Clutch
DESCRIPTION
CLUTCH
Removal
and
Dismantling
CLUTCH
Inspection
and
Adjustment
CLUTCH
Installation
CLUTCH
PEDAL
Removal
and
Installation
DESCRIPTION
Either
a
diaphragm
spring
or
coil
spring
type
clutch
is
fitted
to
the
vehicle
The
component
parts
of
the
diaphragm
spring
clutch
are
shown
in
Fig
E
l
and
the
component
parts
of
the
coil
spring
clutch
are
shown
in
Fig
E
2
The
clutch
is
of
the
single
dry
plate
type
consisting
of
the
drive
plate
clutch
coveT
and
pressure
plate
and
release
bearing
The
driven
plate
comprises
a
flexible
disc
and
splined
hub
which
slides
on
the
clutch
shaft
Friction
linings
are
rivetted
to
both
sides
of
the
disc
The
clutch
cover
and
pressure
plate
are
combined
by
nine
spring
setting
bolts
The
diaphragm
is
dished
to
maintain
a
constant
pressure
on
the
pressure
plate
which
in
turn
holds
the
driven
plate
in
contact
with
the
flywheel
The
release
bearing
is
a
sealed
type
ball
bearing
mounted
on
a
bearing
sleeve
Both
bearing
and
sleeve
are
operated
by
the
withdrawalleveT
when
the
clutch
pedal
is
operated
The
clutch
pedal
actuates
a
master
cylinder
which
transmits
fluid
under
pressure
to
a
slave
cylinder
The
movement
of
the
slave
cylinder
piston
operates
the
clutch
withdrawal
lever
via
a
push
rod
See
Fig
E
14
CLUTCH
Removal
and
Dismantling
The
gearbox
must
be
removed
from
the
vehicle
before
the
clutch
can
be
withdrawn
The
procedures
for
removing
the
gearbox
can
be
found
in
the
section
GEARBOX
If
a
diaphragm
clutch
is
fitted
insert
a
spare
clutch
shaft
or
a
special
alignment
tool
ST20600000
into
the
splines
of
the
driven
plate
So
that
the
dutch
is
supported
Slacken
the
six
bolts
securing
the
clutch
cover
to
the
flywheel
by
a
single
turn
at
a
time
and
in
a
diagonal
pattern
until
the
spring
pressure
is
relieved
Remove
the
bolts
completely
and
lift
away
the
clutch
assembly
When
removing
the
coil
spring
type
clutch
it
will
be
necessary
to
insert
suitable
hooks
under
the
release
levers
to
restrain
the
tension
of
the
clutch
spring
before
removing
the
clutch
cover
lx
llts
Ensure
that
the
friction
linings
of
the
driven
plate
do
not
become
comtaminated
with
oil
or
grease
when
removing
the
plate
from
the
splined
shaft
Diaphragm
clutch
The
clutch
cover
and
pressure
plate
assembly
should
not
be
dismantled
and
must
be
replaced
if
wear
or
damage
has
occurred
Make
sure
that
the
friction
face
of
the
pressure
plate
CLUTCH
PEDAL
Adjusting
CLUTCH
MASTER
CYLINDER
CLUTCH
SLAVE
CYLINDER
CLUTCH
WITHDRAWAL
LEVER
Adjusting
CLUTCH
SYSTEM
Bleeding
is
perfectly
flat
and
smooth
Coil
spring
clutch
A
special
tool
No
ST200S0000
is
available
to
ensure
that
the
clutch
can
be
dismantled
and
accurately
reassembled
The
tool
shown
in
Fig
E
3
consists
of
a
Base
plate
I
Centre
spigot
2
Distance
pieces
3
Height
gauge
4
Operating
lever
5
Securing
bolts
6
A
chart
is
included
to
indicate
the
various
parts
to
be
used
for
each
type
of
clutch
To
dismantle
the
clutch
place
the
distance
pieces
on
the
base
plate
as
shown
and
arrange
the
clutch
cover
on
the
base
plate
so
that
the
cover
holes
coincide
with
the
threaded
holes
in
the
base
plate
Insert
the
securing
bolts
provided
in
the
kit
and
tighten
them
gradually
and
evenly
in
a
diagonal
pattern
until
the
cover
is
firmly
attached
to
the
base
plate
Mark
the
clutch
cover
the
pressure
plate
lugs
and
the
release
levers
with
a
centre
punch
so
that
they
can
be
reassembled
in
their
original
positions
Remove
the
restraining
hooks
from
the
release
levers
and
unscrew
the
three
nuts
from
the
eye
bolts
Slowly
release
the
pressure
on
the
clutch
coil
springs
by
unscrewing
the
bolts
securing
the
cover
to
the
base
plate
and
lift
off
the
cover
springs
and
pressure
plate
CLUTCH
Inspection
and
Adjustment
Use
a
solvent
to
clean
the
dismantled
parts
with
the
exception
of
the
disc
linings
and
the
release
bearing
Check
the
clutch
cover
diaphragm
spring
and
pressure
plate
assembly
for
wear
or
damage
and
renew
the
complete
assembly
if
necessary
The
pressure
plate
on
the
coil
spring
clutch
can
be
lapped
if
necessary
as
described
below
Ensure
that
the
disc
rivets
are
not
loosened
and
inspect
the
linings
for
contamination
Grease
or
oil
should
be
removed
and
the
linings
dressed
using
a
wire
brush
Check
the
disc
for
run
ut
using
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
E
4
Position
the
dial
gauge
at
a
point
approximately
9Smm
3
74
in
from
the
centre
of
the
disc
and
check
that
the
run
out
does
not
exceed
the
permissible
limit
of
0
5
mm
0
02in
A
slight
deflection
can
be
corrected
by
hand
pressure
with
the
disc
mounted
on
the
gearbox
shaft
The
disc
must
be
renewed
or
relined
if
the
height
of
the
linings
above
the
rivets
is
less
than
0
3mm
0
012
