1969 FORD MUSTANG check engine light

03-08-02
Ford Design Integral Power Steering Gear

03-08-02

-INPUT SHAFT

OUTLET PORT

INLET PORT

CONTROL VALVE HOUSING

SECTOR SHAFT COVER

SECTOR SHAFT ADJUSTMENT SCREW

LOCK NUT

IDENTIFICATION TAG

SECTOR SHAFT

FIG.
1—Power
Steering Gear
G1545- A

IN-VEH1CLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

VALVE SPOOL

CENTERING CHECK

1.
Install a 0-2000 psi pressure

gauge Tool T56L-33610-D in the pres-

sure line between the power steering

pump outlet port and the integral

steering gear inlet port.

2.
Make sure that the valve on the

gauge is in the fully open position.

3.
Check the fluid level in the reser-

voir and fill it to proper level with the

specified fluid.

4.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering wheel from stop-to-stop, to

bring the steering lubricant up to nor-

mal operating temperature. Stop the
engine and recheck the reservoir. Add

fluid if necessary.

5.
With the engine running at ap-

proximately 1000 rpm and the steer-

ing wheel centered, attach an inch-

pound torque wrench to the steering

wheel retaining nut. Apply sufficient

torque to the torque wrench in each

direction, either side of center, to get

a gauge reading of 250 psi.

6. The torque reading should be the

same in both directions when 250 psi

is reached. If the difference between

the readings exceeds 4 in-lbs, the

steering gear must be removed and the

valve centering shim removed from the

valve housing and a thicker or thinner
shim installed. Only one shim is to be

used. If the steering effort is heavy,

the shim thickness should be in-

creased. Shim thickness should be de-

creased if the steering effort is light to

the left.

The out of vehicle procedure for

valve centering check is the same as

for the in vehicle except the torque

and simultaneous pressure reading

must be made at the right and left

stops instead of either side of center.

STEERING GEAR

ADJUSTMENTS

During the vehicle breaking-in peri-

od, it is probable that some of theprocarmanuals.com

04-03-06

Rear Axles — Integral Carrier Type

04-03-06

9. Install a new integral nut and

ivasher on the pinion shaft. (Apply a

small amount of lubricant on the

washer side of the nut.)

10.
Hold the flange with the tool

shown in Fig. 9 while the nut is being

tightened.

11.
Tighten the pinion shaft nut,

rotating the pinion occasionally to in-

sure proper bearing seating, (Fig. 6)

and take frequent preload readings

until the preload is at the original rec-

orded reading established in step 3.

12.
After original preload has been

reached, tighten the pinion nut slowly,
until an additional preload of 6 to 12

in-lbs has been added.

The preload should not exceed the

amount shown above, or bearing fail-

ure may result.

Under no circumstances should the

pinion nut be backed off to lessen pre-

load. If this is done, a new pinion

bearing spacer must be installed. (In

addition, the U-joint flange must

never be hammered on, or pneumatic-

-tools used.)

13.
Remove the oil seal replacer

tool from the transmission extension
housing. Install the front end of the

drive shaft on the transmission output

shaft.

14.
Connect the rear end of the

drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange,

aligning the scribe marks made on the

drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-

joint flange (Fig. 14).

15.
Check the lubricant level. Make

sure the axle is in running position.

Add whatever amount of specified lu-

bricant is required to reach the lower

edge of the filler plug hole, located in

the carrier casting or housing cover.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

REAR AXLE HOUSING

REMOVAL

1.
Raise the vehicle and support it

with safety stands under the rear

frame member.

2.
Drain the lubricant from the

axle.

3.
Make scribe marks on the drive

shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint

flange to insure proper position of the

drive shaft at assembly (Fig. 14). Dis-

connect the drive shaft at the drive

pinion flange.

4.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorbers.

5.
Remove the wheels, brake drums

and both axle shafts as outlined in the

foregoing Section 2.

6. Remove vent hose front vent

tube (Corbin clamp) and remove vent

tube from brake tube junction and

axle housing.

7.
Remove the hydraulic brake T-
fitting from the axle housing. Do not

open the hydraulic brake system lines.

Remove the hydraulic brake line from

its retaining clip on the axle housing.

