1969 DATSUN 610 wheel bolts

STEERING
GEAR

Inspection
and

Adjustment

Thoroughly
clean
all

parts
and
examine
them
for

signs

of
wear
or

damage
Replace
any
comIK
nent
found
to
be
un

satisfactory

It
is
advisable
to
renew
the
assemblies
if
the

steering
column

or
ball
nut

assembly
is
defective
as

the

adjustment
procedures

required
to
overhaul
the
units
are
rather
involved

The

dismantling
and

adjustment
procedures
for
the
ball

nut

assembly
can
be
carried
out
in

the
following
manner
if
it

is

decided
that
overhaul
procedures
are
to

be
carried
out

Ball
nut

Remove
the
ball

guide
tube

clamp
withdraw
the

guide

tubes
from
the
ball
nut
and
collect
the
steel
balls

Turn
the
nut

upside
down
and
rotate

the
steering
column

backwards
and
forwards
until
all

36
steel
balls
have

dropped

out
of
the
ball
nut
Pull
the
ball

nut
from
the
column

Inspect
the
ball

guide
tubes

and
make
sure

that

they
are

not

damaged
Pay
particular
attention

to
the
ends
of
the
tubes

that

pick
up
the

balls
from
the
helical

path
Renew
the
tubes
if

they
are

unsatisfactory
Check
the
steel
balls
and

the
ball
nut

for
wear
and

replace
the

complete
unit
if

necessary

Assemble
the
ball
nut
on

the
worm
with
the
ball

guide

holes

upwards
Drop
18
balls
into
each
of

the
two
holes
on
the

same
side
of
the
ball
nut

until
all
36
balls
are
installed
The

column
should
be

gradually
turned

away
from
the
hole

being

filled
and
if
the
balls
are

stopped
by
the
end
of
the
column
hold

down
those

already
installed
with
a

clean
rod
or

punch
while

turning
the
column
several
times
in
the
reverse
direction
The

filling
of
the
circuit
can
then
be
continued
but
it

may
be

necessary
to
turn
the
column
backwards
and
forwards

holding

the
balls
down
first
in
one

hole
and
then
the
other
to
close
the

spaces
and

completely
fill
the
circuit

Place
the

remaining
22
balls
in
the
ball

guide
halves
11

balls
for
each
half
Fit
the
other
half
of

the

guide
tube
to
each

f11led
half

hold
the
two
halves

together
a
ld

plug
each

open
end

with
vaseline
to

prevent
the
balls

falling
out

Push
the

guide
tubes
into
the

ball
nut

guide
holes
and

assemble
the

guide
tube

clamp

Inspection

Oteck
the
axial

clearance
between
the
ball
nut
and
the

balls
If
the
clearance
exceeds
0
08
mrn
0
003
in
the

complete

unit
must
be
replaced
Inspect
the

gear
teeth
of
the

sector

shaft
for
wear
or

damage
Replace
any
worn
or

imperfect

bearings
Examine
the

steering
column
shaft
for

straightness

and
check
that
the
maximum
deflection
does
not
exceed
0
2mm

0
008
in
at

point
C
in

Fig
K
9
when
the
shaft

is

supported

at

points
A
and
B
Check
the
sector
shaft
and

steering

column
shaft
serrations
for
wear
Renew
the

parts
as

necessary
STEERING
GEAR

Assembly
and

Adjustment

Grease
the

lip
of
the
oil
seal
and

press
it
into
the

housing

Insert
the
column

assembly
into

the
column

jacket
and
fit

the
worm

bearing
shims
to
the

gear
housing
Install
the

flange

securing
bolts
and

tighten
them
to
a

torque
reading
of

1
8

2
5

kgm
13
18lb
ft
If
a

new
column

bearing
assembly
is

fitted
it
must
be
filled
with

bearing
grease
and
cemented
to
the

column

The

preload
of
the
worm

bearing
can
be

adjusted
by

altering
the
thickness
of
the
worm
bearing
shim
Four
shim

thicknesses
are
available
in
sizes
of
0
76
0
254
0
127
0
050mm

0
0300
0
100
0
005
in
0
002
in

This

adjustment
check
is
carried
out
without

the
sector

shaft
fitted
and
with
the
worm

bearings
oiled

Install
the

steering
wheel
as
shown
in

Fig
K
9
use
a

spring

balance
as
indicated
to
check
that
the
force
required
to
turn

the
wheel
is
between
4
0
8
0

kg
cm
56
l120z

inch

Select
a
suitable
shim
from
the
sizes

given

Assemble
the
selector
shaft

adjuster
with
a
shim
into
the

sector
shaft
Measure
the
end
clearance
of
the

adjuster
with
a

feeler

gauge
as

shown
in
Fig
K
1
O

The
correct
clearance
is
0
01
0
03mm
0
0004
O
0012in

and
can
be

adjusted
by
varying
the
thickness
of
shim
Four

thicknesses
of
shim
are
available
as

follows

1
57
mm
0
0618
in

1
55
mm
0
0610
in

1
52
mm
0
0598

in

1
50
mm
0
0591
in

To
assemble
the
sector
shaft
into
the
gear
housing
rotate

the
column

by
hand
until
the
ball
nut
is
at
the
central

position

of
its
travel
so
that
the
centre
tooth
of
the
sector
shaft