in
Replace
the
bearing
sleeve
if
it
shows
signs
of
wear
at
the
point
of
contact
with
the
withdrawal
lever
Replace
the
release
bearing
if
grease
is
leaking
from
it
or
if
it
is
noisy
when
turned
43
The
coil
spring
clutch
pressure
plate
can
be
lapped
with
a
surface
grinder
to
remove
dents
or
scratches
only
the
minimum
amount
of
metal
should
be
removed
to
restore
the
surface
Check
the
plate
for
distortion
by
placing
it
on
a
surface
plate
with
the
friction
face
towards
the
surface
plate
Press
the
pressure
plate
down
and
insert
a
feeler
gauge
of
1
0mm
0
0039
in
between
the
pressure
plate
and
surface
plate
If
it
is
possible
to
insert
the
feeler
gauge
then
the
pressure
plate
must
be
repaired
or
replaced
The
plate
can
be
skimmed
but
the
maximum
amount
of
metal
that
can
be
removed
is
1
0mm
0
0039in
CLUTCH
SPRING
Diaphragm
clutch
With
the
diaphragm
spring
assembled
to
the
pressure
plate
inspect
the
spring
height
and
load
in
the
following
manner
Place
distance
pieces
of
7
8
mm
0
307
in
on
the
base
plate
as
shown
in
Fig
E
3
and
bolt
down
the
clutch
cover
using
the
special
bolts
provided
with
the
kit
Meas
Jre
the
height
B
in
Fig
E
5
at
a
diameter
of
44mm
1
732
in
The
release
fingers
should
not
exceed
a
height
of
43
45
mm
1
693
1
772
in
from
the
base
plate
Replace
the
spring
if
the
height
is
in
excess
of
the
figures
quoted
Press
the
dutch
down
as
shown
in
Fig
E
6
to
a
depth
of
7
8mm
0
307
in
or
until
the
clutch
driven
plate
upper
surface
lines
up
with
the
clutch
cover
mounting
face
If
the
load
applied
is
less
than
350
kg
770
lbs
it
will
be
necessary
to
renew
the
diaphragm
spring
Do
not
press
the
clutch
disc
down
by
more
than
9mm
0
35
in
or
the
diaphragm
spring
may
be
broken
CLUTCH
SPRINGS
Coil
spring
clutch
The
clutch
springs
must
be
replaced
as
a
set
if
any
of
the
springs
are
found
to
be
defective
Specifications
for
the
springs
are
given
in
Technical
Data
at
the
end
of
this
section
Generally
a
spring
may
be
considered
faulty
if
when
assembled
the
load
is
reduced
by
more
than
15
or
if
the
free
length
has
altered
by
more
than
1
5mm
0
0590
in
or
if
the
deflection
B
to
A
in
Fig
E
7
exceeds
5mm
per
100mm
0
2
in
per
3
94
in
Release
Bearing
The
release
bearing
should
be
renewed
if
excessively
worn
or
if
roughness
can
be
felt
when
the
bearing
is
turned
by
hand
The
bearing
should
also
be
renewed
if
the
grease
has
leaked
away
or
if
the
clearance
between
the
clutch
cover
and
inner
diameter
of
the
sleeve
is
more
than
0
5
mm
0
0197
in
The
bearing
can
be
removed
using
a
conventional
puller
as
shown
in
Fig
E
8
Two
types
of
release
bearings
are
available
and
care
must
be
taken
when
fitting
onto
the
bearing
sleeve
The
release
bearing
should
be
pressed
into
place
on
the
diaphragm
spring
type
of
clutch
with
a
force
of
400
kg
880
lbs
applied
at
the
outer
race
as
shown
in
Fig
E
9
On
the
coil
spring
clutch
the
same
force
must
be
applied
at
the
inner
race
as
shown
in
Fig
E
IO
It
should
be
possible
to
turn
the
bearing
freely
and
smoothly
when
it
is
pressed
into
place
CLUTCH
Assembly
Coil
spring
type
Press
the
pin
into
the
eyebolt
and
through
the
lug
on
the
pressure
plate
Place
the
three
distance
pieces
on
the
surface
of
the
base
plate
of
the
special
tool
ST20050000
and
position
the
pressure
plate
pressure
springs
and
retainers
on
the
plate
Set
the
retracting
springs
on
the
cover
and
insert
the
release
levers
through
the
spring
Place
the
clutch
cover
over
the
pressure
plate
and
springs
making
sure
that
the
retracting
springs
do
not
become
dislodged
or
distorted
Compress
the
pressure
springs
by
screwing
the
special
set
bolts
into
the
holes
in
the
cover
Tighten
the
bolts
gradually
in
a
diagonal
pattern
to
avoid
distorting
the
cover
Place
the
release
levers
on
the
eye
bolts
and
screw
OR
the
securing
nuts
Place
retaining
hooks
under
the
release
levers
and
remove
the
clutch
assembly
from
the
base
plate
slackening
the
set
bolts
in
a
diagonal
pattern
COIL
SPRING
CLUTCH
Adjusting
Screw
the
centre
pillar
into
the
base
plate
and
place
the
high
finger
over
the
pillar
The
height
of
the
release
levers
must
be
adjusted
by
turning
the
eye
bolt
nuts
until
the
tops
of
the
release
levers
are
just
touching
the
tip
of
the
gauge
See
Fig
E
11
Remove
the
centre
pillar
when
the
release
levers
are
correctly
adjusted
and
screw
in
the
actuating
lever
Fig
E
12
Turn
the
actuating
mechanism
several
times
to
bed
down
the
parts
and
then
recheck
the
height
of
the
release
levers
Check
for
run
out
as
near
to
the
edge
as
possible
and
readjust
if
the
deviation
is
more
than
0
5
mrn
0
020
in
CLUTCH
InsWlation
Ensure
that
the
friction
faces
are
free
from
oil
and
grease
and
place
the
driven
plate
on
the
flywheel
The
longer
