STEERING
GEAR
Inspection
and
Adjustment
Thoroughly
clean
all
parts
and
examine
them
for
signs
of
wear
or
damage
Replace
any
comIK
nent
found
to
be
un
satisfactory
It
is
advisable
to
renew
the
assemblies
if
the
steering
column
or
ball
nut
assembly
is
defective
as
the
adjustment
procedures
required
to
overhaul
the
units
are
rather
involved
The
dismantling
and
adjustment
procedures
for
the
ball
nut
assembly
can
be
carried
out
in
the
following
manner
if
it
is
decided
that
overhaul
procedures
are
to
be
carried
out
Ball
nut
Remove
the
ball
guide
tube
clamp
withdraw
the
guide
tubes
from
the
ball
nut
and
collect
the
steel
balls
Turn
the
nut
upside
down
and
rotate
the
steering
column
backwards
and
forwards
until
all
36
steel
balls
have
dropped
out
of
the
ball
nut
Pull
the
ball
nut
from
the
column
Inspect
the
ball
guide
tubes
and
make
sure
that
they
are
not
damaged
Pay
particular
attention
to
the
ends
of
the
tubes
that
pick
up
the
balls
from
the
helical
path
Renew
the
tubes
if
they
are
unsatisfactory
Check
the
steel
balls
and
the
ball
nut
for
wear
and
replace
the
complete
unit
if
necessary
Assemble
the
ball
nut
on
the
worm
with
the
ball
guide
holes
upwards
Drop
18
balls
into
each
of
the
two
holes
on
the
same
side
of
the
ball
nut
until
all
36
balls
are
installed
The
column
should
be
gradually
turned
away
from
the
hole
being
filled
and
if
the
balls
are
stopped
by
the
end
of
the
column
hold
down
those
already
installed
with
a
clean
rod
or
punch
while
turning
the
column
several
times
in
the
reverse
direction
The
filling
of
the
circuit
can
then
be
continued
but
it
may
be
necessary
to
turn
the
column
backwards
and
forwards
holding
the
balls
down
first
in
one
hole
and
then
the
other
to
close
the
spaces
and
completely
fill
the
circuit
Place
the
remaining
22
balls
in
the
ball
guide
halves
11
balls
for
each
half
Fit
the
other
half
of
the
guide
tube
to
each
f11led
half
hold
the
two
halves
together
a
ld
plug
each
open
end
with
vaseline
to
prevent
the
balls
falling
out
Push
the
guide
tubes
into
the
ball
nut
guide
holes
and
assemble
the
guide
tube
clamp
Inspection
Oteck
the
axial
clearance
between
the
ball
nut
and
the
balls
If
the
clearance
exceeds
0
08
mrn
0
003
in
the
complete
unit
must
be
replaced
Inspect
the
gear
teeth
of
the
sector
shaft
for
wear
or
damage
Replace
any
worn
or
imperfect
bearings
Examine
the
steering
column
shaft
for
straightness
and
check
that
the
maximum
deflection
does
not
exceed
0
2mm
0
008
in
at
point
C
in
Fig
K
9
when
the
shaft
is
supported
at
points
A
and
B
Check
the
sector
shaft
and
steering
column
shaft
serrations
for
wear
Renew
the
parts
as
necessary
STEERING
GEAR
Assembly
and
Adjustment
Grease
the
lip
of
the
oil
seal
and
press
it
into
the
housing
Insert
the
column
assembly
into
the
column
jacket
and
fit
the
worm
bearing
shims
to
the
gear
housing
Install
the
flange
securing
bolts
and
tighten
them
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
8
2
5
kgm
13
18lb
ft
If
a
new
column
bearing
assembly
is
fitted
it
must
be
filled
with
bearing
grease
and
cemented
to
the
column
The
preload
of
the
worm
bearing
can
be
adjusted
by
altering
the
thickness
of
the
worm
bearing
shim
Four
shim
thicknesses
are
available
in
sizes
of
0
76
0
254
0
127
0
050mm
0
0300
0
100
0
005
in
0
002
in
This
adjustment
check
is
carried
out
without
the
sector
shaft
fitted
and
with
the
worm
bearings
oiled
Install
the
steering
wheel
as
shown
in
Fig
K
9
use
a
spring
balance
as
indicated
to
check
that
the
force
required
to
turn
the
wheel
is
between
4
0
8
0
kg
cm
56
l120z
inch
Select
a
suitable
shim
from
the
sizes
given
Assemble
the
selector
shaft
adjuster
with
a
shim
into
the
sector
shaft
Measure
the
end
clearance
of
the
adjuster
with
a
feeler
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
K
1
O
The
correct
clearance
is
0
01
0
03mm
0
0004
O
0012in
and
can
be
adjusted
by
varying
the
thickness
of
shim
Four
thicknesses
of
shim
are
available
as
follows
1
57
mm
0
0618
in
1
55
mm
0
0610
in
1
52
mm
0
0598
in
1
50
mm
0
0591
in
To
assemble
the
sector
shaft
into
the
gear
housing
rotate
the
column
by
hand
until
the
