1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE relay

II-6 TROUBLESHOOTING
DIAGhUSTIC PROCEDURES
Gasoline Engines
1. Engine turns over, but wilt not start
a. Check fuel level in fuel tank, add fuel if empty.
b. Check battery condition and state of charge. If voltage and load test below specifica-
tion, charge or replace battery.
c. Check battery terminal and cable condition and tightness. Clean terminals and replace
damaged, worn or corroded cables.
d. Check fuel delivery system. If fuel is not reaching the fuel injectors, check for a loose
electrical connector or defective fuse, relay or fuel pump and replace as necessary.
e. Engine may have excessive wear or mechanical damage such as low cylinder cranking
pressure, a broken camshaft drive system, insufficient valve clearance or bent valves.
f. Check for fuel contamination such as water in the fuel. During winter months, the wa-
ter may freeze and cause a fuel restriction. Adding a fuel additive may help, however
the fuel system may require draining and purging with fresh fuel.
g. Check for ignition system failure. Check for loose or shorted wires or damaged igni-
tion system components. Check the spark plugs for excessive wear or incorrect elec-
trode gap. If the problem is worse in wet weather, check for shorts between the spark
plugs and the ignition coils.
h. Check the engine management system for a failed sensor or control module.
2. Engine does not turn over when attempting to start
a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or
very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or
discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the al-
ternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replacethe
battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output.
b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehicles,
try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, de-
press the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be
adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Re-
place or adjust the switches as necessary.
c. Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires.
Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose,
damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try using a re-
mote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or cor-
roded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components.
d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of
time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine
may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water.
Remove the spark plugs and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a suitable
breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. If the engine is resistant to moving, or
moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining
the problem.
3. Enpine stalls immediately when started
a. Check the ignition switch condition and operation. The electrical contacts in the run
position may be worn or damaged. Try restarting the engine with all electrical acces-
sories in the off position. Sometimes turning the key on an off will help in emergency
situations, however once the switch has shown signs of failure, it should be replaced
as soon as possible.
b. Check for loose, corroded, damaged or shorted wires for the ignition system and re-
pair or replace.
c. Check for manifold vacuum leaks or vacuum hose leakage and repair or replace parts
as necessary.
d. Measure the fuel pump delivery volume and pressure. Low fuel pump pressure can
also be noticed as a lack of power when accelerating. Make sure the fuel pump lines
are not restricted. The fuel pump output is not adjustable and requires fuel pump re-
placement to repair.
e. Check the engine fuel and ignition management system. Inspect the sensor wiring and
electrical connectors. A dirty, loose or damaged sensor or control module wire can
simulate a failed component.
f. Check the exhaust system for internal restrictions.
4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage
a. Check the starter motor for a seized or binding pinion gear.
b. Remove the flywheel inspection plate and check for a damaged ring gear.
5. Engine is difficult to start when Gold
a. Check the battery condition, battery state of charge and starter motor current draw. Re-
place the battery if marginal and the starter motor if the current draw is beyond specifi-
cation. b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean the battery terminals and replace corroded or
damaged cables.
c. Check the fuel system for proper operation. A fuel pump with insufficient fuel pressure
or clogged injectors should be replaced.
d. Check the engine’s tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items
such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with
manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification.
e. Check for a failed coolant temperature sensor, and replace if out of specification.
f. Check the operation of the engine management systems for fuel and ignition; repair or
replace failed components as necessary.
6. En#ine is ditticutt to start when hot
a. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contami-
nated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage.
b. Check for loose or deteriorated engine grounds and clean, tighten or replace as
needed.
c. Check for needed maintenance. Inspect tune-up and service related items such as
spark plugs and engine oil condition, and check the operation of the engine fuel and
ignition management system.