enters

the
centre
tooth

space
of

the
ball
nut
Fit
a
new

gasket
and

push

the

sector
shaft
cover

and
sector
shaft
into

place

Ensure
that
a
certain
amount
of

play
is

present
between

the
rack
and
sector
teeth
before

tightening
the
cover

bolts
to

a

torque
reading
of
1
5
2
5

kgm
10
9
18
llb
ft

Temporarily
lock
the

adjusting
screw
with

the
locknut

Move
the
sector
shaft
several
times
from

the

pitman
arm
side

to
make
sure
that
it
turns

smoothly

Connect
the

pitman
arm
to
the
sector
shaft

taking
care

that
the

alignment
marks
on

the
arm
and
shaft
coincide

Adjust
the
backlash
with

the
steering
in

the
central

position
using
a
dial

gauge
as
shown
in

Fig
K
II
Turn
the

adjusting
screw
with
a
screwdriver
until
the
amount
of
free

movement
at
the

top
of
the

pitman
arm
is

within
O
lmm

0
0039
in
at
a

radius
of

127
mm
5
0
in
Lock
the

adjusting

screw
with
the
locknut
Fig
K
12
and
recheck
the
free
move

ment

Fill
the

steering
gear
housing
with
the
correct
amount
of

recommended
lubricant

Refit

the

steering
gear
to
the
vehicle
as

previously
described

Make
sure

that
the
steering
wheel
is

correctly
aligned
and
that

93

the

system

operates
smoothly

COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING

The

collapsible
steering
column
is

designed
so
that

compression
occurs
when
the
vehicle
is
involved
in
a

head
on

collision
See

Fig
K
13

Two
forces
can
be
considered
when
a
collision
of
this

type
takes

place
These

being
the

primary
force
in
which
the

forward
motion
of
the
car
is

suddenly
halted
and
the

secondary

force

as
the
driver
continues
in

a
forward
direction
onto
the

steering
wheel

and
column
The

collapsible
column
is

designed

so
that
it
does
not
move
to
the
rear
i
e
into
the

driving
com

partment
when

the

primary
force
or
forward

motion
of
the
car

is

suddenly
halted
When
the

secondary
force
takes

place
as

the
driver
is
thrown
forward

the
column

jacket
gradually

collapses
and

partially
absorbs
the
amount
of

impact

The

collapsible

type
of
column
is
no
more

susceptible
to

damage
than
an

ordinary
column
when
it

is
installed
in
the

vehicle
however
when
a

collapsible
column

is
removed
it
must

be

carefully
handled
A

sharp
blow
on
the
end
of
the
shaft
or

gear
change
levers

dropping
or

leaning
on

the

assembly
can

cause

the
column

jacket
to
bend

particularly
at
the
bellows

part
which
absorbs
the
shock

The

steering
movement
is
transmitted

by
the

lower
shaft

and

upper
tube
The
lower
shaft
exterior
and

upper
tube

interior
are

tightly
fitted

together
with
four

plastic

pins
com

pletely

eliminating

any
gap

When
a
collision
occurs
the

plastic
pins
shear

and
the
lower

shaft
enters

the

upper
tube
this
action
will
cause
the
shaft
end

to

spread
and
the
lower
shaft
cannot

then
be
withdrawn
unless

an

extremely
high
load
is

applied

The
shaft
is

prevented
from

moving
towards
the
drivers

compartment
when
the

primary
force

takes

place
i

e
when

the
forward
motion
of
the
vehicle
is

suddenly
halted

by
the

three

stoppers
on

the

jacket
tube
The

steering
lock
collar

mounted
to
the
shaft
contacts

the
stoppers
and

prevents
a
rear

ward
movement

A
part
of

the

jacket
tube
is

specially
formed
to
act
as
an

energy
absorbing

part
of
the

collapsible

steering
The

upper

and
lower

guide
tubes

joined
with

polyacetal
resin
are

inserted

into
the
mesh
tube
so
that

energy
generated
by
a

collision
can

be
absorbed
as

smoothly
as

possible
with
a

low
load

The

steering
column

clamp
shown
in

Fig
K
14
is
secured

to

the

jacket
tube
and

body
by
bolts
with
two
aluminium

slidings
blocks
set
to
the

body
by
plastic
pins
An

impact
from

the
drivers
side
causes

the

plastic
pins
to
shear

and
leave
the

sliding
block
in
the
column

clamp
side

allowing
the

clamp
to

move
with
the

jacket
as
it

collapses

COLLAPSffiLE
STEERING
Removal

and

Inspection

Steering
Wheel

I
Disconnect
the

battery
earth
cable

2
Disconnect
the
horn

wiring
and

remove
the
horn

pad
3
Remove
the

steering
wheel
nut

using
the

special
puller

ST

27180000

Eig
K
15
Remove
the
column
shell
covers

Fig
K
16
and
the
turn

signal
switch

assembly

Column
shaft

4
Remove
the
cotter

pin
and
detach
the
shift

rod
Automatic

Transmission
Remove
the
bolt

securing
