1972 FIAT 500 check oil

CHAPTER 11
THE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
11:1 Description
11:2 Battery
11:3 The generator
11:4 The starter
11:5 The control box
1 1 : 6 Fuses
1 1 : 7 Flasher unit
11:1 Description
All models covered by this manual have 12 volts
electrical systems in which the negative battery terminal
is earthed. There are three units in the regulator box to
control the charging circuit; a cut-out, a current regulator
and a voltage regulator. These are adjustable but it must
be stressed that accurate moving coil meters are required
when checking or altering the settings. Cheap and
unreliable instruments will make accurate adjustments
impossible.
There are wiring diagrams in Technical Data at the end
of this manual to enable those with electrical experience
to trace and correct wiring faults.
For t h e U.K. Market the headlamps are of the double
filament dipping renewable bulb type with adjustments
for individual beam settings.
The battery is located in the front compartment
forward of the petrol tank and the fuses to the rear o f the
petrol tank.
Detailed instructions for servicing the electrical equip-
ment will be found in this chapter, but it must be pointed
out that it is not sensible to try to repair that which is
seriously defective, electrically or mechanically. Such
equipment should be replaced by new units which can
be obtained on an exchange basis.
F500111
11 :8 Windscreen wipers
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
11:10 Panel and warning lights
11:11 The horn
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
1 1 : 1 3 Fault diagnosis
11.2 The battery
This of the 12-volt lead/acid type and has to meet
heavy demands for current particularly in the winter. To
maintain the performance of the battery at its maximum
it is essential to carry out the following operations.
Keep the top of the battery and surrounding parts dry
and clean, as dampness can cause leakage between the
securing clamps and the battery terminals. Clean off any
corrosion from the metal parts of the battery mounting
with diluted ammonia and paint them with an anti-
sulphuric paint. If the terminal posts are corroded,
remove the cables and clean w i t h diluted ammonia.
Smear the posts w i t h petroleum jelly before remaking the
connections and fit the terminals securely. High electrical
resistance due to corrosion at the terminal posts is often
responsible for lack of sufficient current to operate the
starter motor.
Ensure t h a t the filler plugs are in good condition and
show no signs of cracks. This may cause leakage of
electrolyte and consequent corrosion. Test the condition
of the cells after topping-up the electrolyte level with
distilled water to just above the tops of the separators as
shown in FIG 11 :2 . Never add neat acid. If it is
necessary to make a new electrolyte due to loss by
spillage add sulphuric acid to the
distilled water.
It is highly dangerous to add water to acid.

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

1
791011 8 234
11
10
16,15
14 13
1265
FIG 11:5 Components of starter
Key to Fig 11:5 1 Drive end head 2 Head shield 3 Frame 4 Switch 5 Commutator cover band
6 and 7 Pin and spring for lever 8 8 Starting engagement lever 9 Head shield 10 and 11 Head fixing tie rods and tubes
12 Pinion, complete 13 Starting engagement spring 14 Drive unit sleeve and free wheel hub 15 Armature
16 Commutator end head
Testing field coils:
When tested w i t h an ohmmeter the reading should be
8+.1—.3 ohms. Failing an ohmmeter use a 12-volt
supply and connect it in series w i t h an ammeter across
the field terminal and the yoke or body. The meter should
read approximately 2 amps. If there is no reading the
field coil winding has a break in it. If the reading is much
more than 2 amps or the ohmmeter records at much less
than 8 ohms it shows that field coil insulation has broken
down. Renewal of the field coils is a specialist operation
best left to a service station.
The armature:
Apart from reconditioning the commutator, there is
little which can be done to the armature itself. Never try
to straighten a bent shaft and do not machine the arma-
ture core. Armature windings are tested w i t h equipment
normally not available to the car owner. The only check
for a suspected faulty armature which the owner can do
is to substitute an armature which is known to be
satisfactory.
Generator bearings:
1 Commutator end head bearings. Remove the ball-
bearing outer race stop bracket mounting screw and
nut, ease o u t t h e stop brackets and the ballbearings.
2 Fan end head bearing. Remove the ballbearing retainer
mounting screw nuts and ease o u t t h e retainers and
the seals. Using a suitably sized drift remove the ball-
bearing.
114Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling
in both cases.
Reassembly and refitting the generator:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. The
following points should however be noted.
1 The commutator end head ballbearing outer race stop
bracket mounting screw nut must be tightened to a
torque wrench setting of .80 Ib ft.
2 The pulley and fan-to-generator armature shaft self-
locking nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib ft.
3 To assemble the commutator end bracket to the yoke,
partially withdraw the brushes and trap them in this
position by letting the springs bear on the sides of the
brushes. Fit the bracket to the armature shaft and when
it is about 1/2 inch from the yoke face, lift the springs
using a thin screwdriver or a piece of hooked wire and
this will let the brushes drop onto the commutator.
Check that the springs now bear correctly on the tops
of the brushes and push the bracket fully home.
4 Pack all ballbearings with Fiat Jota 3 grease or an
equivalent grade grease.
11:4 The starter motor
Operation:
When operating the starter hand lever through a
flexible coupling a lever is operated (see FIG 11:5)
which controls the pinion engagement with the flywheel.
As the lever completes its movement it closes the starter

