1984 BMW 3 SERIES Reverse light

0•9Roadside Repairs
When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:
4Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.
4Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.
4Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.
4If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.
4Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are
three possibilities:
1The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
2The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).
3The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
batteryConnect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery
Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.
123
4
Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the
engine.5
Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.6
Jump starting

Flushing
7Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from a
garden hose until the water runs clear at the
drain or bottom hose. If the radiator is
severely corroded, damaged or leaking, it
should be removed (see Chapter 3) and taken
to a radiator repair specialist.
8Flushing in this way will remove sediments
from the radiator, but will not remove rust and
scale from the engine and cooling tube
surfaces. These deposits can be removed by
using a chemical cleaner. Follow the
procedure outlined in the cleaner
manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the
cylinder block drain plug before flushing the
engine.
9On models so equipped, remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose.
Refilling
10Tighten the radiator drain plug, or
reconnect the radiator bottom hose. Refit and
tighten the cylinder block drain plug.
Four-cylinder engines
11Slowly add new coolant (a 40%/60%
mixture of antifreeze to water) to the radiator
until it is full. Add coolant to the reservoir up
to the lower mark.
12Leave the radiator cap off, and run the
engine in a well-ventilated area until the
thermostat opens (coolant will begin flowing
through the radiator, and the upper radiator
hose will become hot).
13Turn the engine off, and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the coolant
level back up to the lip on the radiator filler
neck. On the M40 engine, unscrew the bleed
screw from the top of the radiator, and add
coolant until it comes out of the bleed screw
hole. Refit and tighten the bleed screw.
14Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the radiator cap.
15Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature, and check for leaks.
Six-cylinder engines
16Loosen the bleed screw in the thermostat
housing (see illustration)
17Fill the radiator with a 40%/60% solution
of antifreeze and water until it comes out of
the bleed screw opening. Tighten the bleed
screw.
18Refit the radiator cap, and run the engine
until the thermostat opens (the upper radiator
hose will become hot). Slowly loosen the
bleed screw until no bubbles emerge, then
tighten the screw.
19Repeat the procedure until the air is bled
from the system.
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
1On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system (see Chapter 4).
2The fuel filter is located in the engine
compartment on the bulkhead, or under the
vehicle adjacent to the fuel tank.
3Because on some models the filter is
located adjacent to the starter motor, fuel
could leak onto the electrical connections. For
safety reasons, therefore, disconnect the
battery negative cable before beginning work.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
4Place a pan or rags under the fuel filter to
catch any spilled fuel. If suitable hose clamps
are available, clamp the inlet and outlet hoses.
5 Detach the hoses and remove the bracket
screws/nuts, then remove the filter and where
applicable the bracket assembly (see
illustration).
6Detach the filter from the bracket.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
the arrow on the filter points in the direction of
fuel flow.
31 Manual transmission
lubricant change
1
1Tools necessary for this job include axle
stands to support the vehicle in a raised
position, an Allen key to remove the drain
plug, a drain pan, newspapers and clean rags.
The correct amount of the specified lubricant
should also be available (see “Lubricants and
fluids”at the start of this Chapter).
2The lubricant should be drained when it is
hot (ie immediately after the vehicle has been
driven); this will remove any contaminants
better than if the lubricant were cold. Because
1•25
30.5 To renew the fuel filter, disconnect
the hoses (A), then unscrew the nut (B) and
detach the filter from the bracket (fuel
injection type shown)29.16 The bleed screw (arrowed) is
located on the thermostat housing (six-
cylinder models)29.4 Radiator drain plug location
(arrowed) - not fitted to all models
31.5 Use an Allen key to remove the drain
plug (arrowed) from the bottom of the
transmission
1
Every 24 000 miles

8 Timing chain and
sprockets- removal,
inspection and refitting
5
Note:This procedure applies to M10 and M30
engines.