chamfered
splined
end
of
the
assembly
should
face
the
gearbox
Use
a
spare
drive
shaft
to
align
the
driven
plate
The
shaft
must
be
inserted
through
the
splined
hub
of
the
driven
plate
and
into
the
pilot
bearing
of
the
flywheel
Place
the
clutch
cover
into
position
on
the
flywheel
and
tighten
the
dutch
bolts
gradually
in
a
diagonal
pattern
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
5
2
2
kgm
11
16Ib
ft
Remove
the
dummy
shaft
and
the
restraining
hooks
from
the
release
levers
Refit
the
release
bearing
and
the
bell
housing
CLUTCH
PEDAL
Removal
and
Installation
Remove
the
clevis
pin
from
the
end
of
the
master
cylinder
pushrod
and
disconnect
the
pushrod
Remove
the
return
spring
Remove
the
pushrod
after
slackening
the
pushrod
adjuster
Coil
spring
clutch
only
Remove
the
pedal
lever
securing
bolt
slacken
the
handbrake
bracket
bolts
and
lift
out
the
pedal
Clean
all
parts
thoroughly
and
check
them
for
wear
or
damage
paying
particular
attention
to
the
rubber
parts
return
spring
and
pedal
lever
bush
Installation
of
the
clutch
pedal
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedures
45
other
end
of
the
tube
into
a
clean
container
partly
filled
with
brake
fluid
Top
up
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
with
recommended
fluid
and
open
the
bleed
screw
approximately
three
quarters
of
a
turn
Depress
the
clutch
pedal
slowly
and
hold
it
completely
down
re
tighten
the
bleed
screw
and
allow
the
pedal
to
return
slowly
Repeat
the
operation
until
the
fluid
emerging
from
the
tube
is
free
from
air
bubbles
It
should
be
noted
that
assistance
will
be
required
when
carrying
out
bleeding
operations
as
not
only
must
the
fluid
entering
the
glass
container
be
watched
but
also
the
clutch
pedal
has
to
be
operated
and
the
reservoir
topped
up
frequently
throughout
the
procedure
When
the
fluid
is
completely
free
from
air
bubbles
the
bleed
screw
should
be
retightened
on
a
down
stroke
of
the
pedal
Finally
remove
the
bleed
tube
and
replace
the
dust
cap
TechnIcal
Data
Outch
type
Pressure
spring
Free
length
Fitted
length
and
load
Side
distortion
Permissible
deterioration
of
spring
force
Outch
release
levers
Oearance
between
release
bearing
and
diaphragm
spring
release
levers
Height
between
diaphragm
spring
and
flywheel
Height
between
release
levers
and
flywheel
Outch
driven
plate
Outer
diameter
Inner
diameter
Thickness
of
facingS
Total
friction
area
TIrickness
of
clutch
plate
Free
Compressed
No
of
torsion
springs
Permissible
minimum
depth
of
rivet
heads
from
facing
surface
Permissible
run
out
of
clutch
facing
P
rmissible
free
play
of
splines
Outch
pedal
1400
and
1600cc
models
Pedal
height
in
the
rest
position
P
da1
free
stroke
P
da1
effort
Master
cylinder
Diameter
Maximum
clearance
between
piston
and
cylinder
Pressure
plate
Permissible
refacing
limit
Outch
pedal
180Occ
models
P
da1
height
Play
at
clevis
pin
Full
stroke
P
da1
effort
50
Diaphragm
spring
or
coil
spring
52
3mm
2
059
in
29
2mm
44
2kg
1
149
in
197
t
4
4
lb
5mm
per
IOOmm
0
2in
per
3
94
in
15
1
2
I
4mm
0
047
0
055
in
44
t
Imm
1
732
t
0
039
in
50
5
t
0
05mm
1
988
t
0
0197
in
200mm
7
87
in
130mm
5
12in
3
5mm
0
140in
362
sq
cm
56
11
sq
in
8
6
9
0mm
0
3386
o
3543in
7
65
7
95mm
0
3012
o
3130in
6
O
3mm
0
0118
in
0
5mm
0
0197
in
0
4mm
0
0157
in
182mm
7
17in
R
H
D
207mm
8
15in
L
H
D
25mm
0
984in
15kg
33
lb
15
87mm
0
625in
O
13mm
0
005lin
Imm
0
0394in
175mm
6
89in
1
5mm
0
04
0
20in
135mm
5
3lin
10
5kg
23Ib
to
ascertain
the
amount
of
wear
that
has
taken
place
Check
the
teeth
of
the
gearwheels
and
the
machined
surfaces
for
signs
of
wear
scoring
pitting
and
burrs
Ensure
that
the
synchronizer
hubs
slide
freely
on
the
splines
of
the
main
shaft
with
minimum
clearance
Check
the
mainshaft
for
run
out
using
V
blocks
and
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
F
15
Renew
the
mainshaft
if
the
run
out
exceeds
0
15mm
0
0059
in
Check
the
synchronizer
rings
for
wear
and
renew
them
if
necessary
Place
the
rings
in
position
on
their
respective
gear
wheel
cones
and
check
the
gap
between
the
end
of
the
ring
and
the
front
face
of
the
teeth
Fig
F
16
The
correct
gap
should
be
within
1
2
1
6mm
0
047
0
063
in
Renew
the
synchronizer
ring
if
the
gap
is
less
than
0
8mm
0
0315
in
Place
the
selector
rods
on
a
flat
surface
and
check
them
for
traightness
Renew
any
rod
which
is
bent
Renew
the
locking
pins
and
interlock
balls
if
they
are
worn
or
damaged
The
standard
clearance
between
the
selector
forks
and
operating
sleeve
groove
is
0
15
0
30mm
0
006
0
012
in
Make
sure
that
the
oil
seals
are
satisfactory
and
discard
the
O
rings
THREE
SPEED
GEARBOX
Assembly
Press
the
main
drive
gear
bearing
onto
the
main
drive
shaft
and
fit
