IGNITION SYSTEMlC-214. Rota&distributor counterclockwise slightly until
contact pbints just start to open. This must be done
very carefully or engine will not start.
5. Install distributor cap. Make sure spark plug wires
are correctly installed in distributor cap, through clip
and on spark plugs.
Finish TimingIContact boint gap
(.016” at widest gap) or dwell 50
degrees plus or minus 3 degrees should always be
checked before adjusting ignition timing.
1. Connekt timing light to No. 1 spark plug.
2. Disconnect and plug vacuum advance unit and
retard u$it hoses.
3. Connect a tachometer from distributor side of coil
to
groun$l.4. Start dngine. Set idle speed to 900 RPM.
5. Rotate distributor as necessary to align timing
marks. T;ming mark is a steel ball embedded in the
flywheel and a pointer in a window in the right fly-
wheel housing. See Figure lC-4.:Figure lC-4 Ignition Timing Marks
6.
Tightq clamp bolt securely and recheck timing
mark ahgnment.
7. Reconnect vacuum hoses and adjust engine idle
speed
an: mixture.
IGNlTlOFj WIRE INSPECTION
1. The c$il and spark plug wires are of a specialresistance type. These secondary ignition wires
reduce television and radio interference.
2. Wipe ignition wires with a cloth moistened with
solvent and wipe dry. Bend wires to check for brittle,
cracked or swollen insulation. Defective insulation
will permit missing or cross-firing of spark plugs,
therefore any defective wires must be replaced.
3. If wire insulation is in good condition, clean any
terminals that are corroded and replace any termi-
nals that are broken or damaged. Terminals must tit
tight on spark plugs and in distributor cap.
4. Replace any hardened, cracked or loose cap nip-
ples or spark plug boots.
5. Check resistance of each wire from contact inside
distributor cap to spark plug or coil terminal. Re-
place any wire having over 10,000 ohms resistance
reading. See Figure lC-5.
Figure fC-5 Checking Ignition Wire Resistance
CHECK IGNITION OUTPUT
1. Disconnect secondary coil ivire so that engine will
not start. Connect a voltmeter from the battery side
of the coil primary to ground and check voltage
while engine is cranking. Reading should be 10 volts
or more. Low reading could be caused by a defective
battery, a discharged battery, high starter current
draw, a bad connection in the starter circuit or a bad
connection in the primary ignition circuit.
2. Connect an oscilloscope according to manufac-
turer’s instructions. Disconnect coil wire. Crank en-
gine and read coil output voltage. Reading should
exceed 20 KV (20,000 volts).
lC- 22 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL j
3. Start engine and disconnect a wire from a spark
plug. Read output voltage of disconnected spark
plug circuit. Reading should exceed 20 KV
(20,poO
volts).I
CHECK DISTRIBUTOR
!1. Clean distributor cap and inspect it for cracks or
tracking. Inspect inner segments for erosion and
outer sockets for corrosion.
2. Clean and inspect ignition wires. Make sure resist-
ance of each wire is less than 10,000 ohms. Replace
any defective spark plug boots or distributor
capnipples. See paragraph lC-12.
3. Inspect breaker points and replace if necessary.
Adjust breaker point gap to
,016 inch with rubbing
block on peak of cam lobe or check dwell and adjust
if not 50 degrees plus or minus 3 degrees. 4. Check
dwell variation by reading dwell at idle and at 3000
RPM. Dwell must not vary more than 3 degrees.
Excessive variation means distributor shaft, cam or
breaker plate are worn or damaged--overhaul dis-
tributor and replace defective parts.
5. Check distributor condenser for a minimum series
resistance and insulation leakage. Check for a
capacity between
.15 and .20 microfarads.
6. Check total advance (centrifugal and vacuum) at
2500 engine RPM using a timing light having a dial
for reading advance.
(a) The timing marks are aligned with both the
vacuum advance and the vacuum retard hoses dis-
connected and plugged.
Engine idle should be 900 RPM.
(b) Reconnect vacuum hoses. Run engine at
3600RPM and adjust knob until timing marks are
aligned. Read advance on dial. Maximum centrifugal
advance should be between 28-32 degrees.
7. If total advance is out of specifications, check
centrifugal advance only, at
2500 RPM. Discon+ectand plug all vacuum hoses. Maximum vacuum ad-
vance should be l-5 degrees at 4.5-5.0 in. hg.
8. Replace centrifugal or vacuum advance parts as
required to bring distributor total advance within
specifications.
