1961 FIAT 500 ESP

*Dimension to be obtained by
adjusting the throwout lever.
FIG 5:1 Clutch assembly longitudinal section (new
500, 500D sedan and early station wagon)
5 : 2 Removal and installation
To remove the clutch unit from the vehicle proceed as
follows:
1 Remove the engine (Chapter 1) or separate the gear-
box from the engine as described in Chapter 6.
2 Remove the six screws and washers that secure the
clutch cover to the flywheel and gently ease the cover
assembly from the location dowels in the flywheel and
lift away. This will also free the driven plate.
3 Carefully clean the driven plate and clutch cover using a
compressed air jet.
4 To refit the clutch cover assembly to the flywheel
ensure that the driven plate is assembled the correct
way round as shown in FIG 5 :1 and place the cover
onto the flywheel using the locating dowels.
5 To ensure that the driven plate is correctly centred use
Fiat pilot A.62023 (see FIG 5 : 5) or a suitably sized
mandrel. Tighten the clutch mounting screws diagonally
a turn at a time to ensure correct location of the cover
onto the flywheel face. Finally, tighten to a torque
wrench setting of 5.8 to 7.2 Ib ft.
5 :3 Dismantling and inspection of clutch cover
New 500, 500D sedan and early 500 station wagon :
To dismantle the clutch cover assembly proceed as
follows:
60
To assemble the clutch cover assembly proceed as
follows:
1 Place the pressure plate complete with carrier ring bolts
and springs on Fiat fixture 62038 (see FIG 5 : 2).
2 Fit the six pressure springs in their respective seats on
the pressure plate. Insert the cups on the springs and
replace the cover.
3 Compress the clutch cover, continually checking that
the withdrawal lever supporting bolts are properly
guided into their holes in the cover. Onto the bolts, fit
the three withdrawal levers w i t h their relevant nuts and
washers.
4 Replace the carrier ring on the levers and hook up the
retaining springs. 5 :4 Assembly and adjustment
N e w 500 sedan1 Place the clutch cover assembly on Fiat fixture A.62038
as shown in FIG 5 :6 and lock the cover using the three
T-handles provided.
2 Release the w i thdrawal lever carrier ring springs and lift
away the ring.
3 Unscrew the withdrawal lever fixing nuts on the bolts
and lift out the levers and washers. Gradually slacken
the three T-handles so relieving the pressure of the
clutch springs. Remove the clutch cover, springs and
lever mounting bolts. Carefully mark all the components
to ensure that they are assembled correctly so ensuring
that correct balance of the clutch unit is obtained.
Inspection:
Thoroughly clean all parts using a compressed air jet
and proceed as follows:
1 Thoroughly check the springs for signs of overheating
causing loss of tension and compare the effective length
of the springs which when fitted new should have a
length of .9646 inch under a load of not less than 43 Ib.
If the spring length is less t h a n t h e recommended
dimension fit a complete new set of springs.
2 The length of the withdrawal lever carrier ring retaining
springs should be checked which under a normal clutch
load should be .7677 inch whilst the length'of the
expanded spring under a load of 4.85 ± .44 Ib should
be 1.1811 inch. If the springs show sign of heating or
weakening a new set should be fitted.
3 Check the withdrawa l levers and their bolts for exces-
sive wear and fit new parts as necessary.
4 Inspect the pressure plate for an excessively ridged sur-
face or signs of cracking. If the ridges are not too severe
the face may be refaced by turning on a centre lathe.
Also inspect the flywheel friction surface which may
also be refaced providing that the ridges are not too
severe.
5 Whenever the clutch driven plate linings are worn a new
driven plate should be fitted.
6 Inspect the clutch shaft splines and these should not
have a lengthwise clearance in excess of .0039 inch and
side clearance of .0118 inch w i t h respect to the driven
plate hub. Ensure that the driven plate slides easily on
the clutch shaft protruding from the rear of the gearbox
differential unit as any plate drag may be the cause of
d i f f i c u l t y in gear selection.

FIG 5:10 Clutch throw-out mechanism
Key to Fig 5:10 1 Clutch throw-out yoke
2 Yoke return spring 3 Rod nut and counternut
4 Adjustable rod 5 Clutch throw-out
onto this shaft the outer operating lever is attached by
means of a key.