Diesel Engines
1. Engine turns over but won’t start
a. Check engine starting procedure and restart engine.
b. Check the glow plug operation and repair or replace as necessary.
c. Check for air in the fuel system or fuel filter and bleed the air as necessary.
d. Check the fuel delivery system and repair or replace as necessary.
e. Check fuel level and add fuel as needed.
f. Check fuel quality. If the fuel is contaminated, drain and flush the fuel tank.
g. Check engine compression. If compression is below specification, the engine may
need to be renewed or replaced.
h. Check the injection pump timing and set to specification.
i. Check the injection pump condition and replace as necessary.
j. Check the fuel nozzle operation and condition or replace as necessary.
2. Engine does
hot turn over when attempting to start
a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or
very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or
discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the al-
ternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replace the
battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output.
b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehicles,
try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, de-
press the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be
adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Re-
place or adjust the switches as necessary.
c. Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires.
Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose,
damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try using a re-
mote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or cor-
roded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components.
d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of
time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine
may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water.
Remove the injectors and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a suitable
breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. If the engine is resistant to moving, or
moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining
the cause of the problem.
3. Engine stalls afier starting
a. Check for a restriction in the fuel return line or the return line check valve and repair as
necessary.
b. Check the glow plug operation for turning the glow plugs off too soon and repair as
necessary.
c. Check for incorrect injection pump timing and reset to specification.
d. Test the engine fuel pump and replace if the output is below specification.
e. Check for contaminated or incorrect fuel. Completely flush the fuel system and replace
with fresh fuel.
f. Test the engine’s compression for low compression. If below specification, mechanical
repairs are necessary to repair.
g. Check for air in the fuel. Check fuel tank fuel and fill as needed.
h. Check for a failed injection pump. Replace the pump, making sure to properly set the
pump timing.

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-9
c. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for blown fuses or defective fan motors, temperature sensors and relays, and
replace failed components.
d. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
e. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
f. Check for a damaged water pump. If coolant circulation is poor, check for a loose wa-
ter pump impeller. If the impeller is loose, replace the water pump.
2. Engine loses coolant
a. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.
b. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
3. Engine temperature remains co/d when driving
a. Check the thermostat operation. Replace the thermostat if it sticks in the open posi-
tion.
b. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for defective temperature sensors and stuck relays, and replace failed compo-
nents.
c. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
4. Engine runs hot
a. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
b. Check for a loose or slipping water pump drive belt. Inspect the drive belt condition.
Replace the belt if brittle, cracked or damaged. Check the pulley condition and prop-
erly tension the belt.
c. Check the cooling fan operation. Replace defective fan motors, sensors or relays as
necessary.
d. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
e. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot, check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture. Once the engine is cool, recheck the fluid level and
top off as needed.
NOTE: The engine cooling system can also be affected by an engine’s me-
chanical condition. A failed head gasket or a porous casting in the engine
block or cylinder head could cause a loss of coolant and result in engine
overheating.
Some cooling systems rely on electrically driven cooling fans to cool the radiator and
use electrical temperature sensors and relays to operate the cooling fan. When diagnos-
ing these systems, check for blown fuses, damaged wires and verify that the electrical
connections are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean
the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning igents not specifically designed for electrical contacts could leave a film or damage the insulation of
the wiring.
1. Exhaust rattles at idle speed
a. Check the engine and transmission mounts and replace mounts showing signs of
damage or wear.
b. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
d. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
2. Exhaust system vibrates when driving
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, check for bent or damaged components and
replace, then loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
3. Exhaust system hangs too low
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust routing and alignment. Check and replace bent or damaged com-
ponents. If the exhaust is not routed properly, loosen and reposition the exhaust sys-
tern.
4. Exhaust sounds loud
a. Check the system for looseness and leaks. Check the exhaust pipes, clamps, flange
bolts and manifold fasteners for tightness. Check and replace any failed gaskets.
b. Check and replace exhaust silencers that have a loss of efficiency due to internally
broken baffles or worn packing material.
c. Check for missing mufflers and silencers that have been replaced with straight pipes
or with non-original equipment silencers.