the
worm
shaft

and

coupling
Fig
K
17

5
Take
out

the
bolts

securing
the
column
tube

flange
to
the

dash

panel
and
the
bolts

securing
the
column

clamp
With

draw
the

steering
column
shaft
towards
the
car
interior

A
careful
check
should

be
made
to
ensure

that
the

assembly

is
not

damaged
in

any
way

Pull
out
the
lower
shaft

tap
the
column

clamp
towards

the

steering
wheel
end
and
remove

the
screws

securing
the

upper
and
lower
tubes

Separate
the

upper
and
lower

tubes

Remove
the

snap
ring
from

the

upper
end
of
the
column

pull

the

upper
jacket
down
and

separate
it
from
the

upper
jacket

tube

Take
care
not
to

damage
the

bearing
Remove
the

plain

washer

and

spring
from
the

upper
shaft

Check
the

column

bearings
for

damage
and
lack
of
smooth

ness

Apply
multi

purpose
grease
to
the

bearing
if

necessary

Inspect
the

jacket
tubes
for

signs
of
deformation
renew
the

tubes
if

necessary
Check
the
dimension

A
in

Fig
K
1B
to

make
SUfe
that

the

jacket
has
not
been
crushed

Check
the

dimension
B

Fig
K
14

COLLAPSffiLE
STEERING

Assembly
and
Installation

Assembly
is
a
reversal
of

the

dismantling
procedure
noting

the

following

points

Lubricate
the
column

bearing
the

spring
and
dust
seal

sliding

parts
Ensure
that
the

upper
shaft

steering
lock
hole
and

the

steering
lock
are

correctly
positioned
Fig
K
19
When

assembling
the
lower
shaft
take
care
to

coincide
the
notch
on

the
universal

joint
with

the

punched
mark
on
the
shaft

Coat
the

upper
and
lower
shaft

serrations
with
multi

purpose

grease
Set
the

steering
in
the

straight
ahead

position
and
fit

the

column
shaft
to

the

steering
gear
See

Fig
K
20
Insert
the

column

through
the
dash
board

and
install
it
to
the

gear
so
that

the

punch
mark
at
the

top
of

the
shaft
is
forced

upwards
Slide

the

universal

joint
to

the

steering
gear
and

temporarily
install

the
column

clamp
6
Fit

the
lower
cover

flange
7
and

tighten

the
column

clamp
bolts

Check
the

steering
wheel

alignment
with
the
wheels
in
the

straight
ahead

position
If
the

steering
wheel

and

steering
lock

are

misaligned
by
more
than
35
mm

I
4
in
from
the
vertical

position
femove

the

steering
wheel
and
re
centre

it

STEERING

LINKAGE
Removal

Jack

up
the
front
of
the

vehicle
and

support
it
on

stands

2
Remove
the

cotterpins
and
castle
nuts

fastening
the
tie
rod

ball

joints
to
the
knuckle
arms

95

3
Free

the
ball
studs
from
the
knuckle
arms

by
placing
a

hammer
behind
the
boss
and
striking
the

opposite
side

with
another
hammer

4
Remove
the
centre

tie
rod
ball

studs
in
a
similar
manner

to
that
described
above
and
remove
the
centre

tie
rod
and

outer

tie
rods
as
an

assembly

5
Remove
the
idler

assembly
from
the
side
member

by
with

drawing
the

retaining
bolts

SfEERING
LINKAGE

Dismantling

Disconnect
the
tie
rods
from
the

centre
rod

Loosen
the

clamp
bolts
unscrew
the
socket

assembly
and
remove
the

socket
from

the
tie
rods
Remove
the
idler
arm
nut

and
dismantle

the
idler

assembly

Check
the
idler
arm
rubber

bushing
for

signs
of

damage

wear
or

play
and

replace
the

bushing
if

necessary
Oteck
the

centre
and
outer

tie
rod
for

damage
or

bending

Inspect
the
ball

joints
and

replace
them
i
the
amount
of

play
is

excessive
or
if

the
dust
cover

is
cracked
Further
infor

mation
can
be
found
in
the
section
FRONT
SUSPENSION

See
also

Figs
K
21

and
K
22
STEERING
LINKAGE

Assembly
and
Installation

Assembly
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal

procedure
noting

the

following

points

To

assembly
the
idler
arm

assembly
coat

the
outer
dia

meter
of
the

bushing
with

soapy
water
and

press
the

bushing

into
the
idler
arm

until
the

bushing
protrudes
equally
at
both

sides

Fit
the
idler
arm

body
in
the
rubber

bushing
Ensure
that

the
centre
line
of
the

idler
arm
is

parallel
with
the
centre
line

of
the
chassis

Installation
is
a

reversal
of

the
removal

procedure
The

outer
tie
rods
must
be
set
so
that
the

lengths
between
the
ball

stud
centres
are
309

5
mm

12
18
in
for
the
1400
and
1600cc

models
and
313
2
mm

12
33
in
for
the
1800cc

models

Tighten
the
ball
stud
nut

to
a

torque
reading
of
5
5
7
6

kgm
39
8
55Ib
ft
the
idler
ann
nut
to
5
5
7

6

kgm

39
8
55Ib
ft
and
the

pitman
arm
