1971 FIAT 500 mount

10:9 Brake fluid reservoir
The reservoir is located in the front compartment to the
side of the fuel tank as shown in FIG 10:9. Should it be
necessary to detach the fluid outlet line from the reservoir
the outlet hole must be blanked off using a tapered
wooden peg of suitable length so that the cap may be
replaced to prevent the ingress of foreign matter into
the reservoir and the absorbtion of moisture, oil or petrol
vapours which would alter the properties of the hydraulic
fluid.
A special filter is fitted into the top of the reservoir
through which all fluid used for topping-up the reservoir
must pass to ensure utmost inner cleanliness of the
hydraulic system.
10:10 Bleeding the system
This is not a routine maintenance operation and is only
necessary if air has entered the hydraulic system because
parts have been dismantled or because the f l u i d level in
the reservoir has dropped so low that air has been drawn
into the main feed pipe to the master cylinders.
1 Fill the reservoir w i t h Fiat 'Blue Label' hydraulic fluid.
During the bleeding operation fluid will be used and
constant topping-up of the supply reservoir will be
needed. If this is not done it is possible for air to enter
the master cylinder main feed pipe which will nullify
the operation and necessitate a fresh start.
2 Attach a length of rubber or plastic tubing to the
bleeder screw on the rear wheel cylinder furthermost
from the master cylinder. Immerse the free end of the
tube in a small volume of hydraulic brake fluid in a
clean jar.
3 Open the bleed screw one turn and get a second
operator to press down slowly on the brake pedal. After
a full stroke let the pedal return without assistance,
pause a moment and repeat the d o w n stroke. At first
there will be air bubbles issuing from the bleed tube,
but when fluid alone is ejected, hold the pedal firmly
down on the floor panel and tighten the bleed screw.
Repeat this operation on the other rear brake and then
repeat the operation on the two front brakes.
4 On completion, top-up the fluid in the reservoir to the
correct level. Discard all dirty fluid. If fluid is perfectly
clean, let it stand for twenty four hours to become
clear of air bubbles before using it again.
10:11 Hand parking brake
Normally with the new 500 Sedan model automatic
brake adjusting device, adjustment of the rear brakes
will take up excessive handbrake travel.
If there is excessive travel on the handbrake of the
Sedan model at any time, or in the case of Station Wagon
model even after the rear brakes have been manually
adjusted, suspect worn brake shoe linings or stretched
handbrake cables. Examine the linings and fit replace-
ment shoes if necessary. Check the action of the hand
parking brake again and if there is still too much travel
before the brakes are applied it is permissible to take up as
follows:
1 It is essential to ensure that the rear shoes are correctly
adjusted as described in Section 10:2.
2 Apply the hand parking brake lever until the pawl
engages with the ratchet at the second notch.
F500
FIG 10:11 An exploded view showing the components of
the tandem master cylinder
3 Jack up the rear of t h e vehicle and place on firmly
based stands.
4 Locate the cable adjusting nuts as shown in FIG
10:10 and adjust these until it is just possible to turn
the road wheels by heavy hand pressure. It is important
that both wheels offer the same resistance to turning
to obtain correctly balanced braking.
5 Return the lever to the OFF position and check that
both wheels are quite free to rotate. If a brake tends to
bind, remove the wheel and brake drum and check
the brake shoe pull-off spring is correctly fitted and
that the lever return spring and operating lever are
functioning correctly. Also check for suspected
seizure of the wheel cylinder. When the fault has
been rectified refit the drum. Readjust and recheck.
Removing the hand parking brake cable:
1 Chock the front wheels and release the handbrake.
Raise t h e rear of the vehicle and place on firmly based
stands.
2 Disconnect the cables from the operating levers on
each rear brake unit. Release each cable from its body
mounted bracket.
3 Inside the car, remove the rear seat and the seat belt
fitting from the floor. As necessary, remove the centre
console and the carpet to give access to the cover plate
on the centre tunnel and remove it.
