1973 OPEL MANTA cooling

EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS6F- 63
2. With the engine “OFF”, observe damper doorposition through snorkel opening. If position of snor-kel makes observation difficult “se the aid of a mir-
ror. At this point damper door should be in such a
position that the heat stove passage is covered (snor-
kel passage open). If not, check for binds in linkage.3. Apply at least nine in. Hg. of vacuum to dia-
phragm assembly through hose disconnected at sen-
sor “nit. This can be done by mouth. Damper door
should completely close snorkel passage whenvacuum is applied. If not, check to see if linkage is
hooked up correctly and for a vacuum leak.
4. With vacuum applied, bend or clamp hose to trapvacuum in diaphragm assembly. Damper door
should remain in position (closed snorkel passage). Ifit does not, there is a vacuum leak in diaphragm
assembly. Replace diaphragm assembly.
Sensor Check
Quick Check of System:
1. Start test with engine cold, air cleaner at a temper-ature below 85 degrees. If the engine has been in
recent “se, allow it to cool.
2. Observe the air door before starting the engine: it
should be closed.3. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Immediately
after starting the engine, the air door should open.
4. As the engine warms up, the air door should start
to close, and the air cleaner should become warm tothe hand.
5. The system is operating normally as described
above. If the air cleaner fails to operate as above or
if correct operation of the air cleaner is still in doubt,
proceed to the thermometer check.
Thermometer Check of Sensor:1. Start test with air cleaner temperature below 85
degrees. IF ENGINE HAS BEEN RUN RE-
CENTLY, ALLOW IT TO COOL DOWN. Whileengine is cooling, remove air cleaner cover and in-
stall a temperature gage such as J- 22973 as close as
possible to
se&r. Keinstall air cleaner cover. Let car
stand idle for
l/2 hour or more before proceeding to
step 2.2. Start the engine. Air door should open immedi-
ately if engine is cool enough. When air door starts
to close (in a few minutes), remove air cleaner cover
and read temperature gage. It must
read 115 degreesplus or minus 20 degrees.
3. If air door does not start to close at temperatureindicated, temperature sensor is defective and must
be replaced.
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION SYSTEM
TestingThe exhaust gas recirculation valve is to be checked
at 12,000 mile intervals “sing the following proce-
dure:1. With engine at operating temperature, connect a
tachometer to engine and note R.P.M. at idle.
2. Disconnect vacuum hose at the intake manifold
that goes to the air cleaner.
3. Disconnect vacuum hose for exhaust gas recircula-tion valve from the throttle valve and connect it to
the intake manifold where vacuum hose to air
cleaner was connected.4. Engine speed should decrease between
100-240R.P.M. from previously noted R.P.M.
5. If the R.P.M. decrease is less than 100 R.P.M., theexhaust gas recirculation valve and fitting going into
the intake manifold must be removed, cleaned, and’
reinstalled.
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION SYSTEM
CleaningClean the exhaust gas recirculation valve and fitting
with a piece of stiff wire removing all exhaust depos-
its.
CAUTION:Do not soak in solvent. After
r.einstafIing the valve and fitting, check op
eration as outlined under “Testing”. If
vahe does not operate properly after a
thorough cleaning, replace it.
MAJOR REPAIR
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OECS UNITSThe damper door is not serviceable. The air cleaner
assembly must be replaced if the damper door is
defective.
R And R Vacuum Motor
1. Remove vacuum
motor retainer spring. See Figure
6F-5.

2. If inspection of contact points indicates excessive
burning, pitting or wear, check condenser and re-
place if necessary.
3. Inspect all connections and wires in the primary
ignition circuit. Correct any abnormal conditions
found.Carburetor1. Clean fuel strainer in fuel pump. To prevent fuel
leakage in pump, disconnect “IN” line from pump
and raise end above fuel level. The in-line fuel filter
should be replaced every 12,000 miles or every 12
months.
2. Check for freedom of choke valve operation and
clean shaft if necessary, with suitable solvent.
3. Inspect throttle cable or linkage bracket and re-
turn spring for wear. With helper depressing acceler-
ator pedal to floor, check for wide open throttle.
Adjust accelerator pedal height so wide open throttle
is obtained when pedal is within
l/2 inch from floor.
Lubricate linkage pivot points with engine oil.
Air CleanerCheck paper element every 6,000 miles and replace
every
24,ooO miles. If a vehicle is operated in dusty
territory, check condition of air cleaner element
more frequently and replace if necessary.
Fan Belt1. Inspect belt for wear, cracks or frayed points.
Replace and/or adjust as necessary. Specified ten-
sion for belt using Gauge J-23600 is 45 lbs.
Cooling System1. Inspect the radiator, water pump, cylinder head
areas and all radiator and heater hose connections
for evidence of engine coolant leaks.
2. Inspect all hoses for deterioration from gas and oil
contact. Correct as required.
Inspection should be made with engine operating at
normal temperature, cooling system completely
filled, temperature control lever fully open and nor-
mal pressure in the system. Normal pressure should
be 13.2 to 15.2 psi.
Engine Lubrication SystemInspect engine for evidence of oil leakage. Correctany abnormal condition with sealastic or new seals
and gaskets.
Battery
1. Inspect battery, battery mount and cables and
check electrolyte level. Proper level should be just
above the cell plates.
CAUTION:Do not over fill.
2. Determine the serviceability of the battery by ap-
plying the 421 Battery Test.
Positive Crankcase VentilationClean crankcase ventilator metered orifice in the in-
take manifold fitting every 6,000 miles. Also all hoses
and fittings should be inspected, cleaned and re-
placed, if necessary.
To clean, remove rubber hose from metered orifice
and apply air pressure to orifice to remove any for-
eign particles that may be trapped.
Valve Lifter AdjustmentRefer to Engine Mechanical and Mounts section for
valve lifter adjustment procedure.
Engine Tune-Up Instrument ChecksThe following instrument checks and adjustments
serve as a final check on engine condition. These
checks may discover some new problems that may
not have been obvious before. The engine is also
given its final adjustments that will assure maximum
performance, reliability, and proper emission con-
trol.
Refer to Electrical Group for checking procedures of
the following:
Cranking Voltage Check
Ignition Timing
Distributor Advance
Ignition Output
Secondary Resistance
Current Output and Voltage Setting
Idle Speed and Mixture AdjustmentsRefer to carburetor section.

HEATER SYSTEM. GT9A- 9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION HEATER VALVE
Removal
1. Remove lower radiator hose and drain and collect
coolant.
2. Disconnect control cable.
3. Loosen heater hose clamps and remove valve from
hoses. See Figure 9A-17.SPECIFICATIONS
EngineRecommended Coolant
.__,.__...._...__.,.,...,......Thermostat Opens At (Degrees) F.
..__..___...Installation
1. Install valve into heater hoses and install hose
clamps.
2. Connect control cable.
3. Install lower radiator hose and add collected coo-
lant.
.....................................Ethylene-Glycol Base
...................................................................189Cooling
SystemCapacity(WithHeater)..........................................................................6Qt.BlowerMotorType
......................................................................................................12VDC
BlowerFanType
..................................................................................................SquirrelCage

9A-16 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
Figure 9A-44 Shroud Cover AttachmentsFigure 9A-46 Heater Motor Attaching Screws
Figure 9A-45 Heater Motor Wires
InstallationFigure 9A-47 Sealing Shroud
1. Install heater motor, attaching with three (3)
screws. See Figure 9A-46.
2. Connect multiple plug on left side of shroud. See
Figure 9A-45.3. Seal shroud cover front and rear contacting areas
with sealing cement. See Figure 9A-47.
4. Install shroud cover, attaching with five (5)
screws.SPECIFICATIONS
EngineRecommended Coolant
..........................................................................Ethylene-Glycol Base
ThermostatOpensAt(Degrees)
F.......................................................................................189Cooling System Capacity (With Heater)
..........................................................................6 Qt.
