1987 NISSAN PULSAR air suspension

156
FRONT SUSPENSION
SPECIFICATIONS
Type.................. Independent MacPherson strut with
coil springs and control arms
Shock absorber .................. Hydraulic, non-repairable
Hub bearing end float (maximum) ............. 0.05 mm
Ball joint axial play (maximum) ....................0.7 mm
Ball joint turning torque (used)...............0.5-4.9 Nm
Wheel alignment:
Toe in ..................................................... 0-2 mm
Camber ........................................- 0 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
Caster ..............................................1 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
King pin inclination..................... 1 3 ° 5 5 ' ± 4 5 '
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Hub bearing nut..................................... 196-235 Nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle nut ...... 118 Nm
Suspension unit to body nuts ......................... 29 Nm
Piston rod nut .................................................. 72 Nm
Brake caliper to steering knuckle bolts ........... 52 Nm
Ball joint to steering knuckle bolt ................... 86 Nm
Control arm bracket bolts ............................... 98 Nm
Control arm pivot bolt ................................ 118 Nm
Stabiliser bar link nuts..................................... 44 Nm
Stabiliser bar bracket bolts .............................. 21 Nm
1. FRONT SUSPENSION TROUBLE
SHOOTING

FRONT END NOISE
(1) Loose upper suspension mounting or piston
rod: Tighten the mounting or piston rod nuts. (2) Loose or worn suspension unit lower ball
joint: Tighten or renew the lower ball joint.
(3) Noise in the suspension unit: Renew the
faulty suspension unit, preferably in pairs.
(4) Worn or loose steering gear: Overhaul the
steering gear assembly. (5) Worn front hub bearings: Renew the hub
bearings:
(6) Loose or defective stab ilizer bar, control arm
or mountings: Check, tighten or renew the mounting
rubbers.

Check the ball joints for wear and deterioration.
(7) Worn stabilizer bar link ball joints: Renew
the stabilizer bar links.
(8) Drive shafts worn or insufficiently lubri-
cated: Check the lubricant and the dust boots and
renew as necessary. (9) Drive shaft splines in the hub or the
differential worn or dama ged: Check and renew as
necessary.

NOTE: To check the front suspension com-
ponents for wear, raise the front of the
vehicle, support it on chassis stands and
allow both front wheel to hang free. With an
assistant pushing and pulling the front
wheels in and out at the top and then at the
bottom, check for excessive looseness at the
front hub bearings and lower control arm
inner pivot bushes. Noise or vibration in the
front end can also be caused by excessive
tire or wheel unbalance. Drive shaft joint
noise is usually more pronounced when
moving slowly with the steering on full lock.

POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING
ABILITY

(1) Low or uneven tire pressures: Inflate the
tires to the recommended pressures.

(2) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty
unit, preferably in pairs.

Front Suspension 157


Check the stabilizer bar links for wear and damage.
(3) Incorrect front end alignment: Check and
adjust the alignment as necessary. (4) Defective stabilizer bar mounting rubbers or
worn link ball joints: Renew component as necessary. (5) Weak or broken front coil spring: Renew
both springs as a matching pair. (6) Broken or weak rear coil spring: Renew both
springs as matching pair. (7) Drive shaft bent or distorted: Check and
renew as necessary. (8) Tie rod end worn or damaged: Check and
renew as necessary.
(9) Control arm ball joint worn or damaged:
Check and renew as necessary.
(10) Control arm mounting bolts loose: Tighten
the control arm bolts. (11) Wheel hub bearing worn: Check and renew
as necessary. NOTE: As a quick guide to suspension unit
condition, bounce the front of the vehicle up
and down (one side at a time), the vehicle
should come to rest in a single movement. If
it bounces two or three times before stop-
ping, the suspension unit should be renewed.
If the from of the vehicle is tower on one
side than the other, remove the coil spring
and check its free length against a new
spring. If the spring is found to be unservice-
able it is good practice to install two new
springs as a matching pair. This also applies
to the springs on the rear of the vehicle.

2. DESCRIPTION
The front suspension is an independent type
comprising two Macpherson strut suspension units
mounted vertically on each side of the vehicle. The
lower end of the suspension unit is bolted to the
steering knuckle, which in turn houses the front hub
bearings. The steering knuckle pivots on the control
arm by means of a ball joint.

The control arm pivots at its inner ends on rubber
bushes.

