1985 BMW 3 SERIES Start

friction surfaces of the brake shoes or
drums.
12Make sure the adjuster assembly is
properly engaged with its respective notch in
the handbrake lever.
13When refitting the automatic adjustment
mechanism, fit the lever on the shoe first (see
illustration), then hook the lower end of the
spring onto the lever and the upper end into
its hole in the front shoe (see illustration).
14When you’re done, the brake assembly
should look like this (see illustration). Now
proceed to the other brake.
15When you’re done with both brakes, refit
the brake drums.
16If the wheel cylinder was renewed (see
Note 2), bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 16.
17Depress the brake pedal repeatedly to
actuate the self-adjusting mechanism. A
clicking sound will be heard from the brake
drums as the adjusters take up the slack.
18Check the handbrake adjustment (Sec-
tion 11).
19Refit the wheels and bolts. Lower the
vehicle to the ground, and tighten the wheel
bolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1
Specifications. Check the operation of the
brakes carefully before driving the vehicle in
traffic.
7 Master cylinder-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Note: Although master cylinder parts and
overhaul kits are available for most models, we
recommend fitting a new or overhauled
master cylinder complete. It will take you more
time to overhaul the master cylinder than to
renew it, and you can’t even determine
whether the master cylinder is in good enough
condition to overhaul it until you have
dismantled it. You may very well find that itcan’t be overhauled because of its internal
condition.
Removal
1The master cylinder is connected to the
brake vacuum servo, and both are attached to
the bulkhead, located on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment (see illustration).
2Remove as much fluid as you can from the
reservoir with a syringe.
3Place rags under the line fittings, and
prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the
ends of the lines once they are disconnected.
Caution: Brake fluid will damage
paint. Cover all body parts, and
be careful not to spill fluid during
this procedure.
4Loosen the union nuts at the ends of the
brake lines where they enter the master
cylinder. To prevent rounding off the flats on
these nuts, a split ring (“brake”) spanner,
which wraps around the nut, should be used.
5Pull the brake lines away from the master
cylinder slightly, and plug the ends to prevent
dirt contamination and further fluid loss.
6Disconnect any electrical connectors at the
master cylinder, then remove the nutsattaching the master cylinder to the brake
servo. Pull the master cylinder off the studs,
and lift it out of the engine compartment.
Again, be careful not to spill fluid as this is
done. Discard the old O-ring (see illustration)
between the master cylinder and the servo
unit.
Warning: The O-ring should
always be renewed. A faulty O-
ring can cause a vacuum leak,
which can reduce braking performance
and cause an erratic idle.
Bleeding procedure
7Before fitting a new or overhauled master
cylinder, it should be bled on the bench.
Because it will be necessary to apply pressure
to the master cylinder piston and, at the same
time, control flow from the brake line outlets, it
is recommended that the master cylinder be
mounted in a vice. Use a vice with protected
jaws, and don’t clamp the vice too tightly, or
the master cylinder body might crack.
8Insert threaded plugs into the brake line
outlet holes. Tighten them down so that there
will be no air leakage past them, but not so
tight that they cannot be easily loosened.
9Fill the reservoir with brake fluid of the
recommended type (see “Lubricants, fluids
and capacities” in Chapter 1).
10Remove one plug, and push the piston
assembly into the master cylinder bore to
Braking system 9•9
6.14 When you get everything back
together, this is how it
should look! 6.13b . . . then hook the lower end of the
spring onto the lever as shown; stretch the
spring, and hook the upper end into its
hole in the handbrake shoe6.13a Refit the automatic adjuster lever
first - make sure it’s properly engaged with
the notch in the front end of the
adjuster mechanism . . .
7.6 Always renew the O-ring (1) - groove
arrowed - between the master cylinder and
the brake servo
7.1 To remove the master cylinder, unplug
the electrical connector (top arrow),
disconnect the brake fluid hydraulic line
fittings (lower right arrow, other fitting not
visible in this photo) and remove the two
master cylinder mounting nuts (lower left
arrow, other nut not visible in this photo) -
5-Series master cylinder shown, 3-Series
similar
9

expel the air from the master cylinder. A large
Phillips screwdriver can be used to push on
the piston assembly.
11To prevent air from being drawn back into
the master cylinder, the plug must be refitted
and tightened down before releasing the
pressure on the piston assembly.