NOTE: Exhaust system rattles, vibration and proper alignment should not
be overlooked. Excessive vibration caused by collapsed engine mounts,
damaged or missing exhaust hangers and misalignment may cause surface
cracks and broken welds, creating exhaust leaks or internal damage to ex-
haust components such as the catalytic converter, creating a restriction to
exhaust flow and loss of power.
1. Transmission shit& erratically
a. Check and if not within the recommended range, add or remove transmission fluid to
obtain the correct fluid level. Always use the recommended fluid type when adding
transmission fluid.
b. Check the fluid level condition. If the fluid has become contaminated, fatigued from
excessive heat or exhibits a burning odor, change the transmission fluid and filter us-
ing the recommended type and amount of fluid. A fluid which exhibits a burning odor
indicates that the transmission has been slipping internally and may require future re-
pairs.
c. Check for an improperly installed transmission filter, or missing filter gasket, and re-
pair as necessary.
d. Check for loose or leaking gaskets, pressure lines and fittings, and repair or replace as
necessary.
e. Check for loose or disconnected shift and throttle linkages or vacuum hoses, and re-
pair as necessary. ,
2. Transmission will not engage
a. Check the shift linkage for looseness, wear and proper adjustment, and repair as nec-
essary. b. Check for a loss of transmission fluid and top off as needed with the recommended
fluid.
c. If the transmission does not engage with the shift linkage correctly installed and the
proper fluid level, internal damage has likely occurred, requiring transmission removal
and disassembly.
3. Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration
a. On computer controlled transmissions, check for failed sensors or control units and
repair or replace defective components.
b. On vehicles with kickdown linkages or vacuum servos, check for proper linkage ad-
justment or leaking vacuum hoses or servo units.
NOTE: Mlany automatic transmissions use an electronic control module,
electrical sensors and solenoids to control transmission shifting. When
troubleshooting a vehicle with this type of system, be sure the electrical
connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If nec-
essary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The
use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts
could leave a film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

II-16 TROUBLESHOOTING
c. Gauge sending unit defective. Replace gauge sending unit.
d. Gauge or sending unit improperly installed. Verify installation and wiring, and repair
1. Speedometer does not work
a. Check the speed sensor pickup and replace as necessary.
b. Check the wiring between the speed sensor and the speedometer for corroded termi-
nals, loose connections or broken wires and clean or repair as necessary.
c. Install a known good speedometer to test for proper operation. If the substituted
speedometer functions properly, replace the speedometer assembly.
2. Speedometer works intermittently
a. Check the wiring between the speed sensor and the speedometer for corroded termi-
nals, loose connections or broken wires and clean or repair as necessary.
b. Check the speed sensor pickup and replace as necessary. as necessary.
2. Gauge operates enatica//y
a. Checkfor ioose, shorted, damaged or corroded electrical connections or wiring and
repair as necessary.
b. Check gauge sending units and replace as necessary.
3. Gauge operates fully pegged
a. Sending unit-to-gauge wire shorted to ground.
b. Sending unit defective; replace sending unit.
c. Gauge or sending unit not properly grounded.
d. Gauge or sending unit improperly installed. Verify installation and wiring, and repair
as necessary.
I. Gauge does not register
a. Check for a missing or blown fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check for an open circuit in the gauge wiring. Repair wiring as necessary.
I. No air coming from air conditioner vents
a. Check the air conditioner fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Air conditioner system discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak
tested by an MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling equip-
ment. Repair as necessary.
c. Air conditioner low pressure switch defective. Replace switch.
d. Air conditioner fan resistor pack defective. Replace resistor pack.
e. Loose connection, broken wiring or defective air conditioner relay in air conditioning*
electrical circuit. Repair wiring or replace relay as necessary.
2. Air conditioner blows warm air
a. Air conditioner system is discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak
tested by an MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling equip-
ment. Repair as necessary.
b. Air conditioner compressor clutch not engaging. Check compressor clutch wiring,
electrical connections and compressor clutch, and repair or replace as necessary.
