1969 FIAT 500 points

to the body and proceed as follows:
1 If the camber angle requires to be increased (see FIG
8:16) add the same number of shims S on both
screws D and E.
2 If the camber angle requires to be reduced (see FIG
8:16) remove the same number of shims from both
screws D and E.
The addition or removal of shims at the t w o points D
and E permits camber adjustment to be made without
any disturbing of the castor angle.
8:10 Modifications
Checking and adjusting castor and camber angles:
When checking the castor and camber angle the
static loading should be such that the distance between
the semi-elliptic spring mountings G (see FIG 8:16)
and the floor level to be approximately 6.81 inches, also a
distance between the lowermost portion of the sump and
the floor level of approximately 6.14 inch for the Model
500D. For the 500 Station Wagon version the distance
between centre rear bracket for jacking-up the vehicle
and the floor level should be approximately 8.90 inches.
All other front wheel alignment specifications are the
same as for the remaining 500 saloon models.
8:11 Fault diagnosis
(a) Wheel bounce
1 Tyre casing faulty
2 Uneven tyre pressures
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Semi-elliptic mounting spring worn5 Weak or seized shock absorber
6 Wheel rim or tyre misaligned
(b) Suspension noise
1 Lack of lubrication
2 Noisy or inoperative shock absorbers
3 Worn or loose wheel bearings
(c) Pull to one side
1 Low or uneven tyre pressures
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Suspension arms distorted
4 Inoperative shock absorbers
5 Brakes binding
(d) Excessive t y r e wear
1 Incorrect tyre rotation during servicing periods
2 Incorrect camber angle
3 Incorrect toe-in
4 Incorrect tyre inflation
5 Excessive play at wheel bearings
6 Wheel wobble
7 Stiff suspension arms
8 Brakes out of adjustment
(e) Wheel wobble
1 Uneven tyre pressures
2 Loose or worn wheel bearings
3 Inoperative shock absorbers
4 Loose steering knuckle or kingpin housing
5 Incorrect front wheel alignment
6 Control arm rubber bushings, or kingpin housing and
semi-elliptic spring 'estendblock' worn
96

FIG 9 : 4 Section of steering box, through worm screw
Key to Fig 9 : 4 1 Worm screw 2 Seal 3 Roller bearing
4 Worm screw adjuster and bearing retainer 5 Pitman arm
6 Worm sector
FIG 9 : 6 Steering box cutaway
100FIG 9:5 Section of steering box, through worm sector
Key to Fig 9 : 5 1 Sector adjustment screw 2 Locking
nut and plain washer 3 Sector thrust washer 4 Shim
5 Eccentric bush 6 Bush adjusting plate 7 Plate screw
and toothed washer 8 Pitman arm 9 Sector lower seal
10 Upper seal 11 Worm sector 12 Worm screw
13 Oil filler and level plug
2 If play is excessive in the worm screw rollers, screw up
the lower adjuster ring 4 (see FIG 9 : 4) . Once adjust-
ment has been completed the adjuster ring must be
secured by the cotter. The ring should be positioned
so that the hole in the steering box lines up w i t h one
of the spaces between the ring castellations.
3 Should the meshing between the worm screw and the
sector not be at the correct central position this
condition may be rectified by moving the sector
axially. To do this add or remove shims (see FIG 9 :5)
below the thrust ring of the worm sector. The final
adjustment must be carried out by using the adjust-
ment screw 1 (see FIG 9 : 5) on the cover and then
locking the screw by nuts 2. In service shims are
supplied .0039 inch thick.
The above described adjustments must eliminate
any play and back lash in the steering gear without
rendering the steering gear stiff to operate between
the t w o locks.
4 During adjustment should any seal be found to be
damaged then it should be renewed.
Reassembly:
Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling
but the following points should be noted:
1 All parts should be thoroughly cleaned before

