1972 FIAT 500 Rear drive shaft removal

PRIMARY SHAFT-TO-CLUTCH
SHAFT MOUNTING PINCLUTCH SHAFT SEAL PRIMARY SHAFT WITH
1st, 3 r d A N D 4 t h SPEED
GEAR CLUSTER
2 n d SPEED
DRIVE GEARPRIMARY SHAFT
FRONT BALL BEARINGPRIMARY SHAFT
REAR BALL BEARING
PRIMARY
SHAFT-TO-CLUTCH
i SHAFT JOINING SLEEVEJOINING SLEEVELOCKRING
SPEED SELECTOR LEVER
CLUTCH SHAFT
LAYSHAFT WITH BEVEL PINION
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE GEAR
2 n d SPEED ENGAGEMENT
SLIDING SLEEVE
2 N D SPEED DRIVEN GEAR
LAYSHAFT FRONT BALL
BEARING
3 r d SPEED DRIVEN GEARHUB FOR
SLEEVE
3rd AND 4th/
SPEED ENGAGEMENT
SLIDING SLEEVE4 t h SPEED
DRIVEN GEARLAYSHAFT REAR ROLLER BEARING
LAYSHAFT-TO-PINION
ADJUSTMENT WASHER 1st SPEED AND)
REVERSE SLIDING GEAR
FIG 6:1Gearbox-differential unit longitudinal section
On the primary shaft extension outside the main central
body is mounted the second-speed driving gear. The
primary shaft is supported at both ends by ballbearings
whilst the clutch shaft rotates in a bronze spigot bush which
is press fitted into the end of the crankshaft. An oil seal is
fitted in the clutch shaft passage seat in the c o n n e c t i o n
support. The layshaft, together with the drive pinion of the
differential unit is supported at the front by a ballbearing
race. The layshaft carries the pinion adjustment shim, the
fourth-speed driven gear and its bushing, the hub and
relevant engagement sleeve for the t h i r d - and fourth-
speed w i t h first-speed and reverse-speed, the third-speed
gear and bushing and, outside the casing the second gear
and bushing, the hub with relevant second-speed engage-
ment sleeve and the speedometer drive gear.
The gears are operated by a gear selection lever mounted
on the tunnel situated between the two front seats. This
operates through a rod actuating the selector and shifting
mechanism which is housed in the gearbox casing cover.
Refer to FIG 6 :3 where it will be seen th a t the positioning
of the striker rods is ensured by a spring-loaded ball-
bearing. The risk of engaging two gears at the same time is
eliminated by three rollers which slide in suitable slots
machined in the rod (see FIG 6 : 4).
The differential unit and the final drive gear train are
housed in the t w o semi-covers which
have previously
been described, the final drive pinion being integral with
the layshaft. The differential casing may be split into t w o
halves. The bevel gear is fitted on one of the halves and is
66
secured by the same screws joining the two halves
together. The differential side gears are internally splined
into which are located the splined axle shaft ends which
are able to slide by means of a specially designed slip joint.
Two specially shaped rubber oil boots are inserted on the
swing axle shafts and fit over the side gear extensions to
ensure that there is no loss of lubricant or the ingress
of dirt.
The transmission and differential unit to suit the station
wagon differs from the sedan in that the transmission to
engine mounting plate and the bellhousing are modified to
suit the engine repositioned on its side.
6 : 2 Removal of gearbox/differential unit:
The complete unit may be removed whilst the engine
remains in situ and to remove this unit proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the battery positive cable and jack up the
rear of t h e vehicle and place on firmly based stands.
2 Disconnect all control cables and wiring from the
starter motor and the clutch lever. Remove the starter
motor, the clutch lever reaction spring and the clutch
cable support on the gearbox.
3 Remove the three bolts securing each of the driving
shaft flanges to the flexible coupling at the wheel ends
and carefully take out the inner spring.
4 Disconnect the shifter rod from the gearshift lever at the
gearbox extension and also the
speedometer drive
cable. Remove also the flywheel undercover. Place a
suitable support under the engine.