4 Remove the handbrake lever assembly, detach the
cable compensator and pull the cables through the
holes in the box panel.
5 Reassembly is the reverse procedure to removal.
Ensure t h a t the cable is well lubricated and finally
readjust as previously described.
10:12 The dual circuit braking system
This is used on later model cars. A tandem master
cylinder provides t w o entirely separate hydraulic circuits,
one for the front and one for the rear brakes. The
components of the master cylinder are shown in the
exploded view of FIG 1 0 : 1 1 . The principle of operation is
quite straightforward and easy to understand.
169

CHAPTER 11
THE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
11:1 Description
11:2 Battery
11:3 The generator
11:4 The starter
11:5 The control box
1 1 : 6 Fuses
1 1 : 7 Flasher unit
11:1 Description
All models covered by this manual have 12 volts
electrical systems in which the negative battery terminal
is earthed. There are three units in the regulator box to
control the charging circuit; a cut-out, a current regulator
and a voltage regulator. These are adjustable but it must
be stressed that accurate moving coil meters are required
when checking or altering the settings. Cheap and
unreliable instruments will make accurate adjustments
impossible.
There are wiring diagrams in Technical Data at the end
of this manual to enable those with electrical experience
to trace and correct wiring faults.
For t h e U.K. Market the headlamps are of the double
filament dipping renewable bulb type with adjustments
for individual beam settings.
The battery is located in the front compartment
forward of the petrol tank and the fuses to the rear o f the
petrol tank.
Detailed instructions for servicing the electrical equip-
ment will be found in this chapter, but it must be pointed
out that it is not sensible to try to repair that which is
seriously defective, electrically or mechanically. Such
equipment should be replaced by new units which can
be obtained on an exchange basis.
F500111
11 :8 Windscreen wipers
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
11:10 Panel and warning lights
11:11 The horn
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
1 1 : 1 3 Fault diagnosis
11.2 The battery
This of the 12-volt lead/acid type and has to meet
heavy demands for current particularly in the winter. To
maintain the performance of the battery at its maximum
it is essential to carry out the following operations.
Keep the top of the battery and surrounding parts dry
and clean, as dampness can cause leakage between the
securing clamps and the battery terminals. Clean off any
corrosion from the metal parts of the battery mounting
with diluted ammonia and paint them with an anti-
sulphuric paint. If the terminal posts are corroded,
remove the cables and clean w i t h diluted ammonia.
Smear the posts w i t h petroleum jelly before remaking the
connections and fit the terminals securely. High electrical
resistance due to corrosion at the terminal posts is often
responsible for lack of sufficient current to operate the
starter motor.
Ensure t h a t the filler plugs are in good condition and
show no signs of cracks. This may cause leakage of
electrolyte and consequent corrosion. Test the condition
of the cells after topping-up the electrolyte level with
distilled water to just above the tops of the separators as
shown in FIG 11 :2 . Never add neat acid. If it is
necessary to make a new electrolyte due to loss by
spillage add sulphuric acid to the
distilled water.
It is highly dangerous to add water to acid.

indicates a break in the cable from the generator to
regulator. Repeat the test on terminal 67. Finally,
remove the temporary link from the generator. If the
readings are correct, test the regulator as described in
Section 11:5.
Removing generator:
1 Disconnect the leads from the generator.
2 Remove the drive belt as previously described.
3 Release t h e rear mounting bracket at the side of the
power unit.
4 Remove the air cooling ducting from around the fan
and generator area and lift away the unit.
5 Release the blower from the end of the armature shaft
and finally, the mounting bolts from the air ducting.
Dismantling generator:
1 Release the pulley self-locking nut and slide the pulley
off the armature shaft.
2 Remove the t w o Woodruff keys on armature shaft.
3 Unscrew the t w o through bolt nuts and pull out the
bolts.
4 Partially remove the commutator end head to the point
where the brushes are. s t i l l seating on the commutator.
