Figure 5C-53 Rear Brake Assembly
10. Check all backing plate attaching bolts to make
sure they are tight. Using line emery cloth, clean all
rust and dirt from shoe contact surfaces on plate. See
Figure Z-53.
Relining Brake ShoesIf old brake shoes are to be relined, inspect shoes for
distortion and for looseness between the rim and
web; these are causes for discarding any shoe. If
shoes are serviceable, be governed by the following
points in installing new linings:
1. Remove old rivets by drilling them out. Punching
out rivets will cause distortion of shoe rim. Care5C- 301973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
must also be taken to support shoes properly while
drilling.
2. Thoroughly clean brake shoes and remove all
burrs around rivet holes.
3. Use Opel brake lining or equivalent. Install in
place and rivet in sequence shown in Figure
Z-54.Keep hands clean while handling brake lining. Do
not permit oil or grease to come in contact with
lining.
Installation and Adjustment
1. If any hydraulic conne&tions were disturbed, bleed
hydraulic system. If new parts were installed in
brake system, flushing of hydraulic system is recom-
mended.
2. Adjust rear wheel brakes.
3. Adjust parking brake.
4. Check fluid level in master cyliner and add fluid
if necessary.
5. Check brake pedal for proper feel and for proper
return.
6. Remove jacks and road test car for proper brake
action. Brakes must not be severely applied immedi-
ately after installation of new brake shoes or linings.
Severe application may perinanently injure new lin-
ings and may score brake drums. When linings are
new, they must be given moderate use for several
days until burnished.
INSPECTING AND RECONDITIONING
BRAKE DRUMSWhenever brake drums are removed, they should
bethoroughly cleaned and inspected for cracks, scores,
deep groves, and out-of-round. Any of these condi-
tions must be corrected since they can impair the
efficiency of brake operation and also can cause
premature failure of other parts.
Cracked, Scored or Grooved DrumA cracked drum is unsafe for further service and
must be replaced. Welding a cracked drum is not
recommended.
Smooth up any slight scores by polishing with tine
emery cloth. Heavy or extensive scoring will cause
excessive brake lining wear and it will be necessary
to rebore in order to true up the braking surface.
Figure 5C.54 Brake Lining Riveting
SequenceIf the brake linings are slightly worn and drum is
grooved, the drum should be rebored just enough to
DRUM BRAKES5c- 31
remove grooves, and the ridges in the lining should
be lightly removed with a lining grinder.
If brake linings are more than half worn, but do not
need replacement, the drum should be polished with
fine emery cloth but should not be rebored. At this
stage, eliminating the grooves in drum and smooth-
ing the ridges on lining would necessitate removal of
too much metal and lining, while if left alone, the
grooves and ridges match and satisfactory service
can be obtained.
If brake linings are to be replaced, a grooved drum
should be rebored for use with oversize linings. A
grooved drum, if used with new lining, will not only
wear the lining but will make it
diff%xlt, if not im-
possible, to obtain etXcient brake performance.
Out-of-Round DrumAn out-of-round drum makes accurate brake shoe
adjustment impossible and is likely to cause excessive
wear of other parts of brake mechanism due to its
eccentric action. An out-of-round drum can also
cause brake pulsation. Maximum permissible drumrunout is 004”. A drum that has more run-out than
this should be rebored. Runout can be accurately
checked by using an inside micrometer fitted with
proper extension rods.
When measuring a drum for run-out, take measure-
ments at open and closed edges of machined surface
and at right angles to each other.
Turning Brake DrumsIf a brake drum is to be turned, enough metal should
be removed to obtain a true, smooth braking surface.
Measure brake drum diameter; standard drum inner
diameter is 9.060”. Drums may be turned to an over-
size of ,030”. If maximum inner diameter after turn-
ing exceeds 9.090”, brake drum will have to be
replaced. Removal of more metal will affect dissipa-
tion of heat and may cause distortion of the drum.
1. Remove rear wheels and drums.
2. Mount brake drum on brake drum lathe and turn
drums as necessary, within limits.
3. After turning, check drum diameter. Inner diame-
ter not to exceed 9.090.
