1969 DATSUN 610 lock

Connect
the
fuel
line
from
the
float

chamber
to
the
nozzle

nipple
and

tighten
the

retaining
clip
Pull
out

the
choke
lever

and

place
the

connecting
plaie
betw
n
the
washer
and
sleeve

collar
Screw
the

plate
to
the

nozzle
head
and
check
that
the

collar
is
installed
in
the
hole
in

the

plate
by
mo

ing
the
choke

lever
as

necessary

Recheck
the

piston
to
make

sure
that
it
falls

freely
without

binding

SU
TWIN
CARBURETTOR

Centering
the

jet

Remove
the

damper
oil

cap
nut

and
gradually
raise
the

lifter

pin
4
in

Fig
D
17

Continue
to
raise
the
lifter

pin
until
the
head
of
the

pin

raises
the

piston
by
approximately
8
mm
0
31
in
When
the

lifter

pin
is
released
the

piston
should

drop
freely
and
strike

the
venturi
with
a

light
metallic
click
If

the

pi
ston
does
not

fall

freely
it
will
be

necessary
to
dismantle
the

carburettor
in

the
manner

previously
described

SU

TWIN
CARBURETTOR

FLOAT
LEVEL

Inspection
and

Adjustment

The
fuel
level
in
the
float
chamber
can

be
checked

using

the

special

gauge
ST
19200000
Remove
the
float
chamber

drain

plug
and
install
the

special

gauge
as
shown
in

Fig
D
20

Start
the

engine
and
allow
it
to
run
at

idling
speed
The

fuel
level
is
conect
if
it
is

indicated
on

the

glass
tu

be
at
a

distance
of
22
24
mm
0
866
0
945
in
below
the

top
of
the

float
chamber

The
level
of
the
fuel
can

be
corrected
if

necessary
by

adjusting
the
float
level
in
the

following
manner
Take
out
the
float
chamber
coveT

securing
screws
and

lift
off
the
cover
and
attached
float

lever
Hold
the
cover
so
that

the
float
lev
r
is

facing
upwards
Lift
the
float
lever
and
then

lower
it
until
the
float
lever
seat

just
contacts

the
valve
stem

The
dimension
uH
in

Fig
D
1
should
be
11
12
mm
0
43

0
47
in

and
can

be
corrected

by
bending
the
float
lever
at
the

point
indicated

SU
TWIN
CARBURETTOR

Starting
interlock
valve

opening
adjustment

To

adjust
the
starting
interlock

opening
the

connecting

rod
4
in

Fig
D
22
1
must
be
bent

using
a
suitable

pair
of

pliers
The
throttle

opening
can

be
increased

by
lengthening

the

connecting
rod
or
reduced

by
shortening
the
rod

The
throttle

opening
is
correctly

adjusted
when
the

clearance
8

between
the
throttle
valve
and
throttle
chamber

is
set
to
0
6
mm
0
023
in
with
the
choke
lever
half

completely

out

HYDRAULIC
DAMPER

The

damper
oil

should
be
checked

approximately
every

5000
km
3000
miles
To
check
the
oil
level
remove
the
oil

cap
nut
as
shown

in

Fig
D
23
and
check
the
level
of
oil

against

the
two

grooves
on
the

plunger
rod

Top

up
with
SAE
20

engine
oil
if

the
oil
level
is
below
the
lower
of
the
two

grooves

Take
care

not
to
bend
the

plunger
rod
when

removing
and

replacing
the
oil

cap
nut

and
make
sure
that
the
nut
is

sufficiently

tightened
by
hand

TechnIcal
Data

Engine
Model
Ll4

I400cc

Primary
Secondary

28mm
32mm

21x7mrn
28xlOmm

96

165

60
60

I
Omm

220
100

1
6
Outlet
diameter

Venturi
diameter

Main

jet

Main
air
bleed

1
st

slow
air
bleed

2nd
slow
air
bleed

Economizer

Power

jet

Float

level

Fuel

pressure

Main
nozzle
55

22mm

0
24

kg

sq
cm
3
41b

sq
in

2
2mm

2
Smm

SU
Twin