the
spacer
Select
a
snap
ring
of
suitable
thickness
so
that
all
play
is
eliminated
between
the
bearing
and
snap
ring
Seven
sizes
of
snap
rings
are
available
and
vary
in
thickness
from
1
52mm
0
0598
in
to
1
89mm
0
0747in
The
synchromesh
unit
consists
of
a
coupling
sleeve
baulk
ring
spring
synchronizer
hub
and
insert
When
assembling
the
unit
make
sure
that
the
correct
insert
pressure
springs
are
fitted
to
the
relevant
speed
unit
The
first
reverse
gear
synchronizer
should
be
fitted
with
the
three
coil
spring
type
and
the
second
third
gear
synchronizer
with
the
two
expanding
springs
To
assemble
the
fiI3t
speed
synchronizer
insert
the
sliding
insert
snap
ring
onto
the
synchronizer
hub
as
shown
in
Fig
F
17
Fit
the
sliding
inserts
Fig
F
18
and
the
synchronizer
springs
on
the
synchronizer
hub
and
assemble
the
synchronizer
hub
complete
with
inserts
into
the
coupling
sleeve
Fig
F
19
Assemble
the
second
third
gear
synchronizer
hub
and
coupling
sleeve
making
sure
that
the
sleeve
slides
freely
on
the
hub
splines
Fit
the
three
shifting
inserts
and
install
a
spring
ring
on
each
side
of
the
hub
Fig
F
20
To
assemble
the
mainshaft
start
from
the
front
end
of
the
shaft
and
slide
the
second
speed
gearwheel
on
to
the
shaft
with
the
tapered
cone
facing
forwards
Install
the
baulk
ring
on
the
gearwheel
and
place
the
second
third
speed
synchronizer
assembly
on
the
front
end
of
the
shaft
and
retain
it
with
a
snap
ring
which
will
give
an
end
play
of
0
05
0
25
mm
0
002
0
009
in
Snap
rings
are
available
in
five
sizes
from
1
60
1
80
mm
0
063
0
071
in
Fit
the
first
speed
gear
and
baulk
ring
on
the
rear
of
the
shaft
so
that
the
tapered
cone
faces
to
the
rear
Assemble
the
first
speed
synchronizer
and
reverse
gear
on
the
shaft
Fit
the
spacer
and
press
the
mainshaft
bearing
complete
with
retainer
onto
the
shaft
Install
the
spacer
ball
and
speedometer
drive
pinion
Select
a
snap
ring
which
will
give
an
end
float
of
0
05
0
22mm
0
002
0
009
in
on
the
mainshaft
first
gear
Snap
rings
are
available
in
eight
thicknesses
from
1
30mrn
0
0512
in
to
1
70mm
0
0669
in
Secure
the
drive
gear
with
the
selected
snap
ring
and
check
the
end
float
of
the
gearwheels
as
shown
in
Fig
F
21
The
correct
end
float
should
be
as
follows
I
st
speed
gearwheel
0
2
o
3mm
0
008
0
012
in
0
2
0
3mm
0
008
0
012
in
2nd
speed
gearwheel
Fit
the
main
drive
gear
and
mainshaft
assembly
into
the
gearbox
casing
Fit
the
selector
rods
and
forks
as
follows
Turn
the
gearbox
casing
so
that
the
detent
ball
hole
is
uppermost
and
insert
the
spring
and
ball
in
the
bottom
of
the
hole
Hold
the
ball
witb
a
dummy
shaft
and
install
tbe
first
reverse
selector
fork
and
rod
pushing
the
dummy
shaft
out
of
position
Insert
the
interlocking
plunger
and
fit
the
second
third
speed
selector
fork
and
rod
Insert
the
steel
ball
and
spring
and
refit
the
interlocking
plug
after
coating
the
threads
of
the
plug
with
sealing
compound
See
Fig
F
22
Secure
the
selector
forks
to
the
rods
by
inserting
the
retaining
pins
Fit
the
reverse
idler
gear
and
shaft
and
secure
the
shaft
with
the
lock
bolt
and
plate
Insert
the
counter
gear
cluster
and
shaft
using
a
suitable
thrust
washer
to
obtain
an
end
float
of
0
04
0
12
mm
0
0016
0
0047
in
Thrust
washers
are
available
in
five
sizes
from
3
85
4
05
mm
0
1516
0
1594
in
thickness
in
increments
of
0
05
mm
0
002
in
Fit
the
cross
shafts
1
in
Fig
F
23
the
thrust
washers
2
and
the
operating
levers
3
Secure
the
cross
shafts
with
the
retaining
rings
5
and
lock
the
operating
levers
to
the
shafts
with
the
pins
4
Locate
the
rear
extension
housing
on
the
gearbox
case
and
tighten
the
bolts
to
a
torque
reading
of
2
8
4
4
kgm
20
32
Ib
ft
Insert
the
speedometer
drive
pinion
and
retain
it
with
the
set
bolt
and
lock
plate
Check
the
backlash
of
all
the
gears
using
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
F
24
The
backlash
should
be
between
0
05
0
20
mm
0
002
0
008
in
Fit
the
gearbox
front
cover
and
tighten
the
fixing
bolts
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
I
1
7
kgm
8
0
12
3
lb
ft
taking
care
not
to
damage
the
oil
seal
Fit
the
clutch
release
bearing
and
with
drawallever
Fig
F
25
Replace
the
bottom
cover
and
tighten
the
bolts
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
I
1
7
kgm
8
0
12
31b
ft
THREE
SPEED
GEARBOX
Installation
Installation
of
the
gearbox
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
noting
the
following
points
Fit
the
gearbox
with
I
7
litre
0
45
US
gall
0
37
Imp
gall
of
MP
90
gear
oil
Adjust
the
clutch
slave
cylinder
push
rod
as
described
in
the
section
CLUTCH
to
provide
a
free
play
of
2
2
mm
0
087in
at
the
withdrawal
lever
55
factory
parts
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