nut
to
14

kgm
lOllb
ft

The
front
wheel

alignment
toe
in
and

steering
angle
should

be
checked
and

adjusted
as
described
in

the
section
FRONT

SUSPENSION

TechnIcal
Data

Steering
type

Gear
ratio

Steering
angle

Inner
wheel

l800cc

Outer
wheel
1800
cc

Inner
wheel

1400
and
1600cc

Saloon

1400
and
1600cc
Estate

Outer
wheel
1400
and
1600cc

Saloon

1400
and
1600cc
Estate

Steering
wheel

play
1400
and

1600cc

Steering
wheel

play
1800cc

Standard
total
thickness
of

worm

bearing
shims

End

play
between
sector
shaft

and

adjusting
screw

Initial

turning

torque
of

worm

bearing

l800cc
models

1400
and
1600cc
models
Worm
and
recirculating
ball

15
0
I

370
380

30040
32040

380

380
30

31020

330

25
30mm
0
98
1
18
in

less
than
35mm
1
378
in

at
outer

rim
of

steering

wheel

1
5
mm
0
059
in

0
0
I
0
03mm

0
0004
0
0012
in

4
0
6
0

kg
cm
55
6
83
4

in
oz

4
0
8
0

kg
cm

55
6
112

in

oz

97

BrakIng

System

DESCRIPTION

MASTER
CYLINDER
Removal

dismantling
and
Overhaul

BRAKE
LINES

Replacing

BRAKE
WARNING
LIGHT
SWITCH

FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE
Removal

inspection
and
Overhaul

REAR
DRUM
BRAKE
Removal

inspection
and
Overhaul

FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE

Adjusting

DESCRIPTION

The
vehicle
is
fitted
with
either
disc

brakes
or
two

leading

shoe

type
drum
brakes
for
the
front
wheels
and

leading
trailing

shoe

type
drum
brakes
for

the
rear

wheels

All
brakes
are

hydraulically
operated
from
the
brake

pedal

with
the
rear
brakes

additionally
operated

by
a
mechanical

handbrake
and

linkage
system
Either
a

single
or
a
tandem

master

cylinder
can
be
fitted
The
tandem
master

cylinder

provides
a
dual

braking
circuit
in
which
the
front
and
rear

brakes
are

separately
supplied
If
ODe
circuit
fails
the
other

circuit
will

still

operate
and
provide
a
reduced
but
efficient

braking
action

The
brake

pipes
are

double
wall
steel
tubes
and
are

galvanized
at
the
sections
beneath
the
vehicle
floor
to

prevent

corrosion

MASTER

CYLINDER
Removal

Either
a

tandem
or

single
master

cylinder
can

be
fitted

to

the
vehicle

Fig
L
I
shows
a
cross
sectional
view

through
the

tandem
master

cylinder
and

Fig
L
2
a
cross

sectional
view

through
the

single
master

cylinder
The
removal
and

dismantling

procedures
are

similar
for
both

types
and
are

carried
out
in

the

following
manner

1
Remove
the
clevis

pin
and

separate
the
brake

pedal
from

the
master

cylinder
push
rod

2
Disconnect
the

brake
tubes
from

the
master

cylinder

3
Remove

the
master

cylinder
mounting
bolts
withdraw

the
shims
and
take
out
the
master

cylinder
assembly

MASfER
CYLINDER

Dismantling
and
Overhaul

Drain
the
brake
fluid
from
the

cylinder
and
remove
the

stopper
bolt
Remove
the

dust
cover

the

snap
ring
the

stopper

ring
and
the

pusbrod
assembly

Take

out
the
primary

piston
and

secondary
piston

assemblies
and
the

piston
spring

Remove
the
valve

cap
and
take
out
the
valve

assembly

Oean
all
the

components
with
brake

fluid
and
check

them

for
wear
or

damage
Make
sure
that
the

cylinder
bore
and

piston
are
not

damaged
or

unevenly
worn

The
clearance

between

cylinder
and

piston
must
not
exceed
0
15mm
0
006

in
REAR
DRUM
BRAKE

Adjusting

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction

pads

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Removal
and

Dismantling

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE

Assembly
and
Installation

HANDBRAKE
Removal
and
Installation

BLEEDING
THE
HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM

BRAKE
PEDAL
ADJUSTMENT

Check
the
return

springs
for

damage
or
loss

of
tension

Replace
any
part
which

is
in
an

unsatisfactory
condition

MASfER
CYLINDER

Assembly
and
Installation

Assembly
of
the
master

cylinder
is
a
reversal
of
the

dismantling
procedure
noting
the

following
points

Wet
the

cylinder
bore
and

piston
etc

with
brake
fluid

before

assembling
Care
must
be
taken
to

prevent
dust
and

foreign
matter

entering
the

cylinder
and
reservoir
Ensure
that

cups
and
soals
are
not

damaged
when

locating
them

After
the
master

cylinder
is
reinstalled
the

system
must

be
bled
and
the

pedal
height
adjusted
as
described
under
the

appropriate
headings

BRAKE
LINES

Replacing

The