3 Check the layshaft and the primary shaft between
centres and using a dial gauge ensure that there is no
distortion. The out of true reading for bearing seats
should be less than .0008 inch. Inspect the splines and
ensure that the side and outerfaces are not indented.
Replace if there are signs of wear. Also inspect the
reverse shaft to ensure that it is perfectly smooth and
not showing signs of pitting or partial seizure.
4 Carefully inspect all gear teeth for signs of excessive
wear or damage. The contact faces must be smooth and
show no signs of indentation marks. Also check that
the backlash between the gears, when correctly
mounted on the surface plate is not greater than .0039
inch. The maximum wear limit is .0079 inch. Check that
the quick engagement front teeth of the second-, third-
and fourth-speed gears are not damaged or excessively
worn. Renew if there are signs of gearchange lever
misuse.
5 Inspect the sliding sleeves and the relevent hubs, ensure
that all the working surfaces are perfectly smooth. The
clearance between the mating parts should not be
greater than .0059 inch. Also inspect the meshing teeth
and ensure that they are in good condition.
6 Check that the gear shifting selector forks are not dis-
torted and that the striker rods freely slide in their seats
in the gearbox casing.
7 Carefully inspect that all the oil seals are in perfect con-
dition and if there is any doubt they should be renewed.
8 Inspect the striker rod locking balls and the safety rollers
and ensure that they slide freely in their seatings. Also
check the ball load spring efficiency and if this shows
signs of weakness then it should be renewed. Any
faults with these items will cause difficulty in engaging
gears or autodisengagement during engine acceleration.
6 : 4 Reassembly—gearbox
To reassemble the components to the gearbox ensure
that all components are thoroughly clean and then pro-
ceed as follows:
1 Press t h e pinion rear roller bearing onto the layshaft.
Install the layshaft in the casing, and at the same time
fit the adjustment shim, the fourth-speed driven gear
together w i t h its bush, the sleeve and hub for third and
fourth gear engagement, the first-speed and reverse
driven gear and the third-speed driven gear with its
hub.
2 Install the front layshaft ballbearing securing the
bearing retainment plate w i t h the screws and finally
lock the screws in position.
3 Insert the primary shaft together with the first, third
and fourth driving gear train in the gearbox housing
and slide t h e rear bearing onto the shaft. Push the
input shaft forward to enable the clutch shaft coupling
to be inserted in t h e rear and to be pulled up the
primary shaft by means of the pin. Do not forget the
retaining ring.
4 Slide the primary shaft backwards so pushing the rear
bearing into its bore. Refit the front bearing onto the
primary shaft.
5 On the layshaft insert the second-speed driven shaft
and bush, the second gear sliding dog sleeve and the
hub. Also insert the second-speed striker rod and the
first-speed fork. Do not forget to fit the safety roller
into its seating.
70
6 Slide the second-speed driving gear onto the primary
shaft. Place the engagement fork on the third- and
fourth-speed engagement sliding sleeve, and insert
the striker rod, lock the relevent fork and fit the safety
roller.
7 Insert the third safety roller and install the reverse shaft
and insert the reverse gear cluster onto it and secure
the shaft by tightening its block bolt. Install the reverse
striker rod w i t h its relevent fork.
8 Now refit the speedometer drive worm gear onto the
layshraft. Tighten the nuts on the primary shaft and the
layshaft, not forgetting to interpose the plain washer
between the speedometer driving worm and the nut,
to a torque wrench setting of 1 8.1 Ib ft to 25.3 Ib ft
(primary shaft) and 28.9 to 36.2 Ib ft (layshaft). It is
recommended that the input shaft and layshaft are
locked together by engaging t w o gears at the same
time. Finally, fit the splitpins.
9 Lock the shifter forks onto their shafts by tightening
their respective bolts and bend up the special locking
plates. Install the three positioning balls and relevant
springs into their bores and refit the cover plate.
10 Install the casing cover together with its relevant
gasket. This will enable correct positioning of the shift
shaft lever so that it engages in the outer ends of the
shifter shafts protruding from the gearbox casing.