REAR
SUSPENSION
ARM
Removal
and
Installation
Saloon
I
J
ad
up
the
car
at
the
rear
and
support
it
on
stands
2
Remove
the
road
wheel
and
brake
drum
as
described
in
the
section
BRAKES
3
Disconnect
the
drive
shaft
from
the
axle
shaft
4
Disconnect
the
handbrake
cable
from
the
equalizer
bracket
and
the
wheel
cylinder
lever
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
brake
line
by
removing
the
lock
spring
and
then
withdrawing
through
the
connector
Plug
the
end
of
the
brake
line
to
avoid
loss
of
fluid
and
ingress
of
dirt
5
Remove
the
wheel
bearing
locknut
Fig
H
9
the
rear
axle
shaft
wheel
bearings
and
oil
seal
Remove
the
rear
brake
assembly
from
the
suspension
ann
See
section
BRAKES
6
Jack
up
the
suspension
arm
to
relieve
the
tension
on
the
shock
absorber
and
disconnect
the
shock
absorber
from
the
lower
mounting
Lower
the
jack
gradually
and
remove
the
coil
spring
seat
and
bump
rubber
7
Remove
the
bolts
securing
the
suspension
arm
to
the
suspension
member
Fig
H
IO
and
withdraw
the
suspension
arm
The
rubber
bushes
can
be
drawn
out
of
the
suspension
arm
if
necessary
using
the
special
tool
ST
38280000
Fig
H
Il
O1eck
the
suspension
arm
for
distortion
or
cracks
and
inspect
the
rubber
bushes
for
signs
of
wear
or
damage
Renew
any
part
which
is
unsatisfactory
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Tighten
all
the
suspension
arm
mounting
bolts
with
the
weight
of
the
vehicle
resting
on
the
rear
wheels
The
self
locking
nuts
must
be
renewed
at
each
overhaul
REAR
AXLE
SHAFTS
BEARINGS
AND
SEALS
Saloon
Removal
and
Dismantling
I
Raise
the
vehicle
at
the
rear
and
place
stands
under
the
body
member
2
Remove
the
road
wheel
and
brake
drum
3
Disconnect
the
drive
shaft
from
the
axle
shaft
and
remove
the
wheel
bearing
locknut
The
special
wrench
ST
38060001
can
be
used
to
hold
the
flange
as
shownin
Fig
H
12
4
Withdraw
the
axle
shaft
assembly
as
shown
in
Fig
H
13
using
the
special
tool
ST
07640000
and
sliding
hammer
ST
36230000
Remove
the
rear
axle
drive
flange
5
Use
a
suitable
drift
or
special
tool
ST
37750000
See
Fig
H
14
to
drive
out
the
inner
bearing
and
oil
seal
F
6
Remove
the
grease
retainer
and
withdraw
the
outer
bearing
with
a
conventional
puller
DO
NOT
re
use
this
outer
bearing
REAR
AXLE
SHAFTS
BEARINGS
AND
SEALS
Saloon
Assembly
and
Installation
Oleck
the
axle
shaft
for
straightness
make
sure
that
it
is
not
cracked
or
damaged
in
any
way
00
NOT
heat
the
shaft
if
attempting
to
re
straighten
Make
sure
that
the
lip
of
the
oil
seal
is
not
damaged
or
distorted
Check
the
bearing
for
excessive
wear
and
damage
Oean
the
wheel
bearings
the
oil
seal
and
the
inside
of
the
axle
housing
When
installing
the
wheel
bearings
the
sealed
side
of
the
outer
bearing
should
face
the
wheel
and
the
sealed
side
of
the
inner
bearing
should
face
the
differential
See
Fig
H
IS
Pressure
must
be
applied
to
the
inner
race
when
fitting
When
replacing
the
suspension
arm
check
that
the
distance
piece
is
0
05
mm
0
002
in
shorter
than
the
length
of
the
housing
dimension
LI
See
Fig
H
16
The
distance
piece
and
axle
housing
code
markings
must
coincide
The
wheel
bearing
grease
must
be
replaced
every
50
000
km
30
000
miles
Pack
the
wheel
bearings
with
grease
at
the
positions
shown
in
Fig
H
IS
and
coat
the
lip
of
the
oil
seal
Renew
the
locknut
and
oil
seal
at
each
overhaul
Wheel
bearing
adjustment
Tighten
the
locknut
to
the
specified
torque
reading
of
25
33
kgm
181
239
lb
ft
and
check
that
the
rear
axle
shaft
end
play
does
not
exceed
0
15
mm
0
006
in
with
a
turning
torque
of
less
than
7
kg
em
6
11b
in
for
the
1400
and
1600cc
models
510
series
or
4
5
kg
em
3
91b
in
for
the
1800cc
610
series
If
the
correct
end
play
or
turning
torque
cannot
be
obtained
it
will
be
necessary
to
change
the
distance
piece
See
above
DRIVE
SHAFTS
Removal
and
Dismantlill8
Disconnect
the
end
flanges
and
remove
the
shaft
See
Fig
H
17
The
drive
shaft
should
only
be
dismantled
to
lubricate
the
splines
This
operation
will
only
be
necessary
every
two
years
or
50
000
km
30
000
miles
Remove
the
universal
joint
spider
at
the
differential
side
Refer
to
the
propeller
shaft
section
Remove
the
snap
ring
securiilg
the
sleeve
yoke
plug
and
take
out
the
plug
Compress
the
drive
shaft
and
remove
the
snap
ring
and
stopper
Fig
H
17
Disconnect
the
boot
and
split
the
shaft
Make
sure
that
the
balls
and
spacers
are
retained
DRIVE
SHAFTS
Inspection
and
Assembly
The
drive
shaft
should
be
replaced
as
an
assembly
if
any
part
is
found
to
be
defective
Check
the
shaft
for
straightness
damage
or
wear
Old
79
the
castle
nut
and
detach
the
tie
rod
from
the
knuckle
arm
5
Remove
the
tension
rod
securing
nuts
Fig
J
7
remove
the
bolts
