1953 JEEP DJ oil level

TUNE-UP

C-29.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

POOR
FUEL ECONOMY Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted High Fuel Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage

Leaky
Fuel Pump Diaphragm Loose Engine Mounting Causing High Fuel Level in Carburetor

Low
Compression
Valves Sticking
Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad
Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment

Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel Tank Cap
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve

LACK
OF POWER
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor
or Fuel Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged

Air
Cleaner Restricted Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves
Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged

Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

LOW
COMPRESSION
Leaky
Valves Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect Piston Clearance too Large

Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket

BURNED
VALVES AND SEATS Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides
Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System

Defective
Valve
Lifter
— Hydraulic
VALVES
STICKING
Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems

Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil

OVERHEATING
Inoperative Cooling System
Theromstat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil
System Failure Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve — Dauntless V-6 Engine

POPPING-SPITTING-DETONATION
Improper Ignition Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in
Combustion Chambers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing

Clogged
Fuel Filter Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

EXCESSIVE
OIL CONSUMPTION Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged

Excessive Clearance, Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem
to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-
Round or Tapered
Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating

BEARING
FAILURE
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage

Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure

Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 34

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE d.
Remove the intake valve adjusting screw lock-
nuts from each of the rocker arm valve lash ad­

justing
screws. Remove the screws from the rocker
arms.

D-76.
Inspection and
Repair

Run
a round wire brush through the bore of the

rocker
arm shaft and clean out the drilled oil holes.
Clean
out the oil
holes
in the rocker arm shaft

brackets,
and the oil
holes
and
grooves
in the bores
of the rocker arm.
Inspect
the diameter of the shaft at the rocker arm

bearing
areas. Replace the shaft if there are scores

or
abrasion marks along the length of the shaft.
Check
the shaft for alignment by rolling it across

a
smooth level surface. If the shaft
will
not
roll
freely, or if it rolls with a bumping motion, the
shaft is out of alignment and must be replaced.
Inspect
the threads of the adjusting screw
hole
in
the rocker arms and if necessary clean with a

proper
size tap. Replace the adjusting screw lock-
nut or the adjusting screw if either part is damaged

or
deformed.

Inspect
the threads in the tapped
hole
in the top
of the rocker arm shaft brackets and if necessary

clean
with a proper size tap. Replace the bracket

if
either side is worn or scored.

D-77.
Reassembly

a.
Install
two rocker arm shaft plugs, one in each
end of the shaft. Slide two
rocker
arm
shaft brackets
onto
the center of the shaft. Align the tapped
holes

in
the brackets with the drilled
holes
in the top of
the shaft and install the rocker arm shaft lock
screws,
making sure the points of the screws enter
the drilled
holes
in the shaft.

b.
Screw the intake valve adjusting screws into
the rocker arms and install the locknuts.

c.
The rocker arms are paired; that is, two of the
arms
are angled to the right and two are angled to
the left. One of each type is used on each end of
the rocker arm shaft. Slide a rocker arm with the

adjusting
screw end of the rocker arm angling

away
from the bracket
onto
the shaft so that the
adjusting
screw is on the same side of the shaft
as the mounting
hole
in the bracket.

d.
Temporarily
secure the end bracket in place by
installing
a rocker arm cover stud in the tapped
opening in the top of the support.
e. Assemble the parts on the
opposite
end of the
rocker
arm shaft repeating
steps
c and d above.

D-78. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
The
engine
reassembly procedure in the following

paragraphs
is given in the sequence to be followed
when the
engine
is being completely overhauled.
Individual
inspection,
repair,
and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the reassembly procedure. The reassembly pro­
cedure
does
not cover accessories. If a new cylinder

block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the
operations
will
not be required.
Mount
the cylinder block in an
engine
repair stand.
If
an
engine
stand is not available, perform the fol­
lowing reassembly operation in a manner designed to protect personnel against an accident and the

engine
and its parts against damage.

Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray
Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all
engine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline and

water
leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers,
water
pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and oil line
connections, stud bolts,
spark
plug threads, and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's in­
structions on container for proper application pro­
cedure.

D-79.
Install
Oil
Gallery
Plug

Coat
plug threads with a suitable sealing compound

and
install the plugs in the front and
rear
ends of
the oil gallery in the cylinder block and the
rear

end of the cylinder head. Torque the plugs 20 to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

There
is also a pipe plug
(}/g,f
[3,2 mm.] slotted, headless) in the opening in the main oil gallery inside the cylinder block at No. 2 cylinder and another pipe plug
(}/g
"
square-head) in the opening

in
the oil passage directly below the oil pump intake
passage. If
these
two pipe plugs were removed,
make
certain they are reinstalled in the locations
described above or the counterweight of the

crankshaft
might strike the projecting head of the
square-head
plug.

