1986 FORD SIERRA engine

3Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
Position the draining container under the drain
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
threads, move it away sharply so the stream
of oil issuing from the sump runs into the
container, not up your sleeve! Recover the
sealing washer from the drain plug.
4Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6Move the container into position under the
oil filter.
7Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by
hand the rest of the way (see illustration).
Empty the oil from the old filter into the
container, and discard the filter.
8Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do notuse any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.10Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the
ground (if applicable).
11Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct
grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and
fluids”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to
reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified
quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for
the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil
a small quantity at a time until the level is up to
the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring
the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.
12Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
13Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures”in
the Reference section of this manual.
1Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”).
2For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels by inserting a mirror between each
caliper and roadwheel(see illustration).If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified thickness, all four pads (on both
front wheels) must be renewed.
3It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear disc pads. The pads
can be viewed through the top of the caliper
after removing the blanking spring clip(see
illustration).If any one pad is worn down to
the minimum specified, all four pads (on both
rear wheels) must be renewed.4For a comprehensive check, the brake disc
pads should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5On rear drum brake models, the brake shoe
friction material can be inspected for wear
without removing the roadwheels. Working
beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the
brake backplate, and using an inspection
lamp or torch, check that the friction material
thickness is not less than the minimum given
in the Specifications(see illustration).If any
one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as
an axle set (4 shoes).
6At the same interval, check the function of the
brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels,
release the handbrake and switch on the
ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap.
7On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected
but what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in
this manual.
2Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that
all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and
in good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
10Fluid leak check
9Front and rear brake pad/shoe
check
1•10Every 6000 miles or 6 months
8.7 Unscrewing the oil filter
9.3 Disc pads viewed through caliper
inspection hole (roadwheel removed)9.5 Brake shoe inspection hole plug
(arrowed)9.2 Using a mirror to inspect the disc pad
friction material for wear
A Brake disc B Brake disc pads

4Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel, power steering and brake hoses. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the
hose clips that secure the hoses to the system
components. Hose clips can pinch and
puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type
hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to
replace them with screw-type clips.
5With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
other damage. The connection between the
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
6Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9Where applicable, check the condition of
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
10Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses.
1Periodically check the belts for fraying or
other damage. If evident, renew the belt.
2If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a
damp cloth using a little detergent only.
3Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of
washers, bushes and anchor plates is
retained.
With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands, check the exhaust
system for signs of leaks, corrosion or
damage and check the rubber mountings for
condition and security. Where damage or
corrosion are evident, renew the system
complete or in sections, as applicable, using
the information given in Chapter 4.With the wheels on the ground, slacken each
wheel nut by a quarter turn, then retighten it
immediately to the specified torque.
Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
sludge build-up using paraffin.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-
up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
Ford VV carburettor
1Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted,
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
securely connected and free from restrictions,
then run the engine until it is at normal
operating temperature.
2Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer
and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance
with the manufacturer’s instructions.
3Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
30 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads
are switched off (headlamps, heater blower
etc), then allow the engine to idle and check
the idle speed and CO content. Note that the
CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally
stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.4If necessary, adjust the idle speed screw to
give the specified idle speed (see
illustration).
5Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, repeat paragraphs 3 and 4, ignoring
the reference to starting the engine.
Weber 2V carburettor
Models without stepper motor
6Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor but note the following:
7It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner
securing screws to allow easier access to the
carburettor adjustment screws but ensure
that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely
connected. For adjustment screw location
(see illustrations).
Models with stepper motor (ESC II
system)
8The idle speed is controlled by the ESC II
module via the stepper motor. The only idle
speed adjustment possible is provided by the
“idle speed adjustment” wire, which can be
earthed to raise the idle speed by 75 rpm. No
other method of idle speed adjustment should
be attempted. If the idle speed is incorrect,
the problem should be referred to a Ford
dealer, as the problem probably lies in the
ESC II module for which special diagnostic
equipment is required.
15Engine idle speed check
14Oil filler cap check
13Roadwheel security check
12Exhaust system check
11Seat belt check
Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11
1
15.7b Weber 2V carburettor adjustment
screw locations - 1.6 litre models
A Idle mixture screwB Idle speed screw
15.7a Weber 2V carburettor adjustment
screw locations - 2.0 litre models up to 1985
A Idle speed screwB Idle mixture screw
15.4 Ford VV carburettor adjustment screw
locations
A Idle speed screwB Idle mixture screw
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1,
Chapter 4, Part A or B (as
applicable), before proceeding.