9. Check operation of vacuum retard unit (rear unit)
by first making sure timing marks are aligned with
vacuum hoses disconnected and at slow idle (700
RPM). Then connect vacuum hose to vacuum retard
unit (rear unit). Timing ball should move in a retard
direction (upward).
CHEICK SPARK PLUGS1. Remove spark plugs. If electrodes are badly worn,
discard plugs. If inner or outer porcelain is cracked
or broken, discard plugs.
2. Note color and general appearance of inner end of
spark plug. Brown to grayish
- tan deposits and slight
electrode wear indicate correct spark plug heat
range. Plugs having this appearance may be cleaned,
regapped, tested and reinstalled.
3. Clean spark plugs in a sand blast type cleaner.
Clean only enough to remove deposits, not enough to
wear away porcelain. If deposits are too hard to
remove or if porcelain is glazed, discard plugs.
4. After cleaning spark plugs, clean tiring surfaces of
electrodes with a line file.
5. Test cleaned spark plugs on a pressure tester by
comparing spark of the used plugs with that of a new
plug. Install tested plugs, using new gaskets.
6. If removed spark plugs have excessive carbon foul-
ing and if the car will be driven mostly at low speeds
in city driving, it is advisable to replace plugs with
a hotter plug, AC43FS.
7. If removed plugs show rapid electrode wear or
inner porcelain breakage at low mileage. Check for
a vacuum leak such as a poor manifold to head fit.
8.
Clap spark plugs carefully (new or cleaned) using
a
,030 round wire feeler gage.IC6
Figure lC-6 Distributor Installation
i
1 D- 301973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
6. Make sure all electrical accessories are turned (lff.
Start engine with battery post adapter switch closed;
open switch as soon as engine
iS: started.
7. Adjust engine speed to 2500 RPM.
8. Turn tester control knob to “LOAD” position
aid
adjust knob to obtain highest possible ammeter r&d-
ing. Output must be 30 amperes minimum. If
outcut
is okay, proceed to voltage regulator test below. j
/.9. If output is low, defect may be in alternator or m
regulator. To eliminate regulator, supply field &-
rent direct to cause full alternat,or output. Unplug
three-way connector from regulator and plug in a
jumper between the red and black leads. See Figure
lD-5. Retest as described in Steps 7 and 8. If output
is still low, generator is faulty and must be
remov&d.
301D5 :
Figure lD-5 Alternator Ouiput Check I
10. If output (using field jumper) is now okay, defect
is in the regulator or wiring harness. Check all wiring
connections. If all wiring is okay, try
replac/~g
regulator; if output now tests okay (without
uslpg
field jumper), you have found the trouble. Always
follow-up with a voltage regulator test.
Test and Adjust Voltage Regulator Setting
1. Always test alternator output first, as describedlin
subparagraph a above. Leave all test
instrumeqts
connected, but make sure field
jumper is removed; if
used.
2. With engine speed at 2500 RPM, turn tester con-
trol
knob to “l/4 OHM” position. Make sure ill
electrical accessories are turned off. After volt&e
reading stabilizes, any reading between 13.5 and 14.5
volts is okay.
3. If voltage reading is out of limits, remove regulator cover and adjust voltage regulator armature spring
tension to obtain a middle reading of 14.0 volts. If
reading fluctuates, voltage contacts are dirty.
4. Replace regulator cover and recheck voltage set- ting. A steady voltage reading between 13.5 and 14.5
volts means voltage regulator is okay.
5. Adjust engine speed to specified idle. Reseal volt-
age regulator cover carefully, using electrical tape.
MAJOR REPAIR
ALTERNATOR OVERHAUL
Always disconnect battery ground cable before mak-
ing any electrical repairs.
Alternator Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground strap.
2. Unplug wiring connector from alternator. 3. Disconnect battery lead from alternator.
4. Remove adjusting brace bolt, lockwasher, plain
washer and nut.
5. Loosen pivot bolt. Push alternator inward and
remove belt from pulley.
6. Drop alternator down and remove pivot bolt, nut,
lockwasher and plain washer.
7. Remove alternator.
Figure 1D-6 Removing Alternator Pulley
I
GAUGES1 I- 67I
I Condition
Car
&s out of gas with
gauge indicating fuel in
tank. 1
I
I
I
I
IPossible Cause
1. Tank unit misadjusted
2. Defective voltage
stabilizer.Correction
1. Follow corrective action as
stated above (obtain empty
reading on dash)
1. See corrective action above.
Temperature gauge not1. Loose dash gauge1. See corrective action above.
Iattaching nut.