A return spring connected to the outer operating lever
is anchored onto the gearbox casing. When the clutch is in
its normal position the spring keeps the central thrust
carbon ring away from the withdrawal levers carrier ring.
The carbon ring is pressed against the carrier ring by the
throw-out ring which is connected to the forked lever as
shown in FIG 5 : 8 .
The clutch pedal must have free travel of 1"3/8 to 1"9/16 inch.
Should any adjustment be necessary release the locknut
from the adjustable tie rod and adjust the position of the
tie rod until the correct adjustment is obtained. Tighten the
locknut.
500F. L and later station wagon:
The free travel of the clutch pedal should be 19/32 to
1"3/16 inch which corresponds to a clearance of .059 inch
between the throw-out sleeve and the ring (see FIG 5 : 7).
Should any correction be necessary release the adjust-
able rod locknut (see FIG 5:10), and reposition the
adjustable rod using the rod nut until the recommended
clutch pedal travel is obtained. Retighten the locknut.
5 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Drag or spin
1 Oil or grease on driven plate lining
64
(g) Driven plate fracture
1 Check 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Drag and distortion due to hanging gearbox in plate hub (f) Tick or knock
1 Worn first motion shaft spigot or bearings
2 Badly worn splines in driven plate hub
3 Release plate out of line
4 Faulty Bendix drive on starter motor
5 Loose flywheel
(e) Rattle
1 Check 3 in (c)
2 Worn release mechanism
3 Excessive backlash in transmission
4 Wear in transmission bearings
5 Release bearing loose on fork (d) Judder
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Pressure plate not parallel with flywheel face
3 Contact area of driven plate linings not evenly distribu-
ted
4 Bent first-motion shaft
5 Buckled driven plate
6 Faulty power unit mountings
7 Worn suspension mountings
8 Weak rear springs
9 Loose drive shafts (c) Slip
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Check 2 in (b)
3 Weak pressure springs or diaphragm spring (b) Fierceness or snatch
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Worn clutch linings 2 Misalignment between engine and gearbox first motion
shaft
3 Driven plate hub binding on first motion shaft splines
4 Binding of first motion shaft spigot bearing
5 Distorted clutch plate
6 Warped or damaged pressure plate or clutch cover
7 Broken driven plate linings
8 Dirt or foreign matter in clutch

3 Check the layshaft and the primary shaft between
centres and using a dial gauge ensure that there is no
distortion. The out of true reading for bearing seats
should be less than .0008 inch. Inspect the splines and
ensure that the side and outerfaces are not indented.
Replace if there are signs of wear. Also inspect the
reverse shaft to ensure that it is perfectly smooth and
not showing signs of pitting or partial seizure.
4 Carefully inspect all gear teeth for signs of excessive
wear or damage. The contact faces must be smooth and
show no signs of indentation marks. Also check that
the backlash between the gears, when correctly
mounted on the surface plate is not greater than .0039
inch. The maximum wear limit is .0079 inch. Check that
the quick engagement front teeth of the second-, third-
and fourth-speed gears are not damaged or excessively
worn. Renew if there are signs of gearchange lever
misuse.
5 Inspect the sliding sleeves and the relevent hubs, ensure
that all the working surfaces are perfectly smooth. The
clearance between the mating parts should not be
greater than .0059 inch. Also inspect the meshing teeth
and ensure that they are in good condition.
6 Check that the gear shifting selector forks are not dis-
torted and that the striker rods freely slide in their seats
in the gearbox casing.
7 Carefully inspect that all the oil seals are in perfect con-
dition and if there is any doubt they should be renewed.
8 Inspect the striker rod locking balls and the safety rollers
and ensure that they slide freely in their seatings. Also
check the ball load spring efficiency and if this shows
signs of weakness then it should be renewed. Any
faults with these items will cause difficulty in engaging
gears or autodisengagement during engine acceleration.
