1985 BMW 3 SERIES Oil

Suspension and steering systems 10•3
1.1b Front suspension and steering
components (5-Series models -
left-hand-drive shown)
1 Subframe
2 Anti-roll bar
3 Anti-roll bar link
4 Centre track rod
5 Outer track rod
6 Track rod end
7 Steering arm
8 Control arm
9 Thrust arm
10 Strut
1.2 Rear suspension components
(3-Series models)
1 Shock absorber
2 Coil spring
3 Driveshaft
4 Trailing arm
5 Rear axle carrier
6 Anti-roll bar link
1.3 Rear suspension components
(5-Series models - left-hand-drive shown)
1 Shock absorber/coil spring assembly
2 Driveshaft
3 Anti-roll bar link
4 Anti-roll bar
5 Trailing arm
6 Rear axle carrier
10

6 Strut or shock absorber/coil
spring- renewal
4
Note:This section applies to all front strut
assemblies and, on 5-Series models, the rear
coil-over shock absorber assemblies.
1If the struts, shock absorbers or coil springs
exhibit the telltale signs of wear (leaking fluid,
loss of damping capability, chipped, sagging
or cracked coil springs) explore all options
before beginning any work. Strut or shock
absorber assemblies complete with springs
may be available on an exchange basis, which
eliminates much time and work. Whichever
route you choose to take, check on the cost
and availability of parts before dismantling the
vehicle.
Warning: Dismantling a strut or
coil-over shock absorber
assembly is a potentially
dangerous undertaking, and
utmost attention must be directed to the
job, or serious injury may result. Use only a
high-quality spring compressor, and
carefully follow the manufacturer’s
instructions supplied with the tool. After
removing the coil spring from the strut
assembly, set it aside in a safe, isolated
area.
2Remove the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11). Mount the
assembly in a vice. Line the vice jaws with
wood or rags to prevent damage to the unit,
and don’t tighten the vice excessively.
3Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor (these
can be obtained at most car accessory shops,
or it may be possible to hire one) on the
spring, and compress it sufficiently to relieve
all pressure from the suspension support (see
illustration). This can be verified by wiggling
the spring.
4Prise the protective cap off the damper rod
self-locking nut. Loosen the nut (see
illustration)with a spanner while holding thedamper rod stationary with another spanner
or an Allen key.
5Remove the nut, the strut bearing, the
insulator and the large washer. Check the
bearing for smooth operation. If it doesn’t turn
smoothly, renew it. Check the rubber insulator
for cracking and general deterioration. If there
is any separation of the rubber, renew the
insulator.
6Lift off the spring retainer and the rubber
ring at the top of the spring. Check the rubber
ring for cracking and hardness. Renew it if
necessary.
7Carefully lift the compressed spring from
the assembly and set it in a safe place, such
as a steel cabinet.
Warning: Never place your head
near the end of the spring!
8Slide the protective tube and rubber
bumper off the damper rod. If either is
damaged or worn, renew it.
9If you’re working on a front strut, loosen
and remove the threaded collar (see
illustration)and pull the old strut cartridge
from the strut housing. Pour the old oil from
the strut housing.
10On all struts except gas-charged units, fill
the strut housing with 20 to 25 cc (3-Series),
42 to 47 cc (518i and 520i 5-Series models) or
20 to 25 cc (all other 5-Series models) ofengine oil (the oil helps cool the shock
absorber by transferring heat to the strut
housing). Note:It doesn’t matter what
viscosity or grade of engine oil is used.
11Refitting is otherwise the reverse of
removal. Tighten the threaded collar to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Make sure you align the end of the coil spring
with the shoulder of the rubber ring and with
the spring retainer (see illustration). Tighten
the damper rod nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
12Refit the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11).
7 Balljoints- check and renewal
3
Check
Note:On 3-Series models, there are two
balljoints on each control arm - one between
the middle of the arm and the subframe, and
the other between the outer end of the arm
and the steering knuckle. On 5-Series models,
there are balljoints on the outer ends of the
control arm and the thrust arm.
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2Visually inspect the rubber boot between
the balljoint and the subframe or steering
knuckle, etc for cuts, tears or leaking grease.
If you note any of these conditions, renew the
control arm or thrust arm - the balljoints are
not available separately.
3Place a large lever under the balljoint, and
try to push the balljoint up. Next, position the
lever between the arm and the subframe or
between the arm and steering knuckle. If you
can see or feel any movement during either
check, a worn balljoint is indicated.
4Have an assistant grasp the tyre at the top
and bottom, and shake the top of the tyre with
an in-and-out motion. Touch the balljoint stud
nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn
balljoint stud or a widened hole in the
subframe or steering knuckle. If the latter
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
6.4 Prise the protective cap off the
damper rod nut, and remove the large nut
(arrowed) - to prevent the damper rod from
turning, place an Allen key in the end of
the shaft6.3 Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor to
the spring, and compress it sufficiently to
relieve all pressure from the suspension
support
6.11 Make sure you align the end of the
coil spring with the shoulder of the rubber
ring, and with the spring retainer
6.9 Loosen and remove the threaded
collar, and pull the old strut cartridge from
the strut housing - on all struts except
gas-charged units, pour the old oil from
the strut housing. (Spring should have
been removed first!)
10

