1957 FIAT 500 Torque setting

FIG 7:9 Adjusting rear wheel toe-in on '500 StationWagon'
FIG 7:10 Checking left rear wheel toe-in
84
6 Insert the inner spring between the axle shaft and the
wheel shaft and couple the spline sleeve to the joint
and tighten the screws to a torque wrench setting of
20.3 Ib/ft.
7 Reconnect the parking brake tie rod and adjust the
position of the cable using the two stretchers.
8 Refit the wheels and draw up the mounting screws to
a torque wrench setting of 32.5 to 39.8 Ib/ft. Carefully
lower the vehicle to the floor.
7 :6 Checking and adjusting rear wheel toe-in
This check should be carried out by a Fiat agent as
special setting equipment is necessary. However, details
of this check are given for reference purposes:
To check and adjust the rear wheel geometry proceed
as follows:
1 Place the vehicle on firmly based stands and remove
the front and rear wheels.
2 Install Fiat fixtures A.66062 as shown in FIG 7:12 to
enable correct spring compression and wheel location
in the vertical position.
3 Lift the rear suspensions by compressing the coil
springs and shock absorbers using garage hydraulic
jacks. Screw on the fixture lower shank until the
index registers with the mark 'Nuova 500' stamped on
the bracket. In this position the wheel plane is vertical
and the centre O (see FIG 7 : 6) of wheel shaft results
at 5.00 inch from the buffer stop bracket.
4 Secure Fiat support C.696/3 to the wheel drum and
connect gauge C.696 to the support. Tighten the two
clamping screws as shown in FIG 7:12.
5 Apply at the front of Fiat gauge C.696 bracket
numbered C.696/3 as shown in FIG 7:11.
6 Check that the pin mounted on the front end of the
bracket C.696/3 is in touch with the front suspension
swinging arm pin (see FIG 7:11). If these conditions
are not complied with, proceed with item 7.
Wheel toe-in angle
will vary by 0° 10' under
a movement of some 7/32 inch measured at 72.476 inch
from wheel centre for Model 500D, and at 76.413 inch
from wheel centre for 500 Station Wagon NOTE - - that the toe-in angle
Key to Fig 7 : 9 A Front support B Screw holes for
fixing support to underbody C Swinging arm pin nuts

A tolerance of —10'.+ 15' is permitted providing
that the value is the same for both rear wheels. It is
important that both rear wheels are set to the same
angle otherwise uneven tyre wear and adverse handl-
ing conditions will result. When the wheel is parallel to
the centre line of the vehicle the pin of bracket
C.696/3 will be .216 inch apart from the pin of the
front suspension swinging arm.
7 Release the swinging arm outer support to body
mounting screws and position arm in such a way as to
obtain the condition as described in Number 6 above.
After the adjustment has been completed tighten
the outer support mounting screws to a torque wrench
setting of 28.9 to 36.2 Ib/ft. Also tighten the two
swinging arm pin nuts C (see FIG 7 : 7) to a torque
wrench setting of 43.4 to 50.6 Ib/ft. Take off the gauge
C.696 w i t h bracket and support C.696/3, and repeat
the check and adjustment operations on the other
wheel. Care must be taken to ensure that bracket
C.696/3 is reversed from the position previously used.
New 500 type 500D, 110F and 110L sedan and
station wagon:
After the rear suspension has been replaced, check
and, if necessary adjust the rear wheel geometry.
1 Inflate the tyres to the normal operating pressures.
2 Lower the car body so that the rear wheels are set at
90 deg. to the floor. This condition is obtained when
the lowermost portion of the sump is 6.61 inches from
the floor level for the new 500D model or the centre
rear bracket for jacking up the rear of t h e vehicle
8.9 inches from the floor level for the 500 Station
Wagon.
3 With the vehicle set to the above conditions check the
wheel geometry. The wheel plane must converge w i t h
the centre line of the vehicle by an angle of 0 deg. 10'
(—10', +15') toeing in at the front.
4 The wheel plane must be 22.343 ± .059 inches from
the centre line of the vehicle for the 500D model.
Whereas for the 500 Station Wagon the distance must
be 22.264 ± .059 inches.
5 To adjust the rear wheel toe-in adjust the positions of
the mounting screws A and B as shown in FIG 7:7.
86
7:7 Modifications
The new 500 Sedan (110F) and late 500 Station
Wagon are fitted with modified wheels side flexible
joints and rear control arm as shown in FIG 7:13.
Together w i t h these modifications a new design rear
coil spring has been fitted details of which are given in
Technical Data.
7 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Irregular or abnormal tyre wear
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Wheels out of balance
3 Wheels off centre
4 Misadjusted brakes
5 Weak or broken coil springs
6 Excessive load
7 Incorrect wheel alignment
(b) Sag on one wheel
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Weak or broken coil spring
3 Wear of shock absorber causing poor dampening
action
(c) Squeaks, thumps or rattles
1 Wheels out of balance
2 Wheels off centre
3 Misadjusted brakes
4 Weak or broken coil springs or spring seats dislodged
5 Wear of shock absorbers causing poor dampening
action
6 Worn rubber bushings in control arms
7 Poor lubrication of wheel bearings
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Misadjusted brakes
3 Distorted suspension arm