8. Remove both axle shaft oil seals

with the tools shown in Fig. 8.

9. Remove both brake backing

plates from the axle housing and sus-

pend them above the housing with me-

chanic's wire. The hydraulic brake

SCRIBE MARKS

5/16-24

4 REQ'D.

12-15
LB.
FT.

U-BOLT - 4529 2 REQ'D.

E 1783-A

FIG. 14—Drive Shaft-to-Axle

U-Joint
Connection

El231-A

FIG. 73—Rear Axle Installation—Typical
lines and the parking brake cables are

still attached to the brake carrier

plates.

10.
Support the rear axle housing

on a jack, and then remove the spring

clip nuts. Remove the spring clip

plates (Fig. 13)

11.
Lower the axle housing and re-

move it from under the vehicle.

12.
If the axle housing is being re-

placed, transfer all the differential and

pinion parts to the new housing. See

Section 4, Major Repair Operations.

INSTALLATION

1.
Raise the axle housing into posi-

tion so that the spring clip plates can

be installed. On a Montego or Fair-

lane,
position the spring upper insula-

tors and retainers between the axle

housing and springs and install the

lower insulators. Torque the spring

clip nuts to specification.

2.
Place the brake backing plates in

their normal position on the axle

housing. Use new gaskets on each side

of the brake backing plates.

3.
Install new axle shaft oil seals

with the tool shown in Fig. 8. Soak

the new seals in light weight engine oil

(SAE 10) for 1/2 hour before install-

ing them. Installation without use of

the proper tool will distort the seal

and cause leakage. Coat the outside

edges of the new oil seal with a non-

hardening type of sealer such as Per-

matex No. 2 or its equivalent.

4.
Install the axle shafts, brake

drums and wheels as outlined in Sec-

tion 2.

5.
Attach the hydraulic brake line

T fitting to the axle housing, and se-

cure the hydraulic brake line in its re-

tainer on the axle housing.

6. Install vent tube to brake tubeprocarmanuals.com

05-02-04
General Clutch Service

05-02-04

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

RELEASE BEARING

Wipe all oil and dirt off the release

bearing. The bearing is prelubricated

and should not be cleaned with sol-

vent.

Inspect the bearing retainer for

loose spring clips and rivets.

Inspect the release bearing assembly

for burrs which may cause the assem-

bly to drag on the transmission bear-

ing retainer. Any such burrs should be

cleaned up with fine crocus cloth. If

burrs are found, inspect the transmis-

sion input shaft bearing retainer for

evidence of scoring. Any scoring

should be polished out with crocus

cloth. Coat the bearing retainer with a

thin film of lithium-base grease

(C3VY-19586-A). Prior to release

bearing installation, apply a light film

of lithium base grease (C3VY-

19586-A) on both sides of the release

lever fork where it contacts the release

bearing hub and retaining springs.

Apply a light film of lithium base

grease (C3VY-19586-A) plate to the

release bearing surface that contacts

the pressure plate fingers. Carefully

fill the grease groove inside the bear-

ing hub with lithium base grease (no

polyethylene). Clean all excess grease

from the bore of the bearing hub. Ex-

cess grease will be forced onto the

spline by the transmission input shaft

bearing retainer and will contaminate

the clutch disc. Also, care must be

exercised when applying lubricants to

the release bearing, release bearing

hub and the release lever fork to avoid

excessive grease from contaminating

the clutch disc.

Hold the bearing inner race and ro-

tate the outer race while applying

pressure to it. If the bearing rotation

is rough or noisy, replace the bearing.

Most release bearing failures are

caused by improper clutch pedal ad-

justments. If the clutch linkage does

not have enough free travel, the re-

lease bearing will constantly touch the

release fingers and will spin whenever

the engine is running.

When installing a release bearing on

vehicles equipped with separate hub

and bearing, use the tool shown in

Fig. 5.

Release bearing failure can be

caused by the release lever contact

points being out of plane. Check the

wear on the release bearing assembly

where the release lever contacts it.

If one side of the assembly shows

more wear than the other, the release
lever is bent out of plane, or is not

centering on the bracket on the fly-

wheel housing.