11 Install the speedometer drive support on the gearbox
casing and refit the upper gearbox cover.
For subsequent differential operations and adjustments
see Sections 6:6.
6:5 Dismantling—differential and final drive
For the removal of the differential and final drive unit
from the gearbox refer to Section 6:3. To dismantle the
differential assembly
proceed as follows:
1 Remove the retaining ring 2 (see FIG 6 : 7) retaining
the splined sleeve 4 and slide the sleeve off the drive
shaft.
2 Remove t h e retaining covers 7 and the oil boots all
together with the bushes and seals, adjuster ring lock
rings 13, adjuster rings housing 14, and bearing
adjuster and roller bearing outer races.
3 Separate the differential housing halves by unscrewing
and removing the six bolts that keep both the halves and
the crownwheel together. It is advisable to mark the
respective components to ensure correct matching
upon reassembly.
4 Remove the differential pinion shaft retainer ring, also
the differential pinions 10 by removing the shaft and
withdrawing the two axle shafts 1.
5 Remove the differential side gears 6 and relevent thrust
rings 8.
6 Using a press remove the differential bearing inner
races from their seats on the carrier halves.
7 Thoroughly clean all parts and dry using a compressed
air jet.
Inspection:
The components of the differential unit must be
thoroughly inspected for correct operation and to deter-
mine the presence of any wear, damage or other irregulari-
ties. To check the items concerned proceed as follows:
1 Check thoroughly the idle pinion carrier shaft for signs

TOOL A 62039
TOOLA. 62040 PIN WRENCH A. 52022
FIG 6:15 Adjusting ring gear-to-pinion backlash and
differential bearing play, using special wrench A.52022
reading on the dial gauge should be between .0031 to
.0047 inch. The actual clearance is adjusted by
screwing in one adjusting nut and screwing out the
other by the equivalent amount using Fiat spanner
A.52022 as shown in FIG 6:15.
4 Remove Fiat tool A.62041 and using Fiat support
A.62040 mount the special dynamometer A.95697 and
adaptor on the axle shaft. Rotate the axle shaft several
turns so seating the bearings and then check using
the dynamometer the rotation torque.
5 If necessary tighten or slacken the adjusters until the
specified torque of 1.01 ± .07 lb ft is obtained. This
operation must be very carefully carried out because if
one adjuster is set differently with respect to the other,
a variation in ring gear to pinion backlash may take
place, resulting in a variation of rotation torque. After
any adjustments always recheck on the ring gear to
pinion backlash and if necessary readjust and then
repeat the rotation torque check.
6 Finally check the tooth contact between the pinion
and ring gear as detailed in the following instructions:
Check and adjustment of tooth contact between
pinion and ring gear:
1 Carefully apply to the ring gear teeth a thin layer of
engineers' blue and gently rotate the differential whilst
holding the axle shaft firmly but allowing them to slip
slightly so as to have the unit working under load
conditions.
2 A contact impression will be left on the ring gear teeth
and the contact will be correct when the drive pinion
tooth contact pattern is evenly distributed on the ring
gear teeth as shown in FIG 6:16. Should the tooth
contact be incorrect the following observations should
be noted.
Excessive contact on tooth flank. Too deep
meshing — move pinion out from ring gear by reducing
thickness of shim.
Excessive contact on tooth heel. Too slight
meshing—move pinion in towards ring gear by
increasing thickness of shim.
74
6 : 8 Replacement of gearbox—differential unit
Installation is the reverse procedure to removal of the
unit from the vehicle as described in Section 6:2.
However, the following points should be noted:
1 Ensure that the clutch driven disc hub is correctly
aligned with the clutch shaft pilot bush.
2 The complete transmission unit should be carefully
pushed towards the engine and the clutch shaft
inserted into the driven disc hub splines and finally
home into the pilot bush. Extreme care must be taken
to ensure that no weight is placed on the clutch shaft
otherwise distortion may take place.