D-80.
Install
Tappets

Turn
the block upside down. Beginning at the

rear
end of the cylinder block, install the intake

and
exhaust valve tappets in the tappet bores in the cylinder block in the following order: one
exhaust, two intake, two exhaust, two intake, and
finally
one exhaust valve tappet.

Check
the tappet to bore fit of each tappet as it
is installed in the block. If the stem-to-block

clearance
tolerance of .0005" to .002" [0,0127 a
0,051 mm.] is
exceeded
install a new tappet fitting
within
this tolerance or ream the bore to accomo­ date the next oversize tappet which is available

in
.004" oversize.

D-81.
Install
Camshaft and
Thrust
Plate

Lubricate
all camshaft bearings and cam surfaces generously with clean, light
engine
oil.
Carefully,

so not to damage or score the camshaft front bear­
ing,
install the camshaft, locating it properly in the bearings. Do not allow the
rear
end of the cam­shaft to strike sharply against the expansion plug

installed
in the
rear
end of the bore.
Install
the camshaft thrust plate. Slide the thrust
plate spacer
onto
the end of the camshaft with the
beveled inner
edge
of the spacer facing the cam­
shaft. If the same camshaft is being reinstalled,
install
any shims previously removed. These shims
are
placed
between
the camshaft shoulder and the

spacer.
Torque the thrust plate attaching
bolts
20
to 26 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,6 kg-m.].

End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate. The standard clearance 62

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-112.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor
Fuel
Economy Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High
Fuel
Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High
Fuel
Level

in
Carburetor

Low
Compression Valves Sticking

Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel
Tank
Cap

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Lack
of Power
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or
Fuel
Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe

Defective
Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective
Breaker Points—Replace
Points

Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset
Points

Defective
Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective
Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked
Distributor Cap—Replace Cap

Low
Compression
Leaky
Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and
Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Valves Sticking Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
Overheating Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation

Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Oil
System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings

Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Cham­
bers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close

Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty Connecting Rod Bent 70

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.
SUBJEC

GENERAL
.... . . Dl-1 Oil Pump Cl(
ENGINE DESCRIPTION
D1-2

Engine
Mounts Dl-3

ENGINE REMOVAL
Dl-4
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Dl-5
Alternator
and Fan Belt Dl-11
Camshaft
.... Dl-26
Cooling Fan and Water Pump.
......
.Dl-12
Crankshaft
Front Oil Seal .Dl-21

Crankshaft
Pulley D1-17
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Dl-18

Cylinder
Head Assembly Dl-24

Distributor
Dl-9
Exhaust
Manifold .Dl-8

Flywheel
Dl-28

Flywheel
Housing and
Clutch
Dl-27
Fuel
Pump. ... . .Dl-10
Intake
Manifold and
Carburetor
Assembly.
.............
.Dl-7

Main
Bearing and Crankshaft. Dl-32 Mounting Engine on Engine Stand. . . . .Dl-6

Oil
Dipstick. Dl-16
Oil
Filter
Dl-13
Oil
Pan.. ...
.......
.Dl-29
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit Dl-15

Oil
Pump Dl-19
Oil
Pump Intake Pipe and Screen Dl-30
Piston and Rod Assembly. Dl-31
Push
Rod and Valve
Lifter.
.Dl-25
Rocker
Arm Cover Dl-23
Starter
Motor Dl-14

Timing
Chain
and Sprocket Dl-22
Timing
Chain
Cover Dl-20

ENGINE CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR
. . ... .Dl-33
Camshaft
Cleaning and Inspection Dl-55
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
and
Fitting .Dl-49

Crankshaft
Cleaning Dl-38
Crankshaft
Inspection and Repair Dl-39
Crankshaft
Main Bearing Cleaning
and
Inspection Dl-41

Crankshaft
Main Bearings. Dl-40

Crankshaft
Pulley Inspection. Dl-70
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Inspection. D1-69

Cylinder
Block .Dl-34
Cylinder
Block Cleaning Dl-35
Cylinder
Block Inspection Dl-36