layout
of
the
metal
brake

pipes
and
flexible

hoses
is

shown
in

Fig
L
3

The
brake

pipes
can

be
removed

by
taking
off
the
flare

nuts
at
both
ends
of
the

pipe
and

removing
the

clips
securing

the

pipe
to

the

body
Similarly
the
brake
hoses
can
be
removed

by
taking
off
the
flare
nuts

Thoroughly
clean
the

pipe
or
hose
after

removing
from

the
vehicle
and
check
for

collapsing
cracking
or

rusting
of

the

pipe
and
for

signs
of

expansion
and

weakening
of
the
hose

Any
pipe
or
hose
which
is
not
in
a

satisfactory
condition
must

be
renewed
Remove

any
dust
from
the
brake

clip
and
replace

the

clip
if
the

vinyl
coating
is
torn

Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal

procedure
Make

sure
that
the
brake

pipes
cannot
vibrate

against
any
part
of

the
vehicle
and
the
brake
hoses
are
not
twisted
and

rubbing

against
the

tyres
or

suspension
units
If
the
brake
hose
is

disconnected
from

the
three
way
connector
on

the
rear
axle

housing
it
will
be

necessary
to
fit
a
new

copper
sealing
washer

Do
not

overtighten
the
installation
flare
nuts

the
correct

tightening
torques
are
as
follows

Three

way
connector
master

cylinder
and
brake
hoses

1
5
1
8

kgm
II
13Ib
ft

Fill
the
master

cylinder
with
recommended
fluid
and
bleed

the

system
as
described
under
the

appropriate
heading
Make

sure
that
fluid
is
not

leaking
from

any

part
of
the

system
by

fully
depressing
the
brake

pedal
for
several
seconds
Check
the

pipes
and
connections
and

replace

any
defective

part

99

inter
Il
IT
Q

riA

I

I

II

l

11
L
6
Removing
the
wbeel

cylindeIli

1
Brd
be

2
Wllul

cylinder
bolts

J
BridI
pip

I

g
L
8
Front
drum
brake
lubricating

positions

Fig
L
9
Removing
the
rear
wheel

cylinder

1
BnrIce

pip

2
Handblllke
cable

J
CIMJ

pin

4
Lnu

5
DustCI1ft
1
Fig
L
7
Front
drum
brake

components
J

T
Broke
rim

Return

Print

J
rhoe
cmembly

4
Front
wM
1

cylinder

5
Rear
wMtl

cylindu

6
A
iT
bleed
W

o

1

Fig
L
I0
Rear
drum
brake

components

1

BllIke
ckp
tzrc

2
RthUn

spring

3

Brate

ad
JlSkr

4
Front
brake
h

5

Anti
rottk

pin

6
Lever

7
Wheel

cylinder
8
Return
sprins

9
Air

bleed
JCrew

10

Lockp
orc

11

Lockp
tzrc

12

Lockplizte

13
Dust
cover

14

Rt
t1T
brake
dr
oe

Fig
L
II
View
of
the
rear
drum
brake

I
Broke
3Iwe

adjuJter

2
BraJ
e
shot

3
Retum

4
A
ntHuttle

pin

100
11
L
12
The
front
brake
shoe

adjusting

cams

BRAKE
WARNING
UGHT
SWITCH

A

hydraulically
operated
warning
light
switch
is
located

in
the

engine

compartment
Fig
LA

The
front
and
rear
brake

systems
of
the
dual
circuit
are

connected
to

the
switch
which

provides
a

warning
via
the

warning
light
on
the
instrument

panel
when
a

pressure
difference

of
13
17

kg

sq
cm
185
242Ib

sq
in
occurs
between
the

front
and
rear
brake

systems
The

switch
cannot
be

repaired

and
must

be
renewed
if

faulty

FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE
Removal

1
Jack

up
the
front
of

the
vehicle

and

support
it
on
stands

2
Remove
the
brake
drum
and
the
hub

cap
and
hub

assembly

3
Disconnect
the
brake

pipe
at
the
bracket
on
the
front

suspension
strut
as

previously
described
in
the
section

FRONT
SUSPENSION

4
Unhook
the
two
return

springs
shown
in

Fig
L
5
and

remove

the
brake
shoes

5
Disconnect
the

bridge
pipe
3
in

Fig
L
6
and
remove

the

two
wheel

cylinders

6
Take
out

the
installation
bolts
and
withdraw
the
brake

backplate
from
the

spindle

FRONT
DRUM

BRAKE

Inspection
and
Overhaul

Examine
the
brake
drums
for

scoring
and
out
of
round

The
maximum

permissible
inner
diameter
of
the

drums
must

not
exceed
228
6mm
9
00
in
and
out

of
round
should
be

below
0
02mm
0
0008in

The
brake
shoe

linings
must
re
renewed
when
worn
down

to
a
thickness
of
1
5mm
0
06

in
or
below
Renew
the

linings
if

they
are
contaminated
in

any
way
or

incorrectly

seated
The

complete
set

of

linings
must

be

replaced
if
any

single
lining
is

unsatisfactory

O1eck

the
shoe
return

springs
and
if

they
have
become

weakened

replace
them

Withdraw
the

pistons
and

springs
from
the
wheel

cylinders

and

inspect
the
bore
of
the

cylinders
for

signs
of

wear

corrosion
or

damage

Renew
the

cylinder
and
the

piston
if
the
clearance
between

the
two

exceeds
O
15mm

0
006

in
Renew
the
rubber
boots

and

cups

FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE

Assembly
and
Installation

Assembly
and
installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
and

dismantling
procedure
noting
the

fOllowing
points

Apply
a
thin

layer
of

special
grease
to

the
piston

cup
and

other
rubber

parts
when

assembling
the
wheel

cylinder
The

internal

components
of
the

cylinder
should
be

dipped
in
brake

fluid
and
assembled
whilst
still
wet
Install
the
wheel

cylinders
on
the
brake

backplate
and

smear
the

cylinder
backplate
and

cylinder
lever
fulcrum
with

grease
Fig
L
8

Tighten
the

backplate
mounting
bolts
to
a

torque
reading

of
2
7
3
7

kgm
19
5
26
71b
ft

Adjust
the
brake
shoes
and
bleed
the

hydraulic
system
as

described
under
the

appropriate
headings

REAR
DRUM
BRAKE
REMOVAL

Fig
L
IO

Jack

up
the
vehicle
at
the
rear
and

support
it
on

stands

Remove
the
road
wheel

2
Release
the
handbrake
remove
the
clevis

pin
3
from
the

rear
wheel

cylinder
lever
4
see

Fig
L
9
Disconnect
the

handbrake
cable
2
and
remove

the
return

spring
I

3
Remove
the
brake
drum
Remove
the
shoe
retainers
the

return

springs
and
brake
shoes

Fig
L
II

4
Disconnect
the
fluid
line
from
the
wheel

cylinders
and

plug

the
opened
end
to

prevent
to
loss
of
fluid

5
Remove
the
dust
cover

adjusting
shims
and

plates
then

remove
the
wheel

cylinder
from
the

backplate

6
The
brake

backplate
and
axle
shaft

assembly
can
be
with

drawn
if

necessary
by
taking
out
the
four

flange
bolts

and

removing
the

assembly
as
described
in
the
section

REAR
AXLE
AND
REAR
SUSPENSION

REAR
DRUM
BRAKE

Inspection
and
Overhaul

The

inspection
and
overhaul

procedures
fpr
the
rear

drum

brakes
are
similar
to

those

previously
described
for
the
front

drum
brakes

Tighten
the
brake

backplate
mounting
bolts
to
a

torque

reading
of

3
9
5
3

kgm
28
38Ib
ft

FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE

Adjusting

Jack

up
the
vehicle
and

pump
the
brake

pedal
several
times

With
the
brake
drum
installed
turn
one
of

the
adjusting
cams

clockwise
until

the
brake
shoe
is
in
contact
with
the
drum

This

operation
is
carried
out
from
the
rear
of

the
backplate

When
the
brake
shoe
contacts
the
drum
turn
the
cam
in

the

opposite
direction
until
the
shoe
is

just
clear
and
the
brake

drum
can
be
rotated

freely
by
hand

Repeat
the

operation
on
the
other

adjusting
cam
and
then

depress
the
brake

pedal
to
make
sure
that
the
brakes
are

working

correctly
The

adjusters
must
be
released

slightly
if
the
brake

drum
binds
when
turned

by
hand

Fig
L
12
shows
the

adjusting

cams

REAR
DRUM
BRAKE

Adjusting

Jack

up
the
vehicle
at

the
rear
and

pump
the
brake

pedal

several
times
Turn
the
brake
shoe

adjuster
Fig
L
13
until
the

101

brake
shoe
is
in
contact
with
the
drum
The

adjuster
must
be

turned
from

the
rear
of

the

backplate
and
the
drum
turned

by

hand

When
the
shoe
contacts
the
drum
turn
the

adjuster
in

the

opposite
direction
until
the

shoe
is

just
clear
and
the
drum

can

be
rotated

freely
by
hand

Depress
the
brake

pedal
and
make
sure
that
the
brakes

operate
correctly
The

adjusters
must

be
released

slightly
if

the

brake
shoe
binds

FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction

pads
Fig
L
14

The
disc
brakes
are
self

adjusting
but
the
friction

pads

should
be
checked
for
wear

every
5
000
km
3
000
miles
and

replaced
if
the
thickness
of

the
friction

lining
on

any

pad
is
less

than
1
0mm
0
004
in
In
effect
this
means
that
renewal
is

necessary
when
the
total
thickness
of

pad
and

lining
is
less
than

8
4mm
0
24
in

To

replace
the
friction

pads
proceed
as

follows

Siphon

out
some
of
the
fluid
in
the
master

cylinder
reservoir
Jack

up

the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
remove

the
road
wheel

Remove
the
anti
rattle

clip
from
the

calliper
plate
Fig
L
lS

Unhook
the

hanger
spring
and
withdraw
the
brake

pads

and
shims

Fig
L
17

It
should
be
noted
that
the
friction

pads
must
be

replaced

as
a
set
and
renewed
at
both
sides
of
the
vehicle
otherwise
the

braking
action
will
be
uneven

Oean
the

calliper
and

pad
at

their
installation

positions

Press
the

pistons
into
the

calliper
bores
so
that
the
new
friction

Pads
can
be
installed
The

pistons
can

be
installed

by
applying

light

pressure
as