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement

4
53 2 1
7
6
FIG 11 :6 Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
Key to Fig 11:6 1 Voltage regulator adjusting spring
2 Current regulator adjusting spring 3 Cutout adjusting
spring 4 Voltage regulator adjustment arm 5 Current
regulator adjustment arm 6 Cutout adjustment blade spring
7 Soldering of cutout shunt and series winding
FIG 11:7 Wiring diagram for checking the cutout
closing voltage
Key to Fig 1 1 : 7 GR Regulator GN 1.12.16 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.12.1 6.3 S V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) L 12 V, 3 to 5 W bulb
FIG 11:8 Wiring diagram for checking the reverse
current of cutout
Key to Fig 11:8 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.1 2.1 6.3 S B Battery, 50 Ah, fully charged
A Ammeter, asymmetrical scale 10-0-15 A V Voltmeter,
20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
116spring 13. Should any defect be found then the pinion
assembly must be renewed as one complete unit. After
examining to ensure that there are no defects thoroughly
clean using petrol.
Reassembling and refitting the starter:
In both cases this is a simple reversal of the dismantling
procedure. Grease t h e drive splines and the engagement
lever groove in the sleeve.
11:5 The control box:
Description:
The generator regulator fitted to the new 500 model
consists of three separate
units; voltage regulator,
current regulator, cut-out relay (see FIG 11 :6).
The voltage regulator and current regulator relays
comprise a U-shaped body one of whose arms is bent
to form a flange, whilst the other adjustment arm pro-
vides a stop for the hinge spring. The U-shaped body is
secured to the frame by the core threaded shank and
carries, on the flanged end, an armature supported by a
hinge spring which comprises a steel leaf and bi-metal
leaf overimposed in the current regulator and bi-metal
leaf in the voltage regulator. The armature carries the
movable contact.
Fixed contacts of both voltage and current regulators
are mounted on t w o blade springs which are secured to a
single bracket rivetted to the U-shaped adjustment arm.
The design of the t w o fixed contacts carrier blade springs
is such as to permit the adjustment of the contact
position by suitably bending the blade springs. The cut-
out is similar in design to the other two relays as shown
in FIG 11:6. Again the hinge spring is bi-metallic as in
the voltage regulator.
All the armatures are provided w i t h blade springs, so
that the tension may be adjusted to the required setting
value. This adjustment is obtained by bending the
adjustment arms.
The voltage regulator coil comprises a fine wire wind-
ing w i t h a great number of turns, shunt connected to the
generator.
The cut-out coil comprises a fine wire winding with a
great number of turns shunt connected to the generator,
and of a winding comprising a few turns of heavy gauge
wire, which is connected in series w i t h the generator
charge circuit (cut-out series winding).
The current regulator coil comprises a few turns of
heavy gauge wire which is series connected with the
generator charge circuit.
The generator regulator base has three terminals to
which the various cables are connected.
No. 51 — connection to generator positive terminal.
No. 67 — connection to generator field winding.
No. 30 — connection to electrical accessories.
The regulator cover is secured to the base w i t h a
rubber gasket placed in between which seals the unit
against the ingress of moisture or dust.
A regulation resistor is fitted under the base and is
secured to the voltage regulator and current regulator
relay core threaded shanks.