Before carrying out any carburettor
adjustments, ensure that the ignition
timing and spark plug gaps are set as
specified. To carry out the adjustments an
accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser (CO meter) will be required.

Pierburg 2V carburettor
9Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor. For adjustment screw location
(see illustration).
Weber 2V TLD carburettor
10Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor, noting the following points:
11Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the
camshaft cover breather hose are securely
connected to the air cleaner and are free from
restrictions.
12When warming-up the engine, run the
engine until the cooling fan cuts in.
13For adjustment screw location (see
illustration).
Fuel injection
2.0 litre SOHC models
14Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV
module and the only means of adjustment
provided is by the yellow “idle speed
adjustment” wire (Chapter 5, Section 17) which
allows the idle speed to be raised by 75 rpm.
2.0 litre DOHC models
15Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV
module, and manual adjustment is not
possible.
16The “base” idle speed can be adjusted,
but only by a Ford dealer, using special
equipment.
Ford VV carburettor
1Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted
and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are
securely connected and free from restrictions,
then run the engine until it is at normal
operating temperature.
2Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer
and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance
with the manufacturer’s instructions.
3Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30
seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads are
switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc),
then allow the engine to idle and check the idle
speed and CO content. Note that the CO
reading will initially rise, then fall and finally
stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.
4If the reading noted in paragraph 3 is not as
specified, proceed as follows.
5Using a thin screwdriver, remove the
tamperproof seal from the mixture screw.6Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds,
then allow the engine to idle, and using a
small screwdriver or a 4.0 mm Allen key, as
applicable, adjust the mixture screw to give
the specified CO content.
7Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, then repeat paragraph 6.
8If necessary adjust the idle speed, then
recheck the CO content.
9On completion of the adjustments, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer and
exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof
seal to the mixture screw.
Weber 2V carburettor
Models without stepper motor
10Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor but note the following:
11To remove the mixture screw tamperproof
seal, it will be necessary to drill the seal in
order to prise it from the mixture screw
housing. Alternatively a self-tapping screw
can be used to draw out the seal. If the
tamperproof seal is to be renewed, ensure
that a blue-coloured replacement seal is
fitted.
12It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner
securing screws to allow easier access to the
carburettor adjustment screws, but ensure
that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely
connected.
Models with stepper motor (ESC II
system)
13If necessary, the mixture can be adjusted
as described for the Ford VV carburettor with
reference to paragraphs 11 and 12 of this
Section. Do not attempt to adjust the idle
speed on completion of mixture adjustment.
For adjustment screw location (see
illustration).
Pierburg 2V carburettor
14Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor.
Weber 2V TLD carburettor
15Proceed as described for the Ford VV
carburettor, noting the following points:
16Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the
camshaft cover breather hose are securely
connected to the air cleaner and are free from
restrictions.
17When warming-up the engine, run the
engine until the cooling fan cuts in.
18If adjustment of the mixture (CO content)
is required, the air cleaner must be removed
for access to the adjustment screw, as
follows.
19Remove the air cleaner, and prise the
tamperproof seal from the mixture screw.
20Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that
the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover
breather hose are securely connected and
free from restrictions (there is no need to
secure the air cleaner in position).
21On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal
to the mixture screw (the service replacement
plug is coloured blue), and refit the air cleaner
assembly.
Fuel injection
2.0 litre SOHC models
22The idle mixture can be checked and if
necessary adjusted as follows:
23Run the engine until it is at normal
operating temperature.
24Stop the engine and connect a
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions.
16Mixture adjustment check
1•12Every 6000 miles or 6 months
15.9 Pierburg 2V carburettor adjustment
screw locations
A Idle speed screwB Idle mixture screwA Idle mixture screwB Idle speed screw
16.13 Weber 2V carburettor idle mixture
adjustment screw location (arrowed) -
2.0 litre models from 1985
15.13 Weber 2V TLD carburettor
adjustment screw locations
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1,
Chapter 4, Part A or B (as
applicable), before proceeding.
