1953 JEEP DJ maintenance

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
13406

FIG.
H-39—STARTING
CIRCUIT

1—
Ground
Cable
2—
Battery

3—
Positive Cable
4—
Alternator
Wire
5—
Alternator

6— Ignition Switch
Wire

H-93.
Maintenance Procedure

A
periodic inspection should be made of the start­ ing circuit. Since the interval
between
these
checks

will
vary according to the type of service, it should, under normal conditions, be made every 500 hours
of operation. Inspect all starting circuit wiring for damage.
Check
for
loose
or corroded terminals and
for dependable operation of the starting motor.

H-94.
Wiring

Refer
to Fig. H-39. Inspect the starting circuit to make sure that all
connections are clean and tight.
Check
for worn or damaged insulation on the wires. Perform a volt­

age-loss
test
to make sure there is no
loss
of start­ ing motor efficiency resulting from high resistance
connections. Voltage
loss
from the battery ter­
minal
to the starting motor terminal should not
exceed .30 volts for each 100 amperes. Voltage
loss
between
the battery ground
post
and the start­ing motor frame should not exceed .10 volts for
each 100 amperes. If the
voltage
loss
is greater
than
these
limits, measure the
voltage
loss
over
each part of the circuit until the resistance causing the
voltage
loss
is located and corrected.

H-95.
Commutator
Sluggish starting motor operation may be caused by a dirty commutator or worn brushes. The com­mutator cannot be cleaned while the. starting motor is mounted on the
engine
and it
will
be necessary
to remove it and proceed as for an overhaul. Should 7— Ignition Switch
8— Solenoid
Wire

9—
Starter

10— Solenoid
11—
Connector
Strap
the commuator be rough or worn, it should be
removed for cleaning and reconditioning.
H-96.
Overhaul Procedure

At
periodic intervals the starting motor circuit
should be thoroughly checked and the motor re­ moved from the
engine
for cleaning and checking.

H-97.
Removal and Disassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.
To
remove the starting motor from the engine, dis­
connect the leads and cover the battery lead ter­

minal
with a piece of
hose
or tape to prevent short

circuiting.
Remove the flange
bolts
holding the starting motor to the flywheel housing. Remove
the starting motor from the vehicle.

Each
part of the starting motor should be removed, cleaned, and inspected for evidence of wear or
damage. The Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive should be
cleaned and inspected for evidence of wear or a distorted spring. Bearings should be checked for
proper clearance and fit. All insulation should be
free of oil and in
good
condition. The armature,
field coils, and brushes should be checked for
good
ground and lack of open circuits.

H-98.
Brushes

a.
The brushes should slide freely in their holders
and
make full contact on the commutator. Worn
brushes should be replaced.
b.
Check
brush spring tension with a spring scale.
Hook the scale under the brush spring near the 203

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

CLUTCH

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL
.1-1
Clutch
Maintenance 1-2
Clutch
Pedal Linkage and Adjustment.... 1-3
Pilot Bushing Inspection and
Replacement 1-8

CLUTCH
—HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE.
. . .1-4
Clutch
Removal. 1-5
Clutch
Pressure Plate and Disc Inspection.
.
1-6

Clutch
Pressure Plate Adjustment 1-7

Clutch
Installation 1-9

CLUTCH
—DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE,
DIAPHRAGM
SPRING
TYPE
1-10

Clutch
Removal.
........
.1-11
Clutch
Inspection, Diaphragm Spring Type. . 1-12

Clutch
Installation 1-27
SUBJECT
PAR.