4. A newly-bored drum should always have center
contact with brake shoes. For this reason, arc grind
linings to
.OlO” under drum radius, or to ,020” under
drum diameter.
5. Clean and install drums and wheels.
BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER OVERHAUL1. Remove wheel, drum, and brake shoes. Be careful
not to get grease or dirt on brake lining.
2. Disconnect brake pipe or hose from wheel cylinder
and cover opening with tape to prevent entrance of
dirt. Remove wheel cylinder from backing plate.
3. Remove boots, pistons, cups, and spring from cyl-
inder. Remove bleeder valve.
4. Discard rubber boots and piston cups. Thoroughly
clean all other parts with hydraulic brake fluid orDeclene. Do not use anti-freeze, alcohol, gasoline,
kerosene, or any other cleaning fluid that might con-
tain even a trace of mineral oil.
5. Inspect pistons and cylinder bore for scores, scrat-
ches, or corrosion. Light scratches may be polished
with crocus cloth. Do not use emery cloth or sandpa-
per.
Shght corro~on may be cleaned wth tine steel
wool. If scratches or corroded spots are too deep to
be polished satisfactorily, the cylinder should be re-
placed since honing is not recommended.
6. Dip internal parts in brake fluid and reassembly
wheel cylinder. When installing piston cups, use care
to avoid damaging the edges.
7. If the rear wheel backing plate is removed: Always
install new paper gaskets one on each side
- on the
backing plate. Prior to installation, lightly coat paper
gaskets with chassis lubricant. Torque backing plate
to rear axle housing bolts to 43
lb.ft. and wheel brake
cylinder to backing plate bolts to 5
lb.ft. Install wheel
cylinder on brake backing plate and connect brake
pipe or hose.
8. Install brake shoes, drum, and wheel, then flush
and bleed hydraulic system.
9. Adjust brakes, then road test car for brake per-
formance.
CAUTION:This brake backing plate to rear axle fis-
tener is an important attaching part in that it could
affect the performance of vital components and sys-
tems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It
must be replaced with one of the same part number
or with an equivalent part, if replacement becomes
necessary. Do not
use a replacement part of lesser
quahty or substitute design. Torque v&es must be
used as specified during reassembly to assure proper
retention of this part.
REPLACING BRAKE PIPESAny brake pipe assembly which is needed must be
made up from service bulk tubing and fittings. All
brake pipes must be made of tin or copper coated
wrapped steel tubing with the ends double lap flared.
6A. 61973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALDIAGNOSIS
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
ConditionCorrectionExternal Oil Leaks at:Tighten attaching bolts. If leaks
Rocker Arm Coverspersist, remove cover (or pan),
Crankcase Front Covercheck sealing surfaces for burrs
Oil Pan and Gasketor scoring, replace gasket, and
seal bolts with silastic sealer or
equivalent. Make sure oil level
,is not overfull.
Improper Reading of Dip-Car may not be level when taking r
StickInsuffIcient oil “drain-back” time
after stopping engine (three
minutes must be allowed). Dip-
stick may not be completely pushed
down against stop. Dipstick may
be bent.
Oil Viscosity Too LightUse recommended SAE viscosity for
prevailing temperatures.
Continuous High-SpeedAt speeds above 60 mph, increased
Drivingsumption can be expected with any
Inform customer of this fact.
High-Speed DrivingWhen principal use of automobile i
Following Normal Slowcity driving, crankcase dilution f
Speed City Drivingcondensation occurs. High speed a
temperatures will remove water,
resulting in what appears to be
rapid lowering of oil level.
Inform customer of this fact.
Piston Rings NotAllow engine to accumulate at leas
“Broken In”
4,OCO miles before attempting any
engine disassembly to correct for
oil consumption.
