Front
SuspensIon
DESCRIPTION
WHEEL
HUBS
WHEEL
BEARINGS
Adjusting
FRONT
AXLE
AND
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
DESCRIPTION
The
front
suspension
is
of
the
strut
type
with
the
coil
spring
and
hydraulic
damper
units
mounted
on
the
suspension
member
and
transverse
link
assembly
See
FigJ
1
Vertical
movement
of
the
suspension
is
controlled
by
the
strut
assembly
the
tension
rod
absorbs
the
forward
and
backward
movement
of
the
transverse
links
whilst
side
move
ment
of
the
body
is
controlled
by
the
stabilizer
rod
which
is
attached
to
the
body
and
transverse
links
WHEEL
HUBS
Removal
1
Jack
up
the
vehicle
remove
the
road
wheel
and
disconnect
the
brake
hose
at
the
strut
outer
casing
bracket
as
described
under
the
previous
heading
Plug
the
opened
end
of
the
hose
to
prevent
loss
of
fluid
2
Remove
the
brake
calliper
assembly
or
the
brake
drum
as
described
in
the
section
BRAKES
3
Remove
the
grease
cap
from
the
hub
by
tapping
lightly
at
the
joint
using
a
screwdriver
and
hammer
4
Withdraw
the
cotter
pin
from
the
wheel
bearing
locknut
and
remove
the
nut
Remove
the
wheel
hub
together
with
the
wheel
bearing
and
washer
Fig
J
2
On
cars
fitted
with
disc
brakes
the
hub
is
removed
complete
with
brake
disc
5
The
wheel
bearing
outer
race
can
be
removed
from
the
hub
using
a
drift
as
shown
in
Fig
I
3
WHEEL
HUBS
Inspection
and
Overhaul
Gean
the
hub
and
bearings
by
washing
in
petrol
Examine
the
grease
seal
and
make
sure
that
it
is
not
worn
or
cracked
renew
the
seal
if
necessary
Ensure
that
the
races
are
not
pitted
or
scored
rotate
them
and
check
for
signs
of
wear
and
play
A
sectional
view
of
the
wheel
bearing
assembly
is
given
in
Fig
14
to
provide
an
indication
of
the
points
to
be
checked
WHEEL
HUB
AND
BEARING
Installation
The
wheel
bearing
outer
race
can
be
refitted
with
a
suitable
drift
or
special
tool
ST
35310000
Fill
the
wheel
hub
and
the
hub
cap
to
the
positions
shown
in
Fig
J
5
with
multi
purpose
grease
Fill
the
spaces
between
the
bearing
rollers
and
the
lip
of
the
grease
seal
with
the
same
type
of
grease
Lightly
smear
the
spindle
shaft
and
threads
the
bearing
washer
and
bearing
lock
SPRING
AND
STRUT
ASSEMBLY
TRANSVERSE
LINK
AND
LOWER
BALL
JOINT
FRONT
WHEEL
ALIGNMENT
ADJUSTING
THE
STEERING
ANGLE
nut
with
grease
and
assemble
the
parts
onto
the
wheel
spindle
Make
sure
that
dirt
and
foreign
matter
does
not
adhere
to
the
greased
surfaces
Adjust
the
wheel
bearings
as
described
under
the
following
heading
WHEEL
BEARINGS
Adjusting
The
wheel
bearings
can
be
adjusted
with
the
road
wheel
the
hub
cap
and
the
bearing
locknut
cotterpin
removed
as
previously
described
Tighten
the
wheel
bearing
locknut
to
a
torque
reading
of
3
0
3
5
kgm
21
7
25
3lb
ft
Turn
the
hub
several
times
in
each
direction
to
settle
the
bearing
and
then
retighten
the
bearing
locknut
to
the
specified
torque
reading
Slacken
the
bearing
locknut
to
an
angle
between
40
to
700
a
ay
from
the
previously
tightened
position
and
align
the
cotter
pin
hole
with
the
hole
in
the
spindle
Turn
the
wheel
hub
a
few
times
in
each
direction
and
then
measure
the
torque
required
to
cause
the
hub
to
turlI
A
spring
balance
should
be
used
as
shown
m
Rig
J
p
make
sure
that
the
brake
pads
are
not
binding
on
the
disc
type
of
brake
unit
and
check
that
the
force
required
to
turn
the
hub
is
within
the
following
fIgures
Wheel
bearing
rotation
starting
torque
1800ce
With
new
bearing
7
0
kg
cm
97
in
oz
1400
1600cc
With
new
bearing
8
0
kg
cm
111
2
in
oz
With
used
bearing
4
0
kg
cm
56
0
in
oz
Starting
torque
at
the
hub
bolt
lWth
new
bearing
ith
used
bearings
1
57
kg
3
46
lb
0
7
kg
1
541b
Adjust
the
locknut
slightly
if
the
fIgures
do
not
conform
and
replace
the
cotterpin
Refit
the
hub
cap
and
the
road
wheel
FRONT
AXLE
AND
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
Removal
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
place
stands
under
the
ront
side
members
Remove
the
road