3 Carefully connect the gearbox rear housing to the
engine crankcase by using the studs, t w o of which
have special location dowels fitted. Screw home
finger tight the gearbox/differential to body to front
support mounting screws inserting the fibre washers.
Lower the hydraulic garage jack and pull it away from
underneath the vehicle. Screw in the four lower
mounting nuts and tighten to a torque wrench setting
of between 18.1 to 21.7 Ib f t.Finally tighten the front
support screws.
4 Reconnect the gear shift control rod and the speedo-
meter drive cable. Insert the springs between the axle
shafts and wheel drive shaft and tighten the
three
mounting screws of each splined sleeve on the
flexible joint to a torque wrench setting of 20.3 Ib ft.
5 Refit the flywheel housing cover. Replace the starter
motor together with its relevant cover and tighten the
two mounting nuts to a torque wrench setting of
18.1 to 21.7 Ib ft. Reconnect the starter control rod,
the t w o starter cables, the clutch control tie rod and
hook up the return spring and secure the clutch
control cable retainer bracket to the gearbox casings.
Reconnect the cable to the battery positive terminal
post
6 Lower the vehicle to the floor gently and then give a
thorough road testing.
6 :9 Swing axle shafts and slip joints
Description:
The t w o axle shafts are connected to the differential
unit through specially designed slip joints which allow
the shafts to swing and slide in the splined housing in
the differential side gear. At the other end, the axle shafts
are connected to the wheel drive shaft flexible joints
using a sliding sleeve. Excessive contact on tooth face. Too slight
meshing—move pinion in towards ring gear by in-
creasing thickness of shim.
Excessive contact of tooth toe. Too deep meshing
—move pinion out from ring gear by reducing thickness
of shim.
With all the above detailed cases, to adjust the pinion
by replacing the shim, the differential unit and drive
pinion shaft must be dismantled. This means that when
the unit is reassembled after the necessary adjustments
have been made, the backlash and bearing rotation
torque must be repeated.

CHAPTER 7
REAR SUSPENSION AND WHEELS
7:1
7:2
7:3
7:4Description
Removal of rear suspension assembly
Servicing swinging arms
Coil springs
7:1 Description
The rear wheels are independently sprung by means of
coil springs and V-shaped swinging arms acting on coil
springs and telescopic double acting hydraulic shock
absorbers. The swinging arms are m o u n t e d at their inner
ends on 'estendblocks', the coil spring is fitted at the outer
end of the swinging arm. At the wheel end of the suspen-
sion arm is attached a steel pressing to which the brake
backplate and wheel bearing housing are bolted so
forming a swinging unit to which is attached the road
wheel.
The inner pivots are so located vertical wheel move-
ments do not influence the drive shaft length which
means that there is no need to fit a splined joint at the
wheel end. Two taper roller bearings which are separated
by a specially designed collapsible spacer are located in
the rear wheel bearing housing and this carries the axle
shaft. The outer end of the axle shaft is flanged and it
is to this flange that the brake drum is bolted. The splined
inner end carries a rubber cushioned coupling to which
the drive shaft flange is attached.
7 : 2 Removal of rear suspension assembly
1 Jack-up the vehicle and place on firmly based stands.
Remove the road wheel on the side from which the
suspension unit is to be removed.
F50079 7:5
7:6
7:7
7:8Installation of rear suspension assembly
Checking and adjusting rear wheel toe-in
Modifications
Fault diagnosis
2 Using a garage hydraulic jack support the swinging
arm to facilitate the removal of the upper shock
absorber mounting nut which is located inside the
vehicle on the floor. To gain access to the nut remove
the rear wheel housing linings.
3 Unhook the parking brake shoe control lever return
spring.
4 Remove the three screws securing the drive shaft
flange to the flexible coupling. Pull back the sleeve and
remove the inner spring.
5 Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, remove the filter
and plug the delivery hole in the brake f l u i d reservoir
and disconnect the flexible brake pipe from the
bracket on the body floor.
