1983 BMW 3 SERIES Gear

0•8Roadside Repairs
Jacking and wheel
changing
The jack supplied with the vehicle should
be used only for raising the vehicle when
changing a tyre or placing axle stands under
the frame.
Warning:Never crawl under the
vehicle or start the engine when
this jack is being used as the
only means of support.
When changing a wheel, the vehicle should
be on level ground, with the handbrake firmly
applied, and the wheels chocked. Select
reverse gear (manual transmission) or Park
(automatic transmission). Prise off the hub
cap (if equipped) using the tapered end of the
wheel brace. Loosen the wheel bolts half a
turn, leaving them in place until the wheel is
raised off the ground.
Position the head of the jack under the side
of the vehicle, making sure it engages with thepocket made for this purpose (just behind the
front wheel, or forward of the rear wheel).
Engage the wheel brace handle and turn it
clockwise until the wheel is raised off the
ground. Unscrew the bolts, remove the wheel
and fit the spare.
Refit the wheel bolts and tighten them
finger-tight. Lower the vehicle by turning the
wheel brace anti-clockwise. Remove the jack
and tighten the bolts in a diagonal pattern to
the torque listed in the Chapter 1
Specifications. If a torque wrench is not
available, have the torque checked by a BMW
dealer or tyre fitting specialist as soon as
possible. Refit the hubcap.
Towing
Vehicles with manual transmission can be
towed with all four wheels on the ground, if
necessary. Automatic transmission-equipped
vehicles can only be towed with all fourwheels on the ground providing that the
speed does not exceed 35 mph and the
distance is not over 50 miles, otherwise
transmission damage can result. For
preference, regardless of transmission type,
the vehicle should be towed with the driven
(rear) wheels off the ground.
Proper towing equipment, specifically
designed for the purpose, should be used,
and should be attached to the main structural
members of the vehicle, not to the bumpers or
bumper brackets. Sling-type towing
equipment must notbe used on these
vehicles.
Safety is a major consideration while
towing. The handbrake should be released,
and the transmission should be in neutral. The
steering must be unlocked (ignition switch
turned to position “1”). Remember that
power-assisted steering (where fitted) and the
brake servo will not work with the engine
switched off.
Jacking, towing and wheel changing

0•10Roadside Repairs
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid Power steering fluidOil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

Tyre pressures (cold) - bars (psi)Front Rear
3-Series, E30
316 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 (28) 2.1 (30)
316i
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.1 (30)
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.2 (32)
318i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 (26) 1.9 (28)
320i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 (28) 2.0 (29)
325i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.3 (33)
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”)
518 and 518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.0 (29)
525i and 528i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.2 (32)
535i and M535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 (33) 2.5 (36)
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”)
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.0 (29)
520i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.1 (30)
525i, 530i and 535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.3 (33)
Torque wrench settingsNm
Automatic transmission sump bolts
Three-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 9
Four-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7
Spark plugs
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30
Except M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 33
Oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 33
Wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Lubricant type/specification
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscositySAE 10W/40 to 20W/50, to API SG
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors
Manual transmission* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 to API-GL4, or single-grade mineral-based
engine oil, viscosity SAE 20, 30 or 40 to API-SG
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron ll type ATF
Final drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BMW-approved hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90**
Brake and clutch hydraulic systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic brake fluid to SAE J 1703 or DOT 4
Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron ll type ATF
* E34 520i & 525i with air conditioning, E34 530i & 535i - Dexron II type ATF)
** Only available in bulk; refer to your BMW dealer
Capacities*
1•3
1
Engine oil
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.3 litres
M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres
Cooling system
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5 litres
M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.0 litres
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres
Fuel tank
3-Series, E30
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 litres (early),
64 litres (later)
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 litres (early),
70 litres (later)
5-Series
E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 litres
E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 litresManual transmission
ZF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litres
Getrag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.5 litres
Automatic transmission (refill)
3-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres
4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres
Final drive capacity (drain and refill)
3-Series, E30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 litres
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 litres
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 litres
*All capacities approximate
Servicing Specifications

Caution: Do not overfill the
reservoir. If too much fluid is
added, remove the excess with a
clean syringe. Refit the cap.