SERVICING COIL
SPRING
TYPE CLUTCH
. .1-13 Pressure Plate Adjustment. 1-14
Pressure Plate Disassembly. . . . . 1-15
Inspection of Parts 1-16 thru 1-20 Pressure Plate Reassembly. . . . .1-21 thru 1-23

Clutch
Lever Adjustment 1-24

Clutch
Fitxure . .1-26

CLUTCH
THROWOUT
RELEASE
BEARING
1-25

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
1-28

CLUTCH
SPECIFICATIONS
1-29
CLUTCH
ADJUSTING
FIXTURE
DATA
1-30

FIG.
I-1—CLUTCH
LINKAGE AND
ADJUSTMENT,
CROSS

SHAFT
TUBE
AND
LEVER
TYPE

1—
Clutch
Release Bearing
2—
Carrier
Spring
3—
Bracket

4— Dust Seal 5—
Ball
Stud 6—
Pad
7— Retainer
8—
Control
Tube Spring
9—
Control
Lever and Tube
10—
Ball
Stud and Bracket
11—
Frame
Bracket
12—
Ball
Stud Nut 13—
Yoke
Lock
Nut
14— Adjusting Yoke
15— Bolt
16— Pedal Release Rod
17— Pedal Clamp Bolt 18—
Control
Cable
19—
Clutch
Pedal
20— Screw and Lockwasher
21—
Draft
Pad 22— Pedal Pad and Shank
23— Retracting Spring
24— Pedal to Shaft Key 25— Washer
26— Pedal Shaft
27— Master Cylinder Tie Bar
28—
Control
Lever
29— Bearing
Carrier
10734

225

I

CLUTCH 1-1.
GENERAL

The
clutch on current 'Jeep' vehicles is either

Auburn
or Borg and Beck manufactured. Vehicles
equipped with F4-134
engines
have an
Auburn
9.25" [23,4 cm.] single plate dry-disc clutch. The
pressure plate has three coil pressure springs and
three levers or fingers.

The
V6-225
engine
is equipped with a 10.4" [26,4
cm.] Borg and Beck single plate dry-disc clutch.

The
pressure plate utilizes either a finger-type
diaphragm spring, or a coil
type
spring pressure plate for clutch release.

The
driven plates of all
models
are built with
vibra­

tion damper springs and have two flexible facings

which
provide
smooth
engagement
of the
engine
power.
Early
'Jeep' vehicles equipped with a Dauntless
V-6
engine
use a 10.4" [26,4 cm.] single plate, dry-
disc clutch, incorporating a diaphram-type spring assembly.

The
clutch is of the centrifugal single dry disc
type
and
consists of the clutch disc, pressure plate and
the clutch release bearing.

The
clutch is actuated by a clutch pedal and a
series of mechanical linkage.

When
the clutch pedal is in the
engaged
position,
the clutch disc facings are clamped
between
the
friction surface of the
engine
flywheel and the face of the clutch pressure plate, thereby connect­
ing
engine
power to the transmission. Depressing
the clutch pedal actuates the clutch release shaft
fork
which
moves
the clutch release bearing against
the clutch fingers.
This,
in
turn,
moves
the pressure
plate away from the clutch disc. Since the disc is splined to the transmission input shaft, the clutch
disc and transmission input shaft
will
stop
when
the clutch is disengaged, thereby disconnecting
engine
power from the transmission.
1-2.
Clutch
Maintenance

To
obtain normal life and satisfactory performance
from any clutch it must be correctly operated and
properly maintained. Two conditions which shorten
clutch life are continuous operation of the clutch
release bearing and clutch slippage.
The
clutch release bearing is
designed
for inter­
mittent use. If run continuously the bearing
lubri­

cant
will
become
exhausted causing the bearing to
become
dry, noisy, or
will
seize, resulting in clutch
finger or diaphragm wear. The clutch must be properly adjusted so that the release bearing is
free of the clutch fingers or diaphragm at all times,

except
when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Excessive
clutch slippage
often
occurs when the
vehicle is overloaded, the vehicle load is applied
too quickly, or when the pressure of the clutch fingers or diaphragm is only partially applied to the clutch plate.
Friction
between
the clutch facing

and
flywheel produces
excessive
heat causing
burned,
glazed and worn linings, resulting in shortened clutch life. Avoid clutch slippage under
heavy loads by using a lower gear or reducing the load.
1-3.
Clutch
Pedal
Linkage
and Adjustment

Adjust
the clutch pedal free travel whenever the clutch
does
not
disengage
properly, or when new
clutch parts are installed. Improper adjustment of
the clutch pedal free travel is one of the
most
fre­
quent causes of clutch failure and can be a con­ tributing factor in
some
transmission failures.

