1967 FIAT 500 drive

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement

4
53 2 1
7
6
FIG 11 :6 Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
Key to Fig 11:6 1 Voltage regulator adjusting spring
2 Current regulator adjusting spring 3 Cutout adjusting
spring 4 Voltage regulator adjustment arm 5 Current
regulator adjustment arm 6 Cutout adjustment blade spring
7 Soldering of cutout shunt and series winding
FIG 11:7 Wiring diagram for checking the cutout
closing voltage
Key to Fig 1 1 : 7 GR Regulator GN 1.12.16 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.12.1 6.3 S V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) L 12 V, 3 to 5 W bulb
FIG 11:8 Wiring diagram for checking the reverse
current of cutout
Key to Fig 11:8 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT DSV 90.1 2.1 6.3 S B Battery, 50 Ah, fully charged
A Ammeter, asymmetrical scale 10-0-15 A V Voltmeter,
20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
116spring 13. Should any defect be found then the pinion
assembly must be renewed as one complete unit. After
examining to ensure that there are no defects thoroughly
clean using petrol.
Reassembling and refitting the starter:
In both cases this is a simple reversal of the dismantling
procedure. Grease t h e drive splines and the engagement
lever groove in the sleeve.
11:5 The control box:
Description:
The generator regulator fitted to the new 500 model
consists of three separate
units; voltage regulator,
current regulator, cut-out relay (see FIG 11 :6).
The voltage regulator and current regulator relays
comprise a U-shaped body one of whose arms is bent
to form a flange, whilst the other adjustment arm pro-
vides a stop for the hinge spring. The U-shaped body is
secured to the frame by the core threaded shank and
carries, on the flanged end, an armature supported by a
hinge spring which comprises a steel leaf and bi-metal
leaf overimposed in the current regulator and bi-metal
leaf in the voltage regulator. The armature carries the
movable contact.
Fixed contacts of both voltage and current regulators
are mounted on t w o blade springs which are secured to a
single bracket rivetted to the U-shaped adjustment arm.
The design of the t w o fixed contacts carrier blade springs
is such as to permit the adjustment of the contact
position by suitably bending the blade springs. The cut-
out is similar in design to the other two relays as shown
in FIG 11:6. Again the hinge spring is bi-metallic as in
the voltage regulator.
All the armatures are provided w i t h blade springs, so
that the tension may be adjusted to the required setting
value. This adjustment is obtained by bending the
adjustment arms.
The voltage regulator coil comprises a fine wire wind-
ing w i t h a great number of turns, shunt connected to the
generator.
The cut-out coil comprises a fine wire winding with a
great number of turns shunt connected to the generator,
and of a winding comprising a few turns of heavy gauge
wire, which is connected in series w i t h the generator
charge circuit (cut-out series winding).
The current regulator coil comprises a few turns of
heavy gauge wire which is series connected with the
generator charge circuit.
The generator regulator base has three terminals to
which the various cables are connected.
No. 51 — connection to generator positive terminal.
No. 67 — connection to generator field winding.
No. 30 — connection to electrical accessories.
The regulator cover is secured to the base w i t h a
rubber gasket placed in between which seals the unit
against the ingress of moisture or dust.
A regulation resistor is fitted under the base and is
secured to the voltage regulator and current regulator
relay core threaded shanks.

WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR ASSY
WIPER MOTOR SCREWS
WIPER MOTOR BRACKET
FIG 11:15 Arrangement of windshield wiper unit on
vehicle
B M INT F
SC12 V
31
D
A
SWITCH PARKING
0 ON
SWITCH LEVER POSITIONS
FIG 11:16 Windshield wiper wiring diagram
Key to Fig 11 :16 A Series winding B Shunt winding
D Switch M Motor S Additional winding F INT
C =Terminals
120signal lamp pairs. The flasher unit connections are in
FIG 11:14 and the unit is of the hot wire type.
Faulty operation of flashers:
In cases of trouble check the bulb for broken filaments.
Refer to the wiring diagrams in Technical Data and check
all flasher circuit cables and connections. Check the
appropriate fuse. Switch on the ignition and check w i t h
a voltmeter between flasher unit positive terminal and
earth to see if battery voltage is present. Connect together
flasher unit positive terminal and L and operate the
direction indicator switch. If the flasher lamps now light,
the flasher unit is defective and must be renewed. It is not
possible to dismantle and repair a faulty flasher unit.
Before removing make a note of the connections so that
they will be replaced correctly when the new unit is being
installed.
Before making the connections it is advisable to check
the circuits to ensure that the new flasher unit is not
damaged by wrong connection. Test by joining the
cables normally connected to the unit and operate the
switch. If the connections are wrong the appropriate
fuse will blow but no damage will be done to the flasher
unit.
Never insert terminal L directly to earth without having
first connected in series the bulbs specified, otherwise
the flasher unit will be damaged. For the same reason
terminal L must never be shorted to ground nor must there
by any short circuits in any of the leads from the L
terminal to the bulbs. The flasher unit must never receive
blows of any kind since it is a very delicate component
and easily damaged.
11:8 Windscreen wipers
Description:
The windscreen wiper assembly comprises a motor
unit that drives t w o wiper blades through a reduction
gearing and mechanical linkage. The reduction gear
includes a worm screw on the motor armature shaft and a
helical pinion. The motor, left blade pivot and linkages
are mounted on a sheet metal bracket, whilst the right
blade pivot is connected to the main drive link. When
assembled to the vehicle the right blade pivot is fixed
directly onto the body. The unit is provided w i t h an
automatic parking device which ensures that the blades
return to their correct park position. The w
indscreen wiper
is- controlled by a lever switch with three separate
positions on earlier models or a simple on-off switch on
later models.
Maintenance:
Maintenance is confined to the changing of the wiper
blades when they have deteriorated and occasional
lubricating of the mechanical linkage.
Wiper unit faulty operation :
1 It is important that the wiper unit assembly is correctly
fitted to the body otherwise distortion of the wiper
mounting bracket can occur which will cause
abnormal stresses on the pivot and linkages resulting
in irregular and difficult blade sweep.
2 If the blades keep on sweeping at a reduced speed
although the switch lever has been pressed to the