Using a piece of hooked wire relieve the load of the
springs on the brushes by arranging the spring ends
on the brush sides. The brushes will be locked in their
holders and cannot be chipped by striking against the
armature shaft during the commutator end head
removal.
5 Gently ease the commutator and fan end heads apart
and, slide out the armature.
Servicing brushes:
Lift the brushes up in the boxes and hold them in that
position by letting each brush spring bear on the side of
its brush. Fit the commutator end bracket over the
commutator end of the armature shaft and release the
brushes by hooking up the springs using a thin screw
driver. Hold back each spring in turn and move the brush
by pulling gently on the flexible connector. If the brush
moves sluggishly remove it and polish the sides using a
smooth file. Before this operation is actually carried out it
is suggested that the brush is marked before removal so
that it is replaced in its original working position.
inch,The minimum permissible length of a brush is
so renew any t h a t are less than this figure. Test the brush
springs using a spring tension scale. New springs should
have a tension of 1.3 to 1.6 Ib. In service this value could
fall slightly before performance is affected. Always bed in
new brushes by wrapping fine sandpaper round the
commutator, pressing down on the brush and rotating
the commutator under it, or draw the paper t o o and f r o .
If new brushes are fitted always fit genuine Fiat replace-
ments.
Servicing the commutator:
A commutator in good condition should be smooth and
free from pitting or signs of the segments burning. Clean
with a rag moistened in petrol. If necessary, polish using
a fine glasspaper whilst rotating the armature. Never use
emerycloth.
If the commutator is badly worn it may be skimmed
using a centre lathe. Use a high rotational speed and take
F500113
FIG 11 :3 Components of generator
Key to Fig 11 : 3 1 Terminal 51 2 Bearing outer ring
retainment terminal nut 3 Commutator end head 4 Brushes
5 Terminal 67 6 Frame 7 Blower end head
8 Bearing retainer nuts and screws 9 Pulley retainment nut
10 Pulley 11 Head mounting tie rods and nuts
12 Armature 13 Blower retainment nut
FIG 11 :4 Commutator end head of generator DSV
90.12.16.3 S
a light cut using a sharp tool. Remove only enough metal
to clean up the commutator face and then polish with
fine glasspaper. To undercut the insulation between the
segments, it is suggested that a hacksaw blade is ground
on its sides until it is the thickness of the insulation and
carefully work between each pair of segments until the
insulation has been cut to a depth of .0394 inch below the
surface.
A thorough visual inspection may determine the cause
of armature failure. Breaks in armature windings cause
burnt commutator segments. Short-circuited windings
are discoloured by overheating, with badly burnt
commutator segments.

1
791011 8 234
11
10
16,15
14 13
1265
FIG 11:5 Components of starter
Key to Fig 11:5 1 Drive end head 2 Head shield 3 Frame 4 Switch 5 Commutator cover band
6 and 7 Pin and spring for lever 8 8 Starting engagement lever 9 Head shield 10 and 11 Head fixing tie rods and tubes
12 Pinion, complete 13 Starting engagement spring 14 Drive unit sleeve and free wheel hub 15 Armature
16 Commutator end head
Testing field coils:
When tested w i t h an ohmmeter the reading should be
8+.1—.3 ohms. Failing an ohmmeter use a 12-volt
supply and connect it in series w i t h an ammeter across
the field terminal and the yoke or body. The meter should
read approximately 2 amps. If there is no reading the
field coil winding has a break in it. If the reading is much
more than 2 amps or the ohmmeter records at much less
than 8 ohms it shows that field coil insulation has broken
down. Renewal of the field coils is a specialist operation
best left to a service station.
The armature:
Apart from reconditioning the commutator, there is
little which can be done to the armature itself. Never try
to straighten a bent shaft and do not machine the arma-
ture core. Armature windings are tested w i t h equipment
normally not available to the car owner. The only check
for a suspected faulty armature which the owner can do
is to substitute an armature which is known to be
satisfactory.