As
the clutch facings wear the free travel of the clutch pedal diminishes. When sufficient wear oc­

curs
the pedal clearance must be adjusted.

Two
types
of clutch linkage have
been
used on Jeep vehicles, a cross shaft
tube
and lever
type

shown in Fig. 1-1, and a clutch control cable
type

shown in Fig. 1-2. The clutch pedal adjustment
procedures for both
type
linkages are as follows.
•
Cross
Shaft
Lever
and Tube Type

Refer
to Fig. 1-1.

Note:
Two different
Clutch
Control
Lever
and

Tube
Assemblies have
been
installed on 'Jeep*

Universal
vehicles equipped with a V-6
engine
and

T14A
transmission.
Should difficulty in shifting the transmission be
noted, check the length of the clutch release pedal
rod,
item (16) in Fig. 1-1. Measure the distance

between
the centerlines of the cotter key holes.

FIG.
1-2—CLUTCH
LINKAGE AND
ADJUSTMENT,

CONTROL
CABLE TYPE

A—Top
View,
Cable
to
Clutch
Fork
1—
Retracting
Spring
(Clutch
Fork)

2—
Clutch
Fork

3—
Ball
Adjusting Nut
4—
Lock
Nut 5—
Clutch
Cable

B—Side
View,
Cable
to
Clutch
Pedal 6—
Clutch
Cable
Support
Bracket
7—
Clutch
Cable
Housing
8—
Anchor
Bracket-to-Frame Side
Rail

9—
Retracting
Spring
(Clutch
Pedal)

10—Clutch
Pedal Assembly
*
© © ©
1437S
226

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

m
FRONT fiXLE

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL.
M-l

4-WHEEL DRIVE FRONT
AXLE.
M-2
Maintenance
Requirements M-3

FRONT AXLE REMOVAL
.M-4

AXLE
SHAFT REMOVAL
M-5

REMOVING
AND
OVERHAULING
DIFFERENTIAL
.M-6

AXLE
SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT SERVICE
M-7

STEERING
KNUCKLE SERVICE
M-8
Replacing
Steering
Knuckle
Oil Seal M-10

M-1. GENERAL
The
front axle for all 'Jeep* Universal models,

which
have 4-wheel drive, is described in
Par.
M-2.
The
front axle for all DJ-5, DJ-6 models, which
have 2-wheel drive, is described in
Par.
M-l5.

M-2. 4-WHEEL-DRIVE FRONT AXLE
The
front axle is a live driving unit with hypoid

type
driving gears and spherical steering knuckles mounted m pivot pins which ride on tapered roller bearings for
ease
of steering. The drive is of the
full
floating
type
through axle shafts built integrally

with
cardan cross universal joints which revolve in the steering knuckles. The steering knuckle tie rod

arm
is made integrally with the knuckle. The
knuckles
are connected by a divided tie rod to a steering bell
crank.
A steering connecting rod con­

nects
the bell
crank
to the steering gear arm. The

divided
tie rod is adjustable and the
toe-in
of each
front wheel is adjusted independently.
Camber
and
SUBJECT
PAR.

REASSEMBLY
AND
BEARING PRELOAD
M-9

AXLE
SHAFT INSTALLATION
M-ll
FRONT AXLE INSTALLATION........
.M-l2
Turning
Angle Adjustment . .M-14

Steering
Tie Rod and
Beilcrank
M-l3

2-WHEEL DRIVE FRONT AXLE
M-15
Removal
of Solid
Front
Axle M-l6

Steering
Knuckle
Service M-l7

Steering
Knuckle
Pin Replacement. ......M-l8

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
M-19

AXLE
SPECIFICATIONS.
M-20

caster
of the front
wheels
is preset.
Camber
cannot
be altered but caster can be adjusted by installing

caster
shims
between
the axle pad and the springs.