reassembling and during assembly liberally lubricated
using Fiat W90/M oil (SAE90 EP).
2 The pitman arm nut should be correctly positioned on
reassembly to the sector shaft and both are marked
with notches or a master tooth on the sector will mate
with a double tooth on the pitman arm which will
prevent incorrect reassembly.
3 The pitman arm nut must be tightened to a torque
wrench setting of 72 Ib/ft.
4 Fill the box up to the level and filler plug with SAE90 EP
gear oil.
Refitting the steering box:
To refit the steering box to the vehicle proceed as
follows:
1 Engage the w o r m screw f r o m the steering shaft by
gently manipulating the steering box.
2 Replace the steering box to body nuts and tighten to a
torque wrench setting of 14 to 18 Ib/ft.
3 Replace the t w o track rod pins in their seatings in the
pitman arm and tighten the self-locking nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 18 to 21 Ib/ft.
4 Replace the steering shaft to worm screw mounting
bolt, lock washer and nut.
9 :5 Relay lever and support
The steering idler arm is secured to the body by means
of a support bracket and a rubber bushed pivot bolt. This
is shown in FIG 9 : 7. When this unit is being serviced
the following points should be noted.
1 If there is excessive play between the pin and the
bushes the bushes must be renewed. Also check the
condition of the pin and if there are signs of excessive
wear it must be renewed.
2 To eliminate torsional stresses in the rubber bushes
during assembly the pin nut must be tightened to
torque wrench setting of 39 to 43 Ib/ft, once the
front wheel toe-in has been correctly adjusted w i t h the
wheels set in the straight ahead position.
3 The relay lever support to body mounting nuts must
be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 14 to 18
Ib/ft.
9 : 6 Steering rods (tie rods)
The steering rod is connected to the idler arm and the
drop arm by means of non-adjustable ball joints. The
track rods are connected to the right and left steering
arms by non-adjustable ball joints and comprise t w o
sleeves which are split and having internally threaded
ends. The ball joints are clamped to either end of the
sleeves. To facilitate adjustment one ball joint end has a
lefthand thread and the other a righthand thread.
Adjustment is made by loosening both the clamping bolts
and turning the central sleeve.
To remove the steering rods from the pitman arm, the
relay lever and knuckle arms Fiat pullers A.46006 and
A.6473 or universal ball joint removers should be used.
If excessive play is evident in the ball joint linkage or
the pin is damaged the complete ball joint assembly must
be renewed.
Upon reassembly the tie rod to ball pin knuckle arm
nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of
18 to 21 Ib/ft.
F500101
FIG 9:7 Relay lever support section
FIG 9:8 Front wheel toe-in checking diagram
Key to Fig 9:8 A—B = 000 inch to .079 inch
It is important that all steering linkages are thoroughly
checked at regular intervals and if any parts are suspect
then they must be renewed.
9 : 7 Front wheel toe-in
To check and adjust the front wheel toe-in proceed as
follows:
1 Ensure that the tyres are inflated to the recommended
pressures. Ensure that the steering wheel is in its

normal straight-ahead position with the spokes
horizontal. Check that the wheels are in the straight-
ahead position.
2 Load the vehicle to static load conditions or with four
average size passengers.
3 Move the vehicle forwards for a distance of approxi-
mately six yards so that the suspension may settle
correctly.
4 The toe-in measurements should be taken at the same
point of the wheel rim. Measure at A (see FIG 9 : 8)
then back up the car to bring points A to the position B
and remeasure. The value obtained at A should be
equal to or greater than B within .0079 inch.
5 As previously described the steering rods are adjust-
able in length. Loosen the clamps and screw in or out
the adjusting sleeves and before tightening the clamp
ensure that the sleeve slot registers w i t h the clamp
joint. With the clamp fully tightened there should
always be a gap between the joint faces.
6 If the steering gear has been re-installed the correct
front wheel toe-in must be set. Then the relay lever pin
nut must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 78
to 85 Ib/ft.
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Front wheel shimmy
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose front wheel bearings
4 Wheels out of balance
5 Loose steering linkage connections
6 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
7 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
(b) Hard steering
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(c) Hard turning when stationary
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
102
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
4 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms
5 Unequal brake adjustment
6 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(e) Rattles
1 Loose steering linkage connections
2 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
3 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
4 Lack of lubrication
( f ) Loose steering
1 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
2 Loose steering linkage connections
3 Loose steering gear mountings
4 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(g) Jerky steering
1 Incorrect front wheel alignment
2 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Loose steering linkage connections
5 Loose or incorrect fitting of worm to sector
(h) Side-to-side wander
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose steering linkage connections
4 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
5 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
6 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arm
7 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(i) Tyre squeal on turns
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect wheel alignment
3 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms

1
791011 8 234
11
10
16,15
14 13
1265
FIG 11:5 Components of starter
Key to Fig 11:5 1 Drive end head 2 Head shield 3 Frame 4 Switch 5 Commutator cover band
6 and 7 Pin and spring for lever 8 8 Starting engagement lever 9 Head shield 10 and 11 Head fixing tie rods and tubes
12 Pinion, complete 13 Starting engagement spring 14 Drive unit sleeve and free wheel hub 15 Armature
16 Commutator end head
Testing field coils:
When tested w i t h an ohmmeter the reading should be
8+.1—.3 ohms. Failing an ohmmeter use a 12-volt
supply and connect it in series w i t h an ammeter across
the field terminal and the yoke or body. The meter should
read approximately 2 amps. If there is no reading the
field coil winding has a break in it. If the reading is much
more than 2 amps or the ohmmeter records at much less
than 8 ohms it shows that field coil insulation has broken
down. Renewal of the field coils is a specialist operation
best left to a service station.
The armature:
Apart from reconditioning the commutator, there is
little which can be done to the armature itself. Never try
to straighten a bent shaft and do not machine the arma-
ture core. Armature windings are tested w i t h equipment
normally not available to the car owner. The only check
for a suspected faulty armature which the owner can do
is to substitute an armature which is known to be
satisfactory.
Generator bearings:
1 Commutator end head bearings. Remove the ball-
bearing outer race stop bracket mounting screw and
nut, ease o u t t h e stop brackets and the ballbearings.
2 Fan end head bearing. Remove the ballbearing retainer
mounting screw nuts and ease o u t t h e retainers and
the seals. Using a suitably sized drift remove the ball-
bearing.
114Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling
in both cases.
Reassembly and refitting the generator:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. The
following points should however be noted.
1 The commutator end head ballbearing outer race stop
bracket mounting screw nut must be tightened to a
torque wrench setting of .80 Ib ft.
2 The pulley and fan-to-generator armature shaft self-
locking nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib ft.
3 To assemble the commutator end bracket to the yoke,
partially withdraw the brushes and trap them in this
position by letting the springs bear on the sides of the
brushes. Fit the bracket to the armature shaft and when
it is about 1/2 inch from the yoke face, lift the springs
using a thin screwdriver or a piece of hooked wire and
this will let the brushes drop onto the commutator.
Check that the springs now bear correctly on the tops
of the brushes and push the bracket fully home.
4 Pack all ballbearings with Fiat Jota 3 grease or an
equivalent grade grease.
11:4 The starter motor
Operation:
When operating the starter hand lever through a
flexible coupling a lever is operated (see FIG 11:5)
which controls the pinion engagement with the flywheel.
As the lever completes its movement it closes the starter