4On some models, working inside the boot,
you can remove the trim to access the upper
mounting nuts; on later models, you’ll have to
remove the rear seat back to get at the upper
mounting nuts. On Touring (Estate) models,
remove the side backrest and rear seat belt
reels, and unscrew the centring shell on the
wheel arch. On Convertibles, simply remove
the top from the recessed well behind the
passenger compartment, and remove the
small rubber access cover. As you remove the
mounting nuts (see illustration), have an
assistant support the shock absorber from
below so it doesn’t fall out.
5Look for oil leaking past the seal in the top
of the shock absorber body. Inspect the
rubber bushings in the shock absorber eye. If
they’re cracked, dried or torn, renew them. To
test the shock absorber, grasp the shock
absorber body firmly with one hand, and push
the damper rod in and out with the other. The
strokes should be smooth and firm. If the rod
goes in and out too easily, or unevenly, the
shock absorber is defective and must be
renewed.
Refitting
6Fit the shock absorbers in the reverse order
of removal, but don’t tighten the mounting
bolts and nuts yet.
7Bounce the rear of the vehicle a couple of
times to settle the bushings, then tighten the
nuts and bolts to the torque values listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications.
10 Rear coil springs (3-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Note: Although coil springs don’t always wear
out simultaneously, renew both left and right
springs at the same time, to prevent handling
peculiarities or abnormal ride quality.
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts. Chock the front
wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle andsupport it securely on axle stands. Make sure
the stands don’t interfere with the rear
suspension when it’s lowered and raised
during this procedure. Remove the wheels.
2Disconnect the mountings and brackets
which support the rear portion of the exhaust
system, and temporarily lower the exhaust
system (see Chapter 4). Lower the exhaust
system only enough to lower the suspension
and remove the springs. Suspend the exhaust
with a piece of wire.
3Support the differential with a trolley jack,
then remove the differential rear mounting
bolt. Push the differential down, and wedge it
into this lowered position with a block of
wood. This reduces the drive angle,
preventing damage to the CV joints when the
trailing arms are lowered to remove the
springs.
4Place a trolley jack under the trailing arm.
5If the vehicle has a rear anti-roll bar,
disconnect the bar from its connecting links,
or disconnect the links from the trailing arms
(see Section 12).
6Loop a chain through the coil spring, and
bolt the chain together, to prevent the coil
spring from popping out when the trailing arm
is lowered. Be sure to leave enough slack in
the chain to allow the spring to extend
completely.
7Disconnect the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see Section 9), carefully lower
the trailing arm and remove the coil spring.
Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. As the
trailing arm is raised back up, make sure the
spring seats properly.
11 Rear shock absorber/coil
spring assembly (5-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note:Although shock absorbers don’t always
wear out simultaneously, renew both left and
right shock absorbers at the same time, to
prevent handling peculiarities or abnormal ride
quality.1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
2Remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see illustration).
3On early models, peel back the trim inside
the luggage compartment far enough to
access the upper mounting nuts. To get at the
upper mounting nuts on later models, first
remove the rear seat cushion (see Chap-
ter 11), then remove the two bolts holding the
rear seat backrest, and remove the backrest.
Support the trailing arm with a jack, and
remove the upper mounting nuts (see
illustration). Lower the jack, and remove the
shock absorber and the gasket. To separate
the shock absorber and spring, refer to
Section 6.
Refitting
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Don’t
forget to fit the gasket between the upper end
of the shock absorber and the body. Tighten
the upper nuts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Don’t tighten the
lower bolt until the vehicle is lowered.
5Lower the vehicle, and with it sitting at the
normal ride height, tighten the lower bolt to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
12 Rear anti-roll bar-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
Note:The rear anti-roll bar is mounted
basically the same way on all models. Follow
these general removal and refitting
procedures, keeping in mind any variations.
1Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands.
2Remove the anti-roll bar bracket bolts or
nuts (see illustration).
3Disconnect the anti-roll bar from the link at
each end of the bar (see illustrations)and
detach the anti-roll bar.
Suspension and steering systems 10•9
11.3 Shock absorber upper mounting nuts
(arrowed) on a later (E34) 5-Series model11.2 Remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (arrowed)9.4 Shock absorber upper mounting nuts
(arrowed) - late-model convertible shown.
On other early models, upper nuts are
accessible from the luggage compartment;
on later models, they’re behind the back of
the rear seat, up under the parcel shelf
10