Before carrying out any carburettor
adjustments, ensure that the ignition
timing and spark plug gaps are set as
specified. To carry out the adjustments an
accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser (CO meter) will be required.

25Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads
(headlamps, heater blower etc) are switched
off, then allow the engine to idle and check
the CO content. Note that the CO reading will
initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise.
26If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof cap from the base of the airflow
meter, and turn the mixture screw using a
suitable Allen key to give the specified CO
content (see illustration).
27Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm, for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content and carry out further
adjustment if necessary.
28On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer and
exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof
cap to the mixture screw.2.0 litre DOHC models
29On models with a catalytic converter, the
mixture is controlled by the EEC IV module.
No manual adjustment is possible.
30On models without a catalytic converter,
the idle mixture can be adjusted as follows:
31Run the engine until it is at normal
operating temperature.
32Stop the engine, and connect a
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in
accordance with the equipment
manufacturer’s instructions.
33Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads
(headlamps, heater blower, etc) are switched
off. Allow the engine to idle, and check the CO
content. Note that the reading will initially rise,
then fall and finally stabilise.
34If adjustment is necessary, remove the
cover from the mixture adjustment
potentiometer (located at the rear right-handside of the engine compartment, behind the
MAP sensor), and turn the screw to give the
specified CO content (see illustrations).
35If adjustment does not produce a change
in reading, the potentiometer may be at the
extreme of its adjustment range. To centralise
the potentiometer, turn the adjustment screw
20 turns clockwise followed by 10 turns anti-
clockwise, then repeat the adjustment proce-
dure.
36Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content, and carry out further
adjustments if necessary.
37On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine, and disconnect the tachometer and
the exhaust gas analyser. Refit the cover to
the adjustment screw.
1Fluid level should be checked with the
transmission at operating temperature (after a
run) and with the vehicle parked on level
ground.
2Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine
idling and the handbrake and footbrake applied,
move the gear selector through all positions
three times, finishing up in position “P”,
3Wait one minute. With the engine still idling,
withdraw the transmission dipstick (see
illustration).Wipe the dipstick with a clean
lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it
again. Read the fluid level at the end of the
dipstick: it should be between the two
notches.
4If topping-up is necessary, do so via the
dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of
the specified type (see illustration).Do not
overfill.
5Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close
the bonnet.6Note that if the fluid level was below the
minimum mark when checked or is in
constant need of topping-up, check around
the transmission for any signs of excessive
fluid leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified
without delay.
7If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or
black this denotes the sign of a worn brake
band or transmission clutches, in which case
have your Ford dealer check the transmission
at the earliest opportunity.1Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and
support it at front and rear. The vehicle must
be level for an accurate check.
2If the gearbox is hot after a run, allow it to
cool for a few minutes. This is necessary
because the oil can foam when hot and give a
false level reading.
18Manual gearbox oil level
check17Automatic transmission fluid
level check
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13
1
16.34b . . . to enable mixture adjustment -
DOHC models
17.4 Topping-up the transmission fluid17.3 Automatic transmission dipstick
location and markings
16.34a Remove the cover from the mixture
adjustment potentiometer . . .16.26 Adjusting the idle mixture -
SOHC models
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months

3Wipe clean around the filler/level plug.
Unscrew the plug and remove it(see
illustration).
4Using a suitably marked piece of bent wire
as a dipstick, check that the oil level is as
shown in the table at the top of this page,
according to gearbox type.
5Top-up the level if necessary, using clean
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill, as this
can lead to leakage and difficult gear
changing. Allow excess oil to drip out of the
filler/level hole if necessary. Refit and tighten
the filler/level plug on completion.
6The frequent need for topping-up can only
be due to leaks, which should be rectified.
The most likely sources of leaks are the rear
extension housing and input shaft oil seals.
7No periodic oil changing is specified, and
no drain plug is fitted.
1Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light
machine oil.
2Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed sections of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Where applicable, check the
operation of the central locking system.
4Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine.
2Make sure that the ignition is switched off
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they
carry their cylinder numbers. Note that the
position of No 1 cylinder HT lead in the
distributor cap is marked with either a pip, or
a number “1 “.3Where necessary, for improved access
remove the air cleaner and/or the inlet hose.