FIG 8:14 Swing arm setting
car. Ensure t h a t the upper elastic supports on the
studs projecting from the underside of the vehicle
body are correctly located and insert the spring. Fit
the two support lower caps w i t h elastic pads and
screw onto the stud nuts to a torque wrench setting
of 28.9 Ib/ft.
2 Assemble the brake housing flange onto the steering
knuckle and tighten the nuts to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib/ft.
3 Assemble the roller bearings and seal into the drum
hub. Pack the bearings and fill the recess between the
bearings w i t h Fiat MR3 grease or an equivalent, and
lightly smear the stub axle. Fit the drum assembly over
the stub axle and replace the washer and nut. Note
that from vehcle number 043624 the righthand hub
has a lefthand thread, the nut being identified by a
circular groove on the outside face. On hubs locked
with a splitpin, tighten the nut to 21.7 Ib/ft, back it off
by approximately 60 deg. (one flat) and fit the splitpin.
On the later pattern hub, with no splitpin, fit a new nut
and make sure it screws in freely. Tighten it to 14.5
Ib/ft, while rocking the hub four or five times to make
sure the bearing is properly seated. Undo the nut
completely, then tighten it again to 5.1 Ib/ft. Back it
off 30 deg. (half a flat) and lock it by staking the rim
into the stub axle spline. Hub end play should be
.001 to .0039 inch.
4 Using Fiat tool A.66059 as shown in FIG 8:13,
reassemble the cap to the hub. Also reassemble the
steering knuckle to the kingpin housing replacing
the t w o upper
thrust rings, the snap ring and the
lower packing ring whose thickness has already been
selected as detailed in Section 8:6 to take up any
play between the knuckle and the kingpin housing.
Secure the steering knuckle pin with the cotter.
5 Reconnect the swinging arm to the wheel assembly
using the special nut and bolt. The nut must be
screwed onto the bolt A (see FIG 8:14), by arranging
the parts so that the angle between the arm plane
and the kingpin housing is approximately 95 deg. as
shown in FIG 8:14. Tighten the nut to a torque
wrench setting of 39.8 Ib/ft.
94
Key to Fig 8:15(9° = Kingpin housing castor angle) FIG 8:15 Section through steering knuckle and leaf
spring mounting at kingpin