I
I
I2. Defective temperature1. Install 40 ohm resistor
Isending unitbetween temperature sneding
Iunit and ground (disconnect
I
from unit). If dash unit reads
I
full scale, replace temperature
Isending unit.
I
I
I3. Open wiring.1. Follow corrective action as
Istated above (connector socket
Iwith blue wire).Tempkrature gauge indicates
hot when engine temperature1. Incorrect temperature1. Check for correct sending unit
sending unit
normal.(white porcelain) replace if
incorrect.
2. i>efective temperaturesending unit.1. See corrective action above.
3. Dkfective voltage
stabilizer.
1. See Corrective action above.
GAS
GdUGE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS - GT4. Disconnect the tank unit lead wire (light blue with
black tracer) from the tank unit.
An inoperative gas gauge reading can normally be
found to result from a poor grounding condition
within the circuit. Using the procedure as outlined
below may lead to the correction of the inoperative
reading without replacement of either the tank unit
or the
dph unit.5. Connect ihe stock tank unit; ground unit, and
operate manually.
6. If the dash unit shows a correct reading, then
replacement of the tank unit is required as the cor-
rection.
1. Makelcertain the gas tank (ground) strap is prop-
erly secured.A correct reading will be one which resembles the
movement of the manually-operated tank unit.
2. Make’certain the ground wire (brown in color) for
gasoline/ and temperature gauges is properly con-
nected tb the windshield wiper motor and is secured.
(This
gl?ound wire is also common for the heater
blower
etor.)7. If the dash unit does not show a correct reading,
then its replacement is necessary.
If the adove procedure does not produce a satisfac-
tory gaube reading, an attempt to isolate the defec-
tive
par<, i.e. tank or dash unit should be made.
3. Rem&e a tank unit from parts stock.MAJOR
AEPAIR
OPEL 1900. MANTA
Removing Voltage Stabilizer1. Remove instrument cluster housing assembly.
WHEELS AND TIRES3G- 55
WHEELS AND TIRES
CONTENTS
Subject
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION: (Not Applicable)
DIAGNOSIS:
Car
RoughnessandVibration. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .AbnormalTireWear
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS:
Demounting and Mounting Tubeless Tires
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .Wheel
andTireBalance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .MAJOR REPAIR: (Not Applicable)
SPECIFICATIONS:
Specifications
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Page No.
3G-55
3G-58
3G-6136-6236-62
DIAGNOSIS
CAR ROUGHNESS AND VIBRATIONinflation pressures and perform tire inspection, in-
cluding removal of any foreign material on tire tread
or wheel large enough to upset balance.
Possible Causes
To assist in the diagnosis and correction of some of
the more stubborn cases of tire vibration and rough-
ness conditions that may be encountered, the follow-
ing information is offered:Tire inflation pressure recommendations are very
important at all times and particularly so on all ride
complaints. Raising or lowering tire pressures to
“improve” mileage or traction should not be at-
tempted.
VIBRATION, or a quivering motion condition, no-
ticeable by feel through the steering column, steering
wheel, floor
p&n, or by hood and fender shake, usu-
ally originates from the front wheels and tires. Front
end vibration, when caused by unbalanced front
wheels, can be generally felt as steering wheel “nib-ble”.Next, road-test the car with the owner, if possible,
and have the owner explain the specific ride disturb-
ance.After road-testing, raise car on hoist and proceed to
isolate the offending tire/wheel assembly.
Reproducing the Disturbance
A vibration felt through the seats as a side-to-side
disturbance can usually be attributed to the rearIn an attempt to reproduce the disturbance ex-
wheels and tires.perienced in the ride, a wheel spinner can be used on
the front wheels of the car.
Both front and rear vibration can be noticed mainly
at highway speeds, usually over 60 mph.The rear wheels may be spun by placing car in
“Drive” with engine running.
ROUGHNESS, noticeable primarily at speeds be-
tween 40 and 65 mph, can be felt (and occasionally
heard), and is due to certain irregularities in the tire.
Roughness usually sets up a “trembling” feel or a
shuddering effect.When spinning rear wheels, never exceed a speedom-
eter speed of 35 mph with a standard rear axle assem-
bly, or 75 mph on one with a positive traction rear
axle. Excessive speeds may cause damage to the rear
axle assembly.