4Disconnect the leads from the plugs by
pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
5On 2.0 litre DOHC carburettor models, the
location of the spark plugs and the close
proximity of the carburettor makes spark plug
access difficult, particularly when removing
the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3. It is
suggested that a 3/8 inch ratchet drive spark
plug socket with rubber insert and long
extension bar is used, possibly in conjunction
with a universal joint adapter. It is also
advisable to disconnect No 3 cylinder HT lead
from the distributor first, to allow some slack
for disconnection at the spark plug.
6Clean the area around each spark plug
using a small brush, then using a plug
spanner (preferably with a rubber insert),
unscrew and remove the plugs(see
illustration).Cover the spark plug holes with
a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
foreign matter.
7Before fitting new spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves are tight. As
the plugs incorporate taper seats, make sure
that the threads and seats are clean.8On DOHC models before refitting the spark
plugs, coat their threads with suitable anti-
seize compound, taking care not to
contaminate the electrodes.
9Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
exceed the torque figure.
10Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, and where applicable refit the air
cleaner and/or inlet hose.
1Refer to the Specifications at the beginning
of this Chapter and check the tension of each
drivebelt at the point stated. Check the full
length of each drivebelt for cracks and
deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the
engine in order to check that portion of the
drivebelt in contact with the pulleys. Renew or
tension each belt as necessary as follows,
according to model type:
SOHC models
2Note that two drivebelts are fitted to models
equipped with power steering and both
should be renewed if either one is
unserviceable. Where fitted, the air
conditioning compressor is driven by a
separate belt.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Where applicable, remove the air
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
5Loosen the alternator mounting and
adjustment nuts and bolts, and pivot the
alternator towards the cylinder block.
6Slip the drivebelt(s) from the alternator,
water pump, crankshaft and (where
applicable) the power steering pump pulleys.
7Fit the new drivebelt(s) over the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the specified belt tension
is achieved. Lever the alternator using a
wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to
prevent damage and straining the brackets. It
is helpful to partially tighten the adjustment
link bolt before tensioning the drivebelt(s).
21Auxiliary drivebelt check
20Spark plug renewal
19Hinge and lock check and
lubrication
1•14Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
18.3 Gearbox filler/level plug location
(arrowed) - N type gearbox
20.6 Removing a spark plug - CVH engine
Note: The vehicle build code appears as the twelfth and thirteenth characters of the VIN number
on the plate in the engine compartment.
Gearbox type
All four-speed gearboxes
All five-speed gearboxes up to April 1984 (build
code E6) except those subsequently fitted with
a modified extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1984 (build
code EC) to end of April 1985 (build code FP)
and all vehicles built up to April 1984 (build
code E6) subsequently fitted with a modified
gearbox extension housing
All five-speed gearboxes from May 1985Oil level
0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in) below lower edge of
filler/level hole
Level with bottom edge of filler/level hole
20.0 to 25.0 mm (0.79 to 0.99 in) below lower
edge of filler/level hole
0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in)below lower edge of
filler/level hole
Number each HT lead using
sticky tape or paint before
removal so as to avoid
confusion when refitting.

8Tighten the alternator mounting and
adjustment nuts and bolts in the order shown
(see illustration).
9Where applicable, refit and tension the air
conditioning compressor drivebelt.
10Reconnect the battery negative lead.
11Drivebelt tension should be rechecked
and if necessary adjusted after the engine has
been run for a minimum of ten minutes.
DOHC models
12Three different types of drivebelt
arrangement are used, depending on model
(see illustrations).On models without powersteering, the drivebelt is tensioned by moving
the alternator. On models with power steering,
the power steering pump is also driven by the
coolant pump/alternator drivebelt and an
automatic belt tensioner is fitted (see
illustration).On models with air conditioning,
the drivebelt drives the alternator, coolant
pump, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, and an automatic
belt tensioner is fitted.
13On models without power steering, loosen
the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts,
and pivot the alternator towards the cylinder
block. Slip the drivebelt from the pulleys.