7If frequent topping-up is needed, check the
power steering hoses and connections for
leaks and wear (see Section 10).
8Check the condition and tension of the
drivebelt (see Section 11).
8 Automatic transmission fluid
level check
1
Caution: The use of transmission
fluid other than the type listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications
could result in transmission
malfunctions or failure.
1The automatic transmission fluid should be
carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead
to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling
can cause foaming and loss of fluid. Either
condition can cause transmission damage.
2Since transmission fluid expands as it heats
up, the fluid level should only be checked
when the transmission is warm (at normal
operating temperature). If the vehicle has just
been driven over 20 miles (32 km), the
transmission can be considered warm. You
can also check the fluid level when the
transmission is cold. If the vehicle has not
been driven for over five hours and the fluid is
about room temperature (20°C), the
transmission is cold. However, the fluid level
is normally checked with the transmission
warm, to ensure accurate results.
Caution: If the vehicle has just
been driven for a long time at
high speed or in city traffic, in hot
weather, or if it has been pulling
a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading
cannot be obtained. Allow the trans-
mission to cool down for about 30 minutes.
3Immediately after driving the vehicle, park it
on a level surface, apply the handbrake and
start the engine. While the engine is idling,
depress the brake pedal and move theselector lever through all the gear ranges,
beginning and ending in Park.
4The automatic transmission dipstick tube is
located in the left rear corner of the engine
compartment.
5With the engine still idling, pull the dipstick
out of the tube (see illustration), wipe it off
with a clean rag, push it all the way back into
the tube and withdraw it again, then note the
fluid level.
6The level should be between the two marks
(see illustration). If the level is low, add the
specified automatic transmission fluid through
the dipstick tube - use a clean funnel,
preferably equipped with a fine mesh filter, to
prevent spills.
Caution: Be careful not to
introduce dirt into the
transmission when topping up.
7Add just enough of the recommended fluid
to fill the transmission to the proper level. It
takes about half a litre to raise the level from
the low mark to the high mark when the fluid
is hot, so add the fluid a little at a time, and
keep checking the level until it’s correct.
8The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid is
black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it
smells burned, it should be changed (see
Section 28). If you are in doubt about its
condition, purchase some new fluid, and
compare the two for colour and smell.
9 Tyre rotation
1
1The tyres can be rotated at the specified
intervals, or whenever uneven wear is noticed.
However, bear in mind that if rotation
succeeds in making all the tyres wear evenly,
you will eventually have to renew all four at
once. Since the vehicle will be raised and the
wheels removed anyway, check the brakes
also (see Section 26). Note: Even if you don’t
rotate the tyres, at least check the wheel bolt
tightness.
2It is recommended that the tyres be rotatedin a specific pattern (see illustration)so that
their direction of rotation remains the same.
3Refer to the information in “Jacking and
towing”at the front of this manual for the
proper procedure to follow when raising the
vehicle and changing a tyre.
4The vehicle must be raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands to get all four tyres
off the ground. Make sure the vehicle is safely
supported!
5After the rotation procedure is finished,
check and adjust the tyre pressures as
necessary, and be sure to check the wheel
bolt tightness.
10 Underbonnet hose check
and renewal
3
Warning: Renewal of air
conditioning hoses must be left
to a dealer service department or
air conditioning specialist having
the equipment to depressurise the system
safely. Never disconnect air conditioning
hoses or components until the system has
been depressurised.
General
1High temperatures under the bonnet can
cause deterioration of the rubber and plastic
hoses used for various systems. Periodic
inspection should be made for cracks, loose
clamps, material hardening, and leaks.
2Information specific to the cooling system
can be found in Section 22, while the braking
system is covered in Section 26.
3Most (but not all) hoses are secured with
clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be
sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing
the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make
sure the hose has not expanded and/or
hardened where it slips over the fitting,
allowing it to leak.
Vacuum hoses
4It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be colour-coded or identified by coloured
1•13
9.2 The tyre rotation pattern for these
models8.6 With the fluid hot, the level should be
kept between the two dipstick notches,
preferably near the upper one8.5 The automatic transmission fluid
dipstick (arrowed) is located near the
bulkhead on the left side of the engine
compartment
1
Every 6000 miles

no cause for concern. Make sure that any fluid
noted is from the struts/shocks, and not from
any other source. If leakage is noted, renew
the struts or shock absorbers in axle pairs (or
as a full set).