Lamp brilliance varies w i t h the speed of t h e car:
Check the condition of the battery. Examine the battery
connections. Make sure they are tight and renew faulty
cables.
11:10 Panel and warning lights:
All the gauges are clustered in a single instrument
mounted on the dashboard above the steering column.
Incorporated in this cluster is the parking light pilot light,
generator charge indicator, fuel reserve supply indicator,
low oil pressure indicator, and the speedometer w i t h
mileage recorder.
The parking lamp indicator glows green when the
ignition lock switch key is in either position 1 or 2 once
the toggle switch on the instrument panel has been
operated.
The generator charge indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on. It should be extinguished when
the generator output is sufficient for battery charge
(12.6 ± 0.2 volts) with the engine running at a speed
of 1100 rev/min and the headlights switched off.
The fuel reserve supply indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on and the amount of fuel in the
petrol tank has dropped to approximately .8 to 1.1
Imp. gallons.
The low oil pressure indicator shows red only when the
ignition is turned on and should be extinguished when
the oil pressure reaches 7.1 to 21.3 Ib/sq in, and opens
the sending unit contacts. Once the engine is at normal
operating temperature but at a speed below 1000 rev/
min the indicator might light up even the pressure is under
control and with normal operation.
All the bulbs fitted to the above described units are of
the tubular 2.5W type and to renew a bulb extract the
bulb holder from the rear of t h e instrument cluster and
release the bulb which is attached by a normal bayonet
coupling.
Fuel reserve supply indicator sender u n i t:
The fuel reserve supply indicator should be checked for
correct indication by allowing the fuel tank to empty and
then inserting .8 to 1.1 Imp. gallons at which stage the
light should extinguish. Any failure to do so should be
checked as follows:
1 Ensure that the indicator bulb operates correctly.
2 Check for complete circuit between the sender unit and
the indicator bulb.
3 If the sender unit float bracket is distorted the bulb
will
indicate a reserve supply of fuel greater or smaller than
specified. The bracket should be adjusted to give
correct indication of fuel level.
4 The sender unit could have been inadvertantly
damaged in which case the unit must be renewed.
11 :11 The horn
The horn circuit comprises the horn, push button at the
centre of the steering wheel and normal earth return
electrical circuit through the car body. One terminal is
connected to the battery whilst the other to the push
button on the steering wheel which when the button is
depressed the circuit will be closed so causing the horn
to operate.
F500
FIG 11 : 21 Number plate lamp
Key to Fig 11 : 21 A Lens and light cap mounting screws
B Lens
FIG 11 : 22 Horn (opened)
Key to Fig 11:22 1 Body 2 Diaphragm 3 Armature
4,5,6 Core 7 Cable: terminal-condenser-stationary contact
8 Cable: terminal-magnetizing coil end 9 Magnetizing coil
FIG 11 :23 Horn sound adjustment. Obtained by adjust-
ing the armature air gap
123

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty

FIG 12:1 Detail of right door (early type). Upper arrow
points to vent wing lock handle. Lower arrow points to
window regulator handle
FIG 1 2 : 2 Sedan right side door (later type). Front-hinged.
Door latch is of the triple acting type. Later (pull-out) type
interior lock handles have an escutcheon which is levered
out by means of t w o screwdrivers to expose the handle
pivot pin and spring
Cleaning imitation leather:
To keep the imitation leather clean wash in luke warm
water and a neutral soap applied with a soft cloth. Wipe
clean with a clean moistened cloth with no trace of soap
and finally rub with a clean dry cloth until the original
lustre is restored.
128
Chrome plated parts:
To ensure long life from the chrome plated parts these
should be periodically washed using a cloth dampened
with petrol and dried with a soft cloth. Rub with a cloth
moistened in clean oil especially around the edges of the
components and finally rub using a clean dry cloth until
all traces of oil have been apparently removed.
Glass panels:
The glass panels must be cleaned w i t h a chamois
leather or rag. Take care that no abrasive material is
allowed to be rubbed onto the glass otherwise it will be
scratched.
12:3 Door trim and accessories
The rear-hinged doors have welded upper and lower
hinge halves being joined by a fulcrum pin to the other
half of the hinge which is welded onto the body. Upon
reassembly of a hinge the fulcrum pins must be fitted with
the ball head uppermost. With front-hinged doors the
hinge is bolted to the body pillar.
Check strap (earlier models):
To limit the door opening, a rubber check strap is fixed
by four self-tapping screws of which two are located on
the door and t w o on the body. When a check strap is being
fitted the following points should be noted:
1 Always use sealing compound on the check strap
mounting holes to ensure a moisture t i g h t j o i n t .
2 Insert the screws in the plates and in the strap.
3 Always place a washer on each screw between the
body and the check strap, and also the door and check
strap. Tighten the screws fully.
Weather strip:
A one-piece moulded weather strip is fitted to the door
aperture and fixed by a special adhesive. Should the
weather strip become detached or a new one requiring to
be fitted proceed as follows:
1 Remove the old weather strip as necessary and thor-
oughly clean the door opening flange with petrol,
remove any rust spots and touch in the paint work.
2 Clean the new weather strips of their preservative or
the original from road dirt using petrol and thoroughly
wipe
clean.
3 Apply a coat of adhesive using a brush to the side to be
attached to the body. Allow to dry for the recom-
mended period of time and position the weather strip
on the door opening flange ensuring that it is not
distorted. The joint should be on the bottom side of
the rear end of the door opening. Apply a heavy
pressure on the weather strip starting from the centre
and working towards the ends.
Two rubber lining strips are located on the door flange
and these should be attached using the same procedure
detailed above.
Ensure that the bonding of the rubber weather strips
to both the door opening flange and the door panel is
thoroughly dry before the door is closed, otherwise this
could be the cause of subsequent water ingress.