Carburettors

Type

Bore
diameter

Piston
lift

Jet
needle

Nozzle

jet
diameter

Suction

spring
IUL
38
W6

38mm

1
4961
in

29mm

1417
in

M
76

2
34
mm

0
0921
in

No
23

Float
needle
valve

inner
diameter

Float

level
1
5mm
0

059
in

23mm
0
9055
in

42
Ll6
1600cc

Primary

Secondary

28mm
32mm

22x7mm

29xlOmm

102
165

60

60

1
0mm

180
100

1
6
Ll8

l80Occ

Primary
Secondary

30mm

34mm

23x14x7mm
30xlOmm

102
170

60
60

I
Omm

210
100

1
6

55

22mm
55

22m

2
3mm
2
5mm
2
3mm
2
8mm

Throttle

clearance
at
full

throttle

Position
at
full
throttle
0
6mm
0
0236
in

6
50

FUEL
PUMP

Type

Delivery
amount
Mechanical

1000cc
minute
at
1000

r

p
m

0
18
0
24

kg

sq
cm

2
5
3
41b

sq
in

from
eccentric
on
cam

shaft
Delivery

pressure

Drive

inter
llD
i

@
p1

11
l

1

14
l

1
Clutch
driven

pc
e

2
Qutch

assembly

3

Dutch
cover

4
Pressure

plate

5
Bolt

6

Eye
bolt

pivot
pin
81

r

Fig
E
I
The

diaphragm
spring
clutch

1
C7utch
driven

platt

2

Dutch
COl
tT
with

pnsmre
plate

3
8011

4
Lock
washer

5
Withdrawal

lacr

6
Retainer

spring

7

BeaMI
u
ve

8
Relmsf

bearing

9

Beving
s
vc
holder

spring

10
Dust
co
r

11

Fig
E
2
The
coil

spring
clutch

7

Inssure

spring

8

Spring
tainer

9

Release
In
O

10
Retf
t1sc

InleT
seat

11
Locknut

12
Releme
lever

support
19
R
hmr

beDrin8

20

Retaining
clip

21
DllJt
xw0

22
Return

sprint

23
Locknut

24
Wil
u
lnrrJ
raJ

Inn

pusher

44
13

Retaining
SProw

14
8011

15
LockwruheT

16
CTutch
withdrawal
lever

17

Retainer

spring

18
B

ng
sJ

CLUTCH
PEDAL

Adjusting

400
and
1600
cc
models

Adjust
the

pedal
height
to
209
mm
8
22
in

with
the

pedal

stop
slackened
off

by
altering
the

length
of
the
master

cylinder

push
rod
See

Fig
E
13

Tighten
the

pedal
stop
and
obtain

a

pedal
height
of
207
ffim

8
15
in
for
Left
Hand
drive
models

or
182
mID
7
I7
in
for

Right
Hand
drive
models
Secure
the

stop

by
tightening
the
locknut
and
make
sure

that
the

points

illustrated
are

correctly
greased

CLlTfCH
PEDAL

Adjusting

1800cc
models

Adjust
the

pedal
height
to

175
mm
6
89
in

by
adjusting

the

pedal

stop
See

Fig
E
13
then

retighten
the
locknut
A

to
a

torque
reading
of
0
79
1
07

kgm
6
8Ib
ft
Turn
the

master

cylinder
push
rod
to
obtain
a

play
between
1
Smm

0
04

0
2
in
at

the
clevis

pin
then

tighten
the
locknut
B

to

a

torque
reading
of
0
79
1
07

kgm
6
8
Ib
ft
Ensure
when

adjusting
the

play
that
the

port
on
the

master

cylinder
is
not

blocked

too
small
a

play
at
the
clevis

pin
may
block
the

port

Bend
the
clevis

pin
over

completely

CLlTfCH
MASTER
CYLINDER
Removal

and

Dismantling

Disconnect
the

push
rod
from
the
clevis

Fig
E
14

Detach
the
fluid
line
from
the
master

cylinder
and

pump

the
fluid
into
a
suitable
container

3
Withdraw
the

retaining
bolts
and
remove
the
master

cylinder
assembly
from

the
vehicle

To

dismantle
the
master

cylinder
remove

the
filler

cap
and
drain

away
the
fluid

Pull
back
the
dust
cover

and
remove

the

snap
ring
the

stopper

push
rod

piston
assembly
and
return

spring

Oean
the

components
in
brake
fluid

and
check
them
for
wear

or

damage

Renew
the

cylinder
and

piston
if
uneven
wear
has
taken

place

the
clearance

