1953 JEEP CJ length

THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION

FIG.
J-l—TRANSMISSION

REMOTE
CONTROL
CJ-5
A,
CJ-6A

1— Stop Screw
2—
Bias
Spring

3—
Gearshift
Lever
4—
Lever
Ball

5—
Steering
Wheel 6—
Horn
Button 7—
Column
and Bearing
8—
End
Huts
9—
Shift
Rod
Ends

10—
Shift
Rod
11—
Shift
Rod
12—
Cross-Shift
Bracket

13—
Control
Shaft
14—
Lubrication
Fitting
15—
Lever
and
Clutch

16—
Adjusting
Yoke

17—
Aligning
Rod 11706

b.
Remove gearshift lever fulcrum pin and the
gearshift lever.

c.
Remove plates on the toe board at the steer­
ing
post.

d.
Remove two screws holding remote control
housing to the steering
post
and lift the housing
from
the positioning pin.

e.
Remove the assembly down through the floor
pan.

f. Remove the lower clutch and shift lever from the housing by turning counterclockwise.
g. Remove upper clutch and shift lever in the same

manner.

h. Wash all parts in a suitable cleaning solution.

J-5.
Reassembly of
Remote
Control
•
Refer to
Fig.
J-l

Check
clearance of shift dog which
engages
in slot
of clutches, and if found to be greater than .009" [0,229 mm.] clearance, replace the worn parts.
Assemble upper clutch lever assembly in housing
making
sure that the alignment
hole
in the housing
faces toward the engine.
Turn
the upper lever as­
sembly in as far as it
will
go and then back off one

full
turn
until the
hole
in the clutch lever aligns

with
hole
in the housing.
Assemble the lower clutch lever assembly in hous­ ing until faces of clutches contact then back off
not more than one-half
turn
which should bring
the aligning
hole
in the lever in line with the
hole
in
the housing. If the one-half
turn
does
not bring
the alignment
hole
in proper position, it
will
be
necessary to grind off (square with axis not to exceed .015") [0,397 mm.] the face of the lower

clutch;
in other words, backing off not more than
one-half
turn
from face to face contact
gives
the

proper
clearance of .015" to .031"
[0,397-0,794
mm.]

between
the two clutches.
Assemble the unit to the steering
post
in reverse

order
of dismantling and adjust remote control

rods.
After
assembly, if the shift dog catches on the
edge

of the slot in the clutch when moving the lever up

and
down, disconnect the shift rod at the
transmission
end and either lengthen or shorten it
slightly to correct this condition.

J-6.
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
The
following repair procedures given in Par. J-7
through J-ll for the standard
3-speed
transmission
apply
in general to all models listed. Minor dif­
ferences
between
models that affect the procedure

are
noted. Procedure for the optional
4-speed
trans­mission
begins
with Section
J-l.

Removal
is as follows:

a.
Drain
the transmission and transfer case. Re­ place the
drain
plugs.

b.
Remove the floor pan inspection plate.

c.
Remove the shift lever and shift housing as­ sembly and its gasket from the transmission. On 240

J

THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION

FIG.
J-8—SHAFT
LOCK
PLATE
e. Tap lightly on the front end of the countershaft
to loosen the lock plate. Remove the lock plate
from
slots cut in the
rear
ends of the countershaft

and
reverse idler shaft. Refer to Fig. J-8.
f. Using special tool No. W-166 or a brass drift,
drive
the countershaft toward the
rear
of the case

and
remove it. The countershaft gear set
will
drop
to the bottom of the transmission case. If the

special
tool is used, the needle bearing rollers
will
remain
in the countershaft gear hub and the gears

and
bearings may later be removed as an assembly.
g. Remove the mainshaft
rear
bearing adapter.
h.
Remove the mainshaft and gears from the case.

The
mainshaft assembly with the gears
still
in place

may
be removed through the
rear
bearing adapter
opening. Do not
lose
pilot roller bearing when

separating
shafts.

i.
On
early production transmissions drive the main

drive
gear into the case enough to remove the oil
collector. Remove the oil collector from the trans­
mission case.

j.
Remove the main drive gear,
k.
Remove the countershaft gear set and the three

thrust
washers. Remove the washers, needle bear­
ing rollers, and spacer from the assembly. 1, Remove the reverse idler shaft and gear by

driving
the shaft into the case using a brass drift,

m.
This
completes the disassembly of the trans­
mission on
those
models with a cane shift,
n.
On
CJ-5
A
and
CJ-6 A
models equipped with a
remote shift transmission, inspect the poppet and

interlock
assembly which floats between the shift
lever assemblies described in Par. J-9.
FIG.
J-9—COUNTERSHAFT GEAR BEARING ARBOR
FIG.
J-l0—COUNTERSHAFT BEARING SPACERS J-9-
Transmission Interlocking Sleeve

I
inspection

a.
The interlock
sleeve
and poppet assembly should be carefully checked. Should the assembly
be too long, it
will
be impossible to shift gears and

if
it is too short, it
will
fail
to function as an inter­

lock
to prevent shifting into two gears at one time.

Locate
the intermediate-and-high control arm for
second gear position. Use a feeler
gauge
to measure
the clearance between the ends of the interlock

sleeve
and the notched surface of each shift lever
as shown in Fig.
J-l
1.

Clearance
must be from .001" to .007" [0,025 a
0,178 mm.] on each side of the interlock sleeve.

To
obtain correct clearance, interlock
sleeves
are

available
for selective fit.

The
different lengths can be identified by a letter at the end.

1.287"
[3,269 cm.] — etched C

1.291"
[3,279 cm.] — etched B
1.295"
[3,289 cm.] — etched A

1.299"
[3,299 cm.] — no
mark

1.303"
[3,309 cm.] — etched D

Should
an interlock
sleeve
need replacing, proceed
as follows:

Where
necessary drive out the taper retaining pins

from
the bottom of the shift lever bosses. Remove
the nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the

4
FIG.
J-l 1—INTERLOCK
SLEEVE
CLEARANCE

246

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

L
PROPELLER
SHAFTS
AND
UNIVERSAL JOINTS

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL
L-l
Needle
Bearing and Trunnion. . . L-2
Snap Ring Type Assembly L-4
Snap Ring Type Disassembly. . L-3
U-Bolt
Type Assembly L-6

U-Bolt
Type Disassembly .L-5

PROPELLER
SHAFTS
AND
UNIVERSAL JOINTS SPECIFICATIONS
L-7

L-1. GENERAL
The
drive of 'Jeep* 4-wheel-drive Universal
models
from the transfer case to the front and rear axles is through two tubular propeller shafts, each shaft having two cardan cross universal joints. The drive
of 'Jeep' 2-wheel-drive
models
from the trans­mission to the rear axle is through a tubular pro­
peller shaft having two cardan cross universal
joints.
Propeller shafts and universal joints should be
10603

FIG.
L-l—UNIVERSAL JOINTS

1— Snap Ring
2—
Journal

3—
Bearing

4— Dust Cap
5—
Washer

6—
Rear
Tube 7—
Yoke
End
8—
Yoke
End
9—Front
Tube
10—
"U"
Bolt
11—
Retainer
12—
Gasket

13—
"U"
Bolt Nut
14—
Sleeve
15—
Front
Yoke End
16— Flange Yoke checked for foreign matter around the shafts,

dented
or
bent
shafts, and
loose
attaching
bolts.

L-2.
Needle Bearing
and
Trunnion Universal Joint

Each
shaft is equipped with a splined slip joint at one end to allow for variations in
length
caused by vehicle spring action.
Some
slip joints are marked
with arrows at the spline and
sleeve
yoke, Fig.
L-3.
When installing, align the arrows in the
same plane. If unmarked with arrows, align the
yokes
at the front and rear of the shaft in the same

parallel
plane. This is necessary to avoid vibration.

All
the universal joints used are similar in construc­
tion
except
that
some
are of the "U"-bolt
type
and 10315

FIG.
L-2—ARROW MARKINGS
others of the "Snap Ring'* type. This difference
is in the attachment of the joints only. These universal joints have
needle
bearings and

are
so
designed
that correct assembly is a very sim­
ple matter. No hand fitting or special
tools
are

required.

L-3.
Snap Ring Type Disassembly

This
type
joint is illustrated in Fig.
L-l.
To re-

FIG.
L-3—PROPELLER
SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINT

1—
U-Bolt
Nut
2—
U-Bolt
Washer
3—U-Bolt
4—
Universal
Joint Journal 5—
Lubrication
Fitting 6— Snap Ring 7—
Universal
Joint
Sleeve
Yoke
8—
Rubber
Washer
9— Dust Cap
10—Propeller Shaft Tube 11440
275

L

PROPELLER
SHAFTS
AND
UNIVERSAL JOINTS

move
the snap rings, pinch the ends
together
with

a
pair
of pliers. If the rings do not readily snap
out of the groove, tap the end of the bearing lightly
which
will
relieve pressure against the rings.
After
removing the snap rings, press on the end of
one bearing until the
opposite
bearing is pushed
from
the yoke arm.
Turn
the joint over and press
the first bearing back out of that arm by pressing
on the
exposed
end of the
journal
shaft. Use a
soft
ground drift with a flat face about [0,8 mm.]

smaller
in diameter than the
hole
in the yoke arm
and
drive it out, otherwise there is danger of damag­ing the bearing.

Repeat
this operation for the other two bearings,
then lift out
journal
assembly by sliding it to one
side.

L-4.
Snap
Ring
Type Assembly

Wash
all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect the
parte
after cleaning. Replace any parts that indicate
extensive
wear.
It is advisable to install new gaskets
on the
journal
assembly regardless of the condition of the old gaskets. Make certain that the grease

channel
in each
journal
trunnion is open.

Pack
the bearing
cones
one-third
full
of lubricant
and
install the rollers.
Draw
the bearings into the end yoke arm and seat
them firmly against the bearing shoulders. Hold
the bearings in a vertical position to prevent the
needles
from dropping out until the joint is as­ sembled. If the joint binds when assembled, tap
the arms lightly to relieve any pressure on the bear­
ings at the end of the
journal.

L-5.
U-Bolt
Type Disassembly

Removal
of the attaching "U"-bolt releases one set
of bearing races. Slide the propeller shaft into the
yoke flange to remove them using care not to
lose
the rollers.
After
the removal of the one set of bearing races,
release the other set by removing the snap rings

in
the
sleeve
yoke by pinching the ends
together

with
a
pair
of pliers. Should the rings
fail
to snap
readily
from the groove, tap the end of the bearing
lightly,
which
will
relieve the pressure against them.

Press
on the end of one bearing, until the
opposite
bearing
is pushed out of the yoke arm.
Turn
the

universal
joint over and press the first bearing out
by pressing on the
exposed
end of the
journal
as­
sembly. Use a
soft
ground drift with a flat face about
\{i
[0,8 mm.] smaller in diameter than the
hole
in the yoke
arm
and drive out the bearing.
Lift

the
journal
out by sliding to one side.
Clean
all
parts
and check for wear.

L-6.
U-Bolt Type Assembly

Wash
all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect the
parts
after cleaning. Replace any parts that indicate
extensive
wear.
It is advisable to install new gaskets
on the
journal
assembly regardless of the condition
of the old gaskets. Make certain that the grease
channel
in each
journal
trunnion is open.

Pack
the bearing
cones
one-third
full
of lubricant
and
install the rollers.
Draw
the bearings into the end yoke arm and seat
them firmly against the bearing shoulders. Hold the
bearings in a vertical position to prevent the
needles
from dropping out until the joint is as­
sembled. If the joint binds when assembled, tap the arms lightly to relieve any pressure on the
bearings at the end of the
journal.
Tighten the
U-bolts equally. U-bolt torque wrench reading is 15 to 20 lb-ft. [2,07 a 2,76 kg-m.].

When
installing the assembly in the vehicle be sure
that the arrows on the propeller shaft and yoke

sleeve
are in alignment as shown in Fig. L-2, or
that the unmarked joints are aligned with the yokes in the same parallel plane.

SPECIFICATIONS

L-7.
PROPELLER
SHAFTS
AND
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
PROPELLER
SHAFTS:

Make
SPICER

Dimensions:

F4
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5
A
— 3 Speed.
......
4 Speed

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed 4 Speed

CJ-3B
DJ-5
DJ-6.
V-6
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-5
— 4 Speed
Front

Rear

Dimensions:

F4
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5
A
— 3 Speed.
......
4 Speed

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed 4 Speed

CJ-3B
DJ-5
DJ-6.
V-6
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-5
— 4 Speed
O.D.

Length

O.D.
Length

Dimensions:

F4
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5
A
— 3 Speed.
......
4 Speed

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed 4 Speed

CJ-3B
DJ-5
DJ-6.
V-6
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-5
— 4 Speed
1M"
[3,175 cm.]

1M*
[3,175 cm.]

\W
[3,175 cm.]
1M*
[3,175 cm.] [3,175 cm.]

\W
[3,175 cm.]

\W
[3,175 cm.] [3,175 cm.] 22^" [57,78 cm.]

28H"
[72,39 cm.]
22M*
[57,78 cm.]

mW
[72,39 cm.]

33He"
[85,57 cm.]

21W
[55,25 cm.]
21%"
[55,25 cm.]

2&* [68,10
cm.]
IK"
[4,45 cm.]

1M#
[4,45 cm.]

\%"
[4,45 cm.]

\%"
[4, 45cm.]

IW
[4,45 cm.]

1M*
[4,45 cm.]

3*
[7,62 cm.]
2" [5,08 cm.]
2" [5,08 cm.]
l%" [4,45 cm.]
182£"
[45,95 cm.]
WW
[34,131
cm.]

3SJ4*
[97,79 cm.]

33%"
[84,69 cm.] 19546*
[50,64
cm.]
24^"
[61,60
cm.]

44M*
[112,40
cm.]

19%?
[50,64
cm.] 39* [99,06 cm.]

U%"
[37,47 cm.l

UNIVERSAL
JOINTS:
Make
Spicer

Cardan
Cross
Antifriction

Type
Spicer

Cardan
Cross
Antifriction

Bearing
Spicer

Cardan
Cross
Antifriction

276

M
FRONT
AXLE
1— Nut
2—
Lock
Washer

3—
Bearing
Lock
Washer
4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup 5—
Cone
and Rollers
6—
Oil
Seal 7— Spindle
8— Spindle Bushing
9—
Filler
Plug
10—
Right
Knuckle and Arm
11— Shims
12— Pivot Pin
13—
Lock
Washer
14—
Cap
Screw
15— Nut
16—
Washer

17—
Universal
Joint Yoke
18—
Oil
Seal
19—
Oil
Slinger
FIG.
M-2—FRONT
AXLE

20—
Cone
and Rollers
21—
Bearing
Cup
22—
Right
Axle Shaft with Universal Joint
23—
Knuckle
Oil Seal Retainer
24— Housing Breather 25—
Front
Axle Housing
26—
Axle
Shaft with Universal Joint
27—
Oil
Seal
28—
Axle
Shaft Guide
29—
Shim
Pack
30—
Bearing
Cup
31—
Cone
and Rollers
32—
Ring
Gear
and Pinion
33—
Thrust
Washer

34—
Thrust
Washer

35—
Differential
Gears
36— Housing Cover Gasket
37— Housing Cover
38—
Fill
Plug 39—
Screw
and
Lock
Washer
40—
Bearing
Cup
41—
Cone
and Rollers
42— Shims
43—
Lock
Pin
44—
Pinion
Shaft
45—
Differential
Case
47— Bolts
48— Nut
49—
Oil
Seal and Backing Ring
50—
Thrust
Washer
51— Snap Ring
52— Stop Bolt
53— Nut 54—
Bearing
Cup
55—
Cone
and Rollers
56—
Gasket

checked, making sure it is clean and open.

The
front wheel bearings should be checked every
12,000
miles. Refer to Section Q. Front wheel toe-

in
is adjustable by lengthening or shortening the
tie rod. However, standard caster and camber of
the front
wheels
are built
into
the axle. Wheel
caster can be adjusted by placing tapered shim
plates or
wedges
between
the springs and spring

seats
welded to the axle housing. Steering
geometry

and
front wheel adjustments are discussed in Sec­ tion O.

The
axle housing should be checked periodically
for weld cracks and/or other damage that may cause misalignment of the front
wheels
or
loss

of lubricant. The spring clips (U-bolts) should be
inspected and torqued every
12,000
miles. Torque (spring clip) nuts 45 to 50 lb-ft. [6,2 a 6,9 kg-m.].

M-4. FRONT
AXLE
REMOVAL
a.
Raise front end of vehicle
arid
safely support the frame by placing stands under the frame at
the rear of the front spring rear hangers.
b. Place
jack
under front axle housing and relieve
axle
weight
from the springs.
c. Disconnect shock absorbers from spring clip plates.
FIG.
M-3—HUB
CAP
PULLER

d.
Disconnect steering link from tie rod socket-
joint assembly.
e. Disconnect hydraulic brake
hoses
from front

brake
lines. Disconnect
hoses
from frame brackets. 278

N

REAR AXLE
N-l2.
Differential Case
Disassembly

Refer
to
Fig.
N-3 and N-7.

a.
Remove
the
axle shafts. Refer
to
Par.
N-ll for

rear
axle removal
and
Par.
M-4 for
front axle
re­

moval.

b.
Remove
the
housing cover
and
four
cap
screws
holding
the two
differential side bearing caps
in

position. Make sure there
are
matching letters
or
some
type
of
identification marks
on the
caps
and

housing
so
that each
cap can be
reinstalled
in the

same position
and
location from which
it is re­

moved.

c.
Use
Spreader W-129,
as
shown
in
Fig. N-l9,
to

spread
the
housing.
Install
Hold-Down Clamps
W-129-18.
if
available,
to
keep
the
spreader
in
position.
Clamp
on a
dial
indicator.
From
the
side,
measure
the
carrier
spread.
Do not
spread
the
car­
rier
more than
.020"
[0,508
mm.].

d.
Remove
the
dial
indicator.
FIG.
N-19—DIFFERENTIAL
CARRIER
SPREADER

TOOL
W-129

1—
Spreader
W-129

2—
Dial
Indicator
and
Pointer

3—
Dial
Indicator
Clamp
Note:
When removing
the
axle differential from
the
rear
axle housing,
use
Spreader Tool
No.

W-129.

e.
Carefully
pry the
differential case
loose,
using

pry
bars
at the
heads
of the
ring gear
bolts
and

carrier
casting.

f.
Remove spreader immediately
to
prevent
the
possibility
of the
carrier
taking
a set.

g. Remove
the
screws holding
the
ring gear
to the

differential
case.

h.
With
a
small punch,
as
shown in
Fig.
N-20, drive
out
the
lock
pin.
FIG.
N-20—REMOVING
LOCK
PIN

i.
Remove
the
differential shaft
and
thrust block.

Note:
Thrust
block used with semi-float tapered
axle shaft only. Refer
to
Fig.
N-3.

j.
Carefully
so as not to
lose
the
thrust washers,
remove
the
differential pinion gears.

k.
With
Tool C-3281
to
hold
the
shaft
as
shown

in
Fig.
N-21,
remove
the nut.
With
Puller
W-172

remove
the
yoke
as
shown
in
Fig. N-2
2.

I.
Using
a
rawhide hammer, drive
on the end of

the pinion shaft
to
force
the
pinion
out of the

differential
housing.
FIG.
N-21—END
YOKE
HOLDING WRENCH

1— Nut

2—
Wrench
C-3281

3—
Yoke
Note:
Pinion bearing adjusting shims
may
remain
on
the
pinion shaft; stick
to the
bearing which
is
still
in the
housing;
or
fall
out
loose.
These shims
should
be
collected
and
kept
for
reassembly.

m.
Remove outer pinion bearing
cone,
baffle
and

oil
seal
by
using
a 2" x 2"
piece
of
hardwood
or a
length
of
pipe
and
drive
out
through
the
neck
of

the
carrier
housing.
Discard
seal. 294

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O
column assembly down through the floor pan open­
ing and out from under vehicle.
0-24.
Disassembly
of
Steering
Gear
Refer
to Fig. 0-2.

When
the steering gear arm is installed on early
production vehicles, the line across the face of the

arm
and the end of the shaft should be in align­ ment. On later production vehicles, blind splines
on the lever shaft and in the steering gear arm en­

sure
correct positioning of the arm.

a.
Remove the steering gear arm with a puller
C-3646.

Caution:
Do not use a hammer or
wedge
to re­
move
the steering arm from the shaft and lever.

This
can cause damage to the shaft assembly.

b.
Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting

screw
two turns.

c.
Remove the side cover screws and washers. Re­
move
the side cover and gasket.

d.
Remove lever shaft.

e.
Remove upper cover plate screws. Remove cam,
wheel tube, and bearing assembly from the housing.
f.
Clean
all parts with suitable cleaning solvent and wipe dry.

g.
After dismantling as outlined above is com­
pleted, inspect cam
grooves
for wear, chipping and
scoring,
also the
ball
races on the cam ends and the
separate
ball
cups. Existence of any of
these
condi­ tions indicates the necessity for parts replacement.

h.
Inspect the tapered stud mounted on the lever
shaft for flat
spots
and chipping. In the case of
either, replacement is usually advisable. Inspect the
lever shaft for wear and
test
the fit of the shaft in
the bushings.

i.
Inspect condition of the oil seal at outer end of
lever shaft and the bearing at top end of steering
column.

