a n 0—20 v o ltmeter. If the circuit is in order the meter
should read approximately 12-volts.
3 Battery to fuse box terminal 30. Connect the volt-
meter between the terminal 30 and earth. No reading
indicates a faulty cable or loose connection.
4 Fuse box. Connect the voltmeter between the other
auxiliary terminal 30 and earth. No reading indicates a
broken or loose connection.
5 Fuse box auxiliary terminal 30 to terminal
number 30 on ignition switch. Connect the meter
between terminal number 30 on the ignition switch
and earth. No reading indicates a damaged cable or
loose connection.
6 Ignition switch. Connect the meter between termi-
nal 15/54 and earth. Switch onto the ignition position,
when no reading indicates a fault in the switch.
7 Ignition switch to low-tension cable connection
on the coil (blue cable). Connect the meter
between ignition coil terminal (blue cable) and earth.
No reading indicates a damaged cable or loose con-
nection.
8 Ignition coil. Disconnect the black low-tension cable
connecting the coil to the distributor side terminal at
the coil and connect the meter between this terminal
and earth. No reading indicates a fault in the primary
winding of the coil and a replacement coil must be
fitted. If the reading is correct remake the connections
to the coil.
9 Ignition coil to distributor. Disconnect the thin
black low-tension cable at the side of the distributor
and connect the meter between the end of this cable
and earth. No reading indicates a damaged cable or
loose connections.
10 Contact breaker and capacitor. Connect the
meter across the contact breaker points. No reading
indicates a faulty capacitor.
Capacitor:
The best method of testing a capacitor (condenser) is
by substitution. Disconnect the original capacitor and
connect a new one between the low-tension terminal on
the side of the distributor and earth.
If a new capacitor is needed, fit a new one complete
w i t h bracket, but if necessary unsolder the original bracket
and solder it onto the new capacitor using as little heat as
possible. Capacitor capacity is .15-.20 microfarads.
3 : 5 Removing and dismantling distributor (sedan
and sports)
To remove the distributor proceed as follows:
1 Rotate the engine slowly until the distributor rotor arm
is opposite the brass segment in the distributor cap
connected to No. 1 plug lead. This will provide a datum
for replacement.
2 Disconnect the cable from the low-tension terminal on
the side of the distributor body. Mark position of distri-
butor on support. Release the distributor retaining nut
and washer from the underside of the top flange of the
distributor support and carefully lift away the dis-
tributor.
3 Pull off the rotor arm. Remove the insulated terminal
assembly from the side of distributor body. Release the
contact breaker carrier plate retaining screws and con-
denser flange screw from the outside of the distributor
F50049 body. Carefully lift out the contact breaker plate
assembly.
4 Before further dismantling note the relative positions of
the driving dog and the rotor arm driving slot at the top
of the distributor cam spindle. The driving dog is offset
and can only engage its driving spindle in one position.
Then when the cam assembly is fitted to the centrifugal
weights during reassembly the timing is not 180 deg.
out.
5 Take out the cam lubrication felt pad recessed in the
rotor arm housing on the end of the cam spindle.
Remove the retaining screw, carefully disengage the
springs and lift out the cam spindle. It should be noted
that there is a small retaining ball and spring located in a
drilling nearly at the top of the drive shaft spindle.
Carefully lift away the weights.
6 Thoroughly clean all parts and inspect for excessive
wear. The distributor cap must not be cracked or show
signs of tracking. The cap terminals, rotor and contact
breaker points can be cleaned with a very fine file.
Emerypaper must not be used. If the clearance between
the rotor and distributor cap segments exceeds .0118
inch both the rotor and distributor cap must be replaced.
Inspect the contact breaker arm rubbing block for exces-
sive wear and also the points for wear so that if the gap
exceeds the last setting limit of .0209 inch and adjust-
ment through the stationary contact carrier screw is no
longer possible (see FIG 3 : 2) , the contact breaker set
must be renewed.
If the distributor drive shaft side or vertical movement is
excessive the distributor must be renewed.
Weak centri-
fugal weight springs or damaged weights must be
renewed using original Fiat spares otherwise the auto-
matic ignition advance characteristics could be altered.
FIG 3 : 3 Ignition distributor in place on engine SPARK PLUG CABLES
IGNITION COIL CABLE!