ball
nut
is
at
the
central
position
of
its
travel
so
that
the
centre
tooth
of
the
sector
shaft
enters
the
centre
tooth
space
of
the
ball
nut
Fit
a
new
gasket
and
push
the
sector
shaft
cover
and
sector
shaft
into
place
Ensure
that
a
certain
amount
of
play
is
present
between
the
rack
and
sector
teeth
before
tightening
the
cover
bolts
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
5
2
5
kgm
10
9
18
llb
ft
Temporarily
lock
the
adjusting
screw
with
the
locknut
Move
the
sector
shaft
several
times
from
the
pitman
arm
side
to
make
sure
that
it
turns
smoothly
Connect
the
pitman
arm
to
the
sector
shaft
taking
care
that
the
alignment
marks
on
the
arm
and
shaft
coincide
Adjust
the
backlash
with
the
steering
in
the
central
position
using
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
K
II
Turn
the
adjusting
screw
with
a
screwdriver
until
the
amount
of
free
movement
at
the
top
of
the
pitman
arm
is
within
O
lmm
0
0039
in
at
a
radius
of
127
mm
5
0
in
Lock
the
adjusting
screw
with
the
locknut
Fig
K
12
and
recheck
the
free
move
ment
Fill
the
steering
gear
housing
with
the
correct
amount
of
recommended
lubricant
Refit
the
steering
gear
to
the
vehicle
as
previously
described
Make
sure
that
the
steering
wheel
is
correctly
aligned
and
that
93
the
system
operates
smoothly
COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING
The
collapsible
steering
column
is
designed
so
that
compression
occurs
when
the
vehicle
is
involved
in
a
head
on
collision
See
Fig
K
13
Two
forces
can
be
considered
when
a
collision
of
this
type
takes
place
These
being
the
primary
force
in
which
the
forward
motion
of
the
car
is
suddenly
halted
and
the
secondary
force
as
the
driver
continues
in
a
forward
direction
onto
the
steering
wheel
and
column
The
collapsible
column
is
designed
so
that
it
does
not
move
to
the
rear
i
e
into
the
driving
com
partment
when
the
primary
force
or
forward
motion
of
the
car
is
suddenly
halted
When
the
secondary
force
takes
place
as
the
driver
is
thrown
forward
the
column
jacket
gradually
collapses
and
partially
absorbs
the
amount
of
impact
The
collapsible
type
of
column
is
no
more
susceptible
to
damage
than
an
ordinary
column
when
it
is
installed
in
the
vehicle
however
when
a
collapsible
column
is
removed
it
must
be
carefully
handled
A
sharp
blow
on
the
end
of
the
shaft
or
gear
change
levers
dropping
or
leaning
on
the
assembly
can
cause
the
column
jacket
to
bend
particularly
at
the
bellows
part
which
absorbs
the
shock
The
steering
movement
is
transmitted
by
the
lower
shaft
and
upper
tube
The
lower
shaft
exterior
and
upper
tube
interior
are
tightly
fitted
together
with
four
plastic
pins
com
pletely
eliminating
any
gap
When
a
collision
occurs
the
plastic
pins
shear
and
the
lower
shaft
enters
the
upper
tube
this
action
will
cause
the
shaft
end
to
spread
and
the
lower
shaft
cannot
then
be
withdrawn
unless
an
extremely
high
load
is
applied
The
shaft
is
prevented
from
moving
towards
the
drivers
compartment
when
the
primary
force
takes
place
i
e
when
the
forward
motion
of
the
vehicle
is
suddenly
halted
by
the
three
stoppers
on
the
jacket
tube
The
steering
lock
collar
mounted
to
the
shaft
contacts
the
stoppers
and
prevents
a
rear
ward
movement
A
part
of
the
jacket
tube
is
specially
formed
to
act
as
an
energy
absorbing
part
of
the
collapsible
steering
The
upper
and
lower
guide
tubes
joined
with
polyacetal
resin
are
inserted
into
the
mesh
tube
so
that
energy
generated
by
a
collision
can
be
absorbed
as
smoothly
as
possible
with
a
low
load
The
steering
column
clamp
shown
in
Fig
K
14
is
secured
to
the
jacket
tube
and
body
by
bolts
with
two
aluminium
slidings
blocks
set
to
the
body
by
plastic
pins
An
impact
from
the
drivers
side
causes
the
plastic
pins
to
shear
and
leave
the
sliding
block
in
the
column
clamp
side
allowing
the
clamp
to
move
with
the
jacket
as
it
collapses
COLLAPSffiLE
STEERING
Removal
and
Inspection
Steering
Wheel
I
Disconnect
the
battery
earth
cable
2
Disconnect
the
horn
wiring
and
remove
the
horn
pad
3
Remove
the
steering
wheel
nut
using
the
special
puller
ST
27180000
Eig
K
15
Remove
the