VERTICAL LINE DB
S
EB
OIL SUMPF
GF
FIG 8:16 Castor, camber angles
6 Insert the swinging arm pin onto the two studs that
are welded to the body sides so as to support the
front suspension and wheel assembly.
7 Reconnect the kingpin housing to the spring eye by
inserting the bolt and tightening the self-locking nut
to a torque wrench setting of 28.9 Ib/ft. It is important
that during this operation the spring is always kept
in the 'set' position by fixture A.66061 so as to
ensure correct assembly and prevent excessive strain
on the 'estendblocks'.
8 Slide off the swinging arm and insert the spacers and
shims S (see FIG 8:16) onto the studs ensuring
that the resulting thickness is the same as was found
during dismantling. Reattach the swinging arm.
Screw on the nuts securing the pin to the body and
tighten to a torque wrench setting of 28.9 Ib/ft.
9 Refit the shock absorber securing it to the kingpin
housing and to the body inserting the plain washer
between the rubber pad and the toothed washer.
10 Carefully remove Fiat fixture A.66061, connect the
steering rods, hydraulic brake pipes and refit wheels.
Remove the wooden plug from the brake fluid tank
inlet opening. Carefully raise the vehicle using a
garage hydraulic jack, remove the axle stands and
lower slowly to the ground.
11 When both left- and righthand suspension units have
been refitted to the vehicle the front end steering
geometry must be checked and adjusted.
8:9 Steering geometry
Checking of the front wheel geometry is necessary
95
F500
if either excessive tyre wear or irregular steering per-
formance is noticed or if the front suspension assembly
has been dismantled for repair. The values for the front
end setting under a normal static load normally con-
sidered to comprise four passengers should be as
follows:
Camber angle — 1 d e g . ± 20'
Castor angle — 9 deg.± 1 deg.
The camber angle shown in FIG 8:14 and the castor
angle shown in FIG 8 : 1 6 adjustments are performed by
inserting shims S (see FIG 8 : 1 6 ) between the swinging
arm pin and the spacers on the studs that are welded to
the body at points D and E (see FIG 8:16). Shims .0197
inch thick are supplied in service to enable the castor and
camber angles to be adjusted.
It is suggested that the castor and camber angles are
checked at the local agents as specialised equipment is
necessary for completion of these checks.
Adjustment of castor angle:
Slacken the t w o nuts securing the swinging arm pin
to the body and proceed as follows:
1 If the castor angle requires to be increased (see FIG
8:16) move the shims S from the rear screw E to the
front screw D.
2 If the castor angle requires to be reduced (see FIG
8:16) move the shims from the front screw D to the
rear screw E.
Adjustment of camber angle:
Slacken the t w o nuts securing the swinging arm pin DE
A
C

CHAPTER 9
THE STEERING SYSTEM
9 : 5 Relay lever and support
9 : 6 Steering rods
9 : 7 Front wheel toe-in
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis 9:1 Description
9 : 2 Steering wheel removal and refitting
9 : 3 Steering box removal and refitting
9 : 4 Steering box dismantling and reassembly
9:1 Description
The steering gear fitted to the new 500 range of
vehicles is of the worm screw and sector type with a
steering ratio of 1:13. The steering gearbox is located on
the front lefthand side of the dash wall on the scuttle as
shown in FIG 9:1. The steering gear comprises a pitman
arm and relay lever pivoting on a pin supported on the
body. A central track rod connects the pitman arm to the
relay lever. T w o track rods connect the pitman arm and
relay lever to the knuckle arms.
9:2 Steering wheel removal and refitting
To remove the steering wheel proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the battery positive terminal clamp and
remove the horn control from the steering wheel.
2 Remove the cable from the push button seating and the
cable insulation sleeve.
3 Using a suitably sized box spanner or Fiat wrench
A.8279 unscrew the steering wheel to shaft nut as
shown in FIG 9:2.
4 Using the palm of the hands against the back of the
steering wheel rim gently tap the steering wheel
forwards so releasing it from the inner shaft.
F50097 5 Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling.
Care should be taken to ensure that the front wheels
are located in the straight ahead position when the
steering wheel is being replaced otherwise the steering
wheel spokes will not be correctly positioned.
9 : 3 Steering box removal and refitting
To remove the steering box from the vehicle proceed
as follows:
1 From inside the vehicle remove the steering column
clamp bolt 6 (see FIG 9 : 3) after flattening the lock-
washer 7.
2 From the underside of the vehicle remove the t w o
tie rod locking nuts from the pitman arm and then using
Fiat tool A.46006 or a suitable t w o leg puller withdraw
the pins from the seats.
3 Remove the three nuts holding the steering box to the
body panel. Ease out the worm screw from the
steering shaft and lift away the steering box.
4 To refit the steering box is the reverse procedure to
dismantling. The steering box to body mounting nuts
should be tightened to a torque wrench setting of
14 Ib/ft to 18 Ib/ft.