between
the

cylinder
and

piston
must
not
exceed

0
13
mm
0
005
in

Renew
the
dust
cover
oil
reservoir
filler

cap
and
fluid
line
if

necessary

Reassembly
of
the
master

cylinder
is
a
reversal
of

the
dismantling

procedure
take
care
to

soak
the

components
in
brake
fluid
and

assemble
them
while
still
wet

When
the
master

cylinder
is
installed
in
the
vehicle
make
sure

that
the

pedal
height
is

adjusted
as

previously
described
and

bleed
the
hydraulic
system

by
following
the

procedures
given

under
the

heading
CLlTfCH
SYSTEM

Bleeding

CLlTfCH
SLAVE
CYLINDER
Removal
and

Dismantling

Remove
the
return

spring

2
Disconnect
the
fluid
line
from
the
slave

cylinder

D
3
Disconnect
the
push
rod
from
the
clutch
withdrawal
lever

4
Take
out

the
mounting
bolts
and
withdraw
the
slave

cylinder
from
the
clutch
housing

To
dismantle
the
slave
cylinder
remove
the
dust
cover

and

snap
ring
and
withdraw
the

remaining
parts
from

the
cylinder

Oean
all

components
carefully
and
check
them
for

signs

of

damage
or
wear
renew

any

part
found
to

be
defective
and

fit
a
new

piston
seal

CLUTCH
SLAVE
CYLINDER

Assembly
and
Installation

Reassembly
is
a
reversal
of

the
dismantling
procedure

Ensure
that
the

parts
are

dipped
in

brake
flu
d
before

assembling

and
that
the

piston
seal
is

correctly
installed

When
the
slave

cylinder
is
installed
in
the
vehicle
bleed

the
hydraulic
system
by
following
the

procedures
given
under

the

heading
CLlTfCH
SYSTEM

Bleeding

The

push
rod
must
be

adjusted
so
that
the
withdrawal

lever

has
an
end

play
of
2
0
2
3
mm
0
078
0
091
in
details

of
this

operation
are

given
below

CLlTfCH
WITHDRAWAL
LEVER

Adjusting

The
correct

adjustment
of
the
clutch
withdrawal
lever
is

most
essential
as
insufficient

clearance
between
the
clutch

release

bearing
and
the

diaphragm
will
cause
the
clutch
to

slip

On
the
other
hand
an
excessive
clearance
will

prevent
the
clutch

from

disengaging
correctly

The
clearance
between

the
release

bearing
and

diaphragm

or
release
levers
can
be

adjusted
in
the

following
manner

Slacken
the
locknut

Fig
E
IS
and
screw

the

push
rod

fully
home
with
the

adjusting
nut
Return
the

adjusting
nut

I
3
4
turns

to
adjust
the

play
at
the
end
of
the
clutch
withdrawal

lever
to

2
0
2
3
mm
0
078
0
091
in
This
will

give
a
clear

ance
of

approximately
1
3
mm

0
051
in

between
the
release

bearing
and
the

diaphragm
spring
or
release
levers

NOTE
When

adjusting
clutch

pedal
free
travel
at

the
withdrawal

lever
it
is
essential
to
check
that
the
clutch
driven

plate

has
not
worn

by
more
than
2mm
0
08
in
otherwise

the
clutch
will

slip
even
if

it
is

correctly
adjusted
See

Technical
Data
for
the
relevant
clutch
driven

plate

thickness

CLUTCH
SYSTEM

Bleeding

The
clutch

system
must
be
bled
after
it
has
been
dismantled

or
if

any
part
of
the
circuit
has
been

opened
This

operation

should
also
be
carried
out
if
the
fluid
level
in

the
reservoir
has

been
allowed
to
fall
and

pennit
air
to
enter
the

system

The

presence
of
air
in
the

system
may
be
noticed

by

incorrect
disengagement
of
the
clutch
but
in
any
case
if
air
is

suspected
the
clutch
must

be
bled
in

the
following