A stabilizer bar is attached to both ends of the
control arms using ball joint links. The stabilizer bar
is attached to the front underbody by brackets and
mounting rubbers.

Each front suspension unit assembly comprises a
tubular shock absorber type suspension unit, sur-
rounded at the upper end by a coil spring. On top of
the coil spring is the upper mounting which attaches
to the underside of the inner mudguard panel. The
piston rod of the suspensi on unit is attached to the
centre of the upper mounting by a rubber mounted
bearing.

When a suspension unit is found to be defective it
is recommended that both suspension units be re-
newed as a pair.

Camber is adjusted by means of a cam on the
upper steering knuckle to suspension unit mounting
bolt.

The kingpin inclination and caster are set in
production and cannot be adjusted. Any variation in
these angles will be caused by worn or damaged
components.

3. STEERING KNUCKLE
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Wheel Bearing — Press and press plates
and suitable tubes and mandrels
To Check Hub End Float — Dial gauge
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheel.


Checking the control arm bolts for security.

Front Suspension 163
(2) Ensure that the stabilizer bar links are in
good condition. Renew if necessary.
(3) When installing the stabilizer bar ensure that
the links are installed perpendicular to the control arm
with the ball joint socket face parallel to the end of the
stabilizer bar. (4) Ensure that the brackets are installed with
the flat portion facing towards the front of the vehicle.
Tighten the retaining bolts securely.
7. SUSPENSION AND STEERING ANGLES

ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Extensive knowledge and special-
ised equipment are required to measure and
correct the suspension and steering angles
with the exception of the front wheel toe in.
Therefore, as it is not a viable proposition
for the average person to carry out a com-
plete wheel alignment, the vehicle should be
taken to a wheel alignment specialist.

Prior to carrying out a wheel alignment, a thor-
ough inspection of the steering linkage, front hub
bearings, ball joints and suspension units should be
carried out. Faulty components should be renewed or
repaired as necessary.

The tread of the front ti res should be examined
for excessive or uneven wear as certain conditions of
tire wear are indicative of damaged or worn compo-
nents in the suspension, stee ring linkage and/or wheels
and bearings. Refer to the heading Tire Wear Trouble
Shooting in the Wheels and Tires section. If the tires
are found to be defective, renew them with serviceable
lyres.

TO CHECK AND ADJUST TOE IN/OUT
NOTE: The vehicle s hould be unladen ex-
cept for the normal amount of fuel and with
the tires inflated to the correct pressures.

(1) With the vehicle on a level floor, raise the
front of the vehicle and s upport it on chassis stands.
(2) Spin each front wheel in turn and using a
piece of chalk, mark a line around the periphery of
each tire as near to the centre as possible. (3) Lower the vehicle to the ground and bounce
the front several times to stabilize the suspension. (4) Set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
(5) Mark the centre chalk line on both tires at a
point approximately 200 mm above the floor and
forward of the suspension. (6) Using a tape measure, measure and record
the distance between the two marked points on the
tire centers.

Diagram indicating the front wheel toe in. Refer to
Specifications for the correct difference between
measurement A and B.
(7) Maintaining the wheels in the straight ahead
position, roll the vehicle forward until the marks are
the same distance from the floor but to the rear of the
suspension. (8) Again using the tape measure, measure and
record the distance between the marks on the tires.
(9) The difference between the front and rear
measurement will give the correct toe in/out reading.
If the larger measurement is at the front, the wheels
are in a toe out position. If the reverse is true, the
wheels are in toe in position. Compare the reading
obtained with the figure given in Specifications.
(10) If adjustment of the to e in/out is necessary,
loosen the tie rod locknuts on both sides. (11) Remove the retaining clips from the small
end of the steering rack rubber boots. (12) Turn the tie rods as required until the correct
toe in/out reading is obtained.
NOTE: It is important to turn each tie rod
equally to maintain the central position of
the steering gear. Ensure that the lengths of
the tie rods are the same.

(13) Tighten the tie rod locknuts to the specified
torque without changing the positions of the adjusters.
(14) Install the retaining clips to the small end
of
the steering rack rubber boots, ensuring that the boots
are not twisted.