Misalignment between the engine

and transmission can cause release

bearing failure. Other symptoms of

misalignment are transmission jump-

ing out of gear, especially third gear,

drive line vibration; excessive wear in

the pilot bushing, excessive clutch disc

spin time resulting in gear clash, and

excessive transmission gear wear.

PRESSURE PLATE AND COVER

Inspect the surface of the pressure

plate for burn marks, scores, or rid-

ges.
Generally, pressure plate resur-

facing is not recommended. However

minor burn marks, scores, or ridges

may be removed. During the resurfac-

ing process, the flatness of the pres-

sure plate must be maintained. If the

pressure plate is badly heat-checked or

deeply scored, replace the pressure

plate and cover assembly. Clean pres-

sure plate and flywheel surfaces with a

suitable solvent, such as alcohol to be

sure the surfaces are free from any oil

film. Do not use cleaners with petrole-

um base, and do not immerse the

pressure plate in the solvent.

Place the plate on the floor, being

careful not to score or scratch the sur-

face.
Force each individual finger

down, then release quickly. If the fin-

ger does not return quickly, a binding

condition is indicated, and the pres-

sure plate should be replaced.

The pressure plate should be lubri-

cated with a lithium-base grease be-

tween the driving lugs and the edges

of the pressure plate openings, as

shown in Fig. 6. Depress the pressure

plate fingers fully, apply the lubricant,

and then move the fingers up and

down until the lubricant is worked in.

Do not apply excessive lubricant.

CLUTCH DISC

Inspect the clutch disc facings for

oil or grease. Eliminate the source of

any oil or grease before replacing the

disc. An excessive amount of grease in

the pilot bushing or release bearing

hub will find its way to the disc fac-

ings.
Too much lubricant in the trans-

mission or a plugged transmission

vent will force the transmission lubri-

cant out the input shaft and onto the

disc facings. Also, rear main bearing

oil seal leaks or oil leaks from the fly-

wheel mounting bolts can contaminate

the clutch disc.
Inspect the clutch disc for worn or

loose facings. Check the disc for worn

or loose facings. Check the disc for

distortion and for loose rivets at the

hub.
Check for broken springs.

Springs loose enough to rattle will not

cause noise when the car is operating.

Replace the disc assembly if any of

these defects are present. Be especially

careful when installing a new disc to

avoid dropping it or contaminating it

with oil or grease.

PILOT BUSHING

Check the fit of the clutch pilot

bushing in the bore of the crankshaft.

The bushing is pressed into the

crankshaft and should not be loose.

Inspect the inner surface of the bush-

ing for wear or a bell-mouthed condi-

tion. If the bushing is worn or dam-

aged, replace the bushing with a new

service bearing. Refer to the applica-

ble engine for the replacement proce-

dure.

C 1785-A

FIG. 5—Installing Clutch Release

Bearing on Hub

PRESSURE PLATE

AND COVER

DRIVING

LUG
FLYWHEEL

C2048-A

FIG. 6—Pressure Plate Lubrication

Pointsprocarmanuals.com

05-03-03
Clutch
05-03-03

CLUTCH PEDAL

ADJUSTMENTS

Adjust
the
clutch pedal free travel

whenever
the
clutch does
not
disen-

gage properly,
or
when
new
clutch

parts
are
installed. Improper adjust-

ment
of the
clutch pedal
is one of the

most frequent causes
of
clutch failure

and
can be a
contributing factor
in

some transmission failures.

FREE TRAVEL

1.
Disconnect
the
clutch return

spring from
the
release lever.

2.
Loosen
the
release lever
rod

locknut
and
adjusting
nut
(Figs.
1, 2

and
3).

3.
Move
the
clutch release lever

rearward until
the
release bearing

lightly contacts
the
clutch pressure

plate release fingers.

4.
Adjust
the rod
length until
the

rod seats
in the
release lever pocket.

5.
Insert
the
specified feeler gauge

between
the
adjusting
nut and the

swivel sleeve. Then tighten
the
adjust-

ing
nut
against
the
gauge finger tight.

6. Tighten
the
locknut against
the

adjusting
nut,
being careful
not to di-

sturb
the
adjustment. Torque
the
lock-

nut
to
specification
and
remove
the

feeler gauge.

7.
Install
the
clutch return spring.

8. Check
the
free travel
at the
pedal

for conformance
to
specification.
Re-
adjust
if
necessary.