NOISY VALVES AND LIFTERSIf the preceding check indicates valve mechanism is
abnormally noisy, remove the rocker arm cover so
that the various conditions that cause noise may be
The noise level of the valve mechanism cannot bechecked. A piece of heater hose of convenient length
properly judged where the engine is below operatingmay be used to pick out the particular valves or valve
temperature when the hood is raised, or when thelinkages
thit are causing abnormal noise. With the
valve rocker arm covers are removed.engine running at a speed where the noise is pro-
nounced; hold the end of hose to an ear and hold
Before attempting to judge valve noise level, the en-other end about
l/2 inch from point of contact be-
gine must be thoroughly warmed up (at least 20tween rocker arm and valve stem. Mark or record the
minutes of operation at
1200 to 1500 RPM) to stabil-noisy valves for investigation of following causes:ize oil and coolant temperatures and bring all engine
parts to a normal state of expansion. When the
en-1. Sticking, Warped, or Eccentric Valves, Worngine is warmed up, listen for engine noise while
sit-Guides Sticking valves will cause irregular engine
ting in the driver’s seat with the hood closed. Run theoperation or missing on a low speed pull and will
engine at idle and at various higher speeds.usually cause intermittent noise.
ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 9
The engine does not rest on the front suspension
cross member as in the Opel 1900 and Manta but on
a separate cross member. On removal and installa-
tion of the engine the front suspension cross member
need not be detached.
Fig. 6A-10 Right Front Engine Suspension with Cross
Member
(GT)1. Disconnect battery negative cable,
2. Remove air cleaner.
3. Drain radiator coolant by disconnecting lower
radiator hose. Disconnect upper radiator hose. See
Figure 6A-11. Radiator need not be disconnected.
4. Disconnect all electrical connections:
a. Coil wire to distributor.
b. Wires from alternator. Remove unit and bracket.
c. Battery positive cable at starter switch.
d. Oil pressure switch wires at cylinder block.
e. Wires from starter solenoid.
5. Remove vacuum hoses at tee mounted to intake
manifold. Remove tee from manifold to avoid inter-
ference during engine lowering.
6. Remove throttle linkage and carburetor.
7. Disconnect heater hoses.
8. Disconnect water valve bracket to manifold,
9. Remove gear shift lever.
10. Using suitable equipment lift up engine so that
front engine mounts are somewhat relieved.Figure 6A.1
1 Radiator Hose Clamp Location
11. Raise vehicle, both front and rear end. A two post
axle type hoist
IS recommended for this operation.
12. Disconnect fuel line at fuel pump and plug. Be
sure fuel line is disconnected from any engine and
transmission clips.
13. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmis-
sion.14. Disconnect clutch cable.
15. Disconnect drive shaft at rear universal joint and
remove.
16. Disconnect exhaust at manifold.
17. Remove tailpipe and mufIler hangers.
18. Remove ground strap from engine to side rail.
19. Detach transmission cross member from trans-
mission and frame. See Figure 6A-12.
20. Detach engine cross member from engine and
frame.21. Carefully lower engine and transmission and
remove from underneath vehicle.
6A. 201973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
diameter at the right angle to the piston pin is greater
than the diameter parallel to the piston pin. When a
piston is checked for size, it must be measured with
micrometers applied to the skirt at ,points 90 degrees
to the piston pin. See Figure
6A-32. The piston
should be measured (for fitting p&poses) 2
l/2 in-
ches below the top of piston.
MEASURE AT
Figure 6A-32
Measuring,PistonInspect bearing surfaces of piston pins. Check for
wear by measuring worn and unworn surfaces with
micrometers. Rough or worn pins should be re-
placed. Check fit of piston pins in piston bosses.
Occasionally pins will be found tight due to gum or
varnish deposits. This may be corrected by removing
the deposit with a suitable solveni. If piston bosses
are worn out-of-round or oversize, the piston and pin
assembly must be replaced. Oversize pins are not
practical because the pin is a press fit in the connect-
ing rod. Piston pins must tit the piston with
0X4”to
.OCHl7” clearance.
Examine all piston rings for scores, chips or cracks.
Check compression rings for tension by comparing
with new rings. Check gap of compression rings by
placing rings in bore at bottom of ring travel. Meas-
ure gap with feeler gage. Gap should be between
,011” and .02.1”. If gaps are excessive (over .021”) it
indicates the rings have worn considerably and
should be replaced.
No attempt should be made to cut down oversize
pistons to fit cylinder bores. This practice
will de-
stroy the surface treatment and affect the weight.