164
REAR SUSPENSION
SPECIFICATIONS
Type........................... Independent MacPherson strut
Shock absorber.................... Oil filled, non-repairable
Maximum hub bearing end float ................. 0.05 mm
Rear wheel alignment:
Toe out ........................................3 mm ± 2 mm
Camber ............................................. - 1 ° ± 4 5 '
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Hub retaining nut ......................................... 255 Nm
Suspension unit retaining nuts ....................... 29 Nm
Upper mounting retaining nut ........................ 72 Nm
Suspension unit to knuckle nuts .................. 118 Nm
Control arms to knuckle nut ........................ 118 Nm
Control arms to crossmember nut ............... 118 Nm
Stabiliser bar mounting bracket bolts .......... 108 Nm
Stabiliser bar retaining nut.............................. 83 Nm
Backing plate bolts........................................... 45 Nm
1. REAR SUSPENSION TROUBLE SHOOTING
REAR END NOISE
( 1 ) Defective suspension unit or mounting: Re-
new the faulty components.

(2) Loose or worn control arm bushes or pivot
bolts: Check and tighten or renew the worn compo-
nents. (3) Broken coil spring: Renew the coil spring,
preferably in matching pairs. (4) Worn rear hub bearing: Check and renew the
hub bearing as necessary. (5) Loose or worn stabilizer bar bushes: Check
and tighten or renew the worn components.
NOTE: As a quick guide to suspension unit
condition, bounce the vehicle up and down
(one side at a time) and observe if the vehicle
comes to rest in a single movement If the
vehicle bounces two or three times before
coming to rest the susp ension unit is suspect.
If suspect, remove the suspension unit and
check for fractures and leaks. If the
suspension unit is found to be unserviceable,
it is good practice to install two new
suspension units as a matching pair.

To check the control arm bushes or pivot
bolts, insert a lever between the suspect unit
and its mounting and lever the unit back
and forth checking for excessive movement.

Check the coil springs visually for breaks.
If the spring is found to be unserviceable, it
is good practice to install two new coil
springs as a matching pair.

Rear hub bearing noise can be diagnosed
by raising and supporting the rear of the
vehicle, spinning one wheel at a time and
listening for a rumbling noise.

POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING ABILITY
(1) Low or uneven tire pressure: Inflate to the
recommended pressures.
(2) Incorrect rear wheel alignment: Check and
adjust the rear wheel alignment as necessary.
(3) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty
suspension unit, preferably in pairs. (4) Loose or broken stabilizer bar: Check and
tighten or renew the faulty components.
Check the stabilizer bar bushes and mounting rubbers
for wear and deterioration.

168 Rear Suspension
NOTE: If a coil spring is defective it is
advisable to renew both coil springs as a
matched set.

(13) Check the spring seat for cracks, deforma-
tion or wear and renew as necessary.
(14) Check the upper mounting and the insulator
for wear, damage, signs of melting rubber or deterio-
ration. (15) Check that the piston rod is not cracked,
bent or damaged.

Dismantled view of the suspension unit.
(16 ) Check the hydraulic operation of the suspen-
sion unit. With the suspension unit vertical, move the
piston rod up and down severa l times. A firm pressure
with no slack spots should be evident in both direc-
tions. Also check the suspen sion unit for fluid leakage.
If fluid leakage is present, renew the suspension unit,
preferably in pairs.

TO ASSEMBLE AND INSTAL
Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

(1) Install the coil spring and lower insulator to
the suspension unit ensuring th at the flat end of the
spring is positioned at the top and the lower end of the
spring is located correctly in the suspension unit.

(2) Install the remaining co mponents to the sus-
pension unit, ensuring that the arrow on the spring
seat will be facing the stub axle when installed.
(3) Install a new upper mounting retaining nut,
tighten to the specified tor que and remove the spring
compressor. (4) Position the suspension unit inside the rear
wheel housing and maneuver the mounting studs
into position. With the aid of an assistant, install the
suspension unit retaining nuts and tighten to the
specified torque.

View of the suspension unit removed from the vehicle.
(5) Install the bolts securin g the suspension unit
to the knuckle assembly and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque.
(6) Install the brake hose to the suspension unit
and secure with the retaining clip. (7) Install the rear wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground. (8) On hatchback models, install the parcel shelf
side panel and the parcel shelf. (9) On sedan models, install the parcel shelf and
insert the retaining buttons firmly. If removed, install
the radio speaker grilles.

Rear Suspension 169

5. CONTROL ARM
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Control Arm Bush — Press and suitable
removal tool

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands as describe d in the Wheels and Tires
section.