12Repeat the procedure until brake fluid free
of air bubbles is expelled from the brake line
outlet hole. Repeat the procedure with the
other outlet hole and plug. Be sure to keep the
master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid, to prevent the introduction of air into the
system.
13High pressure is not involved in the bench
bleeding procedure, so the plugs described
above need not be refitted each time the
piston is released, if wished. Instead, before
releasing the piston, simply put your finger
tightly over the hole to keep air from being
drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait
several seconds for brake fluid to be drawn
from the reservoir into the piston bore, then
depress the piston again, removing your
finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put
your finger back over the hole each time
before releasing the piston, and when the
bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet,
refit the plug and tighten it up before going on
to the other port.
Refitting
14Refit the master cylinder (together with a
new O-ring) over the studs on the brake servo,
and tighten the mounting nuts only finger-tight
at this time.
15Thread the brake line fittings into the
master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is
still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly in
order for the fittings to thread in easily. Do not
strip the threads as the fittings are tightened.
16Tighten the brake fittings securely, and
the mounting nuts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
17Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid,
then bleed the master cylinder (only if the
cylinder has not already been bled) and the
brake system as described in Section 16.
18To bleed the cylinder on the vehicle, have
an assistant pump the brake pedal severaltimes and then hold the pedal to the floor.
Loosen the fitting nut to allow air and fluid to
escape, then tighten the nut. Repeat this
procedure on both fittings until the fluid is
clear of air bubbles. Test the operation of the
brake system carefully before returning the
vehicle to normal service.
8 Brake vacuum servo-
check, removal and refitting
3
Operating check
1Depress the brake pedal several times with
the engine off, until there is no change in the
pedal travel.
2Depress and hold the pedal, then start the
engine. If the pedal goes down slightly,
operation is normal.
Airtightness check
3Start the engine, and turn it off after one or
two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several
times slowly. If the pedal goes down further
the first time but gradually rises after the
second or third depression, the servo is
airtight.
4Depress the brake pedal while the engine is
running, then stop the engine with the pedal
depressed. If there is no change in the pedal
travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds,
the servo is airtight.
Removal and refitting
5Dismantling the vacuum servo requires
special tools, and cannot be performed by the
home mechanic. If a problem develops, it is
recommended that a new unit be fitted.
6Remove the master cylinder as described in
Section 7.
7Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
brake servo.
8Working in the passenger compartment,
remove the glovebox and lower left-hand trim
panels.
9Remove the clip and clevis pin to
disconnect the pushrod from the cross-shaft
lever (right-hand-drive models) or brake pedal(left-hand-drive models) (see illustration). On
left-hand-drive models, also disconnect the
brake pedal return spring.
10Remove the four mounting nuts (see
illustration)and withdraw the servo unit from
the engine compartment.
11Inspect the small foam filter (see
illustration)inside the rubber boot on the
pushrod. If the filter is clogged, it may affect
the servo’s performance. To clean the filter,
wash it in a mild soapy solution. If it’s still
dirty, renew it.
12Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the brake servo mounting
nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Before you slide the boot into
place over the servo pushrod air filter, make
sure the notches in the filter offset the notches
in the damper by 180 degrees.
13On 3-Series models, adjust the basic
setting of the pushrod’s threaded clevis until
the dimension is correct (see illustration).
When the basic setting is correct, tighten the
locknut, then adjust the brake pedal travel and
9•10 Braking system
8.13 On 3-Series models, adjust
dimension A (the distance between the
middle of the brake lever and the
bulkhead/”firewall”) by loosening the
locknut (1) at the pushrod clevis (2) and
turning the threaded part of the pushrod
until dimension A matches the dimension
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
When the basic setting is correct, tighten
the locknut, then adjust the brake pedal
height and the stop-light switch
8.11 An exploded view of a typical servo
pushrod assembly
1 Boot 2 Holder 3 Damper 4 Air filter8.10 Remove the four mounting nuts
(arrows) and withdraw the servo unit from
the engine compartment
(left-hand-drive model shown)
8.9 Disconnect the brake pedal return
spring, then remove the clip and clevis pin
(arrows) to disconnect the pushrod from
the brake pedal (left-hand-drive models)

the stop-light switch (see Section 13). Note:
On right-hand-drive models, the brake pedal
in on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and is
connected to the left-hand side by a cross-
shaft. The adjustment is carried out on the
pushrod at the left-hand side, but the
dimension is measured at the pedal on the
right-hand side.