11
1 General information
These models feature an all-steel welded
construction, where the floorpan and body
components are welded together and
attached to separate front and rear subframe
assemblies. Certain components are
particularly vulnerable to accident damage,
and can be unbolted and repaired or renewed.
Among these parts are the body mouldings,
bumpers, bonnet, doors, tailgate, and all
glass.
Only general body maintenance procedures
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Bodywork and underframe-
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheelarches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be usedon vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear, so that water can
be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in
the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears, by the use of proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.
Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Bodywork repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bodywork repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Boot lid/tailgate - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Fixed glass - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Interior trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal, refitting and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering column shrouds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
11•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents

3 Interior trim- maintenance
1
Interior trim panels can be kept clean by
wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become
stained (which can be more apparent on light-
coloured trim), use a little liquid detergent and
a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the
grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the
headlining clean in the same way. After
cleaning, application of a high-quality rubber
and vinyl protector will help prevent oxidation
and cracks. The protector can also be applied
to weatherstrips, vacuum lines and rubber
hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical
degradation, and to the tyres.
4 Upholstery and carpets-
maintenance
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
5 Bodywork repair-
minor damage
3
Note:For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as
details on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal insidethe area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,
particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.

it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.
6 Bodywork repair-
major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by a
qualified bodywork repair specialist, or
preferably by a BMW dealer. Specialised
equipment is required to do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the bodyshell
must be checked for proper alignment, or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that all of the major body
components (bonnet, wings, etc.) are
separate units, any seriously damaged
components should be replaced with new
ones rather than repaired.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for filling
small holes
Sometimes bodywork
components can be found in
a scrapyard that specialises
in used vehicle components,
often at a considerable saving over the
cost of new parts.

7 Hinges and locks-
maintenance
1
Every six months or so, the hinges and lock
assemblies on the doors, bonnet and the boot
lid/tailgate should be given a few drops of
light oil or lock lubricant. The door or tailgate
lock strikers should also be lubricated with a
thin coat of grease, to reduce wear and
ensure free movement.
8 Fixed glass- renewal
5
Renewal of the windscreen and fixed glass
requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive materials, and some specialised
tools and techniques. These operations
should be left to a dealer service department
or windscreen specialist.
9 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
1
3-Series
1Detach the clips along the top of the grille
(see illustration).2Remove the screws, and lift the centre and
side grilles out (see illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5-Series
E28 (“old-shape”) models
6Remove the screws, and detach the centre
and side grille pieces.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
E34 (“new-shape”) models
Centre grille
8Remove the screws and detach the
headlight covers in the engine compartment
for access.
9Remove the screw, and lift out the plastic
cover behind the centre grille for access to the
clips.
10From the engine compartment, reach
under the headlight housings and detach the
clips retaining the centre grille valances, then
push the grille forwards (see illustration).
11Use a screwdriver to depress the clips,
detach the grille assembly and remove it by
pulling it straight out.
12Refit the centre grille by placing it in
position and pushing it straight back until it
clips into place.
Side grille
13Remove the centre grille.
14Remove the screws, and lift the side grille
assembly out (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Bonnet- removal, refitting and
adjustment
1
Note: The bonnet is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
3-Series models
1Open the bonnet. Scribe or draw alignment
marks around the bolt heads to ensure proper
alignment on refitting (see illustration).
2Disconnect the earth cable and windscreen
washer hose from the bonnet.
3Detach the bonnet hinge rod clip and
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
10.3a Use needle-nose pliers to pull off
the hinge pin clip . . .
10.1 Use paint or a marking pen to mark
on the hinge plate around the bolt heads -
mark around the entire hinge plate, if
desired, before adjusting the bonnet
9.14 Remove the screws and pull the side
grille assembly straight out
9.10 Detach the centre grille valance by
reaching under each headlight and
pressing on the release lever
9.2b Side grille screw locations (arrowed)9.2a The centre grille is held in place by
two screws (arrowed)9.1 Open the bonnet and remove the grille
retaining clips (arrowed)