DISTRIBUTOR CAP
DISTRIBUTOR BODY
GROUND CABLE
CONDENSER
DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT
LUBRICATION FITTING
DISTRIBUTORSUPPORT-TO--CRANKCASE NUT
[MOUNTING SCREWDISTRIBUTOR
DISTRIBUTOR SUPPORT
FIG 3 : 4 Use of fixture Ap.5030/1 to check ignition
timing
Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling but
the following points should be noted:
1 Lubricate the parts of the centrifugal advance mecha-
nism, the drive spindle and the part of the shaft which
accepts the cam w i t h Fiat VS oil.
2 Ensure that upon reassembly the slot in the rotor arm
housing matches the distributor driving dog. Lubricate
the felt pad in the rotor arm housing.
3 Fit the distributor back onto its support gently rotating
the rotor arm so that the drive dog engages w i t h the
drive shaft mating flange. Provided the crankshaft has
not been turned the rotor arm should finish up pointing
to No. 1 cylinder segment in the distributor cap. Tighten
the distributor retaining nut, refit the distributor cap and
leads to the spark plugs and the LT lead to distributor
body terminal.
4 Add a few drops of oil to the distributor shaft lubrication
fitting (see FIG 3:3).
3 : 6 Removing and dismantling distributor
(station wagon)
The distributor is located towards the top rear of t h e
engine and is bolted direct onto the crankcase rear cover as
shown in FIG 1 : 2 . It is driven direct by a gear in mesh w i t h
a corresponding gear on the camshaft. The basic design of
the distributor is the same as that for the sedan and sports
engine, except that the distributor cap has been redesigned,
there is a gear instead of the dog
drive and no distributor
support. To remove and dismantle the distributor proceed
as previously described taking great care about marking
the location of the distributor to rear cover and rotating
the engine until No. 1 cylinder is on compression. This will
ensure that reassembly is straightforward without loss of
ignition timing.
503:7 Timing the ignition
It is necessary to retime the ignition should the distribu-
tor shaft or camshaft have been removed. To retime the
ignition proceed as follows:
1 On the timing sprocket cover fit Fiat tool AP.5030/1 as
shown in FIG 3 : 4. Ensure No. 1 cylinder is on the
compression stroke with both valves closed. Rotate the
crankshaft until the mark on the centrifugal filter cover
lines up w i t h the 10° mark on the fixture. This setting
corresponds to a 10° static advance BTDC.
2 Check t h a t the points gap is correctly set between
.018 and .020 inch. Turn the distributor shaft until the
rotor points in the direction of No. 1 segment in the
cap and the points are just opening.
3 Without disturbing the distributor shaft, insert the lower
coupling on its toothed end, install the support and
tighten the locknut. Secure the distributor to the sup-
port using the mounting screw.
To check that the distributor is properly timed to the
engine and the centrifugal automatic advance is operating
correctly giving a
total advance of 18° to 28° respectively
proceed as follows:
1 Connect Fiat timing tester AP.5030 with a 220-volt-
single-phase power outlet fitted with a good earth
connection. It is important that the tester is earthed
before it is allowed to operate. Also ensure that the
tester earth terminal is connected to a bare metal part
of the vehicle.
2 Remove No. 1 spark plug lead, insert the strobe light
adapter and reconnect the spark plug lead. Using a
piece of white chalk mark the TDC position on the
centrifugal filter cover.
3 Start the engine and aim the strobe light beam towards
the chalk mark drawn on the centrifugal filter cover.
With the engine running slowly the mark on the centri-
fugal cover must correspond wi th the first white line
on the fixture (10°). Slowly increase the speed of the
engine so operating the automatic advance and the
chalk mark should move counterclockwise until at
maximum speed it reaches the second white mark on
the fixture.
It should be noted that the ignition timing for the model
500 sports engine the static advance is 10°, an automatic
advance of 12° giving a total advance at maximum engine
speed of 2 2 ° .
Should Fiat fixture AP.5030/1 not be available the
advance position may be set as follows:
1 Turn over the
engine until No. 1 piston is on the com-
pression stroke w i t h both valves closed.
2 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the reference
mark cast on the centrifugal filter cover is set .5118 to
.5512 inch ahead of the arrow cast on the timing
sprocket cover. This will give a static advance setting
of 10° BTDC.
3 Proceed as directed for ignition distributor timing and
mounting described earlier in this section.