column
shell
covers
Fig
K
16
and
the
turn
signal
switch
assembly
Column
shaft
4
Remove
the
cotter
pin
and
detach
the
shift
rod
Automatic
Transmission
Remove
the
bolt
securing
the
worm
shaft
and
coupling
Fig
K
17
5
Take
out
the
bolts
securing
the
column
tube
flange
to
the
dash
panel
and
the
bolts
securing
the
column
clamp
With
draw
the
steering
column
shaft
towards
the
car
interior
A
careful
check
should
be
made
to
ensure
that
the
assembly
is
not
damaged
in
any
way
Pull
out
the
lower
shaft
tap
the
column
clamp
towards
the
steering
wheel
end
and
remove
the
screws
securing
the
upper
and
lower
tubes
Separate
the
upper
and
lower
tubes
Remove
the
snap
ring
from
the
upper
end
of
the
column
pull
the
upper
jacket
down
and
separate
it
from
the
upper
jacket
tube
Take
care
not
to
damage
the
bearing
Remove
the
plain
washer
and
spring
from
the
upper
shaft
Check
the
column
bearings
for
damage
and
lack
of
smooth
ness
Apply
multi
purpose
grease
to
the
bearing
if
necessary
Inspect
the
jacket
tubes
for
signs
of
deformation
renew
the
tubes
if
necessary
Check
the
dimension
A
in
Fig
K
1B
to
make
SUfe
that
the
jacket
has
not
been
crushed
Check
the
dimension
B
Fig
K
14
COLLAPSffiLE
STEERING
Assembly
and
Installation
Assembly
is
a
reversal
of
the
dismantling
procedure
noting
the
following
points
Lubricate
the
column
bearing
the
spring
and
dust
seal
sliding
parts
Ensure
that
the
upper
shaft
steering
lock
hole
and
the
steering
lock
are
correctly
positioned
Fig
K
19
When
assembling
the
lower
shaft
take
care
to
coincide
the
notch
on
the
universal
joint
with
the
punched
mark
on
the
shaft
Coat
the
upper
and
lower
shaft
serrations
with
multi
purpose
grease
Set
the
steering
in
the
straight
ahead
position
and
fit
the
column
shaft
to
the
steering
gear
See
Fig
K
20
Insert
the
column
through
the
dash
board
and
install
it
to
the
gear
so
that
the
punch
mark
at
the
top
of
the
shaft
is
forced
upwards
Slide
the
universal
joint
to
the
steering
gear
and
temporarily
install
the
column
clamp
6
Fit
the
lower
cover
flange
7
and
tighten
the
column
clamp
bolts
Check
the
steering
wheel
alignment
with
the
wheels
in
the
straight
ahead
position
If
the
steering
wheel
and
steering
lock
are
misaligned
by
more
than
35
mm
I
4
in
from
the
vertical
position
femove
the
steering
wheel
and
re
centre
it
STEERING
LINKAGE
Removal
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
support
it
on
stands
2
Remove
the
cotterpins
and
castle
nuts
fastening
the
tie
rod
ball
joints
to
the
knuckle
arms
95
I
Fig
K
16
Removing
the
column
sheD
covers
inter
i
mj
rD
1
f
1
A
iJI1i
j
j
r
I
I
s
Ii
i
FIg
K
15
Removing
the
steering
wheel
Fig
K
l7
Removing
the
rubber
coupling
securing
bolt
1
bclttt
ube
2
Column
clamp
Fig
K
19
Steering
lock
installation
Fig
K
18
The
standard
dimension
between
coluDDl
clamp
and
lower
jacket
J
A
6
c
V
1
Rubbt
r
coupling
2
Steen
column
3
Worm
1
4
Dash
ptmd
5
ColUmrl
3hDf
6
Colli
clamp
7
Lowt
r
jacket
flangt
FIg
K
20
Installing
tbe
steering
column
assembly
96
f
ftb
Fig
K
21
The
outer
tie
rod
ball
joint
I
I
t
I
Fig
K
22
The
centre
tie
rod
ball
joint
BrakIng
System
DESCRIPTION
MASTER
CYLINDER
Removal
dismantling
and
Overhaul
BRAKE
LINES
Replacing
BRAKE
WARNING
LIGHT
SWITCH
FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE
Removal
inspection
and
Overhaul
REAR
DRUM
BRAKE
Removal
inspection
and
Overhaul
FRONT
DRUM
BRAKE
Adjusting
DESCRIPTION
The
vehicle
is
fitted
with
either
disc
brakes
or
two
leading
shoe
type
drum
brakes
for
the
front
wheels
and
leading
trailing
shoe
type
drum
brakes
for
the
rear
wheels
All
brakes
are
hydraulically
operated
from
the
brake
pedal
with
the
rear
brakes
additionally
operated
by
a
mechanical
handbrake
and
linkage
system
Either
a
single
or
a
tandem
master
cylinder
can
be
fitted
The
tandem
master
cylinder
provides
a
dual
braking
circuit
in
which
the
front
and
rear
brakes
are
separately
supplied
If
ODe
circuit
fails
the
other
circuit
will
still
operate
and
provide
a
reduced
but
efficient
braking
action
The
brake
pipes
are
double
wall
steel
tubes
and
are
galvanized
at
the
sections
beneath
the
vehicle
floor
to
prevent