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty

(h) Starter motor rough or noisy
1 Mounting bolts loose
2 Damaged pinion or flywheel gear teeth
( i ) Lamps inoperative or erratic
1 Battery low, bulbs burned out
2 Faulty earthing of lamps or battery
3 Lighting switch faulty, loose or broken wiring
connections
F500
125
(j) Wiper motor sluggish, taking high current
1 Faulty armature
2 Bearings out of alignment
3 Commutator dirty or short-circuited
(k) Wiper motor operates but does not drive
arms
1 Gearbox components worn

FIG 12:1 Detail of right door (early type). Upper arrow
points to vent wing lock handle. Lower arrow points to
window regulator handle
FIG 1 2 : 2 Sedan right side door (later type). Front-hinged.
Door latch is of the triple acting type. Later (pull-out) type
interior lock handles have an escutcheon which is levered
out by means of t w o screwdrivers to expose the handle
pivot pin and spring
Cleaning imitation leather:
To keep the imitation leather clean wash in luke warm
water and a neutral soap applied with a soft cloth. Wipe
clean with a clean moistened cloth with no trace of soap
and finally rub with a clean dry cloth until the original
lustre is restored.
128
Chrome plated parts:
To ensure long life from the chrome plated parts these
should be periodically washed using a cloth dampened
with petrol and dried with a soft cloth. Rub with a cloth
moistened in clean oil especially around the edges of the
components and finally rub using a clean dry cloth until
all traces of oil have been apparently removed.
Glass panels:
The glass panels must be cleaned w i t h a chamois
leather or rag. Take care that no abrasive material is
allowed to be rubbed onto the glass otherwise it will be
scratched.
12:3 Door trim and accessories
The rear-hinged doors have welded upper and lower
hinge halves being joined by a fulcrum pin to the other
half of the hinge which is welded onto the body. Upon
reassembly of a hinge the fulcrum pins must be fitted with
the ball head uppermost. With front-hinged doors the
hinge is bolted to the body pillar.
Check strap (earlier models):
To limit the door opening, a rubber check strap is fixed
by four self-tapping screws of which two are located on
the door and t w o on the body. When a check strap is being
fitted the following points should be noted:
1 Always use sealing compound on the check strap
mounting holes to ensure a moisture t i g h t j o i n t .
2 Insert the screws in the plates and in the strap.
3 Always place a washer on each screw between the
body and the check strap, and also the door and check
strap. Tighten the screws fully.
Weather strip:
A one-piece moulded weather strip is fitted to the door
aperture and fixed by a special adhesive. Should the
weather strip become detached or a new one requiring to
be fitted proceed as follows:
1 Remove the old weather strip as necessary and thor-
oughly clean the door opening flange with petrol,
remove any rust spots and touch in the paint work.
2 Clean the new weather strips of their preservative or
the original from road dirt using petrol and thoroughly
wipe
clean.
3 Apply a coat of adhesive using a brush to the side to be
attached to the body. Allow to dry for the recom-
mended period of time and position the weather strip
on the door opening flange ensuring that it is not
distorted. The joint should be on the bottom side of
the rear end of the door opening. Apply a heavy
pressure on the weather strip starting from the centre
and working towards the ends.
Two rubber lining strips are located on the door flange
and these should be attached using the same procedure
detailed above.
Ensure that the bonding of the rubber weather strips
to both the door opening flange and the door panel is
thoroughly dry before the door is closed, otherwise this
could be the cause of subsequent water ingress.