wheels
and
the
splash
board
3
Disconnect
the
front
brake
hoses
and
remove
the
brake
hose
locking
springs
Withdraw
the
plates
and
remove
the
hoses
from
the
strut
assembly
Plug
the
ends
of
the
hoses
to
prevent
the
ingress
of
dirt
and
loss
of
fluid
4
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
tie
rod
ball
joint
remove
83
the
castle
nut
and
detach
the
tie
rod
from
the
knuckle
arm
5
Remove
the
tension
rod
securing
nuts
Fig
J
7
remove
the
bolts
and
withdraw
the
tension
rod
Withdraw
the
nut
shown
arrowed
in
FigJ
8
and
remove
the
stabilizer
6
Support
the
engine
with
suitable
lifting
tackle
so
that
the
engine
mounting
bolts
can
be
removed
and
the
suspension
crossmember
detached
from
the
engine
FigJ
9
7
Place
ajack
under
the
crossmember
Remove
the
bolts
indicated
in
Fig
J
IO
and
separate
the
crossmember
from
the
body
8
Remove
the
strut
assembly
upper
attachment
self
locking
nuts
at
both
sides
Fig
J
ll
and
lower
the
front
suspension
assembly
to
remove
it
from
the
vehicle
FRONT
AXLE
AND
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
Installation
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
noting
the
following
points
Make
sure
that
all
rubber
parts
are
free
from
wear
and
deterioration
Any
part
of
the
suspension
assembly
which
has
been
damaged
or
distorted
must
be
replaced
The
front
wheel
alignment
should
be
checked
after
completing
the
installation
a
brief
description
is
given
at
the
end
of
this
section
Camber
and
castor
angles
are
preset
and
cannot
be
adjusted
SPRING
AND
STRUf
ASSEMBLY
Removal
and
Installation
The
strut
assembly
consists
of
the
outer
casing
piston
rod
piston
rod
guide
and
cylinder
etc
An
exploded
view
of
the
components
is
given
in
Fig
J
12
The
inner
components
must
be
replaced
as
a
complete
assembly
Replacement
and
overhaul
procedures
for
the
inner
components
together
with
the
removal
of
the
front
springs
should
only
be
carried
out
by
a
specialist
Datsun
workshop
The
strut
assembly
can
be
removed
prior
to
dismantling
by
following
the
procedures
outlined
below
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
support
it
on
stands
2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
strut
assembly
bracket
as
previously
described
under
the
heading
FRONT
AXLE
and
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
Removal
3
Remove
the
stabilizer
bar
and
tension
rod
from
the
trans
verse
links
Loosen
and
remove
the
knuckle
arm
fixing
bolts
Fig
J
9
And
separate
the
strut
assembly
from
the
ball
joints
4
Remove
the
strut
assembly
upper
attachment
self
locking
nuts
Fig
J
11
and
withdraw
the
strut
assembly
from
the
body
Fig
J
13
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Ensure
that
the
bolts
are
tightened
to
the
specified
torque
readings
given
under
TIGHTENING
TORQUES
SPRING
AND
STRUT
ASSEMBLY
Dismantling
and
Assembly
Care
must
be
taken
when
dismantling
the
assembly
to
ensure
that
aU
parts
are
maintained
in
a
clean
condition
Clamp
the
suspension
strut
assembly
in
a
vice
and
fit
the
special
attachment
ST
2770000
I
to
the
lower
end
of
the
strut
Prise
off
the
dust
cover
snap
ring
Use
the
coil
spring
compressor
ST
35650001
to
slightly
compress
the
spring
Remove
the
self
locking
nut
and
take
off
the
mounting
insulator
thrust
bearing
spring
seat
and
bump
rubber
Slacken
the
spring
compressor
and
remove
the
spring
Push
down
the
shock
absorber
piston
until
it
bottoms
and
remove
the
gland
packing
with
the
special
tool
ST
35500001
Fig
J
14
Remove
the
O
ring
from
the
piston
rod
guide
and
lift
out
the
piston
rod
and
cy
linder
assembly
00
NOT
separate
the
piston
and
cylinder
which
are
serviced
as
a
complete
assembly
Drain
all
fluid
from
the
suspension
unit
and
shock
absorber
assembly
Wash
all
parts
thoroughly
not
rubber
parts
in
petrol
or
a
suitable
solvent
The
gland
packing
and
0
ring
must
be
renewed
at
each
overhaul
Always
refill
with
the
correct
grade
of
fresh
oil
in
accordance
with
the