Caution: Once the engine is set
at TDC, do not rotate the
camshaft or crankshaft until the
timing chain is reinstalled. If the
crankshaft or camshaft is rotated with the
timing chain removed, the valves could hit
the pistons, causing expensive internal
engine damage.
Removal
1Position the No 1 cylinder at Top Dead
Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke (see
Section 3).
2Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
Double-check that the No 1 cylinder is at TDC
on the compression stroke by making sure the
No 1 cylinder rocker arms are loose (not
compressing their valve springs).
3Remove the upper timing chain cover (see
Section 7). Note the location of the camshaft
timing marks, which should now be aligned.
On four-cylinder (M10) engines, there’s
usually a stamped line on the camshaft flange
that aligns with a cast mark on the top of the
cylinder head; also, the camshaft sprocket
dowel pin hole will be at its lowest point. On
six-cylinder (M30) engines, a line drawn
through two of the camshaft sprocket bolts
opposite each other would be exactly vertical,
while a line drawn through the other two bolts
would be horizontal. Additionally, the locating
pin should be in the lower left corner (between
the 7 and 8 o’clock positions). Be sure you’ve
identified the correct camshaft TDC position
before dismantling, because correct valve
timing depends on you aligning them exactly
on reassembly. Note:As the engine is
mounted in the engine compartment at anangle, all references to horizontal and vertical
whilst timing the camshafts are in relation to
the crankshaft, and not the ground.
4Hold the crankshaft stationary with a socket
and ratchet on the vibration damper centre bolt,
then loosen (but don’t unscrew completely) the
four bolts attaching the camshaft sprocket to
the camshaft. Be very careful not to rotate the
camshaft or crankshaft. Note:Some earlier
models may have locking tabs for the camshaft
sprocket bolts. Bend the tabs down before
loosening the bolts. The tabs are no longer
available from the manufacturer, and do not
have to be used on refitting.
5Remove the lower timing chain cover (see
Section 7).
6Unscrew and remove the four camshaft
sprocket bolts, then disengage the chain from
the crankshaft sprocket and carefully remove
the chain and camshaft sprocket from the
engine. It may be necessary to gently prise
the camshaft sprocket loose from the
camshaft with a screwdriver.
Inspection
Timing sprockets
7Examine the teeth on both the crankshaft
sprocket and the camshaft sprocket for wear.
Each tooth forms an inverted V. If worn, the
side of each tooth under tension will be
slightly concave in shape when compared
with the other side of the tooth (i.e. one side of
the inverted V will be concave when
compared with the other, giving the teeth a
hooked appearance). If the teeth appear to be
worn, the sprockets must be renewed. Note:
The crankshaft sprocket is a press fit on the
crankshaft, and can be removed with a jaw-
type puller after the Woodruff key and oil
pump are removed (see Section 14). However,
BMW recommends the new sprocket be
pressed onto the crankshaft after being
heated to 80°C (175°F) on the M10 engine, or
to 200°C(390°F) on the M30 engine. For this
reason, if the crankshaft sprocket requires
renewal, we recommend removing the
crankshaft (see Part B of this Chapter) and
taking it to an engineering works to have the
old sprocket pressed off and a new one
pressed on.
Timing chain
8The chain should be renewed if the
sprockets are worn or if the chain is loose
(indicated by excessive noise in operation).
It’s a good idea to renew the chain anyway if
the engine is stripped down for overhaul. The
rollers on a very badly worn chain may be
slightly grooved. To avoid future problems, if
there’s any doubt at all about the chain’s
condition, renew it.
Chain rail and tensioner
9Inspect the chain guide rail and tensioner
rail for deep grooves caused by chain contact.
Renew them if they are excessively worn. The
rails can be renewed after removing the
circlips with a pointed tool or needle-nose
pliers (see illustration).10Shake the tensioner plunger, and listen for
a rattling sound from the check ball. If you
can’t hear the ball rattling, renew the plunger.
11To further check the tensioner plunger,
blow through it first from the closed end, then
from the slotted (guide) end. No air should
flow through the plunger when you blow
through the closed end, and air should flow
through it freely when you blow through the
slotted end. If the tensioner fails either test,
renew it.