manner

Remove
the
dust

cap
from
the
slave

cylinder
bleed
screw

Connect
a

length
of
tube
to
the
bleed
screw
and
immerse
the

47

inter
1D7
J

3

T
T

aj

W

n
J

I

1

T

f
T
7

e

Fig
E
II

Adjustillll
the

height
of
the
release

levers
Fig
E
12
Actuating
the
clutch
to
settle
the

mechanism

Tightening
torque
3
5
to
4
0

kltm

125
to
29

h
lb

Rs

@

A
l

I
l

1
3
fP

I

01
I

8J

I

Jt
I

Lock
A

2

Lock
ul
Bn

Adjwt
by
adjust
of
master

cyl

@
Lubricatic
l

Clutch
dal
full

trek
140
4

mm
5
51
0
16

Clutch

pedal
free
stroke
25
mm
0
98
Pedal

height
175
mm
6
89
nl

Pc

dalfullstrokc
b

135mm
5
JI
n

@
Multi

purpo
greasc

510
series
610
series

Fig
E
l3

Adjusting
the
clutch

pedal

I

48

inter
lliJ
j

flDlJ
l

Jl

iO

n
cxB
L

of

lii
t
hl
9

q
6
15

1

r

8t

r

L
L
I
i

1
2
9

@
7
5I1

9
QlIf12
12J
J
7
ll
I

I

o

Q

1

Cylinder

2

Return

spring

3
Piston

4

Secondary
cup

5
Piston

cup

6

Supply
valve
seat

7

Supply
valve
stem

8

Supply
lIOlve

spring
9

Spring
seat

10
Va
ve

stem

stop

11

Stopper
gasket

12
Gasket

ring

13
Push
rod

14
Push
rod
ht
lld

15
Wdd
nut

16
Lock
nut
17
Piston

stopper

18

Stopper
ring

19
Boots

20
Oil
reservoir

21
Rese1l
Oir
band

22

Reservoir

cop

23

Cap

24

Pipe
seat
J

J

5

9

a

ID

1

Cylinder

2
Return

spring

C1

3
Piston

4

Spring
seat

5
Push
rod

6
Nut

7

Stopper
ring

8

Stopper

9
Dust
cover

10
on
reservoir

1
J
Reservoir
balld

12
Reservoir

cap

Fig
E

14
Section

through
the
clutch
master

cylinder

Adjusting
nut

Fig
E
l
S

Adjusting
the
clutch
withdrawal
lever

49

Gearbox

GEARBOX
Removal

GEARBOX

Dismantling

GEARBOX
Inspection
and
Overhaul

GEARBOX

Assembling

THREE
SPEED
GEARBOX
GEARCHANGE
CONTROL
Removal
and

Adjusting

AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION

Gearchange
control

linkage

DESCRIPTION

Three

types
of
transmission
are
available
for
the
Datsun

models
covered

by
this
manual
Either
a
three

speed
gearbox

a
four

speed
gearbox
or
three

speed
automatic
transmission

can
be
fitted

The

three
and
four

speed
gearboxes
are

equipped
with

nchromesh
on
all
forward

gears
with
the
three

speed
gearbox

operated
by
a

steering
column

gearchange
system
and
the
four

speed
gearbox
by
a
floor
mounted

gear
lever

Two

types
of

synchromesh
are
used
in
the
four

speed

gearboxes
Either

Borg
Warner
or
Servo

types
may
be
fitted

The

gearboxes
differ

only
in
the

synchromesh
devices

whereby

the
baulk

rings
synchronize
the

coupling
sleeve
with
the
main

shaft

gear
on

the
Warner

gearbox
This
action
is

accomplished

by
a

synchrcrring
on
the
servo

gearbox

THREE
SPEED
GEARBOX
Removal

I
Jack

up
the
vehicle
and

support
it
on
stands

2
Disconnect
the
hand
brake
cable
at
the

equalizer
bracket

Slacken
the
two
exhaust

pipe
centre

clamps
and
turn
the

centre
section
of
the
exhaust
assembly
to
the
left
as
shown

in

Fig
F
2

3
Disconnect
the

propeller
shaft
from
the
rear
axle
drive

flange
by
removing
the
four

securing
bolts
Seal
off

the

gearbox
extension

housing
to

prevent
the
loss
of
oil
and

withdraw
the
shaft
to
the
rear

4
Disconnect
the

speedometer
drive
cable
from

the
adaptor

in
the

gearbox
extension

housing
Fig
F3

S
Disconnect