shown
in

Fig
L

16
but
care
must

be
taken
to

avoid

pushing
them
too
far
or
the

groove
of
the

piston
will

damage
the
seal

If
the

pistons
are

pushed
down

excessively
it
will
be

necessary
to
dismantle
the

calliper
as

described
under
the

appropriate
heading

Assemble
the

anti

squeal
shims
to
the
friction

pads
with

the
arrow
mark
on
the
shims

pointing
in
the
direction
of

forward
disc
rotation

Refit
the

pads
and

retaining
pins
and
assemble
the
coil

spring
to

the

retaining
pin
furthest
away
from

the
air
bleed
screw

After

installing
the
new

pads
and
shims

depress
the
brake

pedal
several
times
to

reposition
the
pistons
in
the

calliper

O1eck
the
fluid
level

in
the
master

cylinder
reservoir
and
refill

to
the
correct
level

FRONT
DISC

BRAKE
Removal
and

Dismantling

1
Jack

up
the
front
of

the
vehicle
remove
the
road
wheel

and
take
out

the
friction

pads

2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
brake

tube
and

plug

the

opened
end
to

prevent
the
loss
of
fluid
3
Remove
the
bolts

securing
the
brake

calliper
to

the

knuckle

flange
and
remove
the

calliper
assembly
Fig
L
IS

4
Remove
the
hub
nut

and
withdraw
the
hub
and
disc

To
dismantle
the
calliper
remove
the
anti
rattle

clip
and

withdraw
the
brake

pads
Remove
the
tension

springs
and

pull

the
cylinder
out
of
the

calliper
Blow
out

the
piston
with
com

pressed
air

applied
at

the
brake
hose
connection

Oean
the

components
in
brake
fluid
and
examine
them

for

signs
of
wear
or

damage

The

cylinder
walls
can

be
carefully
polished
with
fine

emery
cloth
if

they
are
rusted
or
contaminated
If
the

parts

are

excessively
corroded

they
should
be
renewed

Replace
the

pistons
if

they
are

unevenly
worn

damaged

or
rusted
The
sliding
surface
of
the

piston
is

plated
and
no

attempt
should
be
made
to

use

emery
cloth
or
similar
abrasives

for

cleaning
purposes

Check
the
thickness
of
the
friction
pads
as

previously

described
and
replace
them
if

necessary
Renew
the

piston
seals

and
the
dust
covers

O1eck
the
brake
disc
for

scoring
and
out
of
round
The

standard
disc
thickness
is
10
Omm
0
0394
in
and
must
not

be

reground
below
8
4mm
0
3307
in

Check
the
disc
run
out
with
a
dial

gauge
as
shown
in

Fig

L
19
Position
the
gauge
near
the
outer
diameter
and
check
that

the
run
out
does
not

exceed
0
06mm
0
0024
in

FRONT
BRAKE
DISC
Assembly
and
Installation

Rinse
the

cylinder
bore
with
brake
fluid
and
fit
the

piston

seal
into
the

cylinder

groove
Fig
L
20
Fit
the
wiper
seal
and

lightly
grease
the
bore
of
the

cylinder
Clean
the
brake
disc

and
fit
it
to
the
hub
Install
the
hub
to
the
knuckle

spindle

Carefully
insert
the

piston
into
the

cylinder
until
the
face

of
the

piston
is
almost
flush
with

the

wiper
seal
retainer
The

relieved

part
of
the

piston
should
face
the

piston
pin

Fit
the
cylinder
to
the

calliper
plate
and
secure
in

position

with
the
two
torsion

springs
Assemble
the
hold
down
pin

the

spring
washer
and
the
nut
to

the

support
bracket
Secure

the
nut

with
a
cotter

pin

Assemble
the

calliper
to

the
mounting
bracket

using
the

pivot
pin
washer

spring
washer
and
nut

Tighten
the
nut
and

secure
with
a
cotter

pin
Hook
the
hold
down
bracket
to
the

top
of
the

mounting
bracket
and
turn
the

calliper
plate
to

make

sure

that
it
can
slide

smoothly
Fit
the

calliper
assembly
to
the

knuckle

flange

Fit
a
shim
to
the
inner

pad
and
insert
the

pad
Draw
the

calliper
towards
the
chassis
and
insert
the
lower
cuts
on

the

pad

into
the

mounting
bracket
and

push
the

pad
in
until
it
contacts

the

piston
Move
the

calliper
away
from
the
chassis
and
insert

the

upper
cuts
Centre
the
indentation
of

the
outer

pad
in
the

calliper
plate
Fit
the
anti
rattle

clip
Fig
L
14

103

ElectrIcal

EquIpment

DESCRIPTION

BATTERY
Maintenance

STARTER
MOTOR

Removal
and

Dismantling

STARTER
MOTOR

Testing

STARTER
MOTOR

Assembly
and
Installation

ALTERNATOR
Removal

Dismantling
and

Inspection

DESCRIPTION

A
12
volt

negative
earth
electrical

system
is
used
in
which

the

battery
is

charged
by
an
alternator
In
the
alternator
a

magnetic
field
is

produced
by
the
rotor

which
consists
of
the

alternator
shaft
field
coil

p
le

pieces
and

slip
rings

Output
current
is

generated
in
the
armature
coils
located