Generator bearings:
1 Commutator end head bearings. Remove the ball-
bearing outer race stop bracket mounting screw and
nut, ease o u t t h e stop brackets and the ballbearings.
2 Fan end head bearing. Remove the ballbearing retainer
mounting screw nuts and ease o u t t h e retainers and
the seals. Using a suitably sized drift remove the ball-
bearing.
114Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling
in both cases.
Reassembly and refitting the generator:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. The
following points should however be noted.
1 The commutator end head ballbearing outer race stop
bracket mounting screw nut must be tightened to a
torque wrench setting of .80 Ib ft.
2 The pulley and fan-to-generator armature shaft self-
locking nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib ft.
3 To assemble the commutator end bracket to the yoke,
partially withdraw the brushes and trap them in this
position by letting the springs bear on the sides of the
brushes. Fit the bracket to the armature shaft and when
it is about 1/2 inch from the yoke face, lift the springs
using a thin screwdriver or a piece of hooked wire and
this will let the brushes drop onto the commutator.
Check that the springs now bear correctly on the tops
of the brushes and push the bracket fully home.
4 Pack all ballbearings with Fiat Jota 3 grease or an
equivalent grade grease.
11:4 The starter motor
Operation:
When operating the starter hand lever through a
flexible coupling a lever is operated (see FIG 11:5)
which controls the pinion engagement with the flywheel.
As the lever completes its movement it closes the starter

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement

4
53 2 1
7
6
FIG 11 :6 Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
Key to Fig 11:6 1 Voltage regulator adjusting spring
2 Current regulator adjusting spring 3 Cutout adjusting
spring 4 Voltage regulator adjustment arm 5 Current
regulator adjustment arm 6 Cutout adjustment blade spring
7 Soldering of cutout shunt and series winding
FIG 11:7 Wiring diagram for checking the cutout
closing voltage
Key to Fig 1 1 : 7 GR Regulator GN 1.12.16 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.12.1 6.3 S V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) L 12 V, 3 to 5 W bulb
FIG 11:8 Wiring diagram for checking the reverse
current of cutout
Key to Fig 11:8 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.1 2.1 6.3 S B Battery, 50 Ah, fully charged
A Ammeter, asymmetrical scale 10-0-15 A V Voltmeter,
20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
116spring 13. Should any defect be found then the pinion
assembly must be renewed as one complete unit. After
examining to ensure that there are no defects thoroughly
clean using petrol.
Reassembling and refitting the starter:
In both cases this is a simple reversal of the dismantling
procedure. Grease t h e drive splines and the engagement
lever groove in the sleeve.
11:5 The control box:
Description:
The generator regulator fitted to the new 500 model
consists of three separate
units; voltage regulator,
current regulator, cut-out relay (see FIG 11 :6).
The voltage regulator and current regulator relays
comprise a U-shaped body one of whose arms is bent
to form a flange, whilst the other adjustment arm pro-
vides a stop for the hinge spring. The U-shaped body is
secured to the frame by the core threaded shank and
carries, on the flanged end, an armature supported by a
hinge spring which comprises a steel leaf and bi-metal
leaf overimposed in the current regulator and bi-metal
leaf in the voltage regulator. The armature carries the
movable contact.
Fixed contacts of both voltage and current regulators
are mounted on t w o blade springs which are secured to a
single bracket rivetted to the U-shaped adjustment arm.
The design of the t w o fixed contacts carrier blade springs
is such as to permit the adjustment of the contact
position by suitably bending the blade springs. The cut-
out is similar in design to the other two relays as shown
in FIG 11:6. Again the hinge spring is bi-metallic as in
the voltage regulator.
All the armatures are provided w i t h blade springs, so
that the tension may be adjusted to the required setting
value. This adjustment is obtained by bending the
adjustment arms.
The voltage regulator coil comprises a fine wire wind-
ing w i t h a great number of turns, shunt connected to the
generator.