9.
As a
final check, measure
the

pedal free travel with
the
transmission

in neutral
and the
engine running
at

about 3000
rpm. If the
pedal free

travel
at
this speed
is not a
minimum

of
1/2
inch, readjust
the
clutch pedal

free travel. Otherwise,
the
release
fin-

gers
may
contact
the
release bearing

continuously, resulting
in
premature

bearing
and
clutch failure. Free travel

must
be
exactly
to
specification.

CLUTCH ASSIST

SPRING REPLACEMENT

(FAIRLANE, FALCON,

MONTEGO)

1.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

clutch
rod at the
clutch pedal lever
as-

sembly inside
the
passenger compart-

ment.

2.
Grasp
the
clutch pedal lever

firmly
to
prevent slipping
and
remove

the clutch
rod
from
the
lever. Allow

the clutch pedal lever
to
rest
on the

floor panel.

3.
Remove
the
forward bolt secur-

ing
the
assist spring bracket
to the

brake pedal bracket
and
loosen
the

rear bolt
two or
three turns.
Do not

remove
the
rear bolt.

4.
Grasp
the
assist spring bracket

with pliers
and
rotate upward until
the

spring
can be
separated from
the

bracket.

BRAKE PEDAL

BRACKET

CLUTCH ASSIST SPRING

BRACKET
-
7535

CLUTCH PEDAL

7519
5.
Position
the
assist spring
in the

clutch pedal spring bracket
and the

assist spring bracket. Rotate
the

spring bracket downward until
the

forward bolt holes
in the
assist spring

bracket line
up
with
the
holes
in the

brake pedal bracket
(Fig. 4).

6. Install
the
forward bolt retaining

the assist spring bracket
to the
brake

pedal bracket
and
torque
the
forward

and rear bolts
to
specification.

7.
Install
the
clutch
rod to the

clutch pedal lever
and
insert
the
cotter

pin.

CLUTCH PEDAL, PEDAL

ASSIST SPRING AND/OR

BUSHING REMOVAL

AND INSTALLATION

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR

1.
Remove
the pin
that secures
the

clutch pedal-to-equalizer
rod to the

clutch pedal.

2.
Grasp
the
clutch pecal lever

firmly
to
prevent slipping
and
remove

the clutch
rod
from
the
lever. Allow

the clutch pedal lever
to
rest
on the

floor.

3.
Loosen
the
lower bolt securing

the assist spring bracket
to the
pedal

support bracket
two or
three turns.

Then, remove
the
upper bolt from
the

bracket.
Do not
remove
the
lower

bolt.

4.
Grasp
the
assist spring bracket

with pliers
and
rotate
it
counterclock-

wise until
the
spring
is
free
(Fig 5).

5.
Remove
the
retaining ring from

the
end of the
clutch pedal shaft. Then

remove
the
shaft, bushings
and
clutch

pedal from
the
support.

6. Remove
the
bushings from
the

pedal shaft
and
pedal support
and

transfer
the
rubber pedal
pad.

7.
After lubricating
the
pedal shaft

ASSIST SPRING

LOWER BOLT

ASSIST SPRING BRACKET-

UPPER
BOL"

C 1769-B

FIG. 4—Clutch Pedal Assembly
—
Fairlane, Montego, Falcon
C2058-A

;. 5—Removing Clutch Assist

Spring
—
Ford,
Mercury and Meteorprocarmanuals.com

05-03-04
Clutch

05-03-04

bushings, position the clutch pedal and

bushings in the pedal support.

8. Install the retaining ring on the

clutch pedal shaft.

9. Position the assist spring in the

pedal support bracket and the assist

spring bracket. Rotate the assist

spring bracket clockwise until the

upper bolt holes line up and install the

bolt. Torque both the upper and lower

bolts to specification.

10.
Check the clutch pedal free

travel and adjust as required.

MUSTANG, COUGAR

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable.

2.
Remove the steering column.

Refer to Group 3 of this manual for

the procedure.

3.
Remove the two capscrews re-

taining the master cylinder or booster

to the dash panel. Then remove the

two capscrews retaining the pedal sup-

port bracket to the dash panel.