3 : 8 Sparking plugs
The sparking plugs must be regularly inspected, cleaned
and the electrode gap adjusted to a gap of .019 to .023
inch.
The inspection of the deposits on the electrodes is par-
ticularly useful because the colour and type of deposit
indicates the condition inside the combustion chamber
and may be used as a guide to engine tuning.
Before the spark plugs are removed b l o w away any
loose dirt from the plug recesses using a compressed air
jet or tyre pump. Store the plugs in the order of removal
ready for inspection.
Examine the gaskets and if they are about half their
thickness they may be used again otherwise they must be
replaced.
Inspect the electrode end of the plugs and note the
type and colour of the deposit. Normally it should be
powdery and range from b r o w n to a greyish tan in colour.
There will also be slight wear of the electrodes and the
general effect described is one which comes from mixed
periods of high-speed and low-speed driving. Cleaning
and resetting the gap is all that will be necessary.
If the deposits are white or yellowish they indicate long
periods of constant-speed driving or much low-speed
city driving. Again, the treatment is straightforward.
Dry, black, fluffy deposits are usually the result of
running with too rich a mixture. Incomplete combustion
of the petrol air charge may also be a cause and this might
be traced to a defect in the ignition system or excessive
idling.
Overheated sparking plugs have a white blistered look
about the centre electrode and the side electrode may be
badly eroded. This may be caused by poor cooling, wrong
ignition timing or sustained high speeds under heavy load.
To clean the sparking plugs effectively they should be
cleaned using an abrasive blasting machine and tested
under pressure once the electrodes have been reset. File
these until they are clean, bright and the faces parallel and
set the gap to .019 to .023 inch. Do not try to bend the
centre electrode.
Before replacing the plugs use a wire brush to clean the
threads taking care that the electrodes are not touched.
Thoroughly clean the spark plug in petrol, and dry using a
compressed air jet or a tyre pump. If difficulty is found in
screwing the plugs into the cylinder head by hand run a
tap d o w n the threads to clear away any carbon. If a tap is
not available use an old sparking plug with crosscuts d o w nthe threads. Finally tighten the plugs to a torque wrench
setting of 18 to 21 Ib ft.
Sparking plug leads:
The spark plug leads and the lead from the coil to the
distributor cap must be regularly checked for cracking of
the insulation and also correct seating in the distributor
cap and coil top. It is recommended that silicone grease is
smeared around the sockets before the leads are replaced
to ensure no moisture may enter causing difficult starting.
3 : 9 The distributor driving spindle (sedan and
sports engine)
If for any reason, the driving spindle has been removed
from its housing in the crankcase, it must be correctly
meshed w i t h the camshaft gear otherwise it
will be impos-
sible to set the ignition timing.
3:10 Fault diagnosis
(a) Engine w i l l not fire
1 Battery discharged
2 Distributor contact points dirty, pitted or maladjusted
3 Distributor cap dirty, cracked or tracking
4 Carbon brush inside distributor cap not touching rotor
5 Faulty cable or loose connection in low-tension circuit
6 Distributor rotor arm cracked
7 Faulty coil
8 Broken contact breaker spring
9 Contact points stuck open
(b) Engine misfires
1 Check 2, 3, 4, and 7 in (a)
2 Weak contact breaker spring
3 High-tension plug and coil leads cracked or perished
4 Sparking plug(s) loose
5 Sparking plug insulation cracked
6 Sparking plug gap incorrectly set
7 Ignition timing too far advanced
FIG 4 : 1 Engine cooling air circulation system
Key to Fig4:1 A Engine cooling air intake B Carburetter air suction cleaner C Centrifugal fan and air conveyor
D Oil pan cooling air passage E Warmed air admission hose to car interior F Engine air outlet control shutter, wide open
position (at 178° to 189°F — 81° to 87° C) G Air outlet thermostat
54
OIL DRAIN PLUG COOLING AIR DUCTS
FIG 4 : 3 Oil sump with blower cowling. Arrows indicate
air outlets
BLOWER
SHAFT GENERATOR ARMATURE
VENT TUBE
FIG 4 : 4 Cooling blower mounted on generator shaft
extension
4 : 2 Air outlet thermostat and shutter
Refer to FIGS 4 :1 and 4 :2 where it will be seen that
the thermostat is located on the righthand side of the
engine cowling. The thermostat should start opening the
engine heated air outlet shutter when the temperature of
the air reaches between 158-165°F (178-185°F station
wagon) and the shutter should be in the wide open posi-
tion when the air has reached a temperature of between
178-189°F (196-207°F station wagon).