information
in
the
table
below
ATSUGI
KAYABA
Part
No
54302
UO
100
UOl10
325
cc
332
cc
54302
3
U0500
1
54302
N
1200
325
cc
300
cc
The
oil
quantity
is
extremely
critical
as
it
will
affect
the
damping
power
of
the
shock
absorber
To
assemble
fit
the
rubber
O
ring
on
the
top
of
the
piston
rod
and
refit
the
gland
packing
Take
care
that
the
oil
seal
does
not
become
damaged
during
the
latter
operation
Lift
the
piston
rod
up
by
approximately
90
mm
3
5
in
before
tightening
the
gland
packing
to
facilitate
bleeding
then
tighten
the
packing
to
a
torque
reading
of
7
13
kgm
51
94Jb
ft
Bleed
the
shock
absorber
by
pumping
the
piston
rod
up
and
down
until
the
pressure
is
the
same
in
both
directions
Position
the
coil
spring
bump
rubber
spring
seat
and
dust
cover
on
the
top
of
the
piston
rod
The
piston
rod
must
be
in
the
fully
extended
position
Compress
the
spring
fit
the
strut
mounting
insulator
and
bearing
assembly
Tighten
the
self
locking
nut
to
a
torque
reading
of
6
7
5
kgm
43
541b
ft
SPRING
AND
STRUT
ASSEMBLY
Installation
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Thoroughly
grease
the
parts
marked
in
Fig
J
15
Tighten
the
fixing
bolts
to
the
torque
readings
given
in
TIGHfENING
TORQUES
TRANSVERSE
LINK
AND
LOWER
BALL
JOINT
Removal
The
transverse
link
with
rubber
bushing
is
connected
to
the
suspension
crosSlTIember
by
a
mounting
bolt
as
shown
in
Fig
J
11
and
to
the
strut
assembly
via
the
lower
ball
joint
87
STEERING
GEAR
Inspection
and
Adjustment
Thoroughly
clean
all
parts
and
examine
them
for
signs
of
wear
or
damage
Replace
any
comIK
nent
found
to
be
un
satisfactory
It
is
advisable
to
renew
the
assemblies
if
the
steering
column
or
ball
nut
assembly
is
defective
as
the
adjustment
procedures
required
to
overhaul
the
units
are
rather
involved
The
dismantling
and
adjustment
procedures
for
the
ball
nut
assembly
can
be
carried
out
in
the
following
manner
if
it
is
decided
that
overhaul
procedures
are
to
be
carried
out
Ball
nut
Remove
the
ball
guide
tube
clamp
withdraw
the
guide
tubes
from
the
ball
nut
and
collect
the
steel
balls
Turn
the
nut
upside
down
and
rotate
the
steering
column
backwards
and
forwards
until
all
36
steel
balls
have
dropped
out
of
the
ball
nut
Pull
the
ball
nut
from
the
column
Inspect
the
ball
guide
tubes
and
make
sure
that
they
are
not
damaged
Pay
particular
attention
to
the
ends
of
the
tubes
that
pick
up
the
balls
from
the
helical
path
Renew
the
tubes
if
they
are
unsatisfactory
Check
the
steel
balls
and
the
ball
nut
for
wear
and
replace
the
complete
unit
if
necessary
Assemble
the
ball
nut
on
the
worm
with
the
ball
guide
holes
upwards
Drop
18
balls
into
each
of
the
two
holes
on
the
same
side
of
the
ball
nut
until
all
36
balls
are
installed
The
column
should
be
gradually
turned
away
from
the
hole
being
filled
and
if
the
balls
are
stopped
by
the
end
of
the
column
hold
down
those
already
installed
with
a
clean
rod
or
punch
while
turning
the
column
several
times
in
the
reverse
direction
The
filling
of
the
circuit
can
then
be
continued
but
it
may
be
necessary
to
turn
the
column
backwards
and
forwards
holding
the
balls
down
first
in
one
hole
and
then
the
other
to
close
the
spaces
and
completely
fill
the
circuit
Place
the
remaining
22
balls
in
the
ball
guide
halves
11
balls
for
each
half
Fit
the
other
half
of
the
guide
tube
to
each
f11led
half
hold
the
two
halves
together
a
ld
plug
each
open
end
with
vaseline
to
prevent
the
balls
falling
out
Push
the
guide
tubes
into
the
ball
nut
guide
holes
and
assemble
the
guide
tube
clamp
Inspection
Oteck
the
axial
clearance
between
the
ball
nut
and
the
balls
If
the
clearance
exceeds
0
08
mrn
0
003
in
the
complete
unit
must
be
replaced
Inspect
the
gear
teeth
of
the
sector
shaft
for
wear
or
damage
Replace
any
worn
or
imperfect
bearings
Examine
the
steering
column
shaft
for
straightness
and
check
that
the
maximum
deflection
does
not
exceed
0
2mm
0
008
in
at
point
C
in
Fig
K
9