6 : 4 Reassembly—gearbox
To reassemble the components to the gearbox ensure
that all components are thoroughly clean and then pro-
ceed as follows:
1 Press t h e pinion rear roller bearing onto the layshaft.
Install the layshaft in the casing, and at the same time
fit the adjustment shim, the fourth-speed driven gear
together w i t h its bush, the sleeve and hub for third and
fourth gear engagement, the first-speed and reverse
driven gear and the third-speed driven gear with its
hub.
2 Install the front layshaft ballbearing securing the
bearing retainment plate w i t h the screws and finally
lock the screws in position.
3 Insert the primary shaft together with the first, third
and fourth driving gear train in the gearbox housing
and slide t h e rear bearing onto the shaft. Push the
input shaft forward to enable the clutch shaft coupling
to be inserted in t h e rear and to be pulled up the
primary shaft by means of the pin. Do not forget the
retaining ring.
4 Slide the primary shaft backwards so pushing the rear
bearing into its bore. Refit the front bearing onto the
primary shaft.
5 On the layshaft insert the second-speed driven shaft
and bush, the second gear sliding dog sleeve and the
hub. Also insert the second-speed striker rod and the
first-speed fork. Do not forget to fit the safety roller
into its seating.
70
6 Slide the second-speed driving gear onto the primary
shaft. Place the engagement fork on the third- and
fourth-speed engagement sliding sleeve, and insert
the striker rod, lock the relevent fork and fit the safety
roller.
7 Insert the third safety roller and install the reverse shaft
and insert the reverse gear cluster onto it and secure
the shaft by tightening its block bolt. Install the reverse
striker rod w i t h its relevent fork.
8 Now refit the speedometer drive worm gear onto the
layshraft. Tighten the nuts on the primary shaft and the
layshaft, not forgetting to interpose the plain washer
between the speedometer driving worm and the nut,
to a torque wrench setting of 1 8.1 Ib ft to 25.3 Ib ft
(primary shaft) and 28.9 to 36.2 Ib ft (layshaft). It is
recommended that the input shaft and layshaft are
locked together by engaging t w o gears at the same
time. Finally, fit the splitpins.
9 Lock the shifter forks onto their shafts by tightening
their respective bolts and bend up the special locking
plates. Install the three positioning balls and relevant
springs into their bores and refit the cover plate.
10 Install the casing cover together with its relevant
gasket. This will enable correct positioning of the shift
shaft lever so that it engages in the outer ends of the
shifter shafts protruding from the gearbox casing.
11 Install the speedometer drive support on the gearbox
casing and refit the upper gearbox cover.
For subsequent differential operations and adjustments
see Sections 6:6.
6:5 Dismantling—differential and final drive
For the removal of the differential and final drive unit
from the gearbox refer to Section 6:3. To dismantle the
differential assembly
proceed as follows:
1 Remove the retaining ring 2 (see FIG 6 : 7) retaining
the splined sleeve 4 and slide the sleeve off the drive
shaft.
2 Remove t h e retaining covers 7 and the oil boots all
together with the bushes and seals, adjuster ring lock
rings 13, adjuster rings housing 14, and bearing
adjuster and roller bearing outer races.
3 Separate the differential housing halves by unscrewing
and removing the six bolts that keep both the halves and
the crownwheel together. It is advisable to mark the
respective components to ensure correct matching
upon reassembly.
4 Remove the differential pinion shaft retainer ring, also
the differential pinions 10 by removing the shaft and
withdrawing the two axle shafts 1.
5 Remove the differential side gears 6 and relevent thrust
rings 8.
6 Using a press remove the differential bearing inner
races from their seats on the carrier halves.
7 Thoroughly clean all parts and dry using a compressed
air jet.
Inspection:
The components of the differential unit must be
thoroughly inspected for correct operation and to deter-
mine the presence of any wear, damage or other irregulari-
ties. To check the items concerned proceed as follows:
1 Check thoroughly the idle pinion carrier shaft for signs

TOOL A 62039
TOOLA. 62040 PIN WRENCH A. 52022
FIG 6:15 Adjusting ring gear-to-pinion backlash and
differential bearing play, using special wrench A.52022
reading on the dial gauge should be between .0031 to
.0047 inch. The actual clearance is adjusted by
screwing in one adjusting nut and screwing out the
other by the equivalent amount using Fiat spanner
A.52022 as shown in FIG 6:15.