When the engine cooling air control system is being
inspected or serviced the following points should be
noted:
1 Check that when the shutter is in the closed
position the edge mates perfectly with the cowling
seating.
2 Ensure that the shutter can swivel freely.
3 Check that the initial thermostat movement is
between .0197 to .0394 inch.
4 Generally check the engine cowling for distortion, bad
jbint sealing or cracks.
56
Key to Fig 4 : 6 1 Circular seat i n cylinders 2 Head
ducts 3 Pierced screws
FIG 4 : 6 Diagram of the heating system safety device
(sedan and station wagon) FIG 4 : 5 Location of cooling air outlet thermostat and
shutter
ENGINE COWLING.
THERMOSTAT
LINK
AIR OUTLET SHUTTER
SHUTTER RETURN SPRING
4 : 3 Tension adjustment, thermostat to shutter
link:
The tension may be varied by using the shims which are
located between the upper shank of the thermostat and
the cover shoulder washer. Before any adjustment is made
ensure that the shutter is able to move freely and that the
return spring has not stretched or fractured. Refer to
FIG 4:5 which shows the location of the shutter and the
return spring.
CHAPTER 5
THE CLUTCH
5:1
5:2
5:3
5:4Description
Removal and installation
Dismantling and inspection of clutch cover
Assembly and adjustment
5:1 Description
New 500, 500D sedan and early station wagon:
The clutch is a single plate dry disc type operating on
the inner face of the flywheel. FIG 5 :1 shows a longitudi-
nal cross section of the clutch as it is assembled in the
power unit.
A sheet metal clutch cover is attached to the flywheel
by means of six screws and this encloses a clutch driven
plate, the pressure plate and six springs. Three withdrawal
levers are fitted so that the inner ends are attached to a
carrier ring through which three springs hold the levers in
place and the carrier ring in contact with the pressure plate,
(see FIG 5 : 1) . Release of the driven plate is obtained
through a throw-out ring fitted with a central carbon
thrust ring which acts on the withdrawal levers carrier
ring. This is controlled by the clutch pedal through suitable
linkage to the control fork.
When the clutch pedal is operated, the throw-out ring,
together with the carbon thrust ring is pushed towards the
flywheel and this exerts a pressure on the w i t h d rawal
levers carrier ring and the lever inner tips. The lever outer
tips lift the pressure plate so disengaging the clutch.
F50059
Each of the three withdrawal levers is mounted on a bolt
together with an adjustment nut which is inserted in the
pressure plate. The levers are kept in their location by a
guide which is formed in the pressure plate.
500 F and L sedans and late station wagon:
A single plate dry type clutch is fitted with a diaphragm
pressure spring. This design of clutch differs from the con-
ventional clutch because the pressure coil springs and
throw-out mechanism components are replaced by a
single diaphragm spring.
The new system offers certain advantages which are as
follows:
1 The load on the clutch pedal does not increase as the
clutch disc lining wears but remains constant through-
out the life of the clutch.
2 Due to the special shape and location of the diaphragm
spring, which offers a constant force on the pressure
plate throughout the clutch life, the clutch does not slip
even though the driven plate linings may be worn. 5:5
5:6
5:7
5:8Installation of clutch on flywheel
Pilot bushing
Withdrawal mechanism
Fault diagnosis
lubricated using Fiat Jota 3 grease.
1 Pressure plate—boss outer faces.
2 Clutch cover—withdrawal lever fulcrum.
3 Withdrawal lever stopnuts—contact face.
4 Withdrawal lever carrier ring — lever contact face.
5 Crankcase end pilot bushing lubricated with Fiat KG.15
grease.
6 Lubricate contact faces of driven plate and clutch shaft.
To install the clutch assembly proceed as follows:
1 Ensure t h a t there is no grease or oil on the faces of the
driven plate or flywheel face and position with the
raised part of the hub towards the transmission unit.
2 Locate Fiat tool A.70085 (diaphragm clutch) or
A . 6 2 0 2 3 (coil spring clutch) or a suitably sized drift,
through the driven plate hub and position in crankshaft
pilot bushing. Gradually tighten the clutch unit
mounting screws working diagonally and finally tighten
to a torque wrench setting of 5.8 to 7.2 Ib ft.