For
information on the steering
geometry
see
"Steering
Section."

Service
procedures given in this section include
the removal, installation, disassembly and assembly
of the Model
27AF
front axle assembly, the axle
shafts, steering knuckles, and
universal
joints.

Note:
All service replacement axle assemblies are
shipped from the factory without lubricant in the
differential.
Lubricant
must be added; use grade

and
quantity as specified in the lubrication chart (Section B).

M-3.
Maintenance Requirements

A
spring-loaded breather is located on the top of
the differential housing.
Each
time the differential
lubricant
is checked, the breather should be

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not

properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur­

ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in

Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves

the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.

Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjust­ment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the

cam
groove.

Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac­
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.

Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.

Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove

is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the

adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.

Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer­ ing arm.

The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the

straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This

feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal

straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer­ ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else­

where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi­
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom­ mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align­
ment.

c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.

d.
Check
wheel runout.

e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.

h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.

i.
Check
caster,

j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.

I.
Check
camber.

m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,

n.
Check
frame alignment.

The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There­

fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are

all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.

Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main­
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satis­factory tire life.

The
most important factors of front wheel align­ment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.

Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer

together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out­

ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or

rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve­

hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in­
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.

These
points should be checked at regular inter­
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and

knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when

checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off­

set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
BRAKES

SUBJECT
PAR

GENERAL.
. P-l
Brake
Maintenance P-5
Master
Cylinder.
P-2

Parking
Brake
P-3
Transmission
Brake
P-4

BRAKE SERVICE
.P-6 Bleeding Brakes P-7

Brake
Adjustments P-14

Brake
Hoses P-8

Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment P-l9

Brake
Shoe Installation P-l8

Brake
Pedal Adjustment P-9

Hand
Brake.
P-10 Inspection P-17
SUBJECT
PAR

Brake
Shoe Removal P-l6

Master
Cylinder Reconditioned. . P-20

Parking
Brake
Adjustment
.P-l 1
Relining
Transmission
Brake
P-13

Relining
Wheel
Brake
P-l5

Transmission
Brake
Adjustment .P-12

Wheel
Brake
Units P-14

Wheel
Cylinder Reconditioning P-21

TROUBLESHOOTING
P-2 2 Squeaky Brakes P-23
Rattles in Brakes P-24

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
P-25

SPECIFICATIONS
P-2 6

P-1. GENERAL
A
double-safety
hydraulic brake system in con­
junction with self-adjusting wheel brake units are
standard
equipment on all current production
'Jeep* vehicles. The
double-safety
brake system
Is
equipped with dual
stop
light switches that op­
erate independently of each other, thus eliminating
possible
stop
light failure. Service information for
self adjusting brakes starts with Par. P-14.
All
four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a transmission brake that operates in the drive line

and
is mounted to the rear of the transfer case. Two-wheel-drive vehicles
(DJ-5,
DJ-6)
are equipped
with a hand-operated parking brake that operates at the rear wheels.

P-2.
Master Cylinder —
Double Safety-Brake System

The
master cylinder (cast integrally with the res­

ervoir)
is the compensating type. Refer to Fig.
P-2 and P-13.
Action by the brake pedal
moves
the master cylin­der piston which exerts pressure on the fluid in
the cylinder and lines. 12914

FIG.
P-l—DOUBLE SAFETY BRAKE SYSTEM —
LATE
MODELS 1— Stop Light Switch and Tee (Froat)
2—
Line
Tee (Front)

3—
Master
Cylinder (Dual System
4—
Brake
Pedal Assembly 5—
Brake
Hose
6—
Line
Tee
(Rear)
7—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left
Rear)

8— Proportioning Valve
(Early
Models)
9— —Stop Light Switch and Tee
(Rear)

10—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left Front)
11—
Front
Brake
Hoses
323