and
withdraw
the
tension
rod
Withdraw
the
nut
shown
arrowed
in
FigJ
8
and
remove
the
stabilizer
6
Support
the
engine
with
suitable
lifting
tackle
so
that
the
engine
mounting
bolts
can
be
removed
and
the
suspension
crossmember
detached
from
the
engine
FigJ
9
7
Place
ajack
under
the
crossmember
Remove
the
bolts
indicated
in
Fig
J
IO
and
separate
the
crossmember
from
the
body
8
Remove
the
strut
assembly
upper
attachment
self
locking
nuts
at
both
sides
Fig
J
ll
and
lower
the
front
suspension
assembly
to
remove
it
from
the
vehicle
FRONT
AXLE
AND
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
Installation
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
noting
the
following
points
Make
sure
that
all
rubber
parts
are
free
from
wear
and
deterioration
Any
part
of
the
suspension
assembly
which
has
been
damaged
or
distorted
must
be
replaced
The
front
wheel
alignment
should
be
checked
after
completing
the
installation
a
brief
description
is
given
at
the
end
of
this
section
Camber
and
castor
angles
are
preset
and
cannot
be
adjusted
SPRING
AND
STRUf
ASSEMBLY
Removal
and
Installation
The
strut
assembly
consists
of
the
outer
casing
piston
rod
piston
rod
guide
and
cylinder
etc
An
exploded
view
of
the
components
is
given
in
Fig
J
12
The
inner
components
must
be
replaced
as
a
complete
assembly
Replacement
and
overhaul
procedures
for
the
inner
components
together
with
the
removal
of
the
front
springs
should
only
be
carried
out
by
a
specialist
Datsun
workshop
The
strut
assembly
can
be
removed
prior
to
dismantling
by
following
the
procedures
outlined
below
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
support
it
on
stands
2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
strut
assembly
bracket
as
previously
described
under
the
heading
FRONT
AXLE
and
SUSPENSION
ASSEMBLY
Removal
3
Remove
the
stabilizer
bar
and
tension
rod
from
the
trans
verse
links
Loosen
and
remove
the
knuckle
arm
fixing
bolts
Fig
J
9
And
separate
the
strut
assembly
from
the
ball
joints
4
Remove
the
strut
assembly
upper
attachment
self
locking
nuts
Fig
J
11
and
withdraw
the
strut
assembly
from
the
body
Fig
J
13
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Ensure
that
the
bolts
are
tightened
to
the
specified
torque
readings
given
under
TIGHTENING
TORQUES
SPRING
AND
STRUT
ASSEMBLY
Dismantling
and
Assembly
Care
must
be
taken
when
dismantling
the
assembly
to
ensure
that
aU
parts
are
maintained
in
a
clean
condition
Clamp
the
suspension
strut
assembly
in
a
vice
and
fit
the
special
attachment
ST
2770000
I
to
the
lower
end
of
the
strut
Prise
off
the
dust
cover
snap
ring
Use
the
coil
spring
compressor
ST
35650001
to
slightly
compress
the
spring
Remove
the
self
locking
nut
and
take
off
the
mounting
insulator
thrust
bearing
spring
seat
and
bump
rubber
Slacken
the
spring
compressor
and
remove
the
spring
Push
down
the
shock
absorber
piston
until
it
bottoms
and
remove
the
gland
packing
with
the
special
tool
ST
35500001
Fig
J
14
Remove
the
O
ring
from
the
piston
rod
guide
and
lift
out
the
piston
rod
and
cy
linder
assembly
00
NOT
separate
the
piston
and
cylinder
which
are
serviced
as
a
complete
assembly
Drain
all
fluid
from
the
suspension
unit
and
shock
absorber
assembly
Wash
all
parts
thoroughly
not
rubber
parts
in
petrol
or
a
suitable
solvent
The
gland
packing
and
0
ring
must
be
renewed
at
each
overhaul
Always
refill
with
the
correct
grade
of
fresh
oil
in
accordance
with
the
information
in
the
table
below
ATSUGI
KAYABA
Part
No
54302
UO
100
UOl10
325
cc
332
cc
54302
3
U0500
1
54302
N
1200
325
cc
300
cc
The
oil
quantity
is
extremely
critical
as
it
will
affect
the
damping
power
of
the
shock
absorber
To
assemble
fit
the
rubber
O
ring
on
the
top
of
the
piston
rod
and
refit
the
gland
packing
Take
care
that
the
oil
seal
does
not
become
damaged
during
the
latter
operation
Lift
the
piston
rod
up
by
approximately
90
mm
3
5
in
before
tightening
the
gland
packing
to
facilitate
bleeding
then
tighten
the
packing
to
a
torque
reading
of
7
13
kgm
51
94Jb
ft
Bleed
the
shock
absorber
by
pumping
the
piston
rod
up
and
down
until
the
pressure
is
the
same
in
both
directions
Position
the
coil
spring
bump
rubber
spring
seat
and
dust
cover
on
the
top
of
the
piston
rod
The
piston
rod
must
be
in
the
fully
extended
position
Compress
the
spring
fit
the
strut
mounting
insulator
and
bearing
assembly
Tighten
the
self
locking
nut
to
a
torque
reading
of
6
7
5
kgm
43
541b
ft
SPRING
AND
STRUT
ASSEMBLY
Installation
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
Thoroughly
grease
the
parts
marked
in
Fig
J
15
Tighten
the
fixing
bolts
to
the
torque
readings
given
in
TIGHfENING
TORQUES
TRANSVERSE
LINK
AND
LOWER
BALL
