1986 FORD SIERRA steering

3Wipe clean around the filler/level plug.
Unscrew the plug and remove it(see
illustration).
4Using a suitably marked piece of bent wire
as a dipstick, check that the oil level is as
shown in the table at the top of this page,
according to gearbox type.
5Top-up the level if necessary, using clean
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill, as this
can lead to leakage and difficult gear
changing. Allow excess oil to drip out of the
filler/level hole if necessary. Refit and tighten
the filler/level plug on completion.
6The frequent need for topping-up can only
be due to leaks, which should be rectified.
The most likely sources of leaks are the rear
extension housing and input shaft oil seals.
7No periodic oil changing is specified, and
no drain plug is fitted.
1Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light
machine oil.
2Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed sections of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Where applicable, check the
operation of the central locking system.
4Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine.
2Make sure that the ignition is switched off
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they
carry their cylinder numbers. Note that the
position of No 1 cylinder HT lead in the
distributor cap is marked with either a pip, or
a number “1 “.3Where necessary, for improved access
remove the air cleaner and/or the inlet hose.
4Disconnect the leads from the plugs by
pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
5On 2.0 litre DOHC carburettor models, the
location of the spark plugs and the close
proximity of the carburettor makes spark plug
access difficult, particularly when removing
the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3. It is
suggested that a 3/8 inch ratchet drive spark
plug socket with rubber insert and long
extension bar is used, possibly in conjunction
with a universal joint adapter. It is also
advisable to disconnect No 3 cylinder HT lead
from the distributor first, to allow some slack
for disconnection at the spark plug.
6Clean the area around each spark plug
using a small brush, then using a plug
spanner (preferably with a rubber insert),
unscrew and remove the plugs(see
illustration).Cover the spark plug holes with
a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
foreign matter.
7Before fitting new spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves are tight. As
the plugs incorporate taper seats, make sure
that the threads and seats are clean.8On DOHC models before refitting the spark
plugs, coat their threads with suitable anti-
seize compound, taking care not to
contaminate the electrodes.
9Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
exceed the torque figure.
10Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, and where applicable refit the air
cleaner and/or inlet hose.
1Refer to the Specifications at the beginning
of this Chapter and check the tension of each
drivebelt at the point stated. Check the full
length of each drivebelt for cracks and
deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the
engine in order to check that portion of the
drivebelt in contact with the pulleys. Renew or
tension each belt as necessary as follows,
according to model type:
SOHC models
2Note that two drivebelts are fitted to models
equipped with power steering and both
should be renewed if either one is
unserviceable. Where fitted, the air
conditioning compressor is driven by a
separate belt.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Where applicable, remove the air
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
5Loosen the alternator mounting and
adjustment nuts and bolts, and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.
6Slip the drivebelt(s) from the alternator,
water pump, crankshaft and (where
applicable) the power steering pump pulleys.
7Fit the new drivebelt(s) over the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the specified belt tension
is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
prevent damage and straining the brackets. It
is helpful to partially tighten the adjustment
link bolt before tensioning the drivebelt(s).
21Auxiliary drivebelt check
20Spark plug renewal
19Hinge and lock check and
lubrication
1•14Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
18.3 Gearbox filler/level plug location
(arrowed) - N type gearbox
20.6 Removing a spark plug - CVH engine
Note: The vehicle build code appears as the twelfth and thirteenth characters of the VIN number
on the plate in the engine compartment.
Gearbox type
All four-speed gearboxes
All five-speed gearboxes up to April 1984 (build
code E6) except those subsequently fitted with
a modified extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1984 (build
code EC) to end of April 1985 (build code FP)
and all vehicles built up to April 1984 (build
code E6) subsequently fitted with a modified
gearbox extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1985Oil level
0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in) below lower edge of
filler/level hole
Level with bottom edge of filler/level hole
20.0 to 25.0 mm (0.79 to 0.99 in) below lower
edge of filler/level hole
0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in)below lower edge of
filler/level hole
Number each HT lead using
sticky tape or paint before
removal so as to avoid
confusion when refitting.