when
the
shaft
is
supported
at
points
A
and
B
Check
the
sector
shaft
and
steering
column
shaft
serrations
for
wear
Renew
the
parts
as
necessary
STEERING
GEAR
Assembly
and
Adjustment
Grease
the
lip
of
the
oil
seal
and
press
it
into
the
housing
Insert
the
column
assembly
into
the
column
jacket
and
fit
the
worm
bearing
shims
to
the
gear
housing
Install
the
flange
securing
bolts
and
tighten
them
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
8
2
5
kgm
13
18lb
ft
If
a
new
column
bearing
assembly
is
fitted
it
must
be
filled
with
bearing
grease
and
cemented
to
the
column
The
preload
of
the
worm
bearing
can
be
adjusted
by
altering
the
thickness
of
the
worm
bearing
shim
Four
shim
thicknesses
are
available
in
sizes
of
0
76
0
254
0
127
0
050mm
0
0300
0
100
0
005
in
0
002
in
This
adjustment
check
is
carried
out
without
the
sector
shaft
fitted
and
with
the
worm
bearings
oiled
Install
the
steering
wheel
as
shown
in
Fig
K
9
use
a
spring
balance
as
indicated
to
check
that
the
force
required
to
turn
the
wheel
is
between
4
0
8
0
kg
cm
56
l120z
inch
Select
a
suitable
shim
from
the
sizes
given
Assemble
the
selector
shaft
adjuster
with
a
shim
into
the
sector
shaft
Measure
the
end
clearance
of
the
adjuster
with
a
feeler
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
K
1
O
The
correct
clearance
is
0
01
0
03mm
0
0004
O
0012in
and
can
be
adjusted
by
varying
the
thickness
of
shim
Four
thicknesses
of
shim
are
available
as
follows
1
57
mm
0
0618
in
1
55
mm
0
0610
in
1
52
mm
0
0598
in
1
50
mm
0
0591
in
To
assemble
the
sector
shaft
into
the
gear
housing
rotate
the
column
by
hand
until
the
ball
nut
is
at
the
central
position
of
its
travel
so
that
the
centre
tooth
of
the
sector
shaft
enters
the
centre
tooth
space
of
the
ball
nut
Fit
a
new
gasket
and
push
the
sector
shaft
cover
and
sector
shaft
into
place
Ensure
that
a
certain
amount
of
play
is
present
between
the
rack
and
sector
teeth
before
tightening
the
cover
bolts
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
5
2
5
kgm
10
9
18
llb
ft
Temporarily
lock
the
adjusting
screw
with
the
locknut
Move
the
sector
shaft
several
times
from
the
pitman
arm
side
to
make
sure
that
it
turns
smoothly
Connect
the
pitman
arm
to
the
sector
shaft
taking
care
that
the
alignment
marks
on
the
arm
and
shaft
coincide
Adjust
the
backlash
with
the
steering
in
the
central
position
using
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
K
II
Turn
the
adjusting
screw
with
a
screwdriver
until
the
amount
of
free
movement
at
the
top
of
the
pitman
arm
is
within
O
lmm
0
0039
in
at
a
radius
of
127
mm
5
0
in
Lock
the
adjusting
screw
with
the
locknut
Fig
K
12
and
recheck
the
free
move
ment
Fill
the
steering
gear
housing
with
the
correct
amount
of
recommended
lubricant
Refit
the
steering
gear
to
the
vehicle
as
previously
described
Make
sure
that
the
steering
wheel
is
correctly
aligned
and
that
93
brake
shoe
is
in
contact
with
the
drum
The
adjuster
must
be
turned
from
the
rear
of
the
backplate
and
the
drum
turned
by
hand
When
the
shoe
contacts
the
drum
turn
the
adjuster
in
the
opposite
direction
until
the
shoe
is
just
clear
and
the
drum
can
be
rotated
freely
by
hand
Depress
the
brake
pedal
and
make
sure
that
the
brakes
operate
correctly
The
adjusters
must
be
released
slightly
if
the
brake
shoe
binds
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction
pads
Fig
L
14
The
disc
brakes
are
self
adjusting
but
the
friction
pads
should
be
checked
for
wear
every
5
000
km
3
000
miles
and
replaced
if
the
thickness
of
the
friction
lining
on
any
pad
is
less
than
1
0mm
0
004
in
In
effect
this
means
that
renewal
is
necessary
when
the
total
thickness
of
pad
and
lining
is
less
than
8
4mm
0
24
in
To
replace
the
friction
pads
proceed
as
follows
Siphon
out
some
of
the
fluid
in
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
remove
the
road
wheel
Remove
the
anti
rattle
clip
from
the
calliper
plate
Fig
L
lS
Unhook
