1953 JEEP CJ alternator

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM DC
ammeter — 0 to 60 ampere

DC
ammeter — 0 to 5 ampere

DC
voltmeter — 0 to 16 volt
Rheostat — 40 ohm capable of
handling
3 amps.

Carbon
Pile — 45 amperes

b.
Diode Rectifier Tester C-3829.

c.
12-volt DC
test
lamp.

d.
Ohmmeter of any commercial type is not ab­solutely necessary but can be helpful.

H-69.
Isolation Diode
Check

With
the ignition key in the off position the correct voltage at the auxiliary terminal is zero volts. If
voltage measured at auxiliary terminal is the same as voltage at output terminal, the isolation diode
is shorted. In most cases, the charge indicator lamp
would be glowing with the ignition off if the isola­ tion diode were shorted. Refer to Fig. H-23.
GREEN

DC
VOLTS
13401

FIG.
H-23—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-
SHORTED DIODE
With
the engine running the correct voltage at the

auxiliary
terminal is 15.4 volts and at output ter­

minal
is 14.4 volts. If voltage of auxiliary terminal
is 15.4 volts, while at output terminal it is 12 volts

or
battery voltage, the isolation diode is open. In
most cases, this would be indicated by the charge

GREEN

TO
CHARGE
INDICATOR
LAMP1

15.4
VOLTS BLACK
VOLT

REG DC
VOLTS

BATTERY

DC
VOLTS
FIG.
H-24—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-

OPEN DIODE
indicator
lamp glowing when the engine is running.

Refer
to Fig. H-24.

If
the isolation diode is shorted or open, the heat

sink
and diode should be replaced as an assembly.

At
the time of manufacture, the diode is pressed into the heat sink and the complete assembly is in­
sulated from the alternator housing.

H-70.
Alternator Output Test

This
test
excludes the regulator from the alternator
system, thereby isolating the problem to either the regulator or alternator. Disconnect field and voltage regulator plug and
connect jumper from auxiliary terminal to field

terminal.
Start
engine and run at idle. Refer to

Fig.
H-25.
DC
VOLTS

13403

FIG.
H-25—ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
TEST
If
voltage at auxiliary terminal rises to 15 or 16
volts now, when it did not with voltage regulator
connected, then defect is in regulator and it should
be replaced. If voltage
does
not rise at auxiliary

terminal,
defect is in alternator stator or rectifier diodes, if field circuit checked out properly. For
defects
in stator or diodes, remove alternator from vehicle.

If
rated current output is obtained with at least 13
volts but less than 15 volts at the output terminal,
the alternator is functioning properly.

Caution:
Do not exceed rated current output of
alternator
by increasing load on alternator.

If
rated
current
output cannot be obtained, proceed

with
the
tests
and checks given in the following
paragraphs
and isolate the cause.
Note: The system is designed to produce slightly
more output at low operating temperatures and less
at higher temperatures to accommodate the
varying
demands of electrical power normally consumed at

these
temperatures.

H-71.
Regulator Test

The
regulator should be checked with an alternator
that is functioning properly. If the alternator is questionable, perform the Alternator Output Test
(Par
H-70) which excludes the regulator from the

charging
system and, therefore,
tests
the condition
of the alternator alone. 196

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
H-72.
Removal
and
Installation
of

Voltage Regulator

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed unit.
It
cannot be disassembled or adjusted. If found to
be defective in any way, it must be replaced as
a
unit.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is mounted on
the fender dust shield by three mounting screws.

Wiring
connections to the charging circuit are made through a three-prong connector.

To
remove the regulator, disconnect the three
-
prong connector and remove the three mounting

screws.
Installation of the regulator is the reverse
of the removal. (Refer to Fig. H-26.)
FIG.
H-26—VOLTAGE
REGULATOR

H-73.
Alternator Field Circuit Test

Voltage
Test — Refer to Fig. H-27.

a.
With the ignition key on and
engine
not
run­
ning,
the correct
voltage
at the auxiliary terminal is
approximately 1.5 volts. If the
voltage
at auxiliary

terminal
is higher than 2 volts, field circuit is defective — check brushes.
GREEN

13404

FIG.
H-27—FIELD
CIRCUIT TEST—VOLTAGE If
voltage
reads zero volts at auxiliary terminal,
check charge indicator lamp and associated circuit.
If
this
voltage
is not correct, continue with the fol­
lowing
test
described in paragraph b.
Amperage Test — Refer to Fig. H-28. b.
This
test
evaluates complete field circuit, inde­
pendent of
voltage
regulator.
Circuit
is through
brushes, slip rings, rotor to ground. With ignition switch off, current should be 2 to 2.5 amps. If
less

than
this, check brushes and slip rings. It is de­

sirable
to use a field rheostat in series with meter
for protection of the meter. If field is shorted, ex­
cessive current
will
flow through meter and dam­
age may result.
GREEN
FIELD
WIRE

DISCONNECTED

13405

FIG.
H-28—FIELD
CIRCUIT TEST- AMPERAGE
DRAW
H-74.
Brush Removal
and
Inspection

Refer
to Fig. H-29.

The
brushes can be removed and inspected while
the alternator is in the vehicle.

a.
Disconnect the plug to the field terminal. b. Remove the two screws and brush cover.
c. Remove brushes.
d.
Inspect brushes for excessive wear and proper
tension. The brushes can be installed by reversing
the above procedure.

H-75.
Brush Insulation
and
Continuity Test

Refer
to Fig. H-30.

a.
Connect leads of a 12-volt
test
lamp to field
FIG.
H-29—BRUSH
REMOVAL

1—
Screw

2—
Cover

3—
Brush
and
Holder
Assembly
4—
Alternator
197

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
terminal
and bracket. Test lamp should not light.

If
it
does,
the
brush
is shorted and must be replaced,
b.
Connect one lead of an ohmmeter to field ter­

minal
and the other lead to insulated brush. Re­
sistance reading should be zero. Move brush and

brush
lead wire to make certain that the brush lead wire connections are not intermittent. Resist­
ance reading should not vary when brush and lead

wire
are being moved.

C.
Connect ohmmeter leads to bracket and grounded brush. Resistance reading should be zero.
Repeat same
test
on brush lead wire as described

in
step
b above.
FIG.
H-30—INSULATION
AND
CONTINUITY

TEST
POINTS
1^-Brackct

2—
Field
Terminal

3—
Grounded
Brush

4—
Insulated
Brush

H-76.
Rotor
In-Vehicle
Tests

a.
Reference Par. H-73, Fig. H-28.
b.
To check for a short circuit in the rotor wind­
ings, the alternator should be removed. Refer to

Par.
H-79 for rotor bench
tests.

H-77.
ALTERNATOR
BENCH
TESTS

When
the various
tests
given in
Par.
H-69 through
H-76 have determined a fault within the alternator itself, the alternator should be removed from the vehicle and the following
tests
given in
sequence

to isolate the trouble to a particular
component

of the alternator.
Note
that certain
tests
can be
performed after the alternator is removed and
before
it is disassembled.

H-78.
ALTERNATOR
REMOVAL
Note:
Brushes and isolation
diode
can be removed

from
alternator without removing unit from vehicle.

a.
Disconnect all lead connections at alternator.
b.
Remove nut and
bolt
at alternator support

bracket.
Remove nut, bolt, washer, and adjustment

bracket.
Remove belt from alternator pulley. The alternator is now free to be removed from the
vehicle.

H-79.
Rotor Tests
—
Bench

This
test
checks the condition of the rotor (field coil) for
open
or shorted field winding, excessively

worn
or sticky brushes, and
open
connections. It should be performed with the brush assembly in­
stalled in the alternator.

a.
The field coil is checked for a short circuit
by connecting a fully charged battery and an ammeter in series with the two slip rings.

A
rheostat is placed in series in the
circuit
to protect
the instruments and
components
of the alternator. Set rheostat to maximum resistance (40 ohms)

before
making connections.

b.
Slowly reduce resistance of rheostat to zero.

Then
take reading on ammeter. With full battery
voltage
applied to the field coil, the field current
of the 35-amp. alternator should be 1.7 to 2.3 amp.

Note:
The field current of the 40 and 55 amp.
alternator should be 1.8 to 2.4 amps with full battery
voltage
applied to the field coil.
c.
Turn
rotor by hand, noting reading. Rotating
rotor
will
indicate if brushes are making
good
elec­

trical
contact. A slight fluctuation of reading (0.2

amp.)
is to be expected.
If
field current is not within limits, inspect brushes

and
slip rings for
excessive
dirt, sticky, or broken
brushes, and bad connections.
Check
brush as­ sembly for short and continuity (Par. H-75). Make
same
test
to slip rings. Reinstall repaired or known
good
brush assembly and repeat
test.
If
the field current is
above
the maximum value
specified, it indicates that the field coil is either
shorted to rotor or field coil has shorted windings.
If
the field current is zero, it indicates that the field

coil
or coil-to-slip ring connection is open. If the field
current
is considerably
less
than the value
specified, it indicates a poor coil-to-slip ring con­ nection or poor brush-to-slip ring connection.

d.
To check continuity of the rotor, disconnect the
battery and connect an ohmmeter directly across
the field. Resistance
between
field terminal and ground terminal should be approximately 6 ohms.
If
resistance is high, field coil is shorted.

e.
If rotor is found to be
defective
in
above
tests,
repeat the
above
tests
when the rotor is removed

from
the alternator by connecting the
test
circuit
to rotor slip rings to ascertain findings.
Field
current

will
be approximately 0.2 amp. higher than the
maximum
value because of the normal brush-to-

slip-ring
contact resistance that reduces field
current
slightly. If the rotor is found to be de­
fective, it should be replaced.

H-80.
Alternator Disassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-31.

a.
Remove brush assembly by removing two tap­ ping screws and cover. Then pull the brush as- 198

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H

©
© © ® (a
1—
Bolt

2— Cap
Screw

3—
Brush
Assembly
Cover

4—
Brush
Assembly
5—
Locknut

6—
Isolation
Diode 7— Nut
8—
Insulated
Washer
9—
Rear
Housing

10—Slip
Ring
FIG.
H-31—ALTERNATOR

11—
Insulated
Washer 12— Negative Diode Assembly
13—
Positive Diode Assembly
14—
Stator

15—
Rear
Bearing 16—
Rotor
17—
Retaining
Clip

18—
Front
Bearing
19—
Front
Housing
20— Nut 11485
21—
Fan
22—
Pulley

23—
Lock
Washer
24— Nut 25—
Woodruff
Key 26—
Bushing

27—
Insulated
Sleeve
28— Nut sembly straight out until the brushes are clear of

rotor
assembly.
Lift
the brush assembly out of the housing.

b.
Remove the isolation
diode
assembly by re­
moving nuts.

c.
Remove fan, pulley, lock
washer,
nut and spacer.
With
the nut removed, remove pulley using
Puller,

the other parts can then be removed easily from the

rotor
shaft. The spacer
will
not
come
off until the key is removed.

d.
Separate front housing from
rear
housing by
removing
bolts
and nuts.
Then
insert blade of
a
small screwdriver in the stator
slots
between
the
stator and the front housing. Wedge apart the
halves of the alternator.

Caution:
Take
care not to insert the screwdriver
blade deeper than J/f6" [0,16 cm.] below a stator.

Otherwise
damage to the stator windings may

result.
It may be necessary to apply pressure at

several
points around the stator to extract rotor

and
front housing as an assembly. Be careful not
to
burr
the stator core as this would make reas­ sembly difficult.

e.
Remove the two rectifying
diode
heat sink as­semblies and the stator as a complete unit from
the
rear
housing by removing nuts and locknuts.
Note
that the positive
diode
assembly is insulated

from
the alternator housing by insulated washers

and
insulated sleeves.
f. The
diode
and stator assemblies may now be
tested
as outlined in
Par.
H-83.
For
additional
test­
ing
(Pars.
H-84 and H-85) or to replace a
diode
heat
sink
assembly, unsolder the three soldered con­
nections at the
diodes
to separate heat sink from stator.

Caution:
When unsoldering the stator wires from
the rectifier
diode
assembly, provide a heat sink
to the
diode
terminal using a
pair
of long-nosed
pliers
to dissipate the heat away from the diodes.

g.
To remove the rotor assembly from the front
housing remove the woodruff key and split spring

washer
(bearing retainer).
FIG.
H-32—REMOVING
FRONT
BEARING

1—Front
Bearing Remover C-4068
h.
With
the woodruff key removed and the split

spring
washer
loose,
the rotor may be removed
from
the front housing by tapping the rotor shaft
on a
soft
wood surface.

i.
Remove the front and
rear
bearings from the

rotor
shaft by using Bearing Remover C-4068 for
the front bearing, as shown in
Fig.
H-32, and
Bear­
ing Remover C-3936 for the
rear
bearing, as shown

in Fig.
H-33.

H-81.
General
Inspection

a.
All parts should be wiped clean and visually inspected for wear, distortion, and signs of over­
heating or mechanical interference.

b.
Check
the bearings for roughness or excessive

clearance.
They should be replaced if found defective.

Note:
New bearings are prelubricated. Additional

lubrication
is not required. 199

H
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
|
lists
>

FIG.
H-33—REMOVING
REAR
BEARING

1—
Rear
Bearing

2—
Rear
Bearing
Remover C-3936
The
alternator end housing may be
wiped
clean

with
a
cloth
dampened in solvent if excessively
dirty
but should not be
buffed
as this
will
destroy
special treatment given to
inhibit
corrosion.

H-82.
Out-Of-Circuit
Rotor Test

Refer
to
Pars.
H-76 and H-79 for
tests
to be per­ formed on the rotor. If
these
tests
were not per­formed while the alternator was assembled, they

can
be performed with the alternator removed by following the procedure given in
these
paragraphs.

H-83.
Out-Of-Circuit
Stator Leakage Test Disassemble alternator and remove the rectifier
diode plates and stator as shown in Fig. H-34 as
an
assembly.
An
ohmmeter or 12-volt
test
lamp may be used,

a.
Connect one ohmmeter or
test
lamp probe to
one of the rectifier diode terminals and the other
to the stator as shown in Fig. H-34.
FIG.
H-34—STATOR
LEAKAGE
TEST
POINTS
1—
Stator

2—
Diode
Terminal
Resistance
reading should be infinite or
test
lamp
should not light. If resistance reading is not infinite

or
test
lamp lights, high leakage or a short exists between stator winding and stator. In either case,
the diode heat sinks should be separated from the
stator (Par. H-80) to ascertain whether the stator
should be replaced (Par. H-84).

H-84.
Stator
Coil
Leakage and
Continuity
Test

This
test
checks for shorts or leakage between
stator coil windings. To conduct the
test,
the wind­
ing junctions must be separated as shown in Fig.

H-35.
An ohmmeter or 12-volt
test
lamp may be used.
|
.11521 •

FIG.
H-35—STATOR
LEAKAGE
AND
CONTINUITY
TEST
POINTS 1—
Test
Point 3—Test Point 5—Test Point

2—
Test
Point 4—Test Point 6—Test Point

a.
Connect one of the ohmmeter or
test
lamp probes to
test
point 4 as shown in Fig. H-35.
Con­

nect the other
test
probe to
test
point 5 and then to

test
point 6. Resistance should be infinite or
test

lamp
should not light.

b.
Connect one
test
probe to point 1 and the other
to point 3 and then point 2. Resistance should be infinite or
test
lamp should not light.

In
either
test,
if the resistance reading is not infinite

or
the
test
lamp lights, high leakage or a short
exists between stator windings. Stator should be
replaced.

c.
Measure resistance of each winding in stator between
test
points 4 and 1, 5 and 3, and 6 and 2,
in Fig.
H-35. 200

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
Resistance
should be approximately 0.1 ohm.

An
extremely accurate instrument would be neces­
sary
to ascertain shorted turns.
Only
an open condi­
tion can be detected with a commercial ohmmeter.

If
the alternator has been disassembled because of
an
electrical malfunction, replace stator only after

all
components have been checked and found to
be satisfactory.

H-85.
Out-Of-Circuit
Rectifier Diode Test

With
the rectifier diode heat sinks disconnected
from
the stator assembly (Par. H-80), the diodes

can
be individually checked with the Diode Tester

C-3829.
FIG.
H-36—RECTIFIER
DIODE
TEST
POINTS

1— Diode Plate Stud

2—
Diode Terminals

Fig.
H-36 shows the
test
point location for either positive or negative diode.

Plug
Tester C-3829 into a 110-volt AC outlet.
Connect
alligator clip to diode plate stud, and the probe of the tester to each of the three diode ter­

minal's
test
points. Negative diodes
will
give a
negative deflection of the needle and positive
diodes
will
give a positive deflection. The meter

reading
should be the same for each of the diodes

and
should be 2 or over for a
good
diode. If a diode is faulty, replace the entire diode heat sink
assembly. H-86.
Assembling Alternator

Refer
to Fig. H-31.

a.
To install front bearing in front housing, press
the bearing into place on an arbor press using

Bearing
Installer C-3858. Position the split spring

washer
in the front bearing housing oh top of the bearing.

b.
Install
the
rear
bearing on the rotor shaft front
end using Bearing Installer C-3935 as shown in

Fig.
H-37.
FIG.
H-37—INSTALLING
REAR
ROTOR
BEARING

1—
Rear
Bearing Installer C-3935

2—
Rotor
Shaft
C.
Place the rotor assembly
into
position in the
front housing by tapping rotor shaft on a
soft

wood surface.

d.
Position diode assemblies and stator as a unit
into the
rear
housing. Make certain that insulator
washers and insulator
sleeves
are correctly posi­
tioned on the positive diode assembly.

e.
To assemble the subassembly halves of the
alternator
(front
housing and
rear
housing). Slide
the front housing over the stator.
Install
the bolts
and
nuts.
f. Position first the spacer, then the woodruff key
on the rotor shaft and slide on the fan.
Carefully

position the alternator in a vise with the clamps
of the vise held to the pulley. Position the pulley
so it is just starting to slide over the woodruff

key.
Press it into position by tightening nut with

a
wrench. When the pulley is properly positioned,
remove the nut, place the lock washer on the

rotor
shaft, and again replace the nut.

g.
Install
the isolation diode assembly and secure

with
locknuts.

h.
Install
the brush housing in position in the
rear

housing.
Install
the brush housing cover and the
tapping screws.

i.
Turn
the rotor by hand listening carefully to

make
certain there is no interference between the

rotor
and the stator winding.
H-87.
Alternator Installation

To
install the alternator, reverse the procedure 201

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
FIG.
H-38—WIRE
COLOR CODE
AND

LOCATIONS
FOR
ALTERNATOR HOOK-UP

1— Regulator (Auxiliary)
Terminal
(Cable —
Grey)

2— Output
Terminal:
(Red)

3—
Regulator
Terminal
(Cable —
Grey)

4—
Ground
Terminal
(Cable — Black-White
Tracer)
5—
Field
Terminal
(Cable — Green-White
Tracer)

6—
Ground
(Optional)
Terminal
(Cable — Black-White
Tracer)
REAR
VIEW

35
AMP.
ALTERNATOR
REAR
VIEW
40
& 55 AMP.
ALTERNATOR
given in Par. H-78, adjusting the fan belt to its
proper tension after the alternator is mounted, as described in Par. C-27. Wires should be connected
as shown in Fig. H-38.

When
the vehicle is equipped with a radio, a .55
mfd. capacitor is required on the alternator. Mount
the capacitor strap to a ground terminal and con­
nect the lead to the output terminal.
H-88.
STARTING
SYSTEM
SERVICE
H-89.
Ignition
Switch

The
ignition switch serves both to energize the
ignition system and
engage
the starter switch.
The
ignition switch has four positions: (1) AC­

CESSORY,
(2)
LOCK,
(3) ON, and (4)
START. The
key must be in the switch to turn it to any position other than
LOCK,
and the key can be
removed only in the
LOCK
position.
In "ACC",
a connection is made from the battery

terminal
to the accessory terminal of the switch to
allow accessories such as the radio, blower and/or
windshield wiper to be operated with the ignition, fuel
gauge
and indicator light circuits off.
In "LOCK",
no accessory supplied through the
ignition switch can be operated. Also, the ballast
resistor (V-6
engine
only) circuit to the ignition
coil
(IGN) is grounded.
In
"ON", a connection is made from the battery

terminal
to the accessory terminal so that all
ignition switch supplied accessories can be operated. Also the battery is connected to the ballast resistor
(V-6
engine
only) leading to the ignition coil

(IGN).
From
this same terminal, a lead
into
the
instrument cluster energizes the fuel
gauge
and
indicator lights.
In "START",
all ignition switch supplied acces­
sories are temporarily disconnected. A connection is made to the starter solenoid lead. The charge

and
oil indicator lamps
will
light until the
engine
is started.
H-90.
Ignition
Switch
Removal

a.
Remove the bezel nut and pull back the main
switch body.
Lower
the switch
body
from under the instrument panel so that the wiring harness plug

can
be removed from the prong connection,
b. If the lock cylinder is to be removed, turn the
ignition key to the right and insert a short
piece

of wire or end of a paper clip
into
the lock release

hole
in the switch body. Pressing on the lock
cyl­
inder retainer
will
allow the cylinder to be removed.
H-91.
Ignition
Switch
Installation

Before installing the lock cylinder
into
the main
switch body,
note
the position of the lock cylinder
retainer.

a.
Place the lock cylinder
into
the main switch
body
with the highest part of the lock cylinder
retainer in line with the lock release
hole
in the
main
switch body.
b. Compress the lock cylinder retainer so that the
lock cylinder can be installed all the way
into
the

main
switch
body
or until the retainer can be

seen
through the pin hole.

c.
Install
wiring harness plug
onto
switch
body

prong connection.

d.
Install
this main switch
body
into
the instru­
ment panel opening from the
rear.

e. To make sure that the switch is in its correct position, install the ignition key in the off position.
Then
turn the switch
body
until the key is straight
up and down. Remove the key, install the bezel
nut and secure.
H-92.
PRESTOLITE
STARTING
MOTOR
DAUNTLESS
V-6 and

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

The
Prestolite starting motor on the V6
engine
is

similar
in construction (with exception of pinion housings) to the starting motor installed on F4

engines.
The
starter solenoid switch is bolted to the starter
frame.

The
starter is equipped with
sealed-type
absorbent
bronze bearings and no lubricant is required. Service procedures for the Prestolite starter are
given in
Pars.
H-93 to H-107. 202

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
13406

FIG.
H-39—STARTING
CIRCUIT

1—
Ground
Cable
2—
Battery

3—
Positive Cable
4—
Alternator
Wire
5—
Alternator

6— Ignition Switch
Wire

H-93.
Maintenance Procedure

A
periodic inspection should be made of the start­ ing circuit. Since the interval
between
these
checks

will
vary according to the type of service, it should, under normal conditions, be made every 500 hours
of operation. Inspect all starting circuit wiring for damage.
Check
for
loose
or corroded terminals and
for dependable operation of the starting motor.

H-94.
Wiring

Refer
to Fig. H-39. Inspect the starting circuit to make sure that all
connections are clean and tight.
Check
for worn or damaged insulation on the wires. Perform a volt­

age-loss
test
to make sure there is no
loss
of start­ ing motor efficiency resulting from high resistance
connections. Voltage
loss
from the battery ter­
minal
to the starting motor terminal should not
exceed .30 volts for each 100 amperes. Voltage
loss
between
the battery ground
post
and the start­ing motor frame should not exceed .10 volts for
each 100 amperes. If the
voltage
loss
is greater
than
these
limits, measure the
voltage
loss
over
each part of the circuit until the resistance causing the
voltage
loss
is located and corrected.

H-95.
Commutator
Sluggish starting motor operation may be caused by a dirty commutator or worn brushes. The com­mutator cannot be cleaned while the. starting motor is mounted on the
engine
and it
will
be necessary
to remove it and proceed as for an overhaul. Should 7— Ignition Switch
8— Solenoid
Wire

9—
Starter

10— Solenoid
11—
Connector
Strap
the commuator be rough or worn, it should be
removed for cleaning and reconditioning.
H-96.
Overhaul Procedure

At
periodic intervals the starting motor circuit
should be thoroughly checked and the motor re­ moved from the
engine
for cleaning and checking.

H-97.
Removal and Disassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.
To
remove the starting motor from the engine, dis­
connect the leads and cover the battery lead ter­

minal
with a piece of
hose
or tape to prevent short

circuiting.
Remove the flange
bolts
holding the starting motor to the flywheel housing. Remove
the starting motor from the vehicle.

Each
part of the starting motor should be removed, cleaned, and inspected for evidence of wear or
damage. The Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive should be
cleaned and inspected for evidence of wear or a distorted spring. Bearings should be checked for
proper clearance and fit. All insulation should be
free of oil and in
good
condition. The armature,
field coils, and brushes should be checked for
good
ground and lack of open circuits.

H-98.
Brushes

a.
The brushes should slide freely in their holders
and
make full contact on the commutator. Worn
brushes should be replaced.
b.
Check
brush spring tension with a spring scale.
Hook the scale under the brush spring near the 203