4 Remove Fiat tool A.62041 and using Fiat support
A.62040 mount the special dynamometer A.95697 and
adaptor on the axle shaft. Rotate the axle shaft several
turns so seating the bearings and then check using
the dynamometer the rotation torque.
5 If necessary tighten or slacken the adjusters until the
specified torque of 1.01 ± .07 lb ft is obtained. This
operation must be very carefully carried out because if
one adjuster is set differently with respect to the other,
a variation in ring gear to pinion backlash may take
place, resulting in a variation of rotation torque. After
any adjustments always recheck on the ring gear to
pinion backlash and if necessary readjust and then
repeat the rotation torque check.
6 Finally check the tooth contact between the pinion
and ring gear as detailed in the following instructions:
Check and adjustment of tooth contact between
pinion and ring gear:
1 Carefully apply to the ring gear teeth a thin layer of
engineers' blue and gently rotate the differential whilst
holding the axle shaft firmly but allowing them to slip
slightly so as to have the unit working under load
conditions.
2 A contact impression will be left on the ring gear teeth
and the contact will be correct when the drive pinion
tooth contact pattern is evenly distributed on the ring
gear teeth as shown in FIG 6:16. Should the tooth
contact be incorrect the following observations should
be noted.
Excessive contact on tooth flank. Too deep
meshing — move pinion out from ring gear by reducing
thickness of shim.
Excessive contact on tooth heel. Too slight
meshing—move pinion in towards ring gear by
increasing thickness of shim.
74
6 : 8 Replacement of gearbox—differential unit
Installation is the reverse procedure to removal of the
unit from the vehicle as described in Section 6:2.
However, the following points should be noted:
1 Ensure that the clutch driven disc hub is correctly
aligned with the clutch shaft pilot bush.
2 The complete transmission unit should be carefully
pushed towards the engine and the clutch shaft
inserted into the driven disc hub splines and finally
home into the pilot bush. Extreme care must be taken
to ensure that no weight is placed on the clutch shaft
otherwise distortion may take place.
3 Carefully connect the gearbox rear housing to the
engine crankcase by using the studs, t w o of which
have special location dowels fitted. Screw home
finger tight the gearbox/differential to body to front
support mounting screws inserting the fibre washers.
Lower the hydraulic garage jack and pull it away from
underneath the vehicle. Screw in the four lower
mounting nuts and tighten to a torque wrench setting
of between 18.1 to 21.7 Ib f t.Finally tighten the front
support screws.
4 Reconnect the gear shift control rod and the speedo-
meter drive cable. Insert the springs between the axle
shafts and wheel drive shaft and tighten the
three
mounting screws of each splined sleeve on the
flexible joint to a torque wrench setting of 20.3 Ib ft.
5 Refit the flywheel housing cover. Replace the starter
motor together with its relevant cover and tighten the
two mounting nuts to a torque wrench setting of
18.1 to 21.7 Ib ft. Reconnect the starter control rod,
the t w o starter cables, the clutch control tie rod and
hook up the return spring and secure the clutch
control cable retainer bracket to the gearbox casings.
Reconnect the cable to the battery positive terminal
post
6 Lower the vehicle to the floor gently and then give a
thorough road testing.
6 :9 Swing axle shafts and slip joints
Description:
The t w o axle shafts are connected to the differential
unit through specially designed slip joints which allow
the shafts to swing and slide in the splined housing in
the differential side gear. At the other end, the axle shafts
are connected to the wheel drive shaft flexible joints
using a sliding sleeve. Excessive contact on tooth face. Too slight
meshing—move pinion in towards ring gear by in-
creasing thickness of shim.
Excessive contact of tooth toe. Too deep meshing
—move pinion out from ring gear by reducing thickness
of shim.
With all the above detailed cases, to adjust the pinion
by replacing the shim, the differential unit and drive
pinion shaft must be dismantled. This means that when
the unit is reassembled after the necessary adjustments
have been made, the backlash and bearing rotation
torque must be repeated.