the
hanger
spring
and
withdraw
the
brake
pads
and
shims
Fig
L
17
It
should
be
noted
that
the
friction
pads
must
be
replaced
as
a
set
and
renewed
at
both
sides
of
the
vehicle
otherwise
the
braking
action
will
be
uneven
Oean
the
calliper
and
pad
at
their
installation
positions
Press
the
pistons
into
the
calliper
bores
so
that
the
new
friction
Pads
can
be
installed
The
pistons
can
be
installed
by
applying
light
pressure
as
shown
in
Fig
L
16
but
care
must
be
taken
to
avoid
pushing
them
too
far
or
the
groove
of
the
piston
will
damage
the
seal
If
the
pistons
are
pushed
down
excessively
it
will
be
necessary
to
dismantle
the
calliper
as
described
under
the
appropriate
heading
Assemble
the
anti
squeal
shims
to
the
friction
pads
with
the
arrow
mark
on
the
shims
pointing
in
the
direction
of
forward
disc
rotation
Refit
the
pads
and
retaining
pins
and
assemble
the
coil
spring
to
the
retaining
pin
furthest
away
from
the
air
bleed
screw
After
installing
the
new
pads
and
shims
depress
the
brake
pedal
several
times
to
reposition
the
pistons
in
the
calliper
O1eck
the
fluid
level
in
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
and
refill
to
the
correct
level
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Removal
and
Dismantling
1
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
remove
the
road
wheel
and
take
out
the
friction
pads
2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
brake
tube
and
plug
the
opened
end
to
prevent
the
loss
of
fluid
3
Remove
the
bolts
securing
the
brake
calliper
to
the
knuckle
flange
and
remove
the
calliper
assembly
Fig
L
IS
4
Remove
the
hub
nut
and
withdraw
the
hub
and
disc
To
dismantle
the
calliper
remove
the
anti
rattle
clip
and
withdraw
the
brake
pads
Remove
the
tension
springs
and
pull
the
cylinder
out
of
the
calliper
Blow
out
the
piston
with
com
pressed
air
applied
at
the
brake
hose
connection
Oean
the
components
in
brake
fluid
and
examine
them
for
signs
of
wear
or
damage
The
cylinder
walls
can
be
carefully
polished
with
fine
emery
cloth
if
they
are
rusted
or
contaminated
If
the
parts
are
excessively
corroded
they
should
be
renewed
Replace
the
pistons
if
they
are
unevenly
worn
damaged
or
rusted
The
sliding
surface
of
the
piston
is
plated
and
no
attempt
should
be
made
to
use
emery
cloth
or
similar
abrasives
for
cleaning
purposes
Check
the
thickness
of
the
friction
pads
as
previously
described
and
replace
them
if
necessary
Renew
the
piston
seals
and
the
dust
covers
O1eck
the
brake
disc
for
scoring
and
out
of
round
The
standard
disc
thickness
is
10
Omm
0
0394
in
and
must
not
be
reground
below
8
4mm
0
3307
in
Check
the
disc
run
out
with
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
L
19
Position
the
gauge
near
the
outer
diameter
and
check
that
the
run
out
does
not
exceed
0
06mm
0
0024
in
FRONT
BRAKE
DISC
Assembly
and
Installation
Rinse
the
cylinder
bore
with
brake
fluid
and
fit
the
piston
seal
into
the
cylinder
groove
Fig
L
20
Fit
the
wiper
seal
and
lightly
grease
the
bore
of
the
cylinder
Clean
the
brake
disc
and
fit
it
to
the
hub
Install
the
hub
to
the
knuckle
spindle
Carefully
insert
the
piston
into
the
cylinder
until
the
face
of
the
piston
is
almost
flush
with
the
wiper
seal
retainer
The
relieved
part
of
the
piston
should
face
the
piston
pin
Fit
the
cylinder
to
the
calliper
plate
and
secure
in
position
with
the
two
torsion
springs
Assemble
the
hold
down
pin
the
spring
washer
and
the
nut
to
the
support
bracket
Secure
the
nut
with
a
cotter
pin
Assemble
the
calliper
to
the
mounting
bracket
using
the
pivot
pin
washer
spring
washer
and
nut
Tighten
the
nut
and
secure
with
a
cotter
pin
Hook
the
hold
down
bracket
to
the
top
of
the
mounting
bracket
and
turn
the
calliper
plate
to
make
sure
that
it
can
slide
smoothly
Fit
the
calliper
assembly
to
the
knuckle
flange
Fit
a
shim
to
the
inner
pad
and
insert
the
pad
Draw
the
calliper
towards
the
chassis
and
insert
the
lower
cuts
on
the