in
the
stator
Six
silicon
diodes
are

incorporated
in
the
alternator

caSing
to

rectify
the

alternating
current

supply
A
voltage

regulator
and

pilot
lamp
relay
are
built
in
the

regulator
box

which

nonnally
does
not

give
trouble
or

require
attention

The
starter
motor
is
a

brush

type
series
wound
motor

in

which

positive
meshing
of
the

pinion
and

ring

gear
teeth
are

secured

by
means
of
an

overrunning
clutch

BATTERY
Maintenance

The

battery
should
be
maintained
in
a
clean
and

dry

condition
at
all
times
or
a
current

leakage
may
occur

between

the
terminals
If

frequent
topping

up
is

required
it
is
an

indication
of

overcharging
or
deterioration
of
the

battery

When

refitting
the
cables
clean
them

thoroughly
and
coat

their

terminals
and
the
terminal

posts
with

petroleum
jelly

Check
the
level
of
the

electrolyte
in
the

battery
at

frequent

intervals
and

top
up
if

necessary
to

the
level
mark
on

the

battery
case
with
distilled
water
A

hydrometer
test
should
be

carried
out

to
determine
the
state

of

charge
of

the

battery
by

measuring
the

specific
gravity
of
the

electrolyte
It
should
be

pointed
out

that
the
addition
of

sulphuric
acid
will
not

normally

be

necessary
and
should

only
be
carried
out

by
an

expert
when

required

The

specific
gravity
of
the

electrolyte
should
be
ascertained

with
the

battery

fully
charged
at
an

electrolyte
temperature
of

200C
680F

The

specific
gravity
of
the

electrolyte
decreases
or
increases

by
0
0007
when
its

temperature
rises
or
falls

by
10C
1
80F

respectively

The

temperature
referred

to
is
that
of
the

electrolyte
and

not
the
ambient

temperature
to
correct
a

reading
for
an
air

temperature
it
will
be

necessary
to

add
0
0035
to
the

reading

for

every
50C
above
200C

Conversely
0
0035
must

be
deducted

for

every
SOC
below
200C
Test
each
cell

separately
and
draw

the

liquid
into
the

hydrometer
several
times
if
a
built
in

thermometer
type
is
used

The
correct

specific
gravity
readings
should
be
as
follows
ALTERNATOR

Assembly
and
Installation

HEAD
LAMPS

Replacing

HORN

INSTRUMENT
PANEL
Removal

WINDSCREEN
WIPERS

WINDSCREEN
WASHERS

IGNITION
SWITCH
AND
STEERING
LOCK

Cold
climates

Temperature
climates

Tropical
climates
Permissible

value

Over
1
22

Over
1
20

Over
1
18
Fully
charged
at
200C

680F

1
28

1

26

1
23

The

battery
should
be

recharged
if
a
low

specific
gravity

reading
is
indicated

Always
disconnect
both
terminals
of
the

battery
when

charging
and
clean
the
terminal

posts
with
a

soda

solution
Remove
the
vent

plugs
and

keep
the
electrolyte

temperature
below
450C
l130F
during
charging

Check
the

specific
gravity
after

charging
and
if
it
is
above

1
260
at

200C
680C
add
distilled
water

STARTER
MOTOR
Removal
and
Dismantling

As
previously
stated
the
starter
motor

is
brush

type
series

wound
motor
in
which
the

positive
meshing
of
the

pinion
and

ring
gear
teeth
are
secured

by
an

overrunning
clutch
The
over

running
clutch

employs
a
shift
lever
to
slide
the

pinion
into

mesh
with
the
flywheel
ring

gear
teeth
when
the
starter
is

operated

When
the
engine
starts
the

pL
lion
is

permitted
to
overrun

the
clutch
and
armature

but
is
held
in
mesh
until
the
shift
lever

is
released
An

exploded
view
of
the
starter

is
shown
in

Fig
M
2

To
remove
the
starter

motor

proceed
as
follows

Disconnect
the

battery
earth
cable

2
Disconnect
the
black
and

yellow
wire
from
the
solenoid

terminal
and
the
black
cable
from
the

battery
terminal

3
Remove
the
two
bolts

securing
the
starter
motor
to
the

clutch

housing
Pull
the
starter
motor

assembly
forwards

and
withdraw

it
from
the
v
hicle

To
dismantle
the
starter

motor
ftrst
remove
the
brush

cover
and
lift
out

the
brushes
as
shown
in

Fig
M
3

Loosen
the
nut

securing
the

connecting
plate
to

the

solenoid
M
terminal
Remove
the
solenoid

retaining
screws

take
out

the
cotter

pin
and
withdraw

the
shift
lever

pin
Remove

the
solenoid

assembly
as
shown
in

Fig
M
4

Remove
the
two

through
bolts

and
rear
cover

assembly

then
remove

the
yoke
assembly
by
lightly
tapping
it
with
a

wooden
mallet

Fig
M
S
Withdraw
the
armature
and
shift

lever

Fig
M
6
Remove
the
pinion

stopper
from
the

armature
shaft

by
removing
the

stopper
washer
pushing
the

109