FIG 7 : 1 Rear suspension assembly
Key to Fig 7 : 1 1 Brake shoe control cable and sheath 2 Coil spring 3 Oil boot 4 Axle shaft 5 Bumper
6 Flexible joint 7 Swinging arm 8 Cable adjusting nut 9 Swinging arm-to-front bracket mounting pin
10 Swinging arm front bracket-to-underbody mounting screw 11 Engine front support crossmember 12 Swinging arm
rear self-locking nut 13 Shock absorber-to-swinging arm lower nut 14 Sleeve screws 15 Axle shaft-to-flexible joint sleeve
9 Remove the three swinging external support fixing
bolts securing the outer suspension arm bracket to the
vehicle floor and remove the rear suspension assembly.
Remove the special rubber pad located between the
support bracket and the vehicle floor.
7 : 3 Servicing swing arms
Dismantling:
1 Remove the cotter pin and release the nut fixing the
flexible joint to the wheel shaft. Remove the plain
washer and the joint.
2 Using Fiat tool A.40005.1.9 or a universal two-leg
puller, remove the wheel shaft and brake drum.
Extract the t w o oil seals and both the outer and inner
bearing inner rings, thrust ring of the joint and the
resilient spacer.
3 Using Fiat tool A.6511, remove the t w o bearing outer
rings.
4 Disconnect the brake hydraulic line at the wheel
cylinder and remove the swinging external support.
The bearing housing and brake housing flange may
then be removed.
Inspection :
Thoroughly clean all the parts and install the swinging
arm on Fiat fixture A.66064 as shown in FIG 7 : 4. If the
80
swinging arm has not been distorted its installation on the
fixture should be straightforward. Tighten the clamp
screws 1 (see FIG 7 : 3) on the road wheel brake drum,
connect the swinging arm inner member to the seating
2 on the fixture and finally fit the swinging arm external
support holes on the fixture pins 3. Should difficulty be
experienced in either one of these three operations then
this is an indication that the swinging arm is distorted and
should be straightened or a new assembly fitted. If this
check is satisfactory proceed as follows:
1 Check that the 'estendblocks' are a snug fit in their
respective seatings in the swinging arm and that the
mounting pin slides in freely w it h ou t excessive play.
To renew the 'estendblocks' use Fiat tool A.66056
which is suitable for both their removal and installation.
2 Check that the inner and outer bearing outer rings have
no play in their seatings and that the rollers and cages
are not broken, cracked, show signs of overheating
or are worn.
3 Ensure t h a t the o i l seals f i t snugly on the wheel shaft,
also on the joint spacer or shoulder ring and on the
hub seats. If the oil seals should show any signs of wear
then these should be renewed.
4 Inspect the resilient spacer for signs of hair line cracks,
which if not evident the spacer may be used again as
it is not permanently distorted during assembly.
Should, however, new bearings or bearing housings
be fitted it is considered good practice to fit a new
spacer.

high bearing preload. To reset remove the wheel shaft
and fit a new resilient spacer. Repeat the rotation
torque test.
Swinging arm adjustment:
To adjust the swinging arm use Fiat fixture A.66064 as
shown in FIG 7 : 3 and proceed as follows:
1 At points A and B as indicated in FIG 7 : 4 between the
'estendblock' and the swinging arm to body front
mounting bracket fit three shims on each side. To
ensure that the shims are correctly centred use Fiat
alignment bar A.66057.
2 Whilst removing the alignment bar, carefully slip in the
mounting pin and screw on the nut. Once the rear
wheel geometry adjustment has been completed this
nut should be tightened to a torque wrench setting
of 43.4 to 50.6 Ib ft.
3 At points C and D (see FIG 7 : 4) , insert the number of
shims required to fill in the gap between the 'estend-
block' and the two fixture shoulders. Having deter-
mined the number of shims required both at locations
C and D, these must later be fitted between the
'estendblock' and the shoulders on the swinging arm
to body mounting bracket.
7 : 4 Coil springs
The coil springs should be thoroughly cleaned and all
traces of rust removed. Inspect the spring coils for hair
line cracks, which if evident, a new pair of springs must
be fitted to ensure correct vehicle height and stability.
Check the free
height and the height under loading of
the coil springs and these must correspond to the figures
quoted in Technical Data.
