1982 FORD SIERRA torque

16Where applicable, refit the timing belt
tensioner and coolant pump, locate the timing
belt backplate over the studs, then fit the
camshaft sprocket and the distributor rotor
shaft.
17The camshaft sprocket bolt must be
coated with sealant before installation. The
manufacturers recommend Loctite 74 or 274,
or Omnifit 30M blue. With the sealant applied,
insert the bolt, hold the camshaft sprocket
stationary as during removal, and tighten the
bolt to the specified torque (see illustration).
18Refit the thrustwasher with the convex
side facing forwards, and refit the Woodruff
key, then refit the crankshaft sprocket with the
“FRONT” mark facing forwards.
19Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
sprocket, but do not engage it with the other
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt,
and if the old belt is being refitted, observe the
previously noted running direction.20Make sure that the TDC pointer on the
camshaft sprocket is still aligned with the dot
on the cylinder head front face.
21Check that the TDC lug on the crankshaft
sprocket is still in line with the notch in the oil
pump flange. If necessary, refit the crankshaft
pulley bolt, if not already done, and using a
socket on the bolt, turn the crankshaft by the
shortest possible route to align the lug and
notch.
22Starting at the crankshaft and working in
an anti-clockwise direction, fit the timing belt
over the camshaft sprocket, round the
tensioner roller, and over the coolant pump
sprocket.
23Slacken the tensioner bolts, allow the
tensioner roller to rest against the belt, then
tighten the tensioner bolts.
24Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, if not
already done, and using a socket on the bolt,
turn the engine through two revolutions in a
clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder
back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º
anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
25The belt tension should now be checked
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21-
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge
readings are:
Used belt - 4 to 6
New belt - 10 to 11
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough
guide is that the belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers using moderate
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
that the belt tension can be checked using the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
26If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner
bolts and move the tensioner to increase or
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
27Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º
BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
Check the belt tension again (see
illustration).28Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
26 and 27 until the belt tension is correct.
29Refit the timing cover and secure with the
two bolts and nuts. Ensure that the earth tag
and the coolant hose clip are fitted under the
relevant nuts (see illustration).
30Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, then
refit the crankshaft pulley and the bolt and
washer. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, preventing the
crankshaft from turning as described in
paragraph 2.
31If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
32If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)Remove the alternator drivebelt.
c)Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, noting their locations; detach the
HT lead bracket from the camshaft cover,
and position the leads out of the way.
d)Move the coolant hoses from the front of
the timing cover, and position them
across the top of the camshaft cover out
of the way.
e)If desired for improved access, remove
the fan shroud and the cooling fan
assembly, although this is not essential.
33Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to
30 inclusive, noting the following differences
for the 1.6 litre engine (see illustrations).
a)There is no sensor toothed disc on the
crankshaft pulley.
b)A two-piece timing cover is fitted,
consisting of upper and lower sections,
each secured by two bolts. No earth tag
or coolant hose clip is fitted to the bolts.
c)The TDC datum on the oil pump takes the
form of a lug instead of a notch.
d)There is no distributor rotor shaft fitted to
the camshaft sprocket bolt.
e)There is no timing belt backplate.
34On completion, if the engine is in the
vehicle, reverse the operations given in
paragraph 32.
2C•12CVH engines
18.17 Tightening the camshaft sprocket
bolt. Hold the sprocket stationary using an
improvised tool with two bolts engaged in
the sprocket holes - 1.8 litre (R2A)
18.27 No 1 cylinder at 60°BTDC for
checking of timing belt tension -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.29 Earth tag (1) and coolant hose clip (2)
locations on timing cover -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.25 Twisting the timing belt to assess its
tension - 1.8 litre (R2A)

original locations with their “stepped” ends
pointing towards the exhaust side of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
17Refit the four cam follower guide retainers
to their original locations with their “stepped”
ends pointing towards the inlet side of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
18Temporarily refit the camshaft sprocket,
and turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
on the sprocket is aligned with the dot on the
cylinder head front face (ie the pointer is at the
12 o’clock position).
19Refit rocker arms Nos 1, 2, 4 and 5
together with their rocker arm guides and
securing bolts, to their original locations (see
illustration). Lubricate the contact faces of
the rocker arms and guides and the valve
stems with hypoid oil, and ensure that the
guides seat correctly in their locations in the
cylinder head (see illustration). Tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque.
20Turn the camshaft through 180º so that
the camshaft sprocket keyway is aligned with
the dot on the cylinder head front face (ie the
TDC pointer on the sprocket is at the 6
o’clock position) (see illustration).
21Repeat the procedure given in paragraph
19 for rocker arms Nos 3, 6, 7 and 8.
22Remove the camshaft sprocket and refit
the cylinder head.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Removal
23Remove the cylinder head. 24Unscrew the securing nuts and remove
the rocker arm guides, rocker arms, and
spacer plates, then lift out the cam followers.
Keep all components in the correct order so
that they can be refitted in their original
locations on reassembly. It is advisable to
store the cam followers upright in an oil bath
until they are to be refitted. Ensure that the
depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the cam
followers.
25Prise out the camshaft oil seal, taking care
not to damage the surface of the camshaft. If
necessary, use self-tapping screws and a
suitable pair of grips to withdraw the seal.
26Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the camshaft thrustplate from the
front of the cylinder head.
27Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
front of the cylinder head, taking care not to
damage the bearings. If necessary, loosely
refit the camshaft sprocket and bolt to aid
removal.
Inspection
28Proceed as described in paragraphs 6 to
9 inclusive.
Refitting
29Commence refitting by lubricating the
camshaft, bearings and thrustplate with
hypoid oil, then carefully insert the camshaft
from the front of the cylinder head, taking care
not to damage the bearings.
30Locate the thrustplate in position in the
cylinder head, then refit the bolts and tighten
them. Note that the oil groove in thethrustplate must face the front of the engine.
31Using a dial test indicator (if available) or
feeler blades, check that the camshaft
endfloat is within the limits given in the
Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate
and re-check. If this does not bring the
endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be
renewed.
32Smear the lip of the new camshaft oil seal
with clean engine oil, then refit the seal using
the camshaft sprocket bolt and a suitable
tool. The tool can be improvised using a metal
tube of suitable diameter and a large washer
or metal disc. Draw the seal into position so
that it rests on the shoulder.
33Lubricate the cam followers with hypoid
oil, then refit them to their original locations in
the cylinder head.
34Before each rocker arm is fitted and its
(new) nut tightened, it is essential to ensure
that the relevant cam follower is positioned at
its lowest point (in contact with the cam base
circle, not the tip of the cam lobe). Turn the
camshaft (by means of the camshaft sprocket
bolt if necessary) as necessary to achieve this.
35Lubricate the tops of the cam followers,
then refit the spacer plates, rocker arms and
rocker arm guides to their original locations.
36Secure the rocker arms using new nuts
tightened to the specified torque, bearing in
mind the point made in paragraph 34.
37Refit the cylinder head.
2C•18CVH engines
23.17 . . . and retainers - 1.8 litre (R2A)
23.20 Camshaft sprocket keyway aligned
with dot on cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)23.19b Lubricate the valve stem contact
faces and refit the rocker arms and guides
- 1.8 litre (R2A)23.19a Rocker arm numbering sequence -
1.8 litre (R2A)
23.16 . . . guides . . .23.15b Refit the cam followers . . .

4Recover the gasket.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the cylinder block, oil pump housing and
crankshaft rear oil seal housing mating faces
at the points shown (see illustration). Note
that the sump must be fitted within ten
minutes of applying the sealing compound.
7Fit a new gasket, ensuring that it engages
correctly in the grooves in the crankshaft rear
oil seal carrier and the oil pump housing (see
illustration).
8Locate the sump on the gasket and loosely
fit the securing bolts.
9Tighten all the bolts slightly to obtain a light
and even gasket preload.
10Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in
the sequence shown (see illustration). Note
that the ten M8 bolts and the four M6 bolts
are tightened to different torques.
11Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Note: The following procedure applies to the
1.6 litre CVH engine. For the 1.8 litre (R6Atype) engine, proceed as described above for
the 1.8 litre (R2A type).
Removal
12Sump removal and refitting is easier if the
engine is removed from the vehicle. However,
if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
follows. If the engine has been removed from
the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 15.
13Remove the clutch.
14Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
15Remove the flywheel and the engine
adapter plate.
16Unscrew the eighteen securing bolts and
withdraw the sump. If the sump is stuck,
carefully tap it sideways to free it. Do not prise
between the mating faces. Recover the
gasket.
17Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
18Apply sealing compound to the joints
between the oil pump and the cylinder block,
and the crankshaft rear oil seal housing and
the cylinder block, as shown (see
illustration).
19Without applying any further sealer, locate
the gasket into the grooves of the oil pump
and the rear oil seal housing. To hold the
gasket in position, studs can be inserted
temporarily in the bolt hole positions circled in
the illustration indicating the bolt tightening
sequence. Make sure that the gasket spacing
pips are seated correctly.20Locate the sump on the gasket, taking
care not to displace the gasket, then loosely
fit the securing bolts. With the sump in
position, where applicable remove the studs
from the bolt holes, and loosely fit the
remaining securing bolts.
21Tighten the bolts to the torque given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter, in two stages, and in the sequence
shown (see illustration).
22Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel.
23If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the
clutch. Refill the engine with oil.
Note: New oil pump and oil pick-up tube
gaskets should be used when refitting.
Removal
1With the engine removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt, crankshaft
sprocket and thrustwasher.
3Remove the sump.
4Unscrew and remove the nut securing the
oil strainer/pick-up tube to No 4 main bearing
cap (see illustration).
5Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the two
bolts securing the oil pick-up tube to the oil
pump, and withdraw the oil strainer/pick-up
tube. Recover the washers and gasket (see
illustration).
28Oil pump - removal and
refitting
2C•20CVH engines
27.6 Apply sealing compound to the areas
shown before fitting the sump gasket -
1.8 litre (R2A)27.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
1.8 litre (R2A)
27.21 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
1.6 litre
Arrow indicates front of engine
27.18 Apply sealing compound at the
points arrowed before refitting the sump -
1.6 litre
A Oil pump/cylinder block joint
B Crankshaft rear oil seal
housing/cylinder block joint
27.7 Ensure that the gasket locates
correctly on the oil pump housing -
1.8 litre (R2A)
28.4 Oil strainer/pick-up tube securing nut
(arrowed) on No 4 main bearing cap

Refitting
6Commence refitting as follows.
7Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and big-
end caps.
8Press the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
them liberally. Note that the lugs must be
adjacent to each other (see illustration).
9Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine oil.
10Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston then
insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest
point, drive the piston carefully into the
cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer,
and at the same time guide the connecting
rod onto the crankpin. The piston must be
fitted with the cut-out in the piston crown (and
the lug on the piston skirt), facing the front of
the engine, with the oil hole in the connecting
rod on the inlet manifold side of the engine
(see illustrations).
11Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end
bearing cap in its previously noted position,
and tighten the nuts or bolts to the specified
torque.
12Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
13Repeat the procedure given in
paragraphs 11 to 12 inclusive on the
remaining pistons.
14Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
15The procedure is as described above,
noting the following points:
a)On the 1.6 litre engine, when refitting a
piston/connecting rod assembly, the
piston must be fitted with the arrow on
the piston crown and the cast pip on the
piston skirt facing the front (timing belt
end) of the engine (see illustration).
b)On the 1.6 litre engine, the big-end
bearing caps locate on dowels in the
connecting rods, and can only be fitted in
one position.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring,
and scratches. Check the connecting rods for
wear or damage.
2The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in
the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
be fitted to the existing connecting rods the
work should be carried out by a Ford dealer
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
the oil hole in the connecting rod must be
located on the right-hand side of the piston
(the cut-out in the piston crown and the lug on
the piston skirt face forwards).
3If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
pistons, expand the old rings over the top ofthe pistons (see illustration). Note that the oil
control ring is in three sections.
4Before fitting the piston rings, clean out the
piston ring grooves using a piece of old piston
ring as a scraper. Be careful not to scratch the
aluminium surface of the pistons. Protect your
fingers - piston ring edges are sharp. Also
probe the groove oil return holes.
5Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of
the piston. The side ring gaps should be 25
mm (1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit
31Pistons and connecting rods
- examination and renovation
2C•22CVH engines
30.8 Bearing shell lug (arrowed) must
engage with groove in big-end cap -
1.8 litre (R2A)30.10b . . . and lug (arrowed) on piston skirt
must face the front of the engine
31.3 Using an old feeler gauge to aid the
fitting of a piston ring - 1.8 litre (R2A)30.15 The arrow (A) and the cast pip (B)
must face the front of the engine - 1.6 litre
30.10d Fitting a piston and connecting rod
into the cylinder bore - 1.8 litre (R2A)30.10c Connecting rod oil hole (arrowed)
must face inlet manifold side of engine -
1.8 litre (R2A)
30.10a Cut-out (arrowed) in piston
crown . . .
The use of two or three old
feeler blades will be helpful
in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves.

the tapered lower compression ring with the
“TOP” mark towards the top of the piston and
the gap 150º from the spreader gap, then fit
the upper compression ring with the gap 150º
on the other side of the spreader gap. Note
that the compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum skin which must not be
damaged.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
6Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 5
inclusive, but note the following differences
for the 1.6 litre engine.
7Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
insert them into the relevant cylinder bore and
use a feeler blade to check that the end gaps
are within the limits given in the Specifications
at the beginning of this Chapter. Check the
end gaps with the ring at the top and the
bottom of the cylinder bore.8Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of
the piston, making sure that the ends do not
overlap. The side ring gaps should be offset
120º either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
tapered lower compression ring with the
“TOP” mark uppermost and the gap 120º
from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
compression ring with the gap 120º on the
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum disulphide skin, which must not
be damaged.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket
and thrustwasher.
2Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3Remove the oil pump and pick-up tube.
4Unscrew the four securing bolts and
remove the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them.
6Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits byinserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrust bearing shell
(see illustration). This will indicate whether a
new thrust bearing shell is required.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
8Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase.
9Extract the bearing shells, keeping them
identified for location.
Refitting
10Commence refitting as follows.
11Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag.
12Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft,
non-fluffy rag.
13If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
location in the crankcase. Note the flanged
thrust bearing shell should be fitted to the
centre bearing location (see illustrations).
14Identify each main bearing cap and place
in order. The number is cast on to the cap and
an arrow is also marked which should point
towards the front of the engine.
15Wipe the cap bearing shell location with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
16Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
bearing cap.
17Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil.
18Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
crankcase (see illustration).
19Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.
20Fit the rear bearing cap, then the centre
bearing cap, but as before do not tighten the
bolts yet.
21Fit the intermediate bearing caps and
securing bolts, noting that the studded bolt
which retains the oil strainer/pick-up tube fits
on the inlet manifold side of No 4 bearing cap.
Again, do not tighten the bolts yet.
22Check that the arrows on the bearing
caps all point towards the front of the engine,
and lightly tighten all the bearing cap bolts,
then finally tighten the bolts in a progressive
manner to the specified torque (see
illustrations).
32Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting
CVH engines 2C•23
2C
32.13b Centre main thrust bearing shell in
cylinder block - 1.8 litre (R2A)
32.22b Tightening a main bearing cap bolt.
Note studded bolt location (arrowed) on
No 4 bearing cap - 1.8 litre (R2A)32.22a The arrows on the bearing caps
must point towards the front of the engine
- 1.8 litre (R2A)32.18 Lowering the crankshaft into the
crankcase - 1.8 litre (R2A)
32.13a Rear main bearing shell in cylinder
block - 1.8 litre (R2A)
32.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat -
1.8 litre (R2A)

23Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
24Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrust bearing cap.
25Lubricate the oil seal lip with clean engine
oil, then carefully fit the crankshaft rear oil seal
housing. Using a straight-edge, ensure that
the bottom face of the oil seal housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder
block before finally tightening the securing
bolts (see illustration).
26Carefully prise the crankshaft front oil seal
from the oil pump housing, then refit the oil
pump, oil strainer/pick-up tube and
crankshaft front oil seal.
27Refit the pistons and connecting rods.
28Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft
sprocket and timing belt.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
29Proceed as described above, noting the
following point:
On the 1.6 litre engine, note that
thrustwashers are used at the centre main
bearing (one each side of the bearing)
instead of a thrust bearing shell to control
crankshaft endfloat. Oversize
thrustwashers are available to
compensate for wear if necessary. The
thrustwashers should be fitted with the oil
grooves visible
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
3Note that undersize bearings may already
have been fitted either in production or by a
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
take them along when buying new ones.
4If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, a new thrust
bearing shell should be fitted to the centre
main bearing.
5An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
crankshaft is located in the main bearings
(and big-end bearings if necessary) and the
Plastigage filament located across the journal
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
filament is checked with a plastic gauge andthe running clearance compared with that
given in the Specifications.
6If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy
grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
7Proceed as described above but note that if
the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearing.
Refer to Section 36, Chapter 2, Part A but
note that the crankcase ventilation baffle
should be removed from its location at the
rear of the cylinder block and cleaned if
necessary (see illustration).
Refer to Section 37, Chapter 2, Part A.
35Initial start-up after overhaul or
major repair
34Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation33Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2C•24CVH engines
32.25 Fit the crankshaft rear oil seal
housing and tighten the securing bolts -
1.8 litre (R2A)34.1 Removing the crankcase ventilation
baffle