pad
into
the
mounting
bracket
and
push
the
pad
in
until
it
contacts
the
piston
Move
the
calliper
away
from
the
chassis
and
insert
the
upper
cuts
Centre
the
indentation
of
the
outer
pad
in
the
calliper
plate
Fit
the
anti
rattle
clip
Fig
L
14
103
inter
f
illl
@
l
l
Au
y
l
ver
I
R
H
I
Equaliler
b2nd
i
b7ke
Pl
te
Iock
band
buk
able
I
I
I
T
@A
Adjuster
cable
oo
pm
Odb
k
SPd
wm
LH
able
C
Note
@
Apply
bearing
grease
@APPIYch
S
i
Pin
fulcrum
hand
brab
lever
6c
1l
Clip
cable
frout
N
nd
brake
Fill
L21
Handbrake
linkage
1400
and
1600
c
c
Saloons
1
I
J
Pull
priDg
1
Clt
vU
Balance
leve
I
I
J
c
1
1
I
I
1
l
J
L
I
iL
Note
@
Apply
engine
oil
8
S
J
@
I
Aj
Fran
able
Rear
cable
L
I
r
f
7
n
t
i
Adjust
position
A
Fig
L
22
Handbrake
linkage
1400
and
1600
c
c
Estate
cars
1
Control
sUm
2
Control
ratchet
Xing
3
O
mtrol
ratchet
4
O
mtro
guide
5
Control
bracket
6
OJntrol
yoke
7
wer
spring
8
Control
lever
Fig
L
23
Handbrake
linkage
1800
c
c
models
104
able
s
Fig
L
19
Checking
the
brake
disc
for
run
out
1
j
v
fti
r
v
r
Fig
L
20
As
embling
the
piston
seals
and
retainer
ti
J
4
Fill
L
24
The
handbrake
cable
adjuster
Saloons
9
Front
cable
10
Centre
lever
II
Rear
cable
adjuster
12
DIble
lock
plate
13
Return
spring
14
RI
fU
cabk
15
Qevis
ElectrIcal
EquIpment
DESCRIPTION
BATTERY
Maintenance
STARTER
MOTOR
Removal
and
Dismantling
STARTER
MOTOR
Testing
STARTER
MOTOR
Assembly
and
Installation
ALTERNATOR
Removal
Dismantling
and
Inspection
DESCRIPTION
A
12
volt
negative
earth
electrical
system
is
used
in
which
the
battery
is
charged
by
an
alternator
In
the
alternator
a
magnetic
field
is
produced
by
the
rotor
which
consists
of
the
alternator
shaft
field
coil
p
le
pieces
and
slip
rings
Output
current
is
generated
in
the
armature
coils
located
in
the
stator
Six
silicon
diodes
are
incorporated
in
the
alternator
caSing
to
rectify
the
alternating
current
supply
A
voltage
regulator
and
pilot
lamp
relay
are
built
in
the
regulator
box
which
nonnally
does
not
give
trouble
or
require
attention
The
starter
motor
is
a
brush
type
series
wound
motor
in
which
positive
meshing
of
the
pinion
and
ring
gear
teeth
are
secured
by
means
of
an
overrunning
clutch
BATTERY
Maintenance
The
battery
should
be
maintained
in
a
clean
and
dry
condition
at
all
times
or
a
current
leakage
may
occur
between
the
terminals
If
frequent
topping
up
is
required
it
is
an
indication
of
overcharging
or
deterioration
of
the
battery
When
refitting
the
cables
clean
them
thoroughly
and
coat
their
terminals
and
the
terminal
posts
with
petroleum
jelly
Check
the
level
of
the
electrolyte
in
the
battery
at
frequent
intervals
and
top
up
if
necessary
to
the
level
mark
on
the
battery
case
with
distilled
water
A
hydrometer
test
should
be
carried
out
to
determine
the
state
of
charge
of
the
battery
by
measuring
the
specific
gravity
of
the
electrolyte
It
should
be
pointed
out
that
the
addition
of
sulphuric
acid
will
not
normally
be
necessary
and
should
only
be
carried
out
by
an
expert
when
required
The
specific
gravity
of
the
electrolyte
should
be
ascertained
with
the
battery
fully
charged
at
an
electrolyte
temperature
of
200C
680F
The
specific
gravity
of
the
electrolyte
decreases
or
increases
by
0
0007
when
its
temperature
rises
or
falls
by
10C
1
80F
respectively
The
temperature
referred
to
is
that
of
the
electrolyte
and
not
the
ambient
temperature
to
correct
a
reading
for
an
air
temperature
it
will
be
necessary
to
add
0
0035
to
the
reading
for
every
50C
above
200C
Conversely
0
0035
must
be
deducted
for
every
SOC
below
200C
Test
each
cell
separately
and
draw
the
liquid
into
the
hydrometer
several
times
if
a
built
in
thermometer
type
is
used
The
correct
specific
gravity
readings
should
be
as
follows
ALTERNATOR
Assembly
and
Installation
HEAD
LAMPS
Replacing
HORN
INSTRUMENT
PANEL
Removal
WINDSCREEN
WIPERS
WINDSCREEN
WASHERS
IGNITION
SWITCH
AND
STEERING
LOCK
Cold
climates
Temperature
climates
Tropical
climates
Permissible