the
lower
shift
rods
from
the
shift
levers

Fig
F
4
and
remove
the
cross
shaft

assembly
from
the

gearbox
casing
Remove
the
clutch
slave

cylinder
from
the

clutch

housing
Fig
F
5

6

Support
the

engine
with

ajack
positioned
underneath
the

oil

sump
making
sure

that
the

jack
does
not
foul
the
drain

plug
A
block
of
wood
should
be

placed
between
the

sump

and

jack
to

avoid

damaging
the

sump

7
Remove
the
bolts

securing
the
rear

engine
mounting
to

the
crossmember
Position

ajack
under
the

gearbox
and

remove
the
bolts

attaching
the
crossmember
to
the

body

Lower
the

jack
under
the

engine
so
that
the

engine
is

tilted
to
the
rear
Remove
the
starter

motor
and
the
bolts

securing
the

clutch

housing
to
the

engine
Lower
the

jack

slowly
and
withdraw
the

gearbox
towards
the
rear
of
the

vehicle
THREE
SPEED
GEARBOX

Dismantling

Drain
the

gearbox
oil
Remove
the
dust
cover
release

the
retainer

spring
and
remove

the
withdrawal
lever

complete

with
release

bearing
from
the
clutch

housing
See
section

CLUTCH

Remove
the

gearbox
bottom
cover
the

speedometer
drive

pinion
assembly
and
the
rear
extension

housing
Take
out

the

cross
shaft

retaining
rings
and
unscrew
the
nuts

securing
the

operating
lever
lock

pins
Use
a
hammer
and

punch
to
drive

out
the

pins
and
withdraw
both
cross
shafts

Fig
F
6

Remove
the
fr
mt
cover

and
withdraw
the
counter
shaft

Lift
out

the
countersbaft

gear
cluster

together
with
the
needle

roller

bearings
and

spacers
Fig
F
7
Remove
the
reverse
idler

gear
shaft
lock
bolt
and
remove
the
shaft
and
the
idler

gear

Fig
F
B
Drive
out
the

pins
securing
the
selector
forks
to
the

selector
rods

Unscrew
the
interlock

plug
and
remove
the
detent
ball

and

spring
Fig
F
9
Remove
the
first
reverse

speed
and
second

third

speed
selector
rods
and
lift
out

the
selector
forks

Withdraw
the
main
shaft
assembly
and
the
drive
shaft

assembly
from
the

gearbox
See

Fig
F
1O
and
F
11

To
dismantle
the
mainshaft
release
the

circlip
from
the

front
of
the
mainshaft
as
shown
in

Fig
F
12
and
remove
the

second
and
third

speed
synchronizer
hub
and
second

speed

gearwheel
Fig
F
13
Remove
the

circlip
securing
the
speedo

meter
drive

gear
and
withdraw
the

gear
together
with
the
ball

and

spacer
Fig
F
14
Remove
the
mainshaft

bearing
using
a

press
Hold
the
rnainshaft
reverse

gear
and

tap
the
shaft
on
a

piece
of
wood
to
release
the
reverse

gear
assembly
together

with
the
first

speed
gearwheel

GEARBOX

Inspection
and
Overhaul

Oean
all

parts
thoroughly
and
examine
the

gearbox
case

and
extension
housing
for
cracks

If
the

joint
faces
are
burred
or

pitted
it

may
be

necessary

to

replace
the
units
if

repair
cannot
be
carried
out
satisfactorily

Remove
any
adhesive
which
remains
on

the
faces

The
rear
extension

housing
bush
should
be
renewed
if

worn

unevenly
Clean
the

bearings
and

dry
with
compressed
air

taking
care
that
the
bearings
do
not

spin
Turn
the
ball

bearings

to
make
sure

that
they
run

smoothly
and
without
play
Replace

the
needle

bearings
if
worn
or

damaged
in
any

way

It
is
advisable
to
renew

the
needle
roller

bearings
after

they

have
been
installed
for
a
considerable