Road-Test With Owner
When a ride complaint is encountered, first checkJack up both rear wheels by placing the jack under
the differential housing. Spin one wheel and tire with
the opposite wheel held from rotating by holding the
3G- 581873 OPEL SERVICE MANUALTire Wear IrregularitiesAn additional cause of vibrations may sometimes be
tire wear irregularities. These can also produce noise
disturbances, and can be generally corrected by
rotating the tires, Figure
3G-6. Before proceeding
further, locate and correct the cause of the irregular
tire wear. See Figure
3G-7.Use the criss-cross method of rotation of tires only
when all four tires are equally worn. In some in-
stances, it may be necessary to put the truest running
assemblies (those with the lowest tolerances) on the
front of the car.
Wheel Nut Torque end Tightening SpecificationsDuring all wheel installations, it is important to use
the correct procedures for installing wheel nuts and
torquing them uniformly and in proper sequence.
This is important in order to avoid possible distor-
tion of the brake drum or disc, and to minimize
damage to lug and nut threads and wheel stud holes.
To assure uniform tightening of wheel lug nuts, the
following procedure is recommended:
1. Install wheel lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern and
tighten just enough to seat wheel against hub. This
assures proper piloting of the wheel on its hub.
2. Tighten lug nuts uniformly to proper torque of 65
Ib.ft. using criss-cross pattern.
An impact wrench should not be used, as uniform
torque control cannot be maintained.
Summary of Diagnosis end Correction of Tire and
Wheel Vibration1. Inflate all tires to recommended pressure and
road-test car with owner to define problem.
2. Spin front tire/wheel assemblies with wheel driv-
ing equipment. Rear wheels may be spun with tires
off the ground and with one wheel held at a time. The
offending tire may cause vibration that may be felt
by touching the bumper or fender. By process of
elimination, determine offending tire/wheel assem-
bly.
3. Check for tire/wheel unbalance. Balance, if neces-
sary.4. Check each tire/wheel assembly on the car for
radial runout on the tire tread. Wheel and tire assem-
blies exceeding
.050 inches may be considered as
offending assemblies. Offending tire/wheel assemblyshould be deflated and the tire repositioned (indexed)
180 degrees from original location.
5. After repositioning, rebalance tire/wheel assembly
(static and dynamic preferred).
6. Test drive and evaluate correction.
The following procedure should be used to determine
cause of roughness or vibration with car in operation
at various speeds:
I. Jack up all wheels having jack support rear end of
car at center of rear axle housing.
2. With transmission in “Drive”, run engine at vari-
ous car speeds to note speeds at which vibration or
roughness occurs.
3. Remove rear wheels and run engine again at the
critical speeds noted in step 2. If roughness is gone,
the condition is caused by unbalanced wheel and tire
assemblies.
4. If roughness still exists with rear wheels removed,
remove rear brake drums and repeat the running
test. Elimination of the roughness indicates out of
balance brake drums.
5. If roughness still exists with brake drums
removed, run engine with transmission in “Neutral”.
Elimination of the roughness indicates that propeller
shaft is out of balance. Continued roughness indi-
cates an out-of- balance engine.
ABNORMAL TIRE WEAR
General Operating ConditionsAssuming that there is no misalignment condition to
cause abnormal wear, the life of tires depends largely
upon car operation conditions and driving habits.
Tires wear at a much faster rate in some localities
than in others because of road and operating condi-
tions. Some types of roads are much more abrasive
than others. Tire wear is also dependent upon the
number of hills and mountains which the car must
go up and down, the severity of grades, the number
of starts and stops, driging speeds, the amount of rain
and snow, and prevailing temperatures. Tire
wear
increases rapidly with speed, temperature, and loadon tire. Tires used at low speeds, in cool climates, or
with light loads will have longer life than tires used
for high-speed driving in hot climates with heavy
loads.
Driving habits have a very important hearing on tire
life. A careful driver may obtain much greater mile-
age from a set of tires than would be obtained by a
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER AND MASTER CYLINDER5A- 5ConditionGrabby Brakes (Apparent
Off-and On Condition)
Possible Cause1. Broken or damaged
hydraulic brake lines.Correction1. Inspect and replace, as
“CXXSSary.2. Insufficient fluid in
master cylinder.
3. Defective master cylinder
seals.4. Cracked master cylinder
casting.2. Fill reservoirs with approved
brake fluid check for leaks.
3. Repair or replace, asnecessary.4. Replace
5. Leaks at front disc brake
calipers or rear wheel
cylinders
in pipes or connections.5. Inspect and repair, as
necessary.Brakes Fail to Release6. Air in hydraulic system.
1. Blocked passage in power
piston.
2. Air valve sticking shut.6. Bleed system.
1. Inspect and repair or replace,
as necessary.