3. Water collects on the interior floor when the air conditioner is used
a. Air conditioner evaporator drain hose is blocked. Clear the drain hose where it exits
the passenger compartment.
b. Air conditioner evaporator drain hose is disconnected. Secure the drain hose to the
evaporator drainage tray under the dashboard.
4. Air conditioner has a moldy odor when used
a. The air conditioner evaporator drain hose is blocked or partially restricted, allowing
condensation to build up around the evaporator and drainage tray. Clear the drain
hose where it exits the passenger compartment.
,
1. Blower motor does not operate
a. Check blower motor fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check blower motor wiring for loose, damaged or corroded contacts and repair as
necessary.
c. Check blower motor switch and resistor pack for open circuits, and repair or replace
as necessary.
d. Check blower motor for internal damage and repair or replace as necessary.
2. Heater blows cool air
a. Check the engine coolant level. If the coolant level is low, top off and bleed the air
from the cooling system as necessary and check for coolant leaks.
b. Check engine coolant operating temperature. If coolant temperature is below specifica-
tion, check for a damaged or stuck thermostat.
c. Check the heater control valve operation. Check the heater control valve cable or vac-
uum hose for proper installation. Move the heater temperature control from hot to cold
several times and verify the operation of the heater control valve. With the engine at
normal operating temperature and the heater temperature control in the full hot posi-
tion, carefully feel the heater hose going into and exiting the control valve. If one
heater hose is hot and the other is much cooler, replace the control valve.
3. Heater steams the windshield when used
a. Check for a loose cooling system hose clamp or leaking coolant hose near the engine
firewall or under the dash area, and repair as necessary.
b. Check for the existence of a sweet odor and fluid dripping from the heater floor vents,
indicating a failed or damaged heater core. Pressure test the cooling system with the
heater set to the fully warm position and check for fluid leakage from the floor vents. If
leakage is verified, remove and replace the heater core assembly.
NOTE: On some vehicles, the dashboard must be disassembled and re-
moved to access the heater core.

GLOSSARY 11-17
AIR/FUEL RATIO: The ratio of air-to-gasoline by weight in the fuel mixture
drawn into the engine.
AIR INJECTION: One method of reducing harmful exhaust emissions by in-
jecting air into each of the exhaust ports of an engine. The fresh air entering
the hot exhaust manifold causes any remaining fuel to be burned before it can
exit the tailpipe.
ALTERNATOR: A device which produces AC (alternating current) which is
converted to DC (direct current) to charge the car battery.
AMMETER: An instrument, calibrated in amperes, used to measure the flow
of an electrical current in a circuit. Ammeters are always connected in series
with the circuit being tested.
AMPERE: The rate of flow of electrical current present when one volt of elec-
trical pressure is applied against one ohm of electrical resistance.
ANALOG COMPUTER: Any microprocessor that uses similar (analogous)
electrical signals to make its calculations.
ARMATURE: A laminated, soft iron core wrapped by a wire that converts elec-
trical energy to mechanical energy as in a motor or relay. When rotated in
a magnetic field, it changes mechanical energy into electrical energy as in a
generator.
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE: The pressure on the Earth’s surface caused
by the weight of the air in the atmosphere. At sea level, this pressure is 14.7
psi at 32°F (101 kPa at OOC).
ATOMIZATION: The breaking down of a liquid into a fine mist that can be
suspended in air.
AXIAL PLAY: Movement parallel to a shaft or bearing bore.
BACKFIRE: The sudden combustion of gases in the intake or exhaust sys-
tem that results in a loud explosion.
BACKLASH: The clearance or play between two parts, such as meshed gears.
BACKPRESSURE: Restrictions in the exhaust system that slow the exit of
exhaust gases from the combustion chamber.
BAKELITE[reg]: A heat resistant, plastic insulator material commonly used
in printed circuit boards and transistorized components.
BALL BEARING: A bearingmade up of hardened inner and outer races be-
tween which hardened steel’balls roll.