14On models with power steering, the
automatic tensioner can be released using a
17 mm socket and a wrench on the boss in
the centre of the pulley. Lever the tensioner
assembly clockwise, slide the belt from the
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
15To fit a new belt on models without
power steering, slide the belt over the pulleys,
then lever the alternator away from the
cylinder block until the correct belt tension is
achieved. Lever the alternator using a plastic
or wooden lever at the pulley end to prevent
damage. It is helpful to partially tighten the
adjustment link bolt before tensioning the
drivebelt. When the correct tension is
achieved, tighten all the bolts.
16To fit a new belt on models with power
steering, lever the tensioner clockwise as
during removal, then slide the belt over the
pulleys, and slowly release the tensioner.
1The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires nomaintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2To clean the battery terminals disconnect
them, after having first removed the cover
(later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire
brush or abrasive paper to clean the
terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated
with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied
with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution
get inside the battery.
3Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
4Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
Inspect the battery tray for corrosion, and
make good as necessary.
SOHC engines
1The valve clearances must be checked with
the engine cold. On carburettor models
remove the air cleaner.
2Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and release them from the clips on the
camshaft cover.
3On fuel injection models, unbolt and
remove the bracing strut securing the inlet
manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder
head.
4Where applicable, unclip any hoses and
wires from the camshaft cover, then unscrew
the securing bolts and remove the camshaft
cover and gaskets. Take care not to lose the
spacer plates which fit under the bolt heads,
where applicable.
23Engine valve clearance
check
22Battery terminal check
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15
1
21.12b Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with
power steering
1 Alternator
2 Automatic belt
tension
3 Coolant pump4 Crankshaft pulley
5 Power steering
pump21.12d Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt
tensioner indicator position -
2.0 litre DOHC engine
Inset shows tensioner at maximum
adjustment
1 Alternator
2 Automatic belt
tensioner
3 Coolant pump4 Air conditioning
compressor
5 Crankshaft pulley
6 Power steering
pump
21.12c Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with
power steering and air conditioning
21.12a Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt
arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine
without power steering
1 Alternator
2 Coolant pump3 Crankshaft
pulley
21.8 Alternator mounting tightening
sequence - SOHC engines
Caution: Before carrying out
any work on the vehicle battery,
read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the
beginning of this manual.
It will be easier to turn the
engine by hand if the spark
plugs are removed but take
care not to allow dirt to enter
the spark plug holes.

5Numbering from the front (camshaft
sprocket) end of the engine, the exhaust
valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7, and the inlet valves
are 2, 4, 6 and 8.
6Turn the engine clockwise using a suitable
socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the
exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder (valve No 1) is
fully closed; ie the cam lobe is pointing
vertically upwards (see illustration).
7Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness
(see Specifications) between the cam follower
and the heel of the No 1 valve cam lobe. The
feeler blade should be a firm sliding fit. If not,
loosen the locknut and adjust the ball-pin
position accordingly by turning the adjusternut, then tighten the locknut (see
illustrations). Allowance must be made for
tightening the locknut, as this tends to
decrease the valve clearance. Recheck the
adjustment after tightening the locknut.
8Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
6 and 7 for the remaining valves. With the
carburettor/inlet manifold fitted, some diffi-
culty may be experienced when adjusting the
exhaust valve clearances, and a suitable
open-ended spanner bent to 90º will be found
helpful.
9Check the condition of the camshaft cover
gasket, and renew if necessary. Fit the gasket
to the camshaft cover ensuring that the
locating tabs and dovetails are correctly
located (see illustration), then refit the
camshaft cover and tighten the securing bolts
in the order shown (see illustration), ensuring
that the spacer plates are in position under
the bolt heads, where applicable.
10On fuel injection models, refit the inlet
manifold bracing strut.
11Where applicable refit the spark plugs.
Reconnect the HT leads and locate them in
the clips on the camshaft cover.
12Where applicable, refit any wires and
hoses to the clips on the camshaft cover and
on carburettor models, refit the air cleaner.
DOHCand CVH engines
13These engines are fitted with hydraulic
cam followers therefore no adjustment is
necessary.
Chock the front roadwheels and jack the
rear wheels clear of the ground, supporting
the vehicle with axlestands.