Cylinder
Block Repair. .Dl-37
Cylinder
Head and Valve Repair .Dl-63

Cylinder
Head and Valve Cleaning
and
Inspection.. . .Dl-62

Flywheel
Cleaning and Inspection Dl-52

Flywheel
Housing Cleaning
and
Inspection Dl-54

Hydraulic
Valve
Lifter
Leakdown Test. .Dl-57
Main
Bearing Fitting or

Shim
Stock Dl-42, Dl-43

Oil
Pan Cleaning and Inspection .Dl-51
PAR.
and
Inspection. .... .Dl-68

Oil
Pump Intake and Screen Cleaning. . .Dl-50
Piston and Rod Assembly.
...........
.Dl-48
Piston and Rod Cleaning and Inspection.D1-45
Piston and Rod Disassembly Dl-44
Piston Fitting Dl-46
Piston Ring Fitting. .Dl-47

Ring
Gear
Replacement. .Dl-53
Rocker
Arm Assembly. Dl-60
Rocker
Arm Cleaning and Inspection. . .Dl-59

Rocker
Arm Cover Cleaning

and
Inspection D1-65

Rocker
Arm Disassembly .Dl-58
Timing
Chain
and Sprocket Inspection. . .Dl-66

Timing
Chain
Cover Cleaning

and
Inspection.. . Dl-67

Valve
Installation D1-64
Valve
Lifter
and Push Rod

Cleaning
and Inspection. . Dl-56

Valve
Removal Dl-61

ENGINE REASSEMBLY
Dl-71
Alternator
and Fan Belt Dl-96

Camshaft
Dl-80
Clutch
and Flywheel Housing Dl-79
Cooling Fan.. . .Dl-95
Crankshaft
End Play Check. . Dl-74

Crankshaft
Front Oil Seal Dl-85
Crankshaft
Pulley Dl-89
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Dl-88
Cylinder
Block and Crankshaft
Rear
Oil Seals Dl-72

Cylinder
Head Assembly .Dl-82

Distributor
Dl-99

Exhaust
Manifold Dl-98
Flywheel
.Dl-78
Fuel
Pump.. .. . Dl-97
Intake
Manifold and Carburetor Assembly Dl-101

Main
Bearing and
Crankshaft
Installation
.
Dl-73

Oil
Filter
Dl-93
Oil
Level
Dipstick Dl-90

Oil
Pan Dl-77
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit Dl-91

Oil
Pump.. .Dl-87
Oil
Pump Intake and Screen Assembly. .Dl-76
Piston and Rod Installation Dl-75

Rocker
Arm Cover. Dl-83

Spark
Plugs.. Dl-100
Starter
Motor Dl-92
Timing
Chain
and Sprocket.
..........
.Dl-84

Timing
Chain
Cover Dl-86
Valve
Lifter
and Push Rod Dl-81

Water
Pump. Dl-94

ENGINE INSTALLATION
Dl-102

FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS.
D1-103

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
Dl-104
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
. .Dl-105 75

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
In
addition to the instructions covering operations
for disassembling the
engine
out of the vehicle, special instructions are given to cover different
operations required when disassembly is
done
with
the
engine
installed.

During
disassembly operations, the
engine
should be mounted in a suitable
engine
repair stand.

Where
practicable, modify or adapt an existing re­

pair
stand as necessary to accommodate the
engine.
If
an
engine
repair stand is not used, take care to

perform
disassembly operations in a manner that
will
protect personnel against an accident and the
engine
and its parts against damage.

Dl-6.
Mounting Engine
On
Engine Stand

Refer
to Fig. Dl-4.
a.
With
the
engine
supported by a hoist, remove
the clutch housing and clutch. Match
mark
the flywheel and the clutch cover before disassembly to assure proper reassembly.
b. Position the
engine
on the
engine
stand.
c. Release
some
tension of the hoist cables and secure
engine
to stand.

d.
Make sure the position lock on the
engine
stand
is tight to prevent the
engine
from accidentally
inverting.

e.
Release the hoist cables.
FIG.
D1
-4—ENGINE
MOUNTED
ON
STAND

1—
Spacer
J-8690-6
A—Bolt,
i/2-NC
x 3i/2"

2—
Bolt,
3/a-NC
x 4*/2" 5—Adapter 21316-J 3—
Engine
Mounting Stand
Dl-7.
Remove Intake Manifold
and

Carburetor Assembly

Disconnect crankcase vent
hose,
distributor vacuum

hose,
and fuel line from carburetor. Disconnect two distributor leads from ignition coil. Disconnect

wiring
harness from coolant temperature sending

unit.
Remove ten cap
bolts
which attach intake
manifold to cylinder heads. Remove intake mani­
fold assembly and gaskets from
engine.

Dl-8. Remove Exhaust Manifold
The
engine
has two exhaust manifolds. Remove five attaching screws, one nut, and exhaust mani­
fold from each cylinder head.