7:5 Installation of rear suspension assembly
To replace the rear suspension assembly proceed as
follows:
1 Insert the swinging arm inner end in the mounting
bracket which is welded onto the body floor. Place
between the 'estendblock' and bracket the number of
adjustment shims as previously determined using Fiat
fixture A.66064 as shown in FIG 7 : 4. Insert the Fiat
alignment bar A.66057 through 'estendblock' and
shims, aligning them with the holes in the mounting
bracket. Firmly hold the entire assembly using a garage
hydraulic jack if necessary, and carefully remove the
alignment bar and at the same time ease in t h e
mounting pin. Secure the nut which once the rear
wheels geometry has been checked must be tightened
to a torque wrench setting of 43.4 to 50.6 Ib/ft.
2 Screw in finger tight the three swinging arm external
bracket to body floor mounting screws together w i t h
the plain and spring washers. The screws will have to
be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 28.9 to
36.2 Ib/ft once the rear wheel geometry has been
adjusted.
3 Carefully insert the coil spring, lower insulator ring
onto the swinging arm, insert the spring on the shock
absorber which should be previously secured to the
arm and position the spring onto its seat on the arm.
Place the upper insulator ring onto the spring, raise the
suspension assembly using a garage hydraulic jack and
insert the spring onto its seating under the body floor.
F50083 4 Ensure that the shock absorber to floor rubber ring has
been correctly fitted and extend the shock absorber
until its upper mounting pin protrudes into the vehicle
through the hump in the floor panel. Secure the shock
absorber by its mounting nut and lockwasher having
first inserted the rubber ring and plain washer.
5 Refit the rear wheel housing in place, reconnect the
brake line to the connection on body floor and remove
the plug from the output hole in the brake fluid
reservoir. Bleed the hydraulic brake system as
described in Chapter 10.
Key to Fig 7:8 k Distance of centre rear bracket, for
jacking up the vehicle, from floor level (8.90 inch)
Half-track = 22.264 inch ±.059 inch
FIG 7 : 8 Position of rear suspension f o r rear wheel
toe-in inspection and adjustment ('500 Station Wagon') FIG 7 : 7 Adjusting rear wheel toe-in angle
Key to Fig 7 : 7 Rear wheel plane must be perpendicular to
ground and parallel to car longitudinal centerline with a
tolerance of 0° 10'
To adjust rear wheel geometry, move suitably the swinging arm
outer support. Slight movements are permitted by the play
existing between the support holes A and the mounting screws.
Screws B must be tightened to 28.9 to 36.2 Ibft (4000 to 5000
kg mm). Nuts C must be tightened to 43.4 to 50.6 Ib ft (6000
to 7000 kgmm), after adjustment has been carried out. (These
directions and specifications are also applicable to 500 Station
Wagon).

FIG 10:1 Diagrammatic view of service and rear wheel parking brake system
Key to Fig 10:1 1 Bleeder connections 2 Brake fluid reservoir 3 Service brake pedal 4 Hand lever, mechanical
parking brake on rear wheels 5 Hand lever travel adjustment stretchers 6 Stop lamps 7 Mechanical brake operating lever,
controlled from lever 4 8 Shoe clearance self-adjusting device 9 Wheel cylinders 10 Master cylinder 11 Stoplight
pressure-operated switch
FIG 10:2 Left front wheel brake assembly (500 Sedan)
SHOE
RETURN
SPRINGSHOE MOUNTING
BRACKET SHOE
RETAINING
PLATE SHOES
DEVICESHOE
SELF-ADJUSTING
WHEEL CYLINDERSHOE RETURNSPRING
2 Check that the hydraulic flexible hoses are not con-
taminated with oil or grease which would destroy the
rubber.
3 Ensure that all pipeline fastening clips are secure
otherwise hydraulic line failure could occur due to
cracking caused by excessive vibration.
104
4 Carefully clean all connections and inspect for
hydraulic fluid leaks. Should any leaks be detected
then the connections should be tightened taking very
great care not to twist the pipes during this operation.