Blower Motor Type
......................................................................................................12 VDC
Blower Fan Type
..............................................................................................................Blade
Numberof FanBlades
..............................................................................................................7

REFRIGERANT COMPONENTS ALL MODELS9s. 19
Figure 98.3 Effect of One B.T.U. on One
Pc’und of
water
teristics of heat if we think of heat as a sort of color-
ing dye. If we add one drop of red dye to a glass of
water, it will turn slightly pink. Another drop will
make the water more reddish in color (Fig.
9B-4).The more drops of dye we add, the redder the water
will get. Each drop of dye corresponds to 1 Btu and
the succeedingly deeper shades of red are like in-
creases in temperature.
Figure
98-4 Addition of B.T.U. Heats Water
It may seem a little puzzling to talk about beat in a
story on air conditioning but, when you stop to
think about it, we are handling heat exclusively. Al-
though we ordinarily think of an air conditioner as
a device for making air cold, it doesn’t do that di-
rectly. What it does is take heat away from the in-
coming air and transfer that heat outside the vehicle.
We know now that cold is nothing more than the
absence of heat, and that heat always flow from a
warm object to a colder one. We also have
:a clearer
idea of how heat is measured.
From everything we’ve learned about heat
EO far, it
seems to behave in a perfectly normal manner. Yetsometimes heat will disappear without leaving a sin-
gle clue.
Ice vs. Water for CoolingEtery once in a while in the old days, the ice-man
would forget to refill the ice-box. Occasionally, as the
last sliver of ice melted away, somebody would come
up with a bright idea. He would remember that the
water in the drain-pan always felt ice-cold when he
had emptied it other times. So, he would get the
thermometer out and check its temperature. Sure
enough, it usually was about as cold as the ice. Why
not put the drain-pan back in the ice compartment
to keep things cold until the iceman returned the
next day
It was a good idea. but it never worked. For some
strange reason the ice-box never stayed cold. The
drain water soon got quite warm and in a couple of
hours, the butter in the ice-box would begin to melt,
the milk would start to sour, and the vegetables
would wilt.
Why did this happen? The drain water was only a
few degrees warmer than the ice yet it didn’t draw
nearly as much heat out of the stored foods. How-
ever, the difference between the behavior of cold
drain water and ice is the real secret as to how any
refrigerator works and we can easily learn the an-
swer by using an ordinary thermometer.
When we put a drain pan full of cold water into the
ice compartment, we expect the heat to flow from the
warm foods to the colder water. Remember, that
heat always flows from a warm object to a colder
object and when we add heat to water, it gets
warmer. Each Btu of heat added to a pound of water
makes it one degree warmer.
Figure 98.5 Melting Ice Remains at 32 Degrees

98-20 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
If we were to put a thermometer in the cold drain
water, we would see the temperature gradually creep
upwards. That is to be expected because heat is flow-
ing into the cold water making it warmer. Before
long the water would be as warm as the stored foods.
Then the water could no longer attract heat because
heat will not flow from one warm object to another
equally warm object. Since we no longer can draw
heat out of the foods we no longer are cooling them.
Now, let’s see what happens when we put ice instead
of cold water into the ice-box. This time, we’ll set the
thermometer on top of the ice (Fig. 9B-5). When wefirst look at the thermometer, it reads 32 degrees. A
couple of hours later, we open the ice compartment
door. The ice block is smaller because some of the ice
has already melted away
- but the thermometer still
reads 32 degrees. Again, still later, even more of the
ice has melted, yet the termometer continues to read
32 degrees. So long as any ice remains, no matter
how much of it has melted away, the temperature of
the ice stays right at 32 degrees.