(2) Suitably mark the front and rear control
arms to ensure installation to the original locations.
NOTE: The front and rear control arms are
identical in appearance, however, on models
manufactured prior to March 1988 the
compound of the rubber bushes differ.

(3) Remove the nut and bolt securing the control
arms to the knuckle assembly.
(4) Suitably mark the rear inner pivot bolt cams
in relation to the crossmember to ensure correct
installation.
(5) Remove the rear control arm inner pivot
bolt, adjusting cam, nut and control arm from the
vehicle. (6) Remove the front control arm inner pivot
bolt, washer, nut and control arm from the vehicle.
(7) Inspect the control arm bushes for wear,
cracks and deterioration and renew as necessary. (8) Inspect the control arms for cracks, damage
and distortion and renew as necessary.
(9) Inspect the pivot bolts for damage and renew
as necessary. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Install the control arms to the original
loca-
tions, ensuring that the inner pivot bolts are installed
from the front of the crossmember.
(2) Align the marks on the rear inner pivot bolt

Dismantled view of the control arms and associated
components. Disc brake model.
cams and the crossmember that were made prior to
removal. Install the inner pivot bolt nuts but do not
tighten.

(3) Install the bolt that secures the control arms
to the knuckle assembly and tighten the nut finger
tight. (4) Lower the vehicle to the ground. With the
weight of the vehicle on th e rear wheels, ensure that
the marks on the inner pivot bolt cams and the
crossmember are aligned. (5) Tighten the inner and outer control arm
bolts and nuts to the specified torque. (6) Check and if necessary adjust the rear wheel
alignment. Refer to the Re ar Wheel Alignment head-
ing in this section.
TO RENEW CONTROL ARM BUSH

(1) Remove the control arm as previously de-
scribed. (2) Using a press and press plates or a bush
removal tool, remove the bush from the control arm.
NOTE: If a press or bush removal tool is not
available, a simple alternative can be made
using a long bolt, large and small washers, a
nut and a tubular spacer. This method is
illustrated in the General Information sec-
tion under the General Repair Procedures
heading.

(3) Install a new bush to the control arm
ensuring
that it is pressed squarely into the control arm. When
installed, the bush should be equidistant from either
end of the control arm bore. (4) Install the control arm as previously de-
scribed.
Ensure that the cam and the crossmember are suitably
marked prior to loosening the nut.

180 Brakes
the caliper body. Plug the brake hose to prevent the
loss of fluid and the ingress of dirt. Remove and
discard the sealing washers.

(3) Remove the guide bolts and slide the caliper
body from the anchor plate and pad assembly. (4) Remove the piston dust cover retaining clip.
Remove and discard the dust cover.
BRAKEPAD BRAKE PAD
Dismantled view of the front brake caliper.
(5) Place a piece of wood in front of the piston
and using low air pressure applied to the brake hose
aperture, gently force the piston from the caliper bore.
(6) Using a thin blunt probe, preferably made
from wood or plastic, remove and discard the piston
seal from the groove in the caliper bore. (7) Clean all the caliper components in methyl-
ated spirits and arrange the components in order, on
a clean, dry surface to aid in assembly.
To Inspect

(1) Inspect the caliper bore and piston for pit-
ting, wear or damage. Renew the caliper assembly or
piston if damage is evident.

NOTE: Slight rust spots in the caliper bore
may he removed with fine emery paper. The
piston must not be polished as the plated
surface wilt be damaged.

(2) Inspect the guide bolts for wear or damage.
Renew as necessary.

To Assemble
(1) Dip a new piston seal in clean hydraulic
brake fluid. Insert the seal into the groove in the
caliper bore ensuring that the seal is correctly seated
and not twisted.
(2) Install a new dust cover to the piston prior to
installing the piston to the caliper bore. (3) Coat the piston and caliper bore with clean
hydraulic brake fluid and insert the piston squarely
into the caliper bore.
(4) Locate the dust seal in the groove of the
caliper body and install the retaining clip.
(5) Lubricate the guide bolts using a suitable
grease. Install the caliper body to the anchor plate and
install and tighten the guide bolts to the
specified
torque. (6) Replenish the master cylinder reservoir with
the recommended fluid and bleed the brakes as
described under the Hydr aulic System heading.
(7) Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. (8) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
BRAKE DISC

To Check Runout
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the relevant front wheel. (2) Install the wheel nuts with the flat side of
the
wheel nut towards the disc. Lightly tighten the nuts to
secure the disc against the hub.