period
as
it
is
difficult

51

jiii
c

c
inteN
I
j

D

p

Fig
F

7

Removing
the

countershaft

gear

Fig
F
6

Removing
the
ero
shaft

tT

l

Fig
F
S

Removing
the
reverse

idler

gear
JO

Fig
F
9

Removing
the
interlock

plug

F
8
F
I
0

Withdrawing
the
mainshaft

gear
assembly

Fig
F
lI

Removing
the
main
drive
shaft

Fig
F
12

Removing
the
2nd
and
3rd

speed

syndlroniur
hub

circlup
f

Ii

ii
jjf

vr

O

Fig
F
13

Removins
the
2nd
and
3rd

speed
hub

and

2nd

speed
gearwheel

S3

to
ascertain
the
amount
of
wear
that
has
taken

place

Check
the
teeth
of
the

gearwheels
and
the
machined
surfaces

for

signs
of
wear

scoring
pitting
and
burrs
Ensure
that
the

synchronizer
hubs
slide

freely
on
the

splines
of

the
main
shaft

with
minimum
clearance
Check

the
mainshaft
for
run
out

using
V
blocks
and
a
dial

gauge
as
shown
in

Fig
F
15
Renew

the
mainshaft
if
the
run
out
exceeds
0
15mm
0
0059
in

Check
the

synchronizer
rings
for
wear
and
renew
them
if

necessary
Place
the

rings
in

position
on

their

respective
gear

wheel
cones
and
check
the

gap
between
the
end
of
the

ring
and

the
front
face
of

the
teeth
Fig
F
16
The
correct

gap
should

be
within
1
2
1
6mm
0
047
0
063
in
Renew
the
synchronizer

ring
if
the

gap
is
less
than
0
8mm
0
0315
in

Place
the
selector
rods
on
a
flat
surface
and
check
them
for

traightness
Renew

any
rod
which
is
bent
Renew
the

locking

pins
and
interlock
balls
if

they
are
worn
or

damaged
The

standard
clearance
between
the
selector
forks
and

operating

sleeve

groove
is
0
15
0
30mm
0
006
0
012
in

Make
sure
that
the
oil
seals
are

satisfactory
and
discard

the
O

rings

THREE
SPEED
GEARBOX

Assembly

Press
the
main
drive
gear

bearing
onto
the
main
drive
shaft

and
fit
the

spacer
Select
a

snap
ring
of
suitable
thickness
so

that
all

play
is
eliminated
between
the

bearing
and

snap
ring

Seven
sizes
of

snap
rings
are
available
and

vary
in
thickness
from

1
52mm
0
0598
in
to
1
89mm
0
0747in

The

synchromesh
unit
consists
of
a

coupling
sleeve
baulk

ring
spring
synchronizer
hub
and
insert
When

assembling
the

unit
make
sure
that
the
correct
insert

pressure
springs
are
fitted

to

the
relevant

speed
unit
The
first
reverse

gear
synchronizer

should
be
fitted
with
the
three
coil

spring
type
and
the
second

third

gear
synchronizer
with
the
two

expanding
springs

To
assemble
the
fiI3t

speed
synchronizer
insert
the

sliding

insert

snap
ring
onto

the
synchronizer
hub
as
shown
in

Fig
F
17

Fit
the

sliding
inserts

Fig
F
18
and

the
synchronizer
springs

on
the

synchronizer
hub
and
assemble
the

synchronizer
hub

complete
with
inserts
into
the

coupling
sleeve

Fig
F
19

Assemble
the
second
third

gear
synchronizer
hub
and

coupling
sleeve

making
sure

that
the
sleeve
slides

freely
on
the

hub

splines
Fit
the
three

shifting
inserts
and
install
a

spring
ring

on

each
side
of
the
hub
Fig
F
20

To
assemble
the
mainshaft
start
from
the
front
end
of
the

shaft
and
slide
the
second

speed
gearwheel
on
to
the
shaft
with

the

tapered
cone

facing
forwards
Install
the
baulk
ring
on
the

gearwheel
and

place
the
second
third
speed
synchronizer
assembly

on
the
front
end
of
the
shaft
and
retain
it
with
a

snap