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty

FIG 12:1 Detail of right door (early type). Upper arrow
points to vent wing lock handle. Lower arrow points to
window regulator handle
FIG 1 2 : 2 Sedan right side door (later type). Front-hinged.
Door latch is of the triple acting type. Later (pull-out) type
interior lock handles have an escutcheon which is levered
out by means of t w o screwdrivers to expose the handle
pivot pin and spring
Cleaning imitation leather:
To keep the imitation leather clean wash in luke warm
water and a neutral soap applied with a soft cloth. Wipe
clean with a clean moistened cloth with no trace of soap
and finally rub with a clean dry cloth until the original
lustre is restored.
128
Chrome plated parts:
To ensure long life from the chrome plated parts these
should be periodically washed using a cloth dampened
with petrol and dried with a soft cloth. Rub with a cloth
moistened in clean oil especially around the edges of the
components and finally rub using a clean dry cloth until
all traces of oil have been apparently removed.
Glass panels:
The glass panels must be cleaned w i t h a chamois
leather or rag. Take care that no abrasive material is
allowed to be rubbed onto the glass otherwise it will be
scratched.
12:3 Door trim and accessories
The rear-hinged doors have welded upper and lower
hinge halves being joined by a fulcrum pin to the other
half of the hinge which is welded onto the body. Upon
reassembly of a hinge the fulcrum pins must be fitted with
the ball head uppermost. With front-hinged doors the
hinge is bolted to the body pillar.
Check strap (earlier models):
To limit the door opening, a rubber check strap is fixed
by four self-tapping screws of which two are located on
the door and t w o on the body. When a check strap is being
fitted the following points should be noted:
1 Always use sealing compound on the check strap
mounting holes to ensure a moisture t i g h t j o i n t .
2 Insert the screws in the plates and in the strap.
3 Always place a washer on each screw between the
body and the check strap, and also the door and check
strap. Tighten the screws fully.
Weather strip:
A one-piece moulded weather strip is fitted to the door
aperture and fixed by a special adhesive. Should the
weather strip become detached or a new one requiring to
be fitted proceed as follows:
1 Remove the old weather strip as necessary and thor-
oughly clean the door opening flange with petrol,
remove any rust spots and touch in the paint work.
2 Clean the new weather strips of their preservative or
the original from road dirt using petrol and thoroughly
wipe
clean.
3 Apply a coat of adhesive using a brush to the side to be
attached to the body. Allow to dry for the recom-
mended period of time and position the weather strip
on the door opening flange ensuring that it is not
distorted. The joint should be on the bottom side of
the rear end of the door opening. Apply a heavy
pressure on the weather strip starting from the centre
and working towards the ends.
Two rubber lining strips are located on the door flange
and these should be attached using the same procedure
detailed above.
Ensure that the bonding of the rubber weather strips
to both the door opening flange and the door panel is
thoroughly dry before the door is closed, otherwise this
could be the cause of subsequent water ingress.

NUT AND JAM NUT FOR
ADJUSTING PIN FRICTION
FIG 12:5 Ventilation panel lower pivot
FIG 12:6 Removal of windshield glass. Simply press
out as shown
reassemble the regulator to the door is the reverse
procedure to dismantling. The following points should
however, be noted:
1 Before the lining is refitted to the door panel ensure
that the regulator operates correctly. Ensure t h a t the
glass moves up and down in its channels without
excessive efforts required on the crank handle.
2 Once the lining is glued into place ensure that it
adheres evenly on the door so that the window
regulator operation is not interfered with at a later date
due to the lining becoming detached.
130
FIG 12:7 Positioning the windshield after tilting wiperblades
Door window drop glass and weather strip :
Description:
The door windows are fitted with swivelling front glass
ventilators and a drop rear glass pane. The 'new 500'
convertible is equipped with stationary type window rear
glass which is secured to the door panel by means of t w o
brackets and screws together with spring washers and
nuts.
Removal of door glass:
To remove the door window drop glass proceed as
previously described for removing the regulator assembly,
and t h e n ease forward the front glass guide and then
carefully lift away the glass.
Reassembly:
1 Fit Fiat No. 16 clips equally spaced all along the door
window flange.
2 Install the glass runway by inserting it in the rear and
upper side of the window groove. The runway is
fastened in place by the spring clips.
3 Install the glass runway, complete with the fabric lining
and secure it to the regulator frame on the top side
using self-tapping screws and on the bottom side w i t h
the bracket, screw, plain washer and spring washer.
4 Secure the gear type window regulator to the door
panel using the three screws, three plain washers and
three toothed washers.
5 Refit the window rubber weather strips which are lined
with fabric on both inner faces that touch the glass
pane. Lock the weather strips in place w i t h the Fiat
clips.
6 Replace the metal joint cap.
7 Fit and correctly locate the drop glass complete with
lower rubber weather strip, metal channel and run
plate for sliding travel of window regulator arm.