value
Over
1
22
Over
1
20
Over
1
18
Fully
charged
at
200C
680F
1
28
1
26
1
23
The
battery
should
be
recharged
if
a
low
specific
gravity
reading
is
indicated
Always
disconnect
both
terminals
of
the
battery
when
charging
and
clean
the
terminal
posts
with
a
soda
solution
Remove
the
vent
plugs
and
keep
the
electrolyte
temperature
below
450C
l130F
during
charging
Check
the
specific
gravity
after
charging
and
if
it
is
above
1
260
at
200C
680C
add
distilled
water
STARTER
MOTOR
Removal
and
Dismantling
As
previously
stated
the
starter
motor
is
brush
type
series
wound
motor
in
which
the
positive
meshing
of
the
pinion
and
ring
gear
teeth
are
secured
by
an
overrunning
clutch
The
over
running
clutch
employs
a
shift
lever
to
slide
the
pinion
into
mesh
with
the
flywheel
ring
gear
teeth
when
the
starter
is
operated
When
the
engine
starts
the
pL
lion
is
permitted
to
overrun
the
clutch
and
armature
but
is
held
in
mesh
until
the
shift
lever
is
released
An
exploded
view
of
the
starter
is
shown
in
Fig
M
2
To
remove
the
starter
motor
proceed
as
follows
Disconnect
the
battery
earth
cable
2
Disconnect
the
black
and
yellow
wire
from
the
solenoid
terminal
and
the
black
cable
from
the
battery
terminal
3
Remove
the
two
bolts
securing
the
starter
motor
to
the
clutch
housing
Pull
the
starter
motor
assembly
forwards
and
withdraw
it
from
the
v
hicle
To
dismantle
the
starter
motor
ftrst
remove
the
brush
cover
and
lift
out
the
brushes
as
shown
in
Fig
M
3
Loosen
the
nut
securing
the
connecting
plate
to
the
solenoid
M
terminal
Remove
the
solenoid
retaining
screws
take
out
the
cotter
pin
and
withdraw
the
shift
lever
pin
Remove
the
solenoid
assembly
as
shown
in
Fig
M
4
Remove
the
two
through
bolts
and
rear
cover
assembly
then
remove
the
yoke
assembly
by
lightly
tapping
it
with
a
wooden
mallet
Fig
M
S
Withdraw
the
armature
and
shift
lever
Fig
M
6
Remove
the
pinion
stopper
from
the
armature
shaft
by
removing
the
stopper
washer
pushing
the
109
inter
r
0J
@
jll@
FIg
M
7
Over
unning
clutch
assembly
1
m
ILE
COMMUTATOR
0
5
to
0
8
mrtl
ROUND
O
0197
to
0
0315
nl
SEGMENT
MICA
CORRECr
INCORRECT
Fig
M
9
Undercutting
the
commutator
insulation
Fig
M
11
Testing
the
field
coils
for
continuity
5
y
SERIES
COIL
5
r
SHUNT
COIL
Fig
M
13
Testing
the
solenoid
witch
10
J
Fig
M
8
Checking
the
brush
pring
tension
Fig
M
lO
Checking
the
armature
shaft
for
run
out
J
I
I
J
I
L
j
J
j
Fig
M
12
Testing
the
field
coils
for
earthing
1
rl
wr
v
E
L
DIMENSION
131
7
to
32
3mm
1
248
to
1
272
in
I
Adjus
llUt
2
PluJlKeradjuster
F
8
M
14
Measuring
the
gap
between
pinion
and
pinion
stop
I
stopper
to
the
overrunning
clutch
side
and
removing
the
stopper
clip
Remove
the
stopper
and
overrunning
clutch
as
shown
inFig
M
7
Oean
the
dismantled
components
and
check
them
for
wear
or
damage
Cbeck
the
brushes
and
renew
them
if
worn
below
6
5mm
0
257
in
Fit
new
brushes
if
the
brush
contact
is
loose
Cbeck
the
brush
holders
and
spring
clips
and
make
sure
that
they
are
not
bent
or
distorted
The
brushes
should
move
freely
in
their
housings
and
can
be
eased
with
a
file
if
necessary
The
brush
spring
tension
should
be
approximately
0
8kg
1
76Ib
and
can
be
checked
with
a
spring
balance
as
shown
in
Fig
M
S
Armature
assembly
Make
sure
that
the
surface
of
the
commutator
is
not
rough
or
pitted
Oean
and
lightly
polish
with
a
No
500
emery
cloth
if
necessary
If
the
commutator
is
badly
worn
or
pitted
it
should
be
skimmed
in
a
lathe
only
a
light
cut
must
be
taken
to
remove
the
minimum
amount
of
metal
If
the
commutator
diameter
wear
limit
of
0
2mm
0
OS
in
is
exceeded
the
assembly
must
be
renewed
Undercut
the
mica
between
the
commutator
segments
when
the
depth
of
mica
from
the
surface
of
the
segment
is
less
than
0
2mm
0
08
in
The
depth
should
be
between
0
5
0
8mm
0
0197
0
0315
in
as
shown
in
Fig
M
9
The
armature
shaft
should
be
checked
for
straightness
by
mounting
between
the
centres
of
lathe
and
positioning
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
M
I
O
Renew
the
armature
if
the
bend
of
the
shaft
exceeds
0
08mm
0
0031
in
Field
coils
testing
Test
the
field
coils
for
continuity
by
connecting
a
circuit
tester
between
the
positive
terminal
of
the
field
coil
and
the
positive
terminal
of
the
brush
holder
as
shown
in
Fig
M
I
I
If
a
reading
is
not
obtained
the
field
circuit
or
coil
is
open
Cbnnect
the
tester
to
the
yoke
and
field
coil
positive
teoninal
as
shown
in
Fig
M
12
to
check
the
field
coils
for
earthing
Unsolder
the
connected
part
of
each
coil
and
check
the
circuit
for
earthing
in
a
similar
manner
Renew
the
field
coils
if
they
are
open
earthed
or
short
circuited
Outch
assembly
The
overrunning
clutch
must
be
replaced
if
it
is
slipping
or
dragging
Examine
the
pinion
and
sleeve
making
sure
that
the
sleeve
is
able
to
slide
freely
along
the
armature
shaft
spline
Inspect
the
pinion
teeth
for
signs
of
rubbing
and
check
the
fly
wheel
ring
gear
for
damage
or
wear
Bearings
Inspect
the
metal
bearing
bushes
for
wear
and
side
play
The
bushes
must
be
renewed
if
the
clearance
between
the
bearing
bush
and
armature
shaft
is
in
excess
of
0
02mm
0
008
in
New
bearing
bushes
must
be
pressed
in
so
that
they
are
flush
with
the
end
of
the
case
and
reamed
ou
t
to
give
a
clearance
of
0
03
0
10
mm
0
0012
0
0039
in
H
Solenoid
assembly
Inspect
the
solenoid
contact
surface
and
replace
if
showing
signs
of
wear
or
roughness
Replace
the
pinion
sleeve
spring
if
weakened
Check
the
series
coil
by
connecting
an
8
12
volt
supply
between
the
Sand
M
terminals
as
shown
in
Fig
M
13
The
series
coil
is
normal
if
the
plunger
operates
Test
the
shunt
coil
by
connecting
the
S
terminal
the
M
terminal
and
the
solenoid
body
as
shown
in
the
lower
illustration
of
Fig
M
13
Open
the
M
terminal
when
the
plunger
is
operated
the
shunt
coil
is
satisfactory
if
the
plunger
stays
in
the
operated
position
Measure
the
length
L
between
theylonger
adjusting
nut
and
solenoid
cover
Press
the
plunger
against
a
firm
surface
as
shown
in
Fig
M
14
and
check
that
the
dimension
is
within
the
figures
given
Turn
the
adjusting
nut
if
necessary
until
the
required
dimension
is
obtained
STARTER
MOTOR
Assembly
and
Installation
The
assembly
and
installation
procedures
are
a
reversal
of
the
removal
and
dismantling
operations
When
assembling
the
starter
smear
the
armature
shaft
spline
with
grease
and
lightly
oil
the
bearing
bushes
and
pinion
ALTERNATOR
The
alternator
is
driven
by
the
fan
belt
and
has
an
advant
age
over
a
dynamo
in
that
it
provides
current
at
low
engine
speeds
thereby
avoiding
battery
drain
Maintenance
is
not
normally
required
but
the
tension
of
the
fan
belt
should
be
checked
and
adjusted
if
necessary
as
described
in
the
section
COOLING
SYSTEM
Care
must
be
taken
not
to
overtighten
the
fan
belt
or
the
alternator
bearings
will
be
overloaded
The
alternator
output
can
be
checked
with
the
alternator
in
the
vehicle
by
carrying
out
the
following
test
Ensure
that
the
battery
is
fully
charged
Withdraw
the
connectors
from
the
alternator
F
and
N
terminals
and
connect
a
jumper
lead
between
the
F
and
A
terminals
Connect
a
voltmeter
to
the
E
and
A
alternator
terminals
with
the
negative
lead
to
terminal
E
and
the
positive
lead
to
the
terminal
A
as
shown
in
Fig
M
IS
Switch
the
headlamps
on
to
full
beam
and
start
the
engine
Increase
the
engine
speed
gradually
and
note
the
reading
on
the
voltmeter
when
the
engine
reaches
a
speed
of
approximately
lOaD
rpm
The
alternator
is
operating
satisfactorily
if
the
voltmeter
shows
a
reading
above
12
5
volts
If
the
reading
is
below
12
5
volts
the
alternator
is
defective
and
should
be
removed
for
inspection
ALTERNATOR
Removal
Disconnect
the
negative
lead
from
the
battery
and
the
two
lead
wires
and
connector
from
the
alternator
Slacken
the
alter
nator
mounting
bolts
and
take
off
the
fan
belt
Take
out
the
mounting
bolts
and
withdraw
the
alternator
from
the
vehicle
III