ring
which

will

give
an
end

play
of
0
05
0
25
mm
0
002
0
009
in

Snap
rings
are
available
in
five
sizes
from
1
60
1
80
mm

0
063
0
071
in

Fit
the
first

speed
gear
and
baulk

ring
on
the
rear
of

the

shaft
so
that
the

tapered
cone
faces
to

the
rear

Assemble
the

first

speed
synchronizer
and
reverse

gear
on
the
shaft
Fit
the

spacer
and

press
the
mainshaft

bearing
complete
with
retainer

onto
the
shaft
Install
the

spacer
ball
and

speedometer
drive
pinion

Select
a

snap
ring
which
will
give
an
end
float
of
0
05
0
22mm

0
002
0
009
in
on
the
mainshaft
first

gear
Snap
rings
are

available
in

eight
thicknesses
from
1
30mrn
0
0512
in

to

1
70mm
0
0669
in

Secure
the
drive

gear
with
the
selected

snap
ring
and
check

the
end
float
of
the

gearwheels
as

shown
in

Fig
F
21
The
correct

end
float
should
be
as
follows

I
st

speed
gearwheel
0
2
o
3mm

0
008
0
012
in

0
2
0
3mm

0
008
0
012
in
2nd

speed
gearwheel

Fit
the
main
drive

gear
and
mainshaft

assembly
into
the

gearbox
casing
Fit
the
selector
rods
and
forks
as
follows

Turn
the

gearbox
casing
so
that
the
detent
ball
hole

is

uppermost
and
insert
the

spring
and
ball
in
the
bottom
of
the

hole
Hold
the
ball
witb
a

dummy
shaft

and
install
tbe
first

reverse
selector
fork
and
rod
pushing
the

dummy
shaft
out

of

position
Insert
the

interlocking
plunger
and
fit
the
second
third

speed
selector
fork
and
rod

Insert
the
steel
ball
and

spring
and

refit
the

interlocking
plug
after

coating
the
threads
of
the

plug

with

sealing
compound
See

Fig
F
22

Secure
the
selector
forks

to

the
rods

by
inserting
the

retaining
pins

Fit
the
reverse
idler

gear
and
shaft
and
secure

the
shaft

with
the
lock
bolt
and

plate
Insert
the
counter

gear
cluster
and

shaft

using
a
suitable
thrust
washer
to
obtain
an
end
float
of

0
04
0
12
mm
0
0016
0
0047
in
Thrust
washers
are
available

in
five
sizes
from
3
85
4
05
mm
0
1516
0
1594
in
thickness

in
increments
of

0
05
mm
0
002
in

Fit
the
cross
shafts

1
in

Fig
F
23
the
thrust
washers
2

and
the

operating
levers
3
Secure
the
cross
shafts
with
the

retaining
rings
5
and
lock
the

operating
levers
to
the
shafts
with

the

pins
4

Locate
the
rear
extension

housing
on
the

gearbox
case

and

tighten
the
bolts
to
a

torque
reading
of
2
8
4
4

kgm

20

32
Ib
ft
Insert
the

speedometer
drive

pinion
and
retain
it

with
the
set

bolt
and
lock
plate
Check
the
backlash
of
all
the

gears
using
a
dial

gauge
as
shown
in

Fig
F
24
The
backlash

should
be
between
0
05
0
20
mm
0
002
0
008
in
Fit
the

gearbox
front
cover
and

tighten
the
fixing
bolts
to
a

torque

reading
of
1
I
1
7

kgm
8
0
12
3
lb
ft

taking
care
not
to

damage
the
oil
seal
Fit
the
clutch
release
bearing
and
with

drawallever

Fig
F
25

Replace
the
bottom
cover
and
tighten

the
bolts
to
a

torque
reading
of
1
I
1
7

kgm
8
0
12
31b
ft

THREE
SPEED
GEARBOX
Installation

Installation
of
the

gearbox
is
a
reversal
of

the
removal

procedure
noting
the
following

points

Fit
the

gearbox
with
I
7

litre
0
45
US
gall
0
37

Imp

gall
of
MP
90

gear
oil

Adjust
the
clutch
slave

cylinder
push
rod
as
described
in

the
section
CLUTCH
to

provide
a
free

play
of
2
2
mm
0
087in

at
the
withdrawal
lever

55