The cut-out coil comprises a fine wire winding with a
great number of turns shunt connected to the generator,
and of a winding comprising a few turns of heavy gauge
wire, which is connected in series w i t h the generator
charge circuit (cut-out series winding).
The current regulator coil comprises a few turns of
heavy gauge wire which is series connected with the
generator charge circuit.
The generator regulator base has three terminals to
which the various cables are connected.
No. 51 — connection to generator positive terminal.
No. 67 — connection to generator field winding.
No. 30 — connection to electrical accessories.
The regulator cover is secured to the base w i t h a
rubber gasket placed in between which seals the unit
against the ingress of moisture or dust.
A regulation resistor is fitted under the base and is
secured to the voltage regulator and current regulator
relay core threaded shanks.

WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR ASSY
WIPER MOTOR SCREWS
WIPER MOTOR BRACKET
FIG 11:15 Arrangement of windshield wiper unit on
vehicle
B M INT F
SC12 V
31
D
A
SWITCH PARKING
0 ON
SWITCH LEVER POSITIONS
FIG 11:16 Windshield wiper wiring diagram
Key to Fig 11 :16 A Series winding B Shunt winding
D Switch M Motor S Additional winding F INT
C =Terminals
120signal lamp pairs. The flasher unit connections are in
FIG 11:14 and the unit is of the hot wire type.
Faulty operation of flashers:
In cases of trouble check the bulb for broken filaments.
Refer to the wiring diagrams in Technical Data and check
all flasher circuit cables and connections. Check the
appropriate fuse. Switch on the ignition and check w i t h
a voltmeter between flasher unit positive terminal and
earth to see if battery voltage is present. Connect together
flasher unit positive terminal and L and operate the
direction indicator switch. If the flasher lamps now light,
the flasher unit is defective and must be renewed. It is not
possible to dismantle and repair a faulty flasher unit.
Before removing make a note of the connections so that
they will be replaced correctly when the new unit is being
installed.
Before making the connections it is advisable to check
the circuits to ensure that the new flasher unit is not
damaged by wrong connection. Test by joining the
cables normally connected to the unit and operate the
switch. If the connections are wrong the appropriate
fuse will blow but no damage will be done to the flasher
unit.
Never insert terminal L directly to earth without having
first connected in series the bulbs specified, otherwise
the flasher unit will be damaged. For the same reason
terminal L must never be shorted to ground nor must there
by any short circuits in any of the leads from the L
terminal to the bulbs. The flasher unit must never receive
blows of any kind since it is a very delicate component
and easily damaged.
11:8 Windscreen wipers
Description:
The windscreen wiper assembly comprises a motor
unit that drives t w o wiper blades through a reduction
gearing and mechanical linkage. The reduction gear
includes a worm screw on the motor armature shaft and a
helical pinion. The motor, left blade pivot and linkages
are mounted on a sheet metal bracket, whilst the right
blade pivot is connected to the main drive link. When
assembled to the vehicle the right blade pivot is fixed
directly onto the body. The unit is provided w i t h an
automatic parking device which ensures that the blades
return to their correct park position. The w
indscreen wiper
is- controlled by a lever switch with three separate
positions on earlier models or a simple on-off switch on
later models.
Maintenance:
Maintenance is confined to the changing of the wiper
blades when they have deteriorated and occasional
lubricating of the mechanical linkage.
Wiper unit faulty operation :
1 It is important that the wiper unit assembly is correctly
fitted to the body otherwise distortion of the wiper
mounting bracket can occur which will cause
abnormal stresses on the pivot and linkages resulting
in irregular and difficult blade sweep.
2 If the blades keep on sweeping at a reduced speed
although the switch lever has been pressed to the

parking position the trouble will be found in the sliding
sector which fails to open the switch D (see FIG
11 :16) . Check by removing the four motor cover
mounting screws and uncover the sliding sector. If
possible suitably bend the sector to bring it against
into contact with the rod tip of switch D.