7Check the struts/shock absorbers to be
sure that they are securely mounted and
undamaged. Check the upper mountings for
damage and wear. If damage or wear is
noted, renew the struts or shock absorbers.
8If the struts or shock absorbers must be
renewed, refer to Chapter 10 for the
procedure. Always renew both units on the
same axle, or the safety of the vehicle may be
compromised. If possible, renew all four as a
set.
Steering and suspension check
9Inspect the steering system components
for damage and distortion. Look for leaks and
damaged seals, boots and fittings.
10Clean the lower end of the steering
knuckle. Have an assistant grasp the lower
edge of the tyre and move the wheel in and
out, while you look for movement at the
steering knuckle-to-axle arm balljoints.
Inspect the balljoint boots for tears (see
illustration). If there is any movement, or the
boots are torn or leaking, the balljoint(s) must
be renewed.
11Grasp each front tyre at the front and rear
edges, push in at the front, pull out at the rear
and feel for play in the steering linkage. If any
free play is noted, check the steering gear
mountings and the track rod balljoints for
looseness. If the steering gear mountings are
loose, tighten them. If the track rods are
loose, the balljoints may be worn (check to
make sure the nuts are tight). Additional
steering and suspension system information
can be found in Chapter 10.
25 Driveshaft gaiter check
1
1The driveshaft gaiters are very important
because they prevent dirt, water and foreign
material from entering and damaging the
constant velocity (CV) joints. External oil and
grease contamination can cause the gaitermaterial to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water.
2Inspect the gaiters for tears and cracks, as
well as for loose clamps (see illustration). If
there is any evidence of cracks or leaking
lubricant, the gaiter must be renewed (see
Chapter 8).
26 Brake system check
2
Warning: Dust produced by lining
wear and deposited on brake
components may contain
asbestos, which is hazardous to
your health. Do not blow it out with
compressed air, and don’t inhale it! Do not
use petroleum-based solvents to remove
the dust. Brake system cleaner or
methylated spirit should be used to flush
the dust into a drain pan. After the brake
components are wiped with a damp rag,
dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and the
drain pan contents into a covered and
labelled container. Try to use asbestos-
free new parts whenever possible.
Note:In addition to the specified intervals, the
brake system should be inspected each time
the wheels are removed or a malfunction is
indicated. Because of the obvious safety con-
siderations, the following brake system checks
are some of the most important maintenance
procedures you can perform on your vehicle.
Symptoms of brake system
problems
1The disc brakes have built-in electrical wear
indicators which cause a warning light on the
dash to come on when they’re worn to the
renewal point. When the light comes on,
renew the pads immediately, or expensive
damage to the brake discs could result.
2Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) Vehicle pulls to one side when the brake
pedal is depressed
b) Brakes make squealing or dragging noises
when applied
c) Brake pedal travel excessived) Brake pedal pulsates (normal if ABS is
working)
e) Brake fluid leaks (usually on the inner side
of the tyre or wheel)
3If any of these conditions are noted, inspect
the brake system immediately.
Brake lines and hoses
Note: Steel brake pipes are used throughout
the brake system, with the exception of
flexible, reinforced hoses at the front wheels
and as connectors at the rear axle. Periodic
inspection of all these lines is very important.
4Park the vehicle on level ground, and
switch off the engine. Remove the wheel
covers. Loosen, but do not remove, the bolts
on all four wheels.
5Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6Remove the wheels (see “Jacking and
towing” at the front of this book, or refer to
your owner’s handbook, if necessary).
7Check all brake lines and hoses for cracks,
chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters, and
distortion. Check the brake hoses at front and
rear of the vehicle for softening, cracks,
bulging, or wear from rubbing on other
components. Check all threaded fittings for
leaks, and make sure the brake hose
mounting bolts and clips are secure.
8If leaks or damage are discovered, they
must be repaired immediately. Refer to
Chapter 9 for detailed brake system repair
procedures.
Disc brakes
9If it hasn’t already been done, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the front wheels.