JOINT
Removal
The
transverse
link
with
rubber
bushing
is
connected
to
the
suspension
crosSlTIember
by
a
mounting
bolt
as
shown
in
Fig
J
11
and
to
the
strut
assembly
via
the
lower
ball
joint
87
SteerIng
DEsn
IPTION
S
i
EERlNG
MaintenaDce
STEERING
WHEEL
AND
STEERING
GEAR
Removal
and
Installation
STEERING
GEAR
Dismantling
STEERING
GEAR
Inspection
and
Adjustment
DESCRIPTION
A
worm
and
recirculating
ball
type
steering
system
is
fitted
to
the
vehicle
the
component
parts
of
the
steering
gear
are
shown
in
Fig
K
I
The
steering
linkage
consists
of
the
centre
tie
rod
pitman
ann
idler
arm
outer
tie
rods
and
the
knuckle
arms
as
shown
in
Fig
K
2
A
collapsible
steering
column
assembly
can
be
fitted
to
the
vehicle
to
protect
the
driver
from
injury
in
a
head
on
collision
Details
of
this
type
of
assembly
are
given
under
the
appropriate
heading
STEERING
Maintenance
O1eck
the
oil
level
in
the
steering
box
every
10
000
km
6
000
miles
and
top
up
with
recommended
lubricant
if
necessary
Grease
the
steering
linkage
every
50
000
km
30
OOO
miles
It
will
be
necessary
to
replace
the
plug
in
the
tie
rod
ball
joints
with
a
grease
nipple
for
this
operation
as
previously
described
in
the
section
FRONT
SUSPENSION
Use
a
grease
gun
to
completely
replace
the
old
grease
with
new
grease
making
SUfe
that
the
grease
is
not
forced
from
under
the
cover
clamp
if
a
high
pressure
gun
is
used
STEERING
WHEEL
AND
STEERING
GEAR
Removal
1
Take
out
the
retaining
bolts
and
remove
the
horn
ring
remove
the
steering
wheel
nut
Fig
K
3
and
pull
off
the
steering
wheel
The
special
tool
ST
27180000
should
be
used
if
available
2
Disconnect
the
battery
leads
remove
the
steering
column
shell
covers
and
the
turn
signal
and
lighting
switch
assembly
3
On
vehicles
fitted
with
steering
column
gear
change
assemblies
the
gear
lever
must
be
removed
from
the
control
rod
assembly
Unscrew
the
retaining
boltg
and
disconnect
the
gear
lever
4
Remove
the
bolts
from
the
steering
column
upper
clamp
Fig
K
4
and
the
bolts
holding
the
lower
plate
Fig
K
5
5
If
the
vehicle
is
fitted
with
steering
column
gear
change
remove
the
cotterpin
from
the
trunnion
and
detach
the
gearchange
rod
and
selector
rod
from
the
change
lever
and
selector
lever
STEERING
GEAR
Assembly
and
Adjustment
COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING
COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING
Removal
and
Inspection
COLLAPSIBLE
STEERING
Installation
STEERING
LINKAGE
6
Remove
the
bolts
securing
the
steering
gear
housing
to
the
car
body
Fig
K
6
and
pull
the
steering
gear
towards
the
engine
compartment
Remove
the
gearchange
control
from
the
steering
gear
assembly
as
described
in
the
section
GEARBOX
STEERING
WHEEL
AND
STEERING
GEAR
Installation
Installation
is
a
reversal
of
the
removal
procedure
When
the
installation
has
been
completed
make
sure
that
the
steering
wheel
can
be
turned
smoothly
and
is
correctly
aligned
The
free
travel
of
the
steering
wheel
should
be
between
2S
30mm
0
9B
1
18
in
Tighten
the
steering
wheel
locknut
to
a
torque
reading
of
4
0
5
0
kgm
29
36Ib
ft
and
the
steering
column
upper
clamp
and
plate
bolts
to
a
torque
reading
of
1
3
1
8
kgm
94
1
3
Ib
ft
Ensure
that
the
steering
box
is
topped
up
to
the
correct
level
with
recommended
lubricant
STEERING
GEAR
Dismantling
Remove
the
pitman
arm
retaining
nut
and
pull
out
the
arm
The
special
puller
ST
27140000
should
be
used
if
available
Remove
the
drain
plug
from
the
steering
gear
housing
and
drain
the
oil
Slacken
the
adjusting
screw
nut
and
turn
the
sector
shaft
adjusting
screw
a
few
turns
in
the
anti
clockwise
direction
Remove
the
sector
shaft
cover
retaining
bolts
and
pull
the
sector
shaft
cover
and
sector
shaft
from
the
gear
housing
Fig
K
7
Remove
the
bolts
securing
the
column
jacket
to
the
gear
housing
and
carefully
withdraw
the
main
column
jacket
assembly
from
the
gear
housing
Fig
K
B
NOTE
The
ball
must
not
be
allowed
to
run
to
either
end
of
the
worm
or
the
ends
of
the
ball
guides
will
be
damaged
Pull
the
column
assembly
from
the
column
jacket
Remove
the
sector
shaft
oil
seal
and
take
out
the
rear
bearing
outer
race
from
the
column
jacket
with
a
suitable
puller
Withdraw
the
bearing
inner
races
from
the
front
and
fear
worm
bearings
Remove
the
column
shaft
bearing
91
brake
shoe
is
in
contact
with
the
drum
The
adjuster
must
be
turned
from
the
rear
of
the
backplate
and
the
drum
turned
by
hand
When
the
shoe
contacts
the
drum
turn
the
adjuster
in
the
opposite
direction
until
the
shoe
is
just
clear
and
the
drum
can
be
rotated
freely
by
hand
Depress
the
brake
pedal
and
make
sure
that
the
brakes
operate
correctly
The
adjusters
must
be
released
slightly
if
the
brake
shoe
binds