8Tighten the alternator mounting and
adjustment nuts and bolts in the order shown
(see illustration).
9Where applicable, refit and tension the air
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
10Reconnect the battery negative lead.
11Drivebelt tension should be rechecked
and if necessary adjusted after the engine has
been run for a minimum of ten minutes.
DOHC models
12Three different types of drivebelt
arrangement are used, depending on model
(see illustrations).On models without powersteering, the drivebelt is tensioned by moving
the alternator. On models with power steering,
the power steering pump is also driven by the
coolant pump/alternator drivebelt and an
automatic belt tensioner is fitted (see
illustration).On models with air conditioning,
the drivebelt drives the alternator, coolant
pump, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, and an automatic
belt tensioner is fitted.
13On models without power steering, loosen
the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts,
and pivot the alternator towards the cylinder
block. Slip the drivebelt from the pulleys.
14On models with power steering, the
automatic tensioner can be released using a
17 mm socket and a wrench on the boss in
the centre of the pulley. Lever the tensioner
assembly clockwise, slide the belt from the
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
15To fit a new belt on models without
power steering, slide the belt over the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the correct belt tension is
achieved. Lever the alternator using a plastic
or wooden lever at the pulley end to prevent
damage. It is helpful to partially tighten the
adjustment link bolt before tensioning the
drivebelt. When the correct tension is
achieved, tighten all the bolts.
16To fit a new belt on models with power
steering, lever the tensioner clockwise as
during removal, then slide the belt over the
pulleys, and slowly release the tensioner.
1The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires nomaintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2To clean the battery terminals disconnect
them, after having first removed the cover
(later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire
brush or abrasive paper to clean the
terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated
with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied
with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution
get inside the battery.
3Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
4Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
Inspect the battery tray for corrosion, and
make good as necessary.
SOHC engines
1The valve clearances must be checked with
the engine cold. On carburettor models
remove the air cleaner.
2Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and release them from the clips on the
camshaft cover.
3On fuel injection models, unbolt and
remove the bracing strut securing the inlet
manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder
head.
4Where applicable, unclip any hoses and
wires from the camshaft cover, then unscrew
the securing bolts and remove the camshaft
cover and gaskets. Take care not to lose the
spacer plates which fit under the bolt heads,
where applicable.
23Engine valve clearance
check
22Battery terminal check
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15
1
21.12b Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with
power steering
1 Alternator
2 Automatic belt
tension
3 Coolant pump4 Crankshaft pulley
5 Power steering
pump21.12d Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt
tensioner indicator position -
2.0 litre DOHC engine
Inset shows tensioner at maximum
adjustment
1 Alternator
2 Automatic belt
tensioner
3 Coolant pump4 Air conditioning
compressor
5 Crankshaft pulley
6 Power steering
pump
21.12c Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with
power steering and air conditioning
21.12a Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine
without power steering
1 Alternator
2 Coolant pump3 Crankshaft
pulley
21.8 Alternator mounting tightening
sequence - SOHC engines
Caution: Before carrying out
any work on the vehicle battery,
read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the
beginning of this manual.
It will be easier to turn the
engine by hand if the spark
plugs are removed but take
care not to allow dirt to enter
the spark plug holes.

system immediately if the charge is low and
do not use it again until it has been recharged.
4Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year -
so it is as well to regard periodic recharging
as a maintenance operation.
1Check the final drive oil level as follows.
2Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands. The
vehicle must be level.
3Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
plug (see illustrations) and unscrew the
plug. Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick,
check that the oil is no more than 10 mm (0.4
in) below the plug hole.
4If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
to leaks, which should be rectified.
5When the level is correct, refit the filler/level
plug and tighten it to the specified torque
loading.
6There is no requirement for periodic oil
changing, and no drain plug is provided.
Lubricate the transmission selector and
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol
lubricant.
1Check the shock absorbers by bouncing
the vehicle up and down at each corner in
turn. When released, it should come to rest
within one complete oscillation. Continued
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises
from the shock absorber suggests that
renewal is required .
2Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all
steering and suspension components for
wear and damage. Pay particular attention to
dust covers and gaiters, which if renewed
promptly when damaged can save further
damage to the component protected.
3At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
levering up the arms(see illustration).
Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5
mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints can
be checked in a similar manner, or by
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
be renewed .4Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by
spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any
roughness or excessive noise indicates worn
bearings, which must be renewed, as no
adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any
wear will be evident unless the vehicle has
covered a very high mileage. It should be
noted that it is normal for the bearings to
exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as
wheel rock at the wheel rim.
1Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
2Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must
be renewed without delay to avoid damage
occurring to the joint itself
3Check the tightness of the final drive
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange screws.
1Except on vehicles with a wax-based
underbody protective coating, have the whole
of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
cleaned, engine compartment included, so
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. 2Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages and is necessary for the removal of
the accumulation of oily grime which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
3After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
4Using a strong light, work around the
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer
to Chapter 12 for details of repair.
Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks.
Renew any defective item without delay.
On carburettor models which incorporate a
stepper motor (ie. Weber 2V from 1985), good
electrical contact between the motor plunger
and the adjusting screw is essential to
maintain a regular idle speed.
Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
available from electronic component shops.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.
34Road test
33Idle speed linkage clean
32Brake pipe and hose check
31Underbody inspection
30Driveshaft check
29Steering and suspension
security check
28Automatic transmission
selector linkage lubrication
27Final drive oil level check
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
1
29.3 Levering up lower arm to check
balljoint for wear
27.3b Rear axle filler plug location -
P100 models27.3a Final drive unit filler plug location
(arrowed) -
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models

Steering and suspension
3Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6Check the performance of the engine,
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
8Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.9Where applicable, check that the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
10Check that all gears can be engaged
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever
action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
11Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
12Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
13Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of thelever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
14Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed.
After about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
feel considerably firmer.
1Inspect the crankcase ventilation system
for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can
cause a build-up of crankcase pressure,
which in turn can cause oil leaks (see
illustration).
2On carburettor model SOHC engines, clean
the oil filler cap with paraffin and check that
the vent valve is not blocked by pulling it from
the oil separator and loosening the hose clip
(Section 42).
3On CVH engines, check that the oil
separator and mushroom valve are not
blocked, and clean if necessary (see
illustration).
35Crankcase ventilation system
check
SOHC and DOHC carburettor
models
1A vacuum pump will be required to test the
control components.2To check the operation of the air
temperature control, the engine must be cold.
First observe the position of the flap valve
which should be fully closed prior to starting
the engine(see illustration).The position of
the flap can be observed by disconnecting the
cold air inlet hose from the air cleaner spout
and looking into the spout.
3Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
that the flap is now fully open to admit hot air
from the exhaust manifold shroud. If the flap
does not fully open, stop the engine and
check the vacuum diaphragm unit and heat
sensor as follows (see illustrations).4Working under the base of the air cleaner
body, disconnect the diaphragm unit-to-heat
sensor vacuum pipe at the sensor end, and
connect a vacuum pump to the diaphragm unit.
Apply a vacuum of 100.0 mm (4.0 in) of mercury.
5If the flap opens, then the heat sensor is
faulty and should be renewed. If the flap
remains closed, then the diaphragm unit is
faulty, and a new air cleaner body will have to
be obtained, as the diaphragm unit is not
available separately.
6On completion of the checks, disconnect
the vacuum pump, and reconnect the vacuum
pipe and cold air inlet hose.
36Air cleaner inlet air
temperature control check
1•18Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
35.1 Loosening the crankcase ventilation
hose clip - CVH models
36.3b Air cleaner heat sensor viewed from
inside air cleaner - OHC models36.3a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit -
OHC models
36.2 Air cleaner flap valve operation -
OHC models
A Flap fully open to admit hot air
B Flap fully closed to admit cold air
35.3 Oil separator (1) and mushroom valve
(2) locations in air cleaner - CVH models
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years