Refitting
12Refit the tensioner rail and chain guide
rail, if removed.
13Temporarily refit the lower timing chain
cover and vibration damper, so you can check
the crankshaft timing marks. Once you’ve
verified the TDC marks are aligned, remove
the damper and cover.
14Loop the timing chain over the crankshaft
sprocket, then loop it over the camshaft
sprocket and, guiding the chain between the
chain guide and tensioner rail, refit the
camshaft sprocket on the camshaft. Make
sure the camshaft timing marks are aligned.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to tighten the fasteners to
the correct torques (see this Chapter’s Speci-
fications).
9 Timing belt covers-
removal and refitting
2
Note:This procedure applies to M20 and M40
engines.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove the fan clutch and fan shroud (see
Chapter 3).
3On the M20 engine, remove the radiator
(see Chapter 3).
4Remove the fan drivebelt pulley.
2A•8 In-car engine repair procedures
9.6a Unbolt the distributor cap
(M40 engine) . . .
8.9 To remove the tensioner or chain guide
rail, remove the circlips with a pointed tool
or needle-nose pliers - the circlips tend to
fly off when they’re released, so make sure
you catch them or they’ll get lost (or,
worse, wind up in the engine!)

applied. Tighten the retaining nut to the
specified torque to hold the tensioner in its
correct position. Note:It is important that the
timing belt is tensioned correctly. If the belt is
over-tightened, it will howl, and there is the
possibility of it being damaged. If the belt is
too slack, it may jump on the sprockets.
24Check to make sure the camshaft and
crankshaft timing marks are still aligned(see
illustrations 10.5a and 10.5b).
25Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
two complete revolutions. (Remove the
camshaft positioning tool from the M40
engine first.)
Caution: This is necessary to
stretch the new belt. If not done,
the belt tensioner will be too
loose, and damage could result.
26On the M20 engine, loosen the tensioner
roller bolts, then tighten them to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
27On the M40 engine, loosen the tensioner
roller retaining nut, and re-adjust the tension
of the timing belt as described in paragraph
23. On completion, tighten the tensioner roller
retaining nut, then fully tighten the camshaft
sprocket bolt if previously loosened (see
illustration).
28Verify that the timing marks are still
perfectly aligned. If not, remove and refit the
timing belt.
29The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
11 Front oil seals- renewal
5
Note:Oil seals are fitted with their sealing lips
facing inwards (towards the engine).
M10 and M30 (timing chain)
engines
Camshaft front seal (M30 engines
only)
1Remove the upper timing chain cover only
(see Section 7).2Support the cover on two blocks of wood,
and drive out the seal from behind with a
hammer and screwdriver. Be very careful not
to damage the seal bore in the process.
3Coat the outside diameter and lip of the
new seal with multi-purpose grease, and drive
the seal into the cover with a hammer and a
socket slightly smaller in diameter than the
outside diameter of the seal.
4The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
Crankshaft front seal (M10 and
M30 engines)
5Remove the crankshaft pulley and vibration
damper (see Section 7).
6Carefully prise the old seal out of the cover
with a large screwdriver. Be very careful not to
damage the seal bore or the crankshaft with
the tool. Wrap the tip of the screwdriver with a
piece of tape to prevent damage.
7Clean the bore in the cover, and coat the
outer edge of the new seal with engine oil or
multi-purpose grease. Also lubricate the lips
of the seal with multi-purpose grease. Using a
socket with an outside diameter slightly
smaller than the outside diameter of the seal,
carefully drive the new seal into place with a
hammer (see illustration). If a socket isn’t
available, a short section of large-diameter
pipe will work. Check the seal after refitting to
be sure the spring around the inside of the
seal lip didn’t pop out of place.
8The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
M20 and M40 (timing belt)
engines
Camshaft front seal (M20 and
M40 engines)
9Remove the timing belt and camshaft
sprocket (see Section 10).