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Friction
pads
Fig
L
14
The
disc
brakes
are
self
adjusting
but
the
friction
pads
should
be
checked
for
wear
every
5
000
km
3
000
miles
and
replaced
if
the
thickness
of
the
friction
lining
on
any
pad
is
less
than
1
0mm
0
004
in
In
effect
this
means
that
renewal
is
necessary
when
the
total
thickness
of
pad
and
lining
is
less
than
8
4mm
0
24
in
To
replace
the
friction
pads
proceed
as
follows
Siphon
out
some
of
the
fluid
in
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
and
remove
the
road
wheel
Remove
the
anti
rattle
clip
from
the
calliper
plate
Fig
L
lS
Unhook
the
hanger
spring
and
withdraw
the
brake
pads
and
shims
Fig
L
17
It
should
be
noted
that
the
friction
pads
must
be
replaced
as
a
set
and
renewed
at
both
sides
of
the
vehicle
otherwise
the
braking
action
will
be
uneven
Oean
the
calliper
and
pad
at
their
installation
positions
Press
the
pistons
into
the
calliper
bores
so
that
the
new
friction
Pads
can
be
installed
The
pistons
can
be
installed
by
applying
light
pressure
as
shown
in
Fig
L
16
but
care
must
be
taken
to
avoid
pushing
them
too
far
or
the
groove
of
the
piston
will
damage
the
seal
If
the
pistons
are
pushed
down
excessively
it
will
be
necessary
to
dismantle
the
calliper
as
described
under
the
appropriate
heading
Assemble
the
anti
squeal
shims
to
the
friction
pads
with
the
arrow
mark
on
the
shims
pointing
in
the
direction
of
forward
disc
rotation
Refit
the
pads
and
retaining
pins
and
assemble
the
coil
spring
to
the
retaining
pin
furthest
away
from
the
air
bleed
screw
After
installing
the
new
pads
and
shims
depress
the
brake
pedal
several
times
to
reposition
the
pistons
in
the
calliper
O1eck
the
fluid
level
in
the
master
cylinder
reservoir
and
refill
to
the
correct
level
FRONT
DISC
BRAKE
Removal
and
Dismantling
1
Jack
up
the
front
of
the
vehicle
remove
the
road
wheel
and
take
out
the
friction
pads
2
Disconnect
the
brake
hose
from
the
brake
tube
and
plug
the
opened
end
to
prevent
the
loss
of
fluid
3
Remove
the
bolts
securing
the
brake
calliper
to
the
knuckle
flange
and
remove
the
calliper
assembly
Fig
L
IS
4
Remove
the
hub
nut
and
withdraw
the
hub
and
disc
To
dismantle
the
calliper
remove
the
anti
rattle
clip
and
withdraw
the
brake
pads
Remove
the
tension
springs
and
pull
the
cylinder
out
of
the
calliper
Blow
out
the
piston
with
com
pressed
air
applied
at
the
brake
hose
connection
Oean
the
components
in
brake
fluid
and
examine
them
for
signs
of
wear
or
damage
The
cylinder
walls
can
be
carefully
polished
with
fine
emery
cloth
if
they
are
rusted
or
contaminated
If
the
parts
are
excessively
corroded
they
should
be
renewed
Replace
the
pistons
if
they
are
unevenly
worn
damaged
or
rusted
The
sliding
surface
of
the
piston
is
plated
and
no
attempt
should
be
made
to
use
emery
cloth
or
similar
abrasives
for
cleaning
purposes
Check
the
thickness
of
the
friction
pads
as
previously
described
and
replace
them
if
necessary
Renew
the
piston
seals
and
the
dust
covers
O1eck
the
brake
disc
for
scoring
and
out
of
round
The
standard
disc
thickness
is
10
Omm
0
0394
in
and
must
not
be
reground
below
8
4mm
0
3307
in
Check
the
disc
run
out
with
a
dial
gauge
as
shown
in
Fig
L
19
Position
the
gauge
near
the
outer
diameter
and
check
that
the
run
out
does
not
exceed
0
06mm
0
0024
in
FRONT
BRAKE
DISC
Assembly
and
Installation
Rinse
the
cylinder
bore
with
brake
fluid
and
fit
the
piston
seal
into
the
cylinder
groove
Fig
L
20
Fit
the
wiper
seal
and
lightly
grease
the
bore
of
the
cylinder
Clean
the
brake
disc
and
fit
it
to
the
hub
Install
the
hub
to
the
knuckle
spindle
Carefully
insert
the
piston
into
the
cylinder
until
the
face
of
the
piston
is
almost
flush
with
the
wiper
seal
retainer
The
relieved
part
of
the
piston
should
face
the
piston
pin
Fit
the
cylinder
to
the
calliper
plate
and
secure
in
position
with
the
two
torsion
springs
Assemble
the
hold
down
pin
the
spring
washer
and
the
nut
to
the
support
bracket
Secure
the
nut
with
a
cotter
pin
Assemble
the
calliper
to
the
mounting
bracket
using
the
pivot
pin
washer
spring
washer
and
nut
Tighten
the
nut
and
secure
with
a
cotter
pin
Hook
the
hold
down
bracket
to
the
top
of
the
mounting
bracket
and
turn
the
calliper
plate
to
make
sure
that
it
can
slide
smoothly
Fit
the
calliper
assembly
to
the
knuckle
flange
Fit
a
shim
to
the
inner
pad
and
insert
the
pad
Draw
the
calliper
towards
the
chassis
and
insert
the
lower
cuts
on
the
pad
into
the
mounting
bracket
and
push
the
pad
in
until
it
contacts
the
piston
Move
the
calliper
away
from
the
chassis
and
insert
the
upper
cuts
Centre
the
indentation
of
the
outer
pad
in
the
calliper
plate
Fit
the
anti
rattle
clip
Fig
L
14
103