5 Ensure that the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir is
correctly filled up to the top of the filter using Fiat
special 'Blue Label' brake fluid. Extra care must be
taken to ensure that no fluid is spilled over the body
paintwork, as this acts as a strong solvent.
6 Ensure that the play between the brake pedal pushrod
and the master cylinder plunger is .019 inch. This will
correspond to approximately .098 inch free pedal
travel.
Never use any fluid but the recommended hydraulic
fluid. Do not leave it in unsealed containers as it will
absorb moisture which can be dangerous. It is best to
discard fluid drained from the system or after a bleeding
operation. Observe absolute cleanliness when working
on all parts of the hydraulic system.
10:3 Front brakes
Front brake drum removal:
1 Remove the wheel trims and carefully slacken the road
wheel retaining bolts. Using a garage hydraulic jack
raise the front of the vehicle and place on firmly
based stands. Remove the road wheels.

FIG 10:9 Brake fluid reservoir
Key to Fig 1 0 : 9 1 Reservoir 2 Strainer 3 Cap, vented
PARKING BRAKE CONTROL CABLE AND SHEATH
.CABLE ADJUSTING NUTS
SHOE OPERATING LEVER
LEVER RETURN SPRING
FIG 10:10 Parking brake control and adjusting mech-
anism at lefthand side rear wheel
Inspect the surfaces of the plungers and the cylinder
bore. If there is any roughness, scoring or corrosion the
assembly should be renewed. Check that the reaction
spring and thrust washers are not corroded or distorted,
renewing any defective parts.
Reassembling wheel cylinders:
Clean the metal parts thoroughly and dry off any
solvent used. The rubber parts should be renewed auto-
matically when servicing the cylinder. Wet the internal
parts w i t h clean brake f l u i d and reassemble them in the
order shown in FIG 10 : 8 .
10810:7 Self-adjusting device
The new 500 Sedan is equipped with a specially
designed brake shoe clearance self-adjusting device
which eliminates all need for manual adjustment during
service.
Operation:
On either side face of the brake shoe rim are placed t w o
friction washers in line with an adjustment slot which is
machined into the brake shoe (see FIG 10:6). The
friction washers are held against the shoe by a pin and
bush screw together through the slot with a strong
spring in between. The hollow pin fits onto the stud in the
brake housing flange. A clearance of .0315 inch between
the pin hole and stud permits the necessary movement of
the shoes to ensure proper braking under normal
operating conditions. On later models the self-adjuster
assembly is held together by a circlip.
When the shoe clearance adjustment is no longer
correct, the braking action will overcome the resistance of
the friction washers and drag along the shoes into contact
with the drum. Once the brake pedal has been released,
the action of the return springs will be weaker than the
friction of the adjustment washers on the shoes and so
the shoes will remain in the new position taken up. As
further wear of the linings occurs the shoes will again
automatically be repositioned by the device.
Inspection and assembly:
During normal brake overhaul all the components of
the self-adjusting device should be thoroughly checked
and any parts badly worn or damaged must be renewed.
Before reassembly it is advisable to check the spring
rating using Fiat tester A.11493 by
compressing the
spring to a height of .374 inch which should give a
corresponding load reading of 97 ± 4.9 Ib. To re-
assemble the device after testing proceed as follows:
1 Place the pin of the self-adjusting device on support
A.54002/2 and insert first the friction washer followed
by the shoe, the second friction washer, the load spring
and the bushings.
2 Fit wrench A.54002/1 onto the support and by
exerting a slight pressure to overcome the spring load
fully tighten the bush onto the pin. Lock the pin and
bushing using a centre punch. Alternatively, fit the
circlip.
3 Install the shoes onto the brake housing flange and
hook up the t w o return springs. Move the shoes out-
wards as far as they will go and release them. Check
that during the return of the shoes the friction washers
have stayed in their new position.
10:8 Removing a flexible hose
Never try to release a flexible hose by turning the ends
w i t h a spanner. The correct procedure is as follows:
Unscrew the metal pipeline union nut from its con-
nection with the hose. Hold the adjacent hexagon on the
hose w i t h a spanner and remove the locknut which
secures the hose to the brackets. The hose can now be
turned without twisting the flexible part, by using a
spanner on the hexagon at the other end.
1
2
3