Dl-9.
Remove Distributor

Disconnect vacuum
hose
and wiring harness from

distributor.
Disconnect spark plug cables from
spark
plugs. Remove sparks plugs from
engine.
Pull

spark
plug cable retainers from brackets on rocker

arm
covers. Remove mounting screw, retainer

bracket,
and distributor from timing chain cover.
If
timing chain and sprockets are not to be re­
moved from
engine,
note
position of distributor
rotor so that it can be installed in identical position.

Dl-10. Remove
Fuel Pump
Disconnect output fuel line from fuel pump. Re­
move
two mounting bolts, fuel pump, and gasket

from
timing chain cover.

Dl-11.
Remove Alternator
and Fan
Belt

Disconnect wiring harness from alternator. Remove nut and flat washer which fasten alternator to
adjustment bracket. Pivot alternator
inward,
to­

ward
engine
cylinder block, to relieve fan belt
tension. Remove fan belt from pulleys. Remove
two attaching screws, mounting bracket, and alter­ nator from right cylinder head of
engine.

Dl-12.
Remove Cooling
Fan and
Water Pump

Refer
to Fig. Dl-5.
Remove four cap screws, lock washers, cooling fan,

fan
hub, and fan drive pulley from flange of water
pump shaft. Remove nine attaching screws, water
pump, alternator adjustment bracket, and water pump from timing chain cover.

Dl-13.
Remove
Oil
Filter

Unscrew
oil filter from
engine
oil pump.

Dl-14.
Remove Starter Motor

Disconnect wiring harness from starter motor and
solenoid. Remove two attaching screws, starter motor, solenoid, and motor attaching bracket from

engine
flywheel housing and cylinder block.

Dl-15.
Remove
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit

Disconnect wiring harness from oil pressure send­
ing unit. Remove oil pressure sending unit from

engine
cylinder block.

Dl-16.
Remove
Oil
Dipstick

Withdraw
and remove oil level dipstick and dip­

stick
tube
from
engine
cylinder block.

Dl-17.
Remove Crankshaft Pulley

Remove six attaching screws and crankshaft pulley

from
crankshaft vibration damper. 80

Dl
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

FIG.
Dl-41—WATER
PUMP
AND
TIMING CHAIN COVER BOLT LOCATION
Cover
Bolts

alternately and evenly 8 to 12 lb-ft. [1,10 a 1,66

kg-m.].

Dl-88.
Install
Crankshaft
Vibration
Damper

a.
Lubricate
the vibration damper hub
before
in­
stallation to prevent
damage
to the crankshaft
front oil seal during installation and when the

engine
is first started.
b.
Install
the vibration damper on the crankshaft.
Secure it with its attaching flat washer and screw.

Torque
the screw to a minimum of 140 lb-ft.
[19,35
kg-m.].

Dl-89.
Install
Crankshaft Pulley
Secure the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft

vibration
damper with six screws. Torque screws 18 to 25 lb-ft. [2,5 a 3,4 kg-m.].

Dl-90.
Install
Oil
Level
Dipstick

Insert
oil level dipstick
into
the dipstick tube.

Dl-91.
Install
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit

Install
oil pressure sending unit in cylinder block.
Connect electrical wiring harness to unit.

Dl-92.
Install Starting Motor

Secure starting motor and
solenoid
assembly to
the flywheel housing and cylinder block with two attaching screws. Torque screw, which attaches this
assembly to the flywheel housing, 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.]. Torque screw, which attaches

bracket
to cylinder block, 10 to 12 lb-ft. [1,4 a 1,7 kg-m.].
Dl-93.
Install
Oil
Filter

Install
a new oil filter
element
at oil filter nipple,
at
left
side
of timing chain cover. Torque 10 to 15 lb-ft. [1,38 a 2,07 kg-m.].

D1-94. Install Water Pump
Be
certain that mating surfaces of the water pump

and
timing chain cover are clean.
Install
a new
gasket
on the pump flange. Secure the pump and
alternator adjustment bracket to the cover with
nine attaching bolts. Torque
bolts
6 to 8 lb-ft. [0,83 a 1,10 kg-m.]. Refer to Fig. Dl-41.

D1-9S.
Install
Cooling Fan
Secure the cooling fan, fan hub, and fan drive
pulley to the water pump shaft
flange
with four
attaching screws. Torque screws 17 to 23 lb-ft. [2,35 a 3,18 kg-m.].