10The disc brake calipers, containing the
pads, are now visible. Each caliper has an
outer and an inner pad - all pads should be
checked.
11Note the pad thickness by looking
through the inspection hole in the caliper (see
illustration). If the lining material is 2.0 mm
thick or less, or if it is tapered from end to
end, the pads should be renewed (see
Chapter 9). Keep in mind that the lining
1•22
26.11 Look through the caliper inspection
window to inspect the brake pads - the
pad lining which rubs against the disc can
also be inspected by looking through each
end of the caliper25.2 Gently probe the driveshaft boots to
check for cracks24.10 Inspect the balljoint boots for tears
(arrowed)
Every 12 000 miles

7Detach the sump from the transmission and
lower it, being careful not to spill the
remaining fluid (see illustration).
8Carefully clean the sump-to-transmission
contact surface.
9Pour the fluid from the sump into a suitable
container, then clean the sump with solvent
and dry it with compressed air. Be sure to
clean any metal filings from the magnet, if
applicable.
10Remove the filter from inside the
transmission (see illustrations).
11Fit the O-ring and a new filter, being sure
to tighten the bolts securely.
12Make sure that the sump gasket contact
surfaces are clean, then fit the new gasket.
Offer the sump up to the transmission, and
refit the brackets and bolts. Working aroundthe sump, tighten each bolt a little at a time
until the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations is reached. Don’t overtighten the
bolts! Connect the dipstick tube, and tighten
the collar securely.
13Lower the vehicle, and add the specified
amount of fluid through the filler tube (see
Section 8).
14With the transmission in Park and the
handbrake applied, run the engine at fast idle,
but don’t race it.
15Move the gear selector through each
position, and back to Park. Check the fluid
level.
16Check under the vehicle for leaks after the
first few trips.
29 Cooling system -draining,
flushing and refilling
1
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin,
or with the painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze
is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave
antifreeze lying around in an open container
or in puddles on the floor; children and pets
are attracted by its sweet smell, and may
drink it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Local
collection centres may exist to see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled. This will restore
the effectiveness of the antifreeze mixture and
prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which
can impair the performance of the cooling
system and cause engine damage. When the
cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the
radiator cap should be checked and renewed
if necessary.
Draining
2If the vehicle has just been driven, wait
several hours to allow the engine to cool down
before beginning this procedure.
3Once the engine is completely cool, remove
the expansion tank cap or radiator cap. If the
cap must be removed while the engine is still
warm, unscrew it slowly, and take adequate
precautions to avoid scalding.
4Move a large container under the radiator to
catch the coolant. Where a drain plug is fitted,
unscrew it (a pair of pliers or screwdriver may
be required to turn it, depending on the
model) (see illustration). Where there is no
drain plug, it will be necessary to disconnect
the bottom hose from the radiator.
5While the coolant is draining, check the
condition of the radiator hoses, heater hoses
and clamps (see Section 21 if necessary).
6Renew any damaged clamps or hoses (see
Chapter 3 for detailed renewal procedures).
1•24
28.10c Remove the O-ring from the
transmission. If it is in good condition,
clean it and transfer it to the new fluid
filter; otherwise, renew it
28.10b . . . then remove the fluid filter from
the transmission28.10a Use a Torx key to remove the filter
bolts . . .
28.7 Lower the sump from the
transmission
28.6 Use a socket and extension to
remove the bolts and brackets28.5b Detach the tube and let the fluid
drain28.5a Unscrew the dipstick tube collar
Every 24 000 miles

cover, remove the vibration damper/hub by
locking the crankshaft in position and
loosening the large centre bolt. Since the bolt
is on very tight, you’ll need to use an
extension bar and socket to break it loose. On
M30 engines, BMW recommends using a
3/4-inch drive socket and extension bar, since
the bolt is extremely tight on these engines.
To lock the crankshaft in place while the bolt
is being loosened, use BMW special tool
No. 11 2 100 (or equivalent).