3 If the automatic parking of the blades does not occur
when the switch lever is fully depressed to the parking
position but the motor stops when the switch is
operated the cause of the trouble is that the switch D
is not closing and consequently no current is flowing
between the terminals C and INT. This will probably
be due to dirt lodged between the movable contact
and the fixed contacts of switch D. Thoroughly wash
the components with petrol and if necessary reface
the contacts using a very fine file.
4 Should the motor unit be noisy in operation although
still operating reliably the noise is probably due to the
reduction gear operation, whereby the pinion and
worm are excessively worn or a tooth chipped. The
motor unit must be renewed as motor unit parts are
not available in service.
5 If the switch lever is pushed upwards to the 'on'
position or depressed downwards to the Parking
position and the wiper is still inoperative thoroughly
check all terminal connections for tightness and
cables for damage which if all appear to be correct the
failure of the wiper to operate indicates an internal
fault of the motor unit which
should be repaired or
renewed as necessary.
Removal and refitting the motor:
Remove the wiper arms and the electrical connections
to the motor. Dismantling is a straightforward operation
providing that as all items are removed so they are
inspected and a note made of their locations. However,
reassembly requires more care and the following
procedure should be adopted.
1 Mount the wiper unit onto the body by fully tightening
the nuts fixing the pivots onto which the arms are
fitted. Ensure t h a t the rubber sealing bushes between
the pivots and body are correctly assembled to prevent
water ingress. Slightly lubricate with glycerine.
2 Secure the mounting bracket lower edge to the body
by means of the special square bracket. It is important
not to distort the mounting bracket and ease of
assembly is ensured by elongated holes in the square
bracket. By suitable adjustment the linkages will not
be subjected to distortion or abnormal stresses during
operation.
3 Fit the motor unit to the mounting bracket tightening
the screws and reassemble the main link to the pivot
lever. Ensure t h a t the l o c k i n g of the fastener on the
pivot lever is secure so that it does not become loose
during operation.
4 Remake all the electrical connections and run the
motor for a short time whilst checking all the switch
positions including the automatic parking. It is at this
position that the wiper blades and arms are assembled
to the wiper mechanism.
5 Onto the pivots, install the shims, snap ring, wiper arm,
plain washer and lockwasher. Fully tighten the nuts
with the wiper arms in the parked position.
F500
FIG 11 :17 Headlamp removal
Key to Fig 11:17 1 Screw for vertical beam adjustment
2 Screw for horizontal beam adjustment 3 Headlamp
locating hook 4 Headlamp retaining ring and spring
5 Lamp unit 6 Bulb spring retainers 7 Bulb
8 Junction block
6 Ensure that the wiper arms can be tilted 100 deg.
downwards without striking against the cowl or front
compartment lid. Also ensure that the blade pressure
on the glass is 10.6 to 12.3 oz.
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
Description:
The lighting system comprises t w o headlights with
double filament bulbs of 45 watts for main beam and
40 watts for dip. Headlight control is operated through
the outer light switch below the steering wheel after the
toggle switch at the centre of the instrument panel has
been operated.
A double filament bulb for the front parking and
direction indicator lights is located below the headlights:
alternatively, the parking light may be incorporated in the
headlamp unit. The bulb is of 5 watt rating for the parking
lights and 20 watts for the direction indicator lights.
Two side direction indicator lamps are fitted with 2.5
w a t t b u l b s . The rear number plate is illuminated by a 5
watt bulb operated from the main lighting circuit.
Two three purpose rear light units are fitted and are
provided with a one single filament 20 watt bulb for the
direction indicator and one double filament bulb of 5 watt
rating for the parking circuit and 20 watt for stoplights.
Headlamp removal:
The headlamp on earlier cars may be removed from the
front panel by slightly depressing the lens and rotating the
unit counterclockwise through 15 deg. on later cars a
retaining spring is unhooked inside the front compart-
ment and the lamp can then be lifted out (FIG 11 :17).
121