BALLAST RESISTOR: A resistor in the primary ignition circuit that lowers
voltage after the engine is started to reduce wear on ignition components.
BEARING: A friction reducing, supportive device usually located between a
stationary part and a moving part.
BI-METAL TEMPERATURE SENSOR: Anv sensor or switch made of two
dissimilar types of metal that bend when heated or cooled due to the different
expansion rates of the alloys. These types of sensors usually function as an
on/off switch. BLOW-BY: Combustion gases, composed of water vapor and unburned fuel,
that leak past the piston rings into the crankcase during normal engine oper-
ation. These gases are removed by the PCV system to prevent the buildup of
harmful acids in the crankcase.
BRAKE PAD: A brake shoe and lining assembly used with disc brakes.
BRAKE SHOE: The backing for the brake lining. The term is, however, usu-
ally applied to the assembly of the brake backing and lining.
BUSHING: A liner, usually removable, for a bearing; an anti-friction liner used
in place of a bearing.
CALIPER: A hydraulically activated device in a disc brake system, which is
mounted straddling the brake rotor (disc). The caliper contains at least one
piston and two brake pads. Hydraulic pressure on the piston(s) forces the pads
against the rotor.
CAMSHAFT: A shaft in the engine on which are the lobes (cams) which op-
erate the valves. The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft, via a belt, chain or
gears, at one half the crankshaft speed.
CAPACITOR: A device which stores an electrical charge.
CARBON MONOXIDE (CO): A colorless, odorless gas given off as a nor-
mal byproduct of combustion. It is poisonous and extremely dangerous in con-
fined areas, building up slowly to toxic levels without warning if adequate ven-
tilation is not available.
CARBURETOR: A device, usually mounted on the intake manifold of an en-
gine, which mixes the air and fuel in the proper proportion to allow even com-
bustion
CATALYTIC CONVERTER: A device installed in the exhaust system, like a
muffler, that converts harmful byproducts of combustion into carbon dioxide
and water vapor by means of a heat-producing chemical reaction.
CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE: A mechanical method of advancing the spark
timing by using flyweights in the distributor that react to centrifugal force gen-
erated by the distributor shaft rotation.
CHECK VALVE: Any one-way valve installed to permit the flow of air, fuel or
vacuum in one direction only.
CHOKE: The valve/plate that restricts the amount of air entering an engine on
the induction stroke, thereby enriching the air:fuel ratio.
CIRCUIT: Any unbroken path through which an electrical current can flow.
Also used to describe fuel flow in some instances.
CIRCUIT BREAKER: A switch which protects an electrical circuit from
overload by opening the circuit when the current flow exceeds a pre-
determined level. Some circuit breakers must be reset manually, while most
reset automatically.
COIL (IGNITION): Part of the ignition system that boosts the relatively low
voltage supplied by the car’s electrical system to the high voltage required to
fire the spark plugs.

GLOSSARY 1149
GENERATOR: A device which produces direct current (DC) necessary to
charge the battery. OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT (OHC): An engine configuration in which the
camshaft is mounted on top of the cylinder head and operates the valve either
directly or by means of rocker arms.
HEAT RANGE: A term used to describe the ability of a spark plug to carry
away heat. Plugs with longer nosed insulators take longer to carry heat off
effectively.
HUB: The center part of a wheel or gear.
HYDROCARBON (HC): Any chemical compound made up of hydrogen
and carbon. A major pollutant formed by the engine as a by-product of
combustion.
HYDROMETER: An instrument used to measure the specific gravity of a so-
lution.
INCH POUND (inch Ibs.; sometimes in. lb. or in. Ibs.): One twelfth
.
of a foot pound.
INDUCTION: A means of transferring electrical energy in the form of a mag-
netic field. Principle used in the ignition coil to increase voltage.
INJECTOR: A device which receives metered fuel under relatively low pres-
sure and is activated to inject the fuel into the engine under relatively high
pressure at a predetermined time.
INPUT SHAFT: The shaft to which torque is applied, usually carrying the dri-
ving gear or gears.
INTAKE MANIFOLD: A casting of passages or pipes used to conduct air or
a fuel/air mixture to the cylinders.
JOURNAL: The bearing surface within which a shaft operates.
KEY: A small block usually fitted in a notch between a shaft and a hub to pre-
vent slippage of the two parts.
MANIFOLD: A casting of passages or set of pipes which connect the cylin-
ders to an inlet or outlet source.
MASTER CYLINDER: The primary fluid pressurizing device in a hydraulic
system. In automotive use, it is found in brake and hydraulic clutch systems
and is pedal activated, either directly or, in a power brake system, through the
power booster.
MODULE: Electronic control unit, amplifier or igniter of solid state or inte-
grated design which controls the current flow in the ignition primary circuit
based on input from the pick-up coil. When the module opens the primary cir-
cuit, high secondary voltage is induced in the coil.
NEEDLE BEARING: A bearing which consists of a number (usually a large
number) of long, thin rollers.
OHM: The unit used to measure the resistance of conductor-to-electrical flow.
One ohm is the amount of resistance that limits current flow to one ampere in
a circuit with one volt of pressure.
OHMMETER: An instrument used for measuring the resistance, in ohms, in
an electrical circuit.
OUTPUT SHAFT: The shaft which transmits torque from a device, such as a
transmission. OVERHEAD VALVE (OHV): An engine configuration in which all of the
valves are located in the cylinder head
and the camshaft is located in the cylin-
der block. The camshaft operates the valves via lifters and pushrods.
OXIDES OF NITROGEN (NOx): Chemical compounds of nitrogen produced
as a byproduct of combustion. They combine with hydrocarbons to produce
smog.
OXYGEN SENSOR: Used with a feedback system to sense the presence of
oxygen in the exhaust gas and signal the computer which can use the voltage
signal to determine engine operating efficiency and adjust the air/fuel ratio.
PINION: The smaller of two gears. The rear axle pinion drives the ring gear
which transmits motion to the axle shafts.
PISTON RING: An open-ended ring which fits into a groove on the outer di-
ameter of the piston. Its chief function is to form a seal between the piston and
cylinder wall. Most automotive pistons have three rings: two for compression
sealing; one for oil sealing.
PRELOAD: A predetermined load placed on a bearing during assembly or by
adjustment.
PRESS FIT: The mating of two parts under pressure, due to the inner diam-
eter of one being smaller than the outer diameter of the other, or vice versa;
an interference fit.
PRIMARY CIRCUIT: The low voltage side of the ignition system which con-
sists of the ignition switch, ballast resistor or resistance wire, bypass, coil,
electronic control unit and pick-up coil as well as the connecting wires and
harnesses.
RACE: The surface on the inner or otiter ring of a bearing on which the balls,
needles or rollers move.
REGULATOR: A device which maintains the amperage and/or voltage levels
of a circuit at predetermined values.
RELAY: A switch which automatically opens and/or closes a circuit.
RESISTANCE: The opposition to the flow of current through a circuit or elec-
trical device, and is measured in ohms. Resistance is equal to the voltage di-
vided by the amperage.
RESISTOR: A device, usually made of wire, which offers a preset amount of
resistance in an electrical circuit.
RING GEAR: The name given to a ring-shaped gear attached to a differential
case, or affixed to a flywheel or as part of a planetary gear set.
ROLLER BEARING: A bearing made up of hardened inner and outer races
between which hardened steel rollers move.
ROTOR: (1.) The disc-shaped part of a disc brake assembly, upon which the
brake pads bear; also called, brake disc. (2.) The device mounted atop the dis-
tributor shaft, which passes current to the distributor cap tower contacts.

11-22 MASTER INDEX
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-3
BRAKE MASTERCYLINDER I-41
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS 1-41
LEVELCHECK I-41
BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM B-2
BRAKEPADS 9-8
INSPECTION 9-11
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-8
'
BRAKESHOES 9-16
ADJUSTMENTS 9-18
INSPECTION 9-16
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-17
BRAKESHOES 9-23
ADJUSTMENT 9-24
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-23
BUY OR REBUILD? 3-57
CABLE(S) 9-20
ADJUSTMENT 9-22
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-20
CAMSHAFT POSITIONSENSOR 4-14
OPERATION 4-14
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 4-14
TESTING 4-14
CAMSHAFT, BEARINGSAND LIFTERS 3-48
INSPECTION 3-53
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-48
CENTERBEARING 7-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-15
CHARGING SYSTEM 2-8
CHASSISGREASING l-43
CAR WASHING 1-43
INTERIOR CLEANING l-44
WAXING l-43
CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6-28
CIRCUIT PROTECTION 6-27
CLEARING CODES 4-27
CLEARING CODES 4-28
WITHASCANTOOL 4-28
WITHOUTASCANTOOL 4-28
CLUTCH CABLE 7-9
ADJUSTMENT 7-9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 7-9
REMOVALANDINSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCHSLAVECYLINDER 7-9
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 7-9
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCH 7-7
CLUTCHMASTERCYLINDER l-42
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-42
LEVELCHECK l-42
COMBINATION SWITCH 8-29
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 8-29
COMPONENTLOCATIONS 4-16
CONTROL CABLES 6-12
ADJUSTMENT 6-12
CONTROL PANEL 6-12
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-12
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39
DRAIN &REFILL I-40
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39
FLUSHINGANDCLEANING THESYST
EM-41
LEVELCHECK l-39
TESTING FOR LEAKS l-39
CRANKCASEVENTILATIONSYSTEM 4-2
COMPONENTTESTING 4-2
OPERATION 4-2
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 4-2
CRANKSHAFTDAMPER 3-36 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 3-36
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITIONSENSORS 2-7
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITIONSENSORS 2-5
CRANKSHAFTPOSlTlONSENSOR/CRANKANGLESENSOR 4-14
OPERATION 4-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-15
TESTING 4-15
CRUISE CONTROL 6-13
CV-BOOTS I-21
INSPECTION I-21
CYLINDER HEAD 3-23
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-23
CYLINDER HEAD 3-60
DETERMINIG ENGINE CONDITION 3-57
COMPRESSION TEST 3-57
OIL PRESSURETEST 3-57
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING 9-24
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-2
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-5
DIAGNOSTICTROUBLECODES 4-27
DIAGNOSTICTROUBLECODES 4-28
FLASH OUTCODELIST 4-32
DIMMER SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
DISC BRAKES 9-8
DISCONNECTING THE CABLES 6-7
DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM 2-2 f
DISTRIBUTOR 2-4
INSTALLATION 2-4
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-4
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR l-25
INSPECTION l-25
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-25
DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM 2-5
DO'S l-4
DON'TS l-6
DOORGLASSANDREGULATOR lo-10
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOOR HANDLE/LATCHASSEMBLY IO-IO
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOORLOCKCYLINDER IO-IO
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOOR PANELS IO-7
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-7
DOORS IO-2
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-2
DRlVEAXLE(AWD GALANTONLY) l-10
DRIVELINE 7-14
DRIVEN DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE 7-7
DRIVESHAFTAND U-JOINTS 7-14
DRIVESHAFT BALANCING 7-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-14
U-JOINTREPLACEMENT 7-14
DRUM BRAKES 9-15
ELECTRIC WINDOW MOTOR IO-IO
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-IO
ELECTRICALCOMPONENTS 6-2
CONNECTORS 6-4
GROUND 6-3
LOAD 6-3
POWERSOURCE 6-2
PROTECTIVE DEVICES 6-3
SWITCHES&RELAYS 6-3
WIRING & HARNESSES 6-3
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS 4-7
EMISSION CONTROLS 4-2
ENGINE BLOCK 3-65
ASSEMBLY 3-67
DISASSEMBLY 3-65