Dl-96.
Install
Alternator
and Fan
Belt

Mount the alternator and bracket assembly on
right
cylinder head with two attaching screws.

Torque
screws 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].

Fasten
the alternator
loosely
to its adjustment
bracket
with attaching flat washer and nut.
Install

the fan
belt
on its pulleys. Pivot the alternator
outward,
away from cylinder block, to apply fan

belt
tension. Adjust fan
belt
tension to 80 lb. [36,2 kg.];
tighten
alternator-to-adjustment bracket
nut to secure adjustment
setting.
Connect wiring
harness to alternator.

Dl-97.
Install
Fuel Pump

Install
two mounting
bolts
and new
gasket
on

flange
of fuel pump. Secure pump to timing chain cover with screws; torque screws 17 to 23 lb-ft. [2,35 a 3,8 kg-m.]. Connect
output
fuel line to
pump.

Dl-98.
Install Exhaust Manifold

Secure each of two exhaust manifolds to corre­
sponding cylinder head with five attaching screws,
and
one nut. Torque screws and nut 15 to 20 lb-ft. [2,07 a 2,8 kg-m.]. See Fig. Dl-42.

Dl-99.
Install Distributor

Insert
distributor drive gear
into
distributor mount-
FIG.
Dl-42—EXHAUST
MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

1—Torque
Bolts—15
to 20
lb-ft.
[2,07 a 2,8
kg-m.]

102

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl
Dl-104.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor Fuel Economy
Ignition Timing Late or Spark Advance Inoperative

Carburetor
Float Setting Too High
Accelerator Pump Improperly Adjusted
Fuel
Pump Pressure High

Fuel
Line
Leakage

Fuel
Pump Diaphragm Leakage
Cylinder
Compression Low
Valves Do Not Seat Properly
Spark
Plugs
Defective

Spark
Plug Cables
Defective

Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty

Brakes
Drag
Wheel Alignment Incorrect

Tire
Pressure Incorrect Odometer Inaccurate

Fuel
Tank
Cap Clogged or
Defective

Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent

Lack
of
Power
Cylinder
Compression Low
Ingitdon Timing Late

Carburetor
or
Fuel
Pump Clogged or
Defective

Fuel
Lines Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Valves Do Not Seat Property

Valve
Timing Late Intake Manifold or Cylinder Head
Gasket Leaks
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Spark
Plugs Dirty or
Defective

Breaker
Point Gap Incorrect
Breaker
Points
Defective
Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective

Electrical
Connection Loose
Broken
Valve Spring

Broken
Piston Ring or Piston
Cylinder
Head Gasket
Defective

Distributor Cap Cracked

Low
Compression
Valves Not Seating Properly Piston Rings Seal Poorly
Valve
Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Piston Clearance Too Great

Cylinder
Head Gasket Leaks

Burned
Valves and
Seats
Valves Stick or Are Too Loose in Guides
Valve
Timing Incorrect

Valve
Head and Seat Have Excessive Carbon
Engine Overheats

Valve
Spring Weak or Broken

Valve
Lifter Seized or Collapsed
Exhaust
System Clogged
Valves Sticking

Valve
Stem Warped

Valve
Stem Carbonized or Scored

Valve
Stem Clearance Insufficient in Guide

Valve
Spring Weak or Broken

Valve
Spring Distorted
Oil
Contaminated

Overheating
Cooling System Inoperative
Thermostat Inoperative Ignition Timing Incorrect

Valve
Timing Incorrect
Carbon
Accumulation Excessive

Fan
Belt Loose
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent

Oil
System Failure
Piston Rings Worn or Scored
Popping,
Spitting,
Detonation
Ignition Timing Incorrect

Carburetion
Improper

Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Chambers Excessive
Valves Not Seating Properly
Valve
Spring Broken
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Fuel
Line
Clogged
Valve
Timing Incorrect

Excessive
Oil
Consumption
Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Weak,
Worn,
Broken, or Incorrectly Fitted

Crankshaft
Main Bearings or
Connecting Rod Bearings Have
Excessive Clearance
Gaskets or Oil Seals
Leak

Cylinder
Bores Worn, Scored,
Out-of-Round or Tapered
Pistons Have Too Great Clearance to Cylinder Bores
Connecting Rods Misaligned High Road Speed
High Temperature

Crankcase
Ventilation System Inoperative
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough or Out-of-Round

Oil
Level Low
Oil
Leakage

Oil
Dirty
Oil
Pressure Low or Lacking
(Oil
Pump Failure)

Drilled
Passages
in Crankshaft or
Crankcase
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 105