10On the M20 engine only, remove the two
screws, and separate the camshaft seal
housing from the cylinder head by pulling it as
you rotate it back and forth.
11On the M20 engine only, support the
housing on two blocks of wood, and drive the
seal out of the housing from behind using ahammer and screwdriver. Be very careful not
to damage the seal housing.
12On the M40 engine, prise the seal out
from the cylinder head using a screwdriver,
being careful not to damage the camshaft
surface or the seal bore.
13Coat the lip and outside diameter of the
new seal with multi-purpose grease.
14On the M40 engine, wrap some adhesive
tape around the end of the camshaft to
protect the new seal from the location groove
as it is being fitted (see illustration).
15Carefully locate the new seal in position,
and press it in by hand initially so that it enters
the bore. Drive the new seal into the housing
or cylinder head (as applicable) using a
hammer and a socket with a diameter slightly
smaller than the outside diameter of the seal.
On the M40 engine, remove the adhesive tape
from the end of the camshaft.
16On the M20 engine, renew the O-ring on
the back of the seal housing, and work the lip
of the seal over the end of the camshaft. Refit
the screws and tighten them securely.
17The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
Crankshaft and intermediate shaft
front seals (M20 engines)
18Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
and intermediate shaft pulleys as applicable
(see Section 10). Note:We recommend the
timing belt be renewed any time it is removed.
19Remove the bolts and nuts securing the
front cover to the engine block. Be sure to
remove the three bolts from underneath that
connect the front of the sump to the bottom of
the front cover (see illustration 7.14).
20Run a sharp, thin knife between the sump
gasket and the front cover, cutting the cover
free from the gasket. Be very careful not to
damage the gasket, and keep it clean so you
can re-use it.
21Break the front cover-to-block gasket seal
by tapping the cover with a rubber mallet or
block of wood and hammer. Do not prise
between the cover and the engine block, as
damage to the gasket sealing surfaces will
result.
2A•12 In-car engine repair procedures
11.14 Fitting a new camshaft oil seal on
the M40 engine (note the adhesive tape
around the end of the camshaft to protect
the seal)11.7 The crankshaft front oil seal is
pressed into the front of the lower timing
chain cover (cover removed from the
engine for clarity)10.27 Tightening the camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt on the M40 engine

22Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the covers and engine block.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may
prove helpful. After all gasket material has
been removed, the gasket surfaces
can be degreased by wiping them
with a rag dampened with a suitable
solvent.
23Support the cover on two blocks of wood,
and drive out the seals from behind with a
hammer and screwdriver. Be very careful not
to damage the seal bores in the process.
24Coat the outside diameters and lips of the
new seals with multi-purpose grease, and
drive the seals into the cover with a hammer
and a socket slightly smaller in diameter than
the outside diameter of the seal.
25Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates
with the front cover. Apply extra beads of RTV
sealant to the edges where the gasket meets
the engine block. Note:If the sump gasket is
damaged, instead of fitting a whole new
gasket, you might try trimming the front
portion of the gasket off at the point where it
meets the engine block, then trim off the front
portion of a new sump gasket so it’s exactly
the same size. Cover the exposed inside area
of the sump with a rag, then clean all traces of
old gasket material off the area where the
gasket was removed. Attach the new gasket
piece to the sump with contact-cement-type
gasket adhesive, then apply RTV-type sealant
as described at the beginning of this
paragraph.
26Coat both sides of the new gasket with
RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the front
cover to the front of the engine, carefully
working the seals over the crankshaft and
intermediate shaft. Refit the bolts and tighten
them evenly to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Work from bolt-to-
bolt in a criss-cross pattern, to be sure they’re
tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the front
cover-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-cover bolts. Note 2:After applying
RTV-type sealant, reassembly must be
completed in about 10 minutes so the RTV
won’t prematurely harden.
27The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
Crankshaft front seal (M40 engines)
28Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket (see Section 10).