corrosion
MASTER
CYLINDER
Removal
Either
a
tandem
or
single
master
cylinder
can
be
fitted
to
the
vehicle
Fig
L
I
shows
a
cross
sectional
view
through
the
tandem
master
cylinder
and
Fig
L
2
a
cross
sectional
view
through
the
single
master
cylinder
The
removal
and
dismantling
procedures
are
similar
for
both
types
and
are
carried
out
in
the
following
manner
1
Remove
the
clevis
pin
and
separate
the
brake
pedal
from
the
master
cylinder
push
rod
2
Disconnect
the
brake
tubes
from
the
master
cylinder
3
Remove
the
master
cylinder
mounting
bolts
withdraw
the
shims
and
take
out
the
master
cylinder
assembly
MASfER
CYLINDER
Dismantling
and
Overhaul
Drain
the
brake
fluid
from
the
cylinder
and
remove
the
stopper
bolt
Remove
the
dust
cover
the
snap
ring
the
stopper
ring
and
the
pusbrod
assembly
Take
out
the
primary
piston
and
secondary
piston
assemblies
and
the
piston
spring
Remove
the
valve
cap
and
take
out
the
valve
assembly
Oean
all
the
components
with
brake
fluid
and
check
them
for
wear
or
damage
Make
sure
that
the
cylinder
bore
and
piston
are
not
damaged
or
unevenly
worn
The
clearance
between
cylinder
and
piston
must
not
exceed
0
15mm
0
006
in
REAR
DRUM
BRAKE
Adjusting
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction
pads
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Removal
and
Dismantling
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Assembly
and
Installation
HANDBRAKE
Removal
and
Installation
BLEEDING
THE
HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM
BRAKE
PEDAL
ADJUSTMENT
Check
the
return
springs
for
damage
or
loss
of
tension
Replace
any
part
which
is
in
an
unsatisfactory
condition
MASfER
CYLINDER
Assembly
and
Installation
Assembly
of
the
master
cylinder
is
a
reversal
of
the
dismantling
procedure
noting
the
following
points
Wet
the
cylinder
bore
and
piston
etc
with
brake
fluid
before
assembling
Care
must
be
taken
to
prevent
dust
and
foreign
matter
entering
the
cylinder
and
reservoir
Ensure
that
cups
and
soals
are
not
damaged
when
locating
them
After
the
master
cylinder
is
reinstalled
the
system
must
be
bled
and
the
pedal
height
adjusted
as
described
under
the
appropriate
headings
BRAKE
LINES
Replacing
The
layout
of
the
metal
brake
pipes
and
flexible
hoses
is
shown
in
Fig
L
3
The
brake
pipes
can
be
removed
by
taking
off
the
flare
nuts
at
both
ends
of
the
pipe
and
removing
the
clips
securing
the
pipe
to
the
body
Similarly
the
brake
hoses
can
be
removed
by
taking
off
the
flare
nuts
Thoroughly
clean
the
pipe
or
hose
after
removing
from
the
vehicle
and
check
for
collapsing
cracking
or
rusting
of
the
pipe
and
for
signs
of
expansion
and
weakening
of
the
hose
Any
pipe
or
hose
which
is
not
in
a
satisfactory
condition
must
be
renewed
Remove
any
dust
from
the
brake
clip
and
replace
the
clip
if
the
vinyl
coating
is
torn
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Make
sure
that
the
brake
pipes
cannot
vibrate
against
any
part
of
the
vehicle
and
the
brake
hoses
are
not
twisted
and
rubbing
against
the
tyres
or
suspension
units
If
the
brake
hose
is
disconnected
from
the
three
way
connector
on
the
rear
axle
housing
it
will
be
necessary
to
fit
a
new
copper
sealing
washer
Do
not
overtighten
the
installation
flare
nuts
the
correct
tightening
torques
are
as
follows
Three
way
connector
master
cylinder
and
brake
hoses
1
5
1
8
kgm
II
13Ib
ft
Fill
the
master
cylinder
with
recommended
fluid
and
bleed
the
system
as
described
under
the
appropriate
heading
Make
sure
that
fluid
is
not
leaking
from
any
part
of
the
system
by
fully
depressing
the
brake
pedal
for
several
seconds
Check
the
pipes
and
connections
and
replace
any
defective
part
99
brake
shoe
is
in
contact
with
the
drum
The
adjuster
must
be
turned
from
the
rear
of
the
backplate
and
the
drum
turned
by
hand
When
the
shoe
contacts
the
drum
turn
the
adjuster
in
the
opposite
direction
until
the
shoe
is
just
clear
and
the
drum
can
be
rotated
freely
by
hand
Depress
the
brake
pedal
and
make
sure
that
the
brakes
operate
correctly
The
adjusters
must
be
released
slightly
if
the
brake
shoe
binds
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction
pads
Fig
L
14
The
disc
brakes
are
self
adjusting
but
the
friction
pads
should
be
checked
for
wear
every
5
000
km
3
000
miles
and
replaced
if
the
thickness
of
the
friction
lining
on
any
pad
is
less
than
1
0mm
0
004
in
In
effect
this
means
that
renewal
is
necessary
when
the
total
thickness
of
pad
and
lining
is
less
than
8
4mm
0
24
in
To
replace
the
friction
pads
proceed
as
follows
Siphon
out
some
of
the
fluid
in
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
remove
the
road
wheel
Remove
the
anti
rattle
clip
from
the
calliper
plate
Fig
L
lS
Unhook
the
hanger
spring
and
withdraw
the
brake
pads
and
shims
Fig
L
17
It
should
be
noted
that
the
friction
pads
must
be
replaced
as
a
set
and
renewed
at
both
sides
of
the
vehicle
otherwise
the
braking
action
will
be
uneven
Oean
the
calliper
and
pad
at
their
installation
positions
Press
the
pistons
into
the
calliper
bores
so
that
the
new
friction
Pads
can
be
installed
The
pistons
can
be
installed
by
applying
light
pressure
as
shown
in
Fig
L
16
but
care
must
be
taken
to
avoid
pushing
them
too
far
or
the
groove
of
the
piston
will
damage
the
seal
If
the
pistons
are
pushed
down
excessively
it
will
be
necessary
to
dismantle
the
calliper
as
described
under
the
appropriate
heading
Assemble
the
anti
squeal
shims
to
the
friction
pads
with
the
arrow
mark
on
the
shims
pointing
in
the
direction
of
forward
disc
rotation
Refit
the
pads
and
retaining
pins
and
assemble
the
coil
spring
to
the
retaining
pin
furthest
away
from
the
air
bleed
screw
After
installing
the
new
pads
and
shims
depress
the
brake
pedal
several
times
to
reposition
the
pistons
in
the
calliper
O1eck
the
fluid
level
in
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
and
refill
to
the
correct
level
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Removal
and
Dismantling
1
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
remove
the
road
wheel
and
take
out
the
friction
pads
2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
brake
tube
and
plug
the
opened
end
to
prevent
the
loss
of
fluid
3
Remove
the
bolts
securing
the
brake
calliper
to
the
knuckle
flange
and
remove
the
calliper
assembly
Fig
L
IS
4
Remove
the
hub
nut
and
withdraw
the
hub
and
disc
To
dismantle
the
calliper
remove
the
anti
rattle
clip
and
withdraw
the
brake
pads
Remove
the
tension
springs
and
pull
the
cylinder
out
of
the
calliper
Blow
out
the
piston
with
com
pressed
air
applied
at
the
brake
hose
connection
Oean
the
components
in
brake
fluid
and
examine
them
for
signs
of
wear
or
damage
The
cylinder
walls
can
be
carefully
polished
with
fine
emery
cloth
if
they
are
rusted
or
contaminated
If
the
parts
are
excessively
corroded
they
should
be
renewed
Replace
the
pistons
if
they
are
unevenly
worn
damaged
or
rusted
The
sliding
surface
of
the
piston
is
plated
and
no
attempt
should
be
made
to
use
emery
cloth
or
similar
abrasives
for
cleaning
purposes
Check
the
thickness
of
the
friction
pads
as
previously
described
and
replace
them
if
necessary
Renew
the
piston
seals
and
the
dust
covers
O1eck
the
brake
disc
for
scoring
and
out
of
round
The
standard
disc
thickness
is
10
Omm
0
0394
in
and
must
not
be
reground
below
8
4mm
0
3307
in
Check
the
disc
run
out
with
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
L
19
Position
the
gauge
near
the
outer
diameter
and
check
that
the
run
out
does
not
exceed
0
06mm
0
0024
in
FRONT
BRAKE
DISC
Assembly
and
Installation
Rinse
the
cylinder
bore
with
brake
fluid
and
fit
the
piston
seal
into
the
cylinder
groove
Fig
L
20
Fit
the
wiper
seal
and
lightly
grease
the
bore
of
the
cylinder
Clean
the
brake
disc
and
fit
it
to
the
hub
Install
the
hub
to
the
knuckle
spindle
Carefully
insert
the
piston
into
the
cylinder
until
the
face
of
the
piston
is
almost
flush
with
the
wiper
seal
retainer
The
relieved
part
of
the
piston
should
face
the
piston
pin
Fit
the
cylinder
to
the
calliper
plate
and
secure
in
position
with
the
two
torsion
springs
Assemble
the
hold
down
pin
the
spring
washer
and
the
nut
to
the
support
bracket
Secure
the
nut
with
a
cotter
pin
Assemble
the
calliper
to
the
