1986 FORD SIERRA air suspension

Front suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by MacPherson struts with coil springs and integral
telescopic shock absorbers. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models
Rear suspension
Type:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by semi-trailing arms and coil springs with telescopic
shock absorbers mounted behind coil springs on Saloon and
Hatchback models but concentric with coil springs on Estate models.
Self-levelling rear shock absorbers on certain Estate models. Anti-roll
bar fitted to certain models
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Live beam axle with leaf springs and telescopic shock absorbers
Steering
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack-and-pinion steering gear linked to collapsible steering column by
flexible coupling and universal joint. Power steering available on
certain models
Front wheel alignment*
Production toe-setting:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm (0.08 in) ± 1.0 mm (0.04 in) toe-in
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm (0.08 in) ± 2.0 mm (0.08 in) toe-in
Service tolerance before adjustment is required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 mm (0.02 in) toe-out to 4.5 mm (0.18 in) toe-in
*Toe-setting figures are quoted for vehicle at kerb weight with 3.0 litres (0.66 gallons) of fuel in tank
Chapter 11
Suspension and steering
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm compliance bushes - renewal . . . . . .8
Front hub carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Front suspension crossmember - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . .3
Front suspension lower arm inner pivot bush - renewal . . . . . . . . . . .9
Front suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .4
Front wheel - alignment checking and adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Front wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Manual steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Power steering fluid circuit - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Power steering fluid hoses - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Power steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Rear anti-roll bar (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Rear coil spring (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rear shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Rear suspension and axle assembly (P100 models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Rear suspension and final drive unit assembly (Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Rear suspension/final drive unit rear mounting (Saloon Hatchback and
Estate models) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Rear suspension front mounting (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Rear suspension leaf spring (P100 models) - removal and refitting . .19
Rear suspension leaf spring bush (P100 models) - renewal . . . . . . .21
Rear suspension leaf spring shackle (P100 models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Rear suspension lower arm (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Rear wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Steering column adjuster - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . .25
Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Steering gear rubber gaiter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Steering intermediate shaft and flexible coupling - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Steering wheel - centralising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Tie-rod end - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
11•1
Specifications Contents
11
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty

1Remove the hub carrier.
2Reverse the roadwheel nuts and screw
them fully onto the studs to protect the
threads, then mount the hub carrier assembly
in a vice as shown (see illustration).
3Prise the dust cap from the rear of the hub
carrier, and unscrew the hub nut with a
suitable socket. Note that on all models
manufactured before late December 1982,
both left and right-hand nuts have a
right-hand thread, but as from this date,
left-hand thread assemblies were
progressively fitted to the right-hand hub
carrier. The modified right-hand hub can be
identified by the letter “R” stamped on its
outer face, or by the colour of the hub nut
nylon insert, blue indicates a normal
right-hand thread, and yellow indicates a
left-hand thread.
4Remove the splined washer, and tap the
hub carrier from the drive flange. Recover the
bearing inner race and rollers from the inner
end of the hub carrier (see illustration).
5Prise the oil seal from the outer end of the
hub carrier and remove the remaining bearing
inner race and rollers.
6Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.
7Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
8Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
9Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub camber.
10Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note that onearly models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this early type of seal should be replaced
with the later type which has a metal casing.
The oil seal should be renewed regardless of
type, and a new seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel bearings.
11With the drive flange mounted in a vice, as
during dismantling, tap the hub carrier onto
the drive flange.
12Fit the inner bearing assembly, tapping it
into place with a metal tube of suitable
diameter if necessary, and fit the splined
washer. Note that the bearings are self-setting
on assembly, and no subsequent adjustment
is required.
13Refit the hub nut and tighten it to the
specified torque.
14Tap the dust cap into position in the hub
carrier.
15Remove the assembly from the vice,
remove the roadwheel nuts, and refit the hub
carrier.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.2Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts securing each of
the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle
underbody (see illustrations).
3Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts and recover the dished washers
and plastic covers, where applicable (see
illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing one of the lower arms to
the crossmember, and pull the end of the
lower arm from the crossmember.
6Pull the anti-roll bar from the bush in the
“free” lower arm then slide the anti-roll bar
from the remaining fixed lower arm. Recover
the remaining dished washers and plastic
covers (where applicable) from the ends of the
anti-roll bar.
7If necessary, the anti-roll bar compliance
bushes can be renewed as described in
Section 8, and the anti-roll bar U-clamp
bushes can be renewed by sliding them off
the ends of the bar. Note that although the
U-clamp bushes are of a split design, they
should not be levered open to aid fitting, and
the new bushes must be slid on from the ends
of the anti-roll bar. The bushes should always
be renewed in pairs.
7Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
6Front wheel bearings - renewal
11•6Suspension and steering
6.2 Front hub carrier mounted in vice to
unscrew hub nut
7.2b . . . unscrew the bolts and remove the
anti-roll bar U-clamps7.2a Bend back the locktabs (arrowed) . . .
6.4 Front hub components
A Dust cap
B Hub nutC Splined washer
D Taper roller bearingE Bearing outer race
F Hub carrierG Oil seal
H Drive flange

nuts, and it is important to note that where
this type of nut is fitted, the left-hand nut has
a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
2Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the side
concerned, chock the front wheels, and jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Remove the rear roadwheel.
3Remove the brake drum retaining spire
washer(s) from the wheel stud(s) and remove
the brake drum. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before removing the brake drum,
otherwise the drum will be held in place by the
clamping action of the brake shoes.
4Remove the two nylon fasteners, and
remove the plastic shield from the rear of the
brake backplate (see illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut.
6Using a suitable puller, pull the drive flange
from the end of the driveshaft (see
illustration).
7Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the hub carrier and brake backplate
to the lower arm (see illustration). Remove
the hub carrier, whilst supporting the
driveshaft. Support the driveshaft by placing
axle stands underneath it, or by securing with
string to the underbody. Note that the
driveshaft joints should not be allowed to
deflect through an angle exceeding 13º.
8Refit the brake backplate with the four
securing bolts to avoid straining the brake
pipe.
9With the hub carrier removed, the bearings
can be renewed as follows (see illustration).
10Prise the inner and outer oil seals from the
hub carrier using a suitable screwdriver, and
withdraw the taper roller bearings.
11Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.12Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
13Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
14Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub carrier.
15Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note than on
early models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this type of seal should be replaced with
the later type which has a metal casing. The
oil seal should be renewed regardless of type,
and a new oil seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel
bearings.
16Repeat the procedure shown in
paragraphs 14 and 15 for the outer bearing
and oil seal.17Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then remove
the securing bolts from the brake backplate,
and using a soft-faced mallet, drive the drive
flange/hub carrier assembly onto the end of
the driveshaft.
18Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
19Refit the hub carrier/brake
backplate-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
20Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel. If a staked type nut is
used, lock the nut by staking its outer ring into
the groove in the driveshaft.
With rear disc brakes
Note: See note.at the beginning of this Section
21Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. Note that the left-hand
nut has a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
Suspension and steering 11•11
11
14.6 Pull the drive flange from the end of
the driveshaft
14.9 Rear hub carrier components - Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models
A Outer oil seal
B Outer bearingC Hub carrier
D Inner bearingE Inner oil seal14.7 Rear hub carrier/brake backplate-to-lower arm securing
bolts
14.4 Remove the nylon fasteners (arrowed)
to free the plastic shield from the brake
backplate

Refitting
3When refitting the fluid hoses, use new
O-rings, and take care not to overtighten the
unions. Note that with the unions fully
tightened it is still possible to rotate and move
the hoses.
4On completion of refitting, bleed the power
steering fluid circuit (Section 34).
Note: New power steering fluid hose O-rings
will be required when refitting.