29Remove the Woodruff key from the
groove in the end of the crankshaft.
30Note the fitted position of the oil seal, then
prise it out from the front cover using a
screwdriver, but take care not to damage the
bore of the cover or the surface of thecrankshaft. If the seal is tight, drill two small
holes in the metal end of the seal, and use two
self-tapping screws to pull out the seal. Make
sure all remains of swarf are removed.
31Coat the outside diameter and lip of the
new seal with multi-purpose grease, then
drive it into the cover with a hammer and a
socket slightly smaller in diameter than the
outside diameter of the seal. Make sure the
seal enters squarely.
32The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Note that it is recommended that the
timing belt be renewed - see Section 10.
12 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
5
Removal
1Relieve the fuel pressure on all fuel injection
engines (see Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery. Where the battery is located in the
engine compartment, the battery may be
removed completely (see Chapter 5).
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
3Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
4Disconnect the wiring from the distributor
(mark all wiring for position first, if necessary),
and the HT lead from the coil (see Chapter 5).
5Disconnect the lead from the coolant
temperature sender unit (see Chapter 3).
6Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail or
carburettor as applicable (see Chapter 4).
7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 3).
8Clearly label then disconnect all other
hoses from the throttle body, intake manifold,
carburettor and cylinder head, as applicable.
9Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage or carburettor (see Chapter 4).
10Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the
cylinder head (see Section 6). Depending on
the engine type, It may not be necessary to
disconnect the manifold from the exhaust
pipe; however, on right-hand-drive models,
the steering column intermediate shaft may
not allow the manifold to clear the studs on
the cylinder head.
11Remove or disconnect any remaining
hoses or lines from the intake manifold,
including the ignition advance vacuum line(s),
and the coolant and heater hoses.
12On early carburettor models, disconnect
the wiring from the alternator and starter
motor.13Remove the intake manifold (see Sec-
tion 5). Do not dismantle or remove any fuel
injection system components unless it is
absolutely necessary.
14Remove the fan drivebelt and fan (see
Chapter 3).
15Remove the valve cover and gasket (see
Section 4). Remove the semi-circular rubber
seal from the front of the cylinder head, where
this is not incorporated in the valve cover
gasket.
16Set No 1 piston at Top Dead Centre on
the compression stroke (see Section 3).
17Remove the timing chain or belt (see
Section 8 or 10). Note:If you want to save
time by not removing and refitting the timing
belt or chain and re-timing the engine, you can
unfasten the camshaft sprocket and suspend
it out of the way - with the belt or chain still
attached - by a piece of rope. Be sure the
rope keeps firm tension on the belt or chain,
so it won’t become disengaged from any of
the sprockets.
18Loosen the cylinder head bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, in the reverse of the
tightening sequence shown (see illustrations
12.30a, 12.30b, 12.30c or 12.30d). Do
notdismantle or remove the rocker arm
assembly at this time on M10, M20 and M30
engines.
19Remove the cylinder head by lifting it
straight up and off the engine block. Do not
prise between the cylinder head and the
engine block, as damage to the gasket sealing
surfaces may result. Instead, use a blunt bar
positioned in an intake port to gently prise the
head loose.
20Remove any remaining external
components from the head to allow for
thorough cleaning and inspection. See
Chapter 2B for cylinder head servicing
procedures. On the M40 engine, remove the
rubber O-ring from the groove in the top of the
oil pump/front end cover housing.
Refitting
21The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and block must be perfectly clean when the
head is refitted.
22Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with a suitable solvent. If
there’s oil on the mating surfaces when the
head is refitted, the gasket may not seal
correctly, and leaks could develop. When
working on the block, stuff the cylinders with
clean rags to keep out debris. Use a vacuum
cleaner to remove material that falls into the
cylinders.
23Check the block and head mating
surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other
damage. If the damage is slight, it can be
removed with a file; if it’s excessive,
machining may be the only alternative.
24Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the head bolt holes, then clean the
holes with compressed air - make sure that
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•13
2A

nothing (including oil, water, etc) remains in
the holes (see illustration).
25BMW recommend head bolts are renewed,
but if the old ones are re-used, mount each bolt
in a vice, and run a die down the threads to
remove corrosion and restore the threads. Dirt,
corrosion, sealant and damaged threads will
affect torque readings (see illustration). If the
bolts or their threads are damaged, do not re-
use the bolts - fit a new set.
26Refit any components removed from the
head prior to cleaning and inspection. On the
M40 engine, locate a new rubber O-ring in the
groove in the top of the oil pump/front end
cover housing (see illustration).
27Make sure the gasket sealing surfaces ofthe engine block and cylinder head are clean
and oil-free. Lay the head gasket in place on
the block, with the manufacturer’s stamped
mark facing up (it usually says “UP,” “OBEN”
or something similar). Use the dowel pins in the
top of the block to properly locate the gasket.
28Carefully set the cylinder head in place
on the block. Use the dowel pins to properly
align it. Where the engine is tilted slightly (ie
M40 engine) you may find it helpful to fit
guide studs to ensure correct positioning of
the cylinder head on the block. Use two old
head bolts, one screwed into each end of
the block. Cut the heads off the bolts, and
use a hacksaw to cut slots in the tops
of the bolts so they can be removed oncethe cylinder head is in position (see
illustration).
29Fit the cylinder head bolts (see
illustration).
30Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in the
sequence shown, to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications (see illustrations).
Note that on some engines the final stage of
tightening takes place after the engine has
been run.
31The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Set the valve clearances on M10,
M20 and M30 engines (see Chapter 1) before
refitting the valve cover (check them again
after the engine is warmed-up). Run the
engine and check for leaks.
2A•14 In-car engine repair procedures
12.30d Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING
sequence for M40 (four-cylinder) engines12.30c Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING
sequence for M30 (six-cylinder) engines12.30b Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING
sequence for M20 (six-cylinder) engines
12.30a Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING
sequence for M10 (four-cylinder) engines12.29 Inserting a cylinder head bolt
(M40 engine)12.28 Lowering the cylinder head onto the
block (M40 engine)
12.26 Fitting a new rubber O-ring in the
groove in the top of the oil pump/front end
cover on the M40 engine12.25 A die should be used to remove
sealant and corrosion from the head bolt
threads prior to installation12.24 The cylinder head bolt holes should
be cleaned and restored with a tap (be
sure to remove debris from the holes after
this is done)

the crankshaft flange (see illustration). Be
careful - the flywheel is heavy.
5To refit the flywheel/driveplate on the
crankshaft, use a liquid thread-locking
compound on the bolts, and tighten them
gradually, using a criss-cross pattern, to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
6The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
16 Crankshaft rear oil seal-
renewal
3
1Remove the flywheel or driveplate (see
Section 15).
2Remove the bolts and/or nuts attaching the
seal retainer to the engine block. Be sure to
remove the two bolts (from underneath)
connecting the rear of the sump to the bottom
of the seal retainer (see illustration).
3Run a sharp, thin knife between the sump
gasket and the seal retainer, cutting the
retainer free from the gasket. Be very careful
not to damage the gasket, and keep it clean
so you can re-use it.
4Break the seal retainer-to-block gasket seal
by tapping the retainer with a plastic mallet or
block of wood and hammer. Do not prise
between the retainer and the engine block, as
damage to the gasket sealing surfaces will
result.
5Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the retainer and engine block. Gasket removal
solvents are available at car accessory shops,
and may prove helpful. After all gasket
material has been removed, the gasket
surfaces can be degreased by wiping them
with a rag dampened with a suitable solvent.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean.
6Support the retainer on two blocks of
wood, and drive out the seal from behind with
a hammer and screwdriver (see illustration).Be very careful not to damage the seal bore in
the process.
7Coat the outside diameter and lip of the
new seal with multi-purpose grease, and drive
the seal into the retainer with a hammer and a
block of wood (see illustration).
8Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates with
the seal retainer. Apply extra beads of RTV
sealant to the edges where the gasket meets
the engine block. Note:If the sump gasket is
damaged, instead of fitting a whole new
gasket, you might try trimming the rear portion
of the gasket off at the point where it meets the
engine block, then trim off the rear portion of a
new sump gasket so it’s exactly the same size.
Cover the exposed inside area of the sump
with a rag, then clean all traces of old gasket
material off the area where the gasket was
removed. Attach the new gasket piece to the
sump with contact-cement-type gasket
adhesive, then apply RTV-type sealant as
described at the beginning of this paragraph.
9Coat both sides of the new retainer gasket
with RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the
gasket to the seal retainer. Fit the seal retainer
to the rear of the engine, then refit the bolts
and tighten them evenly to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Work from bolt-
to-bolt in a criss-cross pattern to be sure
they’re tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the
retainer-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-retainer bolts.Note 2:After applying
RTV-type sealant, reassembly must becompleted in about 10 minutes so the RTV
won’t prematurely harden.
10Refit the flywheel/driveplate (see Sec-
tion 15).
11Refit the transmission (on vehicles with
manual transmission, see Chapter 7A; on
vehicles with automatic transmission, see
Chapter 7B).
17 Engine mountings-
check and renewal
1
1Engine mountings seldom require attention,
but broken or deteriorated mountings should
be renewed immediately, or the added strain
placed on the driveline components may
cause damage or wear.
Check
2During the check, the engine must be
raised slightly to remove its weight from the
mounts.
3Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands, then position a jack under the
engine sump. Place a large block of wood
between the jack head and the sump, then
carefully raise the engine just enough to take
its weight off the mounts.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it’s supported only by a
jack!
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•19
16.6 After removing the retainer from the
block, support it on two wood blocks, and
drive out the old seal with a punch and
hammer16.2 Remove the six bolts from the rear of
the block and the two from underneath at
the sump15.4 Using a socket and ratchet, remove
the eight bolts that hold the flywheel/
driveplate to the crankshaft flange - prevent
the flywheel/driveplate from turning by
locking the ring gear with a lever
17.4 As engine mountings wear or age,
they should be inspected for cracking or
separation from their metal plates
16.7 Drive the new seal into the retainer
with a block of wood, or a section of pipe,
if you have one large enough - make sure
the seal enters the retainer bore squarely
2A

4Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked (see illustration), hardened or
separated from the metal plates. Sometimes
the rubber will split right down the centre.
5Check for relative movement between the
mounting plates and the engine or frame (use
a large screwdriver or lever to attempt to
move the mountings). If movement is noted,
lower the engine and tighten the mounting
nuts or bolts (see illustration). Rubber
preservative should be applied to the
mountings, to slow deterioration.
6On models with the M40 engine, check the
condition of the dampers on each mounting
by disconnecting them and attempting tocompress and expand them (see illustration).
If there is very little resistance to movement,
the dampers should be renewed.
Renewal
7If the dampers on the M40 engine are to be
renewed, simply unscrew the bolts, then fit
the new dampers and tighten the bolts.
8To renew the mountings, disconnect the
battery negative cable, then raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands if you
haven’t already done so.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation codebefore disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
9Support the engine as described in
paragraph 3.
10Remove the large bracket-to-mounting
nut (see illustration). Raise the engine
slightly, then remove the lower mounting-to-
frame bolts/nuts and detach the mounting
11Refitting of the mountings is the reverse of
removal. Use thread-locking compound on
the mounting bolts/nuts, and be sure to
tighten them securely.
2A•20 In-car engine repair procedures
17.10 To remove an engine mounting, first
remove the stud nut (arrowed) -
M30 engine shown, others similar17.6 Engine mounting and damper on the
M40 engine17.5 Lever gently between the block and
the engine mounting attachment point
(arrowed) - if there is movement, tighten
the bolts