5 : 6 Pilot bushing
Whenever the clutch unit is being renewed or over-
hauled it is essential that the crankshaft pilot bush is
checked for excessive wear or damage. Also check that
FIG 5 : 7 Side sectional view of clutch and throw-out
mechanism - 5 0 0 Sedan (11OF), late Station Wagon. Value
1.5 mm (.059 inch) refers to the clearance to be obtained
through the adjustment of clutch throw-out yoke rod
F50063
The withdrawal mechanism comprises a forked lever
(see FIG 5 : 8), which is located in the clutch housing and 5:7 Withdrawal mechanism
New 500 and 500D models:
the spigot on the bush end is in a good serviceable con-
dition. The maximum clearance between the clutch shaft
spigot and the bush should not be greater than .0059 inch
otherwise the pilot bush must be renewed. To remove the
pilot bush use Fiat puller A.40006/1 /2 or a small universal
internal bush and bearing removal tool.
To fit a new bush use a suitably sized drift and drive the
bush fully home and lubricate well with Fiat KG.15 grease. FIG 5 : 9 Clutch controls and adjusting mechanism LEVER RETURN SPRING
ADJUSTABLETIE R O DCLUTCH RELEASE LEVER NUT A N D JAM NUT
FOR TIE R O D CLUTCH RELEASE BOWDEN FIG 5:8 Clutch throw-out mechanism
CLUTCHSHAFT
LEVER-AND-SHAFT
RELEASE
RELEASETHRUST RING
FORK-TO-THRUSTFASTENERS RING
CARBON
RING
WITHDRAWAL FORKCLUTCH
FIG 5:10 Clutch throw-out mechanism
Key to Fig 5:10 1 Clutch throw-out yoke
2 Yoke return spring 3 Rod nut and counternut
4 Adjustable rod 5 Clutch throw-out
onto this shaft the outer operating lever is attached by
means of a key.
A return spring connected to the outer operating lever
is anchored onto the gearbox casing. When the clutch is in
its normal position the spring keeps the central thrust
carbon ring away from the withdrawal levers carrier ring.
The carbon ring is pressed against the carrier ring by the
throw-out ring which is connected to the forked lever as
shown in FIG 5 : 8 .
The clutch pedal must have free travel of 1"3/8 to 1"9/16 inch.
Should any adjustment be necessary release the locknut
from the adjustable tie rod and adjust the position of the
tie rod until the correct adjustment is obtained. Tighten the
locknut.
500F. L and later station wagon:
The free travel of the clutch pedal should be 19/32 to
1"3/16 inch which corresponds to a clearance of .059 inch
between the throw-out sleeve and the ring (see FIG 5 : 7).
Should any correction be necessary release the adjust-
able rod locknut (see FIG 5:10), and reposition the
adjustable rod using the rod nut until the recommended
clutch pedal travel is obtained. Retighten the locknut.
5 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Drag or spin
1 Oil or grease on driven plate lining
64
(g) Driven plate fracture
1 Check 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Drag and distortion due to hanging gearbox in plate hub (f) Tick or knock
1 Worn first motion shaft spigot or bearings
2 Badly worn splines in driven plate hub
3 Release plate out of line
4 Faulty Bendix drive on starter motor
5 Loose flywheel
(e) Rattle
1 Check 3 in (c)
2 Worn release mechanism
3 Excessive backlash in transmission
4 Wear in transmission bearings
5 Release bearing loose on fork (d) Judder
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Pressure plate not parallel with flywheel face
3 Contact area of driven plate linings not evenly distribu-
ted
4 Bent first-motion shaft
5 Buckled driven plate
6 Faulty power unit mountings
7 Worn suspension mountings
8 Weak rear springs
9 Loose drive shafts (c) Slip
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Check 2 in (b)
3 Weak pressure springs or diaphragm spring (b) Fierceness or snatch
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Worn clutch linings 2 Misalignment between engine and gearbox first motion
shaft
3 Driven plate hub binding on first motion shaft splines
4 Binding of first motion shaft spigot bearing
5 Distorted clutch plate
6 Warped or damaged pressure plate or clutch cover
7 Broken driven plate linings
8 Dirt or foreign matter in clutch