
(2) Faulty synchro rings or cones: Overhaul the
transaxle assembly.
(3) Lubricating oil too thick: Drain the transaxle
and refill with the correct grade and quantity of
lubricating oil. (4) Broken, weak or incorrect positioning of the
springs in the synchro asse mblies: Overhaul the tran-
saxle assembly.
(5) Excessive end float in the mainshaft or input
shaft gears: Overhaul the transaxle assembly.
NOTE: Check the clutch as previously de-
scribed prior to removing and dismantling
the transaxle. Also check that the correct
grade of transaxle oil is being used.

TRANSAXLE NOISE (IN NEUTRAL)
(1) Insufficient lubricant: Fill the transaxle with
the correct quantity and grade of lubricant. (2) Worn input shaft bearings: Overhaul the
transaxle and renew the bearings. (3) Chipped or pitted constant mesh gears:
Overhaul the transaxle and renew the damaged com-
ponents as necessary. (4) Worn mainshaft bearings: Overhaul the tran-
saxle as necessary.
NOTE: First check the oil level in the
transaxle. To isolate the noise in neutral,
run the engine, depress the clutch and
engage any gear. If the noise ceases with the
clutch depressed it indicates that the noise is
in the transaxle.

Check the input shaft for damaged gears.