Inner panels:
Imitation leather-lined masonite trim panels are fitted
to all versions of the new 500' models. The panels are
secured in the housing below the door window by means
of four stiff clips located at the top and seven spring clips
located at the bottom equally spaced around the panel
border. The fasteners are located in holes in the door
framework inner flange. The door framework has a plate
which should be bent downwards onto the trim panel
once it has been installed. This will ensure correct seating
of the trim panel in the door housing.
When the door trim panel is being reassembled ensure
that the tarred felt pad is cemented correctly on the door
inner flange so that any water that may seep in through to
the door interior from the window rubber weather strips
may be kept away from the trim panel which would
otherwise cause distortion and rapid deterioration.
12:4 Door handles and locks
The doors are provided with locks which are operated
by handles either from inside or outside the vehicle.
Removal of the lock is a straightforward operation but
upon reassembly the following procedure should be
followed:
1 Mount the handle assembly from the outside and
insert the washer onto the stud. Screw in the nut several
turns to allow correct handle-to-lock mating on final
fitting.
2 Arrange the locking handle dog so that it is horizontally
positioned and tighten the mounting nut.
3 Mount the lock to the door panel and secure w i t h three
screws and washers.
4 Fit the plate w i t h the t w o rubber guide blocks fastening
by the t w o screws.
Striker plates are fitted with shim adjustment to the
door pillars and are secured by three screws.
12:5 Removing window regulator and door glass
Window regulator:
Description:
The window regulator unit is of the lever and gear
control type which transmits crank movement to the
lifting lever using high ratio gears. When the operating
handle is rotated it rotates a pinion mounted on its shaft
which is in mesh w i t h a gear on the hub of which is
mounted a second pinion that meshes with the lever
toothed sector (refer to FIG 1 2 : 3) . At the end of the lever
a pin fitting locates in a guide rail mounted on the
bottom of the glass. When the crank is rotated in one or
other direction the glass is either lifted or lowered.
Regulator removal:
1 Depress the door lining panel so that the crank key may
be located. Remove the key and the crank handle.
2 Using a wide blade screwdriver prise off the trim panel
by inserting the blade between the panel and the door
frame taking care not to scratch the door paint.
3 Remove the intermediate protection lining.
F500129
FIG 12:3 Lefthand side door window regulator, viewed
from car interior
FIG 12:4 Location of window regulator in lefthand side
door panel housing
4 Release the screws securing the window regulator
to the door. Carefully tilt the regulator so as to dis-
engage the lever pin from the guide on the bottom of
the glass and lift away the regulator assembly.
Regulator reassembly:
To ensure satisfactory regulator operation carefully
lubricate the gears and the lever pin guide and also
ensure that the glass slides freely in its channels. To

cushion and back rest. A number of rubber straps are
hooked across the frame under the cushion and in a
sheath covering on the seat back.
The bottom of the front seat frame ends are provided
with sliding guides which run in guide rails attached to
the floor. The sliding guides are pivoted on the frame
tubes to allow for forward tilting of the seats giving better
access to the rear compartment. Two rubber pads
provide cushioning of the seat frame on the guide rails
as shown in FIG 12:11. The control lever for seat
adjustment is fitted in the frame righthand tube to permit
unlocking of the seats so that they may be adjusted to
individual drivers requirements.
Rear seats (Sedan):
The rear seat comprises of a foam rubber cushion and
back. The seat back is cemented to the rear floor and
body shell bulkhead. The rear seat lining is of fabric and
imitation leather. The seat lining is held in place by four
self-tapping screws, t w o of which secure the floor below
the back window and two the lining at the base of t h e
back rest. Included with the seat assembly is a masonite
floor which is fitted below the rear window.
Rear Seat (Station Wagon):
The rear seat back rest is pivoted at the base of its
frame so that it can be folded down to form a load plat-
form surface. In the upright position it is retained in place
by t w o brackets mounted on either side of the body below
the side
windows.
12:14 Interior heater
Description:
Interior heating is accomplished by recirculation of
warm air from the engine cooling system through engine
cowling. Referring to FIG 12:18 a hose conveys warmed
air from the engine cowling to the centre tunnel floor
where warm air flows out through two slots being cut on
the windshield delivery hoses. Air admission can be
adjusted by turning the control lever to the right which
operates the tunnel throttle valve at the rear seat.
The heating system may be fitted with a booster which
comprises a casing on the front exhaust pipe being
connected to the engine cowling and the warmed air
passage tunnel. Warm air flowing to the car interior is
heated to higher temperature than that from the standard
version of heater (see FIG 12:19).
Windshield demisting:
As will be seen from FIG 12:18, t w o air hoses w i t h
throttle valves for airflow control are relayed from a casing
F500135
FIG 12:19 Diagram of booster
Key to Fig 12:19 1 Thermostat controlling shutter
2 Car interior heater booster 3 Hand control unit
in front of the centre of the floor tunnel. Flexible hoses
are connected to two air diffusers which are located on
the instrument panel and parallel to the windshield glass.
When the throttle valves 5 (see FIG 12:18) are operated
through the two control knobs, warmed air is directed
onto the windshield glass so preventing misting, frosting
or icing in adverse weather conditions.
Inspection:
Ensure that t h e lever, the lever spring and butterfly
valve hinge are not distorted. Check that the ducting to
the tunnel as well as the upper and lower hoses are air-
tight which if not, should be renewed.