14On 5-Series models, adjust the brake
pedal height and the stop-light switch (see
Section 13).
15Refit the master cylinder (see Section 7)
and attach the vacuum hose.
16Carefully test the operation of the brakes
before returning the vehicle to normal use
9 Hydraulic brake servo-
description, removal and
refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Description
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, a
hydraulic brake servo system is fitted. The
servo unit, located between the brake pedal
(left-hand-drive) or cross-shaft lever (right-
hand-drive) and the master cylinder, is
operated by hydraulic pressure generated by
the power steering pump. When the engine is
running, the power steering pump supplies
hydraulic pressure to a power flow regulator/
accumulator. The regulator/accumulator
stores and regulates the pressure to the
hydraulic brake servo. When you press the
brake pedal, the pressure in the servo helps
actuate the master cylinder, reducing pedal
effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo cannot be
overhauled; if it fails, a new one must be fitted.
Testing the system requires special tools, so
even fault diagnosis is beyond the scope of
the home mechanic. If the system fails, take it
to a dealer service department or other
qualified garage for repairs.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
20 times or more.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 7).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply line fittings, then disconnect them.
Plug the lines, to prevent dirt from entering the
system, and to prevent further fluid loss.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt
can damage the servo, so be
extremely careful to prevent dirt
from entering the system while
the lines are disconnected.
6Working from inside the passenger
compartment, remove the lower left trim
panels above the brake pedal (left-hand-drive
models) or glovebox and trim (right-hand-drive models). On left-hand-drive models, also
disconnect the pedal return spring.
7Prise off the retaining clip, and disconnect
the pushrod from the brake pedal (see
illustration 8.9) or cross-shaft lever.
8Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illus-
tration 8.10).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic lines to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Note:Don’t try to
tighten these fittings without a torque wrench.
If they’re loose, they can leak, which can affect
system operation; if they’re tight, they can be
damaged, and they’ll also leak. You’ll need a
crowfoot-type split ring (“brake”) attachment
for your torque wrench to tighten the fittings
properly.
10When you’re done, bleed the brake
hydraulic system (Section 16) and adjust the
brake pedal travel and the stop-light switch
(see Section 13).
10 Handbrake cable(s)- renewal
2
1Peel back the boot at the base of the
handbrake lever, and remove the handbrake
cable adjusting nut (see illustration)which
also secures the cable to the handbrake lever.There are two cables - one for each rear wheel
- and a nut for each cable. On some models, it
may be necessary to remove the centre
console completely for access.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the rear brake drum (see Section 6)
or rear brake disc (see Section 5).
4On rear drum models, unhook the
handbrake cable from the lever on the rear
brake shoe (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, remove the handbrake shoes and the
actuator (see Section 12) and unhook the
handbrake cable from the actuator (see
illustrations).
5On rear drum models, pull the cable and
cable conduit (tube) out of the back of the
brake backplate, then detach the cable
conduit from the cable clips on the back of
the trailing arm (it’s easier to pull out the old
cable, and fit the new cable, with the conduit
straight instead of curved). On rear disc
models, it’s unnecessary to detach the cable
conduit from the brake backplate, but it’s a
good idea to detach the conduit from the clips
and guides securing it to the trailing arm, to
take some of the bend out of the conduit.
6Working from the wheel end of the cable
conduit, pull the cable out of the conduit (see
illustration).
7Lubricate the new cable with multi-purpose
grease, then insert it into the cable conduit
Braking system 9•11
10.1 Peel back the handbrake lever boot
and remove the relevant handbrake cable
adjusting nut (both arrowed)
10.6 Pull the cable out of its conduit;
before you refit the new cable, be sure to
lubricate it with multi-purpose grease10.4b . . . then remove the pin securing the
cable to the inner cam, and remove the
inner cam
10.4a To detach the handbrake cable from
the handbrake actuator on models with rear
disc brakes, pull on the outer cam and
disconnect it from the inner cam . . .
9

and push it through until the forward end
comes out at the handbrake lever.