4.
Working inside the vehicle, dis-

connect the clutch pedal-to-equalizer

rod at the clutch pedal by removing

the retainer and bushing.

5.
Secure the clutch pedal against

the bumper stop with a small C-clamp

as shown in Fig. 6.

6. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

7.
Remove the switch retainer and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.
Remove the master cylinder push

CLUTCH PEDAL ASSIST SPRING
rod, bushing and nylon washer from

the brake pedal pin.

8. Remove the screw retaining the

pedal support bracket to the top inner

cowl bracket (Fig. 6).

9. Remove the two sheet metal

screws retaining the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel.

10.
Remove the two screws retain-

ing the pedal support bracket to the

upper cowl brace and lower the pedal

support bracket away from the steer-

ing column studs.

11.
Remove the pedal support

bracket assembly from the vehicle.

12.
Mount the bracket in a vise.

13.
Remove the small C-clamp se-

curing the clutch pedal to the bumper.

Slowly pivot the pedal away from the

bumper until the assist spring can be

lifted from its seat.

14.
Remove the retainer clip from

the clutch and brake pedal shaft.

Then, remove the clutch pedal and

shaft assembly, brake pedal assembly,

and bushings from the pedal support

bracket.

15.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

brake and clutch pedal assemblies.

16.
Position the brake pedal to the

pedal support bracket. Install the

clutch and brake pedal shaft through

the pedal support and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the retainer.

17.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring and pivot the pedal against its

bumper stop. Secure the pedal against

the bumper with a small C-clamp as

TOP INNER COWL-TO-BRACKET

RETAINING SCREW

C2057-A

FIG.
6—Clutch
Pedal —Mustang and Couga?
shown in Fig. 6.

18.
Position the pedal support

bracket assembly to the dash panel

and to the steering column retainer

studs.

19.
Align the pedal support bracket

holes with the holes in the dash panel

and install the two sheet metal screws.

20.
Install the two capscrews at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the upper cowl bracket.

21.
Install the screw attaching the

support bracket to the top inner cowl

bracket (Fig. 6).

22.
Install the inner nylon washer,

bushing master cylinder push rod on

the brake pedal pin. Position the stop

light switch so that it straddles the

push rod with the switch slot on the

pedal pin and the switch outer hole

just clearing the pin. Slide the switch

completely onto the pin, and install

the outer nylon washer. Secure with

the self-locking pin.

23.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector and install the

wires to the retaining clip.

24.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and retain-

er and remove the C-clamp from the

bracket.

25.
Working from the engine side

of the dash panel, install the two cap-

screws attaching the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel. Then install

the two screws attaching the master

cylinder to the dash panel.

26.
Install the steering column.

Refer to Group 3 of this manual for

the procedure.

27.
Adjust the clutch pedal free

travel.

28.
Check the brake pedal free

height and travel measurements

(Group 2).

29.
Connect the battery ground

cable.

CLUTCH PEDAL AND/OR

BUSHING REMOVAL

AND INSTALLATION

MOM EGO, FALCON

FAIRLANF

1.
Remove the retaining clip (Fig.

2) that secures the equalizer rod to the

clutch pedal. Disconnect the rod from

the pedal.

2.
Remove the lower bolt retaining

the assist spring bracket to the pedal

support. Then, loosen the upper

bracket retaining bolt (approximately

4 turns) and disconnect the spring

from the clutch pedal and bracket.

3.
Disconnect the brake pedal push

rod from the brake pedal.procarmanuals.com

05-03-06
Clutch

05-03-06

8. Remove the starter cable then

remove the starter motor from the fly-

wheel housing.

9. Remove the bolts that secure the

engine rear plate to the front lower

part of the flywheel housing.

10.
Remove the flywheel housing

lower cover (390 CID housing only).

11.
Remove the bolts that attach

the housing to the cylinder block.

12.
Move the housing back just far

enough to clear the pressure plate,

then move it to the right to free the

pivot from the clutch equalizer bar. Be

careful not to disturb the linkage and

assist spring.

13.
Loosen the six pressure plate

cover attaching bolts evenly to release

the spring tension. If the same pres-

sure plate and cover is to be installed

after the clutch is overhauled, mark

the cover and flywheel so that the

pressure plate can be installed in the

same position.

14.
Remove the pressure plate and

the clutch disc from the flywheel.

CLUTCH INSTALLATION

1.
Install the clutch release lever if

it was removed.

2.
Place the clutch disc, and pres-

sure plate assembly in position on the

flywheel. Start the cover attaching

bolts to hold the pieces in place, but

do not tighten them. Avoid touching

the clutch disc facing, dropping the

parts or contaminating them with oil

or grease as clutch chatter may result.

3.
Align the clutch disc with the

tool shown in Fig. 7, and alternately

tighten the bolts a few turns at a time

until they are all tight. Then torque

the six pressure plate cover attaching

bolts to specification before removing

the tool.
4.
Apply a light film of grease

(C3VY-19586-A) to the outside diam-

eter of the transmission front bearing

retainer. Apply a light film of grease

(C3VY-19586-A) to both sides of the

release lever fork where it contacts the

release bearing bore spring clips.

Apply a light film of grease to the re-

lease bearing surface that contacts the

pressure plate release fingers. Fill the

grease groove of the release bearing

hub with lithium base grease (C3VY-

19586-A). Clean all excess grease

from inside the bore of bearing hub.

Excess grease will be forced onto the

spline by the transmission input shaft

bearing retainer and will contaminate

the clutch disc. Also, place the release

bearing and hub on the release lever.

5.
Make certain that the flywheel

housing and the cylinder block mount-

ing surfaces are clean. Position the

felt washer on the pivot in the fly-

wheel housing. Slip the pivot into the

clutch equalizer shaft being careful

not to disturb the linkage and at the

same time position the housing on the

dowels in the cylinder block. Install

and torque the attaching bolts to spec-

ification.

6. Install the starting motor and

connect the cable.

7.
The mounting surfaces of the

transmission and the flywheel housing

must be free of dirt, paint, and burrs.

Install two guide pins in the flywheel

housing lower mounting bolt holes.

Move the transmission forward on the

guide pins until it is tightly positioned

against the flywheel housing.

8. Install the two upper mounting

bolts.
Then, remove the guide pins

and install the two lower mounting

bolts.
Torque all the bolts to specifica-

tion.

9. Raise the rear of the engine and
install the crossmember. Install and

torque the crossmember attaching

bolts to specifications, then lower the

engine.

10.
Install the extension housing-

to-engine rear support attaching bolts.

Torque the bolts to specification.

11.
Remove the transmission jack

and connect the parking brake cable.

12.
If the vehicle is equipped with a

four-speed transmission, connect the

gear shift linkage control bracket to

the extension housing.

13.
Connect the gear shift rods to

the transmission. Adjust the shift link-

age as required.

14.
Connect the release lever retain-

ing spring. Install the flywheel housing

cover (390 CID housing only).

15.
Remove the tool from the

transmission output shaft and install

the drive shaft.

16.
Check the clutch pedal free

travel.

CLUTCH ARBOR CLUTCH DISC

PRESSURE PLATE

C 1788-A

FIG. 7—Installing Clutch Disc —

Typicalprocarmanuals.com

07-01-04
General Transmission Service

07-01-04

taching bolts to the proper torque. If

necessary, replace the gasket.

Check the fluid filler tube connec-

tion at the transmission case or pan.

If leakage is found here, install a new

O-ring or tighten the fitting to the

specified torque.

Check the fluid lines and fittings

between the transmission and the

cooler in the radiator tank for loose-

ness,
wear, or damage. If leakage can-

not be stopped by tightening a fitting,

replace the damaged parts.

Check the engine coolant in the ra-

diator. If transmission fluid is present

in the coolant, the cooler in the radia-

tor is probably leaking.

The cooler can be further checked

for leaks by disconnecting the lines

from the cooler fittings and applying

50-75 psi air pressure to the fittings.

Remove the radiator cap to relieve the

pressure build at the exterior of the oil

cooler tank. If the cooler is leaking

and will not hold this pressure the

cooler must be replaced. Cooler re-

placement is described in the Cooling

System Section of Group 11.

If leakage is found at either the

downshift control lever shaft or the

manual lever shaft, replace either or

both seals.

Inspect the pipe plug on the left

side of the transmission case at the

front. If the plug shows leakage, tor-

que the plug to specifications. If tight-

ening does not stop the leaks, replace

the plug. On a C6 transmission, a TV

pressure plug is also provided on the

right rear side of the case.

When converter drain plugs leak,

remove drain plugs with a six-point

wrench. Coat the threads with FoMo-

Co Perfect Seal Sealing Compound or

its equivalent, and install the plugs.

Torque the drain plugs to specifica-

tion. Fluid leakage from the converter

housing may be caused by engine oil

leaking past the rear main bearing or

from oil gallery plugs, or power steer-

ing oil leakage from steering system.

Be sure to determine the exact cause

of the leak before repair procedures

are started.

Oil-soluble aniline or fluorescent dyes

premixed at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon

of dye powder to 1/2 pint of transmis-

sion fluid have proved helpful in locat-

ing the source of the fluid leakage.

Such dyes may be used to determine

whether an engine oil or transmission

fluid leak is present or if the fluid in

the oil cooler leaks into the engine

coolant system. A black light, how-

ever, must be used with the fluorescent

dye solution.
DISHED OR

FLAT WASHER

" O.D.,
a" STEEL PLATE

5/8"X \W,

DRILL TO SUIT
HEX. HEAD SCREW

3/8"-24 X Vl

HEX. NUT W—
24

WELD

TOGETHER

WING
NUT

>/2"_13
THREAD

CHAIN,
10"
LONG
RUBBER PLUG

1
Vi" DIA. X 2"

LONG Vl"

HOLE THRU

APPROXIMATELY

40 DUROMETER
FLAT WASHER

Vs" O.D.

PLUG

VALVE
STANDARD BOLT

W-13
X 4Vl"

LONG SQUARE

THREAD
END

REMOVE HEAD

AND WELD
TO

WASHER

STANDARD 1/8" FITTING-87971-S FOR

RETAPPED DRAIN PLUG THREADS-USE

1/4" OVERSIZE FITTING-87973-S

D 1067-B
WELD TOGETHER

SECURELY—MUST

NOT LEAK

FIG. 2—Converter Leak Checking Tool

CONVERTER LEAKAGE

CHECK

If there are indications that the

welds on the torque converter are

leaking, the converter will have to be

removed and the following check

made before the unit is replaced.

A leak checking tool (Fig. 2) can be

made from standard parts. The tool

can be used to check all converters.

1.
Install the plug in the converter

(Fig. 3) and expand it by tightening

the wing nut. Attach the safety chains.

2.
Install the air valve in one of the

drain plug holes.

3.
Introduce air pressure into the

converter. Check the pressure with a

tire gauge and adjust it to 20 psi.

4.
Place the converter in a tank of

water. Observe the weld areas for

bubbles. If no bubbles are observed, it

may be assumed that the welds are

not leaking.

ENGINE IDLE SPEED CHECK

Check and, if necessary, adjust the

engine idle speed, using the procedure

given in Group 10.

If the idle speed is too low, the en-

gine will run roughly. An idle speed

that is too high will cause the vehicle

to creep, have harsh engagements and

harsh closed-throttle downshifts.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT

CLEARANCE CHECK

After the engine idle speed has been

properly adjusted, check the anti-stall

dashpot clearance. Follow the proce-

dure given in Group 10 for checking

and adjusting this clearance.

MANUAL LINKAGE CHECKS

Correct manual linkage adjustment

is necessary to position the manual

valve for proper fluid pressure direc-

tion to the different transmission com-

ponents. Improperly adjusted manual

Tire Pressure Gauge

D1921-A

FIG. 3—Converter Leak Checking

Tool Installationprocarmanuals.com

07-01-08
General Transmission Service

07-01-08

3.
Install the bench testing tool on

the transmission.

4.
Remove the
1/8-inch
pipe plug

at the transmission case. Turn the

front pump in a clockwise direction at

75-100 rpm until a regular flow of

transmission fluid leaves the hole in

the transmission case. This operation
bleeds the air from the pump.

5.
Install the pressure gauge (77820

or T57L-77820-A) as shown in Fig.

13.

PRESSURE TESTS

Turn the front pump at 75-100 rpm
and note the gauge readings. The

pressure readings on the bench test

must be within the limits as outlined

in Figure 13, for the engine idle check.

