1960 FIAT 500 service

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement

parking position the trouble will be found in the sliding
sector which fails to open the switch D (see FIG
11 :16) . Check by removing the four motor cover
mounting screws and uncover the sliding sector. If
possible suitably bend the sector to bring it against
into contact with the rod tip of switch D.
3 If the automatic parking of the blades does not occur
when the switch lever is fully depressed to the parking
position but the motor stops when the switch is
operated the cause of the trouble is that the switch D
is not closing and consequently no current is flowing
between the terminals C and INT. This will probably
be due to dirt lodged between the movable contact
and the fixed contacts of switch D. Thoroughly wash
the components with petrol and if necessary reface
the contacts using a very fine file.
4 Should the motor unit be noisy in operation although
still operating reliably the noise is probably due to the
reduction gear operation, whereby the pinion and
worm are excessively worn or a tooth chipped. The
motor unit must be renewed as motor unit parts are
not available in service.
5 If the switch lever is pushed upwards to the 'on'
position or depressed downwards to the Parking
position and the wiper is still inoperative thoroughly
check all terminal connections for tightness and
cables for damage which if all appear to be correct the
failure of the wiper to operate indicates an internal
fault of the motor unit which
should be repaired or
renewed as necessary.
Removal and refitting the motor:
Remove the wiper arms and the electrical connections
to the motor. Dismantling is a straightforward operation
providing that as all items are removed so they are
inspected and a note made of their locations. However,
reassembly requires more care and the following
procedure should be adopted.
1 Mount the wiper unit onto the body by fully tightening
the nuts fixing the pivots onto which the arms are
fitted. Ensure t h a t the rubber sealing bushes between
the pivots and body are correctly assembled to prevent
water ingress. Slightly lubricate with glycerine.
2 Secure the mounting bracket lower edge to the body
by means of the special square bracket. It is important
not to distort the mounting bracket and ease of
assembly is ensured by elongated holes in the square
bracket. By suitable adjustment the linkages will not
be subjected to distortion or abnormal stresses during
operation.
3 Fit the motor unit to the mounting bracket tightening
the screws and reassemble the main link to the pivot
lever. Ensure t h a t the l o c k i n g of the fastener on the
pivot lever is secure so that it does not become loose
during operation.
4 Remake all the electrical connections and run the
motor for a short time whilst checking all the switch
positions including the automatic parking. It is at this
position that the wiper blades and arms are assembled
to the wiper mechanism.
5 Onto the pivots, install the shims, snap ring, wiper arm,
plain washer and lockwasher. Fully tighten the nuts
with the wiper arms in the parked position.
F500
FIG 11 :17 Headlamp removal
Key to Fig 11:17 1 Screw for vertical beam adjustment
2 Screw for horizontal beam adjustment 3 Headlamp
locating hook 4 Headlamp retaining ring and spring
5 Lamp unit 6 Bulb spring retainers 7 Bulb
8 Junction block
6 Ensure that the wiper arms can be tilted 100 deg.
downwards without striking against the cowl or front
compartment lid. Also ensure that the blade pressure
on the glass is 10.6 to 12.3 oz.
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
Description:
The lighting system comprises t w o headlights with
double filament bulbs of 45 watts for main beam and
40 watts for dip. Headlight control is operated through
the outer light switch below the steering wheel after the
toggle switch at the centre of the instrument panel has
been operated.
A double filament bulb for the front parking and
direction indicator lights is located below the headlights:
alternatively, the parking light may be incorporated in the
headlamp unit. The bulb is of 5 watt rating for the parking
lights and 20 watts for the direction indicator lights.
Two side direction indicator lamps are fitted with 2.5
w a t t b u l b s . The rear number plate is illuminated by a 5
watt bulb operated from the main lighting circuit.
Two three purpose rear light units are fitted and are
provided with a one single filament 20 watt bulb for the
direction indicator and one double filament bulb of 5 watt
rating for the parking circuit and 20 watt for stoplights.
Headlamp removal:
The headlamp on earlier cars may be removed from the
front panel by slightly depressing the lens and rotating the
unit counterclockwise through 15 deg. on later cars a
retaining spring is unhooked inside the front compart-
ment and the lamp can then be lifted out (FIG 11 :17).
121

FIG 11:18 Replacement of bulb from inside f r o n tcompartment
Key to Fig 11 :18 1 Double-filament bulb 2 Bulbholder
3 Side direction indicator light 4 Bulbholder shield
PARKING LAMP
LENS
SIDE DIRECTIONINDICATOR
FIG 11 :19 Disassembling front parking and direction
indicator lamp
Replacement of the bulb is achieved from inside the front
compartment by pulling down the upper lug of the
rubber protection cap at the rear of t h e headlight unit and
freeing the bulb holder. Pull up the bulb holder to
reflector fastener spring and pull out the bulb holder
complete and replace the bulb as necessary.
Beam setting:
Accurate setting is best left to a service station
equipped with the necessary equipment. The main beams
must be set parallel to the road surface or in accordance
with local regulations. Adjustment is made by turning
the top screw 1 as indicated in FIG 11:17 for the
vertical setting and the lower screw 2 for the horizontal
setting.
122
FIG 11 : 20 Disassembling tail parking, stop, direction
indicator lamp and reflector lens REFLECTOR LENS PARKING A N D
STOP LAMP INDICATOR LAMP
DIRECTION
LENSLENS
SCREWS
Lamps light when switched on but gradually fade:
Check the battery as it is incapable of supplying
current for any length of time. Front parking and direction indicator lamp:
To replace the double filament bulb, release the screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 :19 and remove the bulb from its bayonet holder. Where
the parking lamp is in the headlamp unit the bulbholder
can be pulled out inside the front compartment.
Rear parking, direction indicator, stop lamps and
reflector lens:
To renew any of the t w o bulbs remove the t w o screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 : 2 0. Bulbs are fixed by bayonet couplings.
Side direction indicator lamps:
To replace the 2.5W bulb slide off the bulb holder
from the rubber socket located as shown in FIG 11 :19.
The bulb is secured by a bayonet coupling.
Number plate lamp:
To replace the bayonet coupled 5W bulb remove the
lens and light cap mounting screws as shown in FIG
11:21.
Lamps give insufficient light:
Test the state of charge of the battery and recharge if it
is necessary from an independent supply. Check the
setting of the lamps. If the bulbs have darkened through
age fit new ones.
Lamps burn out frequently:
If this is accompanied by a need for frequent topping-
up of the battery and high hydrometer readings, check
the charging rate with an ammeter when the car is
running. This should be around 3 to 4 amps. A reading in
excess of this calls for adjustment of the regulator.