8Insert the cable conduit through the
backplate, and attach the rear end of the
cable to the handbrake lever (rear drum
models) or the actuator (rear disc models).
Make sure you don’t kink the cable while
connecting it.
9Refit the cable conduit to the clips on the
back of the trailing arm.
10On rear drum models, refit the brake
shoes and drum (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, refit the handbrake shoes and
actuator (see Section 12) and the rear brake
disc (see Section 5).
11Lower the vehicle, and refit the adjusting
nut at the handbrake lever. Adjust the
handbrake cable (see Section 11) and refit the
handbrake lever boot.
11 Handbrake- adjustment
2
Rear drum brake models
Note:Adjustment of the handbrake cable(s)
on models with rear drum brakes should only
be necessary when you renew a cable or
detach if from the rear brake assembly for
some reason. Failure of the handbrake system
to hold the vehicle usually indicates worn
brake shoes or a faulty self-adjusting
mechanism.
1Raise the rear of the vehicle, and place it
securely on axle stands.
2Fully release the handbrake lever, then
apply the brakes firmly several times with the
footbrake pedal.
3Pull the handbrake lever up five clicks.
4Tighten or loosen the adjusting nuts by
equal amounts until the rear brake shoes just
begin to drag on the brake drum. You should
feel the same amount of resistance at both
wheels when you rotate them.
5Release the handbrake lever, and verify that
the wheels rotate freely. If they don’t, re-
adjust them.
Rear disc brake models
Note: The handbrake system is not self-
adjusting on models with rear disc brakes. The
handbrake therefore requires periodic
adjustment to compensate for wear. It should
also be adjusted anytime either cable, brake
disc or handbrake assembly is renewed or
removed for some reason.
6Slowly apply the handbrake, and count the
number of clicks at the lever. If the lever can
be pulled up further than the eighth click,
adjust the handbrake cable as follows.
7Peel back the handbrake lever boot, and
loosen the cable adjusting nut (see
illustration 10.1). On some models, it may be
necessary to remove the centre console
completely for access.
8Loosen a single bolt in each rear wheel.Raise the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands.
9Remove the bolt you loosened in each rear
wheel. Turn the wheel until, using a torch, you
can see the adjuster starwheel through the
bolt hole.
10Turn the adjuster - clockwise to expand
the shoes, anti-clockwise to retract them -
until the brake shoes just contact the brake
drum (see illustration 5.6d). Back off the
brake shoes so the wheel spins freely (three to
four teeth on the adjuster). Note:If the
adjuster starwheel is hard to turn, remove the
wheel and brake disc, lubricate the adjuster
wheel, and try again.
11With the disc fitted, apply the handbrake
three times to stretch and seat the cables,
then slowly pull up on the handbrake lever to
the fifth click. Tighten the cable adjusting nuts
by equal amounts until the rear brake shoes
just touch the brake drum. Verify that both
wheels have the same amount of resistance.
12Release the handbrake, and verify that
both rear wheels rotate freely.
13Tighten the wheel bolts to the torque
listed in Chapter 1 Specifications.
12 Handbrake assembly-
check, removal and refitting
2
Warning: The handbrake linings
on rear disc brake models may
be manufactured of asbestos-
based material. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 6. When
servicing these components, do not create
dust by grinding or sanding the linings.
1The handbrake system should be checked
regularly. With the vehicle parked on a hill,
apply the handbrake, select neutral, and
check that the handbrake alone will hold the
vehicle when the footbrake is released (be
sure to stay in the vehicle during this check).
However, every 2 years (or whenever a fault is
suspected), the assembly itself should be
inspected.
2With the vehicle raised and supported onaxle stands, remove the rear wheels.
3On rear brake drum models, refer to
Chapter 1; checking the thickness of the
brake shoes is a routine maintenance
procedure.
4On rear disc brake models, remove the rear
discs as outlined in Section 5. Support the
caliper assemblies with a coat hanger or
heavy wire; do not disconnect the brake line
from the caliper.
5With the disc removed, the handbrake
components are visible, and can be inspected
for wear and damage. The linings should last
the life of the vehicle. However, they can wear
down if the handbrake system has been
improperly adjusted, or if the handbrake is
regularly used to stop the vehicle. There is no
minimum thickness specification for the
handbrake shoes, but as a rule of thumb, if
the shoe material is less than 1.5 mm thick,
you should renew them. Also check the
springs and adjuster mechanism and inspect
the drum for deep scratches and other
damage.