If pressure gauge readings are with-

in limits in all selector lever positions,

install the vacuum diaphragm control

rod unit.

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN

AND REFILL

Normal maintenance and lubrica-

tion requirements do not necessitate

periodic automatic transmission fluid

changes.

If a major repair, such as a clutch

band, bearing, etc., is required in the

transmission, it will have to be re-

moved for service. At this time the

converter, transmission cooler and

cooler lines must be thoroughly

flushed to remove any dirt.

When filling a dry transmission and

converter, install five quarts of fluid.

Start the engine, shift the selector

lever as outlined below, and check and

add fluid as necessary.

Following are the procedures for

partial drain and refill due to in-

vehicle repair operation.

C4 TRANSMISSION

1.
On PEA models, disconnect the

fluid filler tube from the transmission

oil pan to drain the fluid.

On PEB and PEE models, loosen

the pan attaching bolts to drain the

fluid from the transmission.

2.
When the fluid has stopped

draining from the transmission, re-

move and thoroughly clean the pan

and the screen. Discard the pan gas-

ket.

3.
Place a new gasket on the pan,

and install the pan on the transmis-

sion.

4.
On PEA models, connect the

filler tube to the pan and tighten the

fitting securely.

5.
Add three quarts of fluid to the

transmission through the filler tube.

6. Run the engine at idle speed for

about two minutes, and then run it at

fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until

it reaches it's normal operating temp-

erature. Do not race the engine.

7.
Shift the selector lever through

all the positions, place it at P, and

check the fluid level. The fluid level

should be above the ADD mark. If
necessary, add enough fluid io the

transmission to bring the level be-

tween the ADD and FULL marks on

che dipstick. Do not overfill the trans-

mission.

FMX OK C6

TRANSMISSION

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist or

jack stands.

2.
Place a drain pan under the

transmission.

3.
Loosen the pan attaching bolts

to drain the fluid from the transmis-

sion.

4.
After the fluid has drained to the

level of the pan flange, remove the

rest of the pan bolts working from the

rear and both sides of the pan to

allow it to drop and drain slowly.

5.
When the fluid has stopped

draining from the transmission, re-

move and thoroughly clean the pan

and the screen. Discard the pan gas-

ket.

6. Place a new gasket on the pan,

and install the pan on the transmis-

sion.

7.
Add three quarts of fluid to the

transmission through the filler tube.

8. Run the engine at idle speed for

about two minutes, and then run it at

fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until

it reaches normal operating tempera-

ture.
Do not race the engine.

9. Shift the selector lever through

all the positions, place it at P, and

check the fluid level. The fluid level

should be above the ADD mark. If

necessary, add enough fluid to the

transmission to bring the level be-

tween the ADD and FULL marks on

the dipstick. Do not overfill the trans-

mission.

OIL COOLER TUBE

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

When fluid leakage is found at the

oil cooler, the cooler must be re-

placed. Cooler replacement is de-

scribed in the Cooling System Section

of Group 11.
When one or more of the fluid

cooler steel tubes must be replaced,

each replacement tube must be fabri-

cated from the same size steel tubing

as the original line.

Using the old tube as a guide, bend

the new tube as required. Add the

necessary fittings, and install the tube.

After the fittings have been tight-

ened, add fluid as needed, and check

for fluid leaks.

VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

ADJUSTMENT NON-ALTITUDE

COMPENSATING TYPE

The C4 and C6 transmissions are

equipped with an adjustable vacuum

diaphragm assembly. A similar ad-

justable diaphragm has been released

for service with the FMX transmis-

sion. However, the FMX service dia-

phragm is not interchangeable with

that used on C4 and C6 models.

The vacuum diaphragm assembly

has an adjusting screw in the vacuum

hose connecting tube (Fig. 14).

SPRING

SEAT

THIS CLEARANCE CHANGED

BY ADJUSTING SCREW

D1830-A

FIG. 14—Adjustable Vacuum Unit

The inner end of the screw bears

against a plate which in turn bears

against the vacuum diaphragm spring.

All readings slightly high or all

readings slightly low may indicate the

vacuum unit needs adjustment to cor-

rect a particular shift condition.procarmanuals.com