reassembling and during assembly liberally lubricated
using Fiat W90/M oil (SAE90 EP).
2 The pitman arm nut should be correctly positioned on
reassembly to the sector shaft and both are marked
with notches or a master tooth on the sector will mate
with a double tooth on the pitman arm which will
prevent incorrect reassembly.
3 The pitman arm nut must be tightened to a torque
wrench setting of 72 Ib/ft.
4 Fill the box up to the level and filler plug with SAE90 EP
gear oil.
Refitting the steering box:
To refit the steering box to the vehicle proceed as
follows:
1 Engage the w o r m screw f r o m the steering shaft by
gently manipulating the steering box.
2 Replace the steering box to body nuts and tighten to a
torque wrench setting of 14 to 18 Ib/ft.
3 Replace the t w o track rod pins in their seatings in the
pitman arm and tighten the self-locking nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 18 to 21 Ib/ft.
4 Replace the steering shaft to worm screw mounting
bolt, lock washer and nut.
9 :5 Relay lever and support
The steering idler arm is secured to the body by means
of a support bracket and a rubber bushed pivot bolt. This
is shown in FIG 9 : 7. When this unit is being serviced
the following points should be noted.
1 If there is excessive play between the pin and the
bushes the bushes must be renewed. Also check the
condition of the pin and if there are signs of excessive
wear it must be renewed.
2 To eliminate torsional stresses in the rubber bushes
during assembly the pin nut must be tightened to
torque wrench setting of 39 to 43 Ib/ft, once the
front wheel toe-in has been correctly adjusted w i t h the
wheels set in the straight ahead position.
3 The relay lever support to body mounting nuts must
be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 14 to 18
Ib/ft.
9 : 6 Steering rods (tie rods)
The steering rod is connected to the idler arm and the
drop arm by means of non-adjustable ball joints. The
track rods are connected to the right and left steering
arms by non-adjustable ball joints and comprise t w o
sleeves which are split and having internally threaded
ends. The ball joints are clamped to either end of the
sleeves. To facilitate adjustment one ball joint end has a
lefthand thread and the other a righthand thread.
Adjustment is made by loosening both the clamping bolts
and turning the central sleeve.
To remove the steering rods from the pitman arm, the
relay lever and knuckle arms Fiat pullers A.46006 and
A.6473 or universal ball joint removers should be used.
If excessive play is evident in the ball joint linkage or
the pin is damaged the complete ball joint assembly must
be renewed.
Upon reassembly the tie rod to ball pin knuckle arm
nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of
18 to 21 Ib/ft.
F500101
FIG 9:7 Relay lever support section
FIG 9:8 Front wheel toe-in checking diagram
Key to Fig 9:8 A—B = 000 inch to .079 inch
It is important that all steering linkages are thoroughly
checked at regular intervals and if any parts are suspect
then they must be renewed.
9 : 7 Front wheel toe-in
To check and adjust the front wheel toe-in proceed as
follows:
1 Ensure that the tyres are inflated to the recommended
pressures. Ensure that the steering wheel is in its

normal straight-ahead position with the spokes
horizontal. Check that the wheels are in the straight-
ahead position.
2 Load the vehicle to static load conditions or with four
average size passengers.
3 Move the vehicle forwards for a distance of approxi-
mately six yards so that the suspension may settle
correctly.
4 The toe-in measurements should be taken at the same
point of the wheel rim. Measure at A (see FIG 9 : 8)
then back up the car to bring points A to the position B
and remeasure. The value obtained at A should be
equal to or greater than B within .0079 inch.
5 As previously described the steering rods are adjust-
able in length. Loosen the clamps and screw in or out
the adjusting sleeves and before tightening the clamp
ensure that the sleeve slot registers w i t h the clamp
joint. With the clamp fully tightened there should
always be a gap between the joint faces.
6 If the steering gear has been re-installed the correct
front wheel toe-in must be set. Then the relay lever pin
nut must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 78
to 85 Ib/ft.
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Front wheel shimmy
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose front wheel bearings
4 Wheels out of balance
5 Loose steering linkage connections
6 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
7 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
(b) Hard steering
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(c) Hard turning when stationary
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
102
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
4 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms
5 Unequal brake adjustment
6 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(e) Rattles
1 Loose steering linkage connections
2 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
3 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
4 Lack of lubrication
( f ) Loose steering
1 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
2 Loose steering linkage connections
3 Loose steering gear mountings
4 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(g) Jerky steering
1 Incorrect front wheel alignment
2 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Loose steering linkage connections
5 Loose or incorrect fitting of worm to sector
(h) Side-to-side wander
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose steering linkage connections
4 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
5 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
6 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arm
7 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(i) Tyre squeal on turns
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect wheel alignment
3 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading