1953 JEEP CJ lights

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

11035

FIG.
H-40—PRESTOLITE STARTING MOTOR—F4 ENGINE 1— End
Plate

2—
Plug

3—
Thrust
Washer
4—
Brush
Plate Assembly 5— Screw
6—
—Lock
Washer
7—
Insulating
Washer
8—
Terminal

9—
Field
Coil
and Pole
Shoe
Set
10—
Frame

11—
Insulating
Washer

12—
Washer

13— Nut 14—
Lock
Washer

15—
Insulating
Bushing

16—
Pole
Shoe
Screw
17— Sleeve Bearing
18—
Drive
End Frame
19—
Intermediate Bearing

20—
Bendix
Drive

21—
Screw

22—
Lock
Washer

23—
Thrust
Washer

24— Key
25—
Armature

26—
Thru
Bolt

27—
Insulator

brush
and
pull
On
a line parallel with the side of
the
brush.
Take
the
reading
just as the spring leaves the
brush.
It is important that the brush spring
tension be kept within the limits specified at the end of this section. If the tension is too low, there

will
be a loss of efficiency from poor brush contact.
Too
great a tension
will
cause excessive brush and
commutator wear. To change the tension, twist the

spring
at the holder with long-nosed pliers,

c.
Worn
brushes should be replaced. Brushes that
are
soldered to the field coil should be unsoldered

and
the
loop
in the field coil lead should be opened.
Insert
the new brush pigtail to its
full
depth in the
loop. The new brush lead should be tightly clinched

in
the terminal and then soldered to make a strong, low-resistance connection.

H-99.
Commutator

Check
the commutator for wear and discoloration.
If
the commutator is rough or worn the armature should be removed and the commutator turned
down in a lathe. A discolored commutator should
be cleaned with carbon tetrachloride. Never use
emery cloth.

H-100.
Armature

Visually
inspect the armature for mechanical
defects
before checking for shorted or grounded
coils. Use a set of
test
probes for testing armature

circuits.
To
test
the armatures for grounds, touch
one point of the
test
probes to a commutator seg­
ment and touch the other point to the core or shaft. Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or
to the brush surface as the arc formed
will
burn

the smooth finish. If the lamp lights, the coil con­ nected to the commutator segment is grounded.
To
test
for shorted armature coils, a growler as
shown-in Fig. H-42 is necessary. The armature is placed against the core and a steel strip is held
on the armature. The growler is then energized 204

UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

t
^

12956

FIG.
H-41—PRESTOLITE
STARTING
MOTOR—V-6
ENGINE

1—
End
Plate
2—
Oiling
Pad

3—
Thrust
Washer
4—
Brush
Plate Assembly 5—
Screw

6—
Lock
Washer 7—
Insulating
Washer
8—
Terminal

9—
Field
Coil
and Pole Shoe

10—Frame
11—
Insulating
Washer
12—
Washer

13— Nut
14
—Lockwasher

15—
Insulating
Bushing
16— Pole Shoe Screw
17—
Bearing,
Outer
18—
Drive
End
Frame
Pinion Housing
19— Intermediate Bearing Housing
20—
Lock
Washer 21—
Screw

22— Bendix Drive
23—
Thrust
Washer

24—Pin

25—
Armature

2 6—Commutator
27—
Thru
Bolt
28—
Insulator

29—
Bearing,
Intermediate
and
the armature rotated slowly by hand. If a
shorted coil is present, the steel strip
will
become
magnetized and
will
then vibrate.
H-101-
Field
Coils

Using
test
probes, check the field coils for both
ground and
open
circuits.

a.
To
test
for ground, place one probe on the motor frame or
pole
piece
and touch the other probe to the field coil terminals. If a ground is present, the
lamp
will
light.
b.
To
test
for
open
circuits, place the probes on
the field coil terminal and on an insulated brush.
If
the light,
does
not light, the coil is
open
circuited.
H-102.
Brush
Holder Inspection

Using
test
probes, touch the insulated brush holder with one probe and a convenient ground on the commutator end head with the other probe. If the
lamp lights, it indicates a grounded brush holder.
H-103.
Starting Motor Reassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.

a.
When assembling absorbent bronze bearing
found in the end plate and drive end frame, always
use the proper arbor
designed
to
give
the proper
bearing fit. Soak the bearings in oil
before
assem­
bling in the bearing bore. Give the bearing
seats

a
light coating of oil.

Note:
At assembly, the outer pinion housing bear­
ing must be flush with the bearing bore on the inside of the housing; the intermediate bearing
must be flush with the bearing bore on the side
toward the armature.

b.
Brushes should be correctly installed and con­
nected as outlined in Par. H-98 in order to be sure
of proper starting motor efficiency.
c. Assemble the armature bearing plate and Bendix

Folo-Thru
Drive to the drive end frame.
Install
the two holding cap screws and lock washers. Tighten them securely. 205

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
H-111.
Brushes

Check
brush length. If brushes are worn to one-

half
their original length, replace them. Also check
for
cracks,
chips, damaged mounting holes, oil

saturation,
or other damage; replace brushes.

H-112.
Commutator

Check
the commutator for wear and discoloration.
If
the commutator is rough or worn the armature
should be removed and the commutator turned
down in a lathe. A discolored commutator should
be cleaned with carbon tetrachloride and inspected.

Scratches
on the commutator may be removed

with
sand paper. Use compressed air to remove

sand
particles after cleaning.

H-113.
Armature

Visually
inspect the armature for mechanical

defects
before checking for shorted or grounded
coils. Use a set of
test
probes for testing armature

circuits.
To
test
the armature for grounds, touch
one point of the
test
probes to a commutator
seg­
ment and touch the other point to the core or shaft.
Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or
to the brush surface as the arc formed
will
burn
the smooth finish. If the lamp lights, the coil con­
nected to the commutator
segment
is grounded.

H-114.
Field
Coils

Using
test
probes, check the field coils for both ground and open circuits. To
test
for ground, place
one probe on the motor frame or
pole
piece and
touch the other probe to the field coil terminals.
If
a ground is present, the lamp
will
light.

To
test
for open circuits, place the probes on the
field coil terminal and on an insulated
brush.
If
the light
does
not light, the coil is open circuited.

H-115.
Brush
Holder Inspection

Inspect
brush
holders for distortion, wear, and other
damage.
Check
that brush holders pivot freely on

their
pivot pins.
Check
brush spring tension with

a
spring scale. Hook the spring scale under the
brush
holder at the brush and
pull
on a line
paral­

lel
to the side of the
brush.
Note
scale reading just
as brush leaves commutator. Tension must be 35 oz. [9,925 kg.] minimum. Replace brush springs
if
tension is insufficient.

H-116.
Solenoid
Coils

Check
solenoid coil as follows:

a.
Remove screw from motor terminal of solenoid

and
bend field coil leads away from terminal.
Con­
nect terminal to ground with a heavy jumper wire.
See
Fig.
H-48.

b.
Connect a 12-volt battery, a high-current
vari­

able resistance, and an ammeter of 100 amperes

capacity
in series
between
S terminal of solenoid

and
ground; battery negative is to be connected
to ground. Connect a heavy jumper wire from
solenoid base to ground terminal of battery.
Con­

nect a voltmeter
between
base of solenoid and

small
S terminal of solenoid. Refer to Fig. H-48.
12455

FIG.
H-48—TEST CONNECTIONS,
STARTER
SOLENOID
COIL
1— S
Terminal

2—
Solenoid

3—
Ground
Connection 4—Voltmeter 5—Ammeter
6—
12-Volt
Battery
7—
Ground
Connection*
c.
Slowly decrease resistance until voltmeter
read­

ing increases to 10 volts.
Note
ammeter reading.

This
is current drawn by both windings in
parallel
;

it
should be 42 to 49 amperes at 10 volts, with solenoid at room temperature.

d.
Disconnect jumper wire from motor terminal
of solenoid. Increase resistance until voltmeter

reads
10 volts;
note
ammeter reading.
This
is
cur­

rent
drawn by hold-in winding only; it should be 10.5 to 12.5 amperes at 10 volts, with solenoid at
room temperature.
e. If solenoid windings do not rest within specifi­ cations given, replace solenoid switch assembly.

H-117.
Starting Motor Reassembly

a.
Lubricate
shift lever linkage and fasten in drive housing with lever stud.

Caution:
Do not lubricate solenoid plunger or solenoid cylinder.

b.
Install
return spring on solenoid plunger and

insert
plunger into solenoid cylinder. Apply sealing
compound on both sides of solenoid flange where it

extends
between
drive housing and field frame.

Attach
plunger to shift lever with fulcrum pin.

Fasten
solenoid to drive housing with two mount­
ing screws.

c.
Lubricate
armature shaft with silicone grease.
Install
assist spring and drive assembly on shaft

with
pinion outward.

d.
Install
pinion
stop
retainer on armature shaft

with
recessed side outward. Place a new snap ring on drive end of shaft and hold it in place with a
hard
wood block. Strike block with hammer to
force snap ring over end of shaft; slide the ring
down into
groove
in shaft. See Fig. H-49, left hand view. 209

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
H-124. Testing Indicators and Gauges

Two
gauges
(fuel and temperature) and two in­ dicators (oil pressure and battery charge) that are
located in the instrument cluster are electrically operated.

The
fuel
gauge
is connected by a single wire to a
float-and-slide-rheostat sending unit in the fuel
tank.

The
temperature
gauge
is connected by a single

wire
to a resistance-type sending unit mounted on the engine.

The
battery charge indicator operates when there
is a difference in potential
between
the generator
and
the battery
.The
battery charge indicator lights
when the generator is not charging the battery. The
indicator
light
goes
out when the generator
begins

to charge the battery.

The
oil pressure indicator is connected by a single

wire
to a diaphragm switch located on the engine.
When
engine
oil pressure is low or zero and the
ignition switch is on, the oil pressure indicator
will

light. When
engine
speed is increased slightly above idle speed, raising the oil pressure to approximately 6 psi. [0,2 kg-cm2], the diaphragm switch
will
open the circuit and the indicator light
will
go out.

A
voltage
regulator maintains a constant
voltage
to the
gauges
in normal operation. On early vehicles,
this
voltage
regulator was mounted on the
rear
of
the instrument cluster. On current vehicles, the
voltage
regulator is integral with the fuel
gauge.

Should
trouble
develop
in the
gauges,
first check the regulator (fuel
gauge
on current production vehicle). If the
voltage
to the regulator is below 10 volts system low
gauge
readings
will
result.
Voltage in
excess
of 16 volts
will
not affect
gauge

readings but may result in premature wear of the
regulator contacts. If the
voltage
to the regulator is

within
the above limits, check the electrical con­ nections to the regulator (or fuel gauge), especially
the ground connection. If the readings of all the
gauges
is too high, or they all read too low, replace
the regulator (or fuel gauge).

If
the temperature
gauge
or heat indicator in the
instrument cluster have failed, the cause may
originate from the jumper bar shorting out against the instrument case.
Check
the jumper bar
between

the temperature
gauge
and heat indicator at the

rear
of the instrument case. On later production vehicles, the jumper bar is covered with an in­
sulating
sleeve
to protect it from shorting out
against the instrument case. If the jumper bar

does
not have this
sleeve,
either install one or

wrap
the bar with plastic electrical tape to
half

an
inch [12,7 mm.] from each end. When installing the jumper bar, be sure the curved
segment
is
closest to the fuel
gauge.

Should
only one of the two
gauges
register incor­
rectly,
check the lead wire from the
gauge
to the
sending unit for shorts or open connections. Next disconnect the
gauge
from the sending unit, and
connect the
gauge
to a new fuel tank sending unit

which
has been grounded to the vehicle.
If
the
gauge
registers incorrectly when operating the new unit,
replace the
gauge;
if correctly, replace the sending

unit.

Should
a new fuel tank unit not be available for testing, use a 12-volt
test
light in its place. When
the
gauge
is operating correctly, the pointer
will

move
approximately three-quarters across the
dial.

On
some
vehicles, the temperature
gauge
may
register on or
close
to the H (hot)
mark
when
coolant temperature is
190°F.
to
200°F.
[88°C.
a

93°C.].
In such cases, a 25-ohm,
1-watt
resistor
may be installed on the temperature
gauge
which

will
place the pointer just beyond the center
mark
at a coolant temperature of
190°F.
to
200°F.
Install

the resistor
between
the two terminals on the back
of the
gauge.
Insulate the
exposed
leads of the resistor with electrical tape.

If
the oil pressure indicator
does
not indicate cor­

rectly,
first check the light bulb. Next check all
connections and lead wires. If, after all possible

defects
are corrected, the indicator light
does
not go on and off properly, then the diaphragm type
switch in the cylinder block should be replaced.

H-12S.
LIGHTING SYSTEM The
wiring of the lighting systems is shown in
the wiring diagrams, which indicate the various units in relation to their positions in the vehicle.
The
wires in the various circuits are of different
colors or are marked by tracers to aid when check­
ing individual circuits.

The
lighting circuits of all models are protected by

an
overload circuit breaker mounted on the back of the main light switch and no replaceable fuse is
required.

The
upper and lower headlight beams are con­
trolled by a
foot
switch located on the toe board
to the left of the clutch pedal.
H-126.
Main
Light
Switch

This
switch is a dual functioning unit having two

push-pull
positions and a rotary action. When
pulled out to the first position, the front parking
and
tail
lights are turned on. When pulled all the
way out to the second position, the headlights and
tail
lights are turned on. Rotating the switch to
the right dims the instrument cluster lighting.

The
switch may be removed from the instrument
panel by first loosening the set screw in the control
knob and removing the knob. The retaining nut may then be removed and the switch removed
through the
rear
of the instrument panel.
FIG.
H-51—MAIN
LIGHT
SWITCH
(EARLY)

1—
Battery
4—Parking Lights
2—
Rear
Lights 5—Auxiliary

3—
Head
Lights
212

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
H

FIG.
H-52—MAIN
LIGHT SWITCH (LATE)
1—
Circuit
Breaker

2—
Light
Switch

3—
Rear
Lights

4—
Head
Lights
5—
Parking
Lights
The
light switch shown in
Fig.
H-51 was superseded
by the one shown in
Fig.
H-52.

H-127.
Headlight Dimmer Switch To
remove the headlight dimmer switch, first raise
the hood and disconnect the wires attached to the

switch.
Then
remove the two screws that hold the

dimmer
switch to the floor board. Remove the

switch.
Check
the operation of the dimmer switch

with
a
test
light. A
circuit
across two different pairs of contacts (one to headlights, the other to the
high-beam indicator light) should alternately light
the
test
lamp when the switch is operated.
H-128.
Stop Light Switch
The
stop
light switch is of the diaphragm type.

Should
the switch
become
inoperative, it is neces­

sary
to install a new one.
Current
production vehicles are equipped with two
stop
light switches
that operate independently of each other. Both
switches are located along the
left
side of frame, in the front and
rear
brake lines.

Caution:
Do not apply the brakes while making
this exchange as air may enter the hydraulic line.
Bleed
the brakes after replacing the switch.

Fig.
H-54 shows the wiring of the
stop
light
circuit.
11500

FIG.
H-53—STOP
LIGHT SWITCH
FIG.
H-54—STOP
LIGHT CIRCUIT

1— Stop
Light
Switch
2—
Light
Switch

3—
Tail
Light
H-129. Head Lamp Service

H-130.
Head Lamp Replacement

Refer
to Fig. H-59.

Each
sealed beam head lamp can only be replaced as a
complete
unit.

A
sealed beam unit may be replaced by the fol­ lowing procedure:

a.
Remove door screw.

b.
Remove door.

c.
Remove retaining screws and retaining
ring.

d.
Remove sealed beam unit.
Installation
of sealed beam unit is the reverse of
above procedure. When replacing head lamps,

check
lamp aim following procedures described in

Par.
H-132.

FIG.
H-55—PARKING
LIGHT (EARLY)

1—
Bezel

2—
Lens

3—
Bulb

4—
Gasket
5—
Housing
and Cable

6—
Screw
213

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
H
FIG.
H-59—HEAD LAMP

1—
Door

2—
Retaining
Screw

3—
Retaining
Ring

4—
Sealed
Beam
Unit
5—
Mounting
Ring

6—
Adjusting
Screw 7—
Housing

8—
Wires

9—
Door
Screw 310669
to cross the vertical
tapes
at the measured height
of each lamp center respectively.

g.
Remove the head lamp doors.
h.
Clean
the head lamps.

H-132.
Aiming Head Lamps

a.
Turn
the headlights on low beam. Cover the lamp not being aimed. Be sure to use the horizontal reference line on the screen that is the same dimen­
sion as the vehicle lamp height.
b.
Turn
the vertical aiming screw counterclock­
wise until the lamp beam is considerably lower

than
the horizontal reference line on the screen.
Then,
turn
the screw clockwise until the top
edge

of the high intensity
area
is even with the horizontal

line.
See Fig. H-60.
I
(T)

JT)

1'.'' | '':'
11460

FIG.
H-60—HEADLIGHT AIMING
CHART
1—
Vertical
Tape,
Left
Lamp
Center

2—
Vehicle
Centerline

3—
—Vertical
Tape,
Right
Lamp
Center
4—
Zone
of Greatest Intensity
5—
2
*
(Two Inches)
6— 25'0
'
7—
2
*
(Two Inches)
8—
Height
of
Lamp
Centers
9—
Horizontal
Tape

Note:
Always bring the beam into final position
by turning both aiming screws clockwise so that
the unit is held under proper tension when the operation is complete.

c. Turn
the horizontal aiming screw counterclock­
wise until the beam is off.
Then,
turn
the same
screw
clockwise until the
left
edge
of the high
intensity area is 2" [5,08 cm.] to the right of the
lamp center line. See Fig. H-60.

d.
Cover the lamp that has been aimed and aim
the other lamp using the same procedure.
e.
Carefully
reinstall the head lamp doors.

H-133.
Parking
and
Turn Signal Light
The
parking lights are mounted in the radiator

guard
panel just below the headlights. These lights

are
on only when the main switch control knob is
pulled
out to the first notch.

To
replace a parking lamp, remove two screws allowing the lens and colored reflector to be re­
moved. Replace the lamp, which is recessed back

in
the housing.

If
the
complete
parking light assembly is to be
removed for service or replacement, disconnect the

wire
plug at the back of the housing.
Then
remove
the nuts and lock washers securing the parking light assembly and remove out the front of the

panel.

H-134. Tail, Stop
and
Turn Signal Light

Refer
to Fig. H-57 and H-58.

The
tail
lights are mounted in the
rear
corner
posts

of the body. They are on whenever the main switch
control
knob is pulled out to any position.

a.
To replace a lamp, remove the snap ring on

early
models
and remove the lens; on late
models
remove lens screws, lens and gasket.
Clean
lens
and
reflector before replacing.
b. To remove the parking and
tail
light housing,
disconnect wiring, remove the two nuts and lock
washers securing
tail
light assembly to body and remove from
rear
of body.

H-135-
Backup Lights •
Refer to Fig. H-61.

The
backup lights on late production vehicles are located on the
rear
of the vehicle directly below
the
tail
light. The backup lights are actuated
through a switch when the ignition is on and the

transmission
is in reverse. 215

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
cuit
lights,
the
signal switch
is
inoperative
and

must
be
replaced.

H-139.
Hazard
Warning Lights

All
current production vehicles
are
equipped with

a
four-way flasher warning system.
The
control switch
is
located
on the
instrument panel left
of

the steering column.
With
the
switch pulled
out,
the
two
front and
two
rear
turn
signal lights flash
on and
off
simultaneously,
as do
both
turn
signal

indicator
lights
on the
instrument clusters.
H-140.
Marker
Lights and Reflector Assembly

The
marker
lights
and
reflector assemblies
on

current
production vehicles
are
mounted
on the

side
of
the front fender and
on the
side
of
the
rear
quarter
panel.
The
spare wheel also mounts
a

marker
light. Some earlier production vehicles have
reflex reflectors mounted on the side of the hood and
on
the
side
of
the
rear
quarter panel. determine
if
dash wiper switch or wiring
is at
fault,
disconnect wiring harness from wiper motor
and

try
operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If
still
inoperative
see
procedure under
Par.
H-145.
b. Wiper
will
not
shut
off
— Determine
if
wiper
has both
low
and high speeds, slow speed only,
or

high speed only.
It is
important that
the
wiper
operates
at low
speed during parking cycle.
Dis­
connect wiring harness from wiper motor
and try

operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If

wiper
shuts
off
correctly with
crank
arm
in
park
position and wiper has both speeds, check
the
lead

between
terminal
and
dash switch ground
and

check
for
defective dash switch.
If
wiper shuts
off

correctly,
but has
high speed only, check lead
be­

tween wiper terminal and dash switch
for an
open

circuit
and check
for
defective dash switch.
If
still

inoperative,
see
Par. H-145.
c. Wiper
has
only fast speed.
Check
for
defective dash switch
or
open lead
between
terminal
and

dash switch.

H-141.
Windshield Wiper System

Early
production vehicles equipped with
the
Dauntless V-6
engine
have
two
single speed wind­
shield wiper motors mounted above
the
windshield inside
the
vehicle. The wiper motors
are
operated

and
controlled
by a
switch located
on the
instru­
ment panel.

Current
production vehicles with stationary wind­
shield have
a
two-speed
electric windshield wiper motor mounted below
the
windshield outside
the

vehicle on the driver's side. The wiper motor switch is located
on the
instrument panel
to the
left
of

the steering column.

H-142.
Two-Speed Wiper Motor

The
two-speed
electric wiper motor
is
operated and
controlled
by a
turn
type, three poled, dash switch,
containing
a 6
amp. circuit breaker.
Current
flow
is directed from
the
battery through
the
ignition
switch
to the
wiper dash switch assembly
to the

two-speed
wiper motor, which passes current from the designated motor brush (high,
low or
park)
to

the armature circuit
to
ground.

H-143.
Troubleshooting Procedure
Troubleshooting procedures
are
divided into
two

categories: wiper troubleshooting
in
vehicle; wiper
troubleshooting
on
bench.
Fig. H-65 and H-66

illustrates connecting leads
of the
two-speed
wiper for either bench operation
or to run
wiper inde­
pendently
of
dash switch and vehicle wiring when
installed
in the
vehicle.
H-144. Wiper Troubleshooting
in
Vehicle

Typical
wiper troubles and remedies are
as
follows
:

a.
Wiper
is
inoperative
—
Check
wiper switch
cir­

cuit
breaker; wiring harness connection
at
wiper
motor
and
wiper switch; wiper motor
feed
wire

from
ignition starter switch
to
wiper switch;
and
check wiper
on
switch
to be
securely mounted.

With
ignition switch
on,
check
for 12
volts
at
har­

ness
terminal that connects
to
wiper terminal.
To
BLACK
PARK

GREEN *-
RED m~
LOW
PARKING
<^^>

SWITCH
V^-O*'
HIGH

FIG.
H-64—WIRING
DIAGRAM

FIG.
H-65—WINDSHIELD
WIPER
SWITCH
ASSEMBLY
(EARLY)
1.
Park
(black)
2. Low (green)

3.
High (red)
d.
Wiper
has
only slow speed
and
shuts
off
with
dash switch in high speed position. Reverse harness
leads that connect
to
wiper terminals.

e. If
blades
do not
return
to
park
position when

wiper
is
turned
off,
check wiper ground connection
to vehicle body. Remove wiper from vehicle
and

check
for
dirty, bent,
or
broken
park
switch con­
tacts.

f.
If
wiper speed
is
normal
in
slow,
but too ex­
cessive
in
fast speed, check for an open terminal. 217

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM H-15L SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS

Battery
Discha
rged: Shorted
Cell
in Battery......... Short in Wiring..
•
Generator Not Charging ,
Loose or Dirty Terminals
Excessive Use of Starter Excessive Use of Lights...... Insufficient Driving.........

Low
Regulator
Setting.......

Stuck
Cut-out in Regulator. ..

Low
Electrolyte
Level
in Cells

Alternator:
FAILS
TO
CHARGE:
Belt Loose Open or High Resistance in

Charging
or Ground Return
Circuit
or Battery Connections............
Excessively Worn, Open, or
Defective
Brushes.
Open Isolation
Diode.

Open Rotor (Field
Coil)

LOW
OR
UNSTEADY
CHARGING RATE:
Belt Loose.... Intermittent or High Resistance
Charging
or Ground Return
Circuit
or Battery Connections
Excessively Worn, Sticky, or Intermittent Brushes
Shorted or Open Rectifier
Diode
Grounded
or Shorted
Turns
in Rotor (Field
Coil)

Open,
Grounded, or Shorted
Turns
in
Stator

EXCESSIVE
CHARGE RATE:
Loose Connections on Alternator...........

Faulty
Regulator

NOISY
ALTERNATOR:
Defective
or Badly Worn Belt
Misaligned Belt or Pulley
Loose Pulley
Worn
Bearings.
Shorted Rectifiers

Generator:
Low
Charging Rate—
Dirty
Commutator
Poor Brush Contact.
................
Regulator Improperly Adjusted.......

High
Resistance in Charging
Circuit...
Ground
Strap Engine to Frame Broken
Loose or Dirty Terminals Slipping Generator Belt

Worn
Out Brushes

Weak
Brush Spring Tension..........

Out
of Round Commutator
PROBABLE REMEDY

Replace Battery

Check
Wiring
Circuit

Inspect Generator and Fan Belt
Clean
and Tighten

Tune
Engine

Check
Battery
Recharge Battery
Correct
Setting

Correct
Add
Distilled Water
Tighten to
Specifications
Test
and Correct
Test
Brushes and Replace if Necessary

Test
and Replace if Necessary
Test
and Replace if Necessary
Tighten to
Specifications

Test
and Correct
Test
and Replace if Necessary
Test
and Replace if Necessary

Test
and Replace if Necessary

Test
and Replace if Necessary

Check
and Correct

Check
and Correct
Replace

Align,
Replace Parts as Necessary Tighten Replace Bearings as Necessary
Test
and Replace as Necessary

Clean
Commutator
Repair
or Install New Brushes

Adjust

Clean
and Tighten Terminals Replace

Clean
and Tighten

Adjust
Belt
Install
New Brushes
Replace
Repair
220