19After adjustment, screw the stop pads in
or out to support the bonnet in its new
position (see illustration).
20The bonnet mechanism should be
lubricated periodically with grease, to prevent
sticking or jamming.
11 Bumpers-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Detach the bumper cover (if applicable) and
where necessary the front spoiler.
2Disconnect any wiring or other components
that would interfere with bumper removal.
3Support the bumper with a jack or axle
stand. Alternatively, have an assistant support
the bumper as the bolts are removed.
4Remove the retaining bolts and detach the
bumper.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts securely, then refit the
bumper cover and any other components that
were removed.
12 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery, Refer to the
information on page 0-7 at the front of this
manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove all door trim panel retaining screws
and door pull/armrest assemblies.3On models with manual (non-electric)
windows, remove the window regulator
handle (see illustration). On models with
electric windows, prise off the control switch
assembly and unplug it.
4Disengage the trim panel-to-door retaining
clips. Work around the outer edge until the
panel is free.
5Once all of the clips are disengaged, detach
the trim panel, unplug any electrical
connectors, and remove the trim panel from
the vehicle.
6For access to the inner door, carefully peel
back the plastic water shield.
Refitting
7Prior to refitting the door trim panel, be sure
to renew any clips in the panel which may
have come out (or got broken) during the
removal procedure.
8Plug in the electrical connectors (where
applicable) and place the panel in position in
the door. Press the door panel into place until
the clips are seated, then refit the
armrest/door pulls. Refit the window regulator
handle, where applicable.
13 Door- removal, refitting and
adjustment
1
Removal
1Remove the door trim panel (see Section
12). Disconnect any electrical connectors, andpush them through the door opening so they
won’t interfere with door removal.
2Place a trolley jack or axle stand under the
door, or have an assistant on hand to support
it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: If a
jack or axle stand is used, place a rag between
it and the door, to protect the door’s painted
surfaces.
3Scribe or mark around the door hinges.
4Disconnect the door check strap by prising
the circlip out of the end of the pin, then slide
the pin out (see illustration). A roll pin is fitted
to some models; this is removed by driving it
out with a pin punch.
5Remove the hinge-to-door nuts, and
carefully lift off the door (see illustration).
Refitting and adjustment
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7Following refitting of the door, check the
alignment and adjust it if necessary as
follows:
a) Up-and-down and fore-and-aft
adjustments are made by loosening the
hinge-to-body nuts and moving the door
as necessary.
b) The door lock striker can also be adjusted
both up and down and sideways, to
provide positive engagement with the lock
mechanism. This is done by loosening the
mounting bolts and moving the striker as
necessary (see illustration).
14 Boot lid/tailgate- removal,
refitting and adjustment
1
Boot lid
1Open the boot lid, and cover the edges of
the boot compartment with pads or cloths to
protect the painted surfaces when the lid is
removed.
2Disconnect any cables or electrical
connectors attached to the boot lid that would
interfere with removal.
3Make alignment marks around the hinge
bolts (see illustration).
4Have an assistant support the lid, then
remove the lid-to-hinge bolts on both sides
and lift it off.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
13.7 The door lock striker position can be
adjusted after loosening the screws
(arrowed)13.5 Remove the nuts (arrowed) and
detach the door from the hinges
13.4 Detach the circlip (arrowed) from the
tapered end of the pin12.3 On models without electric windows,
prise off the window regulator handle trim
piece for access to the retaining screw