The
sma/Jest possible oversize service pistons shouId
be used and the cylinder
bores should be honed to
size for proper clearance.1. Before installing piston, piston rings, or reboring
cylinders, observe the following:Cylinder bores may not be the same size. Standard
replacement piston sizes are in the midpoint of the
cylinder bore size range. Therefore, it may be neces-
sary to hone cylinders for correct piston tit. Out-of-
round on cylinder bore must not exceed
.ooO5”maximum with a taper of not over
.OilO5”.Before the honing or reboring operation is started,
measure all new pistons with micrometer contacting
at points exactly 90 degrees to piston pin (Figure6A-32) then select the smallest piston for the first
fitting. The slight variation usually found between
pistons in a set may provide for correction if the first
piston has excessive clearance.
If wear of cylinder does not exceed
.005” honing is
recommended for truing the bore. If wear or
out-of-round exceeds these limits, the bore should be trued
up with a fly cutter boring bar and then finish honed.
When reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps
must be in place and tightened to proper torque to
avoid distortion ofbores in final assembly. Always be
certain the crankshaft is out of the way of the boring
cutter when boring each cylinder. When making thefinal cut with boring bar, leave
,001 w on the diameter
for finish honing to give the required clearance speci-
fied.When honing cylinders, use clean sharp stones of
proper grade for the required amount of metal to be
removed, in accordance with instructions of the hone
manufacturer. Dull or dirty stones cut unevenly and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse or
medium grade stones use care to leave sufficient
metal so that all stone marks may be removed with
the fine stones used for finishing in order to maintain
proper clearance.
When finish honing, pass the hone through the entire
length of cylinder at the rate of approximately 60
cycles per minute. This should produce the desired
45 degree cross hatch pattern on cylinder walls
which will insure maximum ring life and minimum
oil consumption.
It is of the greatest importance that refinished cylin-
der bores have not over
.0005” out-of-round or ta-
pered. Each bore must be final honed to remove all
stone or cutter marks and provide a smooth surface.
During final honing, each piston must be fitted in-
dividually to the bore in which it will be installed and
should be marked to insure correct installation.
After final honing and before the piston is checked
for fit, each cylinder bore must be thoroughly
washed to remove all traces of abrasive and then
dried. The dry bore should then be brushed clean
with a power-driven iibre brush. If all traces of abra-
sive are not removed, rapid wear of new pistons and
rings will result. Fit new pistons in the following
manner:
66.321973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
COOLING SYSTEM
CONTENTS
Subject
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION:
Cooling System and Water Pump
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .DIAGNOSIS: (Not Applicable)
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS:
Checking and Filling Cooling System
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Draining
andFlushingCoolingSystem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Conditioning the Cooling System
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Using and Testing Anti-Freeze Solutions
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fan Belt Adjustment or Replacement
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Radiator Thermostat Inspection and Test
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .MAJOR REPAIR:
Water Pump Removal
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Radiator
Removal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .SPECIFICATIONS:
Cooling System Capacities
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Page No.
68-32
6B-32
68-32
68-33
68-33
68-33
68-33
68-34
68-34
6B-35
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
COOLING SYSTEM AND WATER PUMPThe coiling system is of the conventional pressurized
type. A centrifugal pump arranged in timing case
serves to circulate the coolant.
When the thermostat is closed, the coolant will re-
turn to the pump via a by-pass for swift and uniform
warming up of the engine the coolant circulates
through the radiator, only when the engine has
reached normal operating temperature.
The heater system branches off the cooling system
ahead of thermostat in flow direction so that the
heater is in operation before engine has reached full
operating temperature.
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
Checking and Filling Cooling SystemThe coolant level should be checked only when the
engine is cold and only enough coolant should be
added to bring the level halfway between core andtank top. It is unnecessary and undesirable to remove
the radiator cap and check the coolant level each
time the car stops at a filling station for gasoline or
oil, since the engine is usually hot at such times.