0-25.
Reassembly
of
Steering
Gear
e Refer to Fig. 0-2.
Reassemble all parts to wheel tube in reverse order
of dismantling. Assemble cam, wheel tube and
bearing
assembly in housing, seating the lower

bearing
ball
cup in the housing.
Note:
New plastic retainer type cam bearings are
now available for the Ross steering gears. The new
bearings replace, and are interchangeable with,
the lock ring type cam bearings on gears equipped

with
early type cams.
With
adjusting shims in place, assemble upper
cover and adjust the cam bearings.
Assemble lever shaft in housing and with gasket
in
place assemble the side cover and set adjusting

screw
for a minimum backlash of the studs in the
cam
groove, with the steering gear at the center
point of travel.
When
assembling upper bearing spring and spring
seat in jacket tube make sure that the spring seat
is positioned correctly. It must be installed with
the lengthwise flange down against the bearing and
not up inside of spring coil.

0-26.
Installation
of
Steering
Gear

a.
After the gear has been properly adjusted, as
outlined in Par. 0-5, install steering gear assembly
in
chassis in the reverse order in which it was re­
moved.

b.
After installing the assembly in the vehicle,

jack
up front of vehicle and place the front wheels
in
the straight ahead position.

c.
Temporarily install the steering wheel to locate
the mid-position of the steering gear. To locate the mid-position,
turn
the steering wheel as far to the

right
as possible and then
turn
in the
opposite
di­

rection
as far as possible, noting the total number
of turns.
Turn
the wheel back just ^ of the total movement to place the gear in mid-position.

d.
With
the steering gear in mid-position and the
wheels in the straight ahead position install steer­ ing gear arm on lever shaft with the
ball
end down.

When
installed the line across the face of the arm

and
end of shaft should be in alignment.

0-27.
Steering
Wheel
Installation
•
Refer to Fig. 0-2.

a.
Install
steering wheel and spring on shaft.

Align
scribe marks on shaft and hub of wheel.
b.
Install
steering shaft nut and torque 20 to 25
lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

c.
Install
horn cap. Test horn.
321

p

BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming to
SAE-J1703
specification.

P-7.
Bleeding
Brakes

The
hydraulic
brake system must be bled whenever

a
fluid line has been disconnected or air
gets
into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal.
Air trapped in the system is compressible

and
does
not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake
pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from
air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the
longest
line from the master
FIG.
P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES

1—Bleeder
Screw
cylinder
first, the next
longest
second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least %
full
of hydraulic brake fluid.

To
bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all
dirt

from
around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers in­
structions.
Remove the filler plug and
fill
the master
cylinder
to the lower
edge
of filler neck.
Clean
off

all
bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.

Attach
bleeder
hose
and fixture to right
rear
wheel

cylinder
bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a
turn.

See
Fig.
P-5.
Depress the
foot
pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid
through the line and out of the bleeder
hose
which
carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After
the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed,
fill
the master cylinder reser­
voir
and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed

from
the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and
dirt.

P-8.
Brake Hoses

a.
Hydraulic
lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.

Note:
On
some
vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the
rear
brake line along the inside left
frame
side
rail.
The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.

Should
replacement be necessary make certain the valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical
position. Refer to Fig. P-l.

The
hoses
are the flexible links between the wheels

or
axles and the frame or body. The
hoses
must

withstand
the fluid pressures without expansion
and
must be free to flex during spring deflection
and
wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.

b.
Hydraulic
lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,

chafing,
cracks,
twists and
loose
frame supports.

Hydraulic
tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or
loose
connections);

restrictions
(due to dents or corrosion); and wear (due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.

Avoid
damage to female fittings by supporting fit­
ting with tube nut during removal of assembly.

c.
On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a
new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a
good
seal if reused.

d.
When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose
to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach
opposite
end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid
twists in
hose
when assembling to frame fitting
or
tubing. Hold
hose
end securely with

wrench
while attaching tubing to hose. If
hose
end
clip
is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.

Check
for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.

e.
Check
for any possible contact between front

brake
hose
and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum
turn
position.
Check
for sufficient but not excessive length of
hose
between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from
one extreme
turn
position to the otherl
f.
Check
that there is no possibility of any contact between the
tail
pipe and
rear
brake
hose
under
all
operating conditions.
P-9.
Brake Pedal Adjustment

There
should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod
engages
the master cylinder piston.

This
adjustment is accomplished by shortening or 326