6 Disconnect the parking brake control tie rod by first
removing the cotter pin and removing the cable eye
from the pin on the shoe control lever. Release the
cable adjustment nuts and free the cable from the
fairlead on the swinging arm.
7 Using the hydraulic jack carefully lower the swinging
arm, fully retract the shock absorber by pushing in the
outer cylinder and carefully pull out the coil spring
together with its mounting rubber rings.
8 Remove the self-locking nut securing the swinging
arm to the internal support welded on the floor.
Extract the mounting pin and note the number and
arrangement of shims between the bushings and the
bracket. This will facilitate reassembly.

indicates a break in the cable from the generator to
regulator. Repeat the test on terminal 67. Finally,
remove the temporary link from the generator. If the
readings are correct, test the regulator as described in
Section 11:5.
Removing generator:
1 Disconnect the leads from the generator.
2 Remove the drive belt as previously described.
3 Release t h e rear mounting bracket at the side of the
power unit.
4 Remove the air cooling ducting from around the fan
and generator area and lift away the unit.
5 Release the blower from the end of the armature shaft
and finally, the mounting bolts from the air ducting.
Dismantling generator:
1 Release the pulley self-locking nut and slide the pulley
off the armature shaft.
2 Remove the t w o Woodruff keys on armature shaft.
3 Unscrew the t w o through bolt nuts and pull out the
bolts.
4 Partially remove the commutator end head to the point
where the brushes are. s t i l l seating on the commutator.
Using a piece of hooked wire relieve the load of the
springs on the brushes by arranging the spring ends
on the brush sides. The brushes will be locked in their
holders and cannot be chipped by striking against the
armature shaft during the commutator end head
removal.
5 Gently ease the commutator and fan end heads apart
and, slide out the armature.
Servicing brushes:
Lift the brushes up in the boxes and hold them in that
position by letting each brush spring bear on the side of
its brush. Fit the commutator end bracket over the
commutator end of the armature shaft and release the
brushes by hooking up the springs using a thin screw
driver. Hold back each spring in turn and move the brush
by pulling gently on the flexible connector. If the brush
moves sluggishly remove it and polish the sides using a
smooth file. Before this operation is actually carried out it
is suggested that the brush is marked before removal so
that it is replaced in its original working position.
inch,The minimum permissible length of a brush is
so renew any t h a t are less than this figure. Test the brush
springs using a spring tension scale. New springs should
have a tension of 1.3 to 1.6 Ib. In service this value could
fall slightly before performance is affected. Always bed in
new brushes by wrapping fine sandpaper round the
commutator, pressing down on the brush and rotating
the commutator under it, or draw the paper t o o and f r o .
If new brushes are fitted always fit genuine Fiat replace-
ments.
Servicing the commutator:
A commutator in good condition should be smooth and
free from pitting or signs of the segments burning. Clean
with a rag moistened in petrol. If necessary, polish using
a fine glasspaper whilst rotating the armature. Never use
emerycloth.
If the commutator is badly worn it may be skimmed
using a centre lathe. Use a high rotational speed and take
F500113
FIG 11 :3 Components of generator
Key to Fig 11 : 3 1 Terminal 51 2 Bearing outer ring
retainment terminal nut 3 Commutator end head 4 Brushes
5 Terminal 67 6 Frame 7 Blower end head
8 Bearing retainer nuts and screws 9 Pulley retainment nut
10 Pulley 11 Head mounting tie rods and nuts
12 Armature 13 Blower retainment nut
FIG 11 :4 Commutator end head of generator DSV
90.12.16.3 S
a light cut using a sharp tool. Remove only enough metal
to clean up the commutator face and then polish with
fine glasspaper. To undercut the insulation between the
segments, it is suggested that a hacksaw blade is ground
on its sides until it is the thickness of the insulation and
carefully work between each pair of segments until the
insulation has been cut to a depth of .0394 inch below the
surface.
A thorough visual inspection may determine the cause
of armature failure. Breaks in armature windings cause
burnt commutator segments. Short-circuited windings
are discoloured by overheating, with badly burnt
commutator segments.