Check that with the handbrake released,
the rear wheels are free to rotate and no brake
“bind” is evident. The handbrake lever travel
should be between two and four clicks of the
ratchet. If brake “bind” or excessive lever
travel is evident, check the handbrake cable
routing and check the self-adjuster
mechanism for wear or damage. Refer to
Chapter 10 for full service information. Gain access to the radiator matrix by
removing the surrounding body panels, fan
shrouds, etc. Clean dirt and debris from the
matrix using an air jet or water and a soft
brush. Be careful not to damage the fins or
cut your fingers.
Remove the protecting grille and clean any
leaves, insects etc. from the air conditioner
condenser coil and fins. Be very careful not to
damage the condenser fins: use a soft brush, or
a compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins.
1If applicable, remove the radiator grille
being careful not to damage the condenser
fins.
2Check the refrigerant charge as follows.
The engine should be cold and the ambient
temperature should be between 64°and 77°F
(18°and 25°C).
3Start the engine and allow it to idle.
Observe the refrigerant sight glass(see
illustration)and have an assistant switch on
the air conditioning to fan speed III. A few
bubbles should be seen in the sight glass as
the system starts up, but all bubbles should
disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent
bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the
refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the
26Air conditioner refridgerant
charge check
25Radiator matrix and air
conditioner condenser clean
24Handbrake check
1•16Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
23.6 Cam lobe correctly positioned for
checking valve clearance. Insert feeler
gauge as shown by arrow23.7b Adjusting a valve clearance
26.3 Air conditioning system refrigerant
sight glass (arrowed)
23.9b Camshaft cover bolts (A) and spacer
plates (B)
Tighten bolts in following stages:
Stage 1 Bolts 1 to 6
Stage 2 Bolts 7 and 8
Stage 3 Bolts 9 and 10
Stage 4 Bolts 7 and 8 (again)
23.9a Camshaft cover gasket dovetails
23.7a Using a feeler gauge to check a
valve clearance

system immediately if the charge is low and
do not use it again until it has been recharged.
4Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year -
so it is as well to regard periodic recharging
as a maintenance operation.
1Check the final drive oil level as follows.
2Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands. The
vehicle must be level.
3Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
plug (see illustrations) and unscrew the
plug. Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick,
check that the oil is no more than 10 mm (0.4
in) below the plug hole.
4If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
to leaks, which should be rectified.
5When the level is correct, refit the filler/level
plug and tighten it to the specified torque
loading.
6There is no requirement for periodic oil
changing, and no drain plug is provided.
Lubricate the transmission selector and
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol
lubricant.
1Check the shock absorbers by bouncing
the vehicle up and down at each corner in
turn. When released, it should come to rest
within one complete oscillation. Continued
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises
from the shock absorber suggests that
renewal is required .
2Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all
steering and suspension components for
wear and damage. Pay particular attention to
dust covers and gaiters, which if renewed
promptly when damaged can save further
damage to the component protected.
3At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
levering up the arms(see illustration).
Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5
mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints can
be checked in a similar manner, or by
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
be renewed .4Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by
spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any
roughness or excessive noise indicates worn
bearings, which must be renewed, as no
adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any
wear will be evident unless the vehicle has
covered a very high mileage. It should be
noted that it is normal for the bearings to
exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as
wheel rock at the wheel rim.
1Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
2Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must
be renewed without delay to avoid damage
occurring to the joint itself
3Check the tightness of the final drive
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange screws.
1Except on vehicles with a wax-based
underbody protective coating, have the whole
of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
cleaned, engine compartment included, so
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. 2Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages and is necessary for the removal of
the accumulation of oily grime which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
3After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
4Using a strong light, work around the
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer
to Chapter 12 for details of repair.
Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks.
Renew any defective item without delay.
On carburettor models which incorporate a
stepper motor (ie. Weber 2V from 1985), good
electrical contact between the motor plunger
and the adjusting screw is essential to
maintain a regular idle speed.
Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
available from electronic component shops.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.
34Road test
33Idle speed linkage clean
32Brake pipe and hose check
31Underbody inspection
30Driveshaft check
29Steering and suspension
security check
28Automatic transmission
selector linkage lubrication
27Final drive oil level check
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
1
29.3 Levering up lower arm to check
balljoint for wear
27.3b Rear axle filler plug location -
P100 models27.3a Final drive unit filler plug location
(arrowed) -
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models