9On the M10 engine, if the special tool listed
in the previous paragraph is not available, you
may try locking the crankshaft by removing
the flywheel/driveplate inspection cover and
jamming a wide-bladed screwdriver into the
ring gear teeth. On the M30 engine, since the
bolt is so extremely tight, we don’t
recommend substitute methods. Use the
correct tool. On the M10 engine, after the
centre bolt is removed, it will probably be
necessary to use a jaw-type puller to pull the
vibration damper off the crankshaft. Position
the jaws behind the inner pulley groove, and
tighten the puller centre bolt very slowly,
checking the pulley to make sure it does not
get bent or otherwise damaged by the puller.
10Unscrew the plug and remove the timing
chain tensioner spring (see illustration). The
tensioner plunger may come out with the
spring. If not, reach down into the hole where
the tensioner spring was, and remove the
plunger. To check the plunger for proper
operation, see Section 8.
Caution: The spring is under
tension, and this could cause the
plug to be ejected from its hole with
considerable force. Hold the
tensioner plug securely as it’s beingunscrewed, and release the spring tension
slowly.
11On the M30 engine, if you’re removing the
upper timing cover, unbolt the thermostat cover
and remove the thermostat (see Chapter 3).
12On the M30 engine, if you’re removing the
lower timing cover, loosen the alternator
mounting bolts, and swing the alternator to
one side. Remove the front lower mounting
bracket bolt, and loosen the other bolts. Also
unbolt the power steering pump mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
13Remove the bolts and nuts securing the
upper timing chain cover to the engine block,
and remove the cover. Draw a simple diagram
showing the location of the bolts, so they can
be returned to the same holes from which
they’re removed. Remove the upper timing
chain cover. If it sticks to the engine block, tap
it gently with a rubber mallet, or place a piece
of wood against the cover and hit the wood
with a hammer. On the M30 engine fitted with
the L-Jetronic fuel system, remove the
distributor driveshaft.
14Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
lower timing chain cover to the engine block.
Be sure to remove the three bolts from
underneath that connect the front of the sump
to the bottom of the front cover (see
illustration). Loosen the remaining sump bolts.
15Run a sharp, thin knife between the sump
gasket and lower timing chain cover, cutting
the cover free from the gasket. Be very careful
not to damage or dirty the gasket, so you can
re-use it.
16Break the lower timing chain cover-to-
block gasket seal by tapping the cover with a
rubber mallet, or with a hammer and block of
wood. Do not prise between the cover and the
engine block, as damage to the gasket sealing
surfaces will result.
17Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the covers and engine block.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may prove
helpful. After all gasket material has beenremoved, the gasket surfaces can be
degreased by wiping them with a rag
dampened with a suitable solvent.Refitting
18Renew the front oil seals (see Section 11).
It’s not wise to take a chance on an old seal,
since renewal with the covers removed is very
easy. Be sure to apply a little oil to the front oil
seal lips.
19Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates
with the lower timing chain cover. Apply extra
beads of RTV sealant to the edges where the
gasket meets the engine block. Note:If the
sump gasket is damaged, instead of fitting a
whole new gasket, you might try trimming the
front portion of the gasket off at the point
where it meets the engine block, then trim off
the front portion of a new sump gasket so it’s
exactly the same size. Cover the exposed
inside area of the sump with a rag, then clean
all traces of old gasket material off the area
where the gasket was removed. Attach the
new gasket piece to the sump with contact-
cement-type gasket adhesive, then apply
RTV-type sealant as described at the
beginning of this paragraph.
20Coat both sides of the new gasket with
RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the
lower timing chain cover to the front of the
engine. Refit the bolts, and tighten them
evenly to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Work from bolt-to-bolt in a
criss-cross pattern to be sure they’re
tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the lower
cover-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-cover bolts. If the gasket protrudes
above the cover-to-block joint, or bunches up
at the cover-to-sump joint, trim the gasket so
it fits correctly.Note 2:After applying RTV-
type sealant, reassembly must be completed
in about 10 minutes so the RTV won’t
prematurely harden.
21Refit the upper timing chain cover in the
same way as the lower cover. If the gasket
protrudes beyond the top of the cover and the
engine block, trim off the excess with a razor
blade.