All engines except 1.8 litre (R6A)
CVH and 2.0 litre DOHC
1Place a suitable container under the power
steering pump, unscrew the fluid hose unions,
and drain the fluid. Ensure that fluid is not
allowed to spill onto the alternator.
2Remove the drivebelts and unbolt the
power steering pump pulley if necessary to
ease removal.
3Unbolt the rear support bar from the pump
and the engine block (see illustration).
4Unbolt the pump from its mounting bracket,
and withdraw the pump from the engine.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the
following points.
6Tension the drivebelts correctly.
7When refitting the fluid hoses, use new
O-rings, and take care not to overtighten the
unions. 8On completion of refitting, bleed the power
steering fluid circuit.
1.8 litre (R6A) CVH engine
9The removal and refitting procedures are
basically the same as described below for the
2.0 litre DOHC engine, except that the pump
is mounted on a bracket above the alternator
on the front left-hand side of the engine.
2.0 litre DOHC engine
10The pump is mounted on a bracket on the
front right-hand side of the cylinder block.
11Place a suitable container under the
pump, unscrew the fluid pipe unions, and
drain the fluid.
12Remove the drivebelt which also drives
the coolant pump and alternator.
13Prevent the pulley from rotating using a
strap wrench (which can be improvised using
an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the three pulley
securing bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
14Unscrew the three pump securing bolts
from the front of the pump bracket, and the
single bolt from the rear of the bracket, and
withdraw the pump (see illustrations).
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Reconnect the fluid unions using new O-
rings.
17On completion, bleed the power steering
fluid circuit.
Note: New fluid hose O-rings will be required
when refitting.
Removal
1Clean around the hose unions on the
steering gear. Place a suitable container
beneath the steering gear, then remove the
single bolt securing the hoses to the pinion
housing, unscrew the hose unions and drain
the power steering fluid.
2Clean around the hose unions on the pump.
Place a suitable container beneath the pump,
unscrew the hose unions, and drain any
remaining fluid. Ensure that no fluid is allowed
to spill onto the alternator.3If the hoses are to be left disconnected for a
long period of time, plug the ends of the
hoses and the apertures in the steering gear
and pump, or cover them with masking tape
to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting
4Refit in reverse order using new O-rings.
5On completion top-up the fluid and bleed
the system.
1Unscrew the filler cap from the power
steering pump reservoir and top-up the fluid
level to the maximum mark using the specified
fluid.
2Disconnect the low tension negative lead
from the ignition coil and crank the engine
several times for two second periods while
slowly turning the steering wheel from
lock-to-lock. Top-up the fluid level if
necessary and continue cranking the engine
until the fluid is free of air bubbles.
3Reconnect the coil lead and start the
engine. Check the system for leaks.
4Switch off the engine and refit the filler cap.
5Drive the vehicle for a few miles to warm up
the fluid and expel any remaining air, then
stop the engine and make a final fluid level
check.
1Remove the tie-rod end.
2Unscrew and remove the tie-rod end
locknut from the tie-rod.
3Remove the clips and slide the gaiter from
the tie-rod and steering gear.
4Slide the new gaiter over the tie-rod and
onto the steering gear. Where applicable,
make sure that the gaiter seats in the cut-outs
in the tie-rod and steering gear.
5Secure the gaiter with new clips.
6Refit the tie-rod end locknut to the tie-rod.
7Refit the tie-rod end.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands.
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Make alignment marks on the tie-rod and
tie-rod end, then loosen the locknut by a
quarter of a turn.
33Tie-rod end - removal and
refitting
32Steering gear rubber gaiter -
renewal
31Power steering fluid circuit
- bleeding
30Power steering fluid hoses
- removal and refitting
29Power steering pump
- removal and refitting
11•18Suspension and steering
29.3 Power steering pump rear support bar
bolts (arrowed)
29.14b Power steering pump rear securing
bolt29.14a Unbolt the power steering pump
pulley for access to the front pump
securing bolts (arrowed)