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P The
standard parking brakes (Fig. P-3) consist of
cable-controlled linkage for applying the rear wheel

brake
shoes
mechanically. A single cable from the

parking
brake control lever is connected, by means of an equalizer, to cables leading to individual rear

brakes.
A lever attached to the secondary
shoe,

with a link acting against the
primary
shoe,
expands the
shoes
into
contact with the drums.
P-4.
Transmission Brake

The
transmission brake is mechanically operated
by a hand lever through a cable and conduit and is mounted at the rear output bearing housing on the
transfer case. The transmission brake and its
linkage are shown in Fig. P-4.
P-5.
Brake Maintenance
No brake can be
expected
to work well when grease
or oil is allowed to leak
into
the drum from the rear axle. Little braking friction can be obtained

between
brakes and drums when the surface is
covered with grease and oil. For this reason, take
care
not to over-lubricate wheel bearings, forcing

lubricant
past seals. Also, check condition of seals

if
leak is suspected or whenever brake drums

are
pulled.
Whenever
wheels
are removed, it is advisable to
wash the drums with a suitable solvent so that all
grease and dirt are removed. Linings with any
evidence of grease or oil on them should be replaced.
The
hydraulic system should be kept free of dirt

and
moisture.
Use only SAE standard J-1703 Hydraulic
Brake
Fluid.

Caution:
Keep mineral oils, gasoline, or kerosene
out of the system as
they
cause rubber cups to

soften,
swell, and distort, resulting in failure.
P-6.
Brake
Service

To
service the brakes,
follow
the procedure
below:

a.
Check the fluid level in the brake master cylin­
der.
See Lubrication Section, Par. B-40.
b. Check brake pedal adjustment. See Par. P-9.
c. Check brake pedal travel. If the pedal travels more than halfway to the floor, the brake system
must be checked and the self adjusting star wheel mechanisms checked for binding, also the brake
linings should be inspected as
they
may be badly

worn.
How much lining is
left
can only be deter­ mined by visually inspecting the linings. See Par.
P-l6 for relining brakes.

d.
If the brakes pull to one side after adjustment, check tire pressures. All tires must be inflated to recommended pressures to ensure even braking. If
the condition persists, examine the brake linings
for foreign material and clean as necessary. If clean­
ing
does
not correct the condition the linings should be replaced. If the side pull persists, check front
wheel alignment and balance.
e. Check the brake system for leaks by applying a steady pressure on the brake pedal. A leak in the
system
will
allow the pedal to "fall away". If the pedal "falls away" check for a leaking wheel cylin­
der.
Remove
wheels
and drums and carefully check
each cylinder. Also examine all lines and fittings.

Rebuild
or replace all wheel cylinders (Par. P-21)

if
one is
defective
as
they
are all probably in poor condition. If the leak has allowed brake fluid to get
on the linings, the linings
will
have to be replaced.
f. A
"spongy"
brake pedal indicates the pressure of air in the hydraulic system.
This
condition must
be corrected by bleeding the brakes. See Par. P-7.
g. Should the brakes
become
locked so that the vehicle cannot be moved, the brakes may be re­
leased by opening the bleeder screw on any one of the wheel cylinders. Before the vehicle is driven, correct the cause of the condition. The cause may
3
14 15 16 17 18
4
10796

1—
Cable
and Conduit
2—
Hand
Brake
Clip

3—
Hand
Brake
Bracket
4—
Hand
Brake
Handle Assembly 5—
Rear
Cap
6—
Drive
Gear
Bushing
7—
Driven
Gear

8—
Driven
Gear
Sleeve
FIG.
P-4—TRANSMISSION
BRAKE

9—Backing
Plate
10— Shoe and
Lining

11—
Lever
End Return Spring
12—
Brake
Drum
13— Bolt 14—
Rear
Companion Flange
15—
Washer

16— Nut 17— Propeller Shaft Flange Yoke
18—
Rear
Propeller Shaft
19—
Adjusting
End Spring
20—
Adjusting
Screw Bracket
21—
Operating
Lever

22—
Clevis

23—
Retracting
Spring
Clip

24—
Retracting
Spring
Link
325