All this time the ice has been soaking up heat, yet it
never gets any warmer no matter how much heat it
draws from the stored food. On the other hand, the
cold drain water got progressively warmer as it
soaked up heat. Why is it the addition of heat will
make water warmer yet won’t raise the temperature
of ice above the 32 degrees mark? If we till one
drinking glass with ice and another with cold water,
and put both glasses in the same room where they
could absorb equal amounts of heat from the room
air, we will find it takes much, much longer for the
ice to melt and reach room temperature than it did
for the water in the other glass to reach the same
temperature. Obviously, most of the heat was being
used to melt the ice. But it was the heat that appar-
ently disappeared or went into hiding because if
couldn’t be located with a thermometer. To best de-
scribe this disappearing heat, scientists turned to
Latin for the right word. They chose the word “la-
tent” which means hidden.
Latent Heat
So latent heat is nothing more nor less than hidden
heat which can’t be found with a thermometer.
What happens to the latent heat? Where does it
disappear to? At first it was thought it was in the
water that melted from the ice. But that wasn’t ex-
actly the right answer because, upon checking water
temperature as it melts from ice, it will be found that
it is only a shade warmer than the ice itself. It is not
nearly warm enough to account for all the heat the
ice had absorbed. The only possible answer is that
the latent heat had been used up to change the ice
from a solid into a liquid.
Many substances can be either a solid, or a liquid, ora gas. It just depends on the temperature whether
water for example was a liquid, or a solid (ice), or gas
(steam) (Fig.
9B-6).Figure 99-6 Temperature Determines State of Water
If we put some water in a tea-kettle, set it over a tire
and watch the thermometer as the water gets hotter
and hotter, the mercury will keep rising until the
water starts to boil. Then the mercury seems to stick
at the 212 degrees mark. If we put more wood on the
fire, despite all the increased heat, the mercury will
not budge above the 212 degree mark (Fig.
9B-7).Figure 98.7 Boiling Water Never Exceeds 2 12
DegreesEven though many housewives won’t believe it, no
matter how large or hot you make the flame, you
can’t make water hotter than 2 12 degrees. As a liquid
changes into a gas, it absorbs abnormally great
amounts of heat without getting any hotter. Here is
another instance where heat disappears.
Now we have two different kinds of latent heat,
which are quite alike. To keep their identities sepa-
rate, the first one is called latent heat of fusion. Since
fusion means the same as melting, it is a good de-
scriptive name. The other kind is called latent heat
of vaporization because‘ that means the same as
evaporation.
It may seem as though we have drifted into a story

REFRIGERANT COMPONENTS ALL MODELS96.23Figure 96-l 3 Basic Refrigerant Circuit
we get the heat-laden vapor outside, we can com-
press it with a pump. With enough pressure, we can
squeeze the heat out of “cold” vapor even in a warm
room. An ordinary.radiator will help us get rid of
heat.
By removing the heat, and making the refrigerant
into a liquid, it becomes the same as it was before, So,
we can run another pipe back into the cabinet and
return the refrigerant to the flask to be used over
again.
That is the way most mechanical refrigerators work
today. Now, let’s look at an air conditioning unit to
see how closely it resembles the refrigerator we have
just described.
Basic Air ConditionerWhen we look at an air conditioning unit, we will
always find a set of coils or a tinned radiator core
through which the air to be cooled passes. This is
known as the “evaporator” (Fig.
9B-14). It does the
same job as the flask of refrigerant we
spok.e about
earlier. The refrigerant boils in the evaporator. In
boiling, of course, the refrigerant absorbs heat and
changes into a vapor. By piping this vapor outside
the car we can bodily carry out the heat that caused
its creation.
Once we get vapor out of the evaporator, all we haveFigure 98.14 Evaporator Assembly
to do is remove the heat it contains. Since heat is the
only thing that expanded the refrigerant from a liq-
uid to a vapor in the first place, removal of that same
heat will let the vapor condense into a liquid again.
Then we can return the liquid refrigerant to the
evaporator to be used over again.
Actually, the vapor coming out of the evaporator is
very cold. We know the liquid refrigerant boils at
temperatures considerably below freezing and that
the vapors arising from it are only a shade warmer
even though they do contain quantities of heat.
Consequently, we can’t expect to remove heat from
sub- freezing vapors by “cooling” them in air tem-
peratures that usually range between 60 and 100
degrees heat refuses to
flow from a cold object
toward a warmer object.
But with a pump, we can squeeze the heat-laden
vapor into a smaller space. And, when we compress
the vapor, we also concentrate the heat it contains.
In this way, we can make the vapor hotter without
adding any heat. Then we can cool it in compara-
tively warm air.
That is the only responsibility of a compressor in an
air conditioning system (Fig.
9B-15). It is not in-
tended to be a pump just for circulating the refriger-
ant. Rather, its job is to exert pressure for two
reasons. Pressure makes the vapor hot enough to
cool off in warm air. At the same time, the compres-
sor raises the refrigerant’s pressure above the con-
densing point at the temperature of the surrounding
air so it will condense.
As the refrigerant leaves the compressor, it is still a
vapor although it is now quite hot and ready to give
up the heat that is absorbed in the evaporator. One
of the easiest ways to help refrigerant vapor dis-
charge its heat is to send it through a radiator- like
contrivance known as a condenser (Fig. 9B-16).
The condenser really is a very simple device having
no moving parts. It does exactly the same job as the
radiator in a typical steam-heating system. There,
the steam is nothing more than water vapor. In pass-
ing through the radiator, the steam gives up its heat
and condenses back into water.
The same action takes place in an air conditioning

REFRIGERANT COMPONENTS ALL MODELS9B- 2596.15
Figure 95.17 Float Type Flow Valve
enough to close the valve and stop the flow of refrig-
erant liquid.
For the sake of simplicity, we have described the
float and valve action as being in a sort of definite
wide open or tight shut condition. Actually, though,
the liquid level falls rather slowly as the refrigerant
boils away. Likewise, the float goes down gradually
and gradually opens the valve just a crack. New
refrigerant liquid barely seeps in through the
“cracked” valve. At such a slow rate of flow, it raises
the liquid level in the evaporator very slowly.
With that in mind, it is easy to see how it would be
possible for a stabilized condition to exist. By that,
we mean a condition wherein the valve would be/
DIAPHRAGMACTUATINGBACK.UP PLATE
PINS \
t
>IAPHRAGM \
/
BoDyEQUALIZER\4]
PASSAGE
‘!!!ISEATSCkEEN:ARRIAGEORIFICE
AGE SPRINGIER ELEMENT:MOB”LBSPRING SEAT
OUTLET
W-16opened barely enough to allow just exactly the right
amount of refrigerant liquid to enter the freezer to
take the place of that leaving as a vapor.
Thermostatic Expansion ValveAutomotive air conditioning systems use a thermo-
static expansion valve in place of the float system.
Figure 9B-18 shows a cross-section of the valve
which consists primarily of the gas-filled power ele-
ment, body, actuating pins, seat and orifice. At the
high pressure liquid inlet is a tine mesh screen which
prevents dirt, tilings or other foreign matter from
entering the valve orifice.
When the valve is connected in the system, the high
pressure liquid refrigerant enters the valve through
the screen from the receiver-dehydrator (which acts
as a storage tank for the condensed refrigerant as it
leaves the condenser) and passes on to the seat and
orifice. Upon passing through the orifice the high
pressure liquid becomes low pressure liquid. The low
pressure liquid leaves the valve and flows into the
evaporator core where it absorbs heat from the
evaporator core and changes to a low pressure vapor,
and leaves the evaporator core as such. The power
element bulb is clamped to the low pressure vapor
line just beyond the outlet of the evaporator (Fig.
9B-20).The operation of the valve is quite simple. It is a
matter of controlling opposing forces produced by a
spring and the refrigerant pressures. For example:
The pressure in the power element is trying to push
the seat away from the orifice, while the spring is
trying to force the seat toward the orifice. These
opposing pressures are established in the design of
the valve so that during idle periods, i.e. when the
system is not operating, the spring force and the
refrigerant pressure in the cooling coil are always
Figure 9B-18 Thermostatic Expansion Valve
Figure
98.20 Expansion Valve Bulb Location