mounting
bracket
using
the
pivot
pin
washer
spring
washer
and
nut
Tighten
the
nut
and
secure
with
a
cotter
pin
Hook
the
hold
down
bracket
to
the
top
of
the
mounting
bracket
and
turn
the
calliper
plate
to
make
sure
that
it
can
slide
smoothly
Fit
the
calliper
assembly
to
the
knuckle
flange
Fit
a
shim
to
the
inner
pad
and
insert
the
pad
Draw
the
calliper
towards
the
chassis
and
insert
the
lower
cuts
on
the
pad
into
the
mounting
bracket
and
push
the
pad
in
until
it
contacts
the
piston
Move
the
calliper
away
from
the
chassis
and
insert
the
upper
cuts
Centre
the
indentation
of
the
outer
pad
in
the
calliper
plate
Fit
the
anti
rattle
clip
Fig
L
14
103
HAND
BRAKE
Removal
The
mechanical
handbrake
linkages
are
shown
in
Figs
L
21
1
22
and
1
23
1400
and
1600cc
models
Front
cable
Release
the
hand
brake
and
disconnect
the
front
cable
by
removing
the
clevis
pin
from
the
lever
Unscrew
the
adjusting
nut
from
the
rear
of
the
front
cable
Fig
L
24
Remove
the
cable
from
the
hand
brake
lever
Remove
the
clamp
holding
the
cable
to
the
under
body
Pull
out
the
lock
plate
holding
the
front
cable
to
the
retainer
and
completely
withdraw
the
cable
Withdraw
the
cable
by
unfastening
the
outer
casing
which
is
pressed
into
the
handbrake
control
bracket
Handbrake
lever
Fig
1
25
Remove
the
clevis
pin
connecting
the
lever
yoke
and
lever
Remove
the
clevis
pin
connecting
the
control
guide
and
the
control
bracket
Lift
out
the
handbrake
assembly
Rear
cable
Saloons
Remove
the
adjusting
nut
from
the
adjuster
Fig
L
26
and
disconnect
the
left
hand
rear
cable
from
the
handbrake
adjuster
Pull
out
the
lock
plates
and
remove
the
clevis
pin
connecting
the
cables
to
the
levers
of
the
rear
wheel
cylinders
Rear
cable
Estate
car
and
rigid
axle
saloon
Remove
the
clevis
pin
from
both
ends
of
the
rear
cable
Remove
the
connecting
rods
by
extracting
the
puU
off
springs
and
clevis
pins
1800cc
models
Handbrake
lever
Disconnect
the
terminal
from
the
hand
brake
warning
switch
Remove
the
nuts
securing
the
control
bracket
to
the
dashboard
Pull
out
the
lock
pin
and
cotter
pin
and
withdraw
the
handbrake
lever
assembly
Front
cable
Remove
the
return
spring
and
loosen
the
adjuster
10cknuL
Detach
the
front
cable
from
the
handbrake
lever
Remove
the
nuts
securing
the
cable
to
the
dashboard
Fig
L
27
and
with
draw
the
cable
towards
the
engine
Rear
cable
Saloon
Disconnect
the
cable
at
the
adjuster
and
detach
the
return
spring
from
the
centre
lever
See
Fig
L
28
Remove
the
cable
lock
plates
from
the
rear
suspension
Remove
the
clevis
pin
attaching
the
cable
at
the
rear
wheel
cylinder
Rear
cable
Estate
car
and
Van
Unfasten
the
pull
spring
and
remove
the
clevis
pins
at
the
balance
lever
and
wheel
sides
Fig
L
29
Detach
the
connecting
rod
Remove
the
nut
securing
the
connecting
rod
balance
lever
and
the
lever
from
the
rear
axle
housing
HANDBRAKE
Installation
Check
the
cables
for
signs
of
deterioration
fraying
etc
Examine
the
handbrake
lever
and
ratchet
for
wear
and
renew
as
necessry
Check
the
springs
for
evidence
of
weakness
and
make
sure
that
the
balance
lever
and
bushes
are
satisfactory
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Make
sure
that
all
sliding
parts
are
greased
Adjust
the
hand
brake
in
the
following
manner
Release
the
hand
brake
and
adjust
the
rear
brake
shoes
as
previously
described
The
1400
and
1600cc
Saloon
handbrake
is
adjusted
to
give
a
lever
stroke
of
85
95mm
3
34
3
74
in
by
setting
the
adjusting
nuts
Fig
L
24
The
lever
stroke
on
the
estate
car
should
be
adjusted
to
50
75mm
2
0
3
0
in
by
turning
the
adjuster
shown
in
Fig
L
30
Adjust
the
1800cc
models
to
give
a
handbrake
lever
stroke
of
90
100
mm
3
5
3
9in
by
turning
the
adjuster
2
in
Fig
L
28
Retighten
the
locknut
after
adjusting
BLEEDING
THE
HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM
The
hydraulic
system
must
be
bled
if
the
circuit
has
been
opened
at
any
point
or
if
the
level
of
the
fluid
in
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
has
fallen
too
low
allowing
air
to
enter
the
system
Bleeding
is
usually
a
two
man
operation
as
assistance
will
be
required
to
work
the