2. Check for proper lubrication of
air valve “0” ring.
3. Broken piston return spring
3. Replace
master cylinder.
4. Tight pedal linkage.5. Repair or replace, as
necessary.
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
CHECKING BRAKE BOOSTER OPERATIONThe operation of the brake booster can be checked by
simple means and without any special devices.
1. With engine off, first clear the booster of any
vacuum by depressing brake pedal several times.
2. Then depress brake pedal and start engine. If the
vacuum system is working correctly, the brake pedal,
kept under even foot pressure, moves farther down-
wards due to the additional pressure developed by
the booster. Should the brake pedal not move farther
downwards, the vacuum system is deficient. In this
case check the vacuum hose to booster, to vacuum
control valve and to engine intake manifold connec-
tions.3. If the vacuum system operates properly, the defect
is in the brake booster itself. A dirty filter impairs oreven prevents air from entering into the booster and
thereby the formation of a difference in pressure in
the vacuum cylinder.
Repairs cannot be carried out on the brake booster.
If no deficiency can be found in the vacuum system
or filter, the brake booster has to be replaced.
Under normal operating conditions the brake
booster requires no service. However, under adverse
conditions such as frequent driving on sandy or
dusty roads, the filter and sound deadener should be
replaced occasionally. To do so, the brake booster
must be removed but it isn’t necessary to detach the
master cylinder.
BRAKE BOOSTER FILTER SERVICEUnder normal operating conditions the filter need
not be exchanged for a new one.
Under adverse operating conditions
- frequent driv-
5C- 281973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
Figure 5C-51 Rear Wheel Brake Adjustment
disconnected, or when cables have been stretched
through extended use. Need for parking brake ad-
justment is indicated if the service brake operates
with good reserve, but the parking brake handle
can be engaged, more than eight ratchet clicks
under heavy pressure.
After making certain that service brakes are in good
adjustment, adjust parking brake mechanism as fol-lows:1. Fully release parking brake lever; check parking
brake cable for free movement.
2. Loosen equalizer nut or adjusting nut, depending
upon whether. tension is to be increased or decreased
on cable.
3. Pull parking brake lever up by three (3) clicks. In
this position, adjust equalizer with adjusting and
lock nuts so that rear brakes just begin to bind. Take
care that rear brake action is equal on both rear
wheels. In case of unequal brake action, apply lubri-
cant to equalizer and brake cable.
4. After adjustment, tighten lock nut. Be certain that
equalizer is in horizontal position. Check operation
of parking brake. If parking brake adjustment doesnot result in proper brake action, inspect linings on
both rear wheels for possible replacement.
Filling Brake Master Cylinder
ReservoirThe master cylinder reservoir must be kept properly
filled to insure adequate reserve and to prevent air
from entering the hydraulic system. However, be-
cause of expansion due to heat absorbed from brakff
and from engine, master cylinder must not be over-
tilled.
The plastic brake fluid reservoir is attached to the
master cylinder which is located under the hood on
the left side of the cowl.
Thoroughly clean reservoir cover before removal to
avoid getting dirt into reservoir. Remove cover and
add fluid as required to bring level up to “MAX.”
marked on reservoir.
Use Delco Supreme No. 11 Hydraulic Brake Fluid
or equivalent.
Do not use shock absorber fluid or any other fluid
which contains mineral oil. Do not use a container
which has been used for mineral oil. Even a trace of
mineral oil will cause swelling and distortion of rub-
ber parts in the hyrdaulic brake system.
Bleeding Brake Hydraulic SystemA bleeding operation is necessary to remove air whe-
never it is introduced into the hydraulic brake sys-
tem. Since air is compressible and hydraulic fluid is
not, the presence of air in the system is indicated by
a springy, spongy feeling of the brake pedal accom-
panied by poor braking action.
Air will be introduced into the hydraulic system if
the brake pedal is operated when the fluid is too low
in master cylinder reservoir. Air will also enter the
system whenever any part of hydraulic system is
disconnected.
It will be necessary to bleed both hydraulic systems
if air has been introduced through low fluid level or
by disconnecting brake pipes at master cylinder. If
brake pipe is disconnected at any wheel cylinder,
then that wheel cylinder only need be bled. If pipes
are disconnected at any fitting located between mas-
ter cylinder and wheel cylinders, then the wheel
cylinder(s) served by the disconnected pipe must be
bled.
Sequence for Bleeding Wheel
Cylinders or CalipersIt is advisable to bleed one wheel cylinder or caliper