Removal and refitting
Note:The following procedure applies only to
models with rear disc brakes. The handbrake
system on models with rear drum brakes is an
integral part of the rear brake assembly (see
Section 6).
6Loosen the rear wheel bolts, raise the rear
of the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Remove the
brake discs (see Section 5). Work on only one
side at a time, so you can use the other side
as a reference during reassembly, and to
avoid mixing up parts.
7Remove the shoe return and hold-down
springs (see illustrations).
8Remove the shoes (see illustration).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. When
you’re done, the actuator should be properly
seated between the two shoes as shown (see
illustration).
10After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two wheel
bolts, turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.6d)
and expand the shoes until the disc locks,
9•12 Braking system
12.7b Remove the upper shoe
return spring12.7a Remove the lower shoe return
spring (diagonal cutting pliers are being
used here because they grip the spring
well, but care must be taken not to cut or
nick the spring)

then back off the adjuster until the shoes
don’t drag (see Section 11). Refit the wheel
bolts, and tighten them to the torque given in
Chapter 1 Specifications.
13 Brake pedal- adjustment
1
Note:You should always adjust brake pedal
height after the master cylinder or brake servo
has been removed or renewed. You should
also adjust the stop-light switch (see Sec-
tion 14).
1Measure the distance between the lower
edge of the brake pedal footpad (ie the edge
furthest from the bulkhead) and the bulkhead
(see illustration), and compare your
measurement with the dimension listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s not as listed,
loosen the locknut on the pushrod, and rotatethe pushrod while holding the clevis stationary
until the distance is correct. Note:On right-
hand-drive models, the adjustment is carried
out at the left-hand side of the cross-shaft,
after removing the glovebox, but the
dimension is still measured at the pedal.
14 Stop-light switch-
check and adjustment
1
Note:The stop-light switch should be
checked and, if necessary, adjusted after the
master cylinder or brake servo has been
removed or renewed.
1The stop-light switch is located on a
bracket at the top of the brake pedal. The
switch activates the brake lights whenever the
pedal is depressed.
2With the brake pedal in the rest position,
measure the distance between the switch
contact point on the brake pedal and the
switch housing (see illustration)and
compare your measurement with dimension A
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
3If your measurement is outside theindicated dimension, disconnect the wires
from the switch. Loosen the locknuts, screw
the switch in or out until the plunger
dimension is correct, and retighten the
locknuts. Reconnect the wires and check for
correct operation.
15 Brake hoses and lines-
inspection and renewal
4
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Inspection
1At the intervals specified in Chapter 1, the
brake hoses and lines should be inspected.
With the vehicle raised and placed securely
on axle stands, the flexible hoses should be
checked for cracks, chafing of the outer
cover, leaks, blisters and other damage.
These are important and vulnerable parts of
the brake system, and inspection should be
thorough. The metal pipes should be checked
for excessive pitting and corrosion. If a hose
or pipe exhibits any of the conditions
described, renew it.
Flexible hose renewal
2Clean all dirt away from the ends of the
hose. Have ready a suitable container to catch
spilled brake fluid when the hose is
disconnected.
3To disconnect the hose at the chassis end,
use a spanner to hold the hex-shaped fitting
on the end of the flexible hose, and loosen the
nut on the metal brake line (see illustration).
If the nut is stuck, soak it with penetrating oil.
After the hose is disconnected from the metal
line, remove the spring clip from the bracket
and detach the hose from the bracket.
4To detach the flexible hose from the caliper,
Braking system 9•13
12.9 When you’re done, the actuator
should be properly seated between the
two shoes as shown (hub removed for
clarity)12.8 Remove the shoes12.7c Remove the shoe hold-down springs
14.2 To adjust the stop-light switch,
loosen the locknuts (1) and screw the
switch (2) in or out until dimension A is
correct
13.1 To adjust the brake pedal height,
loosen the locknut (1) and turn the
pushrod (2) while holding the clevis (3) until
dimension A (the distance between the
lower edge of the brake pedal and the
bulkhead/”firewall”) is within the range
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (left-
hand-drive shown, right-hand-drive similar)
9
A torch and mirror will prove
helpful for a complete hose
and line check.

Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the nuts and bolts securely. Adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
8Top-up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Sec-
tion 23).
23 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Recheck the fluid level and top
up if necessary.
4Start the engine and run it at 1000 rpm or
less. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock again (three or four times) and recheck
the fluid level one more time. Note:On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, pump the
brake pedal five or six times before turning the
steering wheel. Once the fluid level remains
constant, continue turning the wheel back and
forth until no more bubbles appear in the fluid
in the reservoir.
5Lower the vehicle to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Recheck the fluid
level. Position the wheels straight-ahead.24 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If the vehicle is
equipped with an airbag, do not
attempt this procedure. Have it
performed by a dealer service
department or other qualified specialist, as
there is a risk of injury if the airbag is
accidentally triggered.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
BMW emblem in the centre of the steering
wheel.
3Remove the steering wheel nut, and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4On all 3-Series models, and on 1986 and
later 5-Series models, turn the ignition key to
the first position to unlock the ignition lock.
5Remove the steering wheel from thesteering shaft. If the wheel is difficult to
remove from the shaft, use a steering wheel
puller to remove it - don’t hammer on the
shaft.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to align the match marks you made on the
steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
25 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1
Note:For more information on care and
maintenance of tyres, refer to Chapter 1.
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel-belted radial tyres as
original equipment. Use of other types or
sizes of tyres may affect the ride and handling
of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types or
sizes of tyres, as the handling and braking
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be renewed in pairs on the same
axle; if only one new tyre is being fitted, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be renewed if they are bent,
heavily dented, leak air, or are otherwise
damaged.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics, as
well as tyre life. Whenever a new tyre is fitted,
the tyre and wheel should be balanced.
10•16 Suspension and steering systems
24.3 After removing the steering wheel
nut, mark the relationship of the steering
wheel to the steering shaft (arrowed) to
ensure proper alignment during
reassembly
22.6c Typical 5-Series power steering pump mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.6b . . . and mounting nut and bolt (arrowed)

it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.
6 Bodywork repair-
major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by a
qualified bodywork repair specialist, or
preferably by a BMW dealer. Specialised
equipment is required to do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the bodyshell
must be checked for proper alignment, or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that all of the major body
components (bonnet, wings, etc.) are
separate units, any seriously damaged
components should be replaced with new
ones rather than repaired.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for filling
small holes
Sometimes bodywork
components can be found in
a scrapyard that specialises
in used vehicle components,
often at a considerable saving over the
cost of new parts.

19 Steering column shrouds -
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10).
3Remove the upper shroud screws (see
illustration).
4Remove the two screws from the underside
of the column (see illustration).
5Detach the lower shroud, then lift the upper
half off the column (see illustrations).
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
20 Seats- removal and refitting
1
Front seat
1Remove the four bolts securing the seat
track to the floorpan, and lift the seat from the
vehicle (see illustration). On some models, it
will be necessary to disconnect the seat
heating wiring; it may also be necessary to
detach the seat belt from the seat.2Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts securely.
Rear seat cushion
3If applicable, first remove the two retaining
bolts. Grasp the front of the cushion
(Saloon/Convertible models) or the rear of the
cushion (Touring/Estate models) securely, and
pull up sharply (see illustration).
4Refitting is the reverse of the removal.
21 Seat belt check
1
1Check the seat belts, buckles, lock plates
and guide loops for obvious damage and
signs of wear.
2Where applicable, check that the seat belt
reminder light comes on when the ignition key
is turned to the Run or Start position.
3The seat belts are designed to lock up
during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free
movement during normal driving. Check thatthe retractors return the belt against your
chest while driving and rewind the belt fully
when the buckle is unlocked.
4If any of the above checks reveal problems
with the seat belt system, renew parts as
necessary.
5Belts which have been subject to impact
loads must be renewed.
Bodywork and fittings 11•9
19.5a Pull the tilt lever down (where fitted),
and lower the shroud from the steering
column19.4 The lower screws are located under
the tilt lever (where fitted)19.3 Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove
the upper column shroud screws
20.3 Grasp the seat at the front edge and
pull up sharply (Saloon/Convertible
models)20.1 The front seats are held in place by
bolts (arrowed)
19.5b Rotate the upper shroud up and off
the steering column
11