brake
pedal
The
master
cylinder
reservoir
must
be
topped
up
constantly
throughout
the
operation
whilst
a
check
is
carried
out
on
the
fluid
expelled
Bleeding
should
be
carried
out
at
the
master
cylinder
nrst
then
from
the
brake
furthest
away
from
the
master
cylinder
and
working
round
finally
to
the
brake
nearest
to
the
master
cylinder
Bleeding
should
therefore
be
carried
out
in
the
follow
ing
order
Rear
left
wheel
rear
right
wheel
front
left
wheel
front
right
wheel
Oean
the
area
round
the
master
cylinder
cover
take
off
the
cover
and
top
up
the
reservoir
if
necessary
Clean
the
rele
vant
air
bleed
screw
and
take
off
the
cap
Attach
a
suitable
hose
to
the
bleed
screw
and
place
the
free
end
of
the
hose
in
a
glass
jar
containing
brake
fluid
Open
the
bleed
screw
and
depress
the
brake
pedal
to
allow
the
fluid
to
enter
the
glass
container
Tighten
the
bleed
screw
when
the
pedal
is
fully
depressed
and
allow
the
pedal
to
return
Repeat
the
procedure
until
the
fluid
is
completely
free
from
air
bubbles
then
carry
out
the
same
operation
on
the
other
three
wheels
Top
up
the
fluid
in
the
reservoir
to
the
correct
level
but
do
not
re
use
the
fluid
previously
withdrawn
from
the
system
105
BRAKE
PEDAL
ADJUSTMENT
The
brake
pedal
height
and
free
play
can
be
adjusted
in
the
following
manner
1400
and
1600
CC
models
Adjust
the
length
of
the
master
cylinder
push
rod
until
the
height
of
the
pedal
pad
is
187
mm
7
36
in
for
manual
gear
boxes
and
202
mm
7
95in
for
automatic
transmission
vehicles
without
brake
light
switch
Fig
L
31
Retighten
the
locknut
Screw
in
the
brake
light
switch
until
the
screwed
part
of
the
switch
is
against
the
front
of
the
stopper
bracket
then
tighten
the
locknut
Screw
in
the
stopper
bolt
until
the
moveable
part
of
the
switch
is
completely
pushed
in
by
the
pedal
and
tighten
the
locknut
in
this
position
Make
sure
that
the
lamp
is
00
when
the
pedal
is
pushed
down
by
1
5mm
0
06
in
1800cc
models
Adjust
the
bolt
of
the
brake
lamp
switch
until
its
end
face
is
flush
with
the
locknut
then
tighten
the
locknut
securely
See
Fig
L
32
Adjust
the
pedal
stopper
until
the
pedal
pad
is
positioned
at
a
height
of
185
mrn
7
28
in
from
the
floor
then
tighten
the
stopper
with
the
locknut
Adjust
the
length
of
the
master
cylinder
push
rod
until
a
pedal
free
play
of
I
5mm
0
04
D
2in
is
obtained
then
retighten
the
locknut
Depress
the
brake
pedal
several
times
to
make
sure
that
a
full
travel
of
145mm
5
7
in
is
available
and
that
the
pedal
moves
freely
and
without
noise
Technical
Data
BRAKE
PEDAL
Pedal
height
1400
and
1600cc
models
I
87mm
7
362in
manual
gearbox
202mm
7
953in
auto
matic
185mm
7
28in
145mm
5
71
in
1800cc
models
Full
stroke
MASTER
CYUNDER
Inner
diameter
Piston
running
clearance
19
05mm
0
75
in
0
15mm
0
006
in
WHEEL
BRAKE
CYLINDERS
Inner
diameter
1400
and
1600cc
Front
drum
Front
disc
Rear
with
front
drum
Rear
with
front
disc
22
22mm
7
8in
50
8mm
2
0
in
22
22mm
7
8in
20
64mm
13
16
in
Inner
diameter
I
BOOcc
Front
drum
20
6mm
13
16in
Front
disc
Rear
50
8mm
2
0in
22
2mm
7
8
in
BRAKE
DRUM
AND
BRAKE
DISC
Drum
inner
diameter
Drum
outer
diameter
Out
of
round
maximum
Repair
limit
of
drum
Maximum
disc
run
out
Repair
limit
of
disc
228
6mm
9
0in
232mm
9
13in
0
05mm
0
002
in
230mm
9
055
in
0
06mm
0
0024
in
8
4mm
0
331
in
BRAKE
UNINGS
Drum
brakes
Width
x
thickness
x
length
40
x
4
5
x
219
5mm
1
575
x
1
772
x
8
642in
Disc
brakes
39
7
x
9
x
86mm
1
563
x
0
354
x
3
386in
Total
braking
area
Front
drum
brake
Front
disc
brake
Rear
351
sq
cn
54
4
sq
in
114
2
sq
cm
17
7
sq
in
351
sq
cm
54
4
sq
in
107
ElectrIcal
EquIpment
DESCRIPTION
BATTERY
Maintenance
STARTER
MOTOR
Removal
and
Dismantling
STARTER
MOTOR
Testing
STARTER
MOTOR
Assembly
and
Installation
ALTERNATOR
Removal
Dismantling
and
Inspection
DESCRIPTION
A
12
volt
negative
earth
electrical
system
is
used
in
which
the
battery
is
charged
by
an
alternator
In
the
alternator
a
magnetic
field
is
produced
by
the
rotor
which
consists
of
the
alternator
shaft
field
coil
p
le
pieces
and
slip
rings
Output
current
is
generated
in
the
armature
coils
located
in
the
stator
Six
silicon
diodes