Rotate the hub and check for disc runout.
(3) Mount a dial gauge stand to a suspension
component and position the dial gauge plunger
against the wheel hub. Check that the end float is less
than 0.05 mm. Excessive e nd float will necessitate
renewal of the hub bearing. (4) Position the dial gauge plunger against the
centre of the brake disc. Ro tate the hub and measure
the runout. Maximum allowable runout is 0.07 mm. (5) If the runout exceeds Specifications, machine
or renew the brake disc. (6) Install the fron t wheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
To Remove and Install

(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the relevant wheel. (2) Remove the bolts retaining the caliper an-

Brakes 183

To Dismantle
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it on
chassis stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
(2) Remove the brake hose retaining bolt from
the caliper body and plug the hose to prevent the loss
of fluid and the ingress of dirt. (3) Remove the handbrake cable bracket retain-
ing bolt and disconnect the handbrake cable from the
cam lever.
(4) Remove the guide bolts and slide the caliper
body off the pads. (5) Using a pair of long nose pliers with the nose
located in the recesses of the piston, rotate the piston
anticlockwise to remove it from the caliper body.
(6) Remove the dust cover retaining clip and dust
cover. Discard the dust cover. (7) Using a thin blunt probe, preferably made
from wood or plastic, remove and discard the piston
seal from the groove in the caliper bore. (8) Using internal snap ring pliers, remove the
snap ring from the caliper bore. (9) Withdraw the spring cover, spring, key plate,
pushrod and link from the caliper bore. Do not mix
these components from the left and right hand sides as
they differ. (10) Remove and discard the O ring from the
pushrod. (11) Remove the spring, nut and washer from the
cam lever. Remove the cam lever and cam from the
caliper body. (12) Remove the cam seal from the caliper using a
screwdriver.
(13) Clean all the caliper components in methy-
lated spirits and arrange the components in order on a
clean dry surface to aid assembly.
To Inspect

(1) Inspect the caliper bore and piston for pit-
ting, wear or damage. Renew the caliper assembly or
piston if damage is evident.

NOTE: Slight rust spots in the caliper bore
may be removed with fine emery paper. The
piston must not be polished as the plated
surface will be damaged.

(2) Inspect the guide bolts for wear or damage
and renew as necessary.
(3) Inspect the threads of the pushrod for wear or
damage and renew as necessary. (4) Inspect the nut inside the piston for wear,
damage and security. Renew the piston if any damage
is evident. (5) Inspect the cam for wear, damage or pitting,
renew as necessary. (6) Inspect the cam bearing in the caliper body
for wear, damage or pitting and renew the seal and
bearing as necessary. (7) Inspect the guide bolt rubbers for deteriora-
tion, wear or damage. Renew as required. To Assemble

(1)
Lubricate the cam bearing with multipurpose
grease and install the seal. (2) Install the cam and cam lever to the
caliper
body. Install the cam lever spring, washer and nut, and
tighten the nut to the specified torque. (3) Install a new O ring to the pushrod and
install
the link, pushrod, key plate, spring and spring cover to
the caliper body. The key plate must engage the caliper
body. Secure the assembly with the snap ring. (4) Dip a new piston seal in clean hydraulic brake
fluid. Insert the seal into the groove in the caliper bore
ensuring that the seal is correctly seated and not
twisted. (5) Install a new dust cover to the piston prior
to
installing the piston to the caliper bore.
(6) Coat the piston and caliper bore with clean
hydraulic brake fluid and using long nose pliers rotate
the piston clockwise into the caliper bore. (7) Locate the dust seal in the groove of the
caliper body and install the retaining clip.
(8) Lubricate the guide bolts using a suitable
grease. Install the caliper body and tighten the guide
bolts to the specified torque. (9) Replenish the master cylinder reservoir with
the recommended fluid and bleed the brakes as
described under the Hydraulic System heading. (10) Install the rear wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground. (11) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
BRAKE DISC

To Check Runout
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on
chassis stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
(2) Mount a dial gauge stand to a suspension
component and position the dial gauge plunger
against the wheel hub. Check that the end float is less

Using a dial gauge to measure the rear disc runout.