22Refitting is otherwise the reverse of
removal.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•7
7.14 From underneath the vehicle, remove
the three bolts (arrowed) that connect the
cover and the sump7.10 Unscrew the plug from the timing
chain cover, and remove the tensioner
spring and plunger7.7 Place a socket and ratchet on the
centre bolt to keep the pulley stationary,
and use another socket and ratchet to
remove the smaller bolts attaching the
pulley to the vibration damper
2A
If the pulley seems to be
sticking on the crankshaft, it
may help to spray the hub
area with some penetrating
oil, and to gently tap on the hub area
with a hammer.

alignment mark on the camshaft sprocket and
rear timing cover to ensure correct refitting.
6On the M20 engine, loosen the two
tensioner roller retaining bolts a little, and
push the tensioner towards the water pump
(see illustration). With the timing belt tension
relieved, re-tighten the retaining bolt.
7On the M40 engine, loosen the tensioner
retaining nut, and use an Allen key to rotate
the tensioner clockwise. This will relieve the
tension of the timing belt. Tighten the
retaining nut to hold the tensioner in its free
position.
8If the same belt is to be refitted, mark it with
an arrow indicating direction of rotation.
Caution: It is not advisable to
refit a timing belt which has been
removed unless it is virtually
new. On the M40 engine, BMW
recommend that the timing belt is
renewed every time the tensioner roller is
released.
9Remove the timing belt by slipping it off the
roller(s) and the other sprockets (see
illustrations).
10If it’s necessary to remove the camshaft
or the intermediate shaft sprocket, remove the
sprocket bolt while holding the sprocket to
prevent it from moving. To hold the sprocket,
wrap it with a piece of an old timing belt
(toothed side engaging the sprocket teeth) ora piece of leather, then hold the sprocket
using a strap spanner. If a strap spanner is not
available, clamp the ends of the piece of belt
or leather tightly together with a pair of grips.
Before loosening the bolt, make sure you have
the necessary tool for positioning the
camshaft as described in the following
paragraph (see illustration).
Caution: Do not use the timing
belt you’re planning to refit to
hold the sprocket. Also, be sure
to hold the camshaft sprocket
very steady, because if it moves more than
a few degrees, the valves could hit the
pistons.
Note: On the M40 engine, the sprocket is not
directly located on the camshaft with a key, as
the groove in the end of the camshaft allows
the sprocket to move several degrees in either
direction. The retaining bolt locks the sprocket
onto a taper after positioning the camshaft
with a special tool.
11The BMW tool for positioning the camshaft
on the M40 engine consists of a metal plate
which locates over the square lug near the No
1 cylinder lobes on the camshaft - the valve
cover must be removed first (see
illustrations). If the BMW tool cannot be
obtained, a home-made tool should be
fabricated out of metal plate. The tool must be
made to hold the square lug on the camshaft
at right-angles to the upper face of the cylinder
head (ie the contact face of the valve cover).
12If it’s necessary to remove the crankshaft
sprocket, remove the crankshaft hub centre
bolt while holding the crankshaft steady.
Note:The removal of the crankshaft hub
mounting bolt requires a heavy-duty holding
device because of the high torque used to
tighten the bolt. BMW has a special tool,
numbered 112150 (M20 engines) or 112170
(M40 engines), for this purpose. If this tool
cannot be bought or borrowed, check with a
tool dealer or motor factors for a tool capable
of doing the job. Note that the tool number
112170 bolts on the rear of the cylinder head
and engages with the flywheel ring gear, so it
will only be possible to use this tool if the
gearbox has been removed, or if the engine is
out of the vehicle (see illustrations). On
2A•10 In-car engine repair procedures
10.12a Home-made tool for holding the
crankshaft stationary while the crankshaft
pulley bolt is being loosened (engine
removed for clarity)
10.11b The BMW camshaft-holding tool in
position on the M40 engine10.11a The BMW tool for holding the
camshaft in the TDC position on
M40 engines
10.10 Removing the camshaft sprocket on
the M40 engine
10.9b Removing the timing belt from the
camshaft sprocket on the M40 engine
10.9a When removing the timing belt on
models with a two-piece crankshaft hub,
it’s a tight fit to remove it around the hub,
but it’s a lot easier than removing the
crankshaft hub assembly, which is secured
by a very tight bolt10.6 Loosen the idler pulley bolts
(arrowed) to relieve the tension on the
timing belt so it can be removed