are
incorporated
in
the
alternator
caSing
to
rectify
the
alternating
current
supply
A
voltage
regulator
and
pilot
lamp
relay
are
built
in
the
regulator
box
which
nonnally
does
not
give
trouble
or
require
attention
The
starter
motor
is
a
brush
type
series
wound
motor
in
which
positive
meshing
of
the
pinion
and
ring
gear
teeth
are
secured
by
means
of
an
overrunning
clutch
BATTERY
Maintenance
The
battery
should
be
maintained
in
a
clean
and
dry
condition
at
all
times
or
a
current
leakage
may
occur
between
the
terminals
If
frequent
topping
up
is
required
it
is
an
indication
of
overcharging
or
deterioration
of
the
battery
When
refitting
the
cables
clean
them
thoroughly
and
coat
their
terminals
and
the
terminal
posts
with
petroleum
jelly
Check
the
level
of
the
electrolyte
in
the
battery
at
frequent
intervals
and
top
up
if
necessary
to
the
level
mark
on
the
battery
case
with
distilled
water
A
hydrometer
test
should
be
carried
out
to
determine
the
state
of
charge
of
the
battery
by
measuring
the
specific
gravity
of
the
electrolyte
It
should
be
pointed
out
that
the
addition
of
sulphuric
acid
will
not
normally
be
necessary
and
should
only
be
carried
out
by
an
expert
when
required
The
specific
gravity
of
the
electrolyte
should
be
ascertained
with
the
battery
fully
charged
at
an
electrolyte
temperature
of
200C
680F
The
specific
gravity
of
the
electrolyte
decreases
or
increases
by
0
0007
when
its
temperature
rises
or
falls
by
10C
1
80F
respectively
The
temperature
referred
to
is
that
of
the
electrolyte
and
not
the
ambient
temperature
to
correct
a
reading
for
an
air
temperature
it
will
be
necessary
to
add
0
0035
to
the
reading
for
every
50C
above
200C
Conversely
0
0035
must
be
deducted
for
every
SOC
below
200C
Test
each
cell
separately
and
draw
the
liquid
into
the
hydrometer
several
times
if
a
built
in
thermometer
type
is
used
The
correct
specific
gravity
readings
should
be
as
follows
ALTERNATOR
Assembly
and
Installation
HEAD
LAMPS
Replacing
HORN
INSTRUMENT
PANEL
Removal
WINDSCREEN
WIPERS
WINDSCREEN
WASHERS
IGNITION
SWITCH
AND
STEERING
LOCK
Cold
climates
Temperature
climates
Tropical
climates
Permissible
value
Over
1
22
Over
1
20
Over
1
18
Fully
charged
at
200C
680F
1
28
1
26
1
23
The
battery
should
be
recharged
if
a
low
specific
gravity
reading
is
indicated
Always
disconnect
both
terminals
of
the
battery
when
charging
and
clean
the
terminal
posts
with
a
soda
solution
Remove
the
vent
plugs
and
keep
the
electrolyte
temperature
below
450C
l130F
during
charging
Check
the
specific
gravity
after
charging
and
if
it
is
above
1
260
at
200C
680C
add
distilled
water
STARTER
MOTOR
Removal
and
Dismantling
As
previously
stated
the
starter
motor
is
brush
type
series
wound
motor
in
which
the
positive
meshing
of
the
pinion
and
ring
gear
teeth
are
secured
by
an
overrunning
clutch
The
over
running
clutch
employs
a
shift
lever
to
slide
the
pinion
into
mesh
with
the
flywheel
ring
gear
teeth
when
the
starter
is
operated
When
the
engine
starts
the
pL
lion
is
permitted
to
overrun
the
clutch
and
armature
but
is
held
in
mesh
until
the
shift
lever
is
released
An
exploded
view
of
the
starter
is
shown
in
Fig
M
2
To
remove
the
starter
motor
proceed
as
follows
Disconnect
the
battery
earth
cable
2
Disconnect
the
black
and
yellow
wire
from
the
solenoid
terminal
and
the
black
cable
from
the
battery
terminal
3
Remove
the
two
bolts
securing
the
starter
motor
to
the
clutch
housing
Pull
the
starter
motor
assembly
forwards
and
withdraw
it
from
the
v
hicle
To
dismantle
the
starter
motor
ftrst
remove
the
brush
cover
and
lift
out
the
brushes
as
shown
in
Fig
M
3
Loosen
the
nut
securing
the
connecting
plate
to
the
solenoid
M
terminal
Remove
the
solenoid
retaining
screws
take
out
the
cotter
pin
and
withdraw
the
shift
lever
pin
Remove
the
solenoid
assembly
as
shown
in
Fig
M
4
Remove
the
two
through
bolts
and
rear
cover
assembly
then
remove
the
yoke
assembly
by
lightly
tapping
it
with
a
wooden
mallet
Fig
M
S
Withdraw
the
armature
and
shift
lever
Fig
M
6
Remove
the
pinion
stopper
from
the
armature
shaft
by
removing
the
stopper
washer
pushing
the
109