WARNING: Never remove the radiator cap quickly
when engine is HOT Sudden release of cooling
sys-
tern pressure may cause the coolant to boil and some
of it may be ejected from the radiator
filler neck,
resulting in
inl’ury to persons or damage to the car
finish.If it is necessary at any time to remove the radiator
cap when engine is hot, rotate the cap counterclock-
wise until first stop is reached. Leave cap in this
position until all pressure in cooling system has been
released, then turn cap past the first stop and remove
it.
Draining and Flushing
Cooling SystemThe cooling system should be completely drained
and the recommended coolant installed every two (2)
years.To drain the cooling system, remove radiator cap,
remove lower radiator hose from the lower tank and
COOLING SYSTEM6B- 33
remove drain plug on right.side of cylinder block. Set
heater temperature control valve at full heat posi-
tion. After the cooling system is drained, and plugs
reinstalled, fill the system with clean water. Run the
engine long enough to open the thermostat for com-
plete circulation through the system, then com-
pletely drain the cooling system before sediment has
a chance to settle.
Conditioning the Cooling System
“Rust Inhibitor and Stop Leak”, or equivalent listed
under Group 8.800 is recommended for use in the
cooling system, particularly when preparing for in-
stallation of anti-freeze solution. This material stops
small seepage leaks, has rust preventive properties
and its soluble oil is effective in eliminating a squeal-
ing noise which sometimes develops at the water
pump seal washer. Instructions for its application are
printed on the conditioner bottle.
It is very important to make certain that the cooling
system is properly prepared before an anti-freeze so-
lution is installed, otherwise loss of solution through
leakage may occur or seepage may result in damage
to the engine. The cooling system should be drained
and flushed as described under Draining and Flush-
ing Cooling System. All joints should be checked for
leakage and corrected, and the conditioner described
above should be added with the anti-freeze solution.
Inspect the water pump, radiator core, heater and
defroster cores, water jacket plugs, and edge of cylin-
der head gaskets for evidence of water leaks. Tighten
all hose clamps in the cooling and heating systems
and replace any deteriorated hoses.
Using and Testing Anti-Freeze
Solutions
Inhibited year around (ethylene glycol type) engine
coolant solution which is formulated to withstand
two full calendar years of normal operation without
draining or adding inhibitors should be used at all
times. Freeze protection should be provided to pro-
tect against corrosion. When adding solution due to
loss of coolant for any reason or in areas where tem-
peratures lower than minus 20 degrees F. may be
encountered, a sufficient amount of any of the sev-
eral brands of year around coolant (Ethylene Glycol
base) compatible to GM Specification 1899-M avail-
able on the market should be used. Water or alcohol
base coolants are not recommended for this vehicle
at any time.
If for any reason water only is used as a coolant in
an emergency, it is extremely important that Buick
Heavy Duty Cooling System Protector and Water
Pump Lubricant or equivalent be added to the cool-
ing system as soon as possible. If any other cooling
System protector is used, be certain it is labeled toindicate that it meets General Motors Specification
GM 1894-M. It should be recognized that this is only
a temporary measure. The manufacture intends that
permanent type coolant solution be used year around
in the cooling system.
The cooling system should be completely drained
and the recommended coolant installed every two (2)years.It is advisable to test the anti-freeze solution at inter-
vals during the winter to make certain that the solu-
tion has not been weakened. Use only hydrometers
which are calibrated to read both the specific gravity
and the temperature, and have a table or other means
of converting the freezing point at various tempera-
tures of solution. Disregarding the temperature of
the solution when making the test may cause an error
as large as 30 degrees F. Care must be exercised to
use the correct float or table for the particular type
of anti-freeze being tested.
Fan Belt Adjustment or Replacement
A tight fan belt will cause rapid wear of the alterna-
tor and water pump bearings. A loose belt will slip
and wear excessively and will cause noise, engine
over-heating, and unsteady alternator output. A fan
belt which is cracked or frayed, or which is worn so
that it bottoms in the pulleys should be replaced. The
fan belt may be replaced by loosening the alternator
brace at alternator, slightly loosening the alternator
mounting bolts and moving alternator inward to pro-
vide maximum slack in the belt.
The alternator must be moved outward to adjust the
fan belt. After the generator brace and mounting
bolts are securely tightened, the fan belt tension
should be 45 lb. using Tensioner J-23600.
WARNING: Zfa
fan blade is bent or damaged in any
way, no attempt should be made to repair and reuse
the damaged part. A bent or damaged fan assembly
should always be replaced with a new
fal. assembly.
It is essential that fan assemblies remain in proper
balance and proper balance cannot be assured once
a fan assembly has been bent or damaged. A fan
assembly that is not in proper balance could fail and
fly apart during subsequent
we creating an ex-
tremely dangerous condition.
Radiator Thermostat Inspection and Test
A sticking radiator thermostat will prevent the cool-
ing system from functioning properly. If the thermo-
stat sticks in the open position, the engine will warm
up very slowly. If the thermostat sticks in the closed
position, the engine will overheat.
The thermostat may be removed for inspection and
DIAGNOSIS
SEQUENCE
1. Check and correct oil level. Refer to Specifications
for checking and refill procedures.
2. Check and correct vacuum line and fittings.
3. Check and correct manual linkage.
4. Road test car using all selective ranges, noting
when discrepancies in operation occur.
5. If engine performances indicates an engine tuneup
is required, this should be performed before road
testing is completed or transmission correction at-
tempted. Poor engine performance can result in
rough shifting or other malfunctions.
CHECKING PROCEDURESBefore diagnosis of any transmission complaint is
attempted, there must be an understanding of oil
checking procedure and what appearance the oil
should have. Many times a transmission malfunction
can be traced to low oil level, improper reading of
dipstick, or oil appearances; therefore, a careful anal-
ysis of the condition of oil and the level may elimi-
nate needless repairs.
When checking oil level in the Opel Three Speed
Automatic Transmission, the procedure outlined in
Specifications should be followed to obtain the most
accurate reading.
Also when the dipstick is removed, it should be noted
whether the oil is devoid of air bubbles or not. Oil
with air bubbles gives an indication of an air leak in
the suction lines, which can cause erractic operation
and slippage. Water in the oil imparts a milky, pink
cast to the oil and can cause spewing.
EXTERNAL OIL LEAKS
Determining source of oil leakBefore attempting to correct an oil leak, the actual
source of the leak must be determined. In many
cases, the source of the leak can be deceiving due to
“wind flow” around the engine and transmission.
The suspected area should be wiped clear of all oil
before inspecting for the source of the leak. Red dyeAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 7C- 81
is used in the transmission oil at the assembly plant
and will indicate if the oil leak is from the transmis-
sion.The use of a “Black Light” to locate the point at
which the oil is leaking is helpful. Comparing the oil
from the leak to that on the engine or transmission
dipstick, when viewed by Black Light, will determine
the source of the leak-engine or transmission.
Oil leaks around the engine and transmission are
generally carried toward the rear of the car by air
stream. For example, a transmission oil filler tube to
case leak will sometimes appear as a leak at the rear
of the transmission. In determining the source of a
leak, proceed as follows:
1. Degrease underside of transmission.
2. Road test to get unit at operating temperature.
3. Inspect for leak with engine running.
4. With engine off, check for oil leaks due to the
raised oil level caused by drain back.
Case Porosity RepairOpel Three-Speed Automatic Transmission external
oil leaks caused by case porosity can be successfully
repaired with the transmission in the car by using the
following recommended procedures:
1. Road test and bring the transmission to operating
temperature, approximately 180 degrees F.
2. Raise car on a hoist or jack stand, engine running,
and locate source of oil leak. Check for oil leaks in
low, drive, and reverse.
3. Shut engine off and thoroughly clean area to be
repaired with a suitable cleaning solvent and a
brush- air dry. A clean, dry soldering acid brush can
be used to clean the area and also to apply the epoxy
cement.
4. Using instructions of the manufacturer, mix a suf-
ficient amount of epoxy, BUICK Group 0.423, Part
No. 1360016, or equivalent, to make the repair. Ob-
serve cautions of manufacturer in handling.
5. While the transmission case is still HOT, apply the
epoxy to the area to be repaired. Make certain the
area to be repaired is fully covered.
6. Allow